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Every problem I have had with Fuji in a mostly delightful transition from Nikon is with Flash. I am consistently making some mistake that I have not been able to decipher.

Both using only the X-t1 and one of the primes (16 or 23mm) or with a prime and the fujicam remote I get a mix of perfectly exposed and massively overexposed shots. Most recently half of my tripod-fujicam remote shots were so overexposed that I could recover little detail.

I assume I am acting as if Fuji will do a similar TTl to Nikon and thus doing it wrong.

How do I set the camera so that I can choose an F stop and let the camera decide what level of flash is needed?

Should I NOT use a range of ISO and just set the fixed ISO? Do I have to put the aperture and the ISO and Shutter dials on automatic?

On Thanksgiving I fired off a large number of shots with the remote and some were more than five stops over exposed. Did I just do something wrong on the remote?
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Well my new GAS arrived yesterday ( a piece of glossy black acrylic :) ), so a quick play tonight

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Amongst my favourite photography subjects


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i just bought a new 35mm 1.4 for my xt10, and noise is so strog compared to my 18-55!!

the thing is im not talking about the shutter noise, im talking about the motor noise when focusing...
each time you press to focus - "tak tak", "tak tak", "tak tak"

here is a youtube video from my lens.... does it sounds normal to you??


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How to set Depth of Field 2ft to Infinity on Fuji X100T?
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I have 3 X-bodies and haven't used one of the straps because...well... they are sort of lame in my opinion. So, I decided to make a quick hand strap for it. The wood extension on the bottom is also something I wiped up this weekend as sort of a prototype but I'm kind of fond of it. My fingers are slim but I have a wide hand and my pinky finger always was looking for a place to rest.



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Hi all,

I'm a newbie to the forum and the Fuji X series. My girlfriend and I recently purchased the X100T. I'm absolutely loving the camera and this forum has taught me plenty. I'd just like to say hello and I look forward to conversing with everyone here and picking your brains for knowledge.

I'm loving the monochrome pictures that this camera gives (as well as Classic Chrome of course :) )

Here is a little tumblr I just started: My Muse in Monochrome

I'd LOVE some feedback and any tips on shooting with the camera and tips on shooting monochrome.

Cheers everyone!
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No 1 favorite legacy lens for me; Nikkor 85mm f2. So small and light, dream to focus, sharp as all-get-out. I'm liking Nikon glass better on the Sony A7R. None of the legacy lenses did it for me on the Fuji - which surprised me, I expected to have much better results, but the Fuji lenses are just so damn nice! I suspect it's down to my eyesight, and that APS-C is a bit less forgiving of focus errors. The Fuji is my go to camera for my work...

Here's my housemate Bill, on the left is Fuji 56mm @ f2, and on the right is the Nikkor 85mm @ f2. It's certainly not as sharp, but you can get a feel for the look...both OOC jpgs.

My personal preference is for the image on the right - the color is truer and there's more contrast in the facial features (though, I think that's just the shadow from his hand, maybe).


Here are the eyes at 100% - you really see the extra pixels of the Sony here! But the Fuji still beats it for detail (just - this is pretty close considering they're both at f2; the Nikkor is wide open!)

Screen Shot 2015-11-25 at 8.23.20 PM.png
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So, the family decided to take a trip to the SEA Aquarium this morning. On our way out, we passed a neighbour's African grey parrot, which we missed completely until it called out 'Hello!' in an uncannily accurate voice.


And at the aquarium, found this brilliant shaft of light; B&W because the lighting was pretty weird:


And always my favourite, the sea jellies:


All photos taken with the Zeiss 32. With all the attention the XF35 ƒ/2 was getting recently, I decided to take out my Z32 just to get a sense of the focal length. I realised I don't bring it out often enough, which is a shame because the images do look special (to me). Not saying anything at all about the 35 ƒ/2, which I am sure is excellent, but as a prime lens only user, I think I really should use the 30ish mm FL more often.
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Seen in Belgrave yesterday. Nik Analog Efex.


X-T1 18-55OIS

X-T1 Tamron 135,, Pentax mount
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:) Not sure what's wrong here. There's a kind of greenish tinge to the file that's not there on my computer. I'd delete the entire post but I can't see how to do that.

View attachment 69342

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Looks like an interesting offering from Pentax. The focus ring is incredibly narrow...has anyone tried it with a K adapter?
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1. Looking down Lake Louise in the Canadian Rockies. The white blur in the middle of the picture is a snow squall up on the Victoria glacier.
2. Snowy mountain slope. The blur around the edges is not vignetting but rather elements of a snow squall.


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You never garden alone. :D
Both taken with the X-T1 and 18-55 @ 35mm. The first is cropped the second is not.


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I just bought a 50-140 lens for my X-T1. When I put the new lens on the camera it (view finder) informed me I needed to down load the latest firmware. OK. I go the the Fujifilm USA website, and after some difficulty find the firmware update section. Once I sort out the whole business about having a Mac computer it tells me to click on "Download" and save the file to my desktop. I do that. Then looking about I find…NO further instruction. I last did this over a year ago. I don't remember the procedure, largely because there were step by step instructions on the Fujifilm web site. What the heck happened to that user friendly approach?


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My mission today :: Create the ultimate selfie shrine to thyself. Behold my "six selfies in one shot" shot! Gonna print this BIG!!!!! :);)

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Went exploring around Death Valley this weekend. Here are some shots on an XP1 using the Rokinon 12mm

Bad water Basin


Mesquite sand dunes at night

(that's the moon)

Mesquite sand dunes at sunrise

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I have started using my flash xf-42 and I hope someone can help me with a couple of things. I don't really understand how it works with live view. When I am looking through the camera, should I just meter as I usually do and try to get the best exposure then just shoot? If I do this, I have to raise my ISO very high. If I don't do this, then I can see my subject. I know it's a very beginner question, but hopefully someone has the patience to help me. :)
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