FUJIFILM FUJINON XF 27 mm f/2.8 Pancake Lens
If anyone was thinking about putting a pancake on their bodies... Only misleading bit is that the page mentions the £75 cashback - the 27mm is NOT part of the cashback offer. Would have been ridiculous walking away with the lens for 112 quid!
I continue to enjoy my new 14mm lens. Now trying out different edit plugins. Have been playing with Silver Fx Pro 2 after reading about it in posts on this site. Here is one I like and share for comments. Today my 14 day trial expired... so I guess I will have to buy the Nik collection ....
Earlier this month I posted that I sent my X-T1 body, carefully packed in an Express Post bag (for next day delivery to Fujifilm Australia - the connector door was buckled & needed replacing) at my local Australia Post office.
I spoke to the Fuji service folks & they hadn't yet received the X-T1 - 5 days after posting. Express Post tacking showed that the parcel appeared to be going back & forth to a number of parcel handling depots.
Australia Post were polite and explained that from what they could 'see' there appeared to be an address issue - for some unknown reason, the automated readers couldn't read it properly. Further, when this happens, the robots make a number of attempts and then send the package to another facility to see if they can read it. The other facility then repeats the process and if it can't read the address it flicks the package back and so on.
The Australia Post helpdesk person explained that these facilities are totally automated and there are humans that she can call to intervene. Eventually, the robots will tire of their ping pong game and send the parcel back to the sender - assuming thy can read that address. She launched an investigation.
Long story, short, the parcel was found & delivered to Fujifilm. From arrival at Fujifilm to the date it returned to me, 10 days elapsed. Not too bad after all - 17 days from me posting to return to me. I can live with that.
May you all be at least as fortunate.
Recently picked up a very clean - and little used - Nikon D700. It's one big and heavy hunk'o'junk but will be a nice old thing to use alongside my Fuji kit. Anyway, a few shots off the first few rolls as it were...
Lincoln Cathedral Guided Tour
Lincoln Cathedral Nave
Castle Hill & Cathedral
Fuji by Nikon via Sigma Art
Pair of Floggers
Make My Day
All shots taken using either Nikkor AF-S 50-f1.8G or Sigma 24-105 Art.
Found this in my online wanders and found it really interesting...
Rust courtesy of the Pacific Ocean & Oregon rain.
I am experimenting with a variety of films in order to settle on some favorites. To my surprise I am finding the cheap and easy to find Fujifilm Superia 400 is one of my favorites. This was shot with my Minolta X-370, processed at a lab and then I scanned it myself and processed it with ColorPerfect in Photoshop and then LR. I am really enjoying working with film, and I fully expect that discoveries made messing around with analog gear and films will inspire some new avenues in shooting and post-processing my Fuji-X files as well. Shooting film is certainly increasing my appreciation for the film-simulation modes and working with Jpegs.
Thought I'd add some photos for the Lensmate X-T10 thumb grip. I do think it helps with handling. Not 100% perfect for my grip style, but still an improvement over not using a thumb grip. I've now tried a cheap 3rd party aluminum grip from eBay, and that one was unusable (not fitting the hot shoe properly resulting in some wobble and torque, rotating the thumb grip a bit out of the hot shoe. Plus too short).
Here's what the Lensmate grip is like--sorry for the poor photos, I was literally photographing with a heavy camera with my left hand while holding the X-T10 in my right hand!
Craftsmanship is impeccable, nice even finish. The color is quite close to the original X-T10 silver though with a tinge of warmth (only noticeable upon close comparison). The grip is very lightweight. I'm using an $11 PU "leather" case I got from Aliexpress (same listed on eBay), and the two together provide greatly enhanced grip.
One of the things I love about using my Nikon D7100 is the Auto Focus. It's fast and accurate most of the time. On my beloved Fuji XE-2 I have been spot focusing with the little green square and sometimes moving it off to one side to the subject as well. Has anyone been using the Auto Focus and just letting the camera decide?? I would love to here peoples thoughts on this. I shoot lots of fishing scenes on rivers and like the speed of the Auto Focus and am really keen to see what the XE-2 Firmware in January adds to all this.
My wife and I are expingn our first child this spring - a baby girl! I've slowly been building confidence and I experience in my photography skills and getting comfortable with my current gear;
X-E2, 35mm 1.4, 18-55mm 2.8-4, and 60mm 2.4 as well as some adapted Konixa glass 57mm 1.4 and 100mm 2.8
... My question is, is there a lens I'm necessarily missing that will be valuable to capture precious moments in my child's first few months and years.
I find the autofocus and lack of wider FOV somewhat limiting especially thinking of taking pictures indoors and of fast moving subjects - maybe is just th GAS.
I should add that I do quite enjoy the 40mm FOV (as all my photos from a child were captured with my fathers 40mm Konica which is damaged beyond repair) as well as portrait photography.
Both cameras are set with High Performance and the latest firmware.
There is a noticeable, and fairly significant, delay when pressing certain buttons and the time that it takes for the XT-10 to proceed with the given command when compared to the XT-1.
Contrarily, the XT-1 is quite snappy when activating such buttons as the Q, DISP BACK, and MENU buttons.
Anyone else notice this?
Is this caused, perhaps, by a faster processor in the X-T1?
I have had the 18-55 which came bundled with my X-T1, for about 18 months. Like many others I have been very impressed with that lens. However, I really wanted a constant f/2.8 lens, particularly for the event photography that I do. So after reading the reviews and many glowing testimonials of the 16-55mm, some of which compare the image quality with that of primes, I decided to get that lens.
After a few weeks use, I thought the image quality of the 16-55mm was good, but not incredible. So I decided to do a comparison with my 18-55mm. I set up the camera on a tripod with a shutter delay and took many boring photos of a brick wall at various focal lengths and apertures with both lenses. Here are two sample images which were typical of the results. They are 100% crops at the centre of the image with no processing in LR6, other than cropping. Can you tell which is which?
The first one is the 18-55, and to my eye, there is very little difference in sharpness between the two. Considering the price and weight of the 16-55, I find this very disappointing. I also compared the 16-55 with my 23mm, 27mm and my 56mm, and the primes were really in another league. No comparison. If I really needed the best quality image I could create, I could not use the 16-55. I also have the 50-140 and I would say that that lens, unlike the 16-55, does actually approach the sharpness of primes.
A bad copy of the lens perhaps? Or it this as good as it is?
I am receipt of the second brand new 90mm lens from Amazon with visible dust in the elements. The first lens that I received yesterday had a huge speck of dust. It was promptly re-packaged and put back on the big brown truck. Amazon quickly sent another out and I received it this afternoon - another speck of dust. A bad production run? Am I expecting too much to not have dust visible in a brand new lens? I wanted to check myself before I send another one back, I have never experienced this with any of my Canon lenses.
With all of the ruckus regarding the 35/2 lens correction issue, people posting images (very nice images in IMHO) from their new lenses and others evaluating these images, I would like to discuss the different types of lens distortions.
Distortions You Can't Control
Both of these can have second order effects. The curvature is more complex. There are multiple shapes to the curvature..
- barrel distortion - straight lines are curved outward
- pincushion distortion - straight lines are curved inward
Barrel/pincushion distortion is simple to model and correction parameters to minimize the curvature(s) minimize are common. As discussed elsewhere there are trade-offs to software distortion correction.
A third kind of distortion has to to with the elongation of objects as the are moved from the center of the frame to the edge. Square objects appear rectangular and spherical objects resemble ovals. This positional distortion is obvious with nearby objects viewed using wide angle lenses. In my experience this distortion is also a function of the subject distance, but I can not find any rigorous descriptions. However the following quote from Roger Hicks is useful.
- anamorphic distortion
"True wide-angle distortion describes the way in which three-dimensional objects near the edges of the field of view appear ‘stretched’ out of shape because of the angle of view of the lens: a round ball is distorted into an ellipse, and a human head can look quite unpleasant. It is not so much a defect as an inherent property of extreme wide-angle lenses: it cannot be ‘designed out’ and has been used to powerful creative effect..."
DxO (and probably other platforms) offer anamorphic distortion correction tools.
Distortions You Can Control
Perspective distortion is a misnomer. The effects are not due to deficient optical designs. They are not distortions. A common example is the compression effect of telephoto lenses. Because you can stand far away from the subjects, the distance between them appears to be shorter than it actually is. The opposite happens with wide-angle lenses. You can stand closer to the subject and so the distance between objects appears longer than it actually is. However perspective distortion is not a function of focal length. It depends on a single factor - the distance between the lens and the subjects.
- Perspective distortion
Keystone distortion is also a misnomer. It is a subset of perspective distortion. Keystone distortion is also described as converging verticals. Parallel lines in the scene become non-parallel in the photograph. Converging verticals only occur when the camera is not level to the scene. Tilting the camera vertically will eliminate converging verticals. Often it is impossible to frame the entire subject (a tall building) without tilting the camera. Tilt-shift lenses shift the image to cancel the converging verticals. More commonly this tilt is corrected during post-production. Software correction of converging verticals is routine. The correction process is simplified when no horizontal tilt present. However software correction does crop the image.
- Keystone Distortion
Keystone distortion is not barrel distortion.
Did some maternity/anniversary photos where my daughter got married. I used both Canon 5Dmk3 and XE2 (and generally preferred the 5Dmk3 as it had less focusing errors). Took one image to try out Topaz Impression (Topaz Impression).
So here's the original and I just masked back the couple for the final version and cleaned it up a bit.
I'd say it's worth playing around for some images. Particularly good if you want a Painterly look, but can't get your head around Painter.
XE2, firstname.lastname@example.org, 1/500th sec, iso 2500, handheld.
I want to try some UV photography.
Either under sunlight or with a UV torch/light. I have a UV torch that emits at 380nm, I can get a lightsource of 320nm if required.
I have a Nikon D70S that is a spare camera for my underwater setup but which is also good for UV photography according to this article.
Photography of the Invisible World: A simple tutorial for reflected UV photography II
I know of Klaus but I dont know him personally to send a blind email asking this question (below).
So which filter should I buy to use on the front of my lens which is a Schneider Componon S 135mm f5.6 enlarging lens that is suitable for UV use. The lens will be mounted on a Nikon PB5 bellows for focussing, and will have the Nikon AF-1 filter holder for holding the purchased filter.
Which of these filters is 'best' for UV photography?
Sky's the Limit 2" Venus U Premium High Transmission filter with data
B+W UV Durchlass Schwarzfilter 403 62mm 62 NEUWARE
Does anyone know or able to give advice?
Thanks in advance.