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Shooting JPEGs in Fuji b&w mode, will I still have to use Photoshop's color RGB removal tool before printing,?
Local outdoor weekend Koala market, never know what you will find, often on a tarp on the ground. It's never anything more interesting than box brownies usually, but it is still nice to browse the stalls in hope.

[​IMG]market assortment
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Hello All

I'm looking to catch the adapted lens bug. I've been exposed to this 'virus' for a while with a really cheep Nikon adaptor + Nikkor D 70-210/f4-5.6 and a Leica-R adaptor (Pixco) and my Elmar-R 180/f4.

Neither of these two adapted lenses have set my imaging world alight. They were lying around when I picked up my refurbished X-Pro 1 body before I had any FX mount optics so just used to get me started.

To be fair the focal lengths weren't best suited for my Landscape/Street/Portrait style but I'd like to dig deeper with the right combinations. I'd be working on a small budget but am interested in the results members are posting with the likes of the Helios 44 and and Rokkor lenses. The Pentax Takumar range seems pretty popular too but not some many opting for the later SMC Pentax lenses??

So the question is...
What reasonably priced Lens and adapter combination would you recommend in the 40-60mm range? I'd be looking for Character of image over technical precision in the lens but want an adapter thats a good physical fit (my first two are far from perfect).

If I have to invest in a high grade adapter, I'll need to stick with that mounting for other lenses I purchase in the near future, so this may effect my initial choice.

Thanks in advance
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Spend the last two weeks on holiday at the Costa Brave, in the small village of Sa Tuna. Besides swimming in the sea and lying on the beach (which I did surprisingly little), I spent most of the time hiking, and even found it in me to get up a little early for some sunrises over de mediterranean. Despite the determined mosquito attacks, I did manage to get some images I like. Hope you like 'm too! Any advice or comments appreciated.

The first and third image are done with the Samyang 12 mm, at something like f/11. The middle one is made using the 16-55 f/2.8 at f/8.0, all on the XT-1.



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It was our grandsons 2nd birthday last week so we all went to the wildlife park so he could see the animals, we had a great time despite the rain that came and went.

He walked (ran) about 4 miles in his enthusiasm to see everything and showed a great deal of interest in the animals that are so well looked after, thriving and have good enclosures.

Used the XPro2 + 100-400 and for some the X70.

WP 5.jpg WP 6.jpg WP 21.jpg WP 24.jpg WP 25.jpg
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hi people of the internet,

My I brought my trustee x-t1 to the beach and i got few splash of sea water and I don't think it was really that bad. I've experienced worst conditions with rain. It got hot.

My power switch is stuck and and need a lot of force to switch it on. My shutter curtain is also jammed. When i put on the battery, the screen flickers and shutter firing rapidly. Evf doesn't work anymore.

Btw, i was using the 35mm wr lens, which should have been protected from the water.

I'm sad, this is my main body :(
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Photos with the X-T1, 100-400 mm lens.

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You can use your Fuji X-series camera for medium format photography right now if you use it to "scan" images shot with medium format cameras on film. The image below was shot with 120 Kodak Portra 160 on a medium format rangefinder camera, then "scanned" with my X-E2.

RF645 Merry-G-Round P160.jpg
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Del Mar California
X100T SOOC BW+Y, Highlights +1, EV -2/3, then set white and black points in Picasa. I like creative restraints!
Starting to get the look from this new camera that I Like.
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Looking for recommendations for what would be the smallest decent camera bag that can hold a standard size iPad Air?
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So I finally had my birthday presented delivered earlier this week. A Rokinon 85mm f/1.4 in x-mount.

here are my first impressions and some candid shots at a local farmer's market:

- build quality is better than i expected (metal barrel)
- easier to focus than focus by wire FX lenses ... it is perfectly damped
- contrary to some reviews I had read online, there is absolutely no play other than the typical clockwise play on the rest of my lenses (I have a small X-E2 body)
- image quality is very sharp
- i love the way the plastic hood snaps on an off. much more reassuring than Fuji's

- noticing some CA and not sure how best to fix them easily, or if a lens profile exists on the web
- lens filter mount seems to be plastic

Photos are SOOC jpegs, in Pro-Neg Std shot 1.4-2.8

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XP-1 converted 820, 35/1.4. LR and Nik 015-Edit.jpg
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I have know this structure for a while and have wanted to photograph it, I have no idea of it's function. Anyway, driving past it this evening, there was a nice sunset, I just happened to have my 90mm Summicron attached to the X-Pro2, and here is the result.

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I want to make a speeded-up version of a drawing being created, but the 1 frame/sec interval (stills) option is way too fast and there is no choice slower than 24 fps in the movie options. And the project doesn't justify sourcing a accessory intervalometer.
I'm thinking the 3 fps "low" burst rate might be about right. I will be shooting normal jpg only and can use electronic shutter, which I think would be easier on the camera. I can combine it in Photoshop.
Does anyone have experience or opinion on whether running burst mode for 5 or 10 minutes (assuming no buffer problem) would harm my X-E2? Thank you.
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Saw this little gem on eBay last two weeks or so, and thought I'd bite the bullet. I'm rather glad I did! Just posting some example images in case someone else is currently deciding whether or not they should get the lens. All SOOC with no tweaking, though I have used Velvia simulation to push the contrast a wee bit.

Won't be the sharpest lens wide open, but at 2.8 and above, I'm pleasantly surprised at its performance. Haven't been using my Helios 44-2 since getting this one. ;)

At f1.4

At f2.8
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Hi there, its my birthday next week and I have dropped heavy hints about the XT1 I want to update from my old Olympus 4/3rd camera. In anticipation of this i now own:

2 spare batteries for XT1
Extended eye cup
Nice new fast SD card
Fujinon 56mm lens f1.2
62mm ND filter
Pfirstingers 111 tipsfor XT1

Hope that camera arrives on Thursday!

Anyway - pleased to be here on the forum
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Hi all,

I know there are loads of adaptors for the ex-2 but I want advice on the best one for m42 lenses as love the quirks and affordability of these old lenses.

Would be nice also to hear from people who use m42 screw fit lenses with the camera and the results they get please.

Would prefer not to spend a fortune.

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Raynox DCR5320 Pro



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Couldn't not take a photo of this little one. (X-T1 and 50-140)

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Help! I'm having a problem with my shutter appearing to freeze and the camera saying ' turn off and try again'- this does not rectify problem and it keeps freezing intermittently. I used a Remote shutter control and had camera shutter speed set to T last night and it is since doing that I have had trouble. I have reset whole camera to factory settings but problem continues. Have I broken the camera or is there something I could try before returning to the camera shop? Thanks. Ita
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It will only focus with lens set at 112mm and only if object is within aprox.7 feet
anyone know the fix.?
Thanks in advance
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Help in selection please:
I have the X-E2 and very happy but:
1) Went jungle trekking in Uganda and will again. The camera was not happy with the humidity. i.e., want a 2nd camera with weather proofing. (camera would lock up and have to be turned on and off several times)
2) Shot lots of video, some great and some very very slow focus. Would like better focus controls on video.
3) I love having the flash on board.

Using 18-55 stock lens and the awesome 50-140 2.8

So two questions:
a) Looking to improve #1 and #2, I think this is impossible if I also want to keep #3?
b) If I accept no on board flash, do I need to jump all the way to the X-T2 for improved focus on movies? Not so professional that I need 4k.

Thanks for any help and direction on this.
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So it seems a number of folks seem to think THE alternative for running Contax CY glass is to hang it on a Sony A7 of some variety for the FF IBIS experience (rather than Fuji). I'm wondering whether any have given thought to the Pentax K-1 as well... and if not, why not. Is it a sticking with mirrorless vs. a DSLR thing, or what? I the ex-Sony crowd seems to be vocal about Sony not really understanding photographers... or don't like the "service". Sure there's no holy grail, but in terms of service, I give Sony huge credit for transfering all my 8mm video to DVD in there Houston service bureau. Not speedy, yes, but that's commitment. I've had Pentax and they're fine. I left their DSLR's for Fuji mirrorless, and like mirrorless, but the Sony user base seems ...far less enthusiastic than our Fuji group.
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For a while I have been toying with the idea of selling my 35mm f1.4 in favor of getting the X100-TCL. The only reason I got the 35mm was for the ~50mm focal length. I do not really need the wider aperture of the F1.4 and thought the TCL lens on my X100S would provide the 50mm that I want. One of the reasons I am looking at the TCL is because of the ND filter that is part of the X100S giving me the ability to shoot wide open on bright days. I would probably keep the X-E1 for a while paired with my Nikkor 85mm f1.8 for my granddaughters' volleyball games.

Anyone have any thoughts, positive or negative, for this approach? I am a retired news shooter and looking to keep my kit as small as possible. The reason I went with the Fuji over my Nikons was weight. No longer needed 8fps or extreme wide or tele lenses. Just looking to try and see the world the way Cartier-Bresson did - as the viewer of ordinary happenings.
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... which is in Holland :).

I'm just a hobby photographer, but I do love making photos! I went quite naturally from analogue SLR to digital SLR (Canon), but when the mirrorless cameras appeared I decided to change. After a lot of research I traded all my SLR equipment for an X-T10 with the 18-55 and the 70-200.

I've had it for almost a year, and it still overwhelms me! There are so many choices to make before pressing the shutterbutton, that occasionally I forget the most basic settings - shooting playing dogs without switching to continuous AF, for instance. Frustrating and fascinating!

I've already started trawling through this lovely forum and started making cheatsheets, so hopefully I'll get this camera under control one of these days.

Shot the dog yesterday with continuous AF ;)

[​IMG][/IMG] vers.jpg
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Trying out my 35+ year old Tamron Adaptall 2 f2.5 lens with K+F adapter. X-T1 and Classic Chrome. f4

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I've got the Adobe subscription to LR and PS. I've used PS for 10+ years and LR for about 3 or 4. Pretty comfortable with both and they work great with my Nikon. When I got the Fuji X E-1 I tried Capture One and thought it gave better RAW conversions than LR. Still prefer it. I recently got Iridient and that, combined with LR, seems to be the best choice. I do the basic RAW conversion in Iridient, usually just changing the default sharpening to R-L Deconvolution, occasionally doing highlight and shadow adjustment and save the result as a TIFF. Any further work is done in LR or PS. The only downside to this is the large files. TIFFs from the X E-1 are 96MB. Since I have an X T-2 on order those will be even bigger. I'm thinking of giving up my subscription to Capture One, as it's $150/year. But before I do, I'd like to make sure that I'm seeing the best that it's capable of doing to compare with Iridient. Can anyone suggest optimal sharpening for Fuji RAFs? Also, if there is any Fuji-specific training. Any additional comments are also welcome. As with some other posts, money is not the primary concern, but Capture One would have to be clearly superior for me to justify paying a double yearly subscription. I have purchased Iridient, but don't know how often it is upgraded and at when cost If anyone knows this history, that would also be a valuable piece of information. I paid $99.00 for the original license. Sorry for the long post, but I've spent lots of time already figuring out the glitches in Cap. One and comparing results.
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Can I use a piece of male threaded pipe to restore the threads? If so, what dimensions?
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This is not meant to be a scientifically made measurement, however Theoria Apophasis has just posted a Youtube video about the latest firmware for the XT2, which he reckons feels to have faster AF than the Nikon D500! Way to go!
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It just arrived today and I'm quite amazed. It's sharp even with the 1.4 converter. I shouldn't be surprised but I'm a bit skeptical on Fuji reviews. I do wonder how it is with the 2.0 converter.
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Another of the series. This one from Silver Efex. The previous one of the steam engine was processed in Lightroom.

Threshing not Thrashing.jpg
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Been tough getting over 'street lag' after my trip to Israel. More here.

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Is anybody else getting this from time to time. I have been having issues accessing the site on various occasions in the past few days. I checked on several systems and two different broadband connections and my cell phone and they all seem to have the same issue.
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Hi all -

The better half volunteered me as a photographer for a charity event tonight. Should be fun - I know a fair amount of the people in the organization.

It'll be a casual affair so I'm not feeling pressure. :)

Was thinking 35mm for faces and perhaps the 16mm for groups. Will toss the 56mm in the bag just in case.

There will be a presentation of a trophy for a golf tournament earlier in the day.

I would probably bring the X-P2 and X-T10 and + Nissin i40.

Anyone think that is overkill? Should I just use the 18-55 with flash and leave it at that?

Any and all tips/tricks appreciated!

Thanks in advance, all.
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I just picked one of these up, checked it out and then prepared to sell it as it was too close to both the 56mm f1.2 and the Zeiss 50mm macro that I own. However, after playing around a little bit, I think I'll keep it.
The six shots in the next reply are, in order, f1.6-f2-f2.8-f4-f5.6-f8.
I think F1.6 is somewhere I won't often go. The range between f2 and f4 looks promising and when you get to F8 it looks pretty sharp. Plus it has 1:2 macro.
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