I am in the enthusiast market so I’m sure someone who is a better photographer than I could have taken some better photos. But for myself I am very happy with the lens. The build quality is very solid and for the weight balances quite nicely with my XT1. The build quality on the 1.4x is great and the size and weight of it is not noticeable against the big lens.
I had the opportunity to try out the 100-400mm this past weekend in southern Missouri. The weather was overcast and incredibly windy so I appreciated the image stabilization to get some okay shots of the bald eagles wintering there. The shots are not incredibly sharp of the eagles due to some camera shake. I also did miss the extra stop of light when I added the 1.4x teleconvertor but the reach made up for it. However I was personally happy with the images I got. I'm sure using a tripod would make the images much sharper.
560mm f8 ISO 200 1/450
Don't know if it is of interst to someone, but the Fujifilm Gallery Store in Funan Digital Mall in Singapore already has an X-pro2 to play with.
I spent about an hour today at their place and played around with the camera.
I liked it's overall speed, PiP focus assist/confirmation, focusing speed, solid feel and the optical viewfinder in general.
I did not like the eyepoint of the viewfinder as it was not possible to see the whole viewfinder with my glasses, it also felt quite heavy.
I tried the camera with the 23mm f1.4 and the 35mm f2 lenses. Both lenses give the same viewfinder experience due to the optional lens in the viewfinder. EVF felt just like my X-E2.
I own an EOS 5DII (850g) and an X-E2 (350g). The X-pro2 at 495g feels more like my 5DII, the lightness of the X-E2 is gone, even if it's closer in weight to the X-E2 than to the Canon.
So, if you pass through Singapore during the next few weeks, as I did today on my way home, and you are interested in the X-pro2, go and have a look. The guys in the shop were very friendly.
Oh my, I seem to develop some GAS. Go home, see the doctor, maybe he has some pills... .
Hi, I've bought my Fuji kit after a long time shooting with SLR Canon gear, low weight and optical quality were the reasons for the move, hoping to enjoy here a lot.
Anyone else see this posting?
The main gist of it says, "You should always turn off image stabilization on your lens before you travel so as to lock floating lens elements in place and minimize the chances of them being jostled and damaged en-route.”
Near the end of the article Thom mentions that Lens Rentals tested a bunch of lenses by gently shaking them. I figure I'd try with my two zooms. Well the 55-200mm definitely has a rattle. While the 18-55 has a subtle movement.
Anyone else care to test there lenses?
Tonight I attended the announcement night for the new 100MPx Phase 1 camera. Phase 1 is using Australian photographer, Alexia Sinclair as one of the promotional photographers. She attended the evening in person and I took my X-T1 along for the night.
They had some still life to photograph and then out came a model with a snake! The Phase 1 cams were firing using huge studio flash units and were set to f22 and indeed produced amazing results. Camera with lens and 100MPxl back a mere Au$61k. Meanwhile I was taking my photos on an X-T1 using ambient light.
Click the link to see my photos, if interested.
Link: RemekTek Media
I have a Fuji X-T1 and a Canon 5D MkIII. I have a HiTech 100x100mm filter holder and HiTech 3-stop ND solid and Grad filters. I have been using with the Canon with no problem. But when used with the Fuji I get a definite magenta color cast. From research I believe this is attributable to the absence of any IR filter in the Fuji, and also that the HiTech filters do not filter the IR.
Is this a correct understanding?
I have become aware of the Nisi filters.
I note on the Nisi website product description of the Nisi 100x100mm Nano IR Neutral Density filter... that "do not affect the coloration of the image" .
Would it be safe to assume that using these Nisi filters in combination with the Fuji X-T1, one would not get a color cast. Has anyone had experience with these Nisi filters?
Tasmania is my home. Once know as Van Diemans Land, it is an island of contrasts. Wild and rugged mountains, lush pasture, untrodden beaches. Some of the best wines, best food, best air and best water on the planet. Don't come here and steal all my light
Diamond Island I by Nigel Cross, on Flickr
Did anyone find the measurements for the nodal points on the current lens lineup?
All I could find online was this:
Any help would be appreciated, as it seams a lot of work.
Hi all, I wondered if there is anyone with knowledge on the durability of the finish on the XT-10. I know the XT-1 Silver edition has a (supposedly) stronger finish. My black XT-1 seems to have a softer black finish you need to be careful with. How is this with the black and silver XT-10. Would it matter what color I would get?
More than 50% of them take place within 5 miles of my home.
Come to think of it - these are less than 1 mile from the casita. It's so easy to always have an X camera while out walking the dog.
Luckily Lake Washington is nearby. X-T1 50-230 I love the compact light nature of this lens. On a sunny day - it's hard to beat.
Untitled by j c, on Flickr
Untitled by j c, on Flickr
X-T1 w/ 18-55 kit lens
Untitled by j c, on Flickr
X-T10 35 1.4
Untitled by j c, on Flickr
Untitled by j c, on Flickr
All jpegs. No fancy software. Straight to iPhone or iPad - a little bit of Snapseed and done.
recently just got myself a fuji x100t in silver color,
have been trying to look for a 49mm clear filter to protect the lens. but it seems to me B+W and Hoya doesnt produce filters in silver color anymore???
I remember B+W use to have filters in silver but it was discont??
Spent the day in Monterey, CA yesterday with my X-T1 and my trusty XF 10-24 and XF 50-140.
I just subscribed to LR/PS CC 2015,
I have a complete set of the Topaz Plugins, but, I don't know where to put them so I can use them.
In PS CC14, I copied them in a "Plugin" folder, but in PS CC15, the folder structure is labeled differently..
Any help is welcome...
I use a Windows 10 Computer, if that helps.
If you haven't noticed -or don't really care- the dollar has been weakening against the yen of late. Am hoping that it doesn't revert back to its 2012 levels (mid to upper 70s) but it was bound to level off some. Not sure where this is headed, but the yen is definitely a safer bet at the moment ...
A recent thread on another forum got me thinking about the way people use their cameras. Are you the type of shooter who frequently dives into the menus while you're shooting, or are you the kind of person, like me, who rarely ever sees the menus again once your camera is set up? If you are making frequent menu changes in the middle of shooting, what kind of changes are you making?
There is a lot of talk about IBIS in the threads. Recently AKASHI UENO has released the fate of IBIS in regards to the XF mount in an interview here.
“Our highest priority is always image quality”. Interview with Takashi Ueno and Shusuke Kozaki from Fujifilm Japan.
TOMASH: Are you looking into IBIS (in-body-image-stabilization) on future Fujifilm cameras? If not, why?
TAKASHI UENO: First of all, our XF mount is not compatible with IBIS. You may be thinking that our mount size is similar to competitors’ and why Fujifilm cannot do it. The answer is simple: for the sake of image quality. IBIS has both advantages and disadvantages. IBIS moves the sensor in the mount to stabilize the image. To secure the amount of light at any position, the diameter of mount must cover the wider image circle considering the margin of sensor movement. The diameter of our mount was designed for the image circle without IBIS. It means the amount of light at the corners is reduced when the sensor is shifted. We could correct it digitally, but we don’t want to do it: we don’t want to compromise our image quality.
TOMASH: Why didn’t you design a mount in a size, which would allow implementing the IBIS?
TAKASHI UENO: To cover the larger image circle, not only mount size (and body size), but also lens size must be bigger. We are pursuing the best balance of image quality, size and weight of both cameras and lenses, operability and performance. When we were deciding on the design of our mount, we decided to provide the best quality body and lens in comfortable small package as the best balance. And we don’t think this direction will be changed in the future. Our highest priority is always image quality. We hope you agree!
I'm seeing 2 versions of Fuji X-mount 23mm f/1.4 lenses popping up for sale here and there.
One is the current version the Fujinon Aspherical Lens Super EBC XF 23mm f/1.4 R it takes 62mm filters.
The other is a Fujinon Aspherical Lens Super EBC 23mm f/1.4. The front of the lens does not have an XF (though the box is marked XF). It takes 52mm filters. I'm thinking, but I don't know for sure, that this one is from the original X-Pro1 kit.
My x100s focuses great in low light when the AF assist light fires but sometimes it just doesn't fire unless it is really dark...
It would be nice if the AF assist light would come on when it is a bit lighter too...
Does anyone know a way to force the AF assist light to come on when focusing? Or maybe trick the camera into using it???
A few more photos from the obscure classic, Leaning Tree (WI3 220m), in Wyoming.
A super steep approach gully finally leads into the beautiful Clark Canyon. Care must be taken on the ice bridges and shelves: the water is deep, fast, and cold. 12mm Touit
The first pitch of Leaning Tree. Only about a quarter of the climb is visible from this angle. 12mm Touit
Starting out the third ropelength. The 8mm is great for capturing the action while still being able to share the anchor with everybody. Samyang 8mm
The final, super fun, chimney pitch. I snapped this quickly during my lead. I think that I would have preferred to have set hyperfocus on the lens before I started climbing. It's too hard to adjust one-handed while in an awkward positon.
Heading toward the series of bridges that lead to a way out of the canyon. I'm glad they stayed intact during the warm afternoon. 18-55mm at 18mm (I think)
Hi hopefully someone can help me, i have owned an x100s from new for a year now, finally discovered a timed mode next to the bulb mode by reading some internet blogs.
Problem is with mine when i go down through the shutter speeds it goes, 16,8,4 and then 2 instead of T??
Bulb mode appears to be ok, but in T mode when i move the control dial all it does is adjusting the aperture increments NOT the timed exposure which it should be.
Not sure if its something i am doing wrong or mine is missing this function?
Out and about today around the northern part of Norfolk, via fakenham, cromer and the coastal road back to hunstanton. I dont usually do landscapes, i dont have the patience to wait for mother nature to create magical light, but today was the exception, and mother nature was awesome!
Fuji 35/2 R WR
I just got the new firmware for the x-e2 which gave the camera an electronic shutter option. If you are shooting on a tripod and your subject is a still life or landscape with no subject movement would it be better to use the electronic shutter rather than the mechanical shutter? My thoughts are that it would eliminate any kind of shutter vibration during the exposure. I used to use live view in my Canon days when shooting these types of subjects. I don't see anyway that it could hurt.
I'm hoping someone on the Forum can point me to a resource for calculating an hourly rate that takes into account taxes. I'm working on idea for some part-time work and don't want to overprice myself and scare away potential clients. But I don't want to undercharge and be left with very little after taxes. Thanks in advance for any tips.
We are seeing more and more options coming to the fuji in camera JPEG engine (especially since the Xpro-2):
- more film simulations (Classic Chrome, Acros)
- more fine controls (extension of the settings from -2/+2 to -4/+4 for some filters)
- totally new filter: grain control
In that trend, I would personally love see a new filter bring some more control in regards to what is often called local or micro contrast (or Clarity filter in Lightroom or ACR). That filter is often pivotal in making my image "pop", especially when doing B&W.
Additionally, having a tint filter when doing B&W could also be nice, I like adding the slightest hint of orange/yellow in my B&W conversion to warm up the photo. That might be a tiny be complicated to implement in camera though as it usually requires really fine tuning, but one can dream