My X-E1 had worked fine until I tried out the custom settings. After that, its operation is somewhat unpredictable. Like the settings changing unexpectedly (e.g. AUTO ISO changing to 200). Also the Q button just does not work properly. When I push the button, the options show up, but when I select any one of them, it just goes back to the image display.
I tried a reset, but that had no effect. Hope someone here can offer a suggestion.
Thanks in advance,
Havent thought through any details but thought this might be a fun and interesting project.
I first noticed my i40 not behaving itself on Christmas, using the strobe on my X100s set to TTL, would work properly, then suddenly it would flash, but with not near enough power, yielding way underexposed photos. Last evening using it on my X-T10 at an awards banquet it worked fine for a bit then start giving the same underexposed results. I both cases the ambient light didn't change, the batteries where fairly fresh and the ready light was green. Fortunately I had a Yongnuo set up to give some off camera light for the awards presentations. Not sure what is going on with it, I have cleaned the contacts on both cameras.
I used to own the Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 VR lens, sold it last year after I acquired the Fuji X-E2/1 pair, still hanging on to the Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8. In any case, my current thought is no matter how enticing it is, I will not fall into the trap of buying another big and heavy zoom. I have a Olympus Zuiko 75-150mm f/4 that I got with a OM-1 I bought a few years back, that is really small. The one I have, however, produces really low contrast images, I am disappointed. This past December, I happened to find this Tamron on eBay for $18 and got it. It has an Adaptall mount for OM, and I already had the OM-to-FX adapter.
I was playing around with this lens yesterday, as well as trying some JPEG settings on the camera. Took this picture with the X-E1, handheld. I believe the aperture was at f/8, but I forgot to note the focal length. This is SOOC JPEG, settings were Auto ISO 6400, manual shutter at 1/500th, Auto WB, Velvia, DR100, NR -2, HL-Tone -1, SH-Tone 0, Color +1, Sharpness +1. It was quite difficult to focus, though, on the X-E1. I am finding that the contrast change on long-throw manual lenses is gradual enough that it is hard to detect the "peak", especially in flat and "lowish" light. Then again, I am pleased with the edge of the petal closest to the camera, which is where I focused.
Walhalla is a former gold mining town about 200 km east of Melbourne. It is located in a very steep valley and the local cemetery is on a hill overlooking the site of the township. Rumour has it that the hillside is so steep that many were buried vertically (Standing up in other words). From looking at the graves I suspect there is an element of urban myth in that but maybe there were some instances of it happening.
If you look carefully at the photo just right of centre you can see the roadway below.
Normally I shoot roller derby with a Nikon D750 and the 70-200 f2.8 VRII but due to the recent 4.0 firmware update decided to give the X-E2 a try. Turns out that it is more than possible to use the X-E2 to shoot roller derby with the recent firmware update. It is not as effortless as the Nikon D750 in shooting action but results can be gotten with the Fuji. Was more hit and miss for focusing than with the Nikon kit but ended up with images that I could work with. With the Nikon kit almost all come out in focus and will only get rejected due to content of the image. With the Fuji there were more out of focus shots but it was workable. Shot primarily with the 90mm f2.0 and a couple of shots were done with the 16mm f1.4. Also used a remotely triggered Godox AD360 mounted on a 12' light stand. Did shoot with ambient light and also with the remote light. Tried to use the 56mm 1.2 but found that the lens is just not fast enough for focusing even with the 4.0 firmware, at least for action. Shooting roller derby is quite tough on any camera to shoot due to the light levels and the X-E2 did quite well all things considered. Ended up with pretty decent results compared to what I would normally get. Here are a couple of shots, one with strobe and one with ambient light. And the links are to the full Flickr galleries for both bouts.
Smoke City Betties vs Chicks Ahoy!
Death Track Dolls vs Gore-Gore Roller Girls
Valentine's Day themed shoot with my son.
2 light setup. 1 bare speedlite behind and camera left @ 1/128th power. Streaklight 360 @ 1/32nd power in a 28" softbox, camera right.
You can read more about the setup and lighting diagram on my blog PLL Photography
Lover Boy by Phillip Ward, on Flickr
Lover Boy 2 by Phillip Ward, on Flickr
Lover Boy 3 by Phillip Ward, on Flickr
Have a photo comp coming up soon at work, nothing serious just run as part of the work photography club. Anyway this months topic is 'Portrait" took this today with my Sony RX100M3 whilst visiting family. This is my son. Shot RAW and edited in Lightroom.
Anyway, I would welcome feedback on which I should submit, or if its not worth submitting at all.
Joe Portrait-1 by Peter Goodwin, on Flickr
Joe Portrait-2 by Peter Goodwin, on Flickr
As has been extensively discussed, Fuji's jpeg engine is excellent. While I can produce equivalent results from raw conversion I've found it more practical to shoot jpeg and just let the camera do its thing. For a significant majority of images the results are more than good enough and spending time tinkering with development settings isn't my thing. However, on a few images I've hit trouble with jpeg compression artifacts. Mainly ringing of high contrast edges.
So if there was a near lossless superfine jpeg setting I'd shoot it all the time. Jpeg fine usually gives me between 3.6 and 7.1MB images depending on subject matter. I'm unsure of the details of the .raf format but 12 bits/pixel is 24MB---in reasonable agreement with the 25.6MB .rafs my X camera produces---implying lossless 8 bit would be around 18 or 19MB. I'm thinking if superfine jpeg typically came out in the 8 to 16MB range that'd work out pretty well.
This should be straightforward to implement; it's just another click on the fine/normal knob that's already in the firmware.
[First, I'd like to say hello to the FujiXer's, looks to be a great forum. The first part of this was written by me December 16th 2015 and posted on the DPReview forum. They completely ignored it from what I can tell and it was never posted. I suppose it was viewed as flame-bait but that absolutely wasn't my intent. I simply wanted to share my view as a person completely outside of the photography world attempting to wade the waters of value and feature sets of the incredibly complex camera landscape. It has taken me months to come to a conclusion on the system that deserves my hard-earned dollars.]
I’m a Photography Newb for context here.. lets get that out of the way. I’m 40 years old, highly technical, but have never owned a real camera. For more context, I carry 2 iPhones everyday, my entire family have iDevices and I live my life using and selling, cost-justifying technology and technology consulting services. I don’t have any biases for or against any camera manufacturers whatsoever.
My Wife and I have spoken throughout the years about getting a real camera and taking classes so we might understand how to leverage it to create better memories and heck, even some art for our home. It’s obvious to us how much better the photos taken with decent cameras appear in the hands of someone understands the craft. This year (2015) I decided to journey into the photography world (completely cold mind you) and do the research to find the camera that is right for us. I thought it would be a great Christmas gift for us to share and another thing we could enjoy doing together. I’m a researcher by nature too, one of my character flaws is that I deeply dislike buyer’s remorse thus I really spend time reading and fully understanding just about anything I purchase. I wanted to buy a Camera (and lenses) that might be easy enough for us to use while we were beginners and then not limit us as our skillset improved. Money was really no object but I don’t really intend on carrying something full-frame. Honestly I’d never even held a modern camera.
I stopped by our local camera store, Murphy Camera in Lexington Kentucky and was greeted by an incredibly helpful staff, they were patient and gracious as I began to understand their product lines and different offerings. They were also trying to understand me, the buyer and what would fit me best. Honestly with the bit of research I’d done before visiting the store, I made the decision that the Fuji XT-1 was most right for me until I held it in my hand. It’s gorgeous, reminiscent of my Dad’s 20 year old Pentax Super Program SLR (I’m a closet romantic and totally into nostalgia), but I found myself feeling intimidated by the dials and compact nature. I shared that with the representative and he smiled and wisely allowed me to hold one of Canon’s DSLR’s. A 70D. I’m 6’2” with proportional sized hands and I immediately found that to fit my hand so well. It felt like home. Still not ready to make a decision, I decided to return home empty-handed and research several of the Camera lines we discussed. I committed to purchase from my Camera store when I was ready (I’m in to supporting local business when possible). After week of research, I was pretty certain I wanted the Canon 70D and somewhere on the DP review forum I read where Camera Stores will rent cameras. It made perfect sense for me to rent the 70D and see if that’s what I wanted to plunk my money on. They were, of course, on sale and Canon was running a special with a free 13x19 Printer.. Which seemed like a decent value. I rented the 70D and spent the weekend with it. I carried it nearly every where I went and took the best pictures of my life (remember, I'd never actually use a decent camera). We couldn’t believe the difference in image quality. One thing became apparent though is the thing was just too big. In the first couple statements I shared that I carry 2 iPhones. I’m used to my devices being small, powerful and highly interactive. The Canon was large, heavy and only somewhat interactive. I liked the quality of the 70D’s photos, but not the size/weight. A friend of mine (unbeknownst to me) had just purchased a Nikon 7200 for his family and I had the opportunity to take a look at that also over the weekend. One thing that struck me immediately was when I went to touch the screen, it did nothing. Dead as a cold stone. That surprised me, kind of like a WTH moment. When I found myself rotating a detented wheel to see the photos on the camera, I felt like it was 10 years old. While the 70D’s touch screen works, it’s hardly what I would call a “good” user interface and it can be a little laggy when flipping through photos when compared to the iDevices I use every day. The revelation that far too many of the enthusiast level cameras have a large fancy screen that the manufacturer shares the dot count specs about but has zero interactivity or poor user interfaces makes no bloody sense to me whatsoever. I suppose this is where I begin to grind my axe (a little). Just about everyone today has a modern smartphone that provides a fast, rich, fluid, helpful experience that is connected to internet of things and can even update its own firmware. Why doesn’t the modern camera provide the same? I know the 70D is long in the tooth at this point but even the backlit Drive LCD panel on top seems a little last-decade not 3 years ago... I was struck by my impending conclusion. These camera’s just don’t seem modern to me. Heck they have WiFi but even then their experience varies. I’d expect for a camera to connect to a wifi access point and be able to seamlessly transfer photos to iCloud, Google, or Amazon photo services but that apparently doesn’t exist, I’d expect of all of them to provide a rich GUI experience helpful to the beginner, enthusiast and pro alike, I’d expect for them to HELP you take better pictures (I supposed some of the new “post photo adjustable focus” features are starting to do that) – I guess I was just expecting too much.
Where did I end up? Well, I ended up deciding I absolutely don’t want a DSLR as I don’t want that size. I like the idea of Mirrorless and after all of my research, the two cameras I was most excited to part with my money for are the Fuji XT-1 and the Sony a6000. What was the one thing that kept me from buying them? Might have guessed it. No touch screen. I cannot get used to having a device in my hand that has no direct way to interact with it’s interface. I decided not to buy a camera at all this time. (hangs head low) I’m waiting for CES this year to see what that brings. I promised my local camera shop that I’d be back (and I will). I’m hoping it’s 2016 that the Camera begins to catch the modern technology context, I’m hoping it will. I have the money burning a hole in my pocket and cant wait to hand it over..
[This ends the piece I wrote on December 16 last year. Fast forward to February 7th 2016]
After I took the 70D back I spent 2 weeks reading 2-4 hours a day to finally settle right back where I started. (Keep in mind how green I was, I didn't even fully understand what an f-stop was in December of 2015) I really like the Fuji System, especially the X-T1. I was able to use one for a couple weeks which included the XF 18-55 and a Rokinon/Samyang 12mm F2. I took it with me on a Cruise to Belize and Cozumel where I really started to fall in love with it during the week on vacation. I took over a thousand pictures and was incredibly satisfied with the results on my first go. Just 2 weeks ago I finally downloaded lightroom so I could learn how to work with RAW images and certainly see how incredible post-processing can be. I read somewhere that there are 3 types of photographers. Photographers that try to get it all correct in camera, photographers that try to get it close in camera and put finishing touches in post and finally photographers that that shoot in RAW on ISO Invariant cameras and do most of the work in post. I suppose I'm the 2nd type.
I'm 100% convinced the Fuji X system is for me. As it happened that my purchase fell at the emergence of a new generation of Fuji cameras, I've held off purchasing for now. In my mind the X-T2 is what I want and I'm hoping the X70's Touch Screen is a leading indicator of things to come. Several times over the weeks with the X-T1, I touched the screen to try to change the focus point or pinch to zoom a photo which is frankly an intuitive action, even with my love for the camera, it reminded me why I wanst ready to part with the money for it yet. I'm considering an X-E2S or X-T10 to have a great camera until we see the X-T2 and then perhaps will pass it to my wife. If the X70 had interchangeable lenses I'd probably look harder at it, but while using the X-T1 I really enjoyed using the EVF and really want that feature. The X-PRO2 looks awesome, but again for me, no touchscreen. It's really hard for me, an avid iDevice user to spend 2 grand on something with no direct interface. Also, my personal preference is more for the body size of the X-T1 versus the XPRO size. I really like the flip screen on the T1.
Anyway, if you're still reading.. Thanks. Sorry for such a long post. Just wanted to share, say hello and join in. Looks to be a great group here versus some "other" forums that seem more like shark infested waters of d-baggery. I'm looking forward to 2016.
Yesterday I bought a TCL-X100 and everything I have read about it is true although no one mentioned that it does make a good 1.4 monocular
However I bought it in its box unseen as my local camera shop was closing. When I got home I was surprised that it was much larger than any of the online photographs showed. It does have a very large and impressive front element but for those contemplating (candid) street photography as I am then I suggest that you physically see the lens attached to your X100x product before buying.
My reasoning is that whilst the X100x series body is inconspicuous, the body plus TCL-X100 is certainly not. note that the TCL-X100 is much larger than the wide angle WTC-X100 supplementary lens.
Of course my X-100T with TCL-X100 is much smaller to point at a subject than my Nikon D810 with 24-70mm lens but I still think my early efforts will be with the bare X-100T
Hi all. My X-E2 has developed a fault but I'm not sure if it's as a result of the firmware update.
Basically what's happening is that when the camera's been off for a while, (say over 10-15mins), it does not switch on when I toggle the on-off switch. However if i open the battery door and release and re-fit the battery it switches on without a problem. I have tried with different batteries and the same thing happens and it only happens when the camera has been switched of for over 10-15 mins. If i switch it off and back on again immediately or after a minute or two it works fine.
Has anyone encountered a similar problem? If not, any ideas what the issue could be?
Hi all, it's been a while for me posting something on fujix-forum.
I was a happy owner of the X-T1, which was a very nice camera, except for some minor things I couldn't get used to. The sad moment came when I traded in my X-T1 and my lenses for the Nikon D800, because I thought I needed the extra resolution and fullframe sensor. The D800 is a great camera with amazing detail and resolution, but do you really need it? I thought I did.
But, what's the point of having a big-ass camera which can make great photo's in extreme resolution, but you don't like to work with it? I have to admit I made a big mistake here, I traded my fujifilm for something 'more professional'. I couldn't be more wrong. Is the D800 a better camera when it comes to image quality, definitely. But there is something much more important then image quality, and that is the joy to make great photo's! That's something I underestimated. I made some amazing images with the D800, but this had nothing to do with the camera itself.
Long story short, after a year heavily using the D800, i'm back at the x-side
Hope you guys still allow me on the forum
Has anyone tried Pinhole photography using either an X Pro1 or X-E1?
Okay so I have an X-T1 with a 10-24mm and 35mm. Is it bad that I want an X-T10 just so that I can have the 10-24 permanently attached to the X-T1 and only whip out the X-T10 + 35mm at night? The important people in my life tell me it's a bad use of money (but that's what they said about converting my stocks into bonds a few months ago, look at what happened to the stock market now), but I'd like to hear what yall folks have to say. The X-T10 just look so small and fun... That with a compact lens, it's like a beefed up version of the X100T. Speaking of which, I want one of those as well just as a pocket camera.
I'm coming from Nikon and Godox - love the AF assist beam with this combo. Is there a flash which you can use AF assist beam on Fuji? Thanks!
The sun is out in London this morning, but yesterday was gloomy. I've posted the rest of the series as a reply to the thread to save the What's New page...
Winter's afternoon: roundabout on Flickr
Hello, fellow X-ers!
I have an X100T, X-T1, and several Fuji lenses, including the 35/1.4 and the 56. I'm looking to simplify my kit and perhaps sell the 35.
My question is, for those who have a 35, when would you choose that over your X10o/S/T?
Saw this strange place for companionship,within a restricted area, barred by a high fence, no gate to be seen. Would seem to take a lot of determination to get these chairs there. What might have been the idea to set up a place for two at a place like this, with trains passing all the time?
(X-T1, 18-55, 1/125 at f8, flash on camera, raw processing in C1)
Anyone here use one of these on a Fuji X yet?
I decided that 35 was suddenly to wide for my film stuff so I just had to have a fast 50 of some kind. Leica glass is prohibitively expensive (save the 35 Cron that my M4 wears most of the time), so I started looking elsewhere and, as many of you can probably relate, stumbled across the term 'Japanese Summilux.'
I have never shot with a Summilux, will quite likely never shoot with a Summilux for the aforementioned reason of cost. In addition, after purchasing this little gem, I think I'm good on glass for awhile.
I found this one on eBay for a decent price. It is immaculate and the glass is pristine. On my M4, it is just beautiful.
The 50 has primarily been on my film camera since it arrived. I've got an exposed roll of XP2 to drop off to see how it performs on film. Being a proper nut job I couldn't help but verify that the lens's and the rangefinder's focus points agreed. To test, I lined up the rangefinder in the camera on the edge of a lamp, took a look through a ground glass at the film plane and all was well. Phew! Now I can quit worrying about that.
Of course, on a mirrorless camera, there's no need to worry about where the mechanical rangefinder lines up as opposed to the lens itself. Which brings us to the digital shots.
At 1.4, this lens is sharp with some of the Canon glow wide open. It's perfectly usable provided you're not in a hurry. Depth of field is pretty thin. Also the focus throw is 180 degrees from minimum focus distance (just under a meter, bummer) to infinity. Moving the focusing ring is smooth but a bit stiff for my liking. In other words, there is no fast focus adjustment.
Aperture clicks are firm and it's not particularly easy to move the ring off of whatever setting it's on. This has its positives and negatives, depending on how you look at it. I may have the lens CLA'd to see whether it's just a function of old lube or whether that's just the way it is. I've read it both ways on the ole internet. Whatever the case may be, the clicks are in full stops.
Until I get the film back (and share the results in the various film threads), here are some various results having shot the 50 on my XE-1 over the last week or two. My girlfriend absolutely abhors having her photograph taken so when my friend and his son stopped by today I made the most of the opportunity.
I'm very happy with this little lens. It's solid, good looking and pretty much ignores flare (the little that's present in the above photos is from the B+W UV filter I leave on there all the time). I do get some CA wide open but it's pretty easy to address in Lightroom.
Another thing worth mentioning is that I own the 50mm 1.4 SSC in FD mount and never really got along with it on the Fujis. The LTM lens is head and shoulders better and is MUCH more compact with the tiny Leica adapter and smaller footprint. If anyone cares I can shoot some comparison shots at like apertures. I've seen some great shots out of the FD 50/1.4 so I've likely got a sub-par sample.
Visiting family in the Las Vegas area last week-end and we decided to visit the Valley of Fire State Park. If you get a chance to visit, it is about a 50 mile drive and well worth it.
The road before the park entrance:
Aurora HDR Pro 3 image bracket
Aurora HDR Pro 3 image bracket
Rainbow Vista - Aurora HDR Pro 3 image bracket