and cannot wait until tomorrow to open it. Must because of work...and that is kind of ok. Have been waiting a long time so 2 days more are ok and a nice goal.
I'm coming from the Xp1 so I have (too..)many expectations. I feel kind of nervous but of course in a good way.
I promised the XP1 that I will never leave it but no doubt about it; There is gonna be a new viewfinder in town
Two weeks ago, my girlfriend and I went to Swedish Lapland to climb mount Kebnekaise, the highest peak in Sweden. From the Sami village of Nikkaluokta it is a one day trek to the mountain station, than one full day of climbing and descending Kebnekaise (and an intermediate summit, Vierranvarri), which takes 10-14 hours, and another day back to Nikkaluokta. We were in luck. It has been said that northern Sweden only knows one week of autumn, and we were smack in the middle of it, including all the colours that autumn brings.
As we would be camping all the way, and had to carry all our equipment during hiking (but not during climbing Kebnekaise itself), weight was an issue. However, I definitely didn't want to leave my camera behind, so I decided to take my XT-1, the 16-55 and the 12 mm Samyang. The XT-1 and 16-55 also accompanied me to the summit. To be able to use my trekking poles and still be able to take photographs on the fly, I used the Peak Design Capture Pro clip to attach the camera to my backpack, and during the climb to my belt. I also used the Peak Design Shell to protect it from the snowdrift that fell during our climb. This system worked perfectly, and I couldn't be happier with it!
Due to other engagements, I haven't been able to fully sort out all the images I took, but I would like to share a few with you. I hope you like them, and I can only say that the images probably do not do justice to the beauty of this wonderful journey.
We won't be seeing these in our back yard much longer for this year. Guess I can look at photos as the season changes. This was captured yesterday with my X-T2 and 90mm lens.
The 2.5mm male to 3.5mm female adapter that can be found on ebay where the 2.5mm has three black rings like the ones for smartphones, will they work to record video sound in to the camera?
Cameras of today have pretty sophisticated light measuring tools. Which leads me to question how many folks still use a hand-held light meter.
I recently stumbled upon a review of a Sekonic LiteMaster Pro light meter that measures flash percentage which I thought was a brilliant, (no pun intended), idea. Adding to the intrigue is the fact that this meter can also can trigger a Pocketwizard. And for those of you shooting video, would one of these new meters be useful?
Anybody able to chime in and advise?
As usual, back to Fuji X I come...
I've purchased a Fuji X70 off of ebay with 2 batteriers, hood & filter adapter and a filter for a nice £400 delivered. It even came with the oiginal £499 receipt from Currys.
Now, the camera is only 2 weeks old according to the receipt, and the camera does look like brand new, but; the screen is lifting on one side and is not flush like the other side is. You can't quite get your fingernail under it but it's damn close. If you push it back down it stays there for a little while but then soon pops back out.
My questions are:
1) Has anybody else got this problem?
2) If you were in my position, would you just keep it and live with it or send it back to the seller?
Had one firmware update to 1.21, so just wondering if that is the end of the road for the X-T10?
As an ex Nikon user I have just purchased the XT2, initially it is a great camera but I do have a problem that someone may be able to help me out.
On Nikon I have always used the ETTR system with Raw files making good use of the histogram.
As you well know when you expose to the right, the playback image normally looks over exposed in the camera but works fine when its processed in ACR for example.
I am trying to use the WYSIWYG image in the EVF to assess exposure but because of exposing to the right, the EVF image is over exposed when the Histogram says it is ETTR correctly.
Is it possible to adjust the camera settings so the WYSIWYG image in the EVF looks correctly exposed when the Histogram is correctly ETTR?
Because the histogram on the XT2 is so small and on a see thro style background, depending on your subject, it is very difficult to see when the highlights start to clip.
Can it be made larger and clearer?
This is my first post so I hope everything is ok with the forum
I was so eager to hold my new X-T2 in my hands. I think a lot of old "X-T1" issues are soved and improved. After taking first pictures I have an issue with the back screen. The pictures as well as live image looks like a 20 years old VGA screen with 256 colours only. Please see attached picture. No issues with EVF, looks perfect there but the back screen looks horrible. Any idea? Is this is wrong setting somewhere? Or is it defect?
Any day now, these littled winged wonders will disappear from our area for about seven months, so I'm getting a few last shots for 2016. There are some interesting facts about humming birds (for example, they can't walk like other birds... it's basically perch in one place, or fly). But one amazing thing to me is that when they migrate, some are known to cross the Gulf of Mexico. Surely that flight is non-stop, unless they are lucky enough to encounter something on the water where they can rest a bit. Depending on where they cross, that distance is what (just guessing)... 400-500 miles? X-E2, XF55-200
Finally got round to buying a second hand xf23 and I've noticed the manual focus ring is pretty damn noisy when compared to my other lens. It almost sounds like a cat purring. Apologies if this thread has been raised before but is this normal??
Does anyone here have or have had both of these lenses and could comment on optical performance differences? Pros/cons? Rokinon/Samyang at f/2-f/4 and Fuji at 140mm f/2.8-f/4. Fuji is said to have a bit busy bokeh. Samyang/Rokinon probably outresolves the Fuji and has better bokeh too? Would love some hands on experience feedback, maybe even with sample photos, if anyone would be kind to share.
Using an X T2 I can't seem to get film bracketing to work. It keeps going to AE Bracketing. What I am trying to do is use: ACROS std, +yellow, and +red.
My name is Cosmin Cimil, I`m from Romania and I`m a freelance photographer and blogger.
I made my living as a photographer and I started using Fuji cameras for two years now. At this moment, I use only the Fuji X100T because it`s small, silent and has great image quality. I decided to work for a period of time only on personal work, therefore I don`t need another camera for what I do in present.
I finished the college in photography and another 2 years at some art school. Out of my frustration of what`s teaching in some universities about photography, I started Non-Technical Photography, a blog where I talk about creativity in photography and a place where I share my knowledge about this medium.
I`m very pleased to find this whole community and to read so many great topics and discussions, therefore I`m looking forward to talking with you about this wonderful art we have in common!
With the high ISO capabilities of digital, and much like the adoption of APS-C itself, everyone seems to be waking up to the idea that f/2 is a genuine sweet spot. I never lusted for Summilux 1,4 lenses, simply because the Summicron 2,0 versions were so good, never mind more affordable. It is déjà vu all over again.
Yet, at the same time, we must consider the scale effect when downsizing wide-angle lenses. The 23/1,4 is using 62 mm filter while the 16/1,4 has 68 mm. The difference in area between these two filters implies that a 16/2,0 will require a minimum 49 mm filter, if not 52 mm. A 49 mm might work but for possible hood vignetting problems. Or, to extrapolate a theoretical 14/2,0, this lens need have a minimum filter size of 52 mm. There is no free lunch here, wider angle lenses are physically bigger for a given aperture. Because of their complexity, they cost more, too.
If we are going to have a similar sized 16 mm to the 23/35/50 trio, I suggest a 16/2.8 (or 2.5) seems more probable. That is, what ever maximum aperture would keep the 43 mm filter size or the next size up at 46 mm. Using filter size as a design limit exploits the synergistic effect of keeping a "small lens" portfolio all roughly the same size, weight and hopefully, at a lower cost.
Equally attractive for the f/2,5 or f/2.8 concept is the potential to have even better optical quality across the entire field, ideal for landscape photography. It could help create a brutally sharp lens of high image contrast, while keeping costs lower and size smaller at the same time.
If Fujifilm must go to 49 mm filter or larger for a 16/2,0 it may well beg the issue of keeping small size and most probably have a negative affect on relative cost. 16/2,8 is a more attractive cost and size proposition.
Focus group meetings could indicate which way the crowd is leaning towards, a larger more expensive 16/2,0 or an affordable and more compact 16/2,8. Ultimately someone has to make the tough decision when focal lengths get this short. Let's start here.
Anyone know why the Fuji in-camera raw converter doesn't allow us to select an image size for the output? It would be handy sometimes to be able to create a small or medium sized file, for example for web use.
Also, if you shoot raw+jpg and take a picture in one of the non-default aspect ratios, such as 1:1, whilst the original jpg comes out with the chosen aspect ration, this aspect ratio is not used by the converter - the jpgs are always in 3:2. This seems a little odd - would be good to have the option of full 3:2 or aspect ratio 'as shot' when converting. Some computer-based converters honour this - LR I think uses the chosen aspect ratio only, Iridient gives you the choice.
This is on an X-Pro2 but I think it's the same on others.
Drycreek Photo Digital photo lab profiles has many ICC printer profiles listed by locations, printer model and paper used for many different venders. Example I click New York and all the Costco printer profiles are listed by locations, printer model and paper type glossy or lustre. I add the profiles in Windows in control panel, colors, color management, all profiles, click add and add profiles you downloaded from site. I used the profile for the Costco location in Lightroom when I export by clicking the color space drop down menu and select the Costco location and paper type. Costco for 8X10 uses Fuji printer, Fuji chemicals and Fuji paper. I 'm happy with the results at $1.79 for 8X10 prints. I have a good IPS 4K monitor and what I see is what I get. If you use Costco they have Auto color correct checked by default you have to uncheck that tab to use the profiles.
Hi folks, I am getting ready to invest in a Mac, and for the price, this is a long term investment for me. So, I am a curious as to whether it would be better to get the 27" iMac boosted to 16GB of ram / 1TB fusion drive. Or would I be served just as well with the 21" 4k iMac with the same upgrades?
I haven't decided yet on the new Medium format Fuji, but I could be quite tempted as we get further down the road with that... I bring that up because I am sure file size would have some effect of 4k vs. 5k.
Anyone have any experience with these two different Macs?
How do you find it for use with the 100-400?
Ok with the MHG?
Tracking good enough? (I know thats set to get better!) I come from 12 or more years shooting motorcycle road races in northern ireland et al both semi and professionally, have no need of the auto tracking settings available in the new T model, I just don't like leaving too much up to the camera.
Looking for an update to my X-T1 around the year end and the more I've held the Pro 2 the more I like it! I don't currently own the long lens and my local camera store won't get one in! I plan to get that around next April, will most likely be used for critters and the odd airshow but my main interest is and always will be landscapes.
Not interested in battery grips nor 4K nor bendy screens, theres just too much that I don't feel I want on the new T2.
I know I can switch a lot of it off but I don't want it in the first place, I could wait for an XT20 or something but for me it needs to have at least some rudimentary sealing, I live in Cumbria England which is the rain capitol of this part of the world...
I am looking into buying a second hand XF56 from eBay, I've been using an adapted Rokkor 1.4 50mm and really love the lens so I am looking to get the Fuji version and benefit from the auto-focus etc.
One of the eBay sellers say they have only had their XF56 a few months along with some other gear so it would still be under guarentee.
I asked if they would include the receipt but they said they wouldn’t as it had their name on it – I thought this a bit strange?
They then added they were selling a lot of Fuji X gear and there were other items on the receipt - I wonder if the fact there were more than one item on the receipt was more of an issue to them than their name. I’d find their name out the moment I bought it through eBay.
I have just replied saying I would be happy with a scanned copy of the receipt.
If they will not even give me that then I think I’ll leave it, sounds a bit dodgy like the gear could be stolen or it’s not really that new.
Does anyone know if Fuji would still honor the receipt even if I wasn’t the original purchaser?
I know the Fuji X gear is supposed to be pretty reliable but after my first X-T1 arrived DOA I am a little cautious, the used XF56s are almost as much as my X-T1 at £500-600!
Thanks in advance.
Hey, does anybody know if the flashes mentioned in the title will work off camera in manual mode with the xpro2 and xt2 in canon mount? Choosing these two because they have integrated receivers and in the godox case a lithium battery as well. Thanks in advance.
I am traveling this week and yesterday I had the opportunity to watch a falconry show where they had birds of prey flying freely. To save weight I had left my heavy 100-400 lens home and only the very slow 50-230 with me. I have a ton of pictures where the X-T2 nailed focus even with birds that moved very quickly across different backgrounds. From my experience there would be no way to get that number of good pictures with the X-T1.
I am deeply impressed and glad to say that this time the hype is true. I shot all pictures with Zone mode and Boost on. Didn't use the grip.
Hi, I bought a canonet camera that came with a small canolite D flash.
Is it safe to use on xt2? I have used an old quantaray flash and it's been alright.
I've previously owned an X100 (Black) which was hands down one of the best cameras I'd ever owned. Unfortunately tho, when I was going thru some $ issues a couple years ago I had to decide b/t my Ricoh GR & the X100... and ended up selling the X100.
Well, now I want her back.
My gut is telling me to find another X100 but thought I'd ask advice here first... so. should I re-buy an X100 or look for a newer X100s or X100T?