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Just saw this on my Chrome home page. The only thing missing is the cameras.
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With all of the ruckus regarding the 35/2 lens correction issue, people posting images (very nice images in IMHO) from their new lenses and others evaluating these images, I would like to discuss the different types of lens distortions.

Distortions You Can't Control
  • barrel distortion - straight lines are curved outward
  • pincushion distortion - straight lines are curved inward
Both of these can have second order effects. The curvature is more complex. There are multiple shapes to the curvature..

Barrel/pincushion distortion is simple to model and correction parameters to minimize the curvature(s) minimize are common. As discussed elsewhere there are trade-offs to software distortion correction.
  • anamorphic distortion
A third kind of distortion has to to with the elongation of objects as the are moved from the center of the frame to the edge. Square objects appear rectangular and spherical objects resemble ovals. This positional distortion is obvious with nearby objects viewed using wide angle lenses. In my experience this distortion is also a function of the subject distance, but I can not find any rigorous descriptions. However the following quote from Roger Hicks is useful.

"True wide-angle distortion describes the way in which three-dimensional objects near the edges of the field of view appear ‘stretched’ out of shape because of the angle of view of the lens: a round ball is distorted into an ellipse, and a human head can look quite unpleasant. It is not so much a defect as an inherent property of extreme wide-angle lenses: it cannot be ‘designed out’ and has been used to powerful creative effect..."

DxO (and probably other platforms) offer anamorphic distortion correction tools.

Distortions You Can Control

  • Perspective distortion
Perspective distortion is a misnomer. The effects are not due to deficient optical designs. They are not distortions. A common example is the compression effect of telephoto lenses. Because you can stand far away from the subjects, the distance between them appears to be shorter than it actually is. The opposite happens with wide-angle lenses. You can stand closer to the subject and so the distance between objects appears longer than it actually is. However perspective distortion is not a function of focal length. It depends on a single factor - the distance between the lens and the subjects.

  • Keystone Distortion
Keystone distortion is also a misnomer. It is a subset of perspective distortion. Keystone distortion is also described as converging verticals. Parallel lines in the scene become non-parallel in the photograph. Converging verticals only occur when the camera is not level to the scene. Tilting the camera vertically will eliminate converging verticals. Often it is impossible to frame the entire subject (a tall building) without tilting the camera. Tilt-shift lenses shift the image to cancel the converging verticals. More commonly this tilt is corrected during post-production. Software correction of converging verticals is routine. The correction process is simplified when no horizontal tilt present. However software correction does crop the image.

Keystone distortion is not barrel distortion.
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Did some maternity/anniversary photos where my daughter got married. I used both Canon 5Dmk3 and XE2 (and generally preferred the 5Dmk3 as it had less focusing errors). Took one image to try out Topaz Impression (Topaz Impression).

So here's the original and I just masked back the couple for the final version and cleaned it up a bit.

I'd say it's worth playing around for some images. Particularly good if you want a Painterly look, but can't get your head around Painter.

XE2, 55-200@f57.8mm, 1/500th sec, iso 2500, handheld.

900-1 DSCF2662.jpg 900-3 DSCF2662 comp.jpg
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I want to try some UV photography.
Either under sunlight or with a UV torch/light. I have a UV torch that emits at 380nm, I can get a lightsource of 320nm if required.

I have a Nikon D70S that is a spare camera for my underwater setup but which is also good for UV photography according to this article.
Photography of the Invisible World: A simple tutorial for reflected UV photography II

I know of Klaus but I dont know him personally to send a blind email asking this question (below).

So which filter should I buy to use on the front of my lens which is a Schneider Componon S 135mm f5.6 enlarging lens that is suitable for UV use. The lens will be mounted on a Nikon PB5 bellows for focussing, and will have the Nikon AF-1 filter holder for holding the purchased filter.

Which of these filters is 'best' for UV photography?

Sky's the Limit 2" Venus U Premium High Transmission filter with data


B+W UV Durchlass Schwarzfilter 403 62mm 62 NEUWARE

Does anyone know or able to give advice?

Thanks in advance.
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Have had one of these for a wee bit, but this was the first opportunity to use it. Decided to use it to take some shots of the old car in order to sell it. Not bad!


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Anyone using a sling strap on their X-T1 with only a single lug? I used to carry a 7D and 70-200 2.8 IS II on a single lug with the OpTech Utility Sling on loved it. I could literally just rest my hand on my camera and never worry about it. I picked up an OpTech Mirrorless Sling for my X-T1 when I switched and am not as happy with it. I use both lugs as I don't have as much faith in the mini QD's (and one is fraying). I'm debating on picking up another Utility Sling and trying a single lug setup using the original metal rings in the lugs with the standard Optech QD's. My heaviest lens is the XF 10-24, but there may be a 50-140 in my future. Anyone used this arrangement before? Are the lugs designed to support the entire weight of the system from a single lug?
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Snapshot from the Hex' 1,7/50 from yesterday. It's not my favourite lens, but it hands me some nice shots from time to time.

One thing that seems to jump out at me with all of the AR Hexanons is that the out of focus areas / bokeh are substantially different than any other lenses I own.

The bokeh always seems somewhat... busy... but not in the usual "lots of crappy highlights" way. Instead, the Hexanon bokeh always seems more dynamic, almost like motion blur, even when nothing's moving in the background. Not sure if that adequately describes it, but it always looks unique. Same thing on the 57mm and 50mm... didn't shoot with the 52 for long enough to get a sense of it from that lens though.

Fetching the mail in the rain
by Tim Lukian, on Flickr
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Last week I posted about a Samyang SY16M-FX 16mm f/2.0 Aspherical Wide Angle Lens for Fuji X that was on sale at Amazon for $238.49. I purchased one and went to Central park NYC on Monday. The following images were all taken with that lens. _DSF4846.jpg _DSF4869.jpg _DSF4854.jpg _DSF4905.jpg _DSF4870.jpg
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Anyone have any thoughts on what the smallest backpack might be that can fit an X-T1 and a 16-55 + 50-140? The challenge here of course is that both of those lenses are pretty big so I think even the "smallest" backpack isn't really going to be that small. Ideally I want a configuration that supports either lens mounted and the other stowed, so I can just grab and go regardless of which lens is attached.

I have an older LowePro Slingshot 202 and technically it will hold both lenses but I haven't found a configuration that would accept either lens mounted and the other stowed without having to move the dividers around each time.

I'm looking at the ThinkTank Trifecta 8 Mirrorless and based on the pics I think it would work. It's a little bigger overall than what I was hoping for, but like I said, I realize I'm going to need to make some sacrifices considering the size of those lenses. It is what it is.

Any thoughts?


Edit: I just watched this video and the Trifecta 8 will definitely support either lens attached, but the bag is also a lot bigger than I thought it was. Was hoping for something smaller.
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As you come across specials, please post them here. :)

Not all deals are available everywhere so if you know they are for a specific region, post that info as well if you are aware of it.
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As I was waiting for the X-Pro2, I decided that I'd be happier with an X-Pro1 and some spending money. So far, no regrets.

Let me quote from Arjay in an old thread:

"Don't ask me why, but there is a clear difference in the duration of the black phase between continuous and timed review: If set to 1.5s or 3s, the black phase is practically non-existent. If set to continuous, the black phase takes approx. 2s when shooting raw files.This black phase corresponds to the time the camera is taking to save the image file to the SD card. . . . Interestingly, the black phase will be the same if the Image Disp. function set to OFF or to any timed value."

My image display is set to "off" but I'm experiencing what seems like endless delays before I see an image on the LCD. (In reality, probably about three seconds.) Also, the LCD stays black until the camera makes a low noise. Once I hear that noise and push the playback button, the image pops up on the LCD screen.


A possible explanation that just occurred to me: I shoot using the viewfinder (optical, usually) but I look to the LCD for playback. Could it be that the image is being displayed in the viewfinder but takes a few seconds--and often, several pushes of the "playback" button--before anything shows up on the LCD? If so, is it possible to designate the LCD as my playback medium of choice regardless of what I used to take the picture?

Many thanks.
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I snapped a couple of images of my hand after working on my car this morning. In my hand are pieces of two notorious bolts known affectionately as the "pinch bolt". If anyone is interested in having a go at composing a final image from the raw, I'd love to see what you came up with. Please share what editor and adjustments--no winners or losers, just for fun.

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A joyous ritual of circumcision. More here.

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Hi All,

Just did a quick little video review of the Fuji XF 90mm after using it on a recent gig.


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Weird feeling...

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At a local church

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Hello All,

I asked and was allowed to photograph him

Fuji X T1 with 16-55mm 2.8

Iso 600
f 2.8
focal 33mm
speed 1/200

Greetings Jakke

NXT14199 v2 FF.jpg
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Got a chance to do a brief photo walk around my neighborhood this weekend and test out the new 35 F2. I've always been a fan of the 50mm focal length, but I'll admit, I had to readjust after using the x100T so much. Initial impressions are great. Focuses fast and accurately, is silent, aperture ring moves very well and not as loose as the 35 f1.4. I was worried about the distortion after seeing some posts, but didn't really encounter anything crazy so for the most part (even if it's software corrected) the lens rendered well.

All photos were taken on an X-Pro 1. C&C is always welcome.

First shot with the lens

Nasty Gal (perfect example of being used to a wider FOV w/ 35mm compared to 50mm)

A buddy of mine after checking out the latest exhibit at the Annenberg Space for Photography

Not quite sure what this guy was doing. Fiddling with his belt/pocket/self for a while

It was nearly 90*F on the beach yesterday. Record temps in Los Angeles all weekend. But I suppose if you run real cold you might need a hoodie and scarf (and flip flops)




Spent a fair amount of time at the skate park. There were three guys who were absolutely killing it! Plus the light/shadows were pretty great.




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