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Hello everyone. I'm just starting out on macrophotography, and I've been lucky enough to have some cameras handed down to me. Among those is a Fujifilm X-10. I've been very pleased with it's macro modes. They focus so sharply, so quickly. It's a great camera if I want to grab a shot in a hurry, as it has a very quick power up time and such a quick time to focus for the macro shots.

I've also been enjoying the flexibility of the settings. I see it becoming my "studio camera" and the camera I'll first use to learn different types of photography from, as there are so many specialized settings for different types of photography. I've read that it's one of the better cameras for night time photography, so I plan to do my night photography with it first.

I've started off with lots of memory cards, so I have plenty of memory to take pics. I'm looking forward to learning all the ins and outs of photography, macrophotography in particular, so that I can get to a point where I'm taking full control over things instead of relying on automatic settings. I'm already adjusting ISO for the light outside and taking exposure compensation into consideration. I usually have the AWB at auto. My main focus right now is light, as macro is particularly touchy on that. I see many differing opinions on whether to use a flash or not, etc. Things will be especially challenging, as I like to take pictures of insects, especially spiders, and they are often the smallest macro subjects. Jumping spiders are miniscule! I find that having a good megapixel rating and a good lens gives me leeway, as I can crop a picture and still get good detail if I didn't manage to get to the subject as close as I wanted to. I realize already, though, that a poor rating in just one of those areas negates the advantages the other area offers!
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Hi all! Just got my new X-T2 last week and I'm using a dual SD card setup. Now I understand the menu options allow me to shoot RAW+Fine. I currently have it setup as RAW in slot 1 and Fine JPG in slot 2.

1. When I delete an image on RAW slot 1 it doesn't delete the same pic saved as Fine in slot 2. I'm assuming there's no way it'll delete both images on slot 1+2 at the same time? I actually have to switch over between the two memory slots to manually delete the same image. I hope you guys may know a way around this or if not then I hope Fuji will have that option in a firmware update.

2. I know that when I choose to shoot in film bracket mode it makes me choose between 3 film simulations in JPG only. Is there any way to continue to shoot RAW to save on slot 1 and bracket film simulation shots saved as JPG in slot 2?

3. Does RAW shooting mean that the camera will save the RAW file with a film simulation and Fine JPG with chosen film simulation as well? I wish to shoot RAW in color saved in slot 1 with Fine JPG saved in ACROS slot 2.

Am I crazy for asking such questions and asking for too much or do you guys have the same request/workflow?

Love to hear your thoughts!
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A couple of shots of sunset from home this evening. Sky lit up nicely for a short time. Almost no processing, load raw, apply Velvia profile in LR, adjust highlights and add a smidgen of clarity and export.

XT2 18-55mm lens.

[​IMG]Sunset Laguna Beach by Alan Smallbone, on Flickr

[​IMG]Sunset 9/27/2016 by Alan Smallbone, on Flickr

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I am trying to take photos using the EF-X8 as a fill flash, particularly at night. It seems I am constantly struggling to get a balanced shot. If I set the flash compensation to zero, the person is often well overexposed. For this reason, I usually set flash compensation to -1 or more. This usually works, but often the person is well underexposed. A few times, the person has been completely black as if the flash did not fire (though I know it did).

I have read that the X100S and X100T nail fill flash shots with perfect balance, every time without manual fussing. Is there a way to set the XT-1 to get similar performance?

It thought the XT-1/EF-X8 had TTL, but it does not seem to work for me, at least not as easily as the TTL did on my old Nikon D50. I am happy to read articles on how this little flash works best, but I have not been able to find much online that helps me understand how to best use it.

Thanks for the help.
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Baking Challah. More 160927_016_sep2.jpg .
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I've bought an X-T2 and have left over an Acratech "arca swiss" type plate that is custom fit for the bottom of the X-T1 "with the grip." In other words, the plate fits the bottom of the grip perfectly.

Anyone needing such an arca swiss type plate for your X-T1 vertical grip, shoot me a private message. Continental US only please.

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I always read that a memory card should be formatted in the camera for which it is to be used. Now with a T2 plus an E2, I would rather not have to keep my cards in two sets when formatted by one camera or the other. Initial cross-processing :) showed no ill effects, so maybe the formatting is identical with either camera. Any ideas?
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XPro1 and XF60mm catching a kayaker on the Chicago River.

Thanks for looking,
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Recently got a Novoflex Castbal T/S bellows for some macro work. I also splurged for the Schneider Kreuznach Apo-Digitar 4.5/90mm, since it came as a kit for a really good price. So I took the last pepper that came from our garden and did some product/still life type of shot - which is actually quite difficult to do well. Certainly plenty wrong with the shot below and still a lot to learn, but looks cool nonetheless - and that Apo-Digitar is one sharp lens...

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I haven't been around much of late. The internet connection here at the university in Shaoxing is downright terrible and slow. Shot this a couple of days ago. X-E2 with XF 18-55mm. Best to all. Don

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My dog and I went on a late sunset walk.
Since more than 4 years I know the P1 quite well so no fast focus and shutter lag I am used to.
I am satisfied with this set of pictures. But now I wonder how these pictures would have been with the T2.
Soon time to find out:)

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I was shooting yesterday and my hands were frozen. This has been the case for years. My fingers get so cold I can barely use them then they sting when warming them back up. Hurts like hell and it's not getting any better.

I'm looking for suggestions from fellow shooters to help with this problem. I would like something that I can still use and operate all the buttons and dials and my great, fantastic Fuji machine.

All suggestions are welcomed. I've put up with this problem for too many years.
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X100S using the built-in ND filter catching an architecture tour boat at sunset on the Chicago River.
4 sec at f16 and ISO 200 while balanced on a concrete lamp post base - because someone will ask :cool:.

Thanks for looking,
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I saw this advertised and looked at the specs as listed in this DPReview. Size etc it reminds me of my X-M1 which I would still prefer to this newer camera.
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Hi all,

I bought a shiny new X-T2 last week and have been very happy with it. However, today I bought the official base plate to give it a better grip and a bit more 'heft' and I noticed it strange when it refused to screw into the tripod socket. After close inspection I noticed that the socket had no thread, it was completely smooth!

Has anyone had any similar experiences? Should there be a thread there?

It seems it will have to go back. Under normal circumstances it should be a straight swap but here in Russia the after-sales service procedure is Byzantine to say the least. I could be without it for a long time.
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I just purchased a Vello Shutterboss RC-C1II intervalometer (wired version) to use with my Xt1. When I plug in the jack I am able to fully program the device and when I push the Timer/Start/Stop button the camera is engaged and everything works fine. But when I push the big Hold button as a simple shutter release nothing happens or at least the camera doesn't engage (I also own the plain Vello shutter release and it works just fine with my Xt1.) Has anyone else had this problem? Is it a faulty device, something that I need to adjust in my camera or is this a level of incompatibility between the Shutterboss and the Xt1? Feedback or suggestions would be most appreciated.
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I was covering an all day event over the weekend doing multiple portraits, trying to get the most out of my batteries. Unlike my X-T1 which was permanently left in High Performance mode, I switched my X-T2 from Boost Mode to Standard and noticed the display on the back would get stuck, then try to catch up, jump around until I stopped moving, then it would show a proper up to date live preview. Almost like the frame rate was too slow to keep up with my movements, even though they were very subtle movements. It's sort of like trying to stream video on a super slow connection. I was distracted in front of subjects since I didn't know what was happening, so it did bother me a little bit at first. Once I pressed the shutter button half way down, the screen would usually catch up. It's not a huge issue and seems to only happen in Standard Mode on the LCD (EVF is fine), but I wanted to see if this was normal for all X-T2 cameras. I have another portrait session tonight so I'll try to get a short video of what's going on.
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Thanks for looking! [emoji5] September 02, 20161712355555555.jpg
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Hi all,
Has any one compared the two lenses purely from technical or bench mark performance wise? (I understand the limitations of manual focus only with the Nikon) I do not need a "fast" focusing etc., and debating whether to get the 55 with the rebate or wait and see 50/F2 in a few months. Appreciate your thoughts
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X-T2 18-55mm Acros JPEG
One of the reasons I was interested in the X-T2 was Acros. I am not disappointed. Unlike some others I like shooting this simulation in camera. In general I am much more impressed with the output JPEGs sims in the X-T2 than I am in the older series but will likely continue to shoot RAW with the exception of Acros.
Ohio River Shore - Gallipolis
by David, on Flickr
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Dear All,

I still wait for my Fuji XT-2, however, as of next week, the wait will be over!
I have moved across from Canon as some of you know, and I have now the Fuji 35mm f2, the Fuji 16-55 f2.8, the Fuji 90mm f2 and the Samyang 12mm f2.
I do all kinds of shooting, mostly landscape and street and travel and some astrophotography, I will also be doing some promo shoots including portraits for a musician.

I have heard so much about the greatness of Fuji's primes, but felt safer buying the 16-55, what do you suggest?

Is the 35mm f1.4 better than the f2? The Fuji 56mm 1.2 + Fuji 16mm f1.4 better than the 16-55, the 56mm better than the 90mm?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

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LCD monitor not displaying image on playback. Support tech for Fuji couldn't determine the cause so had me reset the camera which corrected the problem. Also at times there's a rapid slight flash on the LCD or in the view finder when pressing the shutter button before taking a photo. Anyone else having experienced this issues?
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Just in case no one has seen it...

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Just a quick shot of part of the rear of a 1965 Ford Mustang that caught my eye.

X-T1, 10-24mm Lens, 1/350th @ F8, ISO-200, Handheld.
[​IMG]65 Mustang Route 66-03312 by G.K.Jnr., on Flickr

Thank you for looking and any comments welcome.,

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I have an X-T2 and cannot get the AE-L setting to work. AF-L works fine. When I press the AF-L button, it locks focus as it should and indicates it is locked on the screen. However, when I press the AE-L button, nothing happens. I have it set-up for the button to be AE-L. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Not sure which category I'd put this under. But late night skating San Francisco. I love how supportive the community can be. People just coming and interested in the outcome. Really late so hard to shoot it for a rookie like me, but still a very great moment nonetheless. All criticism welcomed as well. Getting really interested in shooting portraits as of lately so will give that a shot.

Shot with Fuji xpro 1
nikkor S 55mm f1.2 shot at f4

Luis Nose Grind SF.jpg
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XE2, XF23mm/1.4 image.jpeg
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Has anyone been successful in threading the newest verion of the Peak anchors (rated at 200#) directly through the neck strap lug? The older type (rated at 75#) can be easily thread though, but the newer version appears a little bit thicker. I haven't had any luck in getting the newest anchor thru the lug. I would like to avoid using a split ring and then attaching the anchor to it.
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I'm traveling in California and Oregon with my new X T-2. Everything seemed to be working great until yesterday. I took a series of photos in the afternoon sun and there were white spots all over the photos. They were visible on my iPad on straight out of the camera jpegs. In 13 years of using digital cameras, Canon, Nikon, iPhone, and Fuji X E-1, I have never seen anything like this. I got the camera with 25 actuations so on it on Sept. 8. I ignored the actuations and liked everything about the camera until this happened. However it's going back to return unless I get a substantial explanation about what would cause this.

I'm working just from my iPad, so I don't think I can downsize the files to upload. I will when I get home later this week. Has anyone heard anything about this problem with the X T-2? The spots are definitely not dust or anything I've ever seen.
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I've always been curious about the Peak Design Messenger Bags, especially the smaller 13" version, but I didn't want to buy one just to find out that it doesn't work well for me. So I watched most Youtube videos about them and tried to find out as much as possible.

Overall, the bags seem to have many good ideas and features but also quite some downsides, at least for me. I've heard about straps not holding their length, no space for a pen even though there is a bunch of "pre-divided" space, the front pocket being too flat and so on.

Overall, what I saw didn't make me jump at them but I was definitely curious about the feature that a lot of reviews rave about: the "origami dividers". So, to find out more about these, I ordered some and used them for a bit in my very similarly sized Billingham Hadley Pro. Of course, I'm not making any statements about the Messenger bags after this test, but I am making a statement about the dividers, so, if you are curious, read on.

Reviews and also Peak Design's own videos were pointing out these dividers as if they were the greatest thing ever happening to camera bags. Saying that others try to put "round things into square holes", and how inflexible other bags are and I have to say – they aren't wrong. Unfortunately, I didn't find that the Peak Design dividers are a solution to these problem:
  • Round things – square holes and the wasted space: sure thing, that's happening, but the Peak Design dividers waste about the same amount of space, just in a different part of the bag. It doesn't help you if you wrap them around a lens to make it fit better if you are leaving larger areas unoccupied on the other side.
  • Flexibility: They are flexible, but really not that much actually. Sure, you pull the bottom velcro and move them to the side, but ... would I do that? No, not really. They also don't fold away as nicely as I hoped, have to be pulled up for it (bottom velcro) and are actually pretty stiff to move.
  • Folding: the folding mechanism can fold down for example on top of the lens, but the downside of this is that it removes the division of the bag above that lens. So, that's kind of useless to me. I'd like to stack lenses, but if you fold down both of these dividers, you end up with an open space on top that runs the full width of the bag. Useless. Or useful, depending on what you want to put there.
After a few days of using them I plain couldn't stand them anymore. I went back to the standard Billingham dividers and set up a slightly different partitioning than I had before and I'm happy with that.

Summary: Personally, I think these "origami style" dividers are not a solution at all. Instead they created more problems for me and where actually less flexible for the bag layout than the Billingham dividers. So, I'm out a few bucks, gained some experience, and am cured from looking at the Peak Design Everyday Messenger bags as camera bags for me.

Now, all that being said, I'm a backer of their 20L Everyday Backpack and hope that the more flexible dividers in that one are more useful and the other features of the pack will work for me. We'll have to see when it finally arrives, but right now, I'm not nearly as hopeful as I was when I backed the campaign.
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An image from a portrait session today using only window light and a reflector. Image made with my Xe-2 and the 56mm lens. Classic Chrome simulation. Processed in Light Room.
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Last year I noticed with the X-T1 and the 23mm lens, that many of the pictures that I shot at 1/125th of a second or slower just weren't sharp. At first I thought it was the lens, but then ran a few tests - using the monopod and tripod, and determined that it must be me, that I wan't holding the camera steady enough, although I thought that 1/125th should be way fast enough not to have any camera shake affect the results. Fast forward to today - shooting the X-T2 over the weekend at an event - choral group in a hallway - using the 16 - most shots at 1.4 to 2.0 with shutter speed 1/125th. Again, zoomed in to 100 percent there is a definite lack of sharpness ... those shots at 1/160th or faster are crisp. Again, I ran some tests with monopod, and could get fairly clear shots even at 1/15th .... so, another lesson learned this late in life :) Note - many of the shots that were obviously not sharp were held arm out using the LCD ... many of those that I had better results with were eye to the EVF and arm braced. I was a bit surprised given that the 16 is much smaller/lighter than the 23.
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x-e2, 55-200@200 F11,1/125

More in reply
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I am trying to get a group of photos out to family members that attended a wedding. I have the latest (subscription) version of LR/PS.

Any recs for a plug in to touch up those shiny foreheads and character lines?

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I can connect without problem between my Android mobile phone or tablet and the camera, but if I change the default shooting settings I just can shoot only one pics and a message "processing" appears in the window of my app, the problem goes if I reset the camera, but when I change again from JPG to RAW the problem returns. Another thing I discovered is if I change in camera remote to shoot a movie and return to shoot a pic I can but only ones and the message return, any advice will be much appreciate, thanks
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