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Having lugged a Canon 7D2 + 100-400mm around for some years, I have to say that buying this camera harness saved my life, well neck anyway, and my new Fuji X-T2 + 100-400 is also very comfortable, and light.
It takes all the weight off your neck so if you have "neck problems" like this old gitt, it's a must.

Anybody else use these? I see they've gone up a few pounds since I bought mine!

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I have a love-hate relationship with my Konica Hexanons...I don't really hate them, but I don't love them either. I don't know if it's the way they feel, the focus action, the notchy aperture ring but something about them just kinda bugs me. But...every time I decide to sell them I review the images and they look so wonderfully film-like that I end up with another one. They're like rabbits. It's similar to my relationship with Hondas, I always swear that I will never own another one, that I'd rather own any other car than a Honda, then I start looking and test driving.

I just bought a CRV.

I see a Hexanon 28/3.5 (7/7 version) in my future. :eek:

Hexanon 24/2.8
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the immortal
by kevin dixey, on Flickr

Hexanon 50/1.4
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the gamer
by kevin dixey, on Flickr

Hexanon 40/1.8
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kiiiity
by kevin dixey, on Flickr
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option is greyed out........any suggestions
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Sorry mis-typed title. Should be "Bacopa flowers".
X-A1 with Minolta MC Rokkor-QF 50mm f/3.5 Macro with 1:1 adapter. Close to minimum focusing distance (very slight crop). 3 sec exposure at f/22. DSCF5995_crop_f22_small.JPG
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Taken on a X-T2 with the 16-55mm F2.8.

DSCF7207.jpg
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Yosemite lower falls. Fighting back the force of the falls.

[​IMG]DSCF7622 by Ryan Lio, on Flickr
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It seems that a firmware update for HSS Degreef & Partner Nieuws is available for Nissin i60A and i40 flashes for Fuji. As we all know the flash will have to be sent to distributor for firmware update. If Dutch distributer has it I assume USA has it as well.
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As I was checking out my Facebook feed last night an add came up for a Kickstarter project called Arsenal.

While many of the features didn't interest me too much, but what did, besides supporting Fuji cameras, was the ability to do focus stacking with them. While I've used a CamRanger for many years to create focus stacks with my Nikon, CamRanger have advised me there is no intention of supporting Fuji cameras.

Anyway, I just wanted to let other know in case you might be interested.

For me, I'm not so sure. I'm considering moving over to Olympus just for the focus stacking ability.

Arsenal DSLR And Mirrorless Smart Camera Assistant (video) - Geeky Gadgets
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People complaining for the "OLD" 23mm f2.0 on the new 24mp sensor...?

I found it crazy sharp, even at f2

See this example, OOC, sharpening set to zero. And the 100% crop as you can see wasn't even on the center of the frame, this amazes my, a lot!

crop.jpg insieme.jpg
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Hello everyone,

I am very new to flash photography. Recently I bought a 80x80 Godox collapsible rectangular S-mount bracket softbox, which I heard good things about. So I am very much excited. Now few days ago I went out with my friends at night near a river. So I wanted to take portraits there with the softbox. Now a few problems I faced, but obviously I am not gonna ask every single help for all of those. But I wanna mention a few and wanna have your expert opinions.

1. It was near river bank. Almost no ambient light. On the other side of the river, there were a few lights. I wanted to capture the bokeh also. So I used the flash, but no way I could capture those bokehs properly. It always turned into black background and a few washed out bokeh. In post processing, I could recover in one photo though, but I didn't know it was captured. So, what's the technique in these kind of situations to properly illuminate the subject and keeping the distant bokeh lights? (see the photos below. all are unedited)

2. Now, as I mentioned about my new softbox, I thought the light will be very flattering. The light is good, but I am a bit concerned about the transition of shadow. I know it depends on lot of factors. See the photos below and the softbox was always almost within 2-3 ft. do you think the transition is as it should be? I know it's a tough one to answer. But gimme some input please. (see the photos below. all are unedited)

DSCF6694.JPG DSCF6681.JPG DSCF6696.JPG DSCF6686.JPG DSCF6705.JPG

Thanks in advance.
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Hi all,

I've been reading here since I made to decision to replace my old, dust ridden, 8mp Canon Digital Rebel back when the XT-2 first came on the scene. I finally purchased it about a month ago and have been struggling to get through the manual, which reads like "War and Peace" ever since. I also have the book "120 X-pert Tips" to help out.
I'm not a photographer ... actually do not have the artistic abilities that God gave a slug, but I like to capture moments in time. I'm determined to learn this new camera, although it's a steep learning curve from where I came from, but I'm already pleased with the results. I try to learn a few new items with the equipment every day, and some is already sinking in, but I'm aware that the road ahead is a long one!
I just did the new 2.1 firmware update this morning, and I suppose, in large part, it has made "War and Peace" obsolete. But I keep plugging away..
Bought a new Think Tank Retrospective 5 in Sandstone, and have a few other necessities in mind, but first things first..

I'll probably remain mostly a reader, but just wanted to pop in and thank everyone for the help and info I've already received...

Thanks,

Bill
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Hello everyone,

I recently bought a 56mm and I am in love with it. But I also bought a new softbox which I am excited to use outdoor portraits. But problem is I have X-T10 and its flash sync speed is 1/180s. So even at 200 ISO and exposure compensation -3, already every highlight in the photo is clipped. It looks disgusting :p

So, what's your suggestion?
1. ND or Variable ND?
2. If ND, which one would be versatile through different time of day? I have a 10 stop, but of course that'd be too much for just portraits.
3. If variable ND, which one? I see good ones are overly expensive and I heard a new brand is coming which claims there will be no x-pattern issue, but forgot its name.
4. Any alternative idea?

TIA
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Hello all, I know there's a heap of threads on thumb rests for the X100 series but I'm wondering if it was my imagination (or wishful thinking) when I "thought" I saw a thread related to the X100T series where it was suggested a Lensmate X30 rest would fit an EX-1 or 2 and that it would also fit the X100T...was I having a dumb moment?

I've got an X100T due to arrive with me next week and having used the original X100 with a cheap thumb rest I can see the benefit of having a decent version and Lensmate seems to fit the bill. However, buying new from the US is costly...delivery, customs, tax and handling charges make it eye-watering expensive! I may have the option of using Lensmate's X30 version but I can't try before I buy...I don't mind having to mod it a little - any thoughts please?

If this breaches any forum protocols I'll apologise in advance, but anyone who has the X100T version gathering dust in the UK and is looking to move it a new and loving home. EU is not out of the question either - let me know please.

Thanks, David
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Is it possible to stack non uniform or shifted frame files. I want to stack the Milky Way, but some of the files have different crop lines. They're all taken with the same lens, but some of the files are of different areas of the sky. I've never done any stacking, so I'm not really familiar with the process, the benefits or the limitations. Any advice or direction to some helpful resources would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Pete
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Looking to see if anyone else is interested in something like this, and trying to introduce the concept if no one considered it before.

I was a big fan of the Vivitar series 1 35-85mm f/2.8 zoom. I even tried using it quite a bit on Sony mirrorless before I came over to Fuji. The two issues with that lens were the weight, and vari-focus. Assuming no other changes than AF, and composites instead of all metal, both of those issues would be solved with a modern Fuji version (note glass size would not change much given FF image circle at F2.8 equates to ~APC-C image circle F2).

Pros:
-No lens changing for single body 35/85 shooters
-If you had a second body for a 35/85 set up this frees it for something exotic like a 12F2.8 Zeiss, 8mm Samyang Fish, or 50-140 F2.8 on the long end.
-Larger bohek than other zooms
-Greater light gathering for AF in Low Light situations

Cons:
-16-55 F2.8 is already available.
-Not sure what the final size/weight would be
-Likely expensive niche, but I'm hoping it would be a Halo product for pros and appeal to vintage style shooters.

About Me:
I love a 35/85 set up on Fuji, their small size, and very wide APS-C glass. I typically use two E-X2 with 23F1.4/56F1.2 or X100S/56F1.2 Yes I have G.A.S., no I'm not looking to change ;)
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Hello

I have a problem with my new camera. Out if the box.


Example:
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Results are:
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[​IMG]


And yes there's no cap on:
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Video are working..

Any one have a idea?

Firmware update are done.
Tested 2x memory cards.


Thanks
Eirik
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Hi Friends
I am trying to use godox AD200 with my x100f by using godox x1t-n trigger but so far I cannot make it working. I also try other triggers such as yongnuo for manual setting but still unsuccessful!
Can any help me with this? Thank you very much!
cheers
Max
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Pulled this image from my archive to do some b&w editing. It was tough to edit -- balancing the fog (which was really bright) and the rocks in the foreground while still preserving the texture was pretty hard. Wanted to draw you in to the scene. Happy for any comments! Please see my 1x page for a higher quality upload:
lubec cove, storm by Scott Pilla

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Hi folks can anyone work this out for me please. Sd cards in slot 1 and2 (X-T2) camera reports error in card slot 2. Put the error card into slot 1 and the other into slot 2 and there is no error message. The supposed error card when on its own in slot 1 again shows no problem. So why does an error message come up when it works fine in slot1. This happens with both back up and raw/fine options. Cards have been formatted. The supposed error card is a transcend sdhc1 (10). Thanks
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Since the day before yesterday, there's also a new firmware (1.2) for the Metz M400. The update program can be found here:

mecablitz M400: Metz

Improvements:
1. Depending on the camera type the remote master- and slave-mode are supported.
2. AF-beam enhanced.
3. Distance indication for manual zoom setting enhanced.
4. Stand by mode is activated if the FUJIFILM X-T1 is switched off.
5. "REAR" is displayed if the function is set on the camera.

I couldn't test it yet, as I always have to use a friend's Windows PC to install it, but from what I hear on the German Fuji X forum, it also addresses the underexposure issues some users have reported here.
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I've been searching for a mirrorless that I've been happy with for a year, after looking to replace my Samsung NX300. First I tried the Panasonic GX8 and functionally this was a terrific camera, the EVF was perfect, the usability was perfect (please Fuji, can you at least copy the ability to choose focus points on the touchscreen whilst looking through the EVF), the lenses were great, especially loved picking up the 45mm 1.8 for £100. However, the images when playing around in lightroom always had me a little disappointed versus the NX300.

Traded that in. Looked to go back to APS-C. Got an X-Pro 2. Got used to the joystick quickly. Loved the styling. The build quality felt great (although first unit suffered from flickering on the LCD and the second one I was never truly happy with the AF points using the OVF), however after the initial honeymoon period, found I wasnt picking it up as much - just a bit too heavy and large (and i'm not a small guy haha) for taking for just-in-case shots.

So traded it in. Got an X-T20, and admittedly I'm still in the honeymoon period, but I love it. Especially with the 35mm f2 stuck on it, it's great. Yes, the build quality isnt XPro2 quality, most telling for me is the difference in the circular navigation button feeling a lot flimsier, but it's small enough to take out a lot more whilst still taking the same (for me) quality of shot I took with the XPro2. I'm sure if I was a pro there would be more I would miss about the XPro2, but I'm happy with one 32GB card in there, a spare battery in my pocket and either my 18-55 or my 35mm f2 strapped to the front of it.

Here's to lots of great (for me) images.
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X-T1 New Firmware Update Ver.5.20 on May 25, 2017

X-T1 Camera Body Firmware Update Ver.5.20
Firmware for X-T1 | Fujifilm Global

Detail of the update

The firmware update Ver.5.20 from Ver.5.10 incorporates the following issues:

1. BACKUP & RESTORE function is added in USER SETTING for Tether shooting function.
When Tether Shooting Plug-in PRO or Tether Shooting Software HS-V5 is used, this function can save all camera settings as a file and restore the setting from a stored setting. Therefore, you can change the camera settings at a moment and copy them to multiple cameras.
To use this function, one of the PC application software below is required.

<PC application software>
· Tether Shooting Plug-in PRO for Adobe® Photoshop® Lightroom® Ver.1.6(*1)
· Tether Shooting Software HS-V5 for Windows® Ver.1.6 (*2)

*1: It will be checked and posted by Adobe.
* To use the software, you need to purchase Adobe® Photoshop® Lightroom® 6/CC separately.
* To use the software by macOS Sierra, Lightroom 6.7(or newer) or Lightroom CC 2015.7 (or newer) is required.

*2: You need to purchase Tether Shooting Software HS-V5 for Windows® Ver.1.6 and download the updater from the website below to upgrade it to the latest version.



Tethered Shooting Software HS-V5 for Windows® Ver.1.6 Updater for Windows
Tethered Shooting Software HS-V5 for Windows® Ver.1.6 Updater for Windows | Fujifilm Global
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X-T20 New Firmware Update Ver.1.01 on May 25, 2017

X-T20 Camera Body Firmware Update Ver.1.01
http://goo.gl/UEzkEX
(src from fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/x/X-T20/index.html)

Detail of the update

The firmware update Ver.1.01 from Ver.1.00 incorporates the following issues:

1. The phenomenon is fixed that IMAGE SIZE will be displayed when PHOTOMETRY is selected in ADD ITEMS of MY MENU SETTING.
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GFX 50S New Firmware Update Ver.1.10 on May 25, 2017
and first Owner’s Manual and New Features Guide Version 1.10


GFX 50S Camera Body Firmware Update Ver.1.10
GFX 50S Firmware Update | Fujifilm Global

Owner’s Manual Online Ver.1.10 (HTML)
FUJIFILM GFX 50S Owner’s Manual

Owner’s Manual PDF
http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/gfx50s_v11/gfx50s_omw_en_s_f.pdf

New Features Guide PDF Version 1.10
http://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/gfx50s_v11/gfx50s_v11_fug_omw_en_s_f.pdf


Tether shooting is available by wireless communication
Using a Computer for Wireless Tethered Photography
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First, I want to thank everyone for sharing knowledge on this forum and, really, straightening myself out. Formally a Pentax lover, wannabe Sony A7RII owner, and as of today a Fuji X-T2 fanboy. I traded in all of my Pentax gear at Adorama and took the plunge.

I was hesitant to purchase anything other than a full-frame camera as my Pentax K5IIs (with the 43mm 1.9 and the 77mm 1.8) just wasn't delivering, I now believe this to be my own failing and understand why people are in love with these cameras and have no real need for a full-frame. Happy to give more background on my research into the Sony and why I didn't go that route; however, right now I'm just happy with my purchase.

Four hours into walking around with the X-T2 and the 16mm 1.4, I am smitten. Creating images with this camera is just joyful. I wish there was a better way to explain it but I had a great time walking around and just thinking about my next shot. I was even asking random groups of strangers to pose for me on the street... I digress.

Thanks again to this forum for the information and guidance.

Just a quick teaser from tonight...
Edit: Tried the BBCode but it wouldn't work, said I may be doing something inappropriate? Anyway, here is the direct link. https://flic.kr/p/TRBToy
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The Fuji site has ver. 2.10 for the X-T2 posted.

Others can be found on the Fuji site also.
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Switching to X100F from Ricoh GR and X-T20 i've encountered the biggest issue so far - the lack of grip. I mean, i guess it's not bad, but really, what is this shiny stuff?

So i went to the workshop in the middle of the night( Sweden gives me insomnia all the time - too dark in the winter, too bright in the summer) and improvised a bit. Just some kind of rubber sheet plus double-sided scotch tape.

Works surprisingly well, plus now my camera looks a bit like a street warrior's tool and less like a shiny hipster fashion accessory...I guess i just miss ricoh's unpretentious look...

Cheers.

My first post btw, cool place guys!

Timur.

P.S.(shameless plug) I will be uploading X100F photos here, so check it out if you want: Timur Kuyanov (@dhrvee_xjwhudkwhry) • Instagram photos and videos

IMG_20170525_023023.jpg

IMG_20170525_023039.jpg
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Fujifilm X-T1 & Fujinon 18-55mm f2.8-4

DSCF1584-1.jpg
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Hi All- thinking of getting the 20
Had a chance to play with one today at the local dealers display
It was throwing me off while shooting, thought at first it was in manual focus- but discovered that
the shutter button had an extra detent (not sure if detent is the correct word) right before the focus detent- giving the T20 3 detents 1- false detent 2- focus detent 3- shooting detent.
For some time I was on the false detent thinking I was on the focus stage of pressing halfway down on the button, but then when I would give it a little extra finger pressure to compensate it would be to much and went straight to taking the shot (step 2 to 3 was like a hair trigger) and even after a couple of minutes of trying to adjust, I could not- I am used to the silky, positive 2 step transition on my T2 (and all other cameras that Ive owned)
The transition from the false detent to the focus detent was a lot more familiar or normal or standard- as the actual focus detent to taking the shot detent had a very short transition or way to close between the 2 that it was difficult for me to control "hair trigger"
Hopefully all that makes sense- So T20 owners are you experiencing this? or maybe this was just a QC issue?
or maybe some goon messed it up?
I'm not a back button kind of guy- so this button is kind of important to me.. Thanks in advance
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