It is also the only time my fans run on my MBP
Test Results: Lightroom imports 600% slower than the competition (Video)
Just curious, why are there so many X-T10 + 18-55mm lens for sale (especially on the bay)? Most of them were received as a gift by the seller. Just wondering.
Just some from the weekend of Ohiopyle State Park in Pennsylvania.
It was a great way to spend a morning, even with waking up before dawn.
This deal is on again until October 31...
-$250 mail in rebate
-$100 instant rebate (use code PRINTPRO100)
with the bundled 50 sheets of 13x19 paper ($37) this deal nets to $13, and FREE SHIPPING
Canon PRO 100 PIXMA Wireless Professional Inkjet Photo 6228B002
Parts of new look look real fine. Not sure about white text on black.
OK I keep asking if anyone has heard or seen anything about the new hood? Thinking I missed something.
The Fuji X-Pro1 offers image sizes (aspect ratios) of 3:2, 16:9, and 1:1
I hope the X-Pro2 adds a 4/3 option.
I am still not sure on this and I don't want to buy something and then find out I can't change the aperture. Does auto always mean it is only controlled by the origina brand camera? Should I at least always make sure it say Auto/manual? I see so many that say Auto on Ebay and I can't tell from the pics if you can change the aperture or not.
Thanks for any help folks
I use Lightroom cc and Photoshop cc and shoot RAW files. These tools offer custom converson of RAW images to B&W.
My interest is reading from other Adobe users who after experence with X100T choose instead to set their Fuji to shoot B&W jpg.
As this is a photography forum I would have liked to be able to read EXIF data of posted images. Does the upload strip EXIF?
Has anyone done this ? what software do you use to create the 360 degree rotating image ?
I like the eye detect function which I assume is only there to save battery power? However how can that be an advantage as the ED facility switches the EVF and meters on if the camera is carried on its strap?
Are we supposed to carry the camera reversed
I have just uploaded my own avatar file 200x200px. Instead of just one I see a large and a small avatar overlayed. Why is this?
I recently spent the evening with a friend photographing the lunar eclipse we had. This was my favorite shot from the evening and it really showed off the light gathering abilities of the 16mm f1.4.
You can read more here - Blood Moon
I have just found something unexpected at least for me.
Setting the Aperture to A and the shutter to 1/500s I inadvertantly pressed the command wheel. The EVF image zoomed to what I guess is twice lifesized.
What is the purpose of this effect?
I'm an amateur photog, just for fun... etcetc never made a penny, etcetc
I received this msg via flickr.
As per the title, what do you all think?
I'm being scammed (although I can't see how)
I'm being flattered about my "work" (about time )
I should ask for money (although my Flickr is completely open, so they could just download it)
You can probably guess the msg... (I've googled the magazine and it looks real)
My name is ___. I’m an designer at <Magazine> in Seoul.
<Magazine> is a monthly magazine on global brands published in Korean and English.
In our next issue, we're introducing luxury watch brand Rolex.
We want to feature photos of scenes that are related to the watch brand.
We’d like to ask if we could use your photo and publish it in our book
with a copyright referencing to your name.
As our deadline is coming very soon, it would be great to get your permission before Oct 15th.
And if you also have a higher resolution of the image, please send it to my email below.
If you have any question, please don’t hesitate to contact me at *email removed*
Firstly, how can I increase the post take image beyond 1.5 seconds as the only higher time is continous.
Secondly, how can I set a function button to bring up setting iso from auto-iso through the range?
I recently purchased the X-T10 and am blown away by the images I have seen posted on this forum! There is just incredible talent here!
I have to assume most posting are professionals with years of experience and knowledge. I would like to be able to just take good pictures and aspire to be my highest photographer self that I can be!
I am looking for any tips and advice to create the mind blowing images I have seen. I am wondering if most of the impact of these shots were created post? I also seem to be having a hard time getting a real sharp focus. Should I be using a tripod with shutter release, or adjust the shutter speed? Should I be able to handhold and get a focused image?
How do other spectacle wearers work with their cameras?
On my old camera, the eye-cup could be removed, so I could keep my specs on and compose my picture properly. There doesn't seem to be a way of removing the eye-cup on the X-E2, so with my specs on I can't see the full frame and the dioptre adjustment doesn't go far enough for me to see properly without them.
I find I'm composing through a blur, which I can manage, but it isn't ideal...
help me out here
iam sure I had a horizontal green line on my lcd screen when i first got the camera
but it seems to have vanished
Hi I'm new to this site and the x100t.
If I set the camera to manual I get a reference to my exposure in the viewfinder under or over exposure and I can adjust this. If I set it to semi-automatic I no longer see a reference to under or over exposure (exposure bar grayed out) . If the light is to low even at f2 there is no indication that I can see and if I take the shot it's under exposed. On my Cannon is this situation there would be a warning in the viewfinder of this. Am I missing something or do indeed to switch something on?
I have a nice collection of portraits that I took of my students during photography class last year.
I did, however, never have their parents sign a model release and therefore it'd be illegal to use these photographs in public (online, for example).
But what's the situation look like with a personal printed portfolio to show to clients or to a potential employer?
I've been a member here for awhile, since I bought my X20, however have been absent from posting. I've recently bought an X-T1 (coming from a Canon 40D). I've been away from photography as my life became complicated with personal matters. I've always found photography a way to relax and destress from everyday life, as I enjoy landscape, nature, and travel photography.
Thanks hosting a great forums with informative and helpful information!
I just recently bought an X-T,1 and am new to the X-T1 world, previously coming from Canon for my DSLR, and the X20 for my P&S.
I am looking at getting the Markins L-Bracket for the X-T1. I am looking for one of those remotes that is similar to the TC80N3 where there are multiple functions and an LCD screen. The ones that are compatible for the X-T1, have a straight adaptor, and I am looking for a 90 degree adapter for maximum clearance.
I do have a TC80N3, and Canon has an adapter (RA-E3) that converts N3 to E3, however their product description describes the E3 plug as 3.5mm. I am not willing to modify the TC80N3 into a mini plug, and I am not sure if the RA-E3 adapter will work, even if it fits into the X-T1.
I would appreciate if anyone can recommend a wired remote (w/ LCD screen, intervalometer, and timer) that would work with a L-bracket.
Main system is m43. Sacrificed a lens so I could get better use out of the Voigtlander lens. Helicoid adapter is a generic one, brings the minimum focus from 0.7m down to about 0.2. Seems to work fine!
18 shot panorama using a Fuji X100S (2 rows of 9 images) . Stitched with PTGUI, then sharpened and cropped in Photoshop. My friend took me on a long drive from London to Weymouth and back, 12th October 2015.
Hello there. Anyone want to see some portraits I did on Saturday ?
I used XF23 XF35 XF56 primes on XT1 XE1 XE2 respectively
Feedback welcome. I am Semi-Professional level, or sometimes barely Semi-Pro.
Milford Photo :: eBay Store
Just a few things, but they be of interest.
Recently, I've followed several threads, here and elsewhere, about the merits of whether a subject should be rendered in black and white or color?
Herewith, I offer two examples. I just knew this image needed to be in color when I shot it...and then I saw my accompanying black and white JPEG's. Rethinking that thought.
I've tried to explain to friends, the rationale for shooting in black and white, which I do probably 90% of the time. My son said to me recently, "There you go again Dad, using that grey filter". But, color just gets in the way so many times, at least for me. And, then there's the occasion when you see something that just screams color and there's no other way to do that image.
By the way, this image was shot with Fuji's XF 2.8/16-55, the best rendering lens I've ever owned, period.
Please offer the reasons you'd process this image in color, or in black and white?
Thanks for looking!
Hi all, I'm fairly new to the Fuji world and the whole issue of x-trans files and using adobe programs to edit images. My old flow was something along the lines of import from memory card to storage drives using LR3> manage library> basic edits and exports using LR3 OR occasionally use photoshop CS5 for advanced editing or photomerging panoramas. Bottom line is I love managing my library with LR and currently don't do a lot of advanced editing. I'm reading all kinds of articles and reviews about solutions for Fuji users but getting pretty confused about it all. I really need to get a solution happening before my imaging descends into chaos. Can anyone suggest a) what solution I should (or need to) look at if I want to stick with adobe despite its less than desirable compatibility with x-trans files or b) what other system I can use to manage my library and edit RAF's easily?
I appreciate any assistance or direction.
The People's Palace museum in Glasgow throws up many sobering thoughts - from the slave trade which made a few Glaswegians wealthy and financed many great buildings in the city - to the Spanish Civil War.
A Silver Collar for a slave. This is a silver engraved slave collar presumably to show the wealth of 'the master'.