My son and brother in law fishing on Long Lake in Alpena, Michigan just after sunset. The moon was rising just over the lake.
One of my biggest gripes with the X-E2 is the lack of an ISO dial and the existence of an exposure compensation dial. My mind just doesn't think in terms of exposure compensation, I'd much rather have an ISO dial rather than an exposure compensation dial. Any time my exposure compensation has been not at zero was an accident and was only discovered after taking a picture.
I've preordered an X-T2 for a lot of reasons, but a big one being the ISO dial. The exposure compensation dial appears to be the only dial on the top of the X-T2 without a lock. Why was this done? Is there any other way to lock or disable this dial (like maybe via a menu setting)?
Cass Scenic Railroad is a state park in West Virginia that was originally a logging railroad serving a sawmill and paper company. It runs several Shay geared steam locomotives. Great destination for rail fans. X-Pro2 with various lenses (XF16, 18-55, 55-200).
At the Water Tower by Keith Hollister, on Flickr
Backing Up by Keith Hollister, on Flickr
Train Ride! by Keith Hollister, on Flickr
Let the Whistle Blow by Keith Hollister, on Flickr
Shay Convention by Keith Hollister, on Flickr
I am using X-E2 with the XF35mm f2. Both have been updated to the June 9th firmware (4.01 and 1.01). While recording video, I cannot figure out how to make the camera focus consistently.
While in M focusing mode with AF-L configured to ON while pressing, the AF-L button doesn't seem to do anything. The focus area is set in the center and I've put different subjects in that area at different distances. Turning the focus ring seems to do nothing.
While in C focusing mode with the subject already in focus, starting a recording causes a refocus on the subject, it goes out of focus then after a second it comes back in. Panning away from the subject it will refocus, then panning back to the original subject it will not refocus no matter how long I sit and wait (all the way up to the 14-ish minute time limit). AF-L button seems non-functional here as well. Turning the focus ring seems to do nothing.
While in S focusing mode it seems to behave the same as in C mode.
Does the camera lock focus while recording video? Are there more specific reasons for when focus is locked out? Are any other settings locked out while recording video? It seems like aperture and shutter speed are not locked, but I didn't do exhaustive testing. Auto ISO while in video mode seems to work pretty well. Also, is it possible to get focus peaking in the video preview?
Almost set on returning back to Fuji , saw a Fuji xt1 used for a good price .
Any good sites to find used or refurbished lens at good price?
I looked at Fuji refurb site but out of stock currently
Not used my Fuji for a few weeks, and went to use it at the weekend and saw a tiny black dot on the Viewfinder electronic lcd, doesn`t come out on any images or visable using back lcd or optical view finder, so not overly bothered by it but did think its strange how it got there?
Its not a dead pixel either.
Anyone else had this, i would get it sent away and cleaned off but rather not have the fujipulled apart just for that.
I was hoping to purchase a more complete manual for my Xpro 2. I'm debating between Phillips' The Complete Guide to Fujifilm's Xpro2 and Pfirstinger's book. I would really appreciate any advice from those who have read both manuals..
Thanks in advance!
I thought someone might be interested in this either to use or as a novelty.
4GB 8GB 16GB 32GB Camera USB 2.0 Flash Drive Memory Stick YP40
So, I found one for cheap online and ordered. Opened it, was in decent condition, optically some filming, maybe a spot or two of mould (?) but otherwise decent. And I was stoked to find it was the original version (Kiron)... but... I can't get it sharp no matter what. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I can't for the life of me get it going. Maybe there's an issue, but it was from a camera shop that supposedly checks them out and ships 100% mechanically sound. Oh well, off to play some more.
I need a remote to take long exposures (over 30 seconds).
It will only be used to open the shutter then shut it down on demand.
What is the difference between a wireless remote (e.g. Canon RC-6 for $10 in a generic version) and a wired (e.g. Canon RS-60E for $15 or so)?
The wireless seems a lot more convenient and it's cheaper so I must be missing something
And, can you confirm that the Canon remotes will work on the X-T1?
Took a trip to Savannah this past weekend. It was super duper hot! It's not easy spending time taking pics when you have a 17 month old in tow but it can be done! Here are a few pics, all X-T1 and various Fuji lenses.
Florida soft-shell turtle by Neil, on Flickr
Little Egret by Neil, on Flickr
Cathedral of St. John by Neil, on Flickr
St. John's Cathedral by Neil, on Flickr
Turkey Vulture by Neil, on Flickr
X-T1 and 50-140mm
16 shot panorama, 2 rows of 8 images. Fuji x100s, iso 200, f16, 6.5s with ND filter on.
Cactus V6 ii HSS using the Godox Wistro AD-360 off camera & Godox V850 flash in hot shoe of Cactus V6 ii With the X-T10 at 1/4000. The first image is of the Godox Wistro AD-360 taken with the X-T10 @ 1/4000. I used the Cactus V6 ii HSS in hot shoe of the X-T10 , the Godox XT16 in the Cactus V6 hot shoe the Gdox XTR-16 plugged into the AD360 setting for the Cactus V6 ii Camera system is set as Fujifilm, Flash system is Nikon, flash profile is Auto Nikon. Once you've used the 'Learn function all you need to do is press the thumb wheel and it displays Forced HSS. Note thanks to Our fellow member KSG Photography for the setting for the Cactus V6 ii settings. The second image is taken with the Godox V850 in the hot shoe of the Cactus V6 ii using the X-T10 at 1/4000. Both the Ad360 and the V850 have to be set to HSS.
Does anyone have some real life examples showing the type of effect you can achieve using this sort of adapter.https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fotodiox-A...987490&sr=8-4&keywords=shift+adapter+fujifilmhttps://www.amazon.co.uk/Fotodiox-A...987490&sr=8-4&keywords=shift+adapter+fujifilm
We were visiting friends in the Franche-Comté region of France a few weeks ago. I took this one at the village fête as the toddler was running towards something that had obviously caught his eye.... the little beggar was running too quick for me to get perfect manual focus with my 75mm f1.4, but I like the mood of this picture nonetheless.
And no worries, the parents caught up with him soon enough !
What is a mirrorless camera, and is it a viable alternative to the DSLR? In this tutorial we explain the technology that powers them.
I just acquired a Nikkor HC 50/2 and am pretty impressed by it. I started looking at some of the older Nikkor lenses and was thinking about picking up either the Nikkor N 24/2.8 or the Nikkor-O 35/2. I like the build of the older non AI style of lens (although I do have a 28/2 AiS) and both of the lenses above have close focusing so I thought they might be a nice fit for the way I like to work. Both can be found pretty reasonably (just a bit over $100 in nice shape) but I don't see many folks using these older Nikkors on Fuji X bodies and I was wondering if anyone here had any thoughts about them.
I don't really need either lens but I really like the way the HC 50/2 renders and I would gladly get a slightly wider lens with the same sort of look to go with it. I'm leaning toward the 35/2.
We had one of the "Tough Mudder" events in the park at the weekend, 14,000 entrants for it and most for charitable support.
The idea was to complete a run with obstacles to negotiate and rather than a race it was to remain as a team and complete together, some very wet and muddy obstacles.
I managed to get up there for a couple of hours with the XPro2+16-55 and grabbed some images that I am happy with - would have liked more time so next time will plan for the day!
I dropped my X70 on cement while I was walking in to work this morning. The damage was to the right side of the camera. Near the exposure compensation dial. The silver piece has more of a gap now, and there are some indents in the plastic of it. The indents don't bother me, but the gaps seem like they may become an issue in the future.
Has this happened to anyone? Could dust find a way in to the camera through the gap now? Am I overthinking it and shouldn't worry about it? I contacted Fuji Canada to see what it would cost to fix the gap.
Yesterday we noticed the Monarch Butterfly Caterpillars are starting to hatch in the garden.
I don't know which end is the head or the tail.....
Meanwhile the milkweed bugs are having their feast on the pods.
Both shots taken with Nikon 80 - 200 f/2.8 zoom at 200mm, f/11.
MCEX11 extension ring and Metabones adapter.
X-T1 on a tripod.
Care taken to get the color balance right.
Silly question but I was just curious if anyone has found a successful way of attaching the WCL (or TCL) to the X100/s/t using the bayonet mount that the filter and hood adaptor provides. If so, how does the change in length render it unusable? I would consider adding the WCL to my kit if it weren't for the threaded connection.