Hi. I am new to Fuji. Got my X-T2 for a couple of months and recently got a XF16mm F1.4. When shooting at large apertures (f1.4 to f2) in high contrast scenes, chromatic aberration (fringe in purple or pinkish colors) appears. See attached cropped image shot at f1.4. I also notice that when stopping down to around f4, most fringe colors disappear. Is this normal for this lens? Or do most fast lenses suffer from the same issue when shooting high contrast scenes at large apertures?
I read about the performance of good control of chromatic aberration before making the decision of purchase in various reviews. I hope my lens is working properly.
Thanks for any comments!
I am curious to know how many shots most people manage to squeeze out of the Fuji oem NP-W126S in boost mode on their X-T2 without the vertical grip attached?
I have read Fuji's literature of 340 shots in normal mode with the 35 f1.4 and face detect off stats. However, I'm more interested in the real world experience of users.
For those that don't use boost mode, is the 340 an accurate number to expect?
Just as the question asks. I lost my receipt and was wondering if I could use my bank statement to clain my warranty.
I've been recently had a nice 10 days trip to Iran on early Jan 2017. My 10 days trip covering Tehran, Shiraz, Yazd and Esfahan. Plus some nearby town on a short visit. I would say that it is a beautiful country, lovely place, lovely people, lots of photographic opportunity. Beautiful old town, deserted village, ancient heritage site, smiley and welcoming people.
Here are some picture i take just for sharing.
All picture taken with either Fuji X-E1 or Fuji X-M1 (yes, i still use these old guy), coupled with XF18-55, XF 14, and XF 35/1.4. The X-E1 and kit lens is the most used combination.
Thanks.... and hope my picture can't inspire you to travel..
I'm coming from a x100t which paired with a thumbrest, would improve handling tremendously!
Now, I don't have the XP2 yet but I wanted to anticipate all my accessories.
Would you say the x-pro2 needs or gets a lot from a thumbrest at all?
Please share your opinions.
Thanks to forum member ordinaryimages for posting a link to this video on the X100F. I watched it yesterday and it moved me enough to get out and try to do some street shooting. I really liked the way the photographer worked the streets in the video so I thought I would give it a try. I am one of those that tries to get everything just right when I shoot....ETTR, DOF, lowest ISO,verticals vertical and so on. Too much of that stuff can get in the way at times, especially for street work. Thats what I liked about the video. He moved, looked, shot fast, moved on, explored different unusual framing etc. So I thought I would give it a try for a change. So today I set the X100s on manual F8, 1/500 with auto ISO and went out and tried to be loose. It was very freeing and great fun.
Cohoes is one of those northeast USA towns that time has passed. It's seen better days. It was at one time a mill town with one of the biggest mills in the world. It was booming. Not any more.
All with x100s/wcl100
A few more following.
Lost all of my 2016 files I really messed up. I'm so bummed out, some older files.
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So, I spent the weekend shooting with my lovely new XT-2. I used it as a second body alongside my D4 at a wedding, and as main body for an engagement shoot the following morning. Couple things I noticed right off the bat:
Any habits you've notice change when making the switch?
- Previewing my exposure meant usually only taking one or two frames. I'd look through the viewfinder, get exposure looking good and then just wait for the right moment. With my D4, I usually fire off some frames, look at the histogram and adjust if needed. Then fire off a dozen more frames to capture a moment . In tricky lighting this was almost always the case, and I always tell my clients "taking a quick test exposure".
- Because of the difference above, I shot FAR less images. In an hour long shoot, I usually hit around 350-500 frames and select it down to around 80-120. On my engagement shoot I shot a total of 238 frames. 150 of those were the XT-2 which was in my hands for 90% of the shoot. Starring my selects took all of like 7 minutes which totaled 92 images.
- I shot primarily single point (or small group) with single-AF. I'd move the point if I had time, otherwise just get it close and focus-recompose. It worked fine and most images were critically sharp--more so than I usually get with my D4 strictly using center-point for most images.
First post here on the forums! In the process of selling all my Nikon gear and switching to 100% Fujifilm, feeling great about it too!
This is a 3 photo stitch captured with the Fuji XT-1 + 23mm F/2 Lens just this past weekend.
There's a storm brewing and it's headed right for New York. High winds and torrential rain are in the forecast.
With old manual lenses I've always wondered if there was any implications of pulling or pushing focus to the point you want it?
I may be mangling the terminology but by the above I mean moving the area of sharp focus towards the desired focal point vs pulling it from behind the desired focal point. The point being is I'm assuming going from either direction will subtly influence the placing of the depth of field either to be more in front of or behind the focal point?
Iansky posted some great pictures of his lady in a previous thread and he had added the metadata and some text into a frame below the image.
I'm not sure how he did it but I searched for Lightroom Plugins and found this shareware program. I've installed it and read the quickguide and it looks as if it's going to be very useful.
LR/Mogrify 2 - Add Watermarks, Border and Text Annotions to Images Exported by Adobe Lightroom 2
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Any recommendations for a budget friendly off camera flash set (2 flashes and trigger)?
Main use will be for shooting relatively "small stuff" (coins, stamps, jewelry, etc.) but I also would like to think I can use them to lighten up dark(ish) areas during shooting home interiors.
I won't be using this daily so I don't want to break the bank, but portability is key; I won't be looking at studio flashes.
Considering the upgrade. Have no idea what a used x100s with leather case, four batteries, and 13,000 actuations is worth. No marks on body and all orig box etc.
Any ranges / estimates of value ? - will kind of determine the decision to upgrade.
My wife and I were out at the lakes yesterday and I wanted to shoot some images of her.
I took the XT2 + 56mm APD and the Fuji EF-X500 flash unit and we went out to the country for a walk and to do some more daylight flash photos, it was a cold but bright day and the fresh air was perfect to clear the remnants of colds and enjoy a photo session at the same time.
The EF-X500 is superb and automatically operates in high speed sync mode when needed delivering great results.
These were all shot at 200 ISO, manual mode f1.2 and adjusting the shutter to allow the background to be underexposed yet the flash illuminating the subject correctly.
I am happy!
Being Daddy's girl, she wants to do what he does. Handed her my old EOS M and it appears she has taken to it.
Interestingly enough, she, at the age of four is already much more attentive and careful with regard to making photos and handling her gear than her 10 year old brother. Lol.
Considering upgrading from X Pro 1 to either X pro 2 or XT2. Can anyone using the XT2 outdoors in bright sunlight tell me wether or not the adjustable monitor can be clearly seen regardless of its position.
I know the cameras are just announced, but can folks help me with the benefits/drawbacks of going with either:
Currently have an XT-1 and generally like it but the biggest drawback has been Autofocus, speed/accuracy.
I like the idea of the 100F form factor, and it now uses the same batteries as the XT-X series cameras, plus USB charging.
On the side of the XT-20 i like the updated AF and image processing over the XT-1 and the fact i can reuse all my existing lenses (23 1.4, 18-135, 100-400) as well as pay for a new lens for the same price as the X100F.
Anyone else in the same boat but further along?
Anybody use the 56mm with extension tubes? How are the results?
My thumb grip kept coming off so I used double stick tape. Fell off again and I lost it. Is there anyway to get a replacement?
So I wrote to Nissin about the availability of HSS on the i60A. Hard to parse the translation but it looks like they are working on it and it is coming soon. Anyway, this is the response:
Thank you for your purchase of Nissin Flash.
The wireless TTL, Manual & zoom controls are fully compatible in Fujifilm versions i60A & Air 1 commander, except for the High Speed Sync mode. The exclusion of the High Speed Sync function are stated on the Product packaging, official product webpage, print catalog and other media outlets.
The Nissin i60A, Air 1, Di700A and i40’s hardwares are capable to do High speed sync, and this function is available on the Canon, Nikon, Micro Four Thirds and Sony versions now, except for Fujifilm version due to its relatively new flash system.
Although Fujifilm’s flash high speed sync function just launched recently. Nissin engineers are developing this function, and making it available to Nissin Flash for Fujifilm cameras now. This function may soon be available, but user may need to bring in the flash to Nissin service centre for this function upgrade.
Welcome to contact us again in the future.
Customer Service Specialist / Global Sales and Marketing
Hi there, here's some news many have been waiting for:
I noticed that when setting WB to daylight in X-T2 Lightroom shows 4915 F in color balance when opening RAW picture as shot. When setting the color balance in Lightroom to daylight it uses 5500 F. Do Fujifilm generally set a lower color temperature than Lightroom.
My finger has hovered over the 'pre order now' button on at least three occasions over the weekend and each time I didn't press it. I've come to the conclusion that I'll stick with my 'T', at least for the time being. There are things I really think I'd like about the 'F', direct access focus selector, faster focusing and 24mp. Then I thought, I've not really had a problem with the focusing on the 'T' and in truth rarely crop images, so it kinda seems a lot of money to pay for a joystick! Couple that with the fact I have my 'T' all set up, Lensmate thumb grip, JB Design half case, not to mention four NP-95 batteries, swapping just doesn't make sense for me. Yes the 'F' is a better camera than the 'T', just not that much better.
Also, I keep looking at the Leica M10.................. God help me!
I put my 35mm f2 WR on my X-T1 and went out for a stroll during a snowstorm last week. While I was out, I came across this lovely Malamute on the beach enjoying the weather
The new GFX 50s is announced with a removable 3.69m-Dot OLED EVF. Perhaps too early to judge the actual performance, but we will find out soon enough.
I have long suggested viewfinder resolution remains yet a frontier in digital mirrorless photography. The 2.4 mdot OLED EVF is a technology that helped make mirrorless what it is today, but it is no where near vision perfect, especially for those with exceptional vision acuity. Not all that long ago Leica incorporated a 4.4m-Dot unit in their large, expensive SL601. With this new 3.69mdot near vision perfect EVF from Fujifilm, it is safe to say near vision perfect OLED technology may be moving beyond early days.
Of course, there have always been blocks. The first is simply the physical design of such a device. The second, equally important road block is production cost. Perhaps a third issue looms in heat and/or power consumption for smaller APS-C formats. These questions have answers, should someone ask the right persons.
Putting aside technical performance and such issues as heat, power or packaging requirements, obviously the question of the moment is unit cost. A $1800 camera body is not a $7000+ camera body and for the moment herein may lie the tale. What we can hope is at some point production technology, that is the actual cost of making "4k" high resolution OLED, drops sufficiently to consider their incorporation in, may I blush, a new X-E3.
Let me put it this way: I know what I want for Christmas 2017.
So, I've had Luminar for a while now but only started to play with it a bit. Then I got a new 90mm F2.0 and thought to go for a stroll at Fort Whyte Alive to take it some shots. In the lobby area was this lone flowering tree, beautiful flowers in the middle of our winter (indoors ).
So, just tinkering but I can certainly see why this lens is so well thought of, sharp, close focus, and smooooth bokeh. Luminar has potential too that I will need to further investigate. The UI and general feel is somewhat rudimentary or simplistic, but it seems to have some very capable features.
Hello, fellow photographers!
This is my very first posting here on the Fujix. It's so exciting to see such an active forum/support for our beloved Fujis!!
Question...do any of you have an original (not the "long" EC-XT L version) circular eye cup for the X-T1 available? I thought I'd ask here before gove Fuji a call. Thanks!
Now that the X100F is out, I wonder if any of these issues have been addressed in the new design?
- Manual focus ring fights my hand when I twist it. Not evenly, but like there's sticky stuff inside. It did this brand new. It doesn't seem to affect AF. I have no idea why this is, my X100S did the same thing.
- While you can map "Preview Pic. Effect" to a Fn button (but not in the Q menu) there is no fast way to turn on and off "Preview Exp. in Manual Mode" which is very important if you're primarily a manual shooter who also occasionally uses flash! (Yes, "use the OVF," yeah but that's not the same). You need to memorize "Blue wrench menu #2 -> Screen Setup -> Preview Exp. in Manual Mode" -- yes, it's really buried all the way down in there. No way to assign to either "Q" or "Fn." (XPro2 got this one right, it can be either a button or in "My Menu." No idea why not in "Q" -- who decides which features go where, anyway?)
- The front of my Power Switch has worn smooth. It's easy to flick the camera "on" but it takes a more deliberate effort to turn it "off." Frustrating for a camera well-known to chew through batteries.
If you think these problems are pretty small, you're right. The T is still a great camera even without Acros/23MP/NP126.
For about a week now my x-pro2 is having autofocus issues. I get about 60% of pictures out of focus and less in focus using face detection. Before you blame me or a setting I've had the camera since launch and it's been perfect. I've tried every different autofocus setting/configuration. Tried 2 different lens. I added 1 example just to show you what I mean. Now I could have gotten this picture in focus if I refocused again and again till I could see it was in focus. Is there some way to recalibrate or something?