I can't see to find in the menu how to show where the focus point is. No, not choosing the focus point, but after you've chosen it, I like the white box that it leave to show you where your focus point is.

See how you can see where the focus point is on the EX2? When I rented the xt10 the last person had this option "on" so I didn't have to set myself. I have been through the manual several times and tried doing searches online, but I can't figure it out.

Photos for reference (Yes and dig on that cool strap. The EX2 has my dad's original "hippie strap". What next? Bell bottoms and Frye boots? I think not.)

focus point xt10 and ex21.jpg
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Happy and bubbly trio performers from a South African gospel group

Street trio.jpg
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I'm looking for some advice if anyone can provide it. I may be being made redundant in early 2016 and as part of the package I'll be offered a re-training financial sum 'incentive' of approximately £3000. I'd like to use this offer and think I'd like to do some photography course - it would need to be commercial as I'd need an invoice to claim back the cost. I'd primarily be interested in landscape photography and I would try studio but I'm not interested in doing wedding type photography. Can anyone recommend any UK based courses - ideally in Scotland or with accommodation included ? I'm not looking to be a commercial photographer(whisper it) but I really don't want to turn down this offer as part of a redundancy package. Any advice would be gratefully appreciated.
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So my beloved xe1 + 23mm + 18-55mm got stolen :(

So I have to start again with Fuji and am having trouble deciding what to get

I pretty much only take photos when traveling or going somewhere - its very rare I do planned photography

I pretty much only used the 23mm which I loved but did plan on getting the 14mm

I am thinking of getting the x100t which would probably suite my needs but I'm worried I'd miss out if I ever wanted to take a landscape shot or the odd portrait. Then again if I had a smaller camera (23mm on my xe1 made it big;) I'd probably take the x100t everywhere with me

So the other option is xt10 or xe2 and but the 23mm or 27mm.

Any thoughts? Maybe someone was in a similar predicament?

Decisions decisions!
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With summer just around the corner and open gardens starting as well as roses coming into bloom, I thought I'd test the X-T1 in full sun. You can't always pick the days you go shooting flowers, so time to practice. :)





Thanks for looking...
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Hey guys, I'm decorating my new home and I'm debating if I want to print this or not, I think it would make people pause and try to figure it out but I don't know if their think will end with "ahhhhh:)" or "oh:|" let me know what you think!

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I purchased the Mac book pro in April and I am not impressed (16GB). I may have a lemon or maybe they are all problematic. I'm hoping for some from feedback from fellow MacPro users. The problem is that my battery drains VERY quickly and the fan runs very loudly. I brought it to the Apple store today and they said that Photoshop and Lightroom are heavy duty programs and that is why my fan is working so hard and my battery runs out so quickly (in addition to having too many background programs running).

I also complained about the slow internet which they said is partly due to my modem (which I agree with) and partly to do with the websites I visit which are high graphic sites (photography related).

I am just awestruck. The reason I bought this computer was because I was told it is highly regarded by photographers. I am a hobbyist (using RAW) and my computer can't handle it. It seems ridiculous to me. How are professionals using this computer? I'm hoping to hear that others do not have these problems so that I can go back with confidence and insist that there is something wrong with my computer.
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I love this lens, but I noticed that it is missing focus quite a bit lately. Regardless of using auto focus it stays blurry unless I keep trying a few times. Does this lens have a issues with the peripheral focus points? Could it be the situation? I was shooting just before sunset. The firmware is current. Any tips or comments?
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This thin film iridescence on the surface of a stream's edge is caused by the bacterium leptothrix discophora
as it binges on an overabundance of iron in the water. This was seen in a stream above a waterfall at a local State Park today.

XPro1 and XF55-200mm

Thanks for looking,
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Can anyone tell me what kind of plant this is? I photographed this and love the design of the plant against the while wall.

Plant verticle Cedar Hills 2015.jpg
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Something to generate opinion, the original was taken in color with the performers face Orange, but I prefer the image in mono.

Street Scarey.jpg
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Old but not obsolete....
XF -50-140

Ouwehands Zoo (Netherlands)

All pictures are just to check it out. And that I had not properly assessed. I think it's a special picture,

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I took this image using a Fuji X-E1 and the Zeiss Distagon 21mm f/2.8 ZF.2 lens. I have had very good success using this lens and like the rendering it gives.

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I'm careful with lens changes and try to minimise the frequency. So far I've needed only the rocket blower to deal with sensor dust. Seeing some tell-tale blobs on a contrasty picture of the sky recently, I decided to give it a few puffs.... To no avail... Still visible...

So I armed myself with swabs, pec pads, lint free surgical cotton buds and isopropyl alcohol. I vacuumed, dusted and practically fumigated the work room, washed hands and donned clean clothes.

Gently at first, I went to work, tentatively sweeping at the glass as if it were a fragile precious jewel, changing swabs at the hint of cross contamination. I put the lens back on. One dust spot was still visible. As before, right in the middle of the sky. I repeated the process....

.... and I have since repeated the process three times over the last fortnight, increasing the vigorousness of my attack on this last stubborn speck at each attempt. But I cannot remove it. The word dust does not do it justice.

I should be happy by now; I overcame my trepidation and practiced a new skill. I didn't leave any streaks and I made an improvement. I discovered that the sensor is pretty robust. Sufficiently tough to resist the ham-fisted attempt of this incompetent to scrub it clean.

But I'm not happy. My sensor is still dirty. I know it is only visible at small apertures and higher contrast. I know that even if I can spotlessly clean it, more dust will inevitably appear. But I don't want to spot heal every stopped down landscape picture I take for the rest of the life of the camera.

My wife says I have a touch of OCD and thinks I'm on the spectrum. So should I send it in to Fuji or save the money for some cognitive behavioural therapy? Just as in Monty Python's "I've got a bit of a dirty fork" sketch, I'm afraid that this small speck has taken on much greater proportions.

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Since I'm already a forum member I thought I would post this here.
I've been shooting film lately with my Konica Hexar which is the same size and has a similar lens to my X100T (similar as in 35mm and f2). It's easy to switch around so I take them both in my bag.

Anyways my question or dilemma: when I develop my film I have a couple of options:
- developing & proofing prints (7,5x11cm) for €8.5
- developing & contact sheet for €7.5
- developing & scan @ 1024x1600 px JPEG for €8.5
- developing & scan @ 2000x3000 px JPEG for €10.5
- developing & scan @ 2000x3000 px TIFF for €12.5

or I could do this:
- only developing for €3.5 a roll and buy my own scanner (let's say a epson V800 with goes for €569 here)
Seeing that an average scan would cost me €7 a roll I would need to scan 81 rolls to earn it back :)

For those who are still shooting film, what do you prefer and why? Do you get your film scanned?
Up until now I always chose proofing prints but It woud be nice to have a digital scan to work with.
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A few months back Ebay was hit by some fraudulent sellers listing Olympus cameras for ridiculous prices. The seller had actually been hijacked but the paid funds were directed to another account. Many of the listings looked like this one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fujifilm-X-T10-Silver-Mirrorless-Digital-Camera-Kit-with-XF-18-55mm-Lens-/191711554445?hash=item2ca2e62b8d#ht_154wt_900

Note the seller has only 16 feedbacks, with none in the last few months and the two feedbacks that you can read are both from the same buyer. In addition the item can only be purchased using the Buy it Now feature. I have seen the same nearly identical listing with two different buyers names. Just thought I would give potential buyers a heads up to be suspicious of and careful about such listings.
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As the title says. Also ordered a 14mm lens which I don't have yet. Another 6 days, Ughhh.

Anyway, was wondering if someone would be able to answer a question for me. Having received it, I obviously was checking all the buttons and dials etc for functionality. All appears good, with one exception.

The exposure compensation dial on power up shows -2. Naturally aperture shows as F0 as I don't have a lens. I set in an auto mode and moving the dial in no way changes from -2. My hunch is its due to the fact there's no lens attached.

Does anyone have an xe1 without a lens on that would be able to confirm if that's the case.

Cant wait to get the lens to play with my toy
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After I did buy some time ago the X-T1 love the quality that it did give to me. I came from canon 5DMKII.
I love the lenses, primes most.
While I was in Iceland, I did continue to take pictures at storm level with heavy rain. Even the Iceland sheep's searched for shelter just me did not. Result was the camera was to wet and did refuse to work for the rest of the day.
I did want to buy an backup for my X-T1 and looked at the X-E[12] and ended up with an X-Pro1 which I do love. Since Iceland my X-T1 went to repair because i did squeeze it with the roof of my convertible (twice).
It came back all fine just something with the sensor went wrong and it had uncountable hot pixels. Back to repair... I cant just have one camera so I want to have an backup of the backup it shall be the X-M1

The X-M1 fits my hands comfortable, more as I did think of, as the X-E1/2 did not want to fit.
As soon the X-T1 returns my wife will confiscate the X-M1 from me.

The X-M1 is an kind of Hybrid product with the X-Trans series 1 sensor and the EXR Processor Series 2.
The Buffers are about the same size as the X-Pro1 but write speed of the SD card is about twice as fast as the X-Pro1.
The LCD display is nice. In bright sunlight I do see nothing but on the other side I do avoid bright sunlight and it no problem for me. I am an VF user and I keep taking the X-M1 to my eye and get confused. Definitely my fault.
I do love the output of this little camera it has the X-Trans I sensor and the pictures are comparable to the X-Pro1. I am not sure if the processing is the same thought the EXR II Processor.
About the AF there is an difference the AF on the X-Pro1 is faster and more reliable as of the X-M1. I think there is an firmware update missing. There are unnecessary hunting with not so bright light but of an sudden it can focus in almost complete darkness.
Since it's an Hybrid product I don't hope for an final firmware update to get it to the level of the X-Pro1 or X-T1 in CDAF mode.
Since it does focus nice in normal light it's perfectly fine.
I have the brown variant and it look so nice ! I love how it looks with the XF16mm lens.

So cheers I have now my 3rd Fuji camera and people just declare me as insane.

by Andre Schwaller, on Flickr
by Andre Schwaller, on Flickr
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Street performer

The Eyes have it.jpg
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So I've just noticed this issue recently as I've been shooting (trying to shoot, anyway) a lot of astrophotography and things in the dark. When turning off the camera, the red light for the eye sensor stays lit. I have to remove the battery to dim it out, reinsert it and everything is back to normal. I'm not sure if this has been happening for months or just the past few times I've been out though.

Has anyone else experienced this?
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Is there any one could explain to me how to view pictures from XT-1 (SD Card inside). I tried to view but I don't know how to start with. Thanks ahead.
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When I took the series of the police brass band, I did not notice the mirror image in the instruments at first. Unfortunately I recognized only during raw conversion that I had missed the most interesting feats ONCE AGAIN...

X-E2, Soligor 105, f2.8



What an opportunity missed, a brass band playing in the bright sun with spectacular reflections and highlights on the polished instruments. Next time....
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X-E2, Revuenon 55, f1.2


And with Rokkor 135, f2.8

Thanks for looking
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hi everyone

i was wondering if someone tried the new software AFFINITY (only for mac users !) to proceed xtrans raws compared to lightroom ?
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Hi All

First post on here. I recently did a shoot with a friend in a local cemetery. The theme was a grieving widow. All shot with X-T1, 56mm, 35mm and 16mm. CC welcome.






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found this here at Addis Abeba Airport recently, thought I'd share it.

X-E2, Ultron 50, f1.8

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So I sold the 56mm because the 32zeiss gets much more use...Thinking about the 16-55 or the 90mm mostly for use with children indoors/outdoors, unfortunately most primes don't have the the motor speed to keep up with the autofocus... What do you suggest 16-55 or the 90. Ps, I considered the 50-140 but the size is an overkill...
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I have an LG G4 phone. I tried linking it to my X-100T but the camera cannot find it even although the phone is set to discoverable.

Anyone got an idea how to fix it?

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So I received my adaptor today. It's pretty well constructed, and isn't hidious or super noticeable when combined with lens and camera. As to using the Nikon lens with the Fuji X-e1, it was wonderful. The focusing was a little tricky, but I managed by taking my time rather than trying to snap away. On the body, the lens is noticeably the heavy point of the kit, you'll find your camera leaning downwards, but hey it's not bad at all! After all these old Nikkors are built like tanks! Anyways, image quality is great when you get to the sweet spot of the lens, and that's the thing about these lenses, when used properly they can give off a wonderful 'Nikon' feeling to your shots. After all I think these lenses are what made Nikon what it is. Here are some of the "eh" test shots from today, I'm still working on the few good ones!






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Howdy, all!

So there's something which often comes up on this forum, and just as often garners vibrant discussion and passionate opinions, yet always seems to end with a variation on, "what do you think would work best for YOU??"

Lens suggestions. Whether it's "which lens should I buy", or "which lens should I bring along", or "which lens works best for [insert conditions, settings or subjects] there ALWAYS seems to be folks chiming in.

So, here's a variation of that. I'm not going to ask which lens I should use in a certain setting, or which TWO should I bring along, I am curious to hear which lenses people use for THEIR favorite settings.

Do you have a favorite lens for a favorite subject or setting? Or just a general fave? Why is it your favorite? If you were to leave the house, and could only bring ONE LENS, or ok how about TWO LENSES with you, what would you bring? What about THREE lenses? And, why those choices? Do you have a "wish list" for future lens acquisitions? What's on it? And, for the love of all creatures great and small... why?!?!

I have my own stuff to share here, but I figured it'd be nice to hear from you guys first...
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Hello all,

I just picked up an X-T1 over the weekend. I upgraded from firmware 3.0 to 4.0 and noticed that CH and CL burst modes fire off 2 frames with a brief click. Is something wrong with the camera, has this happened to anyone else? This did not occur in firmware 3.0.

One more thing, in firmware 3.0 when i turned the LCD display information off it still showed the focus square which I preferred. In 4.0 the focus square no longer displays. Is there anyway to turn it back on?
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image.jpeg View attachment 65978 Wednesday 7th October we were treated to an amazing display. These are SOOC jpgs taken at Colbost Jetty, Isle Of Skye.
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i decided it is time for a new Mac for processing photos and a bit of video. My dilemma is whether to get another dual core Mini or a quad core iMac, both with 16 GB of ram. Anyone have thoughts on a dual or quad core for post processing raw file?

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