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Hi, all. I'm a relatively inexperienced hobby photographer and have just dipped my toe into the Fuji waters for the first time with a s/h XT-10 and (new) 35m f1.4 on the front. I've been using Olympus kit previously (E-30, with various primes and a few decent Zuiko zooms) but saw a demo of Fuji kit by British photographer Chris Upton, and was really taken by his work on the last working coal mine in Nottinghamshire. Now I'm giving Fuji a go with a view to moving over completely if I like it. I have to say I love the the look and feel of the XT-10 so far and can already feel myself drawn to an XT-2 at some point - I just hope my wife doesn't read this forum..!

Anyway, not sure I'll have much to offer in the company of so many experts on here but it'll be really useful picking up tips from others.
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IMG_1288.JPG Taken with xe2s and 35mm f2 and a bit of processing
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Hey dudes! I was doing some behind the scenes video for a short film I'm currently working on, and decided to put the continuous focus to the test during the down times - its a rough edit, but thought I'd share so you can see how the CF works.

Shot on the 18-55, 1920x1080 29.97 fps!
Most of it is hand held as well so we good idea of how the OIS works!

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X-T1 and 18-135, photographed from the upper deck of the Akademik Ioffe in Antarctica. Camera and lens functioned perfectly even in this harsh climate.



DSCF5388---e--.jpg
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As a new Fuji XE2 owner, I've just discovered an unexpected limitation. Apparently, I cannot auto-bracket 3 exposures greater than -1 and +1 stops from the normal exposure?

I believe this limitaion could easily be removed with a firmware update. What is the best way to contact Fuji to request wider auto bracketing?

I was really hoping to do some HDR shooting inside churches and historic buildings where the interiors are dim, and window light/stained glass is very bright.

My experience with combining 3 bracketed exposures for HDR indicates that plus and minus 2 stops - or more - is often required to capture the tonal range of some scenes.

Yes, I've read about using the Exposure Compensation dial to take additional exposures, but I will not have a tripod, and it's difficult to hold the camera in a fixed position while rotating the dial. Normally, I can get ok results in dim light by shoving the camera, or my body, against a wall, or column, or some other fixed object while the camera fires 3 shots. My HDR software can usually align these handheld shots - but if I let go with one hand to rotate the EC dial, that's going to add a lot more variation into the alignment process.

I just tested two sets of 3 JPGs, both sets bracketed at +/- 1 stop; changing the Exposure Compensation dial inbetween sets. It worked, but what a hassle.

Next I tried a set of 3 Fuji RAF files, bracketed at +/- 1 stop. I tuned the RAFs in Lightroom with the goal of preserving highlights, then exported them as 16-bit TIFFs for merging in Photomatix. Less work in shooting, but a bit more in post. Good results, though.

Here is the normal exposure RAF, converted to JPG without modifications for this post:
4260_hdr_test_normal-0083.jpg

And here is the result of merging the 3 fine-tuned RAFs in PhotoMatix:
4260_hdr_test-0083-tonemapped.jpg

Are there any other solutions?
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I've had a Zeiss Contax (C/Y mount) 100mm f/2 for over a year now. I'm always nervous that I will damage it, so I don't take it out that often, but when I do, I am blown away by the images it produces. The classic "Zeiss" 3D look always makes me smile!

Images from a walk over the Manhattan Bridge, down through South Street Seaport, around Lower Manhattan, up through Battery park, and then back over the Manhattan Bridge.

All Sony A7ii, all wide open at f/2. The 100/2 is sharp as a tack at f/2 across the rame with no "glow", and extremely smooth bokeh "for a Zeiss". Truly an amazing lens.

Apparently, the Manhattan Bridge needs to be locked up to prevent theft.
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China Town Laundry Day. From Manhattan Bridge.
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Brooklyn Bridge as seen through Tulips. South St. Seaport.
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Pier 17 is nearly complete. It was damaged in Superstorm Sandy and has been completely rebuilt.
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South St. Vespa.
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I came across this interesting DoF Simulator Comparison tool that I found useful to get a sense of DoF specifically, how the background bokeh and compression would be affected by using different focal lengths.

I am not sure how accurate it is, probably not much, but it does provide some basic idea, especially when comparing two different lenses. I used it to decide which lens would I like to get first, FD 135 f2 or Nikkor ED 180mm 2.8. ( FD 135 f2 is on the way, Nikkor ED will be next)

Have fun: DOF simulator - Camera depth of field calculator with visual background blur and bokeh simulation.

Screen Shot 2017-04-28 at 6.45.52 PM.jpg

ps: I am not affiliated to the maker of this tool in any way.
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One concern I had about buying the Fujifilm XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 R LM OIS was it's closeup capability. Specifications list the maximum magnification as "0.15X" but I couldn't quite imagine just how close that would get me.

I've never owned a dedicated macro lens, and I'm not going to get one anytime soon because right now I'm trying to keep my kit as light as possible. In the past I've always used those basic "close up filters" - the ones that come in sets of three: +1, +2, and +3 diopter.

The 58mm filter diameter of the Fuji 18-55mm kit zoom is a new size for me, so I needed a new closeup filter/lens. This time I got the "DHG Marumi Achromat Macro 330" which provides +3 diopter. The "Achromat" design consists of 2 glass lenses, rather than the basic single lens found in most screw-on magnifiers. The Achromat design makes the lens quite a bit thicker (and heavier) than the single-lens designs, but should offer much better performance, especially at the edges. [Note: Marumi also makes a less expensive, single-lens +3 magnifer which is not an 'Achromat' - so beware when buying.]

I've not used it much yet, but preliminary results below. None are cropped and all are at 55mm, manually focused, at the minimum distance.

This is as close as I can get with the kit zoom at 55mm:
iris-purple-0049.jpg

Adding the Marumi Achromat Macro 330 +3 lens (sorry, I changed orientation. Also, my focus point was a bit off, so don't blame the lens on the soft forground):
iris-purple-0052.jpg

Another, at maximum magnification with the +3 Marumi:
strawberry-0067.jpg
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I just got a new X-E2S and wanted to assign a new role to the Fn 1 - AE button, as explained on page 45 of the manual. I changed it so that when I push this button, I get the EVF/LCD SETTING. It changed the assignment OK, but when I press the Fn1 button, it only shows me what the setting is, it doesn't get me to a place where I can change it. I have the latest firmware.
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Love my X100T.

colgate.jpg
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My sister and brother-in-law recently spent 6 days in Cuba. He shot with two x-e2s mounted with a 16mm 1.4 and an 18-55. He documented the streets of Havana. He put together a Blurb book of his 6 days. I think its really fine work. You can view the book here. You can click on the pages to go to the next page. Click the diagonal arrows to enlarge the view. He moved to the Fuji cameras about 6 months ago.
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Hi guys! I'm using vintage lenses on my Fuji X-E2 with the updated software. I like the feature on the command dial where you can push it in to zoom in 4x to help focus correctly.

I would like to move that function to one of the other buttons on the camera to make it more convenient to use. Any ideas if I can do this somehow?

Thanks for the help!

- Harin
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IMG_1273.JPG Taken with xe2s and 35mm f2
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Hello,

For those of you who like street photography, you might enjoy the work of Fred Herzog. Yesterday, I took in an exhibit of his work at Equinox Gallery in Vancouver. This exhibit is of selections from his latest book Modern Color. I've see his work on line before, but to see a room full of these beautiful pigment prints was awesome.

He was mostly active in the 1950's, 60's and 70's, shooting Kodachrome transparencies. This would have made display of his work as an artist difficult, so it is only in recent years that that he has achieved public acclaim.

Equinox Gallery Vancouver - Works by Fred Herzog

Herzog is still alive and well, living here in Vancouver.

JRJ
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My granddaughter
Taken with xe2s and 35mm f2 IMG_1243.JPG
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Few days ago I went to take some portraits with the X-T2 and XF 50mm WR at a studio with strobes.
I rarely shoot this way but I know that in order to see on the EVF, you have to turn off Preview Pic Effect mode.
However there were times that the X-T2 was struggling to focus, partly because it was slightly dark (low key shots) but even in high key, it was struggling a bit too.
Settings on the camera was ISO 200-400, f/5.6-8 at 1/250 with 2 strobes illuminating the model.
I also tried turning on AF Illuminator and discovered that it wouldn't worke unless the lens was wide open, f/2 with the XF 50mm WR.
If it was stepped down the AF Illuminator wouldn't work. Is this normal?
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Hey everyone!

I'm a Canon shooter looking to get into a smaller system. I currently shoot with a 7D, Canon 70-200 2.8 mkii IS, Sigma 24-70 2.8, and a Tamron 17-35. Now, although I love the speed of my 7D and 70-200 combo, I can't get over the weight. My fiance and I had a child over a year ago, and the camera has been left at home more and more in favor of my iPhone.

So, I'm looking at getting into a lighter system. I used to be a big fan of getting an older generation body to save some money, but this time around I want to go with the latest and greatest. That leads me to looking for an X-T2 and 18-55 combo. I shoot a wide range of stuff from my family, to drifting/motorsport, to landscape and a dabble in astro stuff. After looking at reviews/specs I've come to the conclusion that the X-T2 would be a great all arounder for me. Only thing left to do is sell off some of my kit to finance the X-T2 purchase.

I'm excited to be getting into different system and having a more travel friendly setup!
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Alas, the locking button on the shutter speed dial on my X-Pro2 stopped working and would no longer operate as intended, I had to hold it down to release the dial from "A" and then it would move freely throughout the range and lock again in "A".

This meant that it had to go back to Fuji UK, registered the repair / heard nothing, made a phone call and had an apology and promise to send out return paperwork / box etc which they did.

I dispatched that camera last week as requested with proof of purchase etc and received it back today apparently with a replacement top cover - opened the box and the top cover was the original ( still had the tape over the eyepiece adjustment wheel) and the problem had not been resolved, it looks like they just put it back in the box and returned it untouched!!!!!!!!!

Made a phone call and got an apology (of sorts) and I now have to return it again for hopefully a proper repair this time!

I hope this is not an omen as a colleague of mine had his 100-400 back to Fuji UK 3 times and in the end got a refund and has now changed brands - I certainly do not want to do that but do expect at least an attempt to fix a problem before sending the camera back.

Needless to say I will be without the camera for another period of time and anxious about the quality of service I receive this time round.

I did send an email to the General Manager of Fuji UK and to my delight have received a personal email back from him with a promise to look into it and get back to me today - now that is good service and I look forward to a satisfactory solution.

Watch this space for the update.
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My thumb rest came off my beloved X-T10 - can't find it anywhere. Mixed feelings about getting it repaired at fuji as it would cost £130 but I would get another 1 year guarantee (its currently not under warranty).

Instead I called fuji and asked if I could just have a new rubber thing to stick back on myself and they are sending me one in the post - no cost. Thank you fuji for a most sensible response.
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This is a very unscientific test, but it gave me some positive answers though. None of the filters tested gave any colour cast or vigneting, not even when stacked. I'm a happy camper.

no-filter.jpg

pola.jpg

nd.jpg

nd+pola.jpg
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HI Everyone.

I was a member here for a bit, but forgot to add to the new member intro section.

I am a father of 2 boys, one 18.9 and in university and a 10 year old with autism. We love to travel, and my wife, and youngest do as much as we can.

I am starting to take the Fuji photography thing seriously now, I tried many other brands of cameras including canon, sony, Olympus and pentax, buying into their systems each time. My first "real" camera was a Fuji 9100 prosumer. I moved on from that to the above listed....I missed the "Fuji POP" that you can only get with Fuji camera sensors. I purchased an X-S1 and X10 a couple of years ago, and for the most part they sat in my camera bag. Only because I was busy with other things in our lives. This year, I am starting a new business, and the weekends are going to be more downtime and relaxing. I am going to be taking my cameras ALOT more on travels with my family and taking ALOT more photos! It has bit me again this past couple of months. We do a lot of camping, traveling to different places and adventure driving in the back country here.

I am going to be documenting that more. And getting our blog back up and running. Something I have a big interest in.

Stay tuned in for updates!

Steve
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I've probably missed it somewhere along the line, but I have installed the new firmware and would like to know if there is a full list somewhere that gives all of the changes and new introductions?

I've seen the copyright page as an obvious example - but ... what else exactly?
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HI all, just purchased a mint X-T2 with 18-55 F2.8-4 and Grip. It's my second time with the X-T2, with me having purchased one last year but then sending it back for refund shortly afterwards, as I had buyers remorse (or is that guilt) as I had way too much equipment as it was. However I since lightened my equipment considerably (mainly getting rid of all my Nikon FF gear - D810, D750 and about 6 lenses). So I thought i'd give it another go alongside my Olympus M43 gear.

Having persevered for a few days with the X-T2's idiosyncrasies (especially after being a Nikon user for 35 or more years), I'm starting to really warm to it, and am liking what I'm seeing come off my printer. I don't plan on building a huge system around it (famous last words), but have already found that just having one lens (the 18-55), severely limits my options. I'm therefore looking for some advice. My thinking for vacations and general shooting, is getting focal lengths at least around the 15-200mm range (in 35mm terms) or thereabouts. I'm therefore considering one of two lens line-ups and would appreciate peoples comments who have them. Note I'm not a massive prime sort of guy (although I might add a 35 or 50mm equivalent in the future), so am just for the time being considering these zoom packages.

Option 1
Keep the 18-55 F2.8-4 and add the Fujifilm 55-200mm f3.5-4.8 R LM OIS and the Fujifilm 10-24mm f4 R OIS XF - this would give me a 15-300mm equivalent.

Option 2

Sell the 18-55 F2.8-4 and instead, purchase the Fujifilm 18-135mm f3.5-5.6 WR LM R OIS, and compliment it with the Fujifilm 10-24mm f4 R OIS XF - this would give me a 15-205mm equivalent in a simpler two lens package (albeit the 18-135 would be a slower aperture lens).

Anyone have any thoughts on the above please ?
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Hi all, thanks for letting me join the party. I have after nearly 35 years of using Nikon SLR and DSLR kit, have now pretty much totally converted to mirrorless (just a D500 left with 2 lenses), after selling all my Nikon FF gear and 7 lenses.

My system now consists of a mature Olympus M4/3 set up (don't shoot me - it really is very good), and I've just added a new Fuji X-T2, with 18-55 F2.8-4 and Grip.

The Fuji setup is talking a little bit longer than expected to get to grips with after so many years using Nikon cameras, but I'm starting to really warm to it, and am liking what I've seen in my first A3 sized prints.

Looking forward to getting plenty of hints and tips from these forums - thanks.
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[​IMG]
cascade
by kevin dixey, on Flickr

[​IMG]
hunting for light
by kevin dixey, on Flickr

I'm pleasantly surprised how well the 60/2.4 works as a walk-around lens. I can't get over how much this lens reminds me of the Panasonic/Leica 45/2.8 macro for m43. They're kissin' cousins.
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When I decided to take digital photography as a serious hobby the decision was mainly connected to my ability to perform decent post processing (at reasonable cost, of course). Three years ago Adobe Photoshop Elements seemed the best piece of SW equipment for me. It made me learn a lot, but many times with much pain and many times with scars end results. So I started to follow other people experience with alternatives.

Just a few days ago and much to my surprise I discovered that the common Photos app in Win 10 is not only a photo gallery but also a PP tool! And what a nice tool: simple and acting nearly as it read my mind! I guess that with Photos I could enhance most of my shots just the way I like to.

Unfortunately at the same time I discovered also that the app is subject to obscure crashes and interruptions that requires a full time job to search for potential technical solutions and an army of MS experts to cope with. I've seen that before with another nice MS app, the Movie Maker.

My questions to the forum community would be:
- is MS Photos on Win 10 worth the effort to make it run?
- is there any post processing app that is simple to use, performs well and in a reliable manner?
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And I'm off to Beijing University in a couple of weeks and on the university's nickel to pick up my award. I came in 2nd place in a national photo competition entitled "China in the Eyes of Foreigners." There's a big banquet, speeches (including one by a Nobel Laureate), money awards, certificates, etc. over the course of the day. I believe I posted these a while back, but here again are the photos I submitted in the competition. My verbiage with them speaks of the Yangtze estuary city of Shaoxing where life along the old canals is fast becoming obsolete and scenes like the ones below will be but memories a generation from now. X-E2 with XF 18-55mm and processed in Lightroom 5.7 with my personal HDR preset. Best. Don

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DSCF1145-2.jpg
Views: 405 / Likes: 30 / Replies: 24
SpringNatureBlindViews.jpg

X-T2 and XF55-200mm at a local Metropark yesterday.

Thanks for looking,
Ed
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Indeed... last Easter was an extraordinary adventure in the northwest of Spain, searching for original landscapes, lost spots and magic places... where I had the opportunity to get in touch with nature, alone, enjoying photography and taking the most of this holidays.

Welcome to my world:

www.josecarpin.com

Fujifilm X-T2 + XF 10-24mm f/4 R OIS | ƒ/16.0 10.0 mm Shutter speed 3.7seg ISO 100

[​IMG]
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This is a theory I came up with based off of the markings on the X series lenses. Since they are all FF equivalent markings perhaps at some point within the near or distant future Fujifilm would drop a full frame body and have firmware updates for the lenses that make them interchangeable between the APS-C bodies and the theoretical FF one. I think it's a pretty solid theory, especially in consideration of the GFX sensor being a little bigger than a FF sensor.

General Reference: This is How Fuji's New Medium Format Sensor Size Stacks Up

What do you all think? I can't stop thinking they've got one up their sleeve...

What MP would you prefer?

How pissed do you think Leica would be if they made a FF that was ten times more affordable?

Could we handle it?

I think so.
Views: 506 / Likes: 0 / Replies: 24
Sometimes life puts me in the right place at the right time. I was waiting to meet someone arriving on a bus which was delayed and saw this old pickup parked on the opposite side of the street. It's position was such that I realised it was possible to frame it in such a way as to remove any modern bits from the shot.

I live very close by so I went back home, got my X-T1 and 55-200 zoom and took this. It is very slightly cropped to remove the door entry intercom but is otherwise a straight jpeg.

Old-Pickup-Truck-web.jpg

Tried this B&W conversion using Silver Efex for the first time since I downloaded it.

Old-Pickup-Truck-web B&W.jpg
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Was reading a story about one of my favorite cars that for a time was available with only an automated manual transmission. Got me thinking about X cameras and the manual controls available to us.
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I've search through Google and Here for a couple of hours now and cannot find and answer.

Did Update 5.01 break TTL with EF-42?

I have checked all my settings and even reset the menus and camera several times with no ability to enable TTL for the EF-42 when on my XT-1 Hot shoe.

Camera is not on silent mode.
Flash will fire when camera shutter is pressed.
Camera is set to single shot mode.
Tried with shutter set to MS and MS & ES (no change in either setting)
All options in "other flash settings" turned off.

I bought the EF-42 specifically for TTL capability but now it seems like I wasted money on it.

Very frustrated over this.
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Hi

I've bought and sold many camera bags over the years in the search for the perfect bag!

My current bag lineup for my Fuji kit consists of two Ona Bowery's (one black, one tan), a Domke F-2 Ruggedwear and a Lowepro Slingshot 100AW and I love each of these bags for different reasons.

I would like another messenger style bag which is sized between the Ona Bowery and the Donke F-2.

I'd specifically like to carry 2 bodies (X-T1 and X-T10) both with lenses attached with one lens being the XF55-200. I can carry 2 bodies with lenses attached 'back to back' in a Bowery but not the 55-200mm as it's too long to fit.

The Domke F-803 looks like a possibility as does the Ona Prince Street (or maybe the Brixton?).

I'm looking for the smallest bag that will carry the 2 cameras with lenses attached that also looks good and doesn't scream 'camera bag'!...

I recently bought a Think Tank Retrospective 7 however it was much bigger (externally) than I'd imagined and comparable in size to my Domke F-2 (but with much less capacity) so I sold it again.

If anyone could recommend one of the above bags (for my specific requirements) or indeed anything else I haven't mentioned I'd be most grateful...
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I visited the Wartime in the Cotswolds event at Toddington station recently as my wife was working there and I had to deliver some clothing for her.

It was as always a well attended event and the weather was perfect.

It gave me the opportunity to capture a series of photos of the day with the Fuji kit, I have converted them all to B&W as it is more in keeping with the era.

The full set can be seen here - 571 Photography


DSCF3435-FrameShop.jpg

DSCF3438-FrameShop.jpg

DSCF3445-FrameShop.jpg


DSCF3531-FrameShop.jpg

DSCF3601-FrameShop.jpg
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Anyone have any idea when the next Fuji Cashback Promotion is due? - I notice Nikon have offers available but Fuji's last (UK) promotion expired in January
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Hi all, this question/bug may have been raised here before, but being new to the X-Pro2, and not being able to find reference, I thought I'd ask if this is normal.

I've noticed that when shooting with the X-Pro2, and when taking my eye away from the viewfinder, that the last shot is displayed on the LCD, as if the 'image disp' is set to 'continuous'. This is despite the 'image disp' being set to 'off'. This issue only occurs if the eye sensor is covered, either by my eye when shooting, or by finger whilst testing to replicate this issue.

Is this a known bug, or have I missed a setting somewhere?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.

P.S. the camera has the latest firmware.
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Hi

Having used a two-screen setup (iMac 27" and self-calibrating Eizo CG245W) for years with Aperture, I switched nearly a year ago to Lightroom CC. I was used to having my library shown on my uncalibrated iMac on the left, with my selected image on the Eizo on the right. Of course, I edit on the Eizo.

I cannot make any sense of Adobe's two-screen setup. In the library module, I can have them in a grid on the iMac, then, of course, I go into Develop and the library disappears, pointlessly leaving my selected image on both screens - but I can't edit on the Eizo, not even a crop.

Has anyone ever managed to actually use the second screen for anything?

Capture One does this very well, even better than Aperture.

I've checked the tutorials but found nothing to help. The only thing that makes any kind of sense, is to run it single-screen on the Eizo.

Hopefully, one of you knows better!

Regards,
Rich
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