Fujifilm newbie. I'm playing around with the image settings in the camera menu, and I don't know what the numbers relate to. For sharpness, what does 0 mean? Is this zero sharpening, or standard sharpening? In the former, one would expect that negative values "soften" the image, which I imagine would be useful for some situation.
Same question goes for colour, NR, etc. The manual is utterly useless for explaining these menu options.
Another question I have is which of these settings, if any, are applied to the RAW image. Is the a table somewhere online that shows what settings are applied to the RAW file?
EXIF see photo
(+MCEX11 | Raynox DCR5320Pro)
I paid a quick visit to a local waterfall to try my hand with filters & moving water when a few people with kayaks turned up.
High Force River by john latham, on Flickr
High Force Rock Garden by john latham, on Flickr
Low Force by john latham, on Flickr
Over The Falls 1 by john latham, on Flickr
Over The Falls 2 by john latham, on Flickr
I've been traveling to New Zealand for years. I'm really aiming to try and work more there, also. Any body experienced with any kind of travel? I've had gigs in various U.S. states, Hawaii & assisted in different locations.. people say Instagram.. but sometimes I feel clueless and it just falls into the abyss of everything else!
Anyway, I have the full blog here. Check it out if you'd like. CC always welcome!
I've discovered this colour, and in some pictures it looks good (subtle), and some far too bright.
Has anyone seen one in the flesh, and could give me an indication of what it's like?
I'm thinking of a Hadley Pro.
I had the opportunity of trying out the X100F for an hour or so on a walk around Leeds city centre recently. Not claiming a 'review' here, just some thoughts on the camera and a few images based on the short time I had with it.
Link here, for anyone who might be interested:
X100F in Leeds
Long time Fuji user since the film days here!
Still regularly using a GSW690iii and a Fuji GX617. Progressed through the Nikon F80-based Fuji S1 Pro dslr in 2000 and all subsequent Fuji dslr S* Pro iterations including Nikon from the D1x to D5. Closed the Fuji circle with an X100T two years ago and a bag full of XT-2 and prime lenses joined the X100T in December 2016!
I need a system that would cover 58-77mm *
It would be nice to have one system that would work on all my lenses for polarization and ND filters...a)do you think it worth it to try to sell filters in today's market and b) what would be the ideal alternative that would fit all lens sizes....and provide quality IQ etc.
Have looked at systems for Cokin, NiSi, Lee...anybody with positive experience offer advice..stick with what i got and buy a 72 +77 Polarizer and 77 ND
I have circular polarizers by B+W for 62mm and 58mm -
and I got 10 stop ND filters circular / B+W also, for 58, 62 and 72
I got following lenses
OK, I am doing something wrong here.
I thought I had my XP2 set to record RAW on 1 card and JPEG on another. Well it seems to be applying the filters I have set for JPEG to the RAW files also. How do I fix this? I want the RAW files untouched so if I need to mess with them in post I can.
Just wondering if anyone is using a LEE Filter system?
I have a full LEE system from my 5D3 FF camera and don't want to have to switch to the Seven5 if I don't have to.
From what I can see, I shouldn't have to switch to the smaller system if I just purchase the correct size adaptors for my Fuji lenses, although the system will be a lot larger on the front of the lens than would the Seven5.
Am I correct in thinking this, as I just want to confirm before ordering some new adapter rings from B&H?
DSCF2890 by jax_wired, on Flickr
DSCF2562 by jax_wired, on Flickr
DSCF2442 by jax_wired, on Flickr
DSCF2405 by jax_wired, on Flickr
DSCF2934 by jax_wired, on Flickr
DSCF2588-Edit by jax_wired, on Flickr
DSCF2715 by jax_wired, on Flickr
DSCF3017 by jax_wired, on Flickr
DSCF2437 by jax_wired, on Flickr
DSCF2651_HDR-2 by jax_wired, on Flickr
DSCF2835 by jax_wired, on Flickr
REMOVED. Reposting with smaller images.
I went yesterday to the Chouf area of Lebanon that has tremendous national parks with cedars forests and waterfalls, snow was at the rendez-vous too, photos were shot between 1000 and 1400m altitude, we couldn't reach the beautiful full of snow cedars that were on the top of the mountain (1700m) because the road was still closed by snow though which was my primary target :/
These cedars are not the infamous 3000 years old cedars of Lebanon that are in North Lebanon but rather centuries old ones.
Waterfalls are at the water source from melting snow.
To my surprise I saw tipis like native American ones
As usual with my X-T10 + 23mm f2 with Raw (thank God because the difference between shadows and highlights were big)
Our camera club is holding an exhibition soon and was inviting members to submit prints for consideration. So I thought let's put in a print from the X30 and see how it fares against the large sensor size submissions . Much to my surprise it was selected! This was a A3 print processed in Lightroom - size doesn't necessarily matter!
So I took off the little rubber cover for the terminal on the underside of my T2 where the booster grip connects and the caps for the terminal for the booster grip and put them in a little case so I wouldn't lose them. Guess what? I lost the case! Anyone know where I can get replacements?
What is the best way to ensure that your sensor is parallel to your subject? I'm using an X-T1 with a 60mm lens and am photographing small flat objects. The camera is attached to a medium format enlarger for which I've built a copy stand adapter. I've just used a micrometer to ensure equal distances from various points of the lens' circumference to the subject. But this has been a bit tedious. Is there a better / easier way?
I finally made the full switch to Fujifilm to Nikon, having shot my first paid shoot about a week and a half ago and my first long wedding last night with the new system. I.e. my first opportunity to test the camera in everything from perfect light to horrible light--currently using two XT-2's. Last night, I was struggling... partially because the venue is one of my least favorites as it's dark, a weird layout... it's just not a great place to shoot. I was feeling like I had made a mistake switching to Fuji. During daylight, I was thrilled and very excited--albeit still fumbling with controls a bit. At night, especially with flash, I struggled. I got my shots, but I am still getting used to using flash with this system.
Tonight, I had another wedding today and spent the morning really ironing out my settings in the camera. I also decided to give Area-AF a try, and that's where I feel like I finally bridged the gap. I was using spot AF and constantly struggling to get my AF point where I wanted it, and it just seemed unreliable. Especially in continuous mode. Switching to the small area AF meant suddenly locking focus much quicker and it follows a subject much more reliably. I am finally able to bring my camera to my eye and nail a shot in a split second. It doesn't always lock, but it's at least as reliable as using single point on my Nikon's from what I saw today. I still miss 3d-AF, but this is a big step forward. Moving subjects were a big problem, but this seems to resolve it. I need to do a more critical analysis in post, but so far I feel like I am finally nailing the system down and feeling confident.
Now I just need to work out the kinks when using flash.
Hi all, i use a sekonic with my Nikon quite a bit. Tried to setup the XT2, but shots are either blown out or dark. I know the discussions on iso values and equivalents, not really going down that rabbit hole. Just wanted guidance on how best to set up, or what do i need to do to ensure correct alignment? Much appreciated.
I would like to rely on the histogram but it's quite small and can't really tell.
As North America is without new xf16-55 f/2.8 lenses for some coming period of time, I purchased one “like new” off of ebay. This was my first every ebay purchase, and it did not all go well as the lens did not come with a hood, and the seller is being a jerk about it. I do have recourse available, but in talking with Fuji USA, who were terrific, I can get a hood for $16.00.
I tried the lens out today on my XPro-2 and it seemed fine until I did pixel peeping in PS, something that I rarely do. This is my first Fuji zoom so I don’t quite know how to interpret what I saw. I compared the 16-55mm image shot at 55mm with a nearly identical imagine I then shot at the same f/5.6 aperture with my 56mm f1/2. The 56mm was sharper without question at 1:1. At 2:1 I could see significant noise in the zoom image that wasn’t present in the fixed FL 56mm. At normal, uncropped viewing the lenses appear to be very close.
Of course I have no use for a 1:1 size, but if/when I do crop an image I want to still have very high IQ.
Finally my question and where I need a hand-hold. Is it “normal” for this zoom to be more than a little less sharp at 55mm than the very sharp 56mm fixed focal length lens? I had a few images from when I tested the 90mm f/2.0, and that famously sharp lens was also much sharper than the zoom.
I can send the lens back if I want, but with significant aggravation and needing to battle for my full refund, but if it is behaving as expected I will keep it.
ALL help appreciated.
XT2 and XF55-200mm at a local State Nature Preserve yesterday. The white line is a thin stream of water falling off a sandstone cliff that remarkably divided the line of illumination of the cliff.
In the background there was a sonic mash-up of rushing water and parents yelling at their kids "don't climb on the rocks!!!!". The kids gleefully ignored their parents .
Thanks for looking,
My wife and I took a trip to Weston today so we could get some clear fresh sea air and hopefully clear the lungs.
It was very grey, overcast and a little misty when we left home yet when we arrived at Weston it was bright with some blue sky and clouds and we even had the occasional appearance from the sun!
It was a good opportunity for me to try out the new 50-140 f2.8 lens while Sheila was doing her round of the shops!!
I am delighted with this lens, very fast to focus and quiet and wide open it is razor sharp - I can see this being one of my most used lenses.
These are images with the new lens taken today.