If you have any interest in how movies are made you need to watch this.
All the best to @Arjay today.
Today we have just launched the latest edition of Capture One! Capture One Pro 9.
Capture One Pro 9 Imaging Software | PhaseOne
We have built on existing features and improved the ones you know and use daily. Some highlights include..
- New Processing Engine
- New Color Editor Interface with the ability to create masks from Color selections
- LUMA Curves - i.e Luminance adjustment only with the power of the curve tool
- New brushing tools with Flow and Airbrush and easy straight line brushing.
- Curves now included as a Local Adjustments
- Keyword Library Manager and new Keyword tool
- Vastly improved rescaling engine
- Capture One Colors for DNG files
On a financial note each Capture One licence now gives you THREE installs. So you can cover your location system, office / studio system and home system. Even more value.
Here is an overview of what’s new…
Here is how the new Color Editor Works..
Here is the new Keyword Tool and Library in action…
On a personal note I will say that I didn’t look much into the new behaviour of the Contrast and Brightness sliders in the new processing engine at first. But I really must say it makes this rather rudimentary tool something special. Adding contrast to an image can often be a tough task, especially if you want to retain colors and saturation and not block up the blacks and ruin the highlights. The new processing engine does a great job of adding contrast in a subtle way. If you want even more control, then you have the Luma curve and the saturation slider at your disposal.
No doubt there will be some responses of “what about xyz tool??”. Remember, 9.0 is just the start and there is always more to come. Don’t forget throughout the life of Capture One 8 we added new features and tools, for example the Color Balance tool.
Download a 30 day trial today…
Upgrade your existing Capture One Pro 7 or 8 licence…
Buy Phase One software
There are a series of Webinars for Capture One Pro 9 in English, German and Japanese - have a look on our new webinar page..
Phase One Webinars
Could anyone recommend me please best in camera settings for JPEG? Mostly i shoot in raw but sometimes i want best quality JPEG's out of the camera.
Now i have something like this:
Highlight tone -2
Shadow tone -1
Noise reduction -2
What should i change?
By the way, i am user of Fuji X-M1.
I see in the various rumour sites that Samsung is perhaps getting out of the camera business, but have an announcement of some kind at 2016 CES in January.
Reading between the lines, I wonder would the NX1 sensor not be a good fit, and available for the new Fuji cameras rumoured for next year ?
That sort of resolution behind some of the well regarded Fuji lenses would be pretty intriguing..
We went to Portsmouth last Saturday:
(also posted in this thread: Few new pictures taken with X Pro-1)
Belgrave is the end of the train line hence the title. There are some interesting people in my neck of the woods.
X100s and X-T1
Street Art in public in the middle of the day
One good turn deserves another (former) buddy! Yes I see your Facebook posts
You meet the nicest people with Canons
If anybody is interested the rest are here on Flickr
I noticed yesterday when out in my local city centre with the 35mm that I felt it wasn't long enough and I wanted just that little bit more reach but still the benefits of a prime.
I already have the 50-140 which I love and know how good it is for both telephoto action and portraits, but it tends to only come out for specific things/tasks. It's not my go to for carrying all day 'just in case' lens. I've not played with the 56mm yet but I think it might fit what I'm looking for. What do you all use it for? Primarily portraits or do you take it out and about too? I know the 90mm is raved about, but I think I'm covered having the 50-140.
Is the 56mm much bigger than the 35mm 1/4? I don't want something massive hence why I've never bought the 16-55.
Hanukah is getting close! More here.
Actually the title should be 25 Kislev. Sorry.
I went on my annual trip to Death Valley last week where I walk into the desert and sit for the duration....ummmm...let's call it meditation.
X-Pro1....worked one second, didn't work the next. Boom, it went dead.
X100S...worked one second, the next second the EVF wouldn't. I guess technically it still does but only if there is something placed in front of the viewfinder on the front. Right now there is black gaffer tape there.
Pretty poor showing. I don't baby my stuff. To me they are nothing but tools to use for my job. But I also don't abuse them either. Most of my equipment I've had for 25 years plus and I treat it the same.
Took the Pro1 to Samy's camera so they can send it to Fuji. I figure if it is coming from Samy's they'll get on it quicker. The X100S...whatever. It still sort of works but now can't bounce between EVF and the OVF so easily.
And no, sand was/is not the problem.
I generally don't like these "What should I do" posts. But, the folks on this forum are constructive and helpful, so here I go.
I am a longtime Aperture user. Since Apple decided to abandon future versions and fixes for Aperture this year, I have been thinking and wondering what to do? I also have Photos because I have updated my Macs to Yosemite and ElCapitan. But, Photos is really rudimentary.
I have a 30 day trial of LR Cloud Version running on one computer. I like this concept because I have two homes and can work on a synced version wherever I am without carrying an external drive back and forth.
I am concerned about getting a large library on LR Cloud and having it slow down a lot. I have decent internet connections, but not super fast. We also have a lot of folks in the one house all the time, on the network. It slows things down.
Any experience with LR CC and speed?
Should I use Aperture until I need some kind of update and then move to LR? Or, should I just make the switch now and pay either $145 or $9.99/month. I don't use Photoshop. I was never able to work with it and Aperture has done what I needed.
I shoot in Raw on both cameras. Aperture seems pretty quick and accepting of the RAF files. I tried SilkyPix but since I already use Aperture, it seems a little clunky.
Going for a weekend to Lille Christmas market, don't know which camera to take, x100, or new XT10, portability of x100 appeals, most photos will be at night, no extra flash, and of the market, oh, and any recommendations on Sd card would be appreciated.
I have both an X-E1 and an X-30 with which I almost always shoot in RAW.
My new PC is running Windows 8.1 with plenty of RAM and all of the latest updates from Microsoft as well as the latest Silkypix converter and My FinePix Studio from Fujifilm.
Downloading RAF files from the X-E1 results in my being able to view the RAF files in Windows Explorer. I process them in the Silkypix converter and all is well.
However, I cannot see the RAF thumbnails from the X-30 in Windows Explorer. I can see these thumbnails in both "My Fine Pix Studio" and in "FastStone Image Viewer" but, for some reason that I have not been able to determine, not in Windows Explorer. All that I see in Windows Explorer is the "RAF" icon. Processing these RAW files in the Silkypix converter and saving them as TIFF or JPEG files generates thumbnails just fine in those formats but the RAW files still only show up as icons.
I had the same problem with my old PC running Vista so it's not limited to just this one PC.
Being pretty much at my wits end I'd appreciate any suggestions.
Every problem I have had with Fuji in a mostly delightful transition from Nikon is with Flash. I am consistently making some mistake that I have not been able to decipher.
Both using only the X-t1 and one of the primes (16 or 23mm) or with a prime and the fujicam remote I get a mix of perfectly exposed and massively overexposed shots. Most recently half of my tripod-fujicam remote shots were so overexposed that I could recover little detail.
I assume I am acting as if Fuji will do a similar TTl to Nikon and thus doing it wrong.
How do I set the camera so that I can choose an F stop and let the camera decide what level of flash is needed?
Should I NOT use a range of ISO and just set the fixed ISO? Do I have to put the aperture and the ISO and Shutter dials on automatic?
On Thanksgiving I fired off a large number of shots with the remote and some were more than five stops over exposed. Did I just do something wrong on the remote?