My X100F has a firmware of 9.31 which is obviously incorect. I was hoping that with the new firmware update it will refresh and corect to the latest available, but the update did not go through - saying I had the latest available. No way for me to return the camera - I bought 2nd hand. Any ideas what I can do?
I made a couple of videos on my FujiOM channel explaining a way of inserting the Peak Design Ankers links on Fuji X series bodies.
Thought you might find it useful.
I shoot mostly flowers and plants with my X-T2. I am on the fence about the Lensbaby X-T2. It's on sale for $399, but is it worth it?
Anyone use it on a Fuji X system? Or any camera?
My Pentax-M SMC 50mm f1.4 lens is starting to die
I've owned this lens for a few years now though I've rarely used it, I am the second owner. The glass is crystal clear and produces amazing images!
Over the last ten or so times I've been using it, the aperture ring and focus ring have been jamming randomly. I've found moving both together sometimes frees up one of them, but yesterday they both jammed and now I cannot free them up does anyone know what could have gone wrong?
Re-entering the Fuji world with another X-T1 after a temporary departure (having nothing to do with the gear and lots to do with an unexpected expense) and can't find the answer to my question in the manual.
When shooting manual ISO - i.e., selecting the value on the dial - that value shows up on the EVF and LCD (as I've set it to do so in the display customizations). However...
When the ISO dial is set to "A" and I'm using Auto ISO (with a minimum of 200 and a maximum of 1600) the value in the displays ALWAYS reads 1600, even if I change the aperture or shutter speed. Once I take the picture, I can see what the actual ISO was when I review the shot, but it sure would be nice to see the actual value in real time.
Is this possible?
With thanks in advance for the help,
One of the most beautiful places you can find in the Mediterranean.
X100F classic chrome.
Direct camera Jpeg.
Greetings from Spain.
A quick trip out today to spend a couple of hours trying to capture some images of damselflies and dragon flies if they were about, a close afternoon weather wise with no sunshine but still some damselflies about.
I came across the dragonflies firstly by finding one trying to dry out its wings and another that a fellow photographer showed me, again it was trying to dry its wings out.
Anyone have any idea when will Fujifilm have another lens sale. Its been dec-jan since they last had a sale. I was told April or early may way back in feb but it has obviously came and gone with no sale. I have also noticed that Fujifilm has increased some of their lenses by a few hundred dollars. What is the explanation for this I wonder?
Will X100-F get up to 15 minutes in T-mode in a future firmware update?
When shooting highlights at F2, the x100F delivers very ugly highlight patterns. These patterns are not existing at F2.2 and greater values.
I shoot concert, lights is changing all the time. For this, I love to shoot in Shutter prio mode, ISO Auto, Auto aperture.
My problem is that the camera would select F2 from time to time when in Shutter prio mode, and due to the very ugly highlight patterns at this aperture, I tend to get very ugly results.
I know workarounds, I am aware about manual mode, I am aware about Aperture prio mode. Please do not propose any workaround for this. I want to stick to Shutter prio mode in the first place.
For this, I would appreciate to get the possibility to set a max aperture value when in Shutter prio mode, to avoid F2 and stop to F2.2 instead for example.
Hopefully a Fuji representative can read this post somehow.
In the Flatiron District:
Fujifilm Wonder Photo Shop New York City
Anyone been there?
There's a coupon for four free small prints in the current issue of PDN.
What a fantastic combination. Beautiful tactile camera and a super lens. Took it to Venice. I did miss a linger focal length on a few occasions. Thinking of buying the 40-150 F2.8 plus converter. Has anybody used this - Any thoughts on quality please. Will upload my images on LR soon - Adam
In AF-C mode, half-pressing shutter locks exposure, but AF keeps adjusting focus. Taking a shot, but not letting the half-press go, allows to take subsequent shots with a twist: AF is now locked, but the exposure is unlocked and is being metered continuously until the next shot.
Raw file, B/W loaded straight into LR, no adjustments other then default. Then into Efex for conversion, nothing added. Colour just the same default but Astia film simulation added.
So from now on it's raw, mainly because my usual ISO setting is around 6400, I love wet nights in the city., maybe it's wrong but my gut feeling is at higher ISO raw is better.
Another factor is my main interest in photography is B/W printing, I use A4 for test prints.
I have always advocated Fuji JPEG rather then messing around with raw. But I have done a complete U turn.
I only use B/W. Some say alright use JPEG but back up with a raw file. Fair enough but why should I clutter things up with two files. There again others would say, use JPEG because of the great film simulations, fair enough if that's your bag. Then some say, blow raw with all the extra editing work. So let.s have a look at where I am at.
Take film simulations, Oh Acros, I hear a great cry, well in all truth it was never a great favourite in real terms, what's changed apart from it now being digital?. Anyway it's available in at least three different ways post processing.
Bearing in mind my passion re photography is actually printing. I use A4 for test prints!
Not my usual sort of snaps but I thought I would try a little experiment.
Shot using my X100T, The raw file was loaded into LR, default setting untouched then straight into Nik Efex for conversion, no adjustment just transferred for the better, in my opinion conversion.
The colour version exactly the same but Avia film simulation was used.
Max aperture setting when in S mode, to avoid F2 and stop to F2.2 instead for example.
This would prevent from getting the ugly results shown on this thread: X100F, weird highlights around spot lights?
Please make it happen.
I've spent a long time deciding either to get a 35/1.4 for the Sony or an XF23/1.4 for the X* collection. A 23/1.4 popped up on the 'tree so I grabbed it - mainly because of useful, cheap, light AF on the X series for an ongoing job...
Tonight was clear so I tried a couple of frames out in the backyard pointing it at the centre of the galaxy. Lens seems OK but you don't get long before the stars start to trail. This is ONE frame, no LENR - no stacking, post in LR.
XP2, 23/1.4, f/1.8, 20 secs ISO 1000. That is my TV aerial at the bottom of the frame.
(Oh and I live 3k from CBD )
I have noticed that the XC 16-50mm is the kit lens on the X-T20, whats the difference between this and the 18-55 regarding image quality etc besides the obvious zoom range? Should I just buy the body and get the older kit lens?
Just took this photo for a friend today. We just shot in my backyard as we were too lazy to go anywhere.
56mm 1.2 with a 40cm beauty dish. Coming from 5D iii and 5D Iv this lens enables me to get a similar look as full frame for shallow dof portraits [emoji3]
What's the best filter grad to start off with in the Seven5 series. Soft or Medium? Common sense says medium as I am looking at a versatile grad. Looking at getting the .3/.6/.9 three pack in either. I have not considered the hard grads but I'm open to all opinions.
I typically shoot whilst traveling so tend to shoot during mid day harsh light, however I do get the occasional morning or evening to shoot in good light. My subjects are all over the place. Somedays it's buildings that protrude into sky, sometimes it's trees that protrude into sky, other days it's a straight line horizon.
I've read the differences in the grads on Lee's website but looking for real world opinions of users that have experience with the system and which one is the most flexible grad for a wide range of landscapes.
Thanks for the help.
I've been wanting to take all of my lenses that I currently own and run them through a very informal test to see how well they do, and to see if any of them have any abnormal characteristics. So this afternoon I setup a little table on the deck in the back yard with an assortment of colorful alcoholic bottles and glass. I then setup the camera on a tripod and at every focal length I tried to align the left and right edge of the table to fit just in the bottom left and right corners of the frame. It was overcast outside, giving a nice diffused light. I used ISO 200 for all of the shots, and I started at a wide open aperture at every focal length and took a picture at every 1/3 stop up to 16 or 22 depending on the maximum aperture of the lens.
Here's the cameras and lenses I used:
- XF10-24mmF4 R OIS
- XF16-55mmF2.8 R LM WR
- XF16mmF1.4 R WR
- XF18-55mmF2.8-4 R LM OIS
- XF23mmF2 R WR
- XF35mmF2 R WR
- XF55-200mmF3.5-4.8 R LM OIS
- XF56mmF1.2 R
- XF100-400mmF4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR
- XF100-400mmF4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR + 1.4x
I've dropped a subset of the test images in my dropbox folder. I've taken the 4.0, 8.0, 16.0 of each group, along with the minimum aperture, so some have 1.2, 1.4, 2.0, 2.8, etc. Given that, the entire thing is still a very large download if you're interested.
- 24.0-120.0 mm f/4.0
- 50.0 mm f/1.8
- 70.0-200.0 mm f/4.0
- 105.0 mm f/2.8
Here's the link to my Public DropBox folder: Dropbox - Public
There are two folders in the Public folder. Lenses (DNG) and Lenses (JPG). The Lenses (JPG) is completely copied up and is full res jpg's that include the EXIF data so you can see the info. The Lenses (DNG) contains a DNG of each test file, that includes the embedded raw file. It's still in the process of copying up, so I'll edit this post when it's finished.
I have enjoyed doing a lot of comparisons in Lightroom, as it is very easy to find exact lens, aperture, camera, etc. Perhaps someone will find something interesting in all of this. I'll post follow up observations once I've done some more analysis on the images. Overall though I'd say the Fuji lenses (at least my copies) are all magnificent.
- This is obviously not any sort of serious test, I wouldn't know how to even if I wanted to. It was just to have some fun, learn how well the lenses worked, and make sure I didn't have any clunker lenses.
- When I got to testing the longer focal lengths of the 100-400, I had to move the table about 20-25 feet further out into the yard, and I didn't set the bottles up exactly the same way, so there's a little difference there.
Here's a sample of the shortest focal length (10mm using the 10-24mm F4.0):
Here's a sample of the longest focal length (560mm using the 100-400mm with the 1.4x):
I took some photos with my X-T2 using the Acros film simulation mode. Unfortunately, I made the error of shooting them in RAW. When I load them into LR, am I going to lose this Acros film simulation since I shot in RAW? Or, is there a way I can recover from this. Over site on my part, my error. I know you can shoot RAW+Fine. Trying to save the Acror look with this current deck. Thanks in advance for any help. Tom
Just got the 50-140mm, and am wondering about the manual focus ring. It takes many, many turns of the ring to change the focus any substantial distance - so much as to be virtually unusable in any real scenario unless I'm already very near to being focused on the subject. The AF on this lens is very good, but it seems strange that the MF is so bad? I have the 35mm f2 as my other lens and the MF is not this cumbersome, and is much more sensitive. Am I missing something? I use the XT-2, btw.
Also, unrelated, but why does the image go out of focus when zooming, only to snap back into focus when done zooming? It's my only zoom Fuji lens, so I'm not sure if this is common among Fuji zooms. Coming from a history with SLRs, this seems strange to me.
Went to the Rowell Ranch Rodeo last weekend and the X-T2 with the Vertical Power Booster Grip delivered the goods once again...
This cowboy actually landed on his feet, unbelievably enough...
This bull gives the "evil eye" to a cowboy he has just bucked off....this big boy had quite the fighting spirit.
More bucking bull action....most of the cowboys can only stay on for a few seconds...
I keep getting very weird highlights around spot lights on my shots, either in concert situation, or also a simple bateau Mouche on the Seine.
Someone can explain why the hightlights are so bad? Do you all get the same effect?
Just bought the 56 f1.2
I decided to take it out for a quick spinn. The kids were in the mood, so here are some of the results. It certainly is a masterpiece (the lens obvious). Feels very intuitive and the focussing went relatively quick on my x-t2. Not even near the 35 f2, but who needs that quick of a focus for standard portraiture.
All were shot at f1.2 (was just curious for the bokeh and sharpness wide open). Iso 200 and relatively fast shutterspeeds to compensate the aperture.
So far I love it!
In X-E2, in MF mode, when shutter is half pressed, the focus ring stops working. I'm being confused by it all the time as in AF-S, when AF+MF is turned on it is exactly when it starts working.
Does it work the same way in newer X cameras/firmware such as T2/T20?
We were in Cheltenham today, had planned on going to Weston-Super-Mare but there was a huge traffic jam on the motorway so we opted for Cheltenham instead.
It was overcast with the threat of rain but luckily it kept away.
I had the XP2 with me with a choice of lenses but opted to shoot with the 56mm.
I don't know if this is something that has just happened, or if it's been a thing.. I usually use the exposure meter, but lately told myself that I should just rely on and trust the preview for the exposure I'm looking at to expose correctly.
But how can I do that if the exposure is significantly different from what I'm seeing in the preview? And yes.. The setting is on both exposure and WB not just WB. Checked 3 times to make sure I wasn't crazy.
As you can see, the preview shot is well brighter than the actual exposure. The iPhone was static, set to exposure and focus lock to take the shot. And I use the AF-L button on the X T1 to focus, and exposure settings are manual, so there should be no change there, either. And yet, there is.
Can anybody offer up some info on this?
Bottom shot is the preview. Top is the actual exposure.