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Hi hopefully someone can help me, i have owned an x100s from new for a year now, finally discovered a timed mode next to the bulb mode by reading some internet blogs.

Problem is with mine when i go down through the shutter speeds it goes, 16,8,4 and then 2 instead of T??

Bulb mode appears to be ok, but in T mode when i move the control dial all it does is adjusting the aperture increments NOT the timed exposure which it should be.

Not sure if its something i am doing wrong or mine is missing this function?
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Out and about today around the northern part of Norfolk, via fakenham, cromer and the coastal road back to hunstanton. I dont usually do landscapes, i dont have the patience to wait for mother nature to create magical light, but today was the exception, and mother nature was awesome! blakeney2.jpg cromer2.jpg blakeneysunset.jpg

Fuji X-a2
Fuji 35/2 R WR
Astia
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I just got the new firmware for the x-e2 which gave the camera an electronic shutter option. If you are shooting on a tripod and your subject is a still life or landscape with no subject movement would it be better to use the electronic shutter rather than the mechanical shutter? My thoughts are that it would eliminate any kind of shutter vibration during the exposure. I used to use live view in my Canon days when shooting these types of subjects. I don't see anyway that it could hurt.
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A buddy of mine challenged me to post 7 "Nature" pictures on another site. No one else was doing underwater shots. Thought I might share a few here too.

Turtle01.jpg

Nemo 2.jpg

Sea Horse.jpg

IMG_1396.jpg

red lace lr.jpg
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I'm hoping someone on the Forum can point me to a resource for calculating an hourly rate that takes into account taxes. I'm working on idea for some part-time work and don't want to overprice myself and scare away potential clients. But I don't want to undercharge and be left with very little after taxes. Thanks in advance for any tips.
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Played around a litle, to see how close it was possible to get to a subject. This is the result.

This is the end of a finger ring, head of the snake is around 4-5mm long, 2-3mm wide.

1.jpg

Next post will contain further info.
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We are seeing more and more options coming to the fuji in camera JPEG engine (especially since the Xpro-2):
- more film simulations (Classic Chrome, Acros)
- more fine controls (extension of the settings from -2/+2 to -4/+4 for some filters)
- totally new filter: grain control

In that trend, I would personally love see a new filter bring some more control in regards to what is often called local or micro contrast (or Clarity filter in Lightroom or ACR). That filter is often pivotal in making my image "pop", especially when doing B&W.

Additionally, having a tint filter when doing B&W could also be nice, I like adding the slightest hint of orange/yellow in my B&W conversion to warm up the photo. That might be a tiny be complicated to implement in camera though as it usually requires really fine tuning, but one can dream :)
Dylan leading the third pitch of Leaning Tree, western Wyoming. A perfect sunny day for a climb.

The 8mm doesn't work in very many situations, but sometimes the landscape is just perfect.

DXE10282.jpg
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Just received this email from Rocky Nook:

Rocky Nook has released another free ebook guide titled, Making the Move to Capture One Pro from Lightroom or Aperture

This helpful guide makes the transition to Capture _One just a bit easier. It’s designed for those who are considering making the switch but aren’t sure where to begin. We’ve outlined the process to include:
• An overview of Capture _One Pro 9 and its capabilities
• Transition strategies from Lightroom or Aperture
• Importing methods
• Creating test libraries and catalogs
• A list of key image editing features
Plus, use the coupon CAPTUREONE40 which offers 40% off our full eBook Capture One Pro 9


Also don't forget: forum members get 10% off Capture One using code AMBFUJIXFORUM at this link.
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Hi all,

Does anyone has experience with the adapter settings in the Fuji menu when using the M-mount adapter?

What I don't understand for example is the following: you can set the peripheral illumination correction to a certain value, but this effect depends on the chosen aperture. So when you have a wide angle lens, this effect is much stronger at F1.4 than it is at let's say F8.0, but you can only choose one value (?)

Anybody some experience with this or the setting in general.

Thanks!
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While picking up my dog yesterday at the groomers, snapped this shot of this female poodle that seemed fascinated with me. Now, if I could just have that effect on females of my species :rolleyes:

X100, 1/70 at f/2.0

FM002.jpg
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Withered in B-W.JPG
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Does anyone use the Camera Remote App and, if so, under what circumstances is it useful?
Thanks
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A remodeling of a picture of last year
X-T1 + XF 50-140

[​IMG]
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I recently bought one of these on ebay. The lens is in excellent condition and I've no reason to think it is faulty. But I'd like to know whether the following phenomenon is normal for the lens.

With the lens attached to my X-T1, there is a constant low-level 'rumbling' noise. Is this normal?

It is very low level and really needs my ear next to the lens barrel to hear it. I'm not concerned about the noise itself but it implies there is a constant drain on the battery.

The camera menu option "IS MODE" is set to "SHOOTING ONLY".

The noise is there whenever the camera is switched on regardless of whether the OIS switch on the lens barrel is On or Off. The noise is not down to the autofocus mechanism because setting it manual focus makes no difference.

Same happens when the lens is mounted on my X-E1.

Images taken with IS on are substantially sharper than those with it switched off (at constant shutter speed) so the IS is working as expected.

As I say, it probably isn't a fault but like to know whether it's normal behaviour for the lens.

Thanks in advance.

Keith.
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One of the local TV stations used one of my pics as a backdrop for the weather tonight. A pretty unremarkable pic but what the heck I'll take a quick half a million views of my pictures any day! :D

[​IMG]

It is actually a 6 shot stitched panorama of the Walhalla Cricket ground. The "fun" part of this ground is that it is 200 metres (650 feet) above the township of Walhalla up a narrow winding pathway. The ground was hewn from the hill top by hand using picks and shovels by the gold miners of the area in the late 19th century. There are no facilities and no water at the ground and surface is as rough as. There is no way I would be trying to stop a cricket ball bouncing along the ground thats for sure.

X-T1, 18-55

[​IMG]
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Has anyone else experienced the film curves for Fuji disappearing with the latest version?

I am using an Xpro1 and always had several options (auto, film, film shadows, linear, etc) and now auto is the only option.
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Picked up another earlier version of the Rollei 50mm f1.8 — this one a "made in West Germany" copy labelled Carl Zeiss instead of Made By Rollei, and without the HFT (coating designation) badging.

It does appear to have a purple iridescent coating that looks very much like the HFT badged version that I have, so I do suspect that if it's not bearing the exact same coatings, then it's a similar precursor — either to HFT or T* or both. Whatever the case, it does seem to control flare very well, and maintains good contrast even with direct setting sun in the frame. It's not totally devoid of flare, but I shot it back to back with an HFT Distagon, and that lens showed pretty much the same behaviour in those conditions.

(Actually — the "Made in Squamish" shot in the first comment was taken on the Rollei 35mm f2.8 Distagon — that one snuck into this batch, but I figure I'll leave it now that it's here...)

In any case — here's a few from the lens on the A7ii

[​IMG]Howe Sound Flare by Tim Lukian, on Flickr

...more images in the first comment...
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Hi everyone,

I wanted to share a video montage of some my portrait images on You Tube. Before I picked up a camera 5 1/2 years ago I was a pro-guitarist working with a wide range of artists, so these days I tend to shoot a good number of musicians and artists. Some of the images were shot with my Fuji X100s, which I LOVE so much! or Canon 5D MkIII. I also composed and recorded the music for the video as well. Hope you can watch, thank you.

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Reply in this thread with your location (specifically, your country) if you want to take part in the Traveling Lens Project.

Refer to this thread for discussion
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Here are some initial thoughts on the X70 that arrived today. I think this is my new favorite.

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I've had a Fuji X-T10 and JPEGs would be around 7MB in size. Some up to 10.5MB. Today playing with an X-T1 with the latest firmware, I haven't had a single JPEG file larger than 5.8MB (most around 3.5-4.5MB), even the detailed outdoor variety. I thought I've read someone say that the X-T1 post firmware 4.0 has increased its JPEG size, but it looks like a no? Or am I doing something wrong?

Basically it seems like my X-T10 JPEGs looked a bit better, sharper at the same settings, and I'm trying to get to the bottom of this difference.

Here's a discussion on the X-T10 JPEG size from a while ago:
http://www.************.com/topic/228-x-t10-jpeg-size-150-larger/?p=1905)

edit, well, apparently this site blocks fuji x forum, if you substitute the stars with that, you'll get to the discussion thread.
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At a local food bank in NJ. More here.

160209_027_sep2.jpg
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quetzal cloud forest 1.JPG quetzal cloud forest 3.JPG quetzal cloud forest 1.JPG quetzal cloud forest 3.JPG Here are some captures with the new super tak. Have not been able to see any highlighting trying to use peaking so shots are eye focus with ovf. I have the camera set for focus peaking , not sure what to try.

Liking the lens very much .

1.4 not 1.5 .. sorry..

quetzal cloud forest 4.JPG
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[​IMG]San Fabian Mornings by She Escobar, on Flickr

Fujifilm X-T1 - XF 14mm F2.8
30 seconds, f/5.6, +2, ISO 2000

I wake up at around 1 or 2 AM to travel south with friends for about 1 to 2 hours, in the hopes of catching a sunrise. We sometimes wander to coastal areas in nearby provinces. When we arrive earlier than expected, I like just sitting somewhere to soak in the place (probably munching on something like a cookie). This photo was taken at 5:33 AM. You can imagine how quiet it is that time, with only water and bird sounds reaching your ears. I was just sitting there waiting for the sun to rise when I noticed a man on a boat near the fish pen. He moved quietly and swiftly.
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WinterWaterfallFrozenPoolsFlowBW.jpg

XPro1 and XF55-200mm at a local State Park.

Thanks for looking,
Ed
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Hi. On my XT10 when you assign the movie record buttom to Face Detection it works perfectly - you press and hold the button to turn off or on. However on my XT1 when I press the movie record button it brings up an annoying menu (and another annoying and pointless step) from which you have to either select on or off. Is there any way of turning off this extra step on the Xt1?

Thanks!
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I decided to get out and enjoy our first really warm 80+ degree day of the year so I took a walk/hike in Papago Park today and make this the first outing with my newly acquired X-T1. Papago is located in Phoenix, Arizona and represents a near desert environment though I don't believe broken bottles are native to the desert. Both shots with X-T1 at ISO 200 and 18-55 lens with polarizer filter used to cut down on harsh sunlight. First shot f10, 1/125 second, focal length of 29mm.
[​IMG]
Or B&W if you are so inclined.
[​IMG]
Second shot f6.4, 1/180 second focal length of 37mm
[​IMG]
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Half time of Superbowl L. XE1 XF27mm

Whitney Houston is in a highlight segment. We Yanks love a highlight reel. Krug's Tavern is owned by members of Jake LaMotta's family

_DSF2704.jpg
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I use my Focus Assist button on my X-T1 a lot and want to raise it so it’s easier to feel. Has anyone experimented with any kind of stick on solutions, maybe micro peel and stick rubber feet or other suggestions?
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Two sides of the River.jpg
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I've started getting several disfiguring smudge-marks on my pictures. Always in the same place, but generally only visible when I'm using a relatively small aperture. One obvious example is shown in this picture:

I can't see any obvious damage to my lens. I've brushed it with my lens cleaner to get rid of any dust, to no avail, tried the wiper on my lens cleaner and even cleaned it with an alcohol-based cleaning fluid and lens cloth.

Although I've never removed the lens since I bought the camera, I've even tried cleaning the inner lens; still no difference.

Any suggestions what I might have done? And more important, what I might be able to do to solve the problem?
Thanks.
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Three-image panorama with 23mm from Mirador de las Yeguas, Gran Canaria:

Gran Canaria Mountain Panorama_edited-3.jpg
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First photo taken with my newly acquired 14mm lens and X-T1. Edited of course.

BART3669-Edit.jpg
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Me again!

Yes it was a big sporting week-end :)
Here is a few pics from l'Épreuve du Nord, a SAE mini-Baja endurance race. The Engineering Department at Laval University has been hosting the northernmost race in the circuit for the last 11 years, it's also the only one to take place in the snow !
It's the second time that I get a chance to shoot this really amazing and gruesome 2 hours event, out of the 27 Bajas on the starting line only 14 will make it to the end!

Here 's a link to the Wikipedia article on Baja SAE: Baja SAE - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The Flickr Album: Baja SAE 2016, Épreuve du Nord

Thanks for looking !

Gilles
The Flickr Sport and Action group on Flickr: Fuji-X Sport and Action

In order: first, second and third place winners
[​IMG]SAE BAJA - 2016 #59 by Gilles Baribeau, on Flickr
[​IMG]SAE BAJA - 2016 #63 by Gilles Baribeau, on Flickr
[​IMG]SAE BAJA - 2016 #28 by Gilles Baribeau, on Flickr

And here's one of last years winner doing a face plant...
[​IMG]SAE BAJA - 2016 #51 by Gilles Baribeau, on Flickr

...and a roll over:
[​IMG]SAE BAJA - 2016 #41 by Gilles Baribeau, on Flickr
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I will be going on a dream vacation to Galapagos in Ecuador, next May, and I am trying to decide which best combo lens to take with me....Currently own the 18-55 and 55-200, 35mm f/1.4, I am curious as if the 18-135 with its WR would be a good choice or perhaps should I take care of my WA needs and either get the 14mm or the 10-24 for the wide angle shots?? what do you recommend??
thanks
Victor
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