Sorry if this has been discussed before (and I'd love a pointer to an earlier discussion if so).
Those of you who've moved on to X-T2 or X-Pro2 from earlier Fuji bodies: how do you feel about the OOC film simulations vs the earlier bodies?
While there are variations from model to model, they seem to be lesser than those going from one sensor generation to the next. For example, it's generally accepted that going from the first generation of X-Trans to X-Trans II, film simuations have gained contrast and saturation. For instance, X-E1's Provia is less contrasty with more opened up shadows, more like X-T1's Pro Neg Std with color +2 and maybe shadows -1. X-T1's / X-E2's Provia is more saturated with less visibile information in the shadows. Etc.
I've been seeing in reviews of X-T2 and X-Pro2 that film simulation results have yet again changed a bit. One review even said something to the extent of Fuji losing its "magic" with the colors from the new models. I keep hoping they went back to the first generation of X-Trans colors: less contrast, more detail in the shadows, beautiful colors.
Would anyone care to comment? If you have an older generation body, a side-by-side photo comparison would be cool too using identical settings.
Hi.. I have the Sennheiser G3 Wireless Lav mic and the X-T2. How does the pre-amp on the X-T2 compare to say the Canon 5D MkIII with regards to the internal camera pre-amp?
Can I get away with plugging the Sennheiser receiver right into the camera mic input directly at Mic level 1 on the camera? Or will I get similar hiss noise like with the 5D MkIII which required me to go with the Juicelink and at 1 level?
Am looking at one of these but don't know how they compare in actual shooting wide open. I know the faster lens will have more shallow depth of field but they are most likely pretty close. Anyone do some tests so I can get a better feel of reality in performance? Wide open as well as stopped down a touch?
Any real performance differences in the final image between the two at similar apertures?
I am presently using:
Image size: L (large) 3:2 and
Image Quality : Fine (highest quality)
Is there a huge difference (and why) using 3:2 vs 16:9 ?
Which setting (s) do you prefer and under which circumstances? ((added))
Moderators ... I tried searching for this on this forum ... not much luck but please move this or even delete if necessary.
Sony Stops Making 16MP Sensors :: Fujifilm 16MP X-Cameras Affected :: Fujifilm X70 Already Marked as Discontinued
Sony Stops 16MP Sensor Production
According to a new source (thanks), Sony just stopped the production of its 16 Megapixel sensors. As a consequence, so the source, Fujifilm is in the process of withdrawing all its 16MP cameras.
If true, then this is the end for 16MP X-Trans cameras… and some of those had a considerably short production life, as for example the Fujifilm X70 and Fujifilm X-E2s, which were launched just 11 months ago!
The source said that Sony’s decision surprised Fujifilm, since it came without much advanced warning (usually Sony gives a much longer advanced warning when it comes to end of sensor production, so that companies can adjust their strategy according to Sony’s sensor plans).
If, True, X70, XE2s and XT10 may be a great deal for XMax....
Hi, I recently used my X-T1 in the rain - when I took photos following that this mark showed up I'm assuming that it's moisture on the sensor? Two questions really...
- could this be a fault? I've only had it 10 months so it's under warranty.
- if it's not a fault (or it's my fault somehow) - what do I need to do?
Hi there, this is both an introduction of myself and some of my photographs taken with the fuji x100. Here's the last one I took (if case you like what you see, feel free to have a look at my flickr gallery, hope you find something of interest!).
B&H, Adorama, etc show that this lens is backordered, do you know what is going on? Do you know of another reputable store that has this in stock?
I am ready to give up on the Fuji cable release because it creates problems when using it with an L-bracket in a vertical position ( i tried a bunch of different options, like arca swiss extenders, etc, but they are all ugly). I seem to remember that someone modified that other connector to work at 90 degrees, so I am looking for advice on which cable release you use that connect to the non-micro USB port (do these 2 ports perform the same?).
I don't want to spend too much, I think someone mentioned in the past cable releases for Canon...
I was shocked today reading that the focus - recompose method wouldn't work properly on the Fuji X system due to the lenses being "flat field".
Anyone here wanting to agree or disagree with this?
Fuji X-T1 settings - ProPhotoNut
Usually they have the $50.00 Mail In Rebate Coupons for Fujifilm X Bodies and Lenses at these Events...
Just remember to buy all items separately as it's one rebate per item...
I've lusted after a Leica Noctilux 50/0.95 for many years now, but I could never justify the price. I had a good year with my design business, and I wanted to treat myself to something fun. The Mitakon 50/0.95 (Baby Noctilux) has been on my radar for a few years now. When it went on sale at B&H a few weeks ago, I decided to take the plunge.
Even though I researched the "Dark Knight" for days (weeks?), I was still worried it wouldn't be as good as I hoped, or that I'd get a "bad" copy. Spoiler alert: this baby is the real deal. Way sharper than I thought it would be in the center, and with all the 3D pop and creamy OOF rendering I was hoping for. It even has a good amount of "micro-contrast". The only ding is a fair bit of purple fringing on highlights, but that's easy to fix. (And even my "best" lenses have some fringing) It also focuses down to .5m (16"), which is nice.
Note that I love super-shallow DOF, and shoot mostly wide open! I also like vignetting and some "character" in a lens. I bought this lens for all of that and it has delivered 100%!
A few examples from the 50/0.95 on my A7ii. All at f/0.95. It was a severely overcast day, but the images are still contrasty and colorful. Processed with my usual "one click" LR setting. Nothing different.
Bocce Court 1. Brooklyn Bridge Park.
Hoop, There It Is. Brooklyn Bridge Park.
Eye Spy Lower Manhattan.
Skiff. Brooklyn Bridge Park Marina.
Hi everybody, maybe this might be helpful to some. I stil have not decided what flash system I will buy into, the Fuji system being what it is as of now: not really stable. I still want to get some better results for my occasional flash photography, especially with christmas coming. I almost pulled the trigger on a Nissin i40 but decided to wait a bit until the dust settles around the Air1 for Fuji, this being an option, but still looking into Godox and Cactus as well. I have an EF-X20 but it doesn't bounce, and I'm always frustrated with on-camera flash. Fortunately, the EF-X20 can be triggered optically. So I figured out this simple set-up: I fixed the EF-X20 on a small GorillaPod I had lying around, and added a "White Foamy Thing" ;-) which basically is a piece of thin package foam, semi-translucent. I fixed it with Velcro, but a simple rubber band would do as well of course. The EF-X20 in P-mode, and is triggered by the EF-X8 on-camera on my X-T1, in TTL mode.
It's a very handy little setup, because you can place it absolutely anywhere, and the GorillaPod can act like a simple tripod, or you can fix it to a pole or whatever. Now the EF-X20 can bounce! The white foam being semi-translucent, it bounces forward, but also a bit backwards, you can place it behind something out of the camera's view but in the middle of a scene or the room. It's superlight and small, so it's very unencumbering abd fast to handle, perfect for a family gathering. For my living room, I set the EF-X20 to 1/8th power, and the TTL at -1 2/3, with the ambient underexposed by 2 stops (but that's to taste, did that for the exaple shots). Other camera settings are full manual except AF so I don't have to bother with that. I just take care to put the flash between 1.5 and 2 meters from the subject and all is fine. This is how it looks, very simple:
and here are some test shots :
Top left: ambient only
Bottom left: on-camera EF-X8 only @ -1 2/3 FC
Top right: added the EF-X20 bounced (like the pics above, placed at 1.5 meters to the left of the fruit bowl on some furniture), reflector towards the subject, bounced on the ceiling, 2.5 meters high)
Bottom right: ordinary on-camera only, TTL, no FC (typical harsh flash)
(All photos are slightly underexposed, I know but that's no issue, I always underexpose a stop to gain some SS and always shoot raw, but these are the OOC's)
It's easy to see the difference between the two rightmost pics: it's certainly not studio work, not comparable to softboxes and the like but definitely an improvement over on-camera non-bounced flash, much softer, no harsh shadows . And super flexible to use: just pick it up and put the thing somewhere convenient and shoot away.
(all 4 exposures are of course the same: ISO 800, f6.4, 1/60th. X-T1 with 10-24mm@24mm)
Nothing genius, but I didn't spend a dime on it so I can get past Christmas and avoid making investment choices in hurry, not being sure at all about what system suits me best!
I have a cheap Neewer Speedlite 750II that I've been forced to use in full manual, on-camera at weddings and events. I'm using an XE-2 and an XT-1 currently, but that will soon change to an XT-2 as my main and the XT1 as my secondary. I want to buy something that will trigger the flash(es) remotely from the camera so I can do some off-camera portraiture. Reliability is a key factor here.
Being new to the whole radio trigger deal (admittedly, being pretty new to flashes in general) and not really knowing what I'm doing in the first place, can someone tell me what will work with this (and future) cameras and flashes?
Basically just looking to buy something and don't want a lot of technical jargon, need to purchase quickly. I am under the assumption that TTL is not an option here. Just sick of trying to guess my flash exposure all the time.. Is there a financial range of these things as well? Looking for a more mid-range option, not some chintzy thing that will break in two years or become outdated as new gear releases. I have been investigating the pocket wizards lately as they're a sort of key-word around these parts.
This is my first post here, but I've long been a silent lurker in the background checking all the wonderful tips, photos and news in this Fuji forum!
The Fuji X100s was my introduction to the Fuji world and i've never looked back. There has always been something special about the X100 line and something very 'pure' and rewarding when you get those incredible images from that incredible camera. The Fuji X100s was my way into the Fuji system without having to buy all the lenses. I have an extensive Nikon line up for work, but always loved the idea of the X100 with its one lens approach.
Unfortunately a few months ago, my X100s took a tumble whilst on holidays and died. I was heart broken and wanted to share some final images from my little X100s. I've since replaced the S with the T and i'm liking it so far. There are a few quirks and moments of confusion when using it, but most of that is just unfamiliarity with the button layouts and slight menu changes.
I hope you enjoy the small selection of my favourite X100s photos, more photos and ramblings can be seen on my blog. Chris lives here.: The king is dead
just opened my new x100t and saw the dials are a bit loose. I have a video of it here:
is this normal? I'm not nitpicky, but I am wondering if this could get worse and maybe let in dust or even fall off eventually.
Given all the confusion around Fuji flashes, I'm hoping someone can guide me to purchase my first-ever flash unit. Although as my first unit this will initially serve as an opportunity to learn using flash, I'd like to avoid buying a second one in the future, so I'll rather get the "best" for my needs, ignoring the Benjamins$$$.
I'm an enthusiast, and am mainly interested in flash for friends/family portraits, no pro or paid work. In all likelihood I'll probably not be doing off-camera flash, so lack of a wireless radio trigger is not a dealbreaker.
I'm interested in using flash on my X-T1 but also potentially on an X-T2 in the future. Nissin i60 has a more powerful guide number than the Fuji EF-X500, yet it's cheaper and has radio capability. Am I better off with Nissin or the Fuji flash? I also hear Metz had a new system announced recently.
So I'll admit: the lure of the Sony A7Rii pulled me away from my Fuji X-T1. I tried it for a few months. It was good. But not good enough to keep me. I came back to the beautiful looking images, the fantastic feel in-hand, and the quality lenses of the Fuji! (anyone looking to buy a very slightly used A7Rii and several lenses as a nice Christmas present?) Fortunately, I kept all my Fuji equipment.
I'm in Hawaii and today was the 75th anniversary of the attack on Pearl Harbor. I was on Ford Island with my wife to commemorate the loss and sacrifice which dragged us into WWII. Here is a shot taken with my X-T1 and 18-55 lens.
It feels good to be back!
USS ARIZONA Memorial Sunrise by resheasby, on Flickr
Even though I do like street, when it hovers around freezing, downtown Indy around the park and museum district, it is empty.....So, I went to a park today for B&W landscape type images.
My Camera, Nikon F2, Tamron AF/LD 28-200 f/3.8-5.6 Ais, Eastman XX5222 at 400, TMax Developer 1:4
I got the lens for $8.00 shipping in a XMas Give-A-Way on another photography site, the same one last year where I got the Nikon F2 for $10.00 !!
Ps-Lr-12-5-2016-Tamron 28-200 test on F2-xx5222 400-Tmax 1to4-017 by Peter Arbib -My General Galleries, on Flickr
Ps-Lr-12-5-2016-Tamron 28-200 test on F2-xx5222 400-Tmax 1to4-010 by Peter Arbib -My General Galleries, on Flickr
Ps-Lr-12-5-2016-Tamron 28-200 test on F2-xx5222 400-Tmax 1to4-001 by Peter Arbib -My General Galleries, on Flickr
What do you Street Photographers photograph when it's too cold?
Is there any way to being tethered by wifi to an Android tablet and use the camera as usual and also let the client watch the images on the tablet as I shoot? I have given up tethering my XE2 to a pc since its just to complicated.
EDIT: ooops wrong forum. Please move to XE2 forum moderator
A funny thing happened on the walk. More here.
Has anyone here used more than 1 copy of XF 23mm f/1.4 and noticed a difference in optical performance? I got this lens recently and somehow it feels like it doesn't quite match up with what I expected out of it based on the glowing reviews it gets. I think my 35mm f/1.4 does better, and 23mm f/1.4 is supposed to be (according to forum opinions) the better lens. Just curious if my sample is somehow worse (decentered or whatever else). Specifically close-up performance at large apertures is so-so.
I won't post samples, because it's pointless to do so (one person's subjective "great" is another's "meh"); I'm only interested in whether someone else has gone through more than one copy and could comment on any perceived differences.
We had our Advent evening in town recently with market stalls, singing and the lights being turned on - took the XT2 with 16-55 and the Fuji EF-X500 flash.
I set the ISO to 200, Aperture priority between f2.8 - f5.6 so the camera decided what it wanted from the flash (shop windows and some street without flash).
Interesting mix of friendly people with hot food, wine and other wonderful sights - a very well attended evening that all enjoyed.
Is there any vintage hidden gems out there that are worth considering? Trying to get a pretty fast 85mm to adapt to my xpro1 for some great headshots. Im considering the Tamron Sp 90mm f2.5. any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks.
Budget is 300 usd
I would like to add a layer of padding to the bottom of my Domke F-803 bag. I will need a piece about 4" X 13" and maybe a half inch thick. Any recommendations on what type to use and where to find that? Thanks
I recently purchased an x-pro2 and having been an avid Fuji fan I have managed to accumulate a lot of Fuji cameras.
I confess to buying to satisfy my gadget geeky needs and not using or using infrequently.
Finally I have decided to sell off some cameras. All of these are in pristine condition and in one case still brand new.
Would appreciate some guidance on where to sell these:
Fuji Xt1 body. Brand new and still boxed with Fuji seal intact
Fuji Xt1 body plus vertical battery grip. 6 months old and lightly used. Absolutely perfect condition. No box.
Fuji xt-10 body. As above without the grip
Fuji x70 silver. Boxed and used only ever indoors. Could pass for being brand new.
And guidance is much appreciated and of course I can provide photos etc
All of these were purchased from Amazon.com and are US models
I recently purchased a "like new" 16-55 lens and was surprised to see about 6 small specs of dust inside the lens rear elements. Looking at my other WR lens (16mm, 35mm, and 18-135mm) I cannot see any dust.
I know lens dust is something we have to live with if we want to actually use our lenses, but was surprised to see dust in a WR lens that is in otherwise immaculate condition. "Weather Resistance" is not "Weather Proof", but is dust something we should expect to see in the WR lenses as we would with any other?
And if you were me, would the dust be a deal breaker for a lens that was advertised as "like new"? It is in otherwise perfect shape.