When I import JPEGs to Lightroom, the Camera Profile is listed as 'Embedded," and I am unable to change it. That's fine, but what bothers me is that I can find no indication in Lightroom of what film simulation I used in the camera. If I used Acros with green filter, or Astia, or some other simulation, is there any way that information can be retrieved from the JPEG in Lightroom, or do I just have to remember it as I shot it? I'm able to apply the Fuji camera profiles to imported RAW files, so that is not an issue. It's only the JPEGs that are causing me confusion. Any thoughts or suggestions?
My 18mm has been the lens affixed to my X-E2 for the great majority of the summer. I don't know if the X-E2 firmware upgrade has made a difference but I just can't fault the lens.
Winter Gardens - if James T Kirk had been a gardener I'd reckon he'd have worked in Glasgow. Our 2 major greenhouses look like glass spaceships to my mind.
Templeton Business Park - originally in the early 1900's this was built as a carpet factory
Today I was out with my X-T2 and suddenly neither Zone nor Wide-Tracking worked correctly in AF-C. On initial focus it showed a few green squares but after a second these would disappear and nothing happened, certainly no tracking. I tried all variations like boost on/off, camera on/off but nothing helped. AF-S worked fine.
Then I noticed the battery was down to 1 bar. I changed the battery and everything was good again. This was with a Wasabi battery, not the original Fuji. I'll have to see if the Fuji shows the same behavior.
Has anybody else seen something like this?
On my new xt2 I tried the wireless remote using an ipad and an iphone and they both worked fine.
An hour or so later I tried again in the same location and have the following problem with both ipad and iphone.
The wireless connection connects ok, you can tap to focus, when you press the shutter a picture is taken, everything looks good then the problem starts.
If you tap to refocus again or try the shutter release, a message comes up saying Processing, ok.
After 10 minutes nothing has changed.
I am using raw plus normal jpeg with the image option to resize for iphone set.
I have reset the wireless router and modem, both apple devices and the camera numerous times and the problem is the same. Cant understand how it worked the first time I tried it
Can anyone help please.
Not sure of the forum rules but thought i'd better start a new thread.
Long story short, i've always bought lens from new but ended up buying a secondhand xf23 1.4.
Been testing against my other lens and i would say it's just about sharp but not what i would say tack sharp (compared to my 35 or 56). Unfortunately i'm not in a position to return it so that isn't an option.
is it better to take it to a lens repair shop for them to check it out or just send straight to fuji? (No warranty)
Also do you think it could be a lens/firmware issue with the new xt2 or v unlikely?
Can anyone offer any advice on best course of action?
I have been using the X-T2 for about 2 weeks now and love it. With the battery grip it is like a mini Nikon D3s. This has gotten me thinking on the future of this lineup. To take advantage of the full potential of the camera, you need the battery grip. Why not make the X-Tx line a fully performance camera with built in battery grip and then the X-Txx line can be the prosumer camera?
I very much appreciate the extended battery shooting with the 3 batteries. However, you deal with 3 batteries. I would like to see one high capacity battery. Fuji could make one now for the X-T2 battery grip. That battery could be used in the future X-T3 with a built in battery grip.
The X-T30 could then move in just under the X-Pro3 category so they don't have 2 cameras in the same high end price point. Basically Fuji could have the X-T3 at the 2k price point, X-Pro 3 at the 1600k price point and the X-T30 around the 1k price point.
For the lower end if Fuji wants that market, although it doesn't seem like they do, then they could have the X-E3.
Hello, new member here...
I have search this site and google in general for an answer to the problem I am having with my X-E2.
I used the AF-Lock and now I can't get the AF-Lock to unlock. I think I have tried everything! When I go to change the focus point by pressing the "AF" button on the bottom toggle, a padlock symbol/ON appears in the middle of the screen, and I am unable to change where I am focusing in the frame. Can anyone tell me how to unlock this??? I thought I just need to press the AF-L button again, but no, that is not working.
Thanks for your help!
Could anyone send me few shots in RAW? I'm searching the Internet and I found only jpegs.
What I need is just few shots. Whatever on it, maybe shot from your window, architecture, some vacations, still life. Would be nice if images was taken @ 25 mm eq. / f about 4,0-5,6 / ISO 200-400-800. Wetransfer or Sendit or similar.
Does anyone know if Fuji has studied the materials in their lenses, particularly the WR lenses, for outgassing over time or at extended top-of-temperature-range use?
Lubricants and soft materials can wreak havoc. Been shooting for over 40 years and have had GREAT lenses like Leicas fog up. As a retired aerospace engineer/optical physicist I know there are accelerated tests for this.
My WR lenses probably outlast me, but I'd love to know. Some lubricant issues show up over only a few years.
I am so glad that Fuji finally introduced the much rumored medium format camera system. Although I admire the new platform, the price, size and bulk of medium format puts it way outside my area of lust.
Thankfully, my GAS gets a reprieve as does my wallet for now. Thank you Fuji!
I recently purchased a XF-56 second hand to replace a 50mm f1.4 manual Rokkor Minolta fit lens I had been using for portraits for about a year.
I had used the Minolta with the EF-X20 in manual mode, adjusting the flash power according to distance/aperture which worked fine with some stunning results. The main reason I went for the XF-56 was so I could use the flash in auto mode and save me having to mess with the settings, shooting people dancing and moving is rather tricky if you are using manual focus and flash!
I got the chance to use my XF56 for the first time last night but I immediately ran into problems where the flash was under/over exposing excessively. Not just a little out, we're talking white-out or almost black shots shot! I could take exactly the same shot again and every time the flash would behave differently, it was like the Flash was ignoring the settings?
I tried to switch to my XF-23 thinking maybe the XF56 was at fault but I ran into the same issues. I am sure I have used the XF23 with the flah in auto mode before but I don't use the flash much with the XF23 as I use the flash for portrait shots with the 50mm Rokkor.
I then tried switching the EF-X20 back to good old manual mode and everything was fine, I could throttle the flash power up and down and it worked exactly as it should.
I am thinking that the link between the flash and the X-T1 is intermittent and the flash isn't getting information from the camera about how much throttle to use.
Has anyone else had similar issues?
Thanks in advance for any help!
I know many photographers seem to be drawn to cemeteries so I thought it might be interesting to see some images taken with Fuji cameras of cemeteries and grave sites. Cemeteries can be so different the world over and since this is an international group of Fuji shooters...well post some shots.
I'll start with one. I stopped at a cemetery a few days ago and came upon a revolutionary war(1775-1783) soldier's grave.
and one more..
I am using and x-e2 and an x100s. I use Lightroom for post processing and I shoot raw.
I am curious if others find the shadow areas of your photos to be too dark out of camera. The shadows seems to be quite deep and I am often using the shadow slider to open them up a bit. I know the tone curve used by Fuji tends to make the photos more "punchy" which many people prefer. I find these deep shadows to be there with any film simulation, even pro neg standard.
I don't consider this to be a problem as it is easily fixed upon import in Lightroom or when tweaking an image. I'm just wondering if others find the lower end of the curve perhaps a bit too hard or steep out of camera and then have to open the shadows up often(not always) in post.
Why do you mainly use it, and under what circumstances?
I mainly use the evf, but wonder if I'm missing something. I feel like I just don't know how to properly use the parallax optical viewfinder.
I've been loving my xpro 2, but suddenly, I can't get the shutter to drop below 1"! Even when I'm on T, or Bulb or using the Fuji remote app to trigger the shutter from my smart phone. I've shot hundreds of photos with shutters as slow as 30 seconds, and suddenly, it just will not go below 1 second! Any tips? Has anyone else experienced this?? I just keep thinking I must have some strange setting in place accidentally, but I can't find anything! Any help would be so appreciated!
(We're on day 120 of a cross country trip right now, and I'm so bummed that I missed the most amazing shots last in Oregon at Cannon Beach! Hoping to get this resolved ASAP!)
Working on my next book and exhibition and the latest section is shot. All shot on X-Pro 2s and a lot using the Zeiss Touit 12mm 2.8mm Distagon you can see a post about it here
I have an xt-10 and wanted to ask if it's possible to remove the "advanced filters " after using them by mistake?
Is it a USB (A) to Micro (B) cable that I need for my X-T1 for tethering?
What do you think?
Nice or not?
Hi. Although a long term T1 user, I never setup the custom setting banks. Now I have the T2 I am keen to do so as I'd like to switch between say Wildlife and Street settings, but I wonder if anyone can help advise me to see if I can achieve what I want please?
Does it work the same as Nikon custom banks where I can set up a custom bank for e.g wildlife, landscape, portrait etc settings with numerous different settings within each bank. So, as an example I'd like to have a custom bank I can switch to which contains multiple selections. Example:
Custom Bank 2 - Wildlife
Shutter = Electronic
Focus = AF-C
ISO = auto low 200 high 800
Focus points = ?
AF Tracking = ON
I may be way off track here, but put simply can I use a custom bank which contains numerous settings, or is this beyond the Fuji X capabilities?
I am still playing with my new XT2 and leaving on a trip soon. I have my SD card slots set to sequential (and I do want it to save to one card and then to the second when full) but, I have noticed that my card is set on the #2 slot first. On my old Canon, it was easy to decide which card I wanted it to start on, but I can't seem to see where I can change it from Slot 2 to Slot 1. Any ideas? Thanks
I use my phone a lot for photography, sometimes more often than my Fuji X100T. I like it because is with me all the time and the quality is good for what I do. Right now I have like 2,000 images on my smartphone from the last 2 months.
I`m not a gear guy, I make images with what camera I have in my hand or pocket.
Here is a small selection, I will add more after.
and cannot wait until tomorrow to open it. Must because of work...and that is kind of ok. Have been waiting a long time so 2 days more are ok and a nice goal.
I'm coming from the Xp1 so I have (too..)many expectations. I feel kind of nervous but of course in a good way.
I promised the XP1 that I will never leave it but no doubt about it; There is gonna be a new viewfinder in town
Two weeks ago, my girlfriend and I went to Swedish Lapland to climb mount Kebnekaise, the highest peak in Sweden. From the Sami village of Nikkaluokta it is a one day trek to the mountain station, than one full day of climbing and descending Kebnekaise (and an intermediate summit, Vierranvarri), which takes 10-14 hours, and another day back to Nikkaluokta. We were in luck. It has been said that northern Sweden only knows one week of autumn, and we were smack in the middle of it, including all the colours that autumn brings.
As we would be camping all the way, and had to carry all our equipment during hiking (but not during climbing Kebnekaise itself), weight was an issue. However, I definitely didn't want to leave my camera behind, so I decided to take my XT-1, the 16-55 and the 12 mm Samyang. The XT-1 and 16-55 also accompanied me to the summit. To be able to use my trekking poles and still be able to take photographs on the fly, I used the Peak Design Capture Pro clip to attach the camera to my backpack, and during the climb to my belt. I also used the Peak Design Shell to protect it from the snowdrift that fell during our climb. This system worked perfectly, and I couldn't be happier with it!
Due to other engagements, I haven't been able to fully sort out all the images I took, but I would like to share a few with you. I hope you like them, and I can only say that the images probably do not do justice to the beauty of this wonderful journey.
We won't be seeing these in our back yard much longer for this year. Guess I can look at photos as the season changes. This was captured yesterday with my X-T2 and 90mm lens.
The 2.5mm male to 3.5mm female adapter that can be found on ebay where the 2.5mm has three black rings like the ones for smartphones, will they work to record video sound in to the camera?
Cameras of today have pretty sophisticated light measuring tools. Which leads me to question how many folks still use a hand-held light meter.
I recently stumbled upon a review of a Sekonic LiteMaster Pro light meter that measures flash percentage which I thought was a brilliant, (no pun intended), idea. Adding to the intrigue is the fact that this meter can also can trigger a Pocketwizard. And for those of you shooting video, would one of these new meters be useful?
Anybody able to chime in and advise?
As usual, back to Fuji X I come...
I've purchased a Fuji X70 off of ebay with 2 batteriers, hood & filter adapter and a filter for a nice £400 delivered. It even came with the oiginal £499 receipt from Currys.
Now, the camera is only 2 weeks old according to the receipt, and the camera does look like brand new, but; the screen is lifting on one side and is not flush like the other side is. You can't quite get your fingernail under it but it's damn close. If you push it back down it stays there for a little while but then soon pops back out.
My questions are:
1) Has anybody else got this problem?
2) If you were in my position, would you just keep it and live with it or send it back to the seller?