Received 2nd sample of Samyang 50mm f1.2 from other seller today. And it's also defective : (
My first sample was optically perfect, but I noticed strange white marks near the aperture inside lens and sent it back. Now I think it was good lens : )
Unfortunately the second sample has visible optical misalignment. It is harder to focus with it so decided to test using approach described on Lensrentals .
I've just downloaded Siemens Star Chart PDF and aligned camera with lens on heavy tripod targeted to it's center.
Samyang 50mm f1.2 - in focus (at f1.2). You can see that fringing is directed from upper left to bottom right
Samyang 50mm f1.2 - slightly unfocused (at f1.2). Diagonal fringing is more visible here.
One interesting thing. My first sample came with Quality Certificate card and SN sticker on it. So looks like first sample was properly tested and optically aligned.
But second sample does not have Quality Certificate - that's indicator that lens is not factory tested.
I also have Samyang 21mm f1.4, just tested it on same chart and there are no such issue. This sample also has Quality Certificate.
So in case you decide to buy Samyang/Rokinon lens, it's highly recommended to check if Quality Certificate is included.
It's also helpful to run this simple test to check the lens alignment.
i have just bought the 10-24 f4.
I can't try it until saturday but if a gently move the lens i can hear a rattle sound from inside.
No skratches in front or rear element.
I own tamron and nikon lenses with image stabilization and they also produce this sound but on the 10-24 is more pronounced.
Do you experienced that?Is it normal?
Thank you for responses
Meant to try out the X70 this evening but its 18mm was far too wide for the essential part of this sunset over Porthcawl and Swansea Bay. Glad I took the 50-140mm as well - at f/8 it kept the foreground reasonably sharp and was useful for the second shot of the sheep, which I could swear were suddenly fearless as if transfixed by the glow from the setting sun...
Build quality 7/10
Generally good, but every single switch, dial and button is a bit loose/wobbly. The device feels a bit fragile overall. LCD should have been made of glass. Perhaps it's unfair to prognosticate, but I can't see all this camera's dials and switches still being functional after 5 years of use. Have to confirm all settings before taking a shot, because everything is so easily bumped.
This isn't as bad as I thought it would be. Yes, the command dials are recessed, but I have no trouble operating them. I have size XXXL hands, BTW. I think the people who say they have 'big hands' really might be using the words as euphemism for fat fingers and/or chewed fingernails. Still less ergonomic than other brands, though, and a camera this large really has no excuse to have petite controls. More troublesome is the fact that e.g. zooming in on a photo in playback mode takes many turns of the dial. Way more precise than it needs to be.
AF-L button is indeed in the worst possible location. The AE-L button, however, is located in a fairly natural position to be used as AF-L, for my fingers anyway.
This camera cannot be operated with one hand, which is a bit of a step in the wrong direction in my opinion.
That ISO Dial, though... I think this should win the 2015/2016 bad product design award. It is waaay worse than I imagined it could be. Like many of us, I'm well acquainted with film cameras featuring this kind of dial. It worked fine for film, where you might literally NEVER change the ISO setting after you took the camera out of the box (used to shoot a lot of 400 myself). This dial is worse than useless. It's worse than nothing, because you can't even change the ISO via them menu system. Fuji really jumped the shark on this one. Weren't they supposed to have gotten feedback from working photographers on this design? I'd like to know just who signed off on it... So bad. You can't just turn it continuously. You have to pick it up, turn a few notches, set it down, reset your grip, lift again... You want to go from ISO 200 to ISO 6400? See you in a minute and a half. Yes, there's the auto-ISO work around, but why did you pay a premium for a camera oriented towards full manual control just to end up using auto ISO?
And I'm really missing the tilt screen from the X70 on the X-Pro2...
Regarding the focus lever/stick: I'm not sure why people made such a big deal about this. In practice it's just as many clicks as using a d-pad. I appreciate the effort, but this doesn't increase the usability as much as I thought it would. It really is just a joystick (that is, 4 switches with a stick on top). I guess I expected it to be more like an IBM/Lenovo trackpoint with force-sensing given the way it was hyped.
Size/Weight for what it is: 7/10
This thing is very light for its size (or, conversely, big for its weight). With lens mounted, it's no smaller than an APS-C DSLR, but a slightly more Tetris-block like shape. It's pretty much exactly the same size as my Yashica Electro 35 rangefinder (my favorite walk-around camera from bygone days), but probably half the weight.
In the backpacking world, one learns that the lighter, cheaper, and flimsier and more flammable something is, the more it costs. I'd liken the X-Pro2 to this. If I didn't know how much I paid for it, it would feel cheap (much like a $100 Titanium pot a cuben fiber tarp).
The fact that it's half the weight is more than half of the reason for buying it, though, so no complaints there. Could've been a bit smaller though.
Autofocus is decent. No complaints so far. Much better than the X70. Feels like a DSLR.
The camera doesn't get warm unless recording video. I did get an "Maximum Internal Temperature" warning after recording 3 minutes of 1080P 60 video (indoors). So it looks like Sony isn't the only one having this overheating issue.
I haven't really noticed any difference between High and Economy performance modes.
I agree with everyone who said the EVF is too cool/bluish. Very jarring. It's also too contrasty/too lower color depth. Turning "PREVIEW PIC EFFECT" off makes it less of an issue. Overall, I'd say the EVF was a bit disappointing. Reminds me of a 90's camcorder. However, regarding size, I think the people who claimed it was small were doing so in comparison to the X-T1. The X-Pro2's viewfinder is approx the same size as an APS-C DSLR. So, not small. Not huge either. BTW, I wear glasses and I can see the entire thing, with just a bit of vingetting in the corners. Also the same as most DSLRs.
Like the X70, the X-Pro2 is very picky about which memory cards it works with, producing "Write Errors" with all but one of my cards (32GB Pny Turbo).
It's OK. Honestly I can't see much of a difference between this and the X70. 24 vs 16 megapixels... It's subtle. I haven't given it a thorough shakeout yet, but I'd say if you're hoping for an IQ upgrade, look elsewhere or keep waiting.
Noise performance is perhaps a bit better than some other APS-C cameras in its class (although this is a very muddy subject due to the special demosaicing and noise reduction required by X-Trans as well as the lower blue/red resolution). But, and this is a gotcha that I only just realized, the sensor is smaller than APS-C from other brands!--much like Canon--so you take a small hit on total light at the same time.
That being said, I'm sure it's in the top of the class, but the difference from the previous (16MP) generation is not going to blow you away.
Wrapping it up:
That's all I have at the moment--perhaps there will be more to come. Overall I'd say it's a nice camera, but it doesn't seem to be worth its price given what the competition is offering. Style (and price!) is high, ergonomics are middling, technology is low (aside from the unique hybrid viewfinder).
Long time XT-1 owner. I rented a 100-400 to take photos of an airshow this weekend. Does anybody have experience with this? Whats the best settings? I've tried a bunch of things for fast moving planes and some are good but none are great. Single or continuous focus? Focal point, single, multiple or continues follow? If set to continuous track whats the difference if you have the focus switch on single on continuous? I would think the best settings would be having the continuous switch on and the continuous tracking setting on auto focus. that setting was good, but not great. it had problems locking on to the target initially. thoughts?
Has anyone else noticed that the X-Pro2's pixel mapping function is ineffective?
With long exposure NR off and after invoking the pixel mapping function, all the hot pixels visible in the RAW file (my X-Pro2 has 28!) are also visible in the camera JPEGs (perhaps a little dimmer).
I got my X-T1 a few days ago, and right now I have no native lenses for it, only adapted ones. So, I'm starting out with a blank sheet of paper here. I have the camera, and I have an Ona Bowery bag (which is lovely, by the way) with room for about three lenses, as long as none of them are really excessively large.
I have to admit I'm on a bit of a nostalgia trip, which is what drew me to the X-T1 in the first place. I'm pondering prime lenses and something like the classic 3-lens reporter's kit of 28mm, 50mm, 135mm. I'm still learning my way around the Fuji-X catalog, but right now I am thinking about. . .
I have, in fact, already placed an order for the 35mm f/2, because it just seemed like such an obvious choice. (It's back-ordered, though, so that may be A While.) The other two are well-reputed, as far as I can tell?
- Fujifilm XF 16mm f/1.4 R WR
- Fujifilm XF 35mm f/2 WR
- Fujifilm XF 90mm f/2 R LM WR
What does the R in "R LM WR" stand for, I wonder? 90mm seems a bit short by today's standards, perhaps. . . Although, I guess if I ever need to go longer, I can either get a zoom or I can use an adapted lens for that.
So I've read a few threads on the sweep back to film. Point is to go all manual, dig the grain, force your technique and become a better photographer. Even at a price. And FWIW, I get it. Maybe.
Problem is that when you start looking around at how and what, the $'s start to add up a lot quicker than needed or expected. All sorts of things start creeping in... like expectations. Oddly (?), I think the folks offering encouragement tend to have made the decision that this is their main or important deal, so the advice tends to run toward higher end. Temptation of course is that all that high end stuff isn't so crazy expensive any more.
Yet the one thing I'd say I don't need at this point is more hardware to solve my user issues. I'd have to think of this as a sideline to my Fuji-X adventures, and try to limit it to $500 or so. In 120mm Medium Format (well, because it looks to be cheaper than 35mm!!! amazingly enough) there are some Fuji cameras, but the lenses.... ain't cheap at the wide end... so I'd say I'm paused out. Having pretty much tricked out my Fuji-X gear and over exercised my wallet for a while... a long while... I think I just want to shoot what I have. Leave it at that. Grab the all-manual experience by going all manual on the camera settings and not add new gear, new problems and all the rest until some other day. Maybe next year... or the year after.
So the Film Simplicity bit can simply feed another hardware GAS to scratch. Not going there... for now.
I don't know if this is the right place to post this, but I do some experimenting with Lightroom and Topaz Impression. Rather than settling for one of the presets I alter the parameters to create my own version.
I know that not everyone will like this but I have had considerable positive response from various people.
Hi all !!!
I would like to share with you a little trick to use SP7 as a plugin for LR or CO to demosaic and sharpen the raf file the same way you use PhotoNinja as a plugin for LR (tested ONLY with Windows 7 as I don't have an win 8/10 installed).
First of all I have to say that I just adapted a piece of code found (after a long long search) in another forum so the medal for this goes to the original poster in the dpreview forum.
With this little piece of code (saved as a batch file) when you choose to export an image in SP7, Lightroom will render a TIFF (or JPEG) from the raf file and send it to SP7. The problem is that we want to use SP7 to demosaic and sharpen the original RAF (where LR is not as good as SP7).
With this little .bat file you force SP7 to ignore the TIFF and open the RAF file directly; after the demosaicing and sharpening (and whatever else you want to do within SP7) you can "develop" and overwrite the original TIFF created from LR. The advantage is that in LR you will have the tif and the original RAF in the same collection (album?) and you can easily compare the different renderings.
Unfortunately the .bat file is not recognized from Capture One but it's very easy to create an EXE file form the BAT and use SP7 with Capture One in the same manner....
This is the CODE to copy and paste in a text editor and save with the name you want (I named it LR_SP.bat)
Just modify it with the obvious personal settings:
silkypix exec folder, silkypix exec name.... just read the REM parts of the code...
I'm as your disposal to sort out any problem....Code:@echo off REM put your RAW extension here SET _rawexten=.raf REM put your custom extension here. for example if lightroom is configured to generate a new file named DSCF9999-XX.tif, the custom extension is -XX SET _customext=-sp REM choose a jpeg quality level SET _jpegquality=100 REM put your silkypix exec folder here. name must be in quotes SET _silkypix_folder="C:\Program Files\ISL\SILKYPIX Developer Studio Pro 7 English\" REM silkypix exec name SET _silkypix_exec=SILKYPIX_DS_PRO7.exe REM silkypix.exe runtime output and error output logs SET _runtimeout="%TEMP%"\silky.txt SET _runtimeerr="%TEMP%"\silkyerror.txt SET _extension=%~x1 SET _inputfile=%~dpn1 SETLOCAL enabledelayedexpansion REM removes customextension from input file SET _rawfile=!_inputfile:%_customext%=! pushd %_silkypix_folder% echo Edit raw file then close program. Processing settings need to be saved to sidecar next to image (.pp3) start /wait %_silkypix_exec% "%_rawfile%%_rawexten%" > %_runtimeout% 2> %_runtimeerr% if "%_extension%" == ".tif" SET _outputformat=-t if "%_extension%" == ".jpg" SET _outputformat=-j%_jpegquality% echo. echo Processing the just-edited raw file using the sidecar, outputting to same input filename. Output file automatically overwritten! echo. echo on REM start /B cmd /c %_silkypix_exec% -o "%_rawfile%%_customext%%_extension%" -s %_outputformat% -Y -c "%_rawfile%%_rawexten%" ^> %_runtimeout% 2^> %_runtimeerr% popd :EXIT
I'm trying to establish if I could get on using 18mm.....before I decide to buy an X70....so went out with the X-M1 and 18 prime....a small package but I want something pocketable. I'm fairly pleased with the results...
untitled shoot-009-8.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
untitled shoot-056-3.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
untitled shoot-002-10.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
I have had an hard time to get close or even friends with my X-Pro2. My normal work does not demand fast AF usually. But every year I have to do the horse races at the Turf Aarau days. So my past experiences was with the EOS 5DmkII, which was not as fast as it needed to be if you don't use counter techniques. Next the X-Pro1 was not fast enough but played well with counter techniques and I did some very nice pictures. The X-T1 was as well not fast enough and bitchy if not used PDAF sensors, this had the result that I had to use two different counter techniques witch made the X-Pro1 easier to handle as the X-T1. Still there is no reason to cry. I would have to do the job even if I had to use an Leica M3 and there is only one issue to change films all the time.
This year I took the X-Pro2 with me. I was wondering if the autofocus does do better as the X-T1.
AFS with single mode release gave me a good feeling, AFC had to be tested where the X-T1 always failed, yes the X-Pro2 can do this well. Following lenses I have used. XF90mmF2 and XF50-140mmF2.8 both lenses focus very quick and accurate. I would say the XF90mm is faster as the XF50-140mm by quite a bit.
I have to admit that I took it easy that day as I was very tired and exhausted, I spared on the creativity and I was very happy that finally I have an camera in my hands I can blindly trust to catch the focus and the joystick was an pleasure to use. The X-Pro2 did ease my day significantly. If it will lead to an love affair? We will see, I still have some open points with developing raw and the noise, but as soon I have all my settings sorted out there might be nothing in the way to get closer to the X-Pro2.
The first race and I was not sure if the X-Pro2 will do it better as the X-T1.
by Andre Schwaller, on Flickr
Still not a lot faster as pony races... the X-Pro2 does not feel to be in any pressure.
Race 3 by Andre Schwaller, on Flickr
Ok an challenge for the X-Pro2 here is the fastest race. Now we use F2.8. Still no problem to follow with focus.
Race 7 by Andre Schwaller, on Flickr
I just have changed the lens and I was by far to close to the horse. This picture has been taken just after I have turned my around, there was no time to think just get an image... we have some motion blur because e I did not follow as nice as I had to do, but the AF was spot on and the X-Pro2 nailed that thing.
Race 8 by Andre Schwaller, on Flickr
Seems it's not supported natively on the Xp1, are there any hacks or work arounds that make it somewhat possible?
has anyone heard of this and is it indeed possible?? That would be cool. I have a GS245s...
After years and years of using Nikon I started using a Fuji 3 years ago. Then I went back to Nikon and now added back Fuji into the mix. I used the XE series as well as the XT1. I don't use camera straps and haven't really used any straps in about 10 years. I discovered yesterday that I ended up defaulting to a death grip on the camera with my right hand, whether holding the camera or shooting it. No wonder the grip was uncomfortable (I'm using the XT1 arca-swiss grip) for long periods.
I decided yesterday to start relaxing my shooting hand more and be more careful with my left hand placement. It seems to have made a lot of difference in both stability and comfort. I posted this because I bet there's someone else who got used to a death grip on their camera and hasn't realized it yet. Anyone else discover any bad habits left over from DSLR usage that you subconsciously applied to the Fuji world?
Yesterday I bought the 16mm f1.4 R WR lens, this makes three lenses (16mm f1.4, 23mm f1.4 and 35mm f2) for my recently acquired X-Pro2 and is pretty much all I need. I like what I see from the 16mm straight away, it'll be getting a lot of use. Here are the first two images I took with it. Comments and critique are welcome:
The Tyne at low tide by Mark Corpe, on Flickr
The Tyne at low tide II by Mark Corpe, on Flickr
I am sort of on the search for a lens that will give me a little more reach for wildlife photography. The Tamron 150-600 SP seems to be a pretty good lens for the price. Has anyone used it on their X-mount? I would probably get the Canon EF mount since my son also has an A2 film camera, or... I could put it on the A2, use it there...
Looking for feedback on this and also if anyone has a good recommendation for a lens that would suit my purpose. Unfortunately the Fuji 100-400 plus extender and I can't use the extender on the 55-200, is a bit pricey for me at this point. And I'm not really in the market for a full frame Canon, yet.
Is there a way to find out which RAW-->Jpeg settings was used to get an image? I know I can read it if I view the image on the back om my X-Pro1 (Button up), but is there a way to read this info om my desktop (i.e. lightroom?). The settings I am talking about are the Noise, Colour, sharpness etc etc settings I can set un my qmenu.
Just received my new fuji XT1 battery grip, which i will be using for weddings, christinings and the such (Not pro work, because i am not a pro, just 4 friends and family, and mainly 4 fun).
The first pic is with the battery grip, long eye cup, and XE2 thumb rest?, which is only on my XT1 to cover the flash contacts, (lost the original cover), but it looks kinda cool, lol.
the second and third pics are the same but with my Nissin i40 flash.
I have to say, the battery grip helps so much with the handling of my XT1, but does not add much weight.
Anyways, just thought i would post a few pics to let any potential buyers, see what the XT1 looks like,
fully kitted out.
I am not one for giving inanimate objects names, aside from my car (smurfette), and now my camera, the fuji x-a2, only because she now has a sexy new look, encased all in rubber, the filthy harlot!
I am hoping this will protect against dust and dirt a bit, and maybe a little rain, not too much, i know the lens is WR but the lens still meets the body in the same way. It may also help me while out on the street, and maybe even stop some tealeaf stealing my camera while in dodgy locations, i mean, who wants a bright yellow camera?
I bloody love yellow and could not resist, and no, you cannot have it!
I feel silly, because I have done this b4.
How do I change the filenames from DSCF to something else. I now have 2 Fujis and want to use a different file name for each. I can't find it in the menus, and assume it is hidden at a 2nd or 3rd level.
Thanks a lot.
I was excited to download the latest update to CaptureOne Pro 9, version 9.1.2, hoping that it included a fix for the lack of lens profiles for the X-Pro2. Sadly, this upgrade did not add the necessary lens profiles.
Without the lens profiles, distortion is very apparent on X-Pro2 RAW files depending on the lens used. For now, I've been using the SOOC JPGs, but I would prefer to use the RAW files for post-processing.
I entered a ticket on the C1P9 website.
I just got my X-T10 body with 35mm f2 and 27mm f2.8 bundled with it. I shoot weddings and would like to get another lens. Im looking into trading one of my lenses for a 18-55 f2.8. keep the 27mm or the 35mm? thanks
Read reviews and some of my friends shifter already to FUJI. So I was curious and traded in my D610 to an X-T10 and 35mm f2 and 27mm f2.8. I was amazed with the looks of the X-T10 and it is very light! that was my intention go light during travel. Now reading the manual for the controls and shortcuts.
More pics and vintage lens review on my blog www.photofix101.com
My x100 went back to Fuji UK for a new lens assembly because of the sticky blade issue. That seems ok now but recently I was out and about and wanted to blur a waterfall but did not have my screw on filter with me so turned the built in ND on the iso to 100 and the aperture to f16 and tried a 1 second exposure that was all washed out.
What is happening is the aperture opens out fully when the ND filter is turned on but steps down correctly when its turned off. Should this be the case?
Lately after switching my X100t on the lcd data in the optical viewfinder is very dim and depending on the scene can be very hard to read. On switching to the evf and back a few times the lcd data comes back to full brightness.
Anyone experienced this?
... in conjunction with adapted lenses.
High resolution 36MP sensor for the cheapest price available ($1800). Cheaper than Sony A7R
Full frame at last!
High quality weather sealed body
K-mount which is perfect for vintage lenses like Pentax and M42 (no adapter necessary for old Pentax lenses, only tiny (1mm) adapter needed for M42 lenses
Body (even though it looks more retro than Canon or Nikon) is DSLR huge.
Feel free to add more upsides or downsides to the list.
How does an EOS to K mount look like?
well i have bought my first piece of bling for my camera (allthough its not here yet !!!) a soft touch red button .
I was wondering if the now old 18mm f2 lens will get an update in the near future. The f2 has served me well the past 18 months, but it's not fuji's best lens in the current line up. I have moved more to the 14mm f2,8 for my landscapes. I just think that it is due for a much needed update.
But maybe because it's not one of fuji's better selling focal length lenses, (as was the 35mm f1.4) that it will never get an update, like WR and better optics.!
This racoon mama has been living in the elm in my back yard, I was not aware what else she had up there. I've been yelling at her, "You can't stay there, you're driving my dog nuts!!!" Well she took the hint this rainy evening and moved her six cubs out of the tree. I got outside to take a photo of her. She was nice to pose before she scaled a tree and the fence off to my neighbors vacant dog house.
Memorial Day is a remembrance of those that gave their lives while serving in the armed forces. My father-in-law survived the second great war and lived well into his seventies. Just want to get that out of the way so we're clear that I understand the significance of Memorial Day.
There are only a couple photos of my father-in-law while in the service and for a postcard project I'm starting I scanned them tonight. Take a look from the neck down of these two marines. I'm floored by the textures and shadows in their clothing, their hands are dirty (both were artillerymen) and somewhat enlarged(?) compared to their faces.
Anyone familiar or willing to speculate on what gives this image these qualities?
I was an early adapter of the X Pro 1 and it's a camera that'll I'll probably hang onto for a long bit. I bought the original 3 primes but sold on the 60mm and bought the 18-55mm - leaving me with the zoom, the 18/2 and 35/1,4 for those of you scoring at home.
I've been reading of late how much faster focusing the new 35/2 WR is. I'm not sure if that is true of it on my XP1.
So I've been pondering trading in one, two, or all of my lenses on a lens upgrade - 35/2 OR maybe on an XT10 or X-E2s OR that X100t I've been eyeing for so long. Would any be a wise choice? If so, which would you choose (and why if you would be so kind)?