In AF-S single point, is it still possible to focus and recompose or does that work differently with the Fuji range of X cameras? Thanks for taking time to answer.
- Converts the fixed lens (28mm equivalent) to a 21mm equivalent without compromising optical performance.
X70-WCL Black $199.99
X70-WCL Silver $199.99
This lens is not everyone's cup of tea, but I am liking it more as I use it.
Not many of these out there for sale. I don't think they were originally offered in the US (?).
The zoom range is perfect for me (36-52 EFOV on an APS sensor); constant f3.5 - I wish it were f2.8, but then it would be bigger, and it's already big enough for me because of the necessary adapter; lens entends only 3mm when zooming or focusing; hated the original hood, so I went to Ebay/China and dropped $5.
My big motivation here was that I truly hate large zooms. The only other zoom I own today is the Fuji 18-55, which is wonderful, but becomes a telescope at 55mm and I am not happy with that. If Fuji made a smallish 24-35/f4.0 zoom ..... dream on, Dave!
I'll post a stream of photos here, as I make them over time. If anyone else out there has this lens, feel free to drop some pictures here as you desire.
Spurred on by great examples from @Tara Elizabeth, I sought and bought an example of the above lens attached to its donor camera for the princely sum of £60. This is one of my first test shots. Of course, Mistletoe the Jack Russell had to photo-bomb it!
X-Pro2 with Hexanon 57mm f1.4 test by Stephen Lee, on Flickr
I'm never first to publish with these things, but now a few months after release I've collected my thoughts on this little camera. I wasn't expecting it to fit into the Fuji picture as elegantly as it does, and now that I no longer have my X100T I'm realizing I might actually choose the X70 if I was to buy a compact again.
Fujifilm X70 Review — Marius Masalar
I recently purchased an new X-Pro2 and used 35mm F2 (like new from a large online camera shop). I was testing the AF-S in my living room focusing on the lens box which was about 40cm away and then an object several meters away across the room. I noticed immediately I was getting a high number of images that were out of focus (both close and far targets) and after some more testing and recording the results I was getting 1 out of 10 images were out of focus.
I then did the same test with my 27mm and my 16-55mm F2.8 and focus was perfect, in fact I couldn't get eithet to miss focus. I tried the 35mm on my XT-1 and it also focused well, tried the 35mm on the X-Pro2 again and at least one blurry image in every 10.
When the camera missed focused the camera indicated positive focus with the beep and green light but image was completely blurry to the point where you would have difficulty telling what the image was. I thought maybe the camera was not shifting out/into macro mode properly with the 35mm since the other lens were fine.
Everything has newest firmware and was good light during the day in the room.
Anyways I'm a bit stumped as the problem only seems to occur with the one combination. I've requested an RMA for the lens as I'm assuming it's the issue but if anyone has any ideas or suggestions please let me know as I'd prefer to keep the lens if I can get this issue resolved.
Anyone have any idea why Macs do not yet support us with Apple Camera RAW and LibRaw libraries?
and when they may add this support?
I would imagine Fuji made the RAW formats available well before release.
I am wondering if fuji xt1 is capable lock focus to subject like shown in fuji a2? If it does, can anyone tell me how?
Well, my first Fuji was an X100. Then bought an XE1, sold the X100. Then bought an XPro1, then an XT1, sold the XE1. Then bought an X100T; after a few months, I've sold that too... :-/
Yesterday I was cruising the camera shops in Mebourne and I saw a bashed up old XE1 in a shop. I asked how much...I think it was around $400 or so (you know what camera shops are like!)
I said I'd give $200 for it, so ended up getting it for $250.
For some reason, I feel quite elated! I always loved the pix from the XE1, just forgot until I saw this one
I know that a story needs a picture, but I just got in from the airport, so here are the only two I have, just to show she works! The lens was the 56, and I'm embarrassed to say, the leather jacket was on the door in the airport bathroom - glad I didn't drop the camera.
I am scheduled to take my XT1 in to Fujifilm tomorrow, but wanted to get some feedback from you guys!
I have spotted some "grease" spots on a few of my shots. The weird thing is that they show up on f8 shots but not with the lens wide open. At first I thought that these were on the sensor, but if that was the case then why would the aperture make a difference?
So today I started shooting a whole bunch of tests, including different lenses, different apertures, AE bracketing (all on RAW) and in focus & out of focus shots of the sky.
The blotches show up but not on every frame. Mainly at f8 or smaller aperture. ISO makes no difference and they are visible on wide angles more than tele lenses.
Next, during the testing I discovered a visible hot pixel! The camera is just over 2yrs old.
Can Fujifilm map out a hot pixel, or am I stuck with this forever?
Do you think I should dispose of the camera asap?
Not very happy
I recently purchased the Lonely Speck SharpStar2 to assist with perfecting infinity focus for shooting stars. I was testing it last night using my 23mm f/1.4 lens.
Last night, I was getting optimal focus around the 5m (white) mark on the DOF scale when shooting wide open. Maybe *slightly* to the infinity side of it, but MUCH closer to 5m marker than to the infinity marker. This was confirmed both by reviewing and zooming in, and was also confirmed visually using live view in that if I moved the focus toward the infinity marker on the lens barrel the stars in live view were definitely less sharp (and also confirmed taking some photos and zooming in to review). Otherwise, the lens performed as expected. There were some coma issues in the corners wide open, that cleaned up by f/2.8. Sharpness across the frame seemed equivalent with the centre being best, but the right and left sides seeming equivalent.
I wonder if maybe this is some design thing with the focus by wire nature of the lens?? And maybe the very fine tuning adjustments I was trying to make.
Sitting at my computer in daylight as I came to write the post (having exhausted google searches), I decided to try again. There are some mountain out my window, however right now, it seems to be much better... optimal focus is *just* to the left of the infinity marker on the distance scale.
Any insight is greatly appreciated.
I hope people do not take this the wrong way, but I just want to give an introduction and goodbye of myself.
I am a Canon user who has been looking for a small travel companion and have tried the Sony A6000, RX100 and had my eyes set on the X100T. After lots of research I found a fairly cheap combo of an X-E1 and 18-55mm. I really wanted a zoom as I only have primes for my Canon and missed a general zoom, after rave reviews about the 18-55mm, I lusted for this lens. (sidenote, I've realized with EVERY kit lens, there are plenty of people who say 'this should not be a kit lens, its too good')
I played with the X-E1 fully understanding its a first gen X series and pretty much everything performs better than this now. I am not bashing its slowish performance or slowish AF system. My 18-55mm takes great pictures, however my 18-55mm was probably defective as literally 1 out of 10 shots were in focus. I soon find out the 18-55mm has OIS/decentering issues, and my lens was almost definitely defective somewhere. The 18-55mm was pretty good when it hit, but not nearly the gem I thought it would be. I move on and buy the 35mm f2. I figure even if I don't use the 18-55, I can use this as my X100 replacement with a 50mm lens.
I get the lens, its SEXY, IQ is pretty good, focusing is better. But I am just not wowed. My Canon 6D with the 40mm pancake is basically the same size and weight and I seem to prefer the images. Fuji has great colors, but I don't know if its Full Frame or what, but colors out of the Canon are just 'deeper'
I ended up returning all my Fuji stuff. Maybe I will come back again. But for now, I am happy to say I at least tried Fuji. Fuji glass is GREAT, Fuji colors are great. Fuji really has a great system going, and I would imagine in a generation or two, Fuji will give everyone a run for its money. Its cost/quality ratio is probably the best out of all manufacturers.
I just acquired a 50-140, and took it on a road trip in the Columbia River Gorge. Here are a few of my better shots:
I've switched from a nikon DSLR to a fuji x-t10. I'm finding that I'm surprised sometimes at it not freezing motion. I just did a serious of photos with children at 1/180, F 2 to F 4, iso 1600. They were tossing things and twirling. In several images the moving hand or the pillow is blurred. I would think that 1/180 is sufficient to stop action. What am I not doing right? Thank you for any help!
PS+ Nik software and a bit cropped and enlarged again.
Apenheul / Apeldoorn / The Netherlands (Hometown)
I love my X-T1 with the bag of zooms and primes.
I love my X100s. Just throw it over my shoulder and go.
Now I have this damnable little X70.
I just returned from a long weekend trip. Family thing. No real time for serious photography. But I did have several opportunities to do some walkin' around - shootin' stuff.
Time after time, when I had to decide what camera to take along, I would just grab the X70 and slip it in my pocket, leaving my X-T1 and/or X100 behind.
Don't get me wrong, I was very pleased and satisfied with the pictures. But I didn't have the X-T1 and lenses with me like I always would have before. I'm missing shots - right? I must be. Damnable little X70. It might just turn out to be the worst camera buying decision I ever made.
I do realize that there are several threads about DR, highlight and shadow settings, discussing in some detail what setting will have what effects for Jpegs and/or RAWs. I don't want to go there again, I would simply like to know how you set up your highlight and shadow settings, and what thinking led you there.
I'm leaning to set my highlights to -2, because I often find that the highlights in my Jpeg files lack detail (especially the sky). This setting would be for general-purpose shooting in daylight – "street", architecture, random stuff.
Anybody here who's shooting with that setup? Or is it a stupid idea?
I am after some advice using a Nikon SB800 flash with my XT10. Reading posts on the XT1 I have my camera set to fixed f5.6 aperture and 1/100 shutter speed, iso at 400. Camera flash is set to commander which i thought disabled pre-flash. The flash is plugged directly into hotshot and set to manual mode 1/8 power. When i take a shot the flash does register on the exposure but only small amount. If I change the flash power from 1/8 up to 1/1 the exposure on the image does not change and remains under exposed. If I use the flash on my Nikon camera with similar settings I get the exposure I would expect based on than flash manual power settings. My guess is that the flash is triggering on the pre flash of the Fuji ttl metering but I thought this is disabled with command mode. Any one got suggestions on what I am doing wrong?
I have posted another thread below asking for advice, but now that a conclusive end has been reached, I thought I should share my experience with this community, which has been a great resource to me while researching which camera system to buy.
I have a 5 week old X-T1 with a dead ISO dial. You can turn it to any setting, but it won't change the ISO. Spoke with Fuji customer service - nice folks, by the way - they had me check that nothing was locked in the menu, then we did a full reset. Also reinstalled the 4.3 firmware. Nothing working. ISO is permanently stuck at 200. This camera has been treated with kid gloves - never dropped, bumped, or anything other than handled with care.
As I mentioned above, I did a good bit of research beforehand, here on these forums and other places, before deciding to buy into the Fuji system (X-T1 and 4 lenses). Needless to say, I am so disappointed that I have to send my camera in for repair after just 5 weeks of ownership. Yes, I checked with my local camera store - predictably, they told me anything beyond 30 days = warranty claim w/ Fuji.
What's the point of my posting this? Well, I wanted to let potential future Fuji buyers know that despite my troubles, I still love this camera and the photos I get out of it, and will stay with the Fuji system even after this setback. In the event someone else runs into this problem with the ISO dial, you'll know how it turned out for me.
After many failed attempt finally got this shot. It was hard since she kept moving around and the lens used was manual one.
Fuji X-E2 with Canon FD 50/1.4 @ f2.0
From yesterday, all with the XP2 + XF23mm
Thank you for watching, appreciate your comments.
I just noticed that when in S focus mode I cannot get the hybrid viewfinder to come up. If I switch to C o M it come up just fine. Any pointers? I'm using it with the 16mm 1.4 lens.
I currently have an X100T, XE2s and XT1. I really find the 35mm EFOV of the 100 quite useful for a lot of things, but I often don't travel with it because I also prefer the flexibility of interchangeable lenses. For a larger kit it's nice to have a second body/backup but the 100 uses different batteries, so more stuff to take.
So I am considering selling my X100T and maybe purchasing the XF23. I don't find myself able to justify having three camera bodies, two battery systems and the inability to change lenses on the 100. I would then have the XT1 and XE2s, same batteries and the ability to share lenses between the bodies. Lenses I currently have are the 14, 18-55 and 55-200. I am thinking the 23 would replace the X100T nicely?
Looking for thoughts that anyone would like to share. I am certain I have not considered everything.
You owe it to yourself to go to Germany sometime.
For the few times I've explored the video capabilities of my Fuji X-T1 and X-Pro1, I have struggled with being able to pull-focus accurately from one point to another while shooting. The distance scales on the LCD and EVF are marginal at best. My 23 mm 1.4 lens won't even inspire the camera to display the distance scale, and looking over the top of the camera to see the physical markings on that lens is alkward.
I've seen a couple of devices that can be mounted on "DSLR" lens' that are designed to mark or stop focus points. One that I see is the FocusShifter, Follow FocusShifter - Lens Mounted Follow Focus for DSLR Video and Photography -, and the other is the FocusMaker, FocusMaker – Sharp & Simple Follow Focus for DSLR video.
I was curious if anyone in the forum community has tried either of these two attachments on our X-Series lens'. If anyone could recommend any alternative suggestions, that would be nice too.
In lieu of that, maybe I could make a stop focus ring out of rubber bands and LEGOS.