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Really liking this combination of the X-T1 and Zeiss 32mm lens

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I've switched from a nikon DSLR to a fuji x-t10. I'm finding that I'm surprised sometimes at it not freezing motion. I just did a serious of photos with children at 1/180, F 2 to F 4, iso 1600. They were tossing things and twirling. In several images the moving hand or the pillow is blurred. I would think that 1/180 is sufficient to stop action. What am I not doing right? Thank you for any help!
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X-T1
XF100-400
XF-1.4x
PS+ Nik software and a bit cropped and enlarged again.

Apenheul / Apeldoorn / The Netherlands (Hometown)

45 mtr
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I love my X-T1 with the bag of zooms and primes.
I love my X100s. Just throw it over my shoulder and go.
Now I have this damnable little X70.

I just returned from a long weekend trip. Family thing. No real time for serious photography. But I did have several opportunities to do some walkin' around - shootin' stuff.

Time after time, when I had to decide what camera to take along, I would just grab the X70 and slip it in my pocket, leaving my X-T1 and/or X100 behind.

Don't get me wrong, I was very pleased and satisfied with the pictures. But I didn't have the X-T1 and lenses with me like I always would have before. I'm missing shots - right? I must be. Damnable little X70. It might just turn out to be the worst camera buying decision I ever made.
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Hello all,

I do realize that there are several threads about DR, highlight and shadow settings, discussing in some detail what setting will have what effects for Jpegs and/or RAWs. I don't want to go there again, I would simply like to know how you set up your highlight and shadow settings, and what thinking led you there.

I'm leaning to set my highlights to -2, because I often find that the highlights in my Jpeg files lack detail (especially the sky). This setting would be for general-purpose shooting in daylight – "street", architecture, random stuff.

Anybody here who's shooting with that setup? Or is it a stupid idea?
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I am after some advice using a Nikon SB800 flash with my XT10. Reading posts on the XT1 I have my camera set to fixed f5.6 aperture and 1/100 shutter speed, iso at 400. Camera flash is set to commander which i thought disabled pre-flash. The flash is plugged directly into hotshot and set to manual mode 1/8 power. When i take a shot the flash does register on the exposure but only small amount. If I change the flash power from 1/8 up to 1/1 the exposure on the image does not change and remains under exposed. If I use the flash on my Nikon camera with similar settings I get the exposure I would expect based on than flash manual power settings. My guess is that the flash is triggering on the pre flash of the Fuji ttl metering but I thought this is disabled with command mode. Any one got suggestions on what I am doing wrong?
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I have posted another thread below asking for advice, but now that a conclusive end has been reached, I thought I should share my experience with this community, which has been a great resource to me while researching which camera system to buy.

I have a 5 week old X-T1 with a dead ISO dial. You can turn it to any setting, but it won't change the ISO. Spoke with Fuji customer service - nice folks, by the way - they had me check that nothing was locked in the menu, then we did a full reset. Also reinstalled the 4.3 firmware. Nothing working. ISO is permanently stuck at 200. This camera has been treated with kid gloves - never dropped, bumped, or anything other than handled with care.

As I mentioned above, I did a good bit of research beforehand, here on these forums and other places, before deciding to buy into the Fuji system (X-T1 and 4 lenses). Needless to say, I am so disappointed that I have to send my camera in for repair after just 5 weeks of ownership. Yes, I checked with my local camera store - predictably, they told me anything beyond 30 days = warranty claim w/ Fuji.

What's the point of my posting this? Well, I wanted to let potential future Fuji buyers know that despite my troubles, I still love this camera and the photos I get out of it, and will stay with the Fuji system even after this setback. In the event someone else runs into this problem with the ISO dial, you'll know how it turned out for me.
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from street carnival in Oslo

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After many failed attempt finally got this shot. It was hard since she kept moving around and the lens used was manual one.

Fuji X-E2 with Canon FD 50/1.4 @ f2.0

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View from my window

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From yesterday, all with the XP2 + XF23mm

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Thank you for watching, appreciate your comments.
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I just noticed that when in S focus mode I cannot get the hybrid viewfinder to come up. If I switch to C o M it come up just fine. Any pointers? I'm using it with the 16mm 1.4 lens.

Thanks..

Steven
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I currently have an X100T, XE2s and XT1. I really find the 35mm EFOV of the 100 quite useful for a lot of things, but I often don't travel with it because I also prefer the flexibility of interchangeable lenses. For a larger kit it's nice to have a second body/backup but the 100 uses different batteries, so more stuff to take.

So I am considering selling my X100T and maybe purchasing the XF23. I don't find myself able to justify having three camera bodies, two battery systems and the inability to change lenses on the 100. I would then have the XT1 and XE2s, same batteries and the ability to share lenses between the bodies. Lenses I currently have are the 14, 18-55 and 55-200. I am thinking the 23 would replace the X100T nicely?

Looking for thoughts that anyone would like to share. I am certain I have not considered everything.
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You owe it to yourself to go to Germany sometime.

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For the few times I've explored the video capabilities of my Fuji X-T1 and X-Pro1, I have struggled with being able to pull-focus accurately from one point to another while shooting. The distance scales on the LCD and EVF are marginal at best. My 23 mm 1.4 lens won't even inspire the camera to display the distance scale, and looking over the top of the camera to see the physical markings on that lens is alkward.

I've seen a couple of devices that can be mounted on "DSLR" lens' that are designed to mark or stop focus points. One that I see is the FocusShifter, Follow FocusShifter - Lens Mounted Follow Focus for DSLR Video and Photography -, and the other is the FocusMaker, FocusMaker – Sharp & Simple Follow Focus for DSLR video.

I was curious if anyone in the forum community has tried either of these two attachments on our X-Series lens'. If anyone could recommend any alternative suggestions, that would be nice too.

In lieu of that, maybe I could make a stop focus ring out of rubber bands and LEGOS. :)

Steve
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The new X-T2 looks soooo good, especially the vertical grip with its own joystick.
'Stolen' from the web:

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Fuji X-T2   b.jpg

Fuji X-T2   c.jpg
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Hello everybody.

I have Fuji xe2 . and I want upgrade to xpro2, do you recommend? Or stay with ex2 ?


Thanks
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Ben
I think I mentioned before that my old labrador Zack died last September aged 13 and a half. Well we realised that it was time for a new dog and asked a vet friend to let us know if she heard of a lab sale from a reputable source. Upshot was that 3 weeks ago we had a 250km trip to view two 5 week old puppies. We chose Ben - but we could easily have ended up with them both. On Saturday I repeated the trip with my son to collect him. This was a re-run of the trip some 14 years before to collect Zack and despite the fact he's now 28 he spent the return trip on the back seat holding this little bundle of fur with a grin from ear to ear. They then spent the rest of Saturday and Sunday rarely out of each others contact.
Taken with the X100s - the images are nothing special but it's great to have the camera to hand at all times.

Ben 1.jpg Ben 2.jpg Ben and Chris 1.jpg
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I have a XT1 with the 18-55mm kit lens, I have only had the camera for about 24 hours now and I am generally very happy with the results. Normally I like to shoot in single point AF mode although sometimes you may miss a shot especially if your taking candid street photography shots when things just happen out of the blue. I tried the Zone AF mode and my results were a bit hit and miss as in out of focus, I pre set my zone in advance just so I know which area it was going to focus on as well. Are there any recommended settings that I need to know about that I may have missed? I have the latest firmware, I mainly shoot in Aperture Priority & I like to control my own ISO.
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Captured on the way home from a birthday party as I wanted to test the low light ability of my 2 week old X-T10.

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I noticed that the Lilac DSCF1425.jpg off my deck seemed especially happy today.
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Maybe this might be better in the Adapted Lens forum, but this might work here just as well, so here goes.

Will Lensbaby composer work with a speedbooster adapter?

I was thinking about this product for a while and curious if anyone might have experience or know if this is even possible.

I was thinking of getting the lensbaby composer for Canon EF mount. I was also thinking of getting a Canon EF to Fuji X Speedbooster Adapter from Fotasy.

I am thinking and hoping that with this combination, I can achieve a few things:
1) Getting the focal length closer to 35mm full frame (has focal length reducer of 0.72x, e.g. 50mm x 1.5 x 0.72 = 54mm.)
2) Getting the aperture performance also closer to 35mm full frame
3) With above benefits, I believe there will be less cropping of the final image and therefor you will have even more of the special blur and sweet spot effect and may actually have more area within the frame to adjust and compose a unique shot.

What do you think? Should or will it work? Or, because of the nature and physical design of how a speedbooster (essentially a focal length reducer) works, it will not translate so smoothly as I am hoping or anticipating?

I just want to make the purchase more worth it.. otherwise, if you get the exact Fuji X mount, you will not inherit the full benefits and effects of the lensbaby because of the crop.. and I feel a lot of the effectiveness of the lensbaby effect has to do with how much you can pinpoint the sweet spot focus in relationship to how much more the everything outside of the sweet spot is uniquely thrown out of focus. Get my meaning and where I'm coming from?

Thanks if any insight or your thoughts.
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I shoot X-T1 and Nikon D750. I would like to find an X-PRO2 user in Sydney area (Radius say, 150km) who is interested in a little testing/playing to compare the X-PRO2 to the D750 and if interested to the X-T1.

I am available during the day, most days (by prior arrangement). If you are interested, then send me a PM, or reply to this thread.

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VERSUS
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Cheers,
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I've been shooting a lot of kids' soccer and lacrosse lately with my X-T1, 50-140, and 1.4x extender. While my AF success rate isn't as good as my Canon 6D with a 70-200 f/2.8 IS II and 1.4x extender, it has gotten a lot better, and the shots I do get are pretty great! The one thing that I think would help the 50-140 is the focus distance limiter that the Canon 70-200 has. Except for the occasional missed focus on the background, the Fuji setup does quite well in AF-C with prefocus on, except at more extreme distances, where it often hunts a second or so before locking focus. The Canon lens has a hardware switch to limit the focus distance to 2.5m to infinity instead of the standard 1.2m to infinity. Is this something that might be possible for Fuji to incorporate via a firmware update so an additional menu item appears? According to LR, of the 67 keepers I took today, all but 10 were over 120mm. (Remember the 1.4x is on too.) I would love a menu setting that would limit the possible focal distances to something at the longer end, if that could possibly narrow down the range that the autofocus has to hunt for.

Is this even possible? If it would increase AF accuracy and speed, I would love to see a menu option for something like this appear when this lens (and extender if I'm not being too greedy) is attached.
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Any idea when Fuji might start offering better pricing on the XT-1 since the XT-2 will probably be announced soon? Looked today and it's at full price....
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I noticed today that my X-T1 and X-Pro 1 meter different and exposure different in the same light/scenario. My X-T1 shows me an exposure of 1/100 F1.2 and ISO 1250 and my X-Pro 1 1/100, F1.2 and ISO 2500. The shutter is set to minimum 1/100, auto ISO. Is this because of the different sensors? Anyone else have noticed similar results?
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Hi there, I bought an used body this week; all seemed fine (7200clicks), took some testshots today with some adapted CZ-lenses; besides the focuspoint (grrr!) everything seems okay.

But I believe there occured a shutterproblem; it makes strange sound and on B it takes too long too close.. Grmpfh..

Also the VF stays black/dark when I shot a pic longer then would be normal, like half a second or so...but the pic is good. Not too light.

I'll go back to the seller, but anyone familiair with this...?
He said it had the latest updates.
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Simply one of the great cities of the world with its world-class high speed trains and metro system. Wife and I went this past weekend for the Labor Day celebrations here in China. The horde was out and about (see images), shopping, seeing and snapping. For those looking to visit, you must get off at People's Square and take the City Sight-Seeing Tour Bus. For about $8.75 US one can hop on the two-decker open air buses, board the ferries, and tour the city for hours upon hours. No better way to see the city. Here are several images I took, most from the top deck of a bus, with the X-E2 and XF 18-55mm. Processing is my own form of HDR in Lightroom. Thanks for looking. All comments appreciated. Don in the Middle Kingdom.

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Hello Forum,

I want to share a tip that I learnt back in my old Nikon DSLR days
Why shoot in mono ? Why not use 2 eyes and shoot in stereo ?
......here's for going straight to the point (no signing up / no tricks / just direct blow your mind free tip)

How to use both eyes to view in Stereo (like a binocular) ?
(yes, stereo, which is what we use everyday, assuming you have 2 good eyes)

Grab an XT-1 and a XF 16-55 (XE1 or XE2 with 18-55 or 16-50 should also do... note XPro2 can't hack it sorry) Look through the finder with your right eye, as if you were taking a vertical or portrait orientation. Keep your left open and look through both eyes, relaxed.... set zoom to about 40... or just a little longer than 35... experiment and try and "line up" the view through both eyes so they match... hey, you're viewing in stereo, and you have a far "better" viewing technique than ever before. Congrats. : You have just upgraded your power of observation and attention to detail !!
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I bought an used body and an new adapter this week.
I already discovered that it is very hard to focus with the simple focus-peaking from the X-E1. So be it (for now),
With infinity I have to turn a little back on the lens-ring to get sharp. So be it. But I cannot understand why nothing seems to be really in focus when I would miss that point...!?? I mean , the distagon reaches infinity from 2.5mtrs (8ft).

Here is an example where I put the focus on the 2nd or 3th tree on the right side.
If I would have missed that tree, there ought to be some focus on another tree or somewhere else...no? But nothing seems to be sharp..
Or is something with my eyes?

I can't remember the aparture but it was taken at iso 200 on 1/125 sec, so it must have been on 5.6 or 8

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XT1 + Metabones + Sigma 180mm macro lens.

Testing is over, this combo has proved itself to be beautiful, I like very narrow DOF macro images and with the rain yesterday it was a good opportunity to get out in the garden and get some water drop shots, this was the most successful one I think although there are a couple of others that have potential for development. I hope you enjoy!

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As per title, I know we can never find that "perfect" camera/system, but I am wondering what people think of the Sony mirrorless system.

Short intro to my curiosity:

Went back to Mayfield Garden after 6 months for another day's shooting. Last time I took my X-T1 with a good collection of glass ware and took some very pleasing photos, using the best technique I could muster. E.g. shoot at optimum aperture, ISO, using tripod, etc., etc.

This time round, I thought it's time to love my Nikon D750 as it has been a little lonely of late and again took some very pleasing photos. BUT!

Summary of experience:

Nikon
  1. Battery life after an entire day's shooting of about 300 frames in JPG + RAW I only used 40% of battery. This is of course, consistent with DSLR vs mirrorless, as DSLRs do not use much battery on standby as no need to read the sensor or drive the EVF, and in fact you can easily test your framing with the camera turned OFF.
  2. Resolution was noticeably better than the X-T
  3. Option to take excellent video (I have a video interest, I know that many Fuji shooters don't)
  4. FF sensor does give noticeably better DOF and resolution, especially compared to the APS-C Fuji X-T1
Fuji
  1. Lighter kit
  2. EVF is just great to get a good feel of what you are going to get, before you press the shutter
  3. Better colour rendition, even after LR fiddling of the respective raw files, I prefer the Fuji colours
  4. Like the flexibility of the MS+ES shutter
So I got to wondering about the Sony A7R Mk ii and if it would be a better choice and could it be the best of both worlds. I must state, however, that in my case this is only day dreaming, as I have no funds or "real" intention to buy into yet another system.

So, wonder if the Sony coupled with some Zeiss optics, would deliver the benefits of
  1. Mirrorless EVF preview
  2. High resolution 42MPx FF sensor for landscape
  3. Great video, when required
I am aware of the interface on the Sony being less user friendly than the Fuji and reliability sometimes not the best, but would the Sony provide good colours, resolution, etc.? (I know battery life will be poor, but just means carrying a bunch of spares).

Of course I am awaiting with baited breath the arrival of the X-T2 with higher resolution and 4k video, just like I am waiting for new Nikons, such as the announced D500 and the not announced successors to the D750 and D810. For the price of one Sony A7R Mk ii, I could probably buy an XPRO-2 and an X-T2 and of course I already have lenses for both Fuji and Nikon. Hence my statement that this is more of a day dreaming exercise than intention to change brands, never the less many of us still like to consider the alternatives.

I have refrained from adding example photos produced by the Nikon and Fuji as I am sure you are well aware of their capabilities already.

Thanks for reading.

ps: I would especially like to hear back from anyone that is shooting with a Sony A7Rii and a Fuji X, to see how they compare.
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He is a Hero

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Comparing my 18-135 bokeh at closeup distances with my old Vivitar 90. f2.5 macro. This is the 18-135 at f5.6 and 88.2mm. The rain stopped me from using the Vivitar as it is not weather sealed. Will continue another day.

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On my X100, it's Spanner menu page 6

On my X-T1, it's Spanner menu 1 > SCREEN SET-UP > BACKGROUND COLOR

I can't see it on my X100T. Is it not possible to set the LCD background colour on this camera?
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i replaced my aging 32 bit PC running WinXP a year ago, and had to give up my LS-2000 scanner . Although I rarely used it in recent years, I missed having it. The LS-2000 is a great scanner and it didn't make any sense to buy an expensive USB scanner, so I started doing some research, and found a seller on eBay selling refurbished LS-2000's with a kit to use the scanner with the latest Windows versions on 64 bit PC's

This same seller offers a repair service as well, and I had sent my scanner to him in 2007 when it stopped working due to dried lubricants. So I contacted him to see if he would sell me just the kit, which he did. The kit contains a new Adaptec PCIe card and cable, 64 bit SCSI drivers on CD, and step by step instructions. Since there is no scanner software or 64 bit driver for the LS-2000 from Nikon, I had to purchase VueScan software, which installed the driver. VueScan is easy to use and has all the features and more of the original NikonScan software.

My LS-2000 is now working on a 64 bit PC running Win7, and if I upgrade to Win10, it will still work.

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I've had my X-Pro2 a couple of weeks.
Today, when taking an image with the 56mm/1.2 a message came up on the screen prompting to turn the camera off and back on. The image was saved ok, but wonder if others have witnessed this, and if it's maybe something potential bad !
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Hi everyone- I wrote a free guidebook that can help you become more familiar with your X Series camera. It's called FUJIFILM TIPS and TRICKS: My 10 Favorite Settings for the X Series Cameras.

These cameras are so powerful and they're packed so many features. I just felt it might be helpful to outline some the settings I use most often, and highlight a few of the lesser known features I think can really make a difference in the creative and technical aspects of your photography.

Having used the X Series cameras for almost five years, I'm happy to share my experience and knowledge of with other shooters. Let me know if you have any questions about settings, or better yet, share your own! Everyone has a different style and you might know some tips I haven't thought of!


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