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Does the Yongnuo YN 560TX wireless trigger work on Fuji X hotshoes? I have a Canon one with Yongnuo speed lights. Thanks
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Hey guys,

Trying out settings on my new X-T2 and one setting I don't get is 'Focus Mode: ALL'. In the manual, when you have 'ALL' as the focus mode, you can toggle between modes in the 'Focus-Point Selection Display'. So when I hit the focus stick to bring up the focus point display, I rotate the rear dial and it will only change the size of the focus point square. Does not let me change the focus mode. Am I not doing this correctly?

Thanks for any info.
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This seems worthwhile - NP-W126S Batteries Test: Capacity, Temperature and Quality compared
Screen Shot 2017-05-26 at 11.06.33 PM.png
A trend I notice is that exaggerated claims of capacity is BAD - we all know that Wasabi and Watson does not have the same capacity as original OEM batteries. Watson admits this, which make their 1120 capacity credible to me. I wonder whether Wasabi is like Patona/Maximal Power rather than DSTE/Noname, which apparently are also prone to heating. Maybe ProMaster is like ExPro White.

The author of the post (see link) says he will update the article when more batteries are tested.

Also, a link to an older thread on the same subject here.
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I had a chance to pick up a Kiron 105mm f2.8 Macro for $99 bucks and it just blows me away. This is far from its closest focusing distance (it goes to 1:1), but is an impressive display of what the lens can do nonetheless.

Fuji X-T1 w/Kiron 105mm
ISO1000, 1/1000, f8 (I think)

[​IMG]
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SpringGettyCenterDocentReflectBW.jpg

X-T2 and XF60mm reflecting at the Getty Center.
Every time I've been to the Getty, there's always a docent chilling out in this spot :cool:.

Thanks for looking,
Ed
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With the new firmware update on the X-T2 you are now able to assign a function to the rear command dial. I am curious if anyone has assigned AF-on to the command dial to try it out for back button focus? I have always had a problem with using back button focus with the AF-L button or the AE-L button because of their small size and position. I am currently trying out the rear command dial and initially it seems like it has a much better feel and position than the AF buttons. What are your thoughts and initial impressions?
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I just completed a new video of my wife's latest Senior High School Photography Session and tried to incorporate some of the advice I have received from members of this forum. I tried editing to the music this time so the cuts flowed more with the tempo of the music. I also shortened the video compared to the last ones I did. I had some feedback that 2 1/2 minutes is a little too long for this kind of video unless you are the client or family member of the client who has a personal interest in the video. My statistics on Youtube bear this out as most viewers tended to stop watching after about 1 1/2 minutes.

Thanks again for all the great feedback I have received that has helped me to keep improving on my videography and video editing.

For this video I used the Fuji X-T2 with the 56mm f/1.2 lens. A Manfrotto monopod with a Manfrotto fluid head. also used a 3 stop ND filter. All footage was taken at 24fps, 1/50 shutter, except the slow motion which was at 60fps, 1/125 shutter. I took some footage with the 23mm Fuji Lens, but ended up not using it in the video. Edited in Adobe Premiere Pro.

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Passing over the viaduct near me today. DSCF8252-2web.jpg
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The Old City of Jaffa. More on my blog.

170505_225_sep2.jpg
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Has anyone done the 2.10 update on the X-T2 yet? Any problems? Is it really necessary?
Having just bought the camera I am a little wary to do it so soon as there are reports on here of problems with the 2.0 update earlier.

I've just gone to the update site and downloaded the (supposedly ) new 2.10 file. However, at the bottom of the download page it says:

File name FWUP0010.DAT
File size 51.0MB

The file that downloaded is called FWUP0010-2.DAT and is 53.5Mb.

The site I got the download from is:
http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/x/X-T2/download.html

I am suspicious..............
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Today I attempted to trigger some external flashes using the Cactus v6 system. The flashes triggered when I used the test button on the Cactus, but failed to fire when I clicked the shutter. Yes, silent mode is off. I remembered from prior experience that a Nissin i40 flash mounted on the x100f camera hot shoe worked fine. I could trigger the i40 either in M or TTL mode as long as the camera was set to that particular setting. Not understanding why the i40 worked on the x100f, but the Cactus v6 didn't , I got out some dumb Pocket Wizards. They worked when tested from the PW test button, but not when I clicked the shutter. Why does the i40 work fine but not the dumb triggers? The problem turns out to be the internal flash. It must be turned off in the camera menu to get the dumb triggers to work. Well the Cactus are not dumb in the sense I can control individual flash power, but that only takes a dumb, "fire", signal from the camera. Now both PW and Cactus are triggering as expected. Good I tried this before the wedding I will be shooting.
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XT-1, 35mm f2.

IMG_2220.JPG
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I sold my best 28 last year (because I'm stupid sometimes) and want to get back to shooting with an adapted 28. I'm leaning toward picking up another OM 28/3.5 or 2.8 or maybe track down a Minolta 28/2.8. The lens I sold was a Komine made Vivitar 28/2 close focus but those are not easy to find and a bit spendy.

I like a decent close focus ability but it doesn't need to be a macro. I have a Nikon 28/2 AiS which has CRC, I don't love it but it'll do if need be.

Any suggestions?
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Has anyone experienced this before? This has happened to me on two difference X-T2 bodies already.
Attached is on my first X-T2 body where is very visible. This time it's a little bit faint and only visible on certain dark/gray areas (like the menu screen).

This isn't normal. Don't you think? Getting tired of sending in my camera :|

IMG_1312.jpg
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I just tried to update both my XP2 and X-T2 cameras with the new version 3.10 and 2.10 firmware, downloaded it to desktop then onto SD cards formatted in the respective cameras, turned on while pressing display back button so the cameras showed the current version (2.00 and 3.00).
Pressed the OK button and it showed "Body" and when I pressed it again it said "Firmware not found in card slot 1. turn off the camera"

I reformatted cards, downloaded new firmware again and tried once more - same issues on both cameras!
Taken some images and the cards work perfectly so not a card issue.

Is anyone else experiencing this?
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I purchased this lens for $199 from Adorama to hold me over until the new 200mm Prime comes out next year. If this thing keeps taking pictures like this I'm not sure I really need the Prime.....

[​IMG]DSCF7475 by frankweiser, on Flickr

And with full color different shot....

[​IMG]DSCF7477 by frankweiser, on Flickr
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DSCF5857.JPG Fuji xes2 35mm f2
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DSCF5887.JPG IMG_1296.JPG Lanzarote Iman event
Fuji xes2 35mm f2
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I turned on my XPro2 this morning and the LCD is flashing on and off. That's it. That's all it will do.

It will allow me to go to the Firmware update screen. I re-loaded the newest software that just came out (3.10 - I hope I haven't uncovered a fatal flaw in the new firmware).

I removed and replaced the battery. Don't know what else to try. Any ideas?


Update:
I took the battery out again and left it out for a few minutes. After re-inserting, everything returned to normal. Whew! But it is a worry. The camera appeared to be turning itself on and off again very rapidly.

The camera returned to normal while I was on hold with Fujifilm service. The tech suggested that it might just be a 'glitch', but if it is, she's never heard of it. She suggested that if it happens again I should send it in.

She also said that if it is a problem with FW 3.1 it is too early to know since it just was released yesterday.

It might be prudent to hold off updating your XP2 for a while. 3.01 doesn't add much anyway.
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I just got back from a 3 week cycling adventure in Scotland. This was my first visit to that part of the world and I loved it. In fact, I wish I were still there, pedaling around the Highlands, tasting whisky and camping in the wilderness.

The landscapes in Scotland are beautiful! In some ways, they're a wee bit like Alaska, but with a little bit of Colorado thrown in there as well. They have a very unique and mysterious, old world look.

I can't wait to go back.

[​IMG]

[​IMG]

[​IMG]
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Hi, Folks.

I know this is still a pre-order item, but any thoughts about this flash?
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Processed in Silver Efex Pro, from an original in colour.

B&W Peony.jpg
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Having lugged a Canon 7D2 + 100-400mm around for some years, I have to say that buying this camera harness saved my life, well neck anyway, and my new Fuji X-T2 + 100-400 is also very comfortable, and light.
It takes all the weight off your neck so if you have "neck problems" like this old gitt, it's a must.

Anybody else use these? I see they've gone up a few pounds since I bought mine!

[​IMG]
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I have a love-hate relationship with my Konica Hexanons...I don't really hate them, but I don't love them either. I don't know if it's the way they feel, the focus action, the notchy aperture ring but something about them just kinda bugs me. But...every time I decide to sell them I review the images and they look so wonderfully film-like that I end up with another one. They're like rabbits. It's similar to my relationship with Hondas, I always swear that I will never own another one, that I'd rather own any other car than a Honda, then I start looking and test driving.

I just bought a CRV.

I see a Hexanon 28/3.5 (7/7 version) in my future. :eek:

Hexanon 24/2.8
[​IMG]
the immortal
by kevin dixey, on Flickr

Hexanon 50/1.4
[​IMG]
the gamer
by kevin dixey, on Flickr

Hexanon 40/1.8
[​IMG]
kiiiity
by kevin dixey, on Flickr
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option is greyed out........any suggestions
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Sorry mis-typed title. Should be "Bacopa flowers".
X-A1 with Minolta MC Rokkor-QF 50mm f/3.5 Macro with 1:1 adapter. Close to minimum focusing distance (very slight crop). 3 sec exposure at f/22. DSCF5995_crop_f22_small.JPG
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Taken on a X-T2 with the 16-55mm F2.8.

DSCF7207.jpg
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Yosemite lower falls. Fighting back the force of the falls.

[​IMG]DSCF7622 by Ryan Lio, on Flickr
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It seems that a firmware update for HSS Degreef & Partner Nieuws is available for Nissin i60A and i40 flashes for Fuji. As we all know the flash will have to be sent to distributor for firmware update. If Dutch distributer has it I assume USA has it as well.
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As I was checking out my Facebook feed last night an add came up for a Kickstarter project called Arsenal.

While many of the features didn't interest me too much, but what did, besides supporting Fuji cameras, was the ability to do focus stacking with them. While I've used a CamRanger for many years to create focus stacks with my Nikon, CamRanger have advised me there is no intention of supporting Fuji cameras.

Anyway, I just wanted to let other know in case you might be interested.

For me, I'm not so sure. I'm considering moving over to Olympus just for the focus stacking ability.

Arsenal DSLR And Mirrorless Smart Camera Assistant (video) - Geeky Gadgets
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People complaining for the "OLD" 23mm f2.0 on the new 24mp sensor...?

I found it crazy sharp, even at f2

See this example, OOC, sharpening set to zero. And the 100% crop as you can see wasn't even on the center of the frame, this amazes my, a lot!

crop.jpg insieme.jpg
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Hello everyone,

I am very new to flash photography. Recently I bought a 80x80 Godox collapsible rectangular S-mount bracket softbox, which I heard good things about. So I am very much excited. Now few days ago I went out with my friends at night near a river. So I wanted to take portraits there with the softbox. Now a few problems I faced, but obviously I am not gonna ask every single help for all of those. But I wanna mention a few and wanna have your expert opinions.

1. It was near river bank. Almost no ambient light. On the other side of the river, there were a few lights. I wanted to capture the bokeh also. So I used the flash, but no way I could capture those bokehs properly. It always turned into black background and a few washed out bokeh. In post processing, I could recover in one photo though, but I didn't know it was captured. So, what's the technique in these kind of situations to properly illuminate the subject and keeping the distant bokeh lights? (see the photos below. all are unedited)

2. Now, as I mentioned about my new softbox, I thought the light will be very flattering. The light is good, but I am a bit concerned about the transition of shadow. I know it depends on lot of factors. See the photos below and the softbox was always almost within 2-3 ft. do you think the transition is as it should be? I know it's a tough one to answer. But gimme some input please. (see the photos below. all are unedited)

DSCF6694.JPG DSCF6681.JPG DSCF6696.JPG DSCF6686.JPG DSCF6705.JPG

Thanks in advance.
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Hi all,

I've been reading here since I made to decision to replace my old, dust ridden, 8mp Canon Digital Rebel back when the XT-2 first came on the scene. I finally purchased it about a month ago and have been struggling to get through the manual, which reads like "War and Peace" ever since. I also have the book "120 X-pert Tips" to help out.
I'm not a photographer ... actually do not have the artistic abilities that God gave a slug, but I like to capture moments in time. I'm determined to learn this new camera, although it's a steep learning curve from where I came from, but I'm already pleased with the results. I try to learn a few new items with the equipment every day, and some is already sinking in, but I'm aware that the road ahead is a long one!
I just did the new 2.1 firmware update this morning, and I suppose, in large part, it has made "War and Peace" obsolete. But I keep plugging away..
Bought a new Think Tank Retrospective 5 in Sandstone, and have a few other necessities in mind, but first things first..

I'll probably remain mostly a reader, but just wanted to pop in and thank everyone for the help and info I've already received...

Thanks,

Bill
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Hello everyone,

I recently bought a 56mm and I am in love with it. But I also bought a new softbox which I am excited to use outdoor portraits. But problem is I have X-T10 and its flash sync speed is 1/180s. So even at 200 ISO and exposure compensation -3, already every highlight in the photo is clipped. It looks disgusting :p

So, what's your suggestion?
1. ND or Variable ND?
2. If ND, which one would be versatile through different time of day? I have a 10 stop, but of course that'd be too much for just portraits.
3. If variable ND, which one? I see good ones are overly expensive and I heard a new brand is coming which claims there will be no x-pattern issue, but forgot its name.
4. Any alternative idea?

TIA
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Hello all, I know there's a heap of threads on thumb rests for the X100 series but I'm wondering if it was my imagination (or wishful thinking) when I "thought" I saw a thread related to the X100T series where it was suggested a Lensmate X30 rest would fit an EX-1 or 2 and that it would also fit the X100T...was I having a dumb moment?

I've got an X100T due to arrive with me next week and having used the original X100 with a cheap thumb rest I can see the benefit of having a decent version and Lensmate seems to fit the bill. However, buying new from the US is costly...delivery, customs, tax and handling charges make it eye-watering expensive! I may have the option of using Lensmate's X30 version but I can't try before I buy...I don't mind having to mod it a little - any thoughts please?

If this breaches any forum protocols I'll apologise in advance, but anyone who has the X100T version gathering dust in the UK and is looking to move it a new and loving home. EU is not out of the question either - let me know please.

Thanks, David
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Is it possible to stack non uniform or shifted frame files. I want to stack the Milky Way, but some of the files have different crop lines. They're all taken with the same lens, but some of the files are of different areas of the sky. I've never done any stacking, so I'm not really familiar with the process, the benefits or the limitations. Any advice or direction to some helpful resources would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Pete
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Looking to see if anyone else is interested in something like this, and trying to introduce the concept if no one considered it before.

I was a big fan of the Vivitar series 1 35-85mm f/2.8 zoom. I even tried using it quite a bit on Sony mirrorless before I came over to Fuji. The two issues with that lens were the weight, and vari-focus. Assuming no other changes than AF, and composites instead of all metal, both of those issues would be solved with a modern Fuji version (note glass size would not change much given FF image circle at F2.8 equates to ~APC-C image circle F2).

Pros:
-No lens changing for single body 35/85 shooters
-If you had a second body for a 35/85 set up this frees it for something exotic like a 12F2.8 Zeiss, 8mm Samyang Fish, or 50-140 F2.8 on the long end.
-Larger bohek than other zooms
-Greater light gathering for AF in Low Light situations

Cons:
-16-55 F2.8 is already available.
-Not sure what the final size/weight would be
-Likely expensive niche, but I'm hoping it would be a Halo product for pros and appeal to vintage style shooters.

About Me:
I love a 35/85 set up on Fuji, their small size, and very wide APS-C glass. I typically use two E-X2 with 23F1.4/56F1.2 or X100S/56F1.2 Yes I have G.A.S., no I'm not looking to change ;)
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