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Hey folks, just got a 16mm 1.4 to go with my X-T10.

I came from a Nikon FX system where I used my 20-35mm a lot for landscapes. I'm covered on the 24mm and 35mm now (with my 16 1.4 and my X100T) but I'm lacking the 20mm that I use often for landscapes. I never go wider than 20mm.

That being said, would carrying a 10-24 be overkill? Or even a 14mm or 12mm for that matter (point being, carrying another lens).

Could I get to 20mm by using the 16mm and stitching a few frames, perhaps using the Fuji panorama mode?

I'm pretty new to the Fuji system and trying to learn! The panorama mode intrigues me, but I can't find any samples of people using it to only do wide panoramas and not 180 or 360 panoramas. I'm aware that I could just get the 10-24 and not have 3 lenses, but landscapes aren't the only thing I shoot, and I need a fast wide for low light use and I won't get rid of my X100T. I'm trying to keep things versatile, and having just a 10-24 would be limiting since I'd only use it for landscapes (F4 isn't enough for me for depth of field control).

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Hello folks, here's my report on the finished eyecup for my X-T10.

I bought this item from shapeways - it's a 3D printed adapter ment for Nikon DK-19. And I ordered a original DK-19 also on ebay. Got it all in house, and tested it all today.

So how is it?

I have to start with the problems.
The eye sensor is covered, so you have to press the view mode button to change between LCD screen and EVF.
Second, the LCD tilting screen can't be tilted out directly from the top.
Third, it's not so easy to fit a flash.
But the biggest problem is that when I use my glasses, I can't see the whole EVF. It's quite comfy without my glasses on, but I really hoped that I could use the EVF with more ease without removing my glasses.

What's good?
It's sit tight, well designed and a good idea.

Will I use it? It depends on the kind of shooting I'm doing. For landscape photos on strolls in the bright summer sun it will be on. For streetwalk shooting, no way. Best setup will be if I get a second body, and have this with my 16mm and the other body with a zoom.

I took some pictures of this, but not having more than one body - please excuse the cell phone pictures.

Hope you find this helpfull.






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Moving to the dark side (once) Just for fun

Nik software (Color Efex Pro 4 + Silver Efex Pro 2)





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Hi all, and sorry if this has already been discussed.

I've noticed that the autofocus speed is significantly slower when using the OVF with the electronic range finder (ERF). If I use the OVF without the ERF, autofocus is snappy. For what it's worth, using the EVF is fine as well.

Anyone notice this or have some advice for me? I like the ERF but won't use it because it's too slow to focus.
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From my walk this morning; the catalpas are blooming this week. (XE-2 18-55)

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I like the idea of split screen very much. Now that I am trying the X PRO 2 its the first time I see it though I thought it should have been implemented years ago. Nonetheless, my results in using it are marginal at best.

I wonder how other use it or does everyone prefer the focus peaking.

If you use it, what are the circumstances that it becomes an effective tool?
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Pictures of Magda, last weekend
Used XPro 2 with XF35 f/2
XT1 with XF16-55 and some 56 f/1.2

Magda X-Series
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For the last two years my wife has adopted my X10, exclusively. It's basically hers now. Six months ago it developed a fungus spot a few mm across just off centre, that is slowly growing. I borrowed the camera two days ago and to my surprise can actually see evidence on the photograph. Into the sun it's as clear as day.

She uses the camera photographing for publications, work, archiving, all kinds of stuff, and even bothered to negotiate all the menus, which surprised even me. I believe the lens and sensor is a one piece unit on the X10 and would be uneconomic to replace. Is there likely to be an X40 soon, or should I opt for a new or used X10, xX20 or X30? No idea why the X10 succumbed to fungus, none of my other film or digital lenses and cameras that are kept with it have a similar problem.
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Took my ATV out for a ride into the wilds of Newfoundland last evening and stumbled upon this cabin in the foothills of the Blomidon Mountains.

I wonder who the lucky owners are?

Taken with the XPro2 and the XF50-140.

cabin life.jpg
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I'm continuing my "IRL" testing of SilkyPix Pro (now on referred to as SP) with my X-Pro1. I'm quite happy. Loving its control of colours, but highlights and shadows are a bit different to how everybody else seems to do it.

I'm always drawn to fairly quirky, centre left solutions (erm like Fuji :D) and I do not enjoy an overly clinical digital look to my shots. (YMMV)

I've never been one for all LR is so rubbish with .RAFs brigade, but I really don't enjoy using LR, I'm not sure why, but I don't.

I've never used PS.

I have the most experience with Capture One, and it's very, very good IMO. Perhaps a little over complicated, with far too many ways to do the same thing, but the layers make it a extremely versatile tool.

But it never does any harm to try something new, in fact it's actually fun to run the same raw file through different PP solutions, the results can SOMETIMES be so variable, that it's like you used different cameras :)

I'm still finding my feet with SP...

But (like I probably said already!) I'm pretty happy so far

The word 'filmic' gets used a lot, and there's various paths to a filmic image

But I'm not really one for plug-ins and pre-sets.... (YMMV) and the X-Pro1 has quite a filmic/organic/gritty/matte look to it's files anyway...

So the question for me, was does SP bring out what I like in a X-Pro1 shot?

And I've gotta say a resounding YES to that...

(whether or not it's limitations and quirks mean that it becomes my prime tool or just part of my workflow remains to be seen... things like that are a shot by shot basis anyway)

Anyway, I took a stroll round my 'hood and took some snaps!

Now these are just snaps, but I wanted to play with colour (FWIW, I often find that RAFs aren't the best with greens and sometimes sky blues YMMV, your workflow and PP skills probably vary too, so to reiterate, I PERSONAL find greens a bugbear, I'm NOT saying that greens are a bugbear)

I've resized these 50% as I can't remember what size the forum accepts for shots, and it annoys the hell out of me when it refused to upload :)

And AGAIN, these are situational test shots, not anything meaningful!

And sorry for the cat ones, she followed me, but she's handy because she's very dark with ginger bits, so offers a good test of shadow detail!!


I'm finding the colours natural, but I'm yet to figure out how to get the pop I get out of C1. I suspect the answer is .tiff>C1+layers :) But I want to use SP standalone and learn what I can with it for now


I used the (compared to C1) rudimentary layers tool on this, but to be fair it did the job I wanted..


Bright yellow, and green doesn't look like it was done with a highlighter pen :) = go SP !!


As cat shots go, this is pretty reasonable :D


Another colour test, another score IMO... (YMMV) I was looking at all the whites and blacks here, and the details aren't smeary...

Overall the noise is a bit higher than some other PP software, but I'm finding it very organic

I like quite dark, gritty textured pics, ideally that have an approximation of filmic colours

I feel that SP is delivering that for me (YMMV)

Pic upload limit is 5, so more coming up in a second!
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Taken with Samyang 12mm f/2.8 + Hoya ND400 filter

[​IMG]DSCF0328 by Teodor, on Flickr
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I'm thinking of buying a graphics tablet for processing work - not a heavy duty amount. Can anyone recommend a tablet and give me an idea what I should look out for? I've been viewing a Wacom Intuos Pen and Touch (small) and wondered the pros and cons of this. Also I'm still using Adobe Photoshop CS3 and wondered if this would work ok - I'm comfortable with CS3 so don't want to change if possible.
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it is to me allthough at this stage i feel a bit of a chareleton as i dont own one yet (made an offer on one today :)) but to me looks are important as probably allready discussed on here but i think for me and maybe most it harks back to the old film days .
and allthough most people would say its the photos that matter not the camera i need to feel i like something to use .it
an example is i have had over 50 motorbikes all do the same job but very few of them i love most do a job well but only my harley and old bmw airhead i love and want to ride all the time .
it was the same when i first got my old nikon fm2n i allways wanted to go out and take pictures i loved the camera but i allso loved the look of the camera..

so i am just waiting for my offere to be accepted or declined ,either way i am getting one .

many thanks
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Hey everyone, long time lurker, first time poster here.

Is it just me or does anyone else find X-Pro2 to be easily worn out? For example, I've noticed a lot of scratches on the bottom plate and a few on the top. "e" of the Made in Japan print is half gone already. And the red A on the shutter dial is gone 1/3 as well. Also a few scratches on the LCD, too.

I've been using my X-T1 for almost two years now, I never use protective stuff with my gear but my X-T1 is in much better cosmetic condition than my ~3 month old X-Pro2. There's only one scratch on the LCD and that's it.

And I must add, I am never reckless with my gear whilst shooting, I always take good care of them and am cautious. I even clean them up with microfibre cloth every week.

Anyone else have similer experiences?
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I have a lot of fun reading reviews and threads whenever a new X camera comes out, but I still haven't felt any desire to sell the X100 and go shopping. I'm not sure if I ever will.

Anyway, I'm just wondering if anyone else here is still shooting with the original X100 and feeling happily GAS free.

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Hello, this photos were taken walking in the old part of Vitoria, in the north of Spain. Hope you like them.

X-E2 + XF 35mm f/1.4


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Hello, this photo was taken in Noja, the north of Spain, hope you like it.

X-E2 + XF 18-55mm

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Not sure why I like this one (aside from the fact, she's the love of my life) but I really like it babe (1 of 1).jpg
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I primarily shoot Nikon but have always loved the Fuji X System and still have and enjoy my original X100. I jumped on the X System with the original X-Pro1 and had a love hate relationship with it. It was an absolute joy on paper and the IQ was amazing however it's slow AF and useless EVF (pre-any firmware updates, got it 1st week it was available) made me return it.

Although I did take some of my favorite shots ever of my daughter with it. Fast forward a few years and I got the itch after reading all of the reviews of the X-Pro2

All I can say is.. OMG! All the issues I had are gone, this camera is amazing and so much fun to shoot. I've had it about a week now with the 35mm 1.4 and have the 23mm & 56mm coming this week. Almost every image is spot on to what I envisioned prior to hitting the shutter. I mostly shoot RAW, but SooC is phenomenal especially with the ACROS film simulation (which is gorgeous and I'm having a real hard time matching in LR). The layout is amazing, even the ISO dial isn't horrible once you get used to it. I would like to set an FN button to adjust ISO (which I'm sure is possible when I RTFM). Combining Mechanical & Electronic shutter allows you to shoot wide open in all kinds of situations without having to add ND filters.

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Finally got my adapter.

For comparison, first pic is from the Fuji 55-200 @200 f/8 taken through the picture window (I need a ladder to get this picture outside). Was taken during golden hour.

Pentax 300 @ f/8 taken through the picture window - this was about one hour before golden hour on a different day from the 55-200 pic.

First picture I took with the 300 @ f/8

And this picture was taken @ f/5.6

I did these shots hand held and it was not that easy to manual focus due to the 450mm magnification. It is doable to handle though and with practice this lens appears to be pretty good. Definitely see the advantage of using the tripod. Close focusing is not possible but from what I understand that was a limitation due to the size of the lens which is about the same as a fully extended 55-200.
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After work today, I sped away to Cooper's Rock State Park in West Virginia to get some light biking in and hiking/photography. Below are a few of my favorites from the night. If you want to see a few more, visit my website here.

One thing I have to mention is that I bought Peak Design's new Everyday Messenger 13 bag and am blown away at how awesome the bag is. The new smaller size is perfect for my uses. The strap setup is ingenious and works as well while biking as it does while hiking.
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Finally stopped raining long enough to get out and shoot a bit with the new toy — XPro-2 w/ the Touit 32. Couple of night shots from a recently opened chunk of park near me…

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I pulled a good one this weekend. Shooting a mountain bike race with my X-T10 and X-T1, I noticed that the LCD and EVF on the X-T10 showed the images very heavy magenta with the white balance on Auto. Switching to shade, sun or any other WB's the magenta disappeared. Fortunately no riders where coming as I tried to figure out what was wrong. Finally got it, and as usual it was 'operator error', somehow I had hit "shift" while in the white balance menu then used the arrow keys to move the shift way up and right. Don't know why I was even in the white balance menu in the first place. Shooting raw I could have taken care of things in post, but I learned one more things about my Fuji's.
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Sunday was Greek Jewish Day on Broome Street. More here.

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Same fellow, same canal, always working it...X-E2, XF 18-55mm.

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Hey, I'm Lucas.

I'm 22 years old and work as a nightlife and weddings photographer in the southwest of England.

I discovered the Fuji x system through my Dad, who has a X-Pro 1 and let me mess around with it for a while when I last visited him.

Long story short, I loved the files that the camera produced, everyone told me that the 'Fuji jpeg's' are beautiful and I didn't believe it until I saw it.

Needless to say I got myself a little X-T10 as a taster camera to see how I liked the system in my day to day life, and I am amazed to be frankly honest. So now I am weighing up the pros and cons of potentially making the complete switch from my Canon 5D Mark III DSLR to a full Fuji only set up.

Yeah, I waffled a little too much there.

I hope that I can get on with you guys, and make some friends in the Fuji world.
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X100T After an exposure, the 'writing to card" light keeps blinking until "Next OK" appears on the LCD. when I press the OK button, the light goes off and I can shoot again. I don't think I changed any settings but this has not happened before. Bad card?
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x100s street life _DSF2658.jpg
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I do not know if this has been discussed before but fighting a serious case of boredom today, or lack of direction, I decided to pull out all my Fuji fixed focal length lenses and do an auto focus comparison to my 18-55mm and 16-50mm variable focal length lenses. This was prompted by a shoot I did last night of a ladies social group dinner in which I was using my 35mm lens and was a bit disappointed by the focusing in a moderately lit room. Last week I did a similar shoot using my 18-55mm lens and it seemed more reliable. I keep reading about how the camera is responsible for the AF speed and have always questioned the validity of those statements.

The contestants were my 14mm, 27mm, 35mm and 56mm lenses verses my 16-50mm and 18-55mm lenses. The cameras I used were my X-T1, my X-T10, my X-E1 and my X-M1. All are set to single auto focus and the focus frame is set two steps larger than the smallest rectangle as that is what I always use.

While I do not have any specific timing devices it became apparent that I did not need any lab quality equipment as the results were consistent and very obvious. The variable focal length lenses, zooms to many of you, locked focus much faster than any of the fixed focal length lenses. It wasn’t even close and the 18-55 seemed a bit faster and quieter than the 16-50mm. Then I tried the same tests in a somewhat darkened room, blinds all closed, and again the zooms locked focus quicker than the primes. Then I went into a very dark closet, no jokes please, and using the focus assist lamp the zooms both focused where none of the primes would.

As far as which primes were the fastest, it seemed that the 56mm was the fastest of the primes and the 27 about the worst and the 27 transferred more vibrations into the camera body during the focusing process. By that I mean you can really feel that motor doing it’s thing. The 14mm and 35mm seemed about even but again were noisy and transmitted more vibration to the camera bodies than the zooms.

While I seldom use any of the primes in the field, based on my personal testing, I won’t even consider any of them if there is any action faster than a snail race to be captured and I have to rely on auto focus. I also verified my suspicions that the AF is more dependent on the lens than the camera and yes, I am running the latest firmware. However again some of those claims about firmware controlling AF speed seem to be a tad bit exaggerated because after I did the test process with the lenses and cameras described above, I was storing the cameras and lenses in their drawers and I realized that the X-E1 I had not used (I have two of them) was not running the latest firmware for the 35mm lens. Using the 35mm lens I compared both X-E1’s and could not detect any difference in focus speed between the two cameras. Again no lab equipment to verify that finding.

From my perspective, the AF champs are the zooms and if anyone is interested in shooting action sports they are the only lenses I would consider. I’m tired from all this switching of lenses and camera bodies and somewhat surprised that in the process I did not drop one lens though several lens caps did find the floor and no metal lens mounts were scored or scraped. As a reward I deserve and will now indulge myself in an adult beverage.
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I'm using a Metabones N/F - X mount T adaptor with a Nikon 50mm/1.4 Ais. I've got the camera set to "shoot without a lens." I can manually control the shutter but not aperture. Changing the stops on the lens has no effect. However, it works fine when using the Nikon 24mm/2.8 Ais. Any suggestions? Thanks.

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OK so I've now had the X-Pro 2s for a couple of weeks and I'm really glad that I "Bit the bullet" and made the decision to ditch the Nikons and go Fuji. My wife, (also a press photographer) and I decided that we needed to up date our kit and after a lot of consideration, went for the X-Pro 2 and two sets of lenses. I've now had a chance to use the files both for electronic and print reproduction and love the quality of the images. I always shoot RAW and to be honest Silkypix is a real pain, but I love the film simulations. I think I will use Adobe CC for most things, though I have Capture One for my Mamiya 645 AF-D and Leaf back, so I may use that. Time will tell, I'm still playing with both.

I find the balance and ease of use reminds me of my Leicas from film days and they weight, or lack of it, is welcome as like most "snappers" I have a dodgy back. I have the 16-55 2.8 and the 50-140 plus the 1.4 converter and I find these really useful and they fit in the bag well. Some may know that I'm a "Brand Ambassador" for Domke and Tiffen International, so no prizes for guessing the kit is all in an ancient F-7 bag at the moment and all the lenses have Tiffen UV protector filters.

My regular kit these days is the 2 XP2 bodies with the above zooms and a 14mm 2.8 and a 35mm 1.4. I genarally have the two primes on the bodies to be ready to rock and roll at a moments notice. I also have 2 Nissin iQ40 flashes and three batteries per camera, battery life is nowhere near as good as many rivals, but it's OK as they are light and quick change.

The largest print I've made from the .RAF files so far is 24"x36" and it looks superb, this image was also used as a double page spread in the Daily Express and looks great, so overall I'm really pleased with the choice.

Now for the admittedly minor down points. I'm the night picture editor on the Daily Express and I'm seeing on the EXIF/IPTC data on a lot more files, the camera name field denotes taht they have come from X series cameras. However current Nikons and Canons save the camera serial number into the file, this can be really useful. They also have the ability to embed copyright details and photographers name, from the camera. This is pretty basic and needs to be addressed in a firmware update, as professionals need to be able to track images.

Overall I love these cameras, the last time I got excited of a new piece of kit was the D3s with it's low light capability. The XP-2s with their retro operation are opening up a lot of possibilities in shooting and as old and jaded as I am :) I'm getting a real buzz out of shooting again. If you want to check out my latest stuff see the New and views section of
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Hi folks,

Taking pictures of raptors and scavengers is an amazing experience. They are majestic, elegant and some of them are beautiful birds. Today I woke up earlier. I was picked up at 7am, at dusk. Outside was chilly, gloomy and foggy. While I was getting ready inside the photo hide, Juan, responsible of Vultour, was placing carrion in visible places.

The hide’s crystal spy was getting misted by my breathing. As soon as he left me alone nothing happened. However, 100 meters away from me, I saw something, then I realized that I wasn’t alone. There were pine trees full of Common ravens and some Red kites alighted waiting for their breakfast, it was the quiet before the storm... Continue reading the article: Raptors photo hide

Don't forget to visit my site here:

Below one of the pictures of the article taken by the XF100-400mm:

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This morning I had the opportunity to take some shots along the sea front before breakfast, a notice a couple swimming and grabbed a few shots; having bumped into them on the way back they asked me to send the pictures to them and I they agreed to have a picture of them taken on dry land...(Pro 1 with XF55-200 and X-M1 and 35 f1.4)

[​IMG]untitled shoot-016.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr

[​IMG]untitled shoot-017.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr

[​IMG]untitled shoot-018.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr

[​IMG]untitled shoot-020.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr

[​IMG]untitled shoot-018-7.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
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I attended an annual indoors International powwow event 2 days ago with my X-Pro2 and the 100-400mm lens. Lighting was somewhat low and the dancers were moving at a manic pace and my seat was some distance from the floor where at times hundreds of dancers performed.
Using the zoom lens at f5.6 (i.e. one stop closed down) my shutter speed was 1/60 to 1/150 or so, all at ISO 5000 and in RAW format.

Shown is a scaled down sample image of what the originals looked like, then 3 randomly selected crops out of randomly chosen full images. No PS or other manipulations/corrections were applied, just the crops down to around 45 x 45 pixels plus conversion to low-res JPGs. Later, with a little sharpening and ????? most of my images can go towards covering the cost of the monster lens.

That 100-400 zoom is a truly amazing performer !!!!

full-size.jpg powow1 crop.jpg powow2 crop.jpg powow3 crop.jpg
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Fuji has a great importer here who let me use X PRO 2 for few days. I am using it with my 12mm Samyang, Fuji 35 and 23mm f/1.4, Vivitar 100mm (nikon mount), and for the first time also zoom 16-55mm.

I was ready to use this camera as is despite the fact that none of my wishes to improve upon my X PRO 1 (tighter EC dial, Tilt screen and IBIS) were implemented.

My first impression was very good but than I started to look at my images and noticed a lot of noise in my OOC JPGs (noise reduction is on 0 and all other setting like grain on off day light shooting auto ISO).

Any idea what may cause it? what setting do you use for noise? (it works slightly better in RAW)

Today I tried to use my Samyang 12mm lens. one 1 of 10 images was sharp. I don't understand why the magnifying dial is sunken now. Unlike X PRO 1 it is so very difficult to use it. most of the time on each hit I change mode of focusing (normal, peaking which is not strong enough, split screen which is great on some lens useless on other ) but seldom do I make it to actual magnification... Not to be totally negative on the 100 Nikon it worked well.

There are other things like battery draining after 50 images or so and few other minor issues I can overcome with time but for now I feel that something is very wrong and I can't put my fingers on it.

With all the rave reviews I have read there must be a lot of things I am doing wrong. Any advice will be welcome.
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Hello. Just got a brand new 55-200 lens. It is making a really odd sound. I don't think it's the AF motor, as it makes the sound when in MF. Maybe it's the OIS, but I've had lenses that make OIS noises before (such as Canon ones), and those were more of a constant motorized hum sound. The sound I'm hearing from the 55-200 is more of a chirp-chirp-chirp, almost a digital type noise. It sounds quite close to an AF confirmation chirp. I'm getting it regardless of OIS on/off, whatever OIS mode is in.

Strangely, it is most pronounced and audible when I go from playback menu to shooting. I always hear this noise when I do this.

Any idea if this is normal or I have a bad copy of this lens?

EDIT: Also, I have 2 other Fuji lenses with OIS - the 2 kits (18-55 and 16-50). I can hear the OIS on the 18-55 as it kicks in when I start the camera or come out of playback. But that's a familiar motorized hum that I recognize as IS noise from other lenses. The noise I'm hearing from this 55-200 is quite louder and sounds different.
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