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Trying out my new 12mm Rokinon. Anyone want to give feedback on their preferred shot? Ignore sharpness as SS was low and should have used the tripod.


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Has anyone tried this flash yet? It's getting a lot of hype on the real estate photo boards and I'd like to try it out, just not sure how to fire the thing off camera. I could never get the X2T-C to work from my Fuji's.

I don't care about TTL or HSS (would be nice to have but not mandatory), manual is just fine.

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Time to share. Many may already know this, but when I process any images taken in harsh sunlight conditions I do 3 simple moves in Lightroom to remove those strong highlights and deep shadows: (1) I move the Highlight slider to -100, (2) I move the Shadow slider to +100, and (3) I increase exposure by moving this slider to the right. Try it. You'll be amazed by how much detail is returned to the image without affecting those wonderful Fuji colors. Here's an example taken yesterday when strong sunlight shadows and highlights initially rendered this image as one I would not show you all. And that's my tip for the day. Best, Don

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A few photos I found when I was going through my library. I love going through some older photos as if brings back all the memories of the trip.

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Crossroads Antigua Guatemala.jpg

Gathering Antigua Guatemala.jpg

Young Patient Antigua Guatemala.jpg

Tower Bridge.jpg
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X30

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just got back from a vacation in charleston . we had a fabulous time and took loads of photo's . my wife and i love photography and charleston was a perfect destination for us .

here are some of our shots

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this is my second post related to my new x100F, purchased yesterday and already used for several hours.

When I was first experimenting with different functions and learning the controls, I accidentally turned the camera on and went to use it with the lens cap on. I was using the OVF, so I didn't notice this at first. I had pressed the AEL button, and then I noticed the cap and removed it.

When I did so, the camera suddenly spun into what I can best describe as a AF seizure--perhaps because it was now drastically overexposed and this overwhelmed the AF system? The focusing motor made a loud clicking/spinning sound for about several seconds as I pushed buttons and then finally turned the power off. It didn't sound good.

Is there any way that I damaged the AF mechanism? I know that seems like a long shot. When I power up the camera now it makes a very audible focusing motor sound, similar to a quick "chirp", and I can't remember if it was so loud when I powered on before I caused this focusing short circuit. I had only had the camera for an hour or so, so I can't remember what it sounded like. I know, I'm probably just being paranoid... just curious if others have experienced this.
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I just got an x100F yesterday. Awesome camera. I am upgrading from a X-E1 that has seen lots of use over the past four years.

I have two unrelated questions (asking the other in a different thread). This one concerns the face detection feature, which is not something I have used on my cameras before, but I have seen it work on smartphone cameras. I read the manual and played around with it, and the behavior seems very odd:

  • I switched from point AF (S mode) to face detection. When I looked through the OVF, it continued to focus on the focus point even if a face was present elsewhere in the screen.
  • When I looked at the same scene using the LCD display, face detection appeared to work.
  • However, if there was a foreground object at the focus point and face elsewhere, the camera seemed to choose the focus point rather than face--but only sometimes.
  • in general, it does not seem to recognize faces nearly as quickly or consistently as the smartphones that I've used.
So I guess I'm hoping some other forum members can explain to me this feature. The biggest question is simply why it isn't working for me at all when I use the OVF. Or is it working and it just doesn't show the face-detection square in the OVF? If you have any tips for using this feature, please share. I doubt I'll use it much, but it would be nice to understand it.
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Straight out of the box, my X-T2 vertical power booster grip would not charge the battery on the right side. I confirmed this with three different W126S batteries and sent it to the Fuji repair facility in New Jersey, USA. I had it back in 10 days and it works perfectly. They even included a complimentary W126S battery. My compliments to Fujifilm on good customer service.

Oh, the Really Right Stuff L-Plate for the vertical power booster is excellent. For some reason it is not on the Really Right Stuff website yet, but BH has it: Really Right Stuff BVPBXT2-L L-Plate BVPBXT2 L-PLATE B&H Photo .
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with my xt-2, 14, 23, 56 and 90mm lenses.
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I recently purchased the excellent Fuji 16mm f1.4. I spent this week looking at examples of graffiti around London on my commute. All pictures taken with the 16mm.

Fuji X-T2 - London Graffiti

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Canon 7DMII + 100mmL macro...

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I got myself an X-T20 as a travel camera and easy to carry camera since I am usually carrying a camera bag/diaper bag and a baby. I tried it out at a few events that are my usual hardest to shoot events.
Indoor dance recitals in a dark auditorium and basketball in a dark gym.
When I got back to the computer I found the fuji files to be very good. I feel like I could get a little more out of the Canon if I really wanted to push things, especially cropping ability with the 5DS but the SOOC files were better than canon. I get good processed images in about 2/3 the time I spent with the canon.
Less time spent in lightroom is wonderful.
Weight savings is substantial. Looks like my complete kit is about 25% lighter. That is wonderful and now my whole kit fits into a mindshift backlight. The Canon kit wasn't even close to fitting in the backpack.

A couple weeks later I am still in the honeymoon phase but I am very very happy with the switch.

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Hi, all. I'm a relatively inexperienced hobby photographer and have just dipped my toe into the Fuji waters for the first time with a s/h XT-10 and (new) 35m f1.4 on the front. I've been using Olympus kit previously (E-30, with various primes and a few decent Zuiko zooms) but saw a demo of Fuji kit by British photographer Chris Upton, and was really taken by his work on the last working coal mine in Nottinghamshire. Now I'm giving Fuji a go with a view to moving over completely if I like it. I have to say I love the the look and feel of the XT-10 so far and can already feel myself drawn to an XT-2 at some point - I just hope my wife doesn't read this forum..!

Anyway, not sure I'll have much to offer in the company of so many experts on here but it'll be really useful picking up tips from others.
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IMG_1288.JPG Taken with xe2s and 35mm f2 and a bit of processing
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Hey dudes! I was doing some behind the scenes video for a short film I'm currently working on, and decided to put the continuous focus to the test during the down times - its a rough edit, but thought I'd share so you can see how the CF works.

Shot on the 18-55, 1920x1080 29.97 fps!
Most of it is hand held as well so we good idea of how the OIS works!

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X-T1 and 18-135, photographed from the upper deck of the Akademik Ioffe in Antarctica. Camera and lens functioned perfectly even in this harsh climate.



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As a new Fuji XE2 owner, I've just discovered an unexpected limitation. Apparently, I cannot auto-bracket 3 exposures greater than -1 and +1 stops from the normal exposure?

I believe this limitaion could easily be removed with a firmware update. What is the best way to contact Fuji to request wider auto bracketing?

I was really hoping to do some HDR shooting inside churches and historic buildings where the interiors are dim, and window light/stained glass is very bright.

My experience with combining 3 bracketed exposures for HDR indicates that plus and minus 2 stops - or more - is often required to capture the tonal range of some scenes.

Yes, I've read about using the Exposure Compensation dial to take additional exposures, but I will not have a tripod, and it's difficult to hold the camera in a fixed position while rotating the dial. Normally, I can get ok results in dim light by shoving the camera, or my body, against a wall, or column, or some other fixed object while the camera fires 3 shots. My HDR software can usually align these handheld shots - but if I let go with one hand to rotate the EC dial, that's going to add a lot more variation into the alignment process.

I just tested two sets of 3 JPGs, both sets bracketed at +/- 1 stop; changing the Exposure Compensation dial inbetween sets. It worked, but what a hassle.

Next I tried a set of 3 Fuji RAF files, bracketed at +/- 1 stop. I tuned the RAFs in Lightroom with the goal of preserving highlights, then exported them as 16-bit TIFFs for merging in Photomatix. Less work in shooting, but a bit more in post. Good results, though.

Here is the normal exposure RAF, converted to JPG without modifications for this post:
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And here is the result of merging the 3 fine-tuned RAFs in PhotoMatix:
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Are there any other solutions?
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I've had a Zeiss Contax (C/Y mount) 100mm f/2 for over a year now. I'm always nervous that I will damage it, so I don't take it out that often, but when I do, I am blown away by the images it produces. The classic "Zeiss" 3D look always makes me smile!

Images from a walk over the Manhattan Bridge, down through South Street Seaport, around Lower Manhattan, up through Battery park, and then back over the Manhattan Bridge.

All Sony A7ii, all wide open at f/2. The 100/2 is sharp as a tack at f/2 across the rame with no "glow", and extremely smooth bokeh "for a Zeiss". Truly an amazing lens.

Apparently, the Manhattan Bridge needs to be locked up to prevent theft.
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China Town Laundry Day. From Manhattan Bridge.
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Brooklyn Bridge as seen through Tulips. South St. Seaport.
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Pier 17 is nearly complete. It was damaged in Superstorm Sandy and has been completely rebuilt.
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South St. Vespa.
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I came across this interesting DoF Simulator Comparison tool that I found useful to get a sense of DoF specifically, how the background bokeh and compression would be affected by using different focal lengths.

I am not sure how accurate it is, probably not much, but it does provide some basic idea, especially when comparing two different lenses. I used it to decide which lens would I like to get first, FD 135 f2 or Nikkor ED 180mm 2.8. ( FD 135 f2 is on the way, Nikkor ED will be next)

Have fun: DOF simulator - Camera depth of field calculator with visual background blur and bokeh simulation.

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ps: I am not affiliated to the maker of this tool in any way.
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One concern I had about buying the Fujifilm XF 18-55mm F2.8-4 R LM OIS was it's closeup capability. Specifications list the maximum magnification as "0.15X" but I couldn't quite imagine just how close that would get me.

I've never owned a dedicated macro lens, and I'm not going to get one anytime soon because right now I'm trying to keep my kit as light as possible. In the past I've always used those basic "close up filters" - the ones that come in sets of three: +1, +2, and +3 diopter.

The 58mm filter diameter of the Fuji 18-55mm kit zoom is a new size for me, so I needed a new closeup filter/lens. This time I got the "DHG Marumi Achromat Macro 330" which provides +3 diopter. The "Achromat" design consists of 2 glass lenses, rather than the basic single lens found in most screw-on magnifiers. The Achromat design makes the lens quite a bit thicker (and heavier) than the single-lens designs, but should offer much better performance, especially at the edges. [Note: Marumi also makes a less expensive, single-lens +3 magnifer which is not an 'Achromat' - so beware when buying.]

I've not used it much yet, but preliminary results below. None are cropped and all are at 55mm, manually focused, at the minimum distance.

This is as close as I can get with the kit zoom at 55mm:
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Adding the Marumi Achromat Macro 330 +3 lens (sorry, I changed orientation. Also, my focus point was a bit off, so don't blame the lens on the soft forground):
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Another, at maximum magnification with the +3 Marumi:
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I just got a new X-E2S and wanted to assign a new role to the Fn 1 - AE button, as explained on page 45 of the manual. I changed it so that when I push this button, I get the EVF/LCD SETTING. It changed the assignment OK, but when I press the Fn1 button, it only shows me what the setting is, it doesn't get me to a place where I can change it. I have the latest firmware.
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Love my X100T.

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My sister and brother-in-law recently spent 6 days in Cuba. He shot with two x-e2s mounted with a 16mm 1.4 and an 18-55. He documented the streets of Havana. He put together a Blurb book of his 6 days. I think its really fine work. You can view the book here. You can click on the pages to go to the next page. Click the diagonal arrows to enlarge the view. He moved to the Fuji cameras about 6 months ago.
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Hi guys! I'm using vintage lenses on my Fuji X-E2 with the updated software. I like the feature on the command dial where you can push it in to zoom in 4x to help focus correctly.

I would like to move that function to one of the other buttons on the camera to make it more convenient to use. Any ideas if I can do this somehow?

Thanks for the help!

- Harin
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IMG_1273.JPG Taken with xe2s and 35mm f2
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Hello,

For those of you who like street photography, you might enjoy the work of Fred Herzog. Yesterday, I took in an exhibit of his work at Equinox Gallery in Vancouver. This exhibit is of selections from his latest book Modern Color. I've see his work on line before, but to see a room full of these beautiful pigment prints was awesome.

He was mostly active in the 1950's, 60's and 70's, shooting Kodachrome transparencies. This would have made display of his work as an artist difficult, so it is only in recent years that that he has achieved public acclaim.

Equinox Gallery Vancouver - Works by Fred Herzog

Herzog is still alive and well, living here in Vancouver.

JRJ
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My granddaughter
Taken with xe2s and 35mm f2 IMG_1243.JPG
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Few days ago I went to take some portraits with the X-T2 and XF 50mm WR at a studio with strobes.
I rarely shoot this way but I know that in order to see on the EVF, you have to turn off Preview Pic Effect mode.
However there were times that the X-T2 was struggling to focus, partly because it was slightly dark (low key shots) but even in high key, it was struggling a bit too.
Settings on the camera was ISO 200-400, f/5.6-8 at 1/250 with 2 strobes illuminating the model.
I also tried turning on AF Illuminator and discovered that it wouldn't worke unless the lens was wide open, f/2 with the XF 50mm WR.
If it was stepped down the AF Illuminator wouldn't work. Is this normal?
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Hey everyone!

I'm a Canon shooter looking to get into a smaller system. I currently shoot with a 7D, Canon 70-200 2.8 mkii IS, Sigma 24-70 2.8, and a Tamron 17-35. Now, although I love the speed of my 7D and 70-200 combo, I can't get over the weight. My fiance and I had a child over a year ago, and the camera has been left at home more and more in favor of my iPhone.

So, I'm looking at getting into a lighter system. I used to be a big fan of getting an older generation body to save some money, but this time around I want to go with the latest and greatest. That leads me to looking for an X-T2 and 18-55 combo. I shoot a wide range of stuff from my family, to drifting/motorsport, to landscape and a dabble in astro stuff. After looking at reviews/specs I've come to the conclusion that the X-T2 would be a great all arounder for me. Only thing left to do is sell off some of my kit to finance the X-T2 purchase.

I'm excited to be getting into different system and having a more travel friendly setup!
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Alas, the locking button on the shutter speed dial on my X-Pro2 stopped working and would no longer operate as intended, I had to hold it down to release the dial from "A" and then it would move freely throughout the range and lock again in "A".

This meant that it had to go back to Fuji UK, registered the repair / heard nothing, made a phone call and had an apology and promise to send out return paperwork / box etc which they did.

I dispatched that camera last week as requested with proof of purchase etc and received it back today apparently with a replacement top cover - opened the box and the top cover was the original ( still had the tape over the eyepiece adjustment wheel) and the problem had not been resolved, it looks like they just put it back in the box and returned it untouched!!!!!!!!!

Made a phone call and got an apology (of sorts) and I now have to return it again for hopefully a proper repair this time!

I hope this is not an omen as a colleague of mine had his 100-400 back to Fuji UK 3 times and in the end got a refund and has now changed brands - I certainly do not want to do that but do expect at least an attempt to fix a problem before sending the camera back.

Needless to say I will be without the camera for another period of time and anxious about the quality of service I receive this time round.

I did send an email to the General Manager of Fuji UK and to my delight have received a personal email back from him with a promise to look into it and get back to me today - now that is good service and I look forward to a satisfactory solution.

Watch this space for the update.
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My thumb rest came off my beloved X-T10 - can't find it anywhere. Mixed feelings about getting it repaired at fuji as it would cost £130 but I would get another 1 year guarantee (its currently not under warranty).

Instead I called fuji and asked if I could just have a new rubber thing to stick back on myself and they are sending me one in the post - no cost. Thank you fuji for a most sensible response.
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This is a very unscientific test, but it gave me some positive answers though. None of the filters tested gave any colour cast or vigneting, not even when stacked. I'm a happy camper.

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HI Everyone.

I was a member here for a bit, but forgot to add to the new member intro section.

I am a father of 2 boys, one 18.9 and in university and a 10 year old with autism. We love to travel, and my wife, and youngest do as much as we can.

I am starting to take the Fuji photography thing seriously now, I tried many other brands of cameras including canon, sony, Olympus and pentax, buying into their systems each time. My first "real" camera was a Fuji 9100 prosumer. I moved on from that to the above listed....I missed the "Fuji POP" that you can only get with Fuji camera sensors. I purchased an X-S1 and X10 a couple of years ago, and for the most part they sat in my camera bag. Only because I was busy with other things in our lives. This year, I am starting a new business, and the weekends are going to be more downtime and relaxing. I am going to be taking my cameras ALOT more on travels with my family and taking ALOT more photos! It has bit me again this past couple of months. We do a lot of camping, traveling to different places and adventure driving in the back country here.

I am going to be documenting that more. And getting our blog back up and running. Something I have a big interest in.

Stay tuned in for updates!

Steve
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I've probably missed it somewhere along the line, but I have installed the new firmware and would like to know if there is a full list somewhere that gives all of the changes and new introductions?

I've seen the copyright page as an obvious example - but ... what else exactly?
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