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I have a Fuji X-T1 and a Canon 5D MkIII. I have a HiTech 100x100mm filter holder and HiTech 3-stop ND solid and Grad filters. I have been using with the Canon with no problem. But when used with the Fuji I get a definite magenta color cast. From research I believe this is attributable to the absence of any IR filter in the Fuji, and also that the HiTech filters do not filter the IR.
Is this a correct understanding?
I have become aware of the Nisi filters.
I note on the Nisi website product description of the Nisi 100x100mm Nano IR Neutral Density filter... that "do not affect the coloration of the image" .
Would it be safe to assume that using these Nisi filters in combination with the Fuji X-T1, one would not get a color cast. Has anyone had experience with these Nisi filters?
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Tasmania is my home. Once know as Van Diemans Land, it is an island of contrasts. Wild and rugged mountains, lush pasture, untrodden beaches. Some of the best wines, best food, best air and best water on the planet. Don't come here and steal all my light :D
[​IMG]Diamond Island I by Nigel Cross, on Flickr

X-T1, 16-55
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Did anyone find the measurements for the nodal points on the current lens lineup?

All I could find online was this:

18mm: 69
23mm: 62
35mm: 52
55mm: 42

Any help would be appreciated, as it seams a lot of work.
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Hi all, I wondered if there is anyone with knowledge on the durability of the finish on the XT-10. I know the XT-1 Silver edition has a (supposedly) stronger finish. My black XT-1 seems to have a softer black finish you need to be careful with. How is this with the black and silver XT-10. Would it matter what color I would get?
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More than 50% of them take place within 5 miles of my home. :)

Come to think of it - these are less than 1 mile from the casita. It's so easy to always have an X camera while out walking the dog.

Luckily Lake Washington is nearby. X-T1 50-230 I love the compact light nature of this lens. On a sunny day - it's hard to beat.

[​IMG]Untitled by j c, on Flickr

[​IMG]Untitled by j c, on Flickr

X-T1 w/ 18-55 kit lens

[​IMG]Untitled by j c, on Flickr

X-T10 35 1.4

[​IMG]Untitled by j c, on Flickr

X-T10 56mm

[​IMG]Untitled by j c, on Flickr

All jpegs. No fancy software. Straight to iPhone or iPad - a little bit of Snapseed and done.
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recently just got myself a fuji x100t in silver color,
have been trying to look for a 49mm clear filter to protect the lens. but it seems to me B+W and Hoya doesnt produce filters in silver color anymore???
I remember B+W use to have filters in silver but it was discont??
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Rockport Maine

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I just subscribed to LR/PS CC 2015,
I have a complete set of the Topaz Plugins, but, I don't know where to put them so I can use them.

In PS CC14, I copied them in a "Plugin" folder, but in PS CC15, the folder structure is labeled differently..

Any help is welcome...

I use a Windows 10 Computer, if that helps.
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Taken with an Olympus E-M1 and the consumer grade 40-150 lens

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If you haven't noticed -or don't really care- the dollar has been weakening against the yen of late. Am hoping that it doesn't revert back to its 2012 levels (mid to upper 70s) but it was bound to level off some. Not sure where this is headed, but the yen is definitely a safer bet at the moment ...
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A recent thread on another forum got me thinking about the way people use their cameras. Are you the type of shooter who frequently dives into the menus while you're shooting, or are you the kind of person, like me, who rarely ever sees the menus again once your camera is set up? If you are making frequent menu changes in the middle of shooting, what kind of changes are you making?
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There is a lot of talk about IBIS in the threads. Recently AKASHI UENO has released the fate of IBIS in regards to the XF mount in an interview here.

“Our highest priority is always image quality”. Interview with Takashi Ueno and Shusuke Kozaki from Fujifilm Japan.

TOMASH: Are you looking into IBIS (in-body-image-stabilization) on future Fujifilm cameras? If not, why?

TAKASHI UENO: First of all, our XF mount is not compatible with IBIS. You may be thinking that our mount size is similar to competitors’ and why Fujifilm cannot do it. The answer is simple: for the sake of image quality. IBIS has both advantages and disadvantages. IBIS moves the sensor in the mount to stabilize the image. To secure the amount of light at any position, the diameter of mount must cover the wider image circle considering the margin of sensor movement. The diameter of our mount was designed for the image circle without IBIS. It means the amount of light at the corners is reduced when the sensor is shifted. We could correct it digitally, but we don’t want to do it: we don’t want to compromise our image quality.

TOMASH: Why didn’t you design a mount in a size, which would allow implementing the IBIS?

TAKASHI UENO: To cover the larger image circle, not only mount size (and body size), but also lens size must be bigger. We are pursuing the best balance of image quality, size and weight of both cameras and lenses, operability and performance. When we were deciding on the design of our mount, we decided to provide the best quality body and lens in comfortable small package as the best balance. And we don’t think this direction will be changed in the future. Our highest priority is always image quality. We hope you agree!
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The Last Blast of Dying Sun Over Daelivann Fields in Norway.
My aim was to create the most dynamic and yet very much balanced luminous landscape image.
I'm learning :)
Input of very well experienced landscape photographers is very welcome :)

Twilight Over Daelivan's Fields 35 Ex.Shad _provia_20__DSF0735.jpg
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I'm seeing 2 versions of Fuji X-mount 23mm f/1.4 lenses popping up for sale here and there.

One is the current version the Fujinon Aspherical Lens Super EBC XF 23mm f/1.4 R it takes 62mm filters.

The other is a Fujinon Aspherical Lens Super EBC 23mm f/1.4. The front of the lens does not have an XF (though the box is marked XF). It takes 52mm filters. I'm thinking, but I don't know for sure, that this one is from the original X-Pro1 kit.

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My x100s focuses great in low light when the AF assist light fires but sometimes it just doesn't fire unless it is really dark...

It would be nice if the AF assist light would come on when it is a bit lighter too...

Does anyone know a way to force the AF assist light to come on when focusing? Or maybe trick the camera into using it???
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A few more photos from the obscure classic, Leaning Tree (WI3 220m), in Wyoming.

A super steep approach gully finally leads into the beautiful Clark Canyon. Care must be taken on the ice bridges and shelves: the water is deep, fast, and cold. 12mm Touit

The first pitch of Leaning Tree. Only about a quarter of the climb is visible from this angle. 12mm Touit

Starting out the third ropelength. The 8mm is great for capturing the action while still being able to share the anchor with everybody. Samyang 8mm

The final, super fun, chimney pitch. I snapped this quickly during my lead. I think that I would have preferred to have set hyperfocus on the lens before I started climbing. It's too hard to adjust one-handed while in an awkward positon.

Heading toward the series of bridges that lead to a way out of the canyon. I'm glad they stayed intact during the warm afternoon. 18-55mm at 18mm (I think)
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The first real sunny day for weeks so I decided to give my XT10 some exercise. 18-55 f2.8-4
The Temple of the Winds at Mountstewart, County Down, Northern Ireland, overlooking Strangford Lough.
Temple o f the Winds-1.jpg
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Hi hopefully someone can help me, i have owned an x100s from new for a year now, finally discovered a timed mode next to the bulb mode by reading some internet blogs.

Problem is with mine when i go down through the shutter speeds it goes, 16,8,4 and then 2 instead of T??

Bulb mode appears to be ok, but in T mode when i move the control dial all it does is adjusting the aperture increments NOT the timed exposure which it should be.

Not sure if its something i am doing wrong or mine is missing this function?
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Out and about today around the northern part of Norfolk, via fakenham, cromer and the coastal road back to hunstanton. I dont usually do landscapes, i dont have the patience to wait for mother nature to create magical light, but today was the exception, and mother nature was awesome! blakeney2.jpg cromer2.jpg blakeneysunset.jpg

Fuji X-a2
Fuji 35/2 R WR
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I just got the new firmware for the x-e2 which gave the camera an electronic shutter option. If you are shooting on a tripod and your subject is a still life or landscape with no subject movement would it be better to use the electronic shutter rather than the mechanical shutter? My thoughts are that it would eliminate any kind of shutter vibration during the exposure. I used to use live view in my Canon days when shooting these types of subjects. I don't see anyway that it could hurt.
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A buddy of mine challenged me to post 7 "Nature" pictures on another site. No one else was doing underwater shots. Thought I might share a few here too.


Nemo 2.jpg

Sea Horse.jpg


red lace lr.jpg
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I'm hoping someone on the Forum can point me to a resource for calculating an hourly rate that takes into account taxes. I'm working on idea for some part-time work and don't want to overprice myself and scare away potential clients. But I don't want to undercharge and be left with very little after taxes. Thanks in advance for any tips.
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Played around a litle, to see how close it was possible to get to a subject. This is the result.

This is the end of a finger ring, head of the snake is around 4-5mm long, 2-3mm wide.


Next post will contain further info.
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We are seeing more and more options coming to the fuji in camera JPEG engine (especially since the Xpro-2):
- more film simulations (Classic Chrome, Acros)
- more fine controls (extension of the settings from -2/+2 to -4/+4 for some filters)
- totally new filter: grain control

In that trend, I would personally love see a new filter bring some more control in regards to what is often called local or micro contrast (or Clarity filter in Lightroom or ACR). That filter is often pivotal in making my image "pop", especially when doing B&W.

Additionally, having a tint filter when doing B&W could also be nice, I like adding the slightest hint of orange/yellow in my B&W conversion to warm up the photo. That might be a tiny be complicated to implement in camera though as it usually requires really fine tuning, but one can dream :)
Dylan leading the third pitch of Leaning Tree, western Wyoming. A perfect sunny day for a climb.

The 8mm doesn't work in very many situations, but sometimes the landscape is just perfect.

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Just received this email from Rocky Nook:

Rocky Nook has released another free ebook guide titled, Making the Move to Capture One Pro from Lightroom or Aperture

This helpful guide makes the transition to Capture _One just a bit easier. It’s designed for those who are considering making the switch but aren’t sure where to begin. We’ve outlined the process to include:
• An overview of Capture _One Pro 9 and its capabilities
• Transition strategies from Lightroom or Aperture
• Importing methods
• Creating test libraries and catalogs
• A list of key image editing features
Plus, use the coupon CAPTUREONE40 which offers 40% off our full eBook Capture One Pro 9

Also don't forget: forum members get 10% off Capture One using code AMBFUJIXFORUM at this link.
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Hi all,

Does anyone has experience with the adapter settings in the Fuji menu when using the M-mount adapter?

What I don't understand for example is the following: you can set the peripheral illumination correction to a certain value, but this effect depends on the chosen aperture. So when you have a wide angle lens, this effect is much stronger at F1.4 than it is at let's say F8.0, but you can only choose one value (?)

Anybody some experience with this or the setting in general.

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While picking up my dog yesterday at the groomers, snapped this shot of this female poodle that seemed fascinated with me. Now, if I could just have that effect on females of my species :rolleyes:

X100, 1/70 at f/2.0

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Withered in B-W.JPG
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Does anyone use the Camera Remote App and, if so, under what circumstances is it useful?
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A remodeling of a picture of last year
X-T1 + XF 50-140

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I recently bought one of these on ebay. The lens is in excellent condition and I've no reason to think it is faulty. But I'd like to know whether the following phenomenon is normal for the lens.

With the lens attached to my X-T1, there is a constant low-level 'rumbling' noise. Is this normal?

It is very low level and really needs my ear next to the lens barrel to hear it. I'm not concerned about the noise itself but it implies there is a constant drain on the battery.

The camera menu option "IS MODE" is set to "SHOOTING ONLY".

The noise is there whenever the camera is switched on regardless of whether the OIS switch on the lens barrel is On or Off. The noise is not down to the autofocus mechanism because setting it manual focus makes no difference.

Same happens when the lens is mounted on my X-E1.

Images taken with IS on are substantially sharper than those with it switched off (at constant shutter speed) so the IS is working as expected.

As I say, it probably isn't a fault but like to know whether it's normal behaviour for the lens.

Thanks in advance.

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One of the local TV stations used one of my pics as a backdrop for the weather tonight. A pretty unremarkable pic but what the heck I'll take a quick half a million views of my pictures any day! :D


It is actually a 6 shot stitched panorama of the Walhalla Cricket ground. The "fun" part of this ground is that it is 200 metres (650 feet) above the township of Walhalla up a narrow winding pathway. The ground was hewn from the hill top by hand using picks and shovels by the gold miners of the area in the late 19th century. There are no facilities and no water at the ground and surface is as rough as. There is no way I would be trying to stop a cricket ball bouncing along the ground thats for sure.

X-T1, 18-55

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