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Hi everyone. So I may have asked this before but I just cant remember. But a small issue came up over the weekend that leads me to ask. So over the weekend I shot a prom at The Palace of Fine Arts in SF. For those of you that have been there. Its beautiful in the dome and getting pictures there. So my issue is. The few ladies I was shooting for asked me if I can do a shot of them with the building behind. Using a 50mm olympus I had mounted, did not make this easy at all. So my question is. Im finding myself shooting a lot where people want the background. Such as golden gate bridge behind them, etc. Though the 50mm can do it, thats not always the case. So what is a good Fuji lens that you guys recommend where I can do this? I was thinking 23mm would be good for this. Stop it down and have my subject and the beautiful background in focus. But want more thoughts behind this. Thank you :)
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Sitting in the parking lot with my faithful pooch. :)

[​IMG]Untitled by j c, on Flickr

X-T10 35mm F2
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I just took advantage of the Fuji rebate sale and added the 14mm. So far I am impressed. This is a shot I took this weekend from just across the road from my mailbox in St. George, Utah. This is nothing too spectacular, but reminds me of a chat that I had with some Canadian tourists a couple of years ago in Zion National Park (about 40 miles from SG) who had just been in New Zealand. Having just recently been in New Zealand myself (a country that I dearly love), I asked if they had seen Fiordland and what they thought. They commented that Zion National Park impressed them more. (To all you kiwi's, I think NZ is a most diverse and beautiful country and I had longed for years to visit Milford).
Anyway, my point is, that we all very likely have spectacular scenery that we take for granted. This is a vista that I have taken for granted.
I hope that we all can appreciate the beauty in our own back yard. My X-E2 and the Fuji 14mm.
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Chiba, Japan. XT-1 Taken this past weekend... 4:30am sunrises are pretty tough to manage the older I get.. :)


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I've been lurking around the internet combining bodies with lenses fit for wildlife.

The first try was a new Canon 70d coupled with a 400mm 5.6L. While the lens was a fantastic performer in terms of AF, I could not judge it's optical performance due to the bad quality sensor they put in that camera. I was so disappointed that in 2 days I returned both.

Then I flirted with the cheap but seemingly fantastic Tamron 150-600. Coupled with the D600/D610, it can deliver incredible results from what I see on Flickr. While the image quality and ISO performance would've been amazing, the weight of the combination seemed high at ~2800g.

Now, for the same price as both of the combinations above, but for 1kg less, I had the crazy idea to get myself a Fuji lens, the XF100-400. I just hope I won't regret not getting the Nikon combination...

I still need to sell my beloved X-E2 to get the X-T1 (WR), so if anyone's interested in an X-E2 at about 10k shots we can arrange something.

Also, I will come with a follow-up when I tried the X-E2 + 100-400 because there doesn't seem to be alot of information around about how this combination performs.
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Floating Harbour taken with X100T
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Shooting at one of south shields beaches, i came across this rock, kinda looks like a zombie head.
More so in black and white.
XT1 18-55mm

scary rock1.jpg

scary rock1b and w.jpg
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I can't afford an X70 as I am saving up for an X-T2, so with cost being taken into consideration, I was wondering about a 2nd hand interchangeable lens body as a backup camera and for use as a kind of pocketable option when mated with 27mm.

Both the X-M1 and X-E1 are often on eBay for a good price. I know what the spec differences are, so I am looking for people opinion's on which they would recommend.
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One of the drawbacks of using RAW is the files are typically rather flat and insipid SOOC, nevermind you can develop them into a thing of beauty but its a rather uninspiring starting point. This has always bugged me, shoot an amazing scene and then have to face the lifeless RAW files, takes an edge off the thrill of seeing your pics for the first time and I typically don't like applying a normal LR preset (especially that tweaks colour) on import as sometimes it doesn't work very well and can can confuse things.

Anyway Adobe decided to get all the stock SOOC Fuji jpeg emulations setup and added to LR as camera calibration profiles, apparently this kind of thing has been there for many makes/cameras(I went and checked and Canon specific emulations are there for my 5D files, also work rather well) but I've never heard about it(or paid attention) until now.

People rave about the SOOC jpegs on Fuji bodies and then someone mentioned the emulations/profiles are in LR and the light bulb went on. Hearing I could get something close to those SOOC jpegs immediately on import with RAW made my heart race a little. A calibration profile is a lot more sophisticated and matched to your camera than a preset using sliders on the develop modules.

I tried it out and it works like a charm!!
The Astia seems to be a nice middle ground, Velvia is rather saturated and Provia is a little dull, horses for courses though. Easy enough to retroactively change the profile, it makes sorting the images for keepers so much more pleasant(possibly also easier) and a nice start to edit from.

I found out how to get each Calibration into a preset so that it can be applied to files on import. Also as a preset it make it easier to preview and apply them whilst in develop mode:
How to Get Accurate Fuji Colors in Lightroom

When making my presets I only ticked the “Calibration” box, doesn't seem necessary to check anything else,especially it may mess things up if you tick “White Balance” and on an image you edit the white balance and then apply the preset.

Apparently the profiles are also available for Adobe Camera RAW, ie in Bridge or Photoshop.

I noticed the presets I made using the X Pro-1 profiles work on my X-M1 files as well (selecting the native X-M1 calibration profile in the Camera Calibration module makes no difference) but only the profiles the X-M1 natively has in camera, emulations like MONOCHROME+Ye FILTER don't work. So it appears the profiles are perhaps a bit generic but still a great start point.

Has anyone compared how accurate these profiles are in comparison with SOOC jpegs?
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just received my X70 from Amazon, a bit late to go out with it having charged the battery....but its looking good..!
Though the two RAF files I took will not open on my Lightroom 5.7...which apparently is up to date?
(when I had an XT1 I had no trouble)
[​IMG]untitled shoot-033.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
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Present gear is X1oos, X E1, 18mm, 18 - 55, 55-200.
It will be awhile before the budget will run to the XPRO 2 should I wait or pick up an XPRO 1?
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I am new to forum just brought a x10 I want small bag which I can fit camera in with hood fitted to lense.
I have case but won't fit with hood fitted.
Just getting used to camera wanted something a bit lighter than my s3pro
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OK, I give up -

I'm sure this has been answered before, and I had the procedure in an open browser window a month ago, but can't find it now -

** How do you use Kipon's FD to Fuji X-mount adapter so the FD lens stops down when you turn the aperture ring?

I have an FD 100-300mm f/5.6L lens I bought to use on an X-E2, and can't get it to stop down with the Kipon adapter I also bought.

Thanks for your help.
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Recently hired a 90mm f2 for my XT1 for some casual wedding gig shots, results have been fantastic, I hired just to get a flavor of living with this lens. The lens is a bit heavy on the body as its built very well although a vertical grip may balance it out, the color rendition and the out of focus areas are sublime in my eyes. At the moment I am feeling that my personal uses could be limited as I found myself quite far back from the subject, when sometimes I didn't want to be so in tight spaces I would be stuck. That said all the pictures I took with this focal length were great. I think I will get a 56mm for loan just to see the comparisons for myself, I am expecting great things and hoping the focal length works for me although I wasn't crazy about the 50mm Nikon DX I had but I image the color contrast & bokeh on the fuji will be on a different level.
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Something I haven't seen anyone complain about and is really starting to annoy me (not enough to give it up though) is the white font on the OVF in bright situations

Please Fuji, give me an orange option (or anything I can still see without having to shade it with my finger)

Other than that I still very much love this camera
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...for veterans everywhere.

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I don't shoot video and have reassigned the video button ( default Fn 7) to other duties. Now having gone the shooting and setup menus in detail, I cannot find a setting to record video other than one of the function buttons.

I don't actually need or want to make videos, but I'm still curious about how this can be done without assigning a function button. Comments?
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Last night with the X-T10 and the 18-55 lens...100% crops



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One by one, I'm going through my collection of adapted lenses on the Panasonic GM5 Micro Four Thirds body.

The Contax 100mm f/2 Distagon was the first one I tried, and it worked very well on MFT. The day I took it out was a tough day for photography, with flat, hazy light, but I was very happy with the results: Contax 100/2 and America's Cup - MFT

The Contax 85/2.5 Sonnar is magic on the full frame A7, and was nothing short of amazing on MFT. Sharp, contrasty, with all that great Zeiss pop: Contax 85mm f/2.8 Sonnar - On Pana GM5 (m43)

Yesterday, I chose the Contax 28/2.8 Distagon. I wasn't expecting to enjoy the equivalent 56mm FOV as much as I did. The "normal" FOV combined with the close-focusing ability of the 28mm (0.25m / 10") was a lot of fun. It was the classic "3 H's" here in NYC (Hot, Hazy, Humid), with temps in the low 90's F. I took my regular walk around Brooklyn Bridge Park, and found that the 28mm (56mm) gave me some new perspectives on an area I have photographed pretty extensively. I was, once again, impressed with the sharpness and contrast.

All with the Pana GM5 and Contax 28mm f/2.8 MMJ. All at f/2.8.


Manhattan Bridge with Police Skiff.

Master Lock "Selfie".

Pier 5 Soccer Fields.

Furled Genny.
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Foothills of the Rocky Mountains in south-western Alberta two days ago. I was visiting a ranch.




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1. Scar, on old trotter
2. Appaloosa



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A couple more from the series.


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I just love this lens. For a 16mm f1.4 it's incredibly sharp and renders colours so well. And the AF is fast too. Just a couple of shots from the last few days. The first shot of the flower was shot at f1.4 at very close quarters. The second shot is of my son watching the football, using bounce flash from the EF20. Has anyone found a better wide angle lens or on that is as good?


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Hi all
Going for a walk this afternoon with xt1 35 f2 at a local market.
I find I am going through a phase of converting photos to B&W (silverfx) and I am reflecting on what are my guidelines for doing so should be.
For example, same photo colour and BW at f2.2 at 180
Not the best photo I am the first to admit, but am curious which do you think would have more potential; BW or colour, assuming if I composed it better. Thank you for any comments.

north point market colour.jpg

north point market.jpg
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When I got my first digital camera in the latter part of the last century, a 1.1 megapixel Sony Mavica, it recorded the images on 3.5in floppy disks. 4 images to a disk, it felt like I had gone back to the old 5 x 4 plate camera days, changing floppy disks. I decided to keep all the disks after transferring the images to my hard drive, in those days the post processing programs over wrote the the file each time you made changes. I still have all those floppy disks which, is more than I can say for all the photos I have taken since then, which led me to thinking that it might be a good idea to keep all my pictures on the SD cards, mark them with the date and location and store them in a box. SD cards are cheap and I will always be using new cards so no chance of corrupted cards.
I might just add that I don't take thousands of photos at a time.
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I stopped at one of our local allotments and took a walk around and chatted to some of the people working there, it is always a peaceful place that shows a lot of love and devotion to nature and some of its beauty.

Allotment 1.jpg Allotment 3.jpg Allotment 5.jpg Allotment 6.jpg Allotment 7.jpg
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I took this today of a train engineer at Greenfield Village, Dearborn, Michigan.
X-Pro2 + XF35/2.0

20160528 050b
by Ron Smith, on Flickr​
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Last week I acquired a 50-230 mm for a price that I couldn't refuse. I already have the 50-140, but it's quite a beast and I figured the 50-230 would come in handy when I wouldn't want to take the weight. These last few days I've been playing with it and testing it on some wildlife (mostly birds) in the neighbourhood. Unfortunately, the 230 tele end is still a bit short and the autofocus a bit slow for bird photography (or I just need to get better at it, a very real possibility). I did, however, find some other subjects that didn't move as fast. Like eh, the sun..

Taken at the local lake (Kagerplassen). All photo's with the XC50-230 at it's tele end and mostly f/8. Do hope you enjoy them.

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I'm looking for a lighter & more compact tripod.

My current tripod is 8½ pounds and ridiculous overkill for my X=E1 so it mostly stays in the car. (Or house. It was bought mostly for a 4x5 camera.)

I suppose I could save some weight (and a lot of volume) by switching to over to a ball head, but it is still an awkward 30" collapsed. Or do I just need to make (or have made) a tripod sling?

Some of the Gitzo carbon fiber tripods look nice, but d*m they are proud of 'em. I'm not interested in paying the price of a 55-200mm lens for a three legged beast.
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Who is slower than you, and we are not so fast as to run over anything on the roads, this one a rail trail between Warnambool and Port Fairy, Vic. Not that one would cry much over crunching a humble snail perhaps, there were hundreds of them, all very single minded in their task of crossing the dirt road.

Just a fun snap with the very travel friendly XM1/18/55 combo.

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Enjoyed a visit with a friend, Brother Daniel, a Benedictine Monk (32 years) at Prince of Peace Abbey in Oceanside, CA. The grounds are amazing, a favorite retreat for contemplative meditation. XPro2 18-55 PC-Peace Abbey_000.jpg .
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You spend close to $600 on a ladder in order to be safe for multiple two story projects on the house this summer and you grumble about it because you keep thinking about the camera gear you could have purchased with that money. :p
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When using my Pro2 the EVF data vanishes after a few seconds. This is very weird as when I put the camera to my eye I can see everything in the EVF display, grid, exposure info, etc. But after about 2 seconds it vanishes. And sometimes the display on the back of the camera also does this. I poked in the manual but can't see a setting that would cause this. Any ideas as to what is wrong here?

Zack S
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Yes I'm fully addicted, bought 8 lenses and loving the range and prices of these amazing lenses. Combined with the XT10 or XT1 we all know how great the results are. Just love primes.

Question - with my collection growing quickly, how is everyone storing these lenses? I'd imagine I'll end up with 20 lenses :D from 28mm to 135mm, and with only 3-4 in my bag at once, I've been thinking about getting one of those Pelican cases with the pluck foam to safely store the rest.

Thoughts or suggestions? Thanks :)
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I was in the Denver, Colorado area this week for my niece's graduation from medical school, and I wanted to get her a Fuji Instax camera on the idea that she would, from time to time, have families who would appreciate a real photo of happy times when their loved ones were recovering from illness. So I hit the streets in search of the camera and walked in to Englewood Camera. (I live in Texas and my superb local dealer can't afford to stock a lot of Fuji gear.) But Englewood camera had it all, including multiple copies of every X-series lens. Knowing that the 35mm f/2 lens was sold out on the "big guy" internet stores, I scooped up my copy right then and there (not that I would buy from an internet retailer). So the moral of the story is that small camera stores, especially the independent stores, might just be the best places to pick up Fuji gear during this sale; it is worth a phone call inside your state or province. I have made it a point to always buy my camera gear from my local store, even though I could avoid sales taxes or save money if I bought from one of the big internet companies. Local matters, and I am happy to support my little store in Lubbock. (But this time I knew all of their 35mm f/2 lenses were on backorder at my local store.)
Not to bore anyone, but here is a post about my local camera store I wrote in my personal blog a couple of years ago. The title is Local vs. Online Shopping.

We have a real camera store in Lubbock, the only real camera store between Dallas, Texas and Albuquerque, New Mexico. This is not a Big Box store with inexperienced, rotating 20-somethings trying to sell cameras, computers and refrigerators to customers, it is a real store staffed by people who are expert photographers and who are devoted to photography and customer service; they want their customers to take great photos. I visit the store frequently and listen to the staff help walk-in people with camera problems, make honest recommendations on new equipment, and provide photographic advice. This is what is quaintly known these days as "full service" and it costs money to have experts on staff six days a week.

The store sells cameras, lenses and accessories for suggested retail price. The inventory is easily worth $250,000 just so that customers can buy what they need when they enter the store. My local store is in competition with online retailers and Big Box stores who, with lower prices and often no real inventory, offer no support or expertise and just sell cameras and lenses (and good luck if you have a problem with them). Why the price difference? The first factor is volume; it is cheaper to sell to thousands than it is to sell to tens. The second is service; local experts willing to help. The third is sales tax which is 8.25% here.

I do buy clothes online from retailers like LL Bean and Orvis because it is impossible to get quality cotton field clothes locally. However, I make every effort to buy local items from local merchants; if I can get it locally I buy it locally. The people in our small local stores provide excellent service at fair prices, and that is something I value. During my time at the local camera store I have seen people walk in and take an hour or more of the staff time to learn about the strengths and weaknesses of particular cameras, and then demand a discount equivalent to the price on some online store that provides no service and has no sales tax. You can imagine what I think about this behavior. (And how will my local store pay the man or woman who spent the hour answering your questions and providing you unbiased, honest advice?) The fact of the matter is that local is quality, local is service, and local is good for all of us. Buy local when you can, it matters.
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I would like to see a sub section called Transport (or similar) that could be a place for any transport related photos, cars, truck, rickshaws, planes, horse drawn buggies, bicycles and of course motorcycles. I don't know about others but I struggle with where to put these sort of pictures under the current section structure.
Does anybody have any thoughts on this?
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