Since I moved from a Canon T90 film camera to Nikon DSLRs my Canon 300TL flash has been sitting unused.
Would this flash which has a trigger voltage of 3.8V function with my X-100T?

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The other day, I found a background I liked on 4th Ave in Vancouver, and staked it out waiting for the right person to walk into frame. I prefocused on the spot I expected someone would appear, and used settings of 500 at f8, and auto ISO.
I thought this person was outstanding.
It was a dark, gloomy day and the camera selected a speed of 640 (even though I set the dial to 500) and an ISO of 3200, which worried me until I saw the results. I wouldn't have deliberately chosen such a high ISO, but clearly the XT-1 can handle it well.
I touched it up, including a bit of noise reduction in LR6.

Please check out my Flickr page at
John Jackson

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I'm interested in the Billingham Digital Hadley, but have a question. The kits I want to use it with are the following:

- X-T1 with XF23 with vented hood mounted, XF56, assorted small stuff in front pocket
- X-T1 with XF35 including hood mounted, XF90 (OR XF55-200), plus small stuff
- X-T1 with XF35 including hood mounted, XF18, small stuff (no issue I guess)

Will these kits fit? I think the biggest question is the 23+56 and 35+90. The X-T1 has an ArcaSwiss base, but I believe that shouldn't be a problem.

Please let me know if you use a Billingham Digital (not the Small, not the Pro, not the Large!!) with one of these kits and how this fits.
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I am using my X Pro more and more for my everyday and street camera, it gives really HQ results with the Fuji lenses and is so light and easy to carry.



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My X-T1's been shakey performance-wise as of late:

- Firing randomly without fully pressing the shutter release
- Not-autofocusing in AF mode (need to toggle the mode dial back and forth for it to reset)
- Dropping out of play/review mode and menu surfing randomly when using the d-pad.

Odd sh*t and pretty consistent, but not fully repeatable. I'm past warranty, so I'm afraid sending it in for them to troubleshoot could get spendy. Anyone having similar issues with theirs?

Of course there are also the issues of the peeling grip and the bent port door, but we all know and love those already...
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Last week I spent a few days in The Lake District (England) and amongst the photos I took were a few of the sunset on the evening of Tuesday 29th at Castlerigg Stone Circle near Keswick.
Here's one I particularly like:
[​IMG]castlerigg sunset 1 by Glyn Morton, on Flickr

Thanks for looking!
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Hi guys,

My current camera gear it's quite simple but it's covering all my needs so far: XT-1 + 18mm + 35mm. However the only lens which is attached most of the time to my camera it's the 18mm because it lets me take more photos in different situations, that's a 4x4 prime lens.

I like hiking and trekking, and the 18mm seems perfect for landscapes, even when I want to take a photo of someone with a great landscape behind. Also I like it for street and some portrait photography, definitely, the 18mm it's behaving well and doing its job.

Even so, I need a lens more polyvalent than the 18mm. It's not enough for me, I also would like to cover the needs for night and architectural photography. But I don't want to buy another lens, I just want to replace my 18mm for a new lens.

In this way I am looking for the perfect lens to cover the focal length between 12mm - 23mm. If it's impossible, then I would consider to buy another lens.

I'm thinking in the following alternatives to complete my current camera gear:

12mm (+ 18mm + 35mm)
14mm (+35mm)
16mm (+35mm)

What lens could replace my 18mm and cover my needs for landscape, night, architectural and street photography? maybe for portraits too?

Thanks you

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Fujifilm Instax Share Printer SP1

I just got this Printer and it's pretty cool...

Actually I like it a lot!

Anyone else have one and what do you think of it?

[​IMG]Photograph... by David Wong, on Flickr
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Yesterday I bought my X-100T and a spare Fuji battery. The camera battery had some charge so I charged up the spare whilst playing with the camera. I then swapped the batteries only to find that that the camera would not power up. I reverted to the original battery and still the camera would not power up.

Only then did I realise that I had inserted both batteries with the wrong rotation. I had noted that one corner was rounded and thought I saw a similar shape in the camera so popper it in. The red plastic retainer snapped forward and I locked the lid.

Has anyone got an idea why Fujifilm designed the camera to allow incorrect battery insertion?

Furthermore I note that when reversed the seating spring seems to contact one of the battery terminals!

I also use Nikon DSLRs and these bodies do not allow incorrect battery insertion.

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Been trying to use the combination of my X-Pro 1 and the XC50-230MM lens to get some action shots of my son's soccer matches. These were taken this past weekend with the body set to continuous focus mode. I seemed to get a good number of keepers...

12072744_1107045109307379_5722992561490212968_n.jpg 12088413_1107045135974043_5836733259740499899_n.jpg 12115586_1107045115974045_1294124581658446441_n.jpg
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"Sony plans to make the department responsible for the Walkman brand a separate subsidiary in October. This would likely be followed by the spin-off of the device division including image sensors in the future, according to Kazuo Hirai, [Sony] chief executive."

Hopefully no more restrictive usage agreements to keep other manufacturers from competing with Sony's flagship cameras.
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Six months ago I bought a x100t on ebay, couldn't stretch to the full price. It was hardly used but I discovered I was the third owner, it came with warranty from Wex Photographic with about 9 months left. Of course when I had a problem and spoke to Wex I discovered that the warranty was not transferrable which was what I suspected. They offered to repair it but said they would send it to Fuji so I thought I might as well send it directly to Fuji and if needs be, pay for the repair even though the camera should be technically under warranty. Anyway no correspondence just camera returned in 6 working days with a new top plate, nicely cleaned and free of charge. Great service and a great camera! (Except why did it break in the first place.....)
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I like and hate that lens at the same time quite a bit! Optically it performs great, leaving not much to be desired. Handling though is a nightmare! The 135mm focal length is certainly not for my hands. No matter how hard I try I cannot get a steady shot at speeds under than 1/125 sec. After a late afternoon walk in the city, I have been left with just a few shots sharp enough and a ton of shake plagued ones. Here are a couple of these with some vignetting added by me (J-11 has no vignetting at all):

Of old doors again...

Just staying...

Both of them where shot wide open (f/4). The second one at a shutter speed of 1/80 sec has been blurred by camera shake. Any tips for shooting hand held with such lenses are welcome. :)
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Last weekend we went for a little drive up to the Mt Hood area in Oregon. Absolutely beautiful weather for October. The drought effects are sad to see. Frog Lake is more like Tadpole Lake and the lack of snow on Mt Hood is something between disheartening and frightening.

View of Mt Hood over Frog Lake.

Mudflats have extended the shoreline deep into the lake bed.

From the Timberline Lodge area on Mt Hood, Mt Jefferson can be seen to the south.
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Are there any add on grips for the x100t that have an arca Swiss type l bracket built in? I have one for my x-t1, but can only find x100/s compatible versions online.
Can you guys point me in the right direction?
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Is there any way to use an android phone to start and stop interval shooting using the remote app? I've the remote app quite a bit for doing studio shots so I can hold a card and bounce light on my subject. I'm very new to interval; shooting and making time lapse video but being able to have a remote start would be great.
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I have owned my Fuji X100 since it came out; I love the camera. I have purchased the Lightcraft Fader ND filter (variable density)and the adapter ring and hood, for the camera a few years ago, but alas, have not gone out to try it out. I also have not tried out the in-camera option of the ND filter while shooting(is this for jpg only?).
Has anyone used this ND filter option with such things as waterfalls and clouds, and what has been your experiences and opinions? Can you give me some advice on where to use it other than waterfalls(I may not have access to a waterfall anytime soon) so I could actually try it out? I think I was distracted by family illness after I bought this filter and have not gotten back to it. I supposed it would be best on a tripod as all other shots. I guess that this use is not an application for HDR photography, which I also do with bracketing with my SLRs.
Thanks for any advice,
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From a Nikon F3 Daily user to you. When I first picked up the package in which my camera came in, I had felt that it was already going to be too light for my liking. When my fingers first touched the camera I felt that it was a bit too plasticky. Although a bit too light and not 'metallic' enough I swung the XE-1 for a while and switched back and forth between holding the Fuji and the Nikon, putting it up to my eye and putting it down again. My God does it feel wonderful. It's not too small and it's not huge, it's kind of perfect size. For me at least, I don't have huge hands. It's not the best built machine, and I'm sure if it clashed against my F3 inside my camera bag the Fuji would take some damage. But again I think I would wear this one around my neck at all times rather than have it stored away. It's funny I've already partly fell in love with this camera since I haven't even mounted a lens on( my Nikon adaptor is taking forever). But I think it's just the way this camera is designed and built. It dares you to shoot with it. It invites you to shoot freely. Without a 2-3 pound monster around your neck. Love it so far, stay tuned for sample images of the Fuji XE-1 and Nikon 50mm f2 AI lens.

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Switchers from Canon/Nikon to Fuji..why didn't you just buy a crop body from the same brand that you had.

Don't anyone take this the wrong way, as in trolling or anything, but i am just curious as to the reasons from the many people that have switched to fuji.

I have been real interested in the x-t1 and a few lens and was wondering what it was, (your opinions) that made you not go with a crop body from your previous brand.

Any and all information is appreciated.

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This is a mount on a Revuenon lens. It looks like a Minolta based on a comparison with some poor mount images online; would someone know what it is?

Secondly, it looks like a section of the flange (11 o'clock to 1) was milled away--the seller has offered to refund if non-functional, but I'd like an opinion before I buy. TIA,


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XF 50-140
Ouwehands Zoo Netherlands
(The last picture for today)

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XF 50-140
Ouwehands Zoo Netherlands
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A photo of my son exploring the rock pools at a sunny Hunstanton in Norfolk, UK.
This was taken with the 18-135 on an XT-1 at 18mm / f7.1.

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Hi all,

I read somewhere that Apple's "Photos" app was significantly better with the El Capitan update. So I impulse-upgraded without making a full backup of my 193 GB photos library (which is on a two-disk-mirrored NAS), because, after all, it was just an upgrade, right?
Boy, was I wrong: When I started the Photos app after the upgrade, I was very surprised that my photos library needed to be updated again, just as it had to when I made the jump from iPhotos a few months ago.
Well, it has been upgrading for more than 20 hours now, stuck at 18 % progress for the last 17or so hours ...
Have you experienced the same? Did it finally make it to 100%?
Please say YES!
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XF 50-140
Ouwehands Zoo Netherlands
There are many more photos. It was a great day.

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Arrived today. I wanted a prime lens to go along with my 18-55mm lens and after reading reviews of most of the Fujinon lenses I chose this because I like night skies and sunsets, landscape and family photos with out the more intimidating larger lens.
So I took some photos of the kids watching TV (chucking it down with rain).
So what do I think of it.
Wow, amazing, I thought my 18-55 was the bees knees but this incredibly sharp, and the bokeh really offsets the subject with an almost 3D look.
I am not a professional photographer, but it's not hard to see at a glance the quality of the image and it is so easy to use, I can't wait to get it outdoors or taking shots of the northern lights.
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Local reservoir


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I got Adobe CC last week and noticed a lower battery runtime of my MacBook Pro even when I wasn't using Adobe apps (they weren't running).

Looked into that a bit more and it is the "Adobe CEF Helper" that puts the little icon in the menu bar where you also get updates through. It uses a constant 5% CPU power, used or not used doesn't matter. It's a REALLY shitty designed app.

You can quit it manually, but it will be started if you look for updates through the app. So, if you notice a battery drain on your laptop that you can't really explain, take a look at that one.

Screen Shot 2015-10-05 at 11.53.22.png
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Is it possible to set a custom white balance using a gray card with the X-T1? I am going to be shooting some (jpg) photos in a well-lit gymnasium this evening, and would like to get a good starting point with my gray card.

This was fairly straightforward with my 5DII's, but I can't seem to figure it out with my X-T1.

Thanks for any advice!
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... using the XF90mm for landscape. Images are sooc. The first one was just cropped and straightened a bit.
The second one shows, that this lens also produces nice smooth, less sharp images due to the haziness on that late afternoon.

[​IMG]Hike to Wildegg by Bruno, on Flickr

[​IMG]Hike to Wildegg by Bruno, on Flickr
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Trying out the Fuji 16-55/2.8 lens on my X-T1. I have been very impressed with this lens.

Google A_DSF3951-.jpg
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Starting a thread for Adapted 85mm lenses - All are invited to post their pictures taken with manual lenses from 75mm - 90mm actual focal length (not FOV) :)

So I finally got a chance to take a some of quick (test) shots with a couple of recently acquired 85mm vintage MF lenses. Here are the pictures. These are straight out of the camera Jpegs, transferred to android phone via wireless app and uploaded - no retouching whatsoever. What do you guys think? I am super happy with both these lenses.

Konica Hexanon 85mm 1.8 (EE High Gloss version)
Canon FL 85mm 1.8 (aperture ring on front of lens version) This lens was a surprise as its relatively inexpensive and always perceived as an underdog to the FD version.

Camera was set to Auto WB in Classic Chrome. Please click on the images and view them in larger resolution to check sharpness etc

Konica Hexanon @ 1.8 (bounced flash)
[​IMG]2015_1004_19560100_KH85 1_8 by Sanjay Nayar, on Flickr

Canon FL 85mm @ 1.8 (bounced flash)
[​IMG]2015_1004_19582000_CFL85_1-8 by Sanjay Nayar, on Flickr

Konica Hexanon 85mm @ 2.8 (bounced flash)
[​IMG]2015_1003_20245200_KH85_2-8 by Sanjay Nayar, on Flickr

Canon FL 85mm @ 2.8 (bounced flash)
[​IMG]2015_1003_20221400_CFL85_2-8 by Sanjay Nayar, on Flickr

I noticed that the WB is slightly different in the KH/C pictures and that either KH is less than 85 or C is slightly more (like 87-90) but that is yet to be determined as these were shot hand held.
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Shot in the same village as were I found the blacksmith workshop...
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Went to shoot in a tiny village in the north eastern part of The Netherlands and came across an old blacksmith workshop; it wasn't in operation but the interior was "interesting" to say the least...

DSCF1211k.jpg DSCF1212k.jpg DSCF1214k.jpg
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I have just taken a look at my London shots which were taken in September just gone. I know it sounds like I'm getting lazy in my old age and that's because I am, Seriously though, I'm still working on those I took earlier in the year. Anyway, I thought I would leave this one as a colour shot - not something I do all the time.

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I've been extremely happy with the 55-200; very, very sharp from wide open across the focal range and with no signs of the dreadful water-color effect.
I wasn't very fortunate with the 18-55, so I traded it for a 35.
For my surprise, EVERY shot I've taken with the 35 shows it, from wide open to 5.6... I've tried different sharpening settings in LR (from the ones used for the 55-200), and the only result is less of the water-color effect, but also a lack in sharpness.
What do you think? Is it a lens problem (soft or any other issue), or it's just the way the 35 renders?
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