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Here are a few images from an evening walk around Little Italy in San Diego, California right after I got my X100F. All shot as JPG, either Astia or Acros. All are pretty much right out of the camera.

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I'll put more in the next post.
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I took a walk around Balboa Park (San Diego, CA) on Sunday late afternoon / early evening, and shot with just the new XF 50 f/2.0 on the X-T2. Here are few, all shot as Astia JPG, and some tweaked a bit in Aperture.

This lady was doing a handstand on a rather thin wrought-iron railing, while a photographer was shooting from the other side. She was likely lit beautifully by the low sunlight, but I wonder if he even thought of shooting her silhouetted against the sun. This one is cropped a bit, as I did not want to get too close and spoil his shot.

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More in the next post so as not to clog up the What's New front page.
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During the last three years there has been much harvesting of forest here at home. It is sad that money will spoil the natural beauty around me. Today I passed a place that recently harvested and get to see a nice stream flowing. I found a parking lot and started walking toward the creek. Once I see how nice the stream is and wonder how nice it would have been if the forest continued to surround the stream.

Although much forest is gone, I think that the creek was fine enough to shoot. You just have to find the right angle.

X-T10 with 16-50 OIS II + ND 1000 filter.
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An 8-shot focus stacked macro of an old shed from one of our snakes.

Fuji X-T1
Minolta Rokkor-X 50mm f3.5 Macro
ISO200 1/180 f11
RAW images processed in Capture One
Stacking and finishing in Photoshop

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I am so excited shooting with the XPro1 now.. :D

feels like much easier to create filmic or cinematic photos with the XPro1.

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Hey everyone, I tried to search for this but couldn't find anything. Im sure its a setting I have wrong but I am lost!

Sometimes, when in either AF-C or AF-S mode (and single point selected, I havent noticed it in any other focus mode yet), the green Autofocus box suddenly gets larger and starts to move around all on its own. It happens for a few seconds and then stops and goes back to normal. Im just not sure whats causing that?
I have had the grip attached when this happens. I dont recall it happening before using the grip.

Any insight to what is happening is greatly appreciated!
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Possibly stupid questions but as a long term Apple girl, with a future that sees me using my X-T1 and editing photos via Windows for work purposes, I'm pondering the best way of doing things.

What software do you use on Windows for editing photos taken with your XT-1 if you don't have Lightroom or Capture 1?

How do you transfer your images from camera to computer - cable, SD card port?
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I am using my Fuji XP1 and a Nissin i60 flashgun. Camera is set at x-sync 180. There is a noticeable delay between the shutter opening and the flash firing. When I say noticeable delay we are probably dealing with milliseconds. This means that the images are always taken 'late' and the correct facial expressions are lost. I am suffering from lag somewhere. Shutter lag? Flash lag? EVF lag.
Any ideas to cause and possible solutions. Would a Fuji flashgun help?
Sorry to hit you with all these options.
Many thanks for your help in advance.

Pete
Again at Bristol Zoo this weekend, X-Pro 2 and 50-230mm.

[​IMG]Little egret by Andy Mulhearn, on Flickr

While the light wasn't spectacular, the details around the birds eye are quite impressive. Well to me anyway...
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I finally received my copy of the body and 63mm from BH yesterday morning. As always though, life gets in the way of me playing with my new toys. Haven't had a chance to really get out and shoot and have just done the usual dumb snap shooting around the office when I have a minute here and there. Definitely nothing substantial enough to give me any real impressions on the potential IQ of this thing yet.

Notable initial thoughts/feelings/findings:

1. Body and lens remind me of carrying a 5d3 with 50L attached with regard to size and weight. Not sure how close they actually are in those regards on paper but that's what it reminds me of in hand. The 63 is bigger than I was anticipating. Grip on the body is comfortable and holding the entire rig feels good (to me).
2. AF is faster than I anticipated in decent to good light. Pretty poor when in lower light but still usable in most situations where one would even want to try and capture an image.
3. The EVF tilt adapter is heavier than I was expecting. Not sure that I like the way the entire rig feels with it installed. Functionally, the ability to articulate it in multiple directions feels great and comfortable to use. Time will tell whether it's worth having installed on a regular basis for my uses.
4. Touchscreen is nice but it hasn't completely sunken in that I have one there so I forget to use it. lol.
5. General operation definitely reminds me of the other X series bodies except there are additional controls and features to stumble upon. Fuji has done a good job of injecting the existing DNA into the body.
6. EVF IQ looks great albeit much laggier than the XP2.
7. IQ with the crap shots that I've taken so far seems about on par with the A7R2 which is kind of what I expected. Will have a play with the raw files after I get some decent ones to see how well they stack up with regard to latitude/malleability. As stated at the beginning though, I haven't given this thing a proper opportunity to perform yet so the verdict won't be in for a bit in the IQ department.

Side note, already experienced what appears to be a potential firmware/hardware issue where the body insisted on given me a half second image review display after every shot regardless of my settings. It is off by default which is where I left it. However, the post shot image display persisted. I was able to fix it by going through the menu and doing a reset. This happened twice yesterday and hasn't since. Hoping it was just a quick bug that doesn't show up again.[​IMG]
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Maggie loves to pose. XP2 35mm wr

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The XT2 is amazing. So is the 35 f2. Shooting jpegs A with Y filter. The wall art shot was taken across the room and cropped. about 50ft away.

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First time out with my new XT2. Trying to break away from my 10-24 and use fixed lens. 35 f2 and shooting jpeg A with yellow filter. High key as light floods through the windows...

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DP2M

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We have had such a long winter on Vancouver Island, I have tried to brighten it up with some Daffodils.
I have blown out the white curtains and like the simplicity of the shot. Hope you like it.
Thanks for looking.
Daffs Mar 27 2017 f.jpg
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hi
i using fuji xt1 started from dec 2016 until now and never disappoint me
as long from december, i has been change firmware twice, first to 5.01 and second to 5.10
in 5.01, everything normal and fast but in 5.10 i feel some like bug thing
by the way, i use 2 lens : manual with takumar 55/1,8 and auto with xf18-135
in march 2nd week, i upgrade to 5.10 and bring xt1 with takumar to some indoor party and i shoot some moment without check the result. after go home, i check the result and voila, almost photo look shaky
i think maybe because the light was too low so i don't mind
in the next day, i join to another meeting and bring xt1 with 18135 and usually i take some shot without live check. after that, i check some photo and there are missfocus picture overthere
and today, the xt1 become freeze and make me remove the battery to turn off
all setting i make auto and i try to reset all settin but still freeze

any suggestion?
i try to rollback to 5.01 but system denied

thankyou
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I'm off on a week-long road trip with the general destination of covering an airshow for the magazine I represent. To this end I will be using my tried and trusted Nikon D810 with 200-500mm for the flying shots.

For everything else I will use my new Fuji X-T2.

Now my question is : WHAT LENSES ? I want to minimise clutter, minimise lens changing while out and about and minimalise weight.

I have :

* 10-24mm
* 16mm
* 18-55mm
* 90mm
* 55-200

I'll be using the Fuji for statics and close enough subjects at the airshow, in the hangars and at the event in general. Furthermore I will be using the Fuji for the elongated road trip (I'll be covering 1,700km in 8 days)

I'm thinking 10-24 / 18-55 and 55-200. Leave the two primes at home. Comments, thoughts, advice?
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I took this a little while ago with my new X-T2 at a car club event. Opinion was divided. Many canned the wire wheels and others doubted the 'authenticity' of the is rare conversion that was Mercedes-Benz endorsed.

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I like this picture because it looks a little like painted.

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After waiting what seemed like years, I got my X100F today. DOA. No image on the LCD, no image in the viewfinder. All I could see was normal exposure data, etc.

Called Fuji support and they stepped me through resetting the camera defaults, still nothing. They confirmed the camera was defective.

Returning it tomorrow -- managed to get one of ten that Rand's camera in NJ had. They have sold out no so exchange available.

Back to the bottom of the list. Woe is me...
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X100, f/8, 1/450s, ISO 200. Somewhere in Kansas.
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Lens advice please!

All of the photography I do is outdoor adventure stuff. Basically when I go on climbing trips I am capturing images in a pretty tough environment. Size, weight, and weather sealing are all critical for me (which is why I have fallen in love with the Fuji system compared to my old Nikon kit that most often got left behind due to weight and bulk)

I currently use the XT-1 with 35f2. I also have the 18-55 and honestly this would be the perfect lens for me if it was weather sealed. The 35 f2 for me is awesome - it is small, light, tough, just an excellent lens, except....I am definitely a wide angle guy. My favorite and most used lens on my Nikon was a 10-24. Again, the sort of shots I am usually trying for involve being tied to a belay on a ledge a few hundred feet up a cliff, and trying to get my subject AND the amazing landscape in the background.

So the 50mm equivalent just isn't cutting it. My dilemma and question is...23mm or 16mm?? Since weather sealing is a must I think these are the only wide options at the moment.

1. $$ is a secondary factor. The 16mm is within my price range, but that said I do feel better about abusing a $400 lens than a $900 one. I also can't swing just getting both...I'd rather have that extra cash to actually go on a trip to use the lens :)

2. The 16mm is wider and faster, and for me is pretty much the perfect focal length, BUT it is also much bigger and heavier and I feel is too bulky for certain trips

3. The 23mm is wide enough for many of the shots I like to do...but I would definitely have times when I'd be wishing for that extra field of view. That said...it is probably a more versatile focal length. That leads me to my last point

4. When I'm climbing I'm not going to be carrying multiple lenses and switching. Aside from the extra weight and bulk...I'm just not gonna risk dropping gear by swapping, and in my experience any gear that isn't clipped to something will be dropped sooner or later. So, if you could only take one lens up a wall with you, which would it be?
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While her boyfriend did a wardrobe change during a recent photo session, I asked his girlfriend Jaylene to stand in while I did a lighting test. X-T1, ISO 200 1/180 second, 56mm lens, f1.4
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Some double exposures of the laker Kaye E Barker as she turns to leave a foggy Lake Huron and enter the St Claire river. It is her first run of the 2017 shipping season.

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XT2 and XF55-200mm and an extra dense ND filter set-up today balancing one foot on a rock and the other on a treacherous log in a rushing stream with the EVF tilted out sideways on a tripod standing in about 12" of water at arms length at an extremely overcrowded SpringBreak zoo of a State Park...

... and yet :cool:.

Thanks for looking,
Ed
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I finally got up the courage and energy to attack slides made between 1977-2001. I recommend large dose of Thorazine for this kind of project while diving into the analogue world. Anyway I ended up with about 750 slides to have scanned. It was definitely a trip down memory lane watching my daughter go from birth to past her teen years. Photographs and memories. I tossed quite a few to the floor, kept a lot of them in their sleeves and prepared the rest for scanning. I'm trying Scancafe. I have no affiliation with them.

Here's my floor:
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and here's me after eight hours on a light box:
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Hello All,

past weekend there was the short track competition European Cup Final in Hasselt
here are a few photographs from that day, with the Fuji XT2 and the XF 50 140 f 2.8


iso 3200
f 2.8 or 4



Greetings Jakke

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FXT27518 v2 FF.jpg

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FXT27758 v2 FF.jpg
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Hi guys!
Sunday will be a Marathon in in Rome and I want to take some pictures of the runners in action
I own a x-t20 and the 56mm 1.2 lens +23 1.4 lenses.
I would like to know the settings of continuous focus and If I have to use single point or zone.
Any suggestion is appreciated. Sorry for my bad english.
Dario
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I don't remember seeing this discussed, if it has please bear with me. I want to do some long exposure timelapse, probably around 30 seconds each exposure and probably an exposure every minute. What I don't want to do is burn out the mechanical shutter on my T1. Is anyone using the electronic shutter for timelapse, and how is it working? I may want to try a sunset or two as well, those will of course be a shorter shutter duration and less time between each frame.
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I turned to Fuji after being a long time (15+ years) Pentax user, and never looked back, after savouring
the results from my XE2, and now XT1.
I originally was tempted by the Micro 4/3 system, but changed my mind thinking the smaller sensors
would most likely not be as good as the APS C on the Fuji, and so so bought the Fuji XE2.
The only fly in the ointment was the high price tag of the lenses,its hard to justify paying almost the same price
for a lens, as what i payed for the camera.
While in my local photography store I purchased a used Panasonic GX7 with 14-42mm kit lens,
to be used for video purposes, as the video from my XT1 is not the best, and i know Panasonic
do really good video, and i was right, the video from this little camera blows my beloved XT1
away as far as video goes. But wait, whats this.......the actual photo side of this GX7 is FANTASTIC too,
my original concerns about the smaller sensor not being as good as the APS C has been smacked
in the face by a huge wet fish, the image quality from this super cheap kit lens is really good,
so i then went back to the store and purchased the 25mm f1.7, new, for the ridiculously low price of £159
and the results where even better.
If like me, your are put off buying into the Micro 4/3 systems because of the smaller sensor,
think again. I would never sell my Fuji XT1, i love it too much, but my Panasonic GX7 has never been
away from my side, since i bought it.
Heres a few test shots i done with the 25mm f1.7

Daisy1.jpg

Screw1.jpg

Fisherman1.jpg

Railing1.jpg
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Ok on my X100F I keep a Hoya multicoated uv filter and a lens hood. When using the tele converter I remove the lens shade but do I need to remove the filter? I cant seem to find anything about this....Any info?

Thanks,

Lance
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I had some colour distortion problems with my last post. Hopefully this one will go okay. Fuji Xt-1, ISO 200, 26mm, f/16, 0.5 sec
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Hey guys,
I'm a new x-t1 owner and my extremely amateur photography lust, that has been dormant for a decade, has recently resurrected.
My x-t1 has been set for the eye sensor option. Last night I noticed that when the camera is set down, the display screen is staying on for the full 2 minutes before shutting off. If it is tilted backwards to about a 45 degree angle, the screen goes black, but when it is set back up, it comes on. Before last night, I don't remember the screen staying on so long. The camera itself seems to be getting pretty warm. I thought that, prior to last night, the screen was going black when I was setting the camera down.
Last night I had started reading thru the book "The Fujifilm X-T1 111 X-pert Tips" & changed a couple things, but I don't think I changed anything that would have affected the display in this way.
Has anybody had issues like this and/or knows how to fix it? Or is this the way the display works?
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I have been setting up back-button focus but, when I'm in manual focus two screens appear on the lcd ?? Why does that happen and can I just make one screen, since one is too small.
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Hi Guys,
I'm new here.
Quick intro: about 6 years ago I've moved from Nikon to Olympus. Initially only for the second body, getting a PEN E-PL5, which has been my best friend for a while, especially for the pics of my honeymoon.
I've then fallen in love with m43 and sold all my gear to get a EM1.
Now I'm shooting with those 2 bodies and a bunch of very nice lenses:
12 f2, 25 1.8, 45 1.8, 60 2.8 macro, 14-150 II, 12-40 2.8 and 70-300.
I've to honestly admit that I've never been really disappointed by it, actually the opposite.
I've always proudly defended the smaller sensor and always thought I didn't need it larger.
Only, recently 2 major things have happened:
1) a friend let me use his Leica M9 for a week
2) I've been disappointed by the recent releases by Olympus (Pro heavy lenses, expensive EM1 II and in general I'm having some concerns about the future of m43)

To make a long story short.
I can't stop thinking of getting rid of the E-PL5 (and maybe also of the 25 1.8) to get a X-T20.
I love the design, I love the idea of finally trying the Fuji colors, film simulation and overall its famous jpgs. But more importantly after having tried the Leica I now for the first time in years want a bigger sensor (for different reasons).

Questions:
1) I'll be travelling to Hong Kong in 2 weeks. Do you know if the X-T20 has been released there yet? I've googled but can't find an answer. Also, despite some comments I think that I may actually save a couple hundreds dollars purchasing there, but I value your input. Warranty isn't such a big factor for me.
2) Do you think I'll manage the 2 bodies of 2 different brands? I was thinking to get either the 23 f2 or the 35 f2 or the 27 2.8 pancake to complement the Fuji. I can't afford to purchase 2 lenses at the moment, so no kit lens. Also, I don't want to generate confusion with the Oly. I can go for a prime (maybe the more versatile 23 f2) and then see what happens later on
3) since some of this is to get also some smoother bokeh should I instead go for the longer focal length and maybe get the 35 f2 (or even think at the 1.4)? Otherwise will I notice the difference with the Oly lenses? On the other hand I would like the Fuji setup to be as portable as possible since it substitutes my PEN.
4) my (expensive) alternative is forget about all of the above and get a PEN-F. I like the design, but still can't stop thinking at it being overpriced and everytime I end up keeping my older PEN

Cheers
Davide
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Trying to use camera in the studio with lights. At the setup that I want to use I can not see the scenes through view finder or rear screen. What setting do I need to change? Thanks
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