I just acquired a Nikkor HC 50/2 and am pretty impressed by it. I started looking at some of the older Nikkor lenses and was thinking about picking up either the Nikkor N 24/2.8 or the Nikkor-O 35/2. I like the build of the older non AI style of lens (although I do have a 28/2 AiS) and both of the lenses above have close focusing so I thought they might be a nice fit for the way I like to work. Both can be found pretty reasonably (just a bit over $100 in nice shape) but I don't see many folks using these older Nikkors on Fuji X bodies and I was wondering if anyone here had any thoughts about them.
We had one of the "Tough Mudder" events in the park at the weekend, 14,000 entrants for it and most for charitable support.
The idea was to complete a run with obstacles to negotiate and rather than a race it was to remain as a team and complete together, some very wet and muddy obstacles.
I managed to get up there for a couple of hours with the XPro2+16-55 and grabbed some images that I am happy with - would have liked more time so next time will plan for the day!
I dropped my X70 on cement while I was walking in to work this morning. The damage was to the right side of the camera. Near the exposure compensation dial. The silver piece has more of a gap now, and there are some indents in the plastic of it. The indents don't bother me, but the gaps seem like they may become an issue in the future.
Has this happened to anyone? Could dust find a way in to the camera through the gap now? Am I overthinking it and shouldn't worry about it? I contacted Fuji Canada to see what it would cost to fix the gap.
Yesterday we noticed the Monarch Butterfly Caterpillars are starting to hatch in the garden.
I don't know which end is the head or the tail.....
Meanwhile the milkweed bugs are having their feast on the pods.
Both shots taken with Nikon 80 - 200 f/2.8 zoom at 200mm, f/11.
MCEX11 extension ring and Metabones adapter.
X-T1 on a tripod.
Care taken to get the color balance right.
Silly question but I was just curious if anyone has found a successful way of attaching the WCL (or TCL) to the X100/s/t using the bayonet mount that the filter and hood adaptor provides. If so, how does the change in length render it unusable? I would consider adding the WCL to my kit if it weren't for the threaded connection.
Here is a Milky Way shot from a somewhat light polluted site here in southern California. This was taken with a X-T1, 12mm Rokinon at f3.5 and is 49 exposures of 160seconds each at ISO1600. So that is a total of around 130 minutes. I was testing a new tracking mount, actually comparing several mount. This was taken on a Skywatcher Star Adventurer.
Milkyway_XT1-12-49x160 by Alan Smallbone, on Flickr
This was stacked and processed in an astronomy program called Pixinsight. It is very specialized, extremely high learning curve, not user friendly and hardly any documentation. It is however very sophisticated for image processing. It has some very specialized procedures for removing things like gradients caused by the light pollution. Here is the first and last frame of the sequence, basically the out of camera preview thumbnail to show you the extent of the light pollution gradients. When stretched they cover most of the image. Many frames had aircraft going through them and other undesirables.
MW-start-end by Alan Smallbone, on Flickr
If you have any questions feel free to ask away. This was quite a few hours of processing time.
It was on my must buy list, and finally bought it 2 weeks ago. Waited for one week to test it on a road trip to Grand canyon, but something went wrong. I used to use primes on my x-t1 and used to have 24-105 on my canon 6d and was very happy about image quality, but with this lens something is weird. For the first i dismounted to clean both back and front glass, and saw something like one of elements inside of lens are like rolling (i can see it through back glass when tilting a bit) didn't think was a huge problem. Then when started taking pictures caught myself not enjoying "tack sharp" lens quality. Some weird feelings about this lens. Maybe you could say if this is my imagination or it's really not sharp and might be the problem of focus system init. Thank you for answers !!!
back when I first got into doing creative artistic things to my images for fine art America, I bought a very simple software. It has two sliders and was simple to use. I think possibly I paid around $90 for it, but can't swear to it. When I changed from PC to Mac, it wasn't compatible and I'd bought other software.
I've stayed on the mailing list, though, and recently got an email that it was going to be withdrawn with no support Sept. 1st.
It is being sold for $6.00 right now. It's available for PC or Mac. It is a stand-alone, at least it is for my Mac, but I bought it again.
This isn't a fancy software, but offhand, I know I've sold at least one image developed with it.
The effect I use is the bottom slider of the two, which renders a soft, blurry rendition something like an impressionistic painting.
Even if you're not into selling, maybe one for your wall?
Can't beat 6 bucks. I've already done two, and really like the effect.
I've had a busy couple of weeks with my motion design business. No time for fun. Finally had a chance to get out today for a quick photo walk. My "baby", the Zeiss Contax 100mm f/2 C/Y, has been a bit neglected lately, so I decided it needed a little TLC.
All shot in and around DUMBO, Brooklyn, and Brooklyn Bridge Park.
All Sony A7ii + Contax 100mm f/2, and all wide open at f/2.
Water St. Shadows
Water St. Light Fixture
Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass (DUMBO)
Pier 2 Courts
When I attach the samsung 8 mm fish eye lens to my xpro2, the camera appears to recognize it but nothing happens when I depress the shutter. Is there some other setting I need to change?
white lantern by kevin dixey, on Flickr
cara by kevin dixey, on Flickr
I just picked up an old Nikkor HC 50/2 (circa 1972). The focus action is a bit lighter than I like (compared to my Minolta or Pentax lenses) but it's almost identical to the focus action on my 28/2 AiS so maybe it's just a Nikon thing. It's small, really well made and works well on the X-P1. I need to spend spend more time with it but so far I like it.
The 3D look it gave me on the mask is especially nice.
I guess I'll never learn. I bought a cheap adapter from China on eBay. I put it on my Minolta MD Rokker-X lens and now I can't get it off. I'm pushing in the small pin and it does twist, but it does not come off.
On top of that, when it's 'locked' into place with the lens, there is a lot of movement. Unless I push the lens towards my face when I'm taking a picture, the quality is terrible. If I didn't have this issue, I'd probably be ok with having them stuck together.
Any ideas on how to get these separated so I can throw it in trash? Then I'll start looking for a better quality adapter.
Thanks in advance.
Hi, just received the x70. I'm pretty sure the flash sync speed can go beyond 1/500 even up to 1/2000. However, I'm not getting the flash exposure beyond 1/500.
Setup: flashq triggers, nissin i40 flash on manual.
According to their website. Amazon as well
I purchased Rico Pfirstinger's book on using the X-T1.
I note he said you must switch the power management to ON at all times, but there is no explanation as to why.
Now I have tried this and
A/ the battery goes down in no time, probably 5 times quicker
B/ I do not see any positive advantages
I wonder if the advantages are in quicker focus, something that is really not so important for me?
I live in a little town of 300 people or so nestled between a ski resort and a world class salmon fishing river on the west coast of Newfoundland in Canada. We've owned a small boat for several years and decided that we'd take up salmon fishing this summer and it's been a blast!
When i go out fishing i usually take the pre-production X-T2 with a 10-24, 18-135 and a 100-400 but this evening decided that the Rokinon fisheye should come along too. It was a great decision as that thing can provide a field of view like no other!
I got my XP2 only 4 days ago, but had been shooting the XT1 for 2yrs.
I noticed the my XP2 images have black noise pixels. I find it quite ugly, the way face lines go to waxy and blotchy. I am shooting raw.
Also in camera Raw to JPG conversion produced grossly noise reduced waxy results even when NR is set to minimum.
No doubt I need to experiment more, and run comparisons to my other Fuji bodies, but I am not impressed. Wonder if anyone else have noticed what I am describing?
Long time I did something in B&W.
Some shots of Ostend-Belgium
Lens: 18-55 f2.8-4
Filter ND 1000
I didn't see a general thread for people to list what they have now and will be buying next, so thought I would kick one off.
Currently I have:
Next purchases will be, in planned order:
- Fuji 16mm 1.4
- Fuji 35mmf2
- 18-55mm (as part of an X-T2 'kit')
- 23mm f2 (to complement the excellent 35mm f2)
- 50-140mm (seems like a very quick and versatile lens)
- 100-400mm (for Safari next year)
I will also likely pick up the x1.4TC as part of a deal with one of the lenses as the effect on the IQ seems negligible, and it will be very useful for wildlife.
I think that combined with my 16mm f1.4 and my 35mm f2 that this set of lenses will basically give me a very strong and capable selection for just about every scenario i can think of. The only other lens I could forsee being interested in is a wide-angle zoom f2.8 with WR and OIS.
It's going to be a damn expensive few months leading up to Christmas...
Hi all, I am new to the fuji world and i hope you can help me
I have recently purchased a X-T10 and I already own a 5DS with the transmitter YN-E3-RT and 3 YN600EX-RT. I am trying to use the flashes with the X-T10. On the net it seems that they YN transmitter is not working on fuji and the YN 600 flashes. I am using the flash in c mode to control the flashes but I loose the control over the flash power.
Do you know which transmitter/receiver should I buy to get the YN600 work with the x-T10 and be able to adjust power settings? I am pretty sure that pocketwizard or cactus system work very well on fuji, but I am not sure for the flashes...
Thabnks a lot for any help
I live about an hour away from the museum submarine USS Albacore. The brainchild of the great Charles "Swede" Momsen, the Albacore was the proof-of-concept for the evolution from WWII Fleet Subs to the modern streamlined designs found all over the world today. She then served for twenty years as the test-bed for nearly every new idea that BuShips wanted to put into the submarine fleet.
I love shooting in historic ships and submarines because it's a difficult environment full of incredibly interesting shapes. I've used a vast array of lenses in the Albacore, but I think the Rokinon 12mm is my favorite.
^ the officers' head, downright roomy compared to the enlisted men's
^ part of the hydraulic system, located in the aft-most compartment by aux-steering
^ A detail of the starboard engine. On the left is one of the large intakes (if I recall) and the white vertical strut on the right hand side of the image is an engine brace.
Photographed this morning while it was resting near the top of a tall pine tree, at Sechelt, British Columbia. As there are only 4-5,000 of this graceful species left, they are protected by legislation, but their population continues to decline with urban growth and habitat destruction.
Photographed hand held with my X-T1 and 100-400 mm lens + 1.4 teleconverter, f. 14 at 1/320, ISO 400. RAW file processed in ACR and Photoshop.