I saw this advertised and looked at the specs as listed in this DPReview. Size etc it reminds me of my X-M1 which I would still prefer to this newer camera.
I bought a shiny new X-T2 last week and have been very happy with it. However, today I bought the official base plate to give it a better grip and a bit more 'heft' and I noticed it strange when it refused to screw into the tripod socket. After close inspection I noticed that the socket had no thread, it was completely smooth!
Has anyone had any similar experiences? Should there be a thread there?
It seems it will have to go back. Under normal circumstances it should be a straight swap but here in Russia the after-sales service procedure is Byzantine to say the least. I could be without it for a long time.
I just purchased a Vello Shutterboss RC-C1II intervalometer (wired version) to use with my Xt1. When I plug in the jack I am able to fully program the device and when I push the Timer/Start/Stop button the camera is engaged and everything works fine. But when I push the big Hold button as a simple shutter release nothing happens or at least the camera doesn't engage (I also own the plain Vello shutter release and it works just fine with my Xt1.) Has anyone else had this problem? Is it a faulty device, something that I need to adjust in my camera or is this a level of incompatibility between the Shutterboss and the Xt1? Feedback or suggestions would be most appreciated.
I was covering an all day event over the weekend doing multiple portraits, trying to get the most out of my batteries. Unlike my X-T1 which was permanently left in High Performance mode, I switched my X-T2 from Boost Mode to Standard and noticed the display on the back would get stuck, then try to catch up, jump around until I stopped moving, then it would show a proper up to date live preview. Almost like the frame rate was too slow to keep up with my movements, even though they were very subtle movements. It's sort of like trying to stream video on a super slow connection. I was distracted in front of subjects since I didn't know what was happening, so it did bother me a little bit at first. Once I pressed the shutter button half way down, the screen would usually catch up. It's not a huge issue and seems to only happen in Standard Mode on the LCD (EVF is fine), but I wanted to see if this was normal for all X-T2 cameras. I have another portrait session tonight so I'll try to get a short video of what's going on.
Has any one compared the two lenses purely from technical or bench mark performance wise? (I understand the limitations of manual focus only with the Nikon) I do not need a "fast" focusing etc., and debating whether to get the 55 with the rebate or wait and see 50/F2 in a few months. Appreciate your thoughts
X-T2 18-55mm Acros JPEG
One of the reasons I was interested in the X-T2 was Acros. I am not disappointed. Unlike some others I like shooting this simulation in camera. In general I am much more impressed with the output JPEGs sims in the X-T2 than I am in the older series but will likely continue to shoot RAW with the exception of Acros.
Ohio River Shore - Gallipolis by David, on Flickr
I still wait for my Fuji XT-2, however, as of next week, the wait will be over!
I have moved across from Canon as some of you know, and I have now the Fuji 35mm f2, the Fuji 16-55 f2.8, the Fuji 90mm f2 and the Samyang 12mm f2.
I do all kinds of shooting, mostly landscape and street and travel and some astrophotography, I will also be doing some promo shoots including portraits for a musician.
I have heard so much about the greatness of Fuji's primes, but felt safer buying the 16-55, what do you suggest?
Is the 35mm f1.4 better than the f2? The Fuji 56mm 1.2 + Fuji 16mm f1.4 better than the 16-55, the 56mm better than the 90mm?
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
LCD monitor not displaying image on playback. Support tech for Fuji couldn't determine the cause so had me reset the camera which corrected the problem. Also at times there's a rapid slight flash on the LCD or in the view finder when pressing the shutter button before taking a photo. Anyone else having experienced this issues?
Just in case no one has seen it...
I have an X-T2 and cannot get the AE-L setting to work. AF-L works fine. When I press the AF-L button, it locks focus as it should and indicates it is locked on the screen. However, when I press the AE-L button, nothing happens. I have it set-up for the button to be AE-L. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Not sure which category I'd put this under. But late night skating San Francisco. I love how supportive the community can be. People just coming and interested in the outcome. Really late so hard to shoot it for a rookie like me, but still a very great moment nonetheless. All criticism welcomed as well. Getting really interested in shooting portraits as of lately so will give that a shot.
Shot with Fuji xpro 1
nikkor S 55mm f1.2 shot at f4
Has anyone been successful in threading the newest verion of the Peak anchors (rated at 200#) directly through the neck strap lug? The older type (rated at 75#) can be easily thread though, but the newer version appears a little bit thicker. I haven't had any luck in getting the newest anchor thru the lug. I would like to avoid using a split ring and then attaching the anchor to it.
I'm traveling in California and Oregon with my new X T-2. Everything seemed to be working great until yesterday. I took a series of photos in the afternoon sun and there were white spots all over the photos. They were visible on my iPad on straight out of the camera jpegs. In 13 years of using digital cameras, Canon, Nikon, iPhone, and Fuji X E-1, I have never seen anything like this. I got the camera with 25 actuations so on it on Sept. 8. I ignored the actuations and liked everything about the camera until this happened. However it's going back to return unless I get a substantial explanation about what would cause this.
I'm working just from my iPad, so I don't think I can downsize the files to upload. I will when I get home later this week. Has anyone heard anything about this problem with the X T-2? The spots are definitely not dust or anything I've ever seen.
I've always been curious about the Peak Design Messenger Bags, especially the smaller 13" version, but I didn't want to buy one just to find out that it doesn't work well for me. So I watched most Youtube videos about them and tried to find out as much as possible.
Overall, the bags seem to have many good ideas and features but also quite some downsides, at least for me. I've heard about straps not holding their length, no space for a pen even though there is a bunch of "pre-divided" space, the front pocket being too flat and so on.
Overall, what I saw didn't make me jump at them but I was definitely curious about the feature that a lot of reviews rave about: the "origami dividers". So, to find out more about these, I ordered some and used them for a bit in my very similarly sized Billingham Hadley Pro. Of course, I'm not making any statements about the Messenger bags after this test, but I am making a statement about the dividers, so, if you are curious, read on.
Reviews and also Peak Design's own videos were pointing out these dividers as if they were the greatest thing ever happening to camera bags. Saying that others try to put "round things into square holes", and how inflexible other bags are and I have to say – they aren't wrong. Unfortunately, I didn't find that the Peak Design dividers are a solution to these problem:
After a few days of using them I plain couldn't stand them anymore. I went back to the standard Billingham dividers and set up a slightly different partitioning than I had before and I'm happy with that.
- Round things – square holes and the wasted space: sure thing, that's happening, but the Peak Design dividers waste about the same amount of space, just in a different part of the bag. It doesn't help you if you wrap them around a lens to make it fit better if you are leaving larger areas unoccupied on the other side.
- Flexibility: They are flexible, but really not that much actually. Sure, you pull the bottom velcro and move them to the side, but ... would I do that? No, not really. They also don't fold away as nicely as I hoped, have to be pulled up for it (bottom velcro) and are actually pretty stiff to move.
- Folding: the folding mechanism can fold down for example on top of the lens, but the downside of this is that it removes the division of the bag above that lens. So, that's kind of useless to me. I'd like to stack lenses, but if you fold down both of these dividers, you end up with an open space on top that runs the full width of the bag. Useless. Or useful, depending on what you want to put there.
Summary: Personally, I think these "origami style" dividers are not a solution at all. Instead they created more problems for me and where actually less flexible for the bag layout than the Billingham dividers. So, I'm out a few bucks, gained some experience, and am cured from looking at the Peak Design Everyday Messenger bags as camera bags for me.
Now, all that being said, I'm a backer of their 20L Everyday Backpack and hope that the more flexible dividers in that one are more useful and the other features of the pack will work for me. We'll have to see when it finally arrives, but right now, I'm not nearly as hopeful as I was when I backed the campaign.
Last year I noticed with the X-T1 and the 23mm lens, that many of the pictures that I shot at 1/125th of a second or slower just weren't sharp. At first I thought it was the lens, but then ran a few tests - using the monopod and tripod, and determined that it must be me, that I wan't holding the camera steady enough, although I thought that 1/125th should be way fast enough not to have any camera shake affect the results. Fast forward to today - shooting the X-T2 over the weekend at an event - choral group in a hallway - using the 16 - most shots at 1.4 to 2.0 with shutter speed 1/125th. Again, zoomed in to 100 percent there is a definite lack of sharpness ... those shots at 1/160th or faster are crisp. Again, I ran some tests with monopod, and could get fairly clear shots even at 1/15th .... so, another lesson learned this late in life Note - many of the shots that were obviously not sharp were held arm out using the LCD ... many of those that I had better results with were eye to the EVF and arm braced. I was a bit surprised given that the 16 is much smaller/lighter than the 23.
x-e2, 55-200@200 F11,1/125
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I am trying to get a group of photos out to family members that attended a wedding. I have the latest (subscription) version of LR/PS.
Any recs for a plug in to touch up those shiny foreheads and character lines?
I can connect without problem between my Android mobile phone or tablet and the camera, but if I change the default shooting settings I just can shoot only one pics and a message "processing" appears in the window of my app, the problem goes if I reset the camera, but when I change again from JPG to RAW the problem returns. Another thing I discovered is if I change in camera remote to shoot a movie and return to shoot a pic I can but only ones and the message return, any advice will be much appreciate, thanks
I wandered around the National Rhododendron Gardens on the weekend. These are located in Richard_R's backyard. We're very fortunate here in Melbourne, Australia to have so many beautiful gardens available for us to enjoy all year round.
Just wondering if anyone had any insight or further details about the update that is supposed to be coming in October? I recall back in July that October was the quoted time frame but hadn't heard much else since.
Good evening Ladies and Gentlemen,
I have the pleasure to travel to Japan at the end of next week. A bit more than 3 weeks total, 10 days in Tokyo, 4 days to travel from Tokyo to Osaka and 9 days touring with a group (Osaka, Hiroshima, Kyoto, Hakone).
I am looking for tips, what to visit during 4 days of travel from Tokyo to Osaka and what to look for in Tokyo. I love to visit galleries, exhibitions and interesting places which are a little bit off the beaten path. Preferably walking a lot from gallery to gallery, this is my method to discover a city.
I have been in Asia a lot, but this is the first time in Japan.
So, I am kindly asking for your suggestions and I wonder where you will guide me to ...
X-Pro2 fliying into the Alps. Flight to the highest (2962m) mountain in Germany, directly at the Austrian border. There are many higher mountains in the Alps, but I did forget my Austrian and Swiss charts at home, grrrrrr, so only a short trip into the Alps as far as my german charts allowed.
Ground fog after take off:
Take off to the Zugspitze by magnetisch, auf Flickr
An early morning balloon flight. Casting a beautiful shadow:
Big balloon, big shadow. by magnetisch, auf Flickr
Crossing a large area full of ground fog and low clouds:
Cloudbank - on top by magnetisch, auf Flickr
I had to stop at Kempten due to too much coffee for breakfast...
Kempten by magnetisch, auf Flickr
Approaching the Alps:
Flying into the Alps by magnetisch, auf Flickr
Zugspitze peak. The air was very turbulent, I had to fly and shoot through the tiny window in the canpy simultaneously. All I got was this shot. :-/
Zugspitze by magnetisch, auf Flickr
Crossing a part of the Austrian alps with the help of Innsbruck Radar Controllers. Thanks.
Through the Alps by magnetisch, auf Flickr
Looking into the Ötztal from a distance:
Ötztal by magnetisch, auf Flickr
For those of you who have both the X-T1 and X-T2 and have had their Nissin i40 FW recently updated I would like to know if the 'hidden' HSS is still functioning on the X-T1.
My i40 has not been updated and I would prefer not to lose the HSS ability on the X-T1.
For me this is more important than gaining TTL on the X-T2. I can still use it as a slave on the X-T2 and thats fine with me.
If anyone has received their updated i40 and has checked out HSS on the X-T1 would you please share your findings. Truly much appreciated!