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I've used an X-Pro1 since it was released...I absolutely love the camera, especially the look of the files...mainly the beautiful colour. I think the colour output of the original X100 and X-Pro1 are perfect...but the AF hit rate on shallow DOF portraits is killing me...I do a lot of travel portraits where you don't get a second chance...I have to get the shot in 3 seconds or it's gone.

I did buy an X-T1 but it sits on the shelf unused...I dislike the ergonomics, the DSLR form factor and also the X-trans II sensor images...they just don't look "right" for my taste. However, I do love the eye detection and fast operation of the X-T1...My hit rate with shallow DOF is way better with the X-T1 but I get no pleasure from using it.

For folks who went from the X-Pro1 to X-Pro2...how are you getting on? Is the new sensor delivering? Are you happy with the files? Does it still have the magic of the original?
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A "Caspeco T" lens, 28mm/F3.5/M42 thread, for possible use on my Fuji X-E1. Lens' rear shows "CS" (?) and rear cap has a logo unknown to me. Can any member shed some light, thanks in advance.
So far I've been using Konica with neat results, a 55mm/F3.5 Macro (the two part unit that gives up to 1:1) and the 50mm/F1.7 with an eBay adapter. Nice bokeh but tripod-necessary for the former.

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XP2 + XF35 1.4

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I am starting to learn how to light with two flashes (Lumopro LP108's) and my X-E1 (and perhaps a Pro2 in the very near future) and want to get wireless flash triggers. Really am tired of almost tripping frequently because of the wire running from tha camera to the flash.

Also I would like to be able to trigger the flashes remotely from a light meter and then get a reading. Have not bought one yet but am considering getting the Sekonic L-308S-U http://www.sekonic.com/united-states/products/l-308s-u/overview.aspx

So my questions are this: Is there an easy way to trigger a flash remotely using the Sekonic? Can I buy some wireless trigger to attach to the Sekonic? Would also like to have one on the camera at all times and not have to remove it so I guess that I would need to get two transmitters. I bet that this is commonly done in studios but have not found a resonably priced solution. I know that I can get a Sekonic meter that will trigger Pocketwizard receivers but that meter alone is $400 vs $200 for the L-308S-U.

Next, can you recommend a resonably priced set of 2 receivers and 2 transmitters? I am guessing that is the route that I will have to go. Found one called the Vello Freewave LR for example and I could buy 2 sets of 2 receivers and 2 transmitters http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1040166-REG/vello_rfw_lr_vello_freewave_fusion_lr.html This transmitter has a test button and I assume that is to trigger the flash?

Does what I propose make sense? Is it doable to have 2 receivers and 2 transmitters for one setup?

I am not committed to any particular products and would value your suggestions on how to do this. Would like the keep the cost around $300+ or so.

Thanks

Zack S
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Hi I'm Paul Stewart and I'm new to this forum new to the X system but not to Fuji cameras (either digital or film) and not to photography. I've been a professional press photographer for 45 years, a contributor to the British Journal of Photography and the UK pro photography magazines and I was the editor of HotShoe International. My current day, or should that be night, job is Night Picture Editor of the Daily Express Newspaper. I'm still a highly active photographer working on a lot of projects, if you want to check them out, please have a look at my website paulstewartphoto.co.uk.

My experience with Fuji digitals goes back to the original Nikon/Fujix, in fact I covered part of the funeral of Princess Diana for the London Evening Standard using a Fuji digital. However I have been so taken by the X Pro-2 that as it was time to upgrade my Nikon D3Ss, I changed over to the X system and both I and my clients are really taken with the results.
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My sincere apologies if this has been dealt with elsewhere. I did the requisite search and couldn't find anything on comparisons.
The below is not a complaint, rather an observation.
Around the first of the year, when X-Pro1 prices plummeted, I picked one up here in the US. I've been using it in tandem with an X-E1 that I've had for a couple of years.
Both cameras are set up identically, yet the X-Pro1 seems to burn through battery life at a much faster clip.
While I haven't kept track of the image counts on each camera (I will in the future) it seems to be in need of a change much more quickly.
Don't get me wrong, I love the thing, but it's just weird, considering there's no real difference in the cameras.
Has anyone else experienced this and/or have any idea why it might be the case?
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Is it possible on the XM1....because thats a useful festure on the XPro1 ....especially while shooting mono. The exposure does show when the shutter release is pressed halfway down but Im hoping it will do it automatically?
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Flatford Mill in Suffolk, taken with the X-Pro2 and 18-55 lens, converted from raw in Lightroom and Acros pre-set applied.

[​IMG]Flatford Mill by Stephen Lee, on Flickr
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Good morning Braintrust!
I have used a few old manual lenses with adapters on my Fuji X bodies and recently acquired a 6x6 medium format film camera. On the Fujis, it seems that I can use pretty much any lens that I can find a BrandX-to-FujiXF adapter for - does this also apply to old manual 35mm film bodies? For example, if I could find my old Minolta x700 body, can I adapt lenses from other makers to it with a simple adapter? I like the idea of dabbling in some 35mm film (though this enthusiasm might vanish when I get my first batch of muddy ill-exposed 6x6 film/prints back from the lab...) but I'll never be sufficiently into it to want to acquire a range of brand-specific lenses. In other words, I would only want to buy lenses that work well with my Fuji cameras - but would love it if that same hodge-podge collection of lenses could also be adapted to a film body. When I was at my local brick & mortar shop yesterday picking up a1.4x teleconverter I saw that they had a case full of likely suspects. Is there anything I should know in this regard, such as certain brands of body work best for this purpose because of flange distance, availability of adapters, whatever?
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I've been sort of laying low with adapted lenses lately but I picked this one up yesterday. First one I've owned so I thought I'd see what it looked like. I wasn't so much interested in the resolution as I was in the OOF highlights (I'm resolved to go a year without using the B-word).
The wind was blowing and I didn't nail the MF but I liked the background areas.

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I suppose you had all seen this already?

"Unannounced Fuji X-T2 Shows Up on Ebay" LINK

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This was a quick 10 minute setup and shoot with my son. I wanted to get a couple of photos I could put into Mother's Day cards for the mothers in my life.

53" thunder grey seamless background
1 speedlite, camera left with a 45 degree grid @ 1/32 power
1 speedlite, inside 28" softbox, camera right @ 1/2 power

Shot with:
Fuji XT-1
Fuji XF 56mm f/1.2 (85mm) @ f/5.6
ISO 400
1/180s shutter speed

processed for a vintage feel. I was wanting something like the old LIFE magazines I used to see.

[​IMG]Mother's Day 6 by Phillip, on Flickr

[​IMG]Mother's Day 4 by Phillip, on Flickr
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This was taken with an Olympus OM-1 and, probably, a Zuiko 35mm lens. A Kodachrome slide that I just copied today using my Nikon D90 with the 85mm macro lens and a small light box (to back light the slides). Camera mounted on a tripod with a Manfrotto ball head and pointed down at the light box.

I haven't looked at this in years. Now, it's digital!

[​IMG]Moonrise - 1981 by CSG_Photography, on Flickr
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Hello everyone. I am new to the the X system but not so new to shooting with old lenses. I did shoot with canon before but now I made my switch. Recently, I've been shooting lots of landscape and my 12mm f2 rokinon has been great. But sometimes I wish I had something a little higher than 12mm. maybe something between 16 to 21mm. Anyone recommend anything for that? So far I have

8mm Rokinon fisheye f2.8
12mm rokinon f2
Mir 1b 37mm f2.8
50mm f1.8 olympus OM
70-210mm vivitar f2.8-4

I'm loving the setup for landscape/portrait. Just want something nice for landscape in between my rokinon and Mir 1b
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Fourteen blades for a nice rounded aperture at any stop. A little glow wide open but sharpens up pretty quickly at F2.8 and smaller. F5.6 makes for a sharp image across the frame. Fairly small for a fast 85mm with an unusual aperture preset which allows for accurate focus at F1.8 and a quick flick to the desired setting. If there's one thing that I would change it would be a shorter min. focus distance.

Here it is on an NEX-6(sorry).
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manyblades
by john matsu, on Flickr

And here's a few samples of it at semi close up range(nikon k3 ring) to show the smooth background render. F1.8, F2.8, F4, F5.6, and F8. I'll try and add some real world samples to the thread shortly.

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vivitar 85mm 1.8 preset T mount
by john matsu, on Flickr

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vivitar 85mm 1.8 preset T mount
by john matsu, on Flickr

[​IMG]vivitar 85mm 1.8 preset T mount by john matsu, on Flickr

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vivitar 85mm 1.8 preset T mount
by john matsu, on Flickr

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vivitar 85mm 1.8 preset T mount
by john matsu, on Flickr
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Shot this morning, Fuji XT1, 10-24 @ 24,, f8, 1/18s, ISO200.[​IMG]
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Along the Salish Sea looking out toward the entrance to the Pacific Ocean.
X Pro-2 / 10-24mm f/4

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I just took delivery of a new XPro-1 from Amazon, unwrapped it, set it up, and went out yesterday for errands. A little bit of shooting. Now I look at the eyepiece and there is nothing in the threaded opening. I never noticed if there is a "blank" eyepiece or perhaps just an empty ring that lives in that collar.

Until my first try at picking the right diopter arrives I'm using a pair of glasses made for computer desk distance only and that seems to work reasonably well for the finder info and distant subject matter. I was pleasantly surprised that I could see all the edge elements, but the lenses of these glasses are going to really scratch.

If my diopters have no rubber ring cushion it may be a case for Sugru (spelling?)

I have read all the threads about eyepieces. Thanks to all that wrote over the last four years about their eyepiece/correction solutions and resources.
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Sometimes is hard to wake up early in the morning to see the sunrise... however the reward can be great... as this sunrise.

Come check out my site here: www.josecarpin.com

Fuji XT-1 + Samyang 12mm

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On my x-t10, image.jpeg image.jpeg a couple with a strapped on pentax zoom.. shot at about 200mm - seems to keep up ok :)
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Dandelions and crabapple blossom


X100

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Abandoned truck in industrial area X100

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Skunk cabbage along the Little Plover River.

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The same X100 file processed in two versions:

1. Pretty much straight up with little processing beyond some touches to exposure and a slight bit of sharpening
2. Run through Snapseed for a more artistic (used advisedly) look

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How you focus when using longer lens such as 56mm up in OVF. I found most image from long lens or large size lens will cover or cover partially by the lens itself but in EVF, I could see every thing. Let me know your experience on that issue. Thanks
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The trails are drying out nicely and from this time of year much of my photo time / oppurtunities are from a mountain bike, usually on a fast-ish ride with other people, (which really restricts the time one has to get a shot!) Here are a few from last nights ride; a lovely route through the woods to see the bluebellsin the low light then onto the downs westwards towards the sunset)

A lucky place for a friend to have her puncture, I got 5 minutes to shoot in the evening sun whilst it was fixed :)
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Riding back up from the weald (much steeper than it looks!)
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I saw this well placed puddle reflecting the sunlight. Here I got 5 seconds to whip the camera out and take a frame before our friends disappeared over the horizon (the pace is quite fast and I have to work hard to catch up after a stop like this)
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Near the end of the ride on New timber hill. The sky is nice but more fun with some cooperative riders for silhouette:
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thanks for looking, any crits are very welcome.

cheers!
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Hello all

I've just rec'd a 35mm f2 from the Fuji refurb store but I am concerned about the focusing close up.

I don't mean macro close up as I know it doesn't focus that closely but say 45cm away - for eg on some flowers in a vase it just can't lock on - is this normal ?

If I change from zone to spot focusing its fine but it does seem worse than other lenses I've used ?

Don't know if I'm being paranoid because it's a refurb lens !

Thanks
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Hi guys, i am currently looking for some old manual zoom lens to buy. Reading and reading posts in the past few weeks, i found the following two lenses as a good choice:
- Canon FD 80-200mm f/4L
- Vivitar Series 1 70-210mm f/3.5 Macro MD

I cannot find a direct comparison of the two lenses anywhere. So my question is - which of the two would you recommend, which has a better IQ? Canon is like 5 times more expensive than the vivitar, is it worth the price?
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Just a few shots from last weekend spent in Milano

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my x-t10 has a button i can use for each exposure and focus on the back of the body and i like to make use of them both. On my new xpro1 i notice there is only one button, so it seems an either one or the other or both together on the one button situation. can anyone fill me in on how to lock exposure separately, if i'm just using that back button to focus.? thanks
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I'm looking for some advice from the knowledgeable folk on here. I have a specific job to do with the x-E1 which requires the use off-camera flash. I rarely use flash, so I'd like to avoid buying kit which will be used once or twice, and then left idle. I do still have (from the Canon days) a 580-EX flash and a OC-E2 cord - my question is: can these be used on the x-E1 without damage to any of the components?

I understand (I think:confused:) that the TTL will not be available, but that's fine - I'm simply concerned about the risk of damaging the equipment.

TIA.
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X-T1 & XF 60

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After having my 50-140 nearly fall off my tripod (camera strap fortunately still around my neck!), I replaced both the tripod and lens foot. Looking closer, for some CRAZY reason Fuji seems to have tapered the foot of the lens that comes with it. Why? How can you blow a basic thing like this? Dunno, but this means that unless you have a tapering tripod formed head plate... maybe you'll want to do as I did and grab a ReallyRightStuff plate to replace it with a straight non-tapering edge on both sides for a very secure mount. Price ain't bad.

BTW, RRS tripod and head prices... well, I'll say it - yes, they're bad. Ouch even. But after a photo safari with a friend who had one... gotta say their gear is first rate while mine was... well, adequate at best. Recommended highly. Lightweight, but heavy duty. Go this route and your tripod's gonna run close to the value of the camera but I'd doubt you could do better. Again... ouch. But I suspect in the long run, it's a once in a lifetime investment.

Problem of course is I don't use a tripod all that much, but maybe that's a failing on my part and a decent one like RRS offers would up the ante, make it easier to swing, and I'd go there more often? It's a thought. We'll see.
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XPro1 and XF55-200mm today trying to stay unstuck :cool:

Thanks for looking,
Ed
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My wife and I were visiting family in St. George, Utah, back in March when presidential candidate John Kasich held a town meeting. We decided to go see a real live candidate, and I wanted a chance practice some "photo journalism" and to try out my recently purchased XP1 and 18-135.

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Hi all, i Have three Fuji lenses to attach to my X-e2, do i need firmware for each? if i were to go by latest there are 2 separate for 2 of my lenses. i have the xf 18 -55 and the xf 55-200 both suggest different firmware available from same date! I also have the 35mm f1.4....currently my camera shows body vers. 4.00 and lens vers. 3.10.......im guessing i should have lens vers. 3.12 for the 18-55....but the list suggest i should have Lens vers. 1.12 for the 55-200, both updates released same day.... Help...Please
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Hi. So I just switched to the fuji x-t10. At the moment I am using my old olympus 50mm f1.8 with my x-t10 for some portrait fun, the adapter im using has no AF Confirmation chip. My question is, is this the reason I can't zoom in during live view to check for focus? I use to on my canon and it was fine, id zoom in live view to check focus and snap my picture. If this is the case, is there any adapters out there or way to do this? If not I guess I will have to invest in native X mount lenses. I really like zooming in to confirm focus.
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