So, I found one for cheap online and ordered. Opened it, was in decent condition, optically some filming, maybe a spot or two of mould (?) but otherwise decent. And I was stoked to find it was the original version (Kiron)... but... I can't get it sharp no matter what. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I can't for the life of me get it going. Maybe there's an issue, but it was from a camera shop that supposedly checks them out and ships 100% mechanically sound. Oh well, off to play some more.
I need a remote to take long exposures (over 30 seconds).
It will only be used to open the shutter then shut it down on demand.
What is the difference between a wireless remote (e.g. Canon RC-6 for $10 in a generic version) and a wired (e.g. Canon RS-60E for $15 or so)?
The wireless seems a lot more convenient and it's cheaper so I must be missing something
And, can you confirm that the Canon remotes will work on the X-T1?
Took a trip to Savannah this past weekend. It was super duper hot! It's not easy spending time taking pics when you have a 17 month old in tow but it can be done! Here are a few pics, all X-T1 and various Fuji lenses.
Florida soft-shell turtle by Neil, on Flickr
Little Egret by Neil, on Flickr
Cathedral of St. John by Neil, on Flickr
St. John's Cathedral by Neil, on Flickr
Turkey Vulture by Neil, on Flickr
X-T1 and 50-140mm
16 shot panorama, 2 rows of 8 images. Fuji x100s, iso 200, f16, 6.5s with ND filter on.
Cactus V6 ii HSS using the Godox Wistro AD-360 off camera & Godox V850 flash in hot shoe of Cactus V6 ii With the X-T10 at 1/4000. The first image is of the Godox Wistro AD-360 taken with the X-T10 @ 1/4000. I used the Cactus V6 ii HSS in hot shoe of the X-T10 , the Godox XT16 in the Cactus V6 hot shoe the Gdox XTR-16 plugged into the AD360 setting for the Cactus V6 ii Camera system is set as Fujifilm, Flash system is Nikon, flash profile is Auto Nikon. Once you've used the 'Learn function all you need to do is press the thumb wheel and it displays Forced HSS. Note thanks to Our fellow member KSG Photography for the setting for the Cactus V6 ii settings. The second image is taken with the Godox V850 in the hot shoe of the Cactus V6 ii using the X-T10 at 1/4000. Both the Ad360 and the V850 have to be set to HSS.
Does anyone have some real life examples showing the type of effect you can achieve using this sort of adapter.https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fotodiox-A...987490&sr=8-4&keywords=shift+adapter+fujifilmhttps://www.amazon.co.uk/Fotodiox-A...987490&sr=8-4&keywords=shift+adapter+fujifilm
We were visiting friends in the Franche-Comté region of France a few weeks ago. I took this one at the village fête as the toddler was running towards something that had obviously caught his eye.... the little beggar was running too quick for me to get perfect manual focus with my 75mm f1.4, but I like the mood of this picture nonetheless.
And no worries, the parents caught up with him soon enough !
What is a mirrorless camera, and is it a viable alternative to the DSLR? In this tutorial we explain the technology that powers them.
I just acquired a Nikkor HC 50/2 and am pretty impressed by it. I started looking at some of the older Nikkor lenses and was thinking about picking up either the Nikkor N 24/2.8 or the Nikkor-O 35/2. I like the build of the older non AI style of lens (although I do have a 28/2 AiS) and both of the lenses above have close focusing so I thought they might be a nice fit for the way I like to work. Both can be found pretty reasonably (just a bit over $100 in nice shape) but I don't see many folks using these older Nikkors on Fuji X bodies and I was wondering if anyone here had any thoughts about them.
I don't really need either lens but I really like the way the HC 50/2 renders and I would gladly get a slightly wider lens with the same sort of look to go with it. I'm leaning toward the 35/2.
We had one of the "Tough Mudder" events in the park at the weekend, 14,000 entrants for it and most for charitable support.
The idea was to complete a run with obstacles to negotiate and rather than a race it was to remain as a team and complete together, some very wet and muddy obstacles.
I managed to get up there for a couple of hours with the XPro2+16-55 and grabbed some images that I am happy with - would have liked more time so next time will plan for the day!
I dropped my X70 on cement while I was walking in to work this morning. The damage was to the right side of the camera. Near the exposure compensation dial. The silver piece has more of a gap now, and there are some indents in the plastic of it. The indents don't bother me, but the gaps seem like they may become an issue in the future.
Has this happened to anyone? Could dust find a way in to the camera through the gap now? Am I overthinking it and shouldn't worry about it? I contacted Fuji Canada to see what it would cost to fix the gap.
Yesterday we noticed the Monarch Butterfly Caterpillars are starting to hatch in the garden.
I don't know which end is the head or the tail.....
Meanwhile the milkweed bugs are having their feast on the pods.
Both shots taken with Nikon 80 - 200 f/2.8 zoom at 200mm, f/11.
MCEX11 extension ring and Metabones adapter.
X-T1 on a tripod.
Care taken to get the color balance right.
Silly question but I was just curious if anyone has found a successful way of attaching the WCL (or TCL) to the X100/s/t using the bayonet mount that the filter and hood adaptor provides. If so, how does the change in length render it unusable? I would consider adding the WCL to my kit if it weren't for the threaded connection.
Here is a Milky Way shot from a somewhat light polluted site here in southern California. This was taken with a X-T1, 12mm Rokinon at f3.5 and is 49 exposures of 160seconds each at ISO1600. So that is a total of around 130 minutes. I was testing a new tracking mount, actually comparing several mount. This was taken on a Skywatcher Star Adventurer.
Milkyway_XT1-12-49x160 by Alan Smallbone, on Flickr
This was stacked and processed in an astronomy program called Pixinsight. It is very specialized, extremely high learning curve, not user friendly and hardly any documentation. It is however very sophisticated for image processing. It has some very specialized procedures for removing things like gradients caused by the light pollution. Here is the first and last frame of the sequence, basically the out of camera preview thumbnail to show you the extent of the light pollution gradients. When stretched they cover most of the image. Many frames had aircraft going through them and other undesirables.
MW-start-end by Alan Smallbone, on Flickr
If you have any questions feel free to ask away. This was quite a few hours of processing time.
It was on my must buy list, and finally bought it 2 weeks ago. Waited for one week to test it on a road trip to Grand canyon, but something went wrong. I used to use primes on my x-t1 and used to have 24-105 on my canon 6d and was very happy about image quality, but with this lens something is weird. For the first i dismounted to clean both back and front glass, and saw something like one of elements inside of lens are like rolling (i can see it through back glass when tilting a bit) didn't think was a huge problem. Then when started taking pictures caught myself not enjoying "tack sharp" lens quality. Some weird feelings about this lens. Maybe you could say if this is my imagination or it's really not sharp and might be the problem of focus system init. Thank you for answers !!!
back when I first got into doing creative artistic things to my images for fine art America, I bought a very simple software. It has two sliders and was simple to use. I think possibly I paid around $90 for it, but can't swear to it. When I changed from PC to Mac, it wasn't compatible and I'd bought other software.
I've stayed on the mailing list, though, and recently got an email that it was going to be withdrawn with no support Sept. 1st.
It is being sold for $6.00 right now. It's available for PC or Mac. It is a stand-alone, at least it is for my Mac, but I bought it again.
This isn't a fancy software, but offhand, I know I've sold at least one image developed with it.
The effect I use is the bottom slider of the two, which renders a soft, blurry rendition something like an impressionistic painting.
Even if you're not into selling, maybe one for your wall?
Can't beat 6 bucks. I've already done two, and really like the effect.
I've had a busy couple of weeks with my motion design business. No time for fun. Finally had a chance to get out today for a quick photo walk. My "baby", the Zeiss Contax 100mm f/2 C/Y, has been a bit neglected lately, so I decided it needed a little TLC.
All shot in and around DUMBO, Brooklyn, and Brooklyn Bridge Park.
All Sony A7ii + Contax 100mm f/2, and all wide open at f/2.
Water St. Shadows
Water St. Light Fixture
Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass (DUMBO)
Pier 2 Courts
When I attach the samsung 8 mm fish eye lens to my xpro2, the camera appears to recognize it but nothing happens when I depress the shutter. Is there some other setting I need to change?
white lantern by kevin dixey, on Flickr
cara by kevin dixey, on Flickr
I just picked up an old Nikkor HC 50/2 (circa 1972). The focus action is a bit lighter than I like (compared to my Minolta or Pentax lenses) but it's almost identical to the focus action on my 28/2 AiS so maybe it's just a Nikon thing. It's small, really well made and works well on the X-P1. I need to spend spend more time with it but so far I like it.
The 3D look it gave me on the mask is especially nice.
I guess I'll never learn. I bought a cheap adapter from China on eBay. I put it on my Minolta MD Rokker-X lens and now I can't get it off. I'm pushing in the small pin and it does twist, but it does not come off.
On top of that, when it's 'locked' into place with the lens, there is a lot of movement. Unless I push the lens towards my face when I'm taking a picture, the quality is terrible. If I didn't have this issue, I'd probably be ok with having them stuck together.
Any ideas on how to get these separated so I can throw it in trash? Then I'll start looking for a better quality adapter.
Thanks in advance.
Hi, just received the x70. I'm pretty sure the flash sync speed can go beyond 1/500 even up to 1/2000. However, I'm not getting the flash exposure beyond 1/500.
Setup: flashq triggers, nissin i40 flash on manual.
According to their website. Amazon as well