Firstly, how can I increase the post take image beyond 1.5 seconds as the only higher time is continous.
Secondly, how can I set a function button to bring up setting iso from auto-iso through the range?
I recently purchased the X-T10 and am blown away by the images I have seen posted on this forum! There is just incredible talent here!
I have to assume most posting are professionals with years of experience and knowledge. I would like to be able to just take good pictures and aspire to be my highest photographer self that I can be!
I am looking for any tips and advice to create the mind blowing images I have seen. I am wondering if most of the impact of these shots were created post? I also seem to be having a hard time getting a real sharp focus. Should I be using a tripod with shutter release, or adjust the shutter speed? Should I be able to handhold and get a focused image?
How do other spectacle wearers work with their cameras?
On my old camera, the eye-cup could be removed, so I could keep my specs on and compose my picture properly. There doesn't seem to be a way of removing the eye-cup on the X-E2, so with my specs on I can't see the full frame and the dioptre adjustment doesn't go far enough for me to see properly without them.
I find I'm composing through a blur, which I can manage, but it isn't ideal...
help me out here
iam sure I had a horizontal green line on my lcd screen when i first got the camera
but it seems to have vanished
Hi I'm new to this site and the x100t.
If I set the camera to manual I get a reference to my exposure in the viewfinder under or over exposure and I can adjust this. If I set it to semi-automatic I no longer see a reference to under or over exposure (exposure bar grayed out) . If the light is to low even at f2 there is no indication that I can see and if I take the shot it's under exposed. On my Cannon is this situation there would be a warning in the viewfinder of this. Am I missing something or do indeed to switch something on?
I have a nice collection of portraits that I took of my students during photography class last year.
I did, however, never have their parents sign a model release and therefore it'd be illegal to use these photographs in public (online, for example).
But what's the situation look like with a personal printed portfolio to show to clients or to a potential employer?
I've been a member here for awhile, since I bought my X20, however have been absent from posting. I've recently bought an X-T1 (coming from a Canon 40D). I've been away from photography as my life became complicated with personal matters. I've always found photography a way to relax and destress from everyday life, as I enjoy landscape, nature, and travel photography.
Thanks hosting a great forums with informative and helpful information!
I just recently bought an X-T,1 and am new to the X-T1 world, previously coming from Canon for my DSLR, and the X20 for my P&S.
I am looking at getting the Markins L-Bracket for the X-T1. I am looking for one of those remotes that is similar to the TC80N3 where there are multiple functions and an LCD screen. The ones that are compatible for the X-T1, have a straight adaptor, and I am looking for a 90 degree adapter for maximum clearance.
I do have a TC80N3, and Canon has an adapter (RA-E3) that converts N3 to E3, however their product description describes the E3 plug as 3.5mm. I am not willing to modify the TC80N3 into a mini plug, and I am not sure if the RA-E3 adapter will work, even if it fits into the X-T1.
I would appreciate if anyone can recommend a wired remote (w/ LCD screen, intervalometer, and timer) that would work with a L-bracket.
Main system is m43. Sacrificed a lens so I could get better use out of the Voigtlander lens. Helicoid adapter is a generic one, brings the minimum focus from 0.7m down to about 0.2. Seems to work fine!
18 shot panorama using a Fuji X100S (2 rows of 9 images) . Stitched with PTGUI, then sharpened and cropped in Photoshop. My friend took me on a long drive from London to Weymouth and back, 12th October 2015.
Hello there. Anyone want to see some portraits I did on Saturday ?
I used XF23 XF35 XF56 primes on XT1 XE1 XE2 respectively
Feedback welcome. I am Semi-Professional level, or sometimes barely Semi-Pro.
Milford Photo :: eBay Store
Just a few things, but they be of interest.
Recently, I've followed several threads, here and elsewhere, about the merits of whether a subject should be rendered in black and white or color?
Herewith, I offer two examples. I just knew this image needed to be in color when I shot it...and then I saw my accompanying black and white JPEG's. Rethinking that thought.
I've tried to explain to friends, the rationale for shooting in black and white, which I do probably 90% of the time. My son said to me recently, "There you go again Dad, using that grey filter". But, color just gets in the way so many times, at least for me. And, then there's the occasion when you see something that just screams color and there's no other way to do that image.
By the way, this image was shot with Fuji's XF 2.8/16-55, the best rendering lens I've ever owned, period.
Please offer the reasons you'd process this image in color, or in black and white?
Thanks for looking!
Hi all, I'm fairly new to the Fuji world and the whole issue of x-trans files and using adobe programs to edit images. My old flow was something along the lines of import from memory card to storage drives using LR3> manage library> basic edits and exports using LR3 OR occasionally use photoshop CS5 for advanced editing or photomerging panoramas. Bottom line is I love managing my library with LR and currently don't do a lot of advanced editing. I'm reading all kinds of articles and reviews about solutions for Fuji users but getting pretty confused about it all. I really need to get a solution happening before my imaging descends into chaos. Can anyone suggest a) what solution I should (or need to) look at if I want to stick with adobe despite its less than desirable compatibility with x-trans files or b) what other system I can use to manage my library and edit RAF's easily?
I appreciate any assistance or direction.
The People's Palace museum in Glasgow throws up many sobering thoughts - from the slave trade which made a few Glaswegians wealthy and financed many great buildings in the city - to the Spanish Civil War.
A Silver Collar for a slave. This is a silver engraved slave collar presumably to show the wealth of 'the master'.
Went for a walk lunchtime and came across what is, apparently, one of the finest Victorian cemeteries - London Road, Coventry:
This is awful.. Everything is confusing, compared to the old layout. Where is the feedback now? Why can't I edit in buy/sell?
C'mon guys. I want to use this forum.
I had the good fortune to be able to find not only a model who was into the whole 50's vibe, but also a friend knew the owner of this beautiful 57 Chevy. Shot with X-T1, 56, 35 and 16mm lenses.
The model for this was Ivory Rose/ Pinup
I just got back from my first real trip with the XP1. I went to Martha's Vineyard and took both the XP1 and my x100s. I found that using the XP1 with the 35mm lens and the x100s together allowed me to cover a lot of ground but there were occasions when I just wanted to carry the XP1 along with the 27 mm lens. My question is - what suggestions do you have for carrying that very small 27mm lens with no bag? I do not feel comfortable just putting it in my pocket as I think the lens caps could easily come off resulting in damage. Is there a lens case option that will attach to your belt loop? It's such a tiny lens and I'm sure someone has sourced the ultimate solution - not interested in a vest solution either.
Traded some stuff around recently and got out of Canon for the xt1 and a few lenses. I had the x100s but parted with it for more XF glass.
To pair with my xt1, I'm currently debating between a used x20,x30,x100 or an x-e1. I'd like a spare to keep a small profile. I guess the x-e1 would be the largest setup and I'd need to then grab the 27mm or 18mm to keep it small.
Would I be better off trying to find a steal on an earlier x model like the ones mentioned above? The other option is possibly just getting an x100s again. I guess I was just looking for a change.
Currently I'm using:
As I await delivery of my Nissin i40 for use with my new X100T I'm wondering about bounce flash setting.
Will it make any difference what flash zoom setting is used when in bounce mode?
Another question for those with this flash. I saw elsewhere that the focus assist light does not work. The light on the Fuji works instead?
I just got
Yongnuo YN560 IV
Yongnuo YN560 III
Yongnuo 560 TX
All is working fine, but I can't find how to change Settings on YN560 III from controller 560 TX
Both flashes trigger, and when I change settings for YN560 IV from controlor - it works.
But for YN560 III it does not.
Actually on model YN560 III I don't have GR option at screen at all.
Can anybody help with this please.
Clear sunrise this morning so I got out of the La Z Boy chair.
Hi guys I'm a 21 yo student from Lisbon, Portugal and I got the X-Pro 1 and the 18mm & waiting for the 35mm f2.
Got this lens in the mail the other day. Couldn't have been more pristine! Did a quick look-see with the ol' flashlight and was good to go. No surface scratches on either front or rear elements, clear all the way through, haze-free. Likely N(v)OS (new very old stock) as I'm told a lot of Hexanons got shelved various places and never made it onto a camera. Stoked!
As expected, the lens performs in a quirky manner. Right up my alley. To say that it's "soft" or "glowy" wide open, may be putting things too simply. At f/1.8, it does seem especially challenged in settings where there are bright specular highlights, and with any settings which would require a "proper exposure", but in the most muted of conditions, and underexposed, it is able to render fine detail very well. No Fuji or Zeiss, but pretty darn impressive for a $45 piece of glass.
So, I stuck it on and left it on over the weekend. As usual, not a lot of time for unfettered shooting, so most of what I shot in this hackneyed "test run" weekend was on errands, in the car, at the park with the baby. Which, for what it's worth, offered PLENTY of chances for this lens to sink or swim. Extreme ISOs at night, extreme contrast in bright sunlight, a baby that refuses to sit still for 5 seconds... what better way to test a lens?
Anyway, I like it. As I said, it's quirky. But those quirks can be used to its advantage. The color rendering SUCKS. Ok, it doesn't "suck", but I'm reminded of something Ken Rockwell wrote about a given lens's strengths and weaknesses, and knowing which tool to use in which situation, with managed expectations. So the color is.... "challenged." There are times, in PERFECT lighting and with a bit of PP push, that the colors can turn out awesome. That said, I'm perfectly happy to use this in full-time monochrome. It handles well in BW. It handles SURPRISINGLY well at night. I won't dare say it could replace my Canon FD 50/1.4, but it's small and light on an X-E1, so I could easily see it being my carry-around MF lens, if I'm feeling BW.
The flares are crazy. Like... batsh*t crazy. I tried a few times to shoot toward the sun to wrangle a few into placement for creative effect, but it's like herding kittens. Practice, practice.
Anyway, going to dump a bunch of photos in the comments, so I don't clog the main page. Here ya go.
Ok, sorry to ask such a rookie question, but...
On my Canon gear, there is a menu to adjust micro-focus. I am comfortable with the reasoning for such.
With mirrorless cameras, am I correct in assuming you would "never" need to do such an adjustment being that all focusing activity occurs at the sensor? Thus, this is a big advanage to mirrorless cameras/lenses?
Am I correct?
Here are some photos taken with the Canon 50L f1.2 on my Fujifilm X-E2. I was given the Fotodiox Pro Lens Adapter for Canon EF/Fujifilm X-Mount with built-in Iris Control. I am glad to be able to increase my camera's flexibility by being able to use my Canon lenses on my X-E2.
The lens had to be shot wide open, so the depth of field was super thin and was only manual focus. The built-in Iris Control on the adapter helped to increase the depth of field, but had the negative of really pronounced vignetting. The photos aren't super sharp (compared with the Fuji 35 f1.4), but that could be because my eyes are pretty bad and I am not very skilled with manual focusing. Nonetheless, I am more than pleased with the results.
I spent the morning with a bunch of kids learning about their cultural heritage. More here.
Is there a way to use a wireless trigger and a thumb grip at the same time? I currently use cybersync's with my Canon 580 series strobes. When I want to shoot OCF I have to remove the thumb grip which happens to use a small hex set screw to secure the piece down, becomes inconvenient for quick changes.
My other option to minimize change over time would be the use of a "screw less" thumb grip like Lensmate. Ideally it would be hardware piece with a pass through for the hot shoe mount.
I don't have any interest in using optically triggered transmitter/receivers.
Any feedback would be really appreciated.