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As those who have read one or the other of my lens comparisons on my Blog about vintage 50mm lenses, you might have realized that I'm a big fan of the Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar 50mm f/1.8.

Even though it's not the sharpest of my collection, nor has it the prettiest bokeh or can deliver the most natural colours, it's a hell of a lot of fun to work with, handles great and delivers a signature look no other lens could match so far.

There are a few things to consider regarding my copy of this lens:
1. It's a zebra from the 1963 - 1967 era, well before the Zeiss Jena company suffered a fall in quality due to the cold war and the shortage in quality material it brought along.
2. It has 8 aperture blades (which is not common in 50mm Zeiss lenses from that time, the Contaxes all only bring along 6 aperture blades, as do most other copies of the Pancolar.)
3. It contains radioactive glass. Which is pretty cool!
3.1 I even found someone citing a Zeiss rep from the Zeiss museum claiming that Zeiss never used radioactive glass in any of their optical products. (My GM-counter measurements beg to differ and even as a scientist I don't dare opening this lens without a big-ass acrylic shield inbetween me and the glass.)
3.2 the radioactivity caused the glass to acquire a yellow tint. I managed to remove the tint in my Takumar and Rikenon lenses and it improved a lot in the case of my Fujinon, but the Pancolar proved to be quite resistant to over 100 hours of treatment. I will give it another try soon, but I can live with it if it shouldn't be curable.

This is the lens with it's beautiful full-metal housing and the dreamy coatings.



Will add some more portraits in the next post.
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My name is Jurgen from the Netherlands and a big Fuji Fan.

I use multiple fuji's professionally and for fun.

my gear:

Fuji X-T1
Fuji X-t10
2x X-pro 1
Fuji X-e1
Fuji X100

Also i own most of the lenses

i hope to read some usefull tips and tricks and meet other fuji enthousiasts!


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Apologies for asking this old chestnut again but I’m stuck on the fence choosing between these two and would appreciate any opinions or advice from other users of either / both (or other X cameras for that matter). I’m much more interested in general usability and how people feel about their cameras then tech specs. Money is not too much of an issue (other than that I feel a bit more comfortable carrying a cheaper camera from a damage / theft POV). At least 50% of the use will be from a mountain bike, so having something smaller / lighter would be an advantage. Current thinking is to get the 27mm to start with for carrying the camera on my hip and then get some other lenses (probably primes – currently thinking 14 & 56 to start with) which I would carry in my backpack.

For reference, I’ve been using an X100s as my sole camera since it came out but now want to add something with lens flexibility. Here are the pros of each camera as I see them:-


- Nicer styling (don’t like SLR styling at all and I think RF style is much less intimidating to point at people)
- Just seems to have more “mojo” for me.
- Love the SS / ISO dial – I don’t like the feel of the click on the XT1 dials or the locking ISO dial on XT1
- Higher MP means more ability to crop or shoot different aspect ratios.
- Better high ISO performance
- OVF is really nice to have (though I very rarely use it)
- Joystick is great. Much, much better than the DPad on the XT1
- Buttons are much better placed for left eye shooter (nose / face is the way of the D-pad etc. on XT1 whilst looking through EVF)
- Higher MS shutter speed of 1/8000s (useful for shooting wide open in bright light without filters)


- Grip and weight balance of camera is much better than XP2
- 50g lighter (feels like a bigger difference than this)
- Smaller size: They are not that different really but the XP2 feels bloody massive to me, the XT1 feels like a perfect size for what it is.
- Tilt screen could be useful (I don’t really use rear screens but if it’s there, it might as well tilt and I’m sure I’d use it a fair bit on a tripod)
- Back button focus is in a perfect place, much better than the XP2 AFL Button, which is not only badly placed (IMO) but very recessed and will be hard to find in gloves (which I’m usually wearing)
- Better EVF, larger aftermarket eyecup helps with bright scenes and helps stop VF misting (left eye shooter)
- Cheaper

Thanks for looking, would be great to hear some opinions, cheers!
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Craiova - Centru Reflection

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I don't have a camera small enough for my new camera. I have narrowed it down to these two bags, I mainly want to carry just the XT1 with a lens attached and one other like a 56mm prime or maybe a zoom in the future, wallet, mobile, spare battery and maybe a passport etc. Anyone have any experience of these? Obviously one is way cheaper than the other but not a big deal though.
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Decided to do a selfie. Think I need a hair cut..:eek:

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x-pro2, 35mm f/2, Acros+G, cropped. H+2, S+2, Sh+1, NR-4
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Couple of notes from yesterdays shoot:

- (like I mentioned on other topic) White balance shifted without notice to top right causing pink tint on images
- Also, raw+fine was changed without notice to fine only. Luckily only few shots were made before noticing
- Q-button doesn't always work. Sometimes, after 1-2 shots you have to go to menu and back before it starts working again. And it's not because camera is writing data, led isn't blinking and I've waited 1-2 minutes after shots and it still doesn't work.

Firmware 1.01

Anybody else? *sigh* :(
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taken with E-M1 and 60mm lens

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wondering what method you use to test a used lens, to ensure its in good working order?
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Columbia Tower Club - Downtown Seattle. 76th Floor.

Decades ago I used to play most weekends with a few bands. R&B / Funk / Contemporary Jazz. Career got in the way of the music sadly.

Had the good fortune to get the green light to take care of entertainment at an awards banquet. Naturally I hired my friends. :D

[​IMG]Untitled by j c, on Flickr

Beautiful spot for an event. Was too busy playing and schmoozing to take many pics though...

[​IMG]Untitled by j c, on Flickr

[​IMG]Untitled by j c, on Flickr

X-T10 with 50-140 and 16mm
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In the spring of the past three years, robins have been building a nest on the downspout of my gutter and each time producing two youngsters. This baby robin had just left the nest for the first time and was working up its courage to try its wings.

X-T1 and Fujinon 55-200 at 200mm. ISO 800, 1/100sec, f/4.5. Hand held. The 55-200 is a fabulous lens!

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I see that Fuji will be putting the 100-400 + TC on sale for $1999 in the US and am considering pulling the trigger on it. I've upgraded my XP1 to the newest firmware for the 100-400 and would like to hear from those of you who own the 100-400 and use it on the XP1. I've already read about using it on the XP2 and have no interest at this point in upgrading to the XP2 so please keep responses to using the XP1 with the 100-400 and with the TC.
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It doesn't know, because it hasn't got there yet...

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I have a problem with owning way too many camera bags of all types and wanting the perfect setup for every situation. One area that has given me issues is airline travel. I always want to bring a laptop, water bottle, snacks, other odds and ends as well as all of camera equipment in a bag that fits under the airplane seat. For a while, I was using a messenger bag (Tenba Cooper 13 Slim, great bag btw) and it worked, but carrying that much gear was a pain and when I got my destination, I didn't want to lug around a bag that big.

Then I got fed up with traveling with the messenger bag and after searching for a good backpack, I settled on the PacSafe V17. It has room for a 13" laptop or hydration bladder, tripod or water bottle on the side, good size camera gear compartment with side access, good straps, built in rain cover and 2 more compartments for stuff. The additional anti-theft compartments were just extras and made it all the nicer. After an international trip already, it's worked out much better than a messenger bag.

This still leaves me with the problem of not having a small bag for the destination. Then I remembered that the camera insert in the backpack comes out and the drawstring enclosure can be opened to pull it out easily. Then I noticed that the insert was just about the same size as a Think Tank Retrospective 5...

So the bag in a bag concept works out rather well. When the Retro5 is in the backpack, it feels just like the insert is in there, just a little bit heavier. Everything else fits in the same. I think this will solve my traveling problems quite well.

In the last picture, all of the camera gear that is being carried is...

- Fuji X-T1 with Fuji 56mm attached (taking the picture, not shown)
- Rokinon 12mm f/2, Fuji 23mm f/1.4, Fuji 18-135mm, Fuji EF-X8 flash
- ThinkTank 2 battery case, Memory Card case (4), lens cloth case, LensPen in bag
- B+W 67mm Circular Polarizer 007 Nano coating and 62mm to 67mm step-up ring
- Amazon Carbon Fiber travel tripod
- Peak Design Leash, SlideLite and Capture Clip (attached to side of Retro5)
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Dear Fujifilm,
This request may not be a camera feature per se. However, may still work towards capturing market share "feature".
Will Fujifilm be able to tie up with capture One to have a scale-down Fujifilm version of the software? Hehehe.
Coming from the Sony camp, capture one has got a Sony only version that's $29 ..
Will this cause an exodus from other brands to Fujifilm cameras.. [emoji6]
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X-Pro2 / 35mm f/1.4 ISO 250
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I am a gear head, and I have perpetual GAS. Now that I've got that out of the way...

In the last 12 months I've gone from Fuji to a Sony A7ii kit. I'm very happy with the A7ii, and it's not going ANYwhere. Its a long-term affair. But - I have begun to want "something else". Something (a lot) smaller and lighter. Something with a fast lens in the 50-90mm range. Something that can be slung over a shoulder without a thought. I tried the Sony RX1R, and it is perfect in every way except no EVF, and 35mm is just too wide for my style. 75-85mm (equivalent) is my jam. I also tried a Sony RX100 Mk3, thinking it would slide into a pocket and go with me everywhere but, even though it is an amazing little camera, it was un-exciting for me.

Last week, I thought of going the complete OPPOSITE way, and was flirting with the idea of a Medium Format kit. I spent TOO many hours researching Hasselblads and, at one point, even settled on a Fujifilm GW670 III (6x7cm in a Rangefinder body - the "Texas Leica") but I eventually decided that it was all too much. Too big. Too complicated. More of a career than a hobby. Flirting done.

So... I'm back to the small, HQ kit idea. I kept looking at the Panasonic GM5 because if its miniscule size. It's quite a bit smaller than even the tiny Fuji X-A1, AND, it has a built-in EVF! I like to shoot with adapted lenses, and a Contax 50/1.4 with adaptor would be a nice fit. The GM5 doesn't have IBIS, which I think is important with the adapted lenses, but that's not a deal-breaker, and any current MFT body that has IBIS is too big.

Then I found this: The smallest, most powerful portrait combination under $1000 = the Panasonic GM5 + 42.5mm f/1.7

Panasonic GM5 and 42.5mm f/1.7 Power OIS lens. THIS is the TINY, powerful kit I've been looking for. The total package weighs 340g, fits in the palm, AND sports an 85mm (equivalent) STABILIZED f/1.7 lens. Slam dunk! But - will it give me the "look" I want? I used MFT for many years, and I think it will. At the time, I used the Olympus 75mm f/1.8, and I still love photos I took with that lens. 85/1.7 is even better! I was blown away by the photos in the linked I-R article. Shallow DOF and smooth OOF rendering. Sharp, good color and I love the (unusually) close focusing ability. I think I will be happy with this combo for my "other" kit.

I spent a little more time researching whether there will be a GM7 in the near future, and the consensus seems to be that the newly announced GX85 is the "GM7". But it is nearly as big as the GX8 or Pen F (or X-E2 or X100)!

So I picked up a new (black) GM5 for a very good price, and will initially use it with my Contax lenses while my bank account recovers. Then I'll get that 42.5 f/1.7! Stay tuned for images.
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Hi folks,

After an anxiously long wait, I have purchased the Fujinon lens XF100-400mm F4.5-5.6 R LM OIS WR.

My first impression was the pure satisfaction of owning one of the most highly awaited lenses of 2016, mainly due to it being the first Fujifilm’s lens made specifically for wildlife and sports photographers. However, as I waited for its arrival, I’ve been reading some negative comments about its AF performance, which is a point to deal with... CONTINUE READING HERE: Shooting Wild Raptors with the new Fuji XF100-400mm

You can check out my site here:




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I thought I'd start a thread to post examples of combining Film and Digital Kit. I'd be interested in seeing examples of film and digital cameras that people carry together, lenses that get swopped between film and digital bodies, and examples of images that people made of the same subject with both film and digital cameras. I often carry both a digital and a film camera with me. As can be seen from the photo here 35mm film cameras can be as small as compact digital cameras. The camera on the left is a Pentax ME-Super with the Pentax SMC-M 40mm f2.8 lens, which provides the same field of view as the 27mm f2.8 lens shown on the X-E2 on the right. The ME-Super allows shooting in Aperture-Priority Auto mode (very precise with it's step-less electronic shutter) and even has an aperture ring on the pancake lens (missing on the XF27mm). The Pentax has one of the biggest and brightest viewfinders ever made, providing crystal clear manual focus. I enjoy using both cameras equally and find great synergy in being able to switch between the AF camera with variable ISO and the ability to shoot exhaustively, and an MF camera that provides the extra dimension of using film and the optical SLR viewfinder.
Carrying two cameras like these two (with matching FOV lenses) provides something like the one-camera-one lens experience but with the ability to choose between digital files and film. Throw in a PK-FX adapter and you can even use the Pentax lenses on the Fuji. I often carry a rangefinder film camera alongside the X-Pro1.
ME Super & X-E2-1.jpg
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How do I ID which mount of my Meyer-optic Oreston 50mm F1.8 and I know they have two mounts and one for M42 and one for Exakta mount. Can some one tell me any difference between this two mounts.
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No Pressure, No Hurry...
DSCF9912 Canal boat approaching_edited-2.jpg
DSCF9917Stern view red green canal boat_edited-1.jpg
DSCF9899Pleasant day on canal_edited-2.jpg
DSCF9909No Hurry_edited-2.jpg
No Contest..

All SOOC jpegs, as I completely forgot to adjust to Fine + RAW but I'm wondering how much difference it would have made anyway, as the day was fairly dull and there were
no strong shadows to tease out detail from and few highlights to suppress.So pretty happy overall with Fuji's "Velvia effect" on the overall subdued colours in the landscape.
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April 28, 2016 5:45 am JST
Fujifilm hits record profit on strong instant camera sales
TOKYO -- Fujifilm Holdings logged a second straight year of record net profit helped by brisk sales of instant cameras in Europe and the U.S.

The company said on Wednesday that its group net profit rose 4% to 123.3 billion yen ($1.11 billion) in the year ended in March. Sales were flat at 2.49 trillion yen.

more here:

Fujifilm hits record profit on strong instant camera sales- Nikkei Asian Review
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I was visiting one of my brothers-in-law on his farm a couple of days ago and shot some pics of his cattle.

1. Fujifilm X100
2. Canon 7D + 70-300mmL
3. Canon 7D + 70-300mmL



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On my new X-Pro2, the Release/Focus priority setting seems to always work as if release priority was chosen? I mean, if I set the camera to focus priority it will still always fire when the shutter button has been fully pressed. I can press the shutter button, let go of it imeditately and the focus will continue to hunt back and forth a little bit and always fire, even when the picture is totally out of focus. If I hold the shutter button down until after the shutter has fired, the focus square is red, showing that the camera is aware the picture is out of focus, but fired anyway.

On my X-T1 however, the setting is respected. If focus priority is set the camera will not fire unless focus is acquired.

Is this a bug or a new "feature"?
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Had a search through the forums to see if anyone else experienced anything else before, but couldn't find anything...apologies if this has already been asked (or if there is a glaringly obvious solution).

On my XT1 (bought November last year) if I change the white balance settings or film simulation, any changes to these (apart from b&w or sepia modes) are not displayed in image previews in either the viewfinder or the screen i.e. I can still take photographs using different simulations or white balance settings, but these are only displayed in the final result, so it's proving somewhat difficult to judge white balance without taking a couple of images first and looking at the results as all images essentially look like an auto provia setting.

Any ideas how to fix? Or what the problem might be? Hoping it's just user error...

Thanks in advance
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I am quite new owner of the X-M1 and I've been trying to get the most of it in the field recently. I got through all the menus in X-M1 and I think I am already familiar with the most important features and also those less important as well.

So far I used Canon EOS400D. I used it with rather cheap lenses like the kit 18-55 or Tamron 55-200mm.
The EOS400D is now 10 years old so I don't consider it being a beast of autofocus, but still it gave me no trouble even when trying to re-focus on moving subjects. I decided to upgrade my camera (10 years must mean something in technology, right?) and I also wanted something lighter and smaller, which mirrorless cameras deliver.

Let me first explain what I am used to when working with Canon: with Canon I could half-press the shutter button to acquire focus, but if the subject moved around I could simply release the shutter button and half-press it again immediately to refocus. I can do it as many times as I want without any trouble and my old Canon simply re-focuses on the new distance each time I make a half-press.

Additionally, once the focus is set to some distance, and I decide to re-focus, the camera/lens makes only the small adjustments needed (when the subject did not move far away from where it was). And if the subject is still in the same distance, it just confirms the focus is set without any hunting or lens movement. The action of "half-pressing, releasing, half-pressing again" can be done without significant nor annoying lag as many times as needed.

Getting back to X-M1 with XF27mm: when I half press the shutter, the lens hunts back and forth every single time. Even in bright sunny conditions, the lens hunts for focus back and forth. To me, as a Canon user so far, it seems like if it was in complete darkness. I know that the focus is acquired quite quickly, but the hunting gets a bit annoying.

Even if the focus was set just a second ago and I release and then half-press the shutter button it still needs to re-hunt to actually get to the same point where it was just a moment ago - it doesn't simply confirm it is in focus (which I know it was), but repeats the hunting for focus.

Now the most annoying thing is that when I half-press the shutter button, then release and quickly half-press it again, the Fuji stops focusing (it just acts like if I didn't make that second half-press at all). I need to release and do it again so it can detect my half-press. Or I need to give a little time before half-pressing again just after releasing the first half-press. Certainly this takes time and is no good for capturing any moving subject.

So I thought I will give a try with focus mode set to continuous. Well, it keeps focusing without even half-press, that's OK, although I would expect to start focusing continuously when keeping half-press only. But the most crazy thing is that once that continuous focus locked focus correctly to given subject, I half-press the shutter button and then - to my surprise - the camera hunts again for the focus back and forth like if I was in normal focus mode. So why bother continuously acquiring focus moments before when it still needs to refocus by hunting when I make a half-press to take a shot? It makes no sense. It brings no help in pre-focusing...

Also the continuous autofocus stops operating when holding half-pressed. I would expect it to start operating when half-press, and be disabled when the shutter button is not touched at all. But oddly, it works differently.

I have the latest firmware in my X-M1: 1.40.

So my questions are:
1) Can anyone confirm it is the same with their X-M1 with XF27mm or is it some fault in my set and I should have it repaired?
2) Or maybe this is specific to the XF27mm lens itself?
3) Will I experience the same if I go with Fujifilm XC 50-230mm (which I am planning to buy)?
4) I know that my old Canon uses phase-detect as opposed to contrast-detect in X-M1, but could this be the reason for all this?
5) Is this also happening in other Fuji X cameras with Phase Detect focusing systems (which probably cost a fortune by the way)?
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Thought id have a go at making my own, not finished yet
Thoughts anyone? 20160503_192212.jpg
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Richard Bona in Budapest.
XT-10, XF 55-200




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You never know where you might find something interesting to photograph. Men's room, cantina near Tucson, AZ, x100

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I was shooting a ballet performance in a theatre with a 90mm lens at f2 with 1/1900 sec shutter speed and at ISO 6400. The situation, lights and action called for these settings. The silent electronic shutter had to be used.

Many of my images turned out with horizontal stripes across the entire frame. It was not the theatre lighting, it had to be something with the equipment used that caused these lines.
A crop of such an image is shown below.

Was it the electronic shutter ?
Did the 90mm go weird?


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18mm @ f/3.6

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Made possible by the XF100-400 and 1.4X teleconverter @ 559mm.

Egret and moon.jpg
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Hi everyone,

In AF-S single point, is it still possible to focus and recompose or does that work differently with the Fuji range of X cameras? Thanks for taking time to answer.
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My ongoing testing of how adapted lenses work on the X T1. This is the Nikkor 50 f1.2, wide open at its minimum focusing distance. Note the extremely shallow depth of field.

Nikkor 50-1.2.jpg
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  • Converts the fixed lens (28mm equivalent) to a 21mm equivalent without compromising optical performance.

X70-WCL Black $199.99
X70-WCL Silver $199.99
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This lens is not everyone's cup of tea, but I am liking it more as I use it.
Not many of these out there for sale. I don't think they were originally offered in the US (?).

The zoom range is perfect for me (36-52 EFOV on an APS sensor); constant f3.5 - I wish it were f2.8, but then it would be bigger, and it's already big enough for me because of the necessary adapter; lens entends only 3mm when zooming or focusing; hated the original hood, so I went to Ebay/China and dropped $5.

My big motivation here was that I truly hate large zooms. The only other zoom I own today is the Fuji 18-55, which is wonderful, but becomes a telescope at 55mm and I am not happy with that. If Fuji made a smallish 24-35/f4.0 zoom ..... dream on, Dave!

I'll post a stream of photos here, as I make them over time. If anyone else out there has this lens, feel free to drop some pictures here as you desire.

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The usual disclaimers apply: this is for USA; dealers will likely NOT publish these prices until May 22.

Note also the two lens kit for X-T10

May 22 thru July 2:



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