Has anyone purchased the Fuji X Passion Magazine?
Curious what it's like as the magazine + postage is almost $30aud....although they claim it's more like a book.
This is an iconic, very ancient market in the center of Porto, Portugal, nowadays there's more tourists than customers inside, but most sellers keep the same traditions as for the last decades. It's a mandatory place to visit when you go to this historical city.
Some shots done with the X100T and processed with Silkypix exclusively:
Dominic is 78 years old and is a true motorcyclist. Amongst his collection is a 1976 BMW R90 with an English sidecar, a late 1950s Aerial square four and this 1954 Sunbeam with a German Steil Sidecar.
Being a true motorcyclist all of Dominics bikes are regularly ridden even on days when its about 10C and pouring with rain.
BTW. Dominic is camera shy.
XT-1 with 10-24 OIS
For the past four or five years I have been shooting adapted lenses on mirrorless and something that I have noticed lately is that my preference as to which lenses I prefer changes depending on the body. For instance, when I use my NEX 5n I really like to shoot Minolta. They just seem work well together. I don't know if Sony buying Minolta's camera business has anything to do wth it but the Minoltas and the Sony seem made for each other. Part of it is that the NEX 5n has no EVF so I shoot from the waist and the larger lenses like Minolta (and Canon FD) give me a place to grab to stabilize the very small Sony body. I also think there is an argument to be made that the way certain lenses render may be a better match with the way some lenses.
On the X-P1 I am finding that I am choosing to use my Olympus OM lenses more (I don't even like OM lenses all that much). It's the combination of their amazingly compact size making for a light combo with the X-P1 and something about the way they render that seem to be a good match with the X-P1. I also find that my Konica 40 pairs up well with Fuji.
Of course YMMV.
I'm perplexed with my X100t.
I notice that the 'Face Detection Focusing' icon only shows up in the EVF but not the OVF. The OVF only displays the 'Focus Area' icon, weather I choose Face Detection or not. If so how am I to know if I've chosen Face Detection or Focusing Area while viewing thru the OVF? And more importantly is Face Detection focusing operational in the OVF mode?
X-T1 Ver 4.3
Usually my SD card is named Untitled, the files are usually in directory DCIM /100_FUJI
When I went to import them, the SD card had a different subdirectory - DCIM/101_FUJI
This happened after the last SD card format. I tried formatting again-- still 101_FUJI
It's been 100_Fuji ever since i got the camera.
I always format in the camera.
Any idea why the name change.
I was recently contacted by a writer I had met last summer at an opening for a show I was having. He is the environmental writer for the "big paper" here in Milwaukee. He has recently completed a book on the life and death of the great lakes due to invasive species. His book is off to the editor and they are working on a cover. He asked if I would be willing to allow one of my images to be used as the cover as well as wrap around the spine to the back. I agreed. I have also been contacted by the publishing house W.W. Norton The first run will be for 50000 copies worldwide distribution and english only. I have no idea what to quote and google is of no help. Any advice from you fine folks would be appreciated. FYI the image was shot with my trusty old X-Pro and 56mm
Took advantage of the current Fuji instant savings and got the 50-230 OIS at a great price. The one I received DOES NOT say "OIS II" on the box or the lens. I called Fuji to find out if the new vII's are labeled and was told the lens would say OIS II near the front element. Mine just says OIS
The tech I spoke with was not able to tell me what the part number or SKEW number is for the later version however.
I have searched in vain online and cannot find any retailer that specifically identifies what they are selling as OIS or OIS II
DOES ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE THE OIS II version of the 50-230mm??
If so, can you tell me the part/model number from the box?
Not sure if I should make such as fuss, but since the "old" and "new" versions are supposedly the same price, I dont know why it is so difficult to find the new one.
Not certain to understand the three modes that my X-T10 offers. When should I use the electronic shutter vis the mechanichal and what is the advantage of the combine mode?
Was watching this video, where Fuji Guy Billy hints that the EVF + processor is capable of being updated to a refresh rate of 120fps to approximately match the human eye (around the 15:10 mark). That's quite amazing.
I've never seriously considered the 300mm lens from Rokinon before since it's very slow but I've thought of a user for it -- on my tracking mount for nighttime shots. But I can't seem to find any real info on coma performance. Does anyone know how the center and edges perform for coma?
I looked at this lens for a while and placed an order (B&H) when the current promotion began. The lens, initially back ordered, arrived yesterday (Thurs 26 May 16) and I managed some thirty plus pix so far today. I severely like this item. Unfortunately for others, the lens is again currently back ordered at B&H. This is a gem lens that completes my Fuji gear collection (smile).
Why then did my wife catch me online this AM looking at more Fujifilm stuff?
Hey,just transferred from Nikon to xt1,my question is:why Focus assist in flash does not work when the flash is
On camera...I should buy some specific flash or it not work at all?
The new ISO dial on the XP2 doesn't bother me -- I just leave it in Auto most of the time -- but I know that it frustrates some users that they can't change ISO using a Function button and the rear dial.
So, I have come up with a small workaround that will please no one.
1. Set each of the three Auto-ISO Presets so they have the same Base ISO and Upper Limit*: e.g., I have the first Preset as ISO 400 for the Base, and ISO 400 for the upper limit. Preset 2 is ISO 800 for each of these, and Preset 3 is ISO 1600.
2. Now set the Function Button on the top of the camera next to the shutter speed dial to ISO Auto Setting. Set the ISO Dial itself to A for Auto.
3. When shooting, press the Fn button and use either the rear dial or the up-down arrows on the 4-way controller to choose one of the Presets, which effectively sets a fixed ISO, in this example I can choose 400, 800, or 1600. Because the limit is the same as the base, the ISO will not change.
*Note that you can't make ISO200 work with this, as the lowest Upper Limit is 400.
I am now putting on my flame-retardant clothing. Fire away.
...that to turn sound and flash OFF you choose the "Sound and Flash Off" menu and turn it "ON" but to turn sound and flash ON, you choose the "Sound and Flash Off" menu, and turn it "OFF."
This keeps biting me because every so often, it toggles without my help, and digging into the menus almost never causes me to realize this inside-out, double-negative menu choice is still there.
That is all! </rant>
Just received a new vintage lens - Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 135mm f3.5. Took a really quick portrait on the XT10 with bounce flash from the Fujifilm 20 flash. I really like the way the lens renders. Only AUD$120 in mint condition. Raw developed in Iridient Developer. What great legacy glass portrait lenses do you recommend?
This combo is not exactly lightweight but if you happen to be high up on a spectacular mountain railway the bright snow and large apertures available minimise motion blur with the high shutter speeds possible. None of these were taken at a speed slower than 1/2200 and all were shot from a moving train. Most importantly, on this Swedish/Norwegian train (The Ofotbanen) from Kiruna, Sweden, to Narvik, Norway, there weren't too many passengers and all the windows could be opened - nothing is more frustrating than those wretched internal reflections you only notice on play-back. OK so you're restricted to what can be seen from the train windows - but walking up to these places at a certain age isn't exactly an option...so seek out those rail timetables on the Internet, take that superb combo along and let the train do the hard work...
Lapporten Gap, Sweden 55mm f/2.8 1/4000 sec ISO-200
Rock above Rombakfjord, Norway 59mm f.3.6 1/2900 sec ISO-200
Frozen waterfall in Rombakfjord 30mm f/2.8 1/2200 ISO-200
Almost journey's end - Straumsnes Bridge over Rombak and Ofotfjord beyond
The Naval College at Greenwich:
1605_MoreNaval_019 by Ian, on Flickr
A more arty version:
1605_MoreNaval_047-Pano-Edit by Ian, on Flickr
A tilt-shifted pano of the Palace of Westminster
1605_Naval_095-HDR-Pano by Ian, on Flickr
And a postcard view of the Palace
1605_Naval_085 by Ian, on Flickr
First three all with a Canon FD 35mm tilt-shift lens, the last one with the Fuji 14mm all on an X-T1.
Thanks for looking
This is embarrassing, because I do not know what I hit.
The camera now shows a little yellow lock on the right side of the screen.
No matter which button I hit, other than 'Menu', gives me a big yellow lock in the screen centre.
How do I lock and unlock the camera?
There has been a lot of posts recently about which lens is better; 56mm, 90mm etc etc zooms or primes....But it seems that the 18-135 is fairly regularly ignored. Why??
So I am considering my second lens (after the 35mm f2) to go with my Xpro2 - and it seems that 18-135 could really work: wide to tele, water resistant and not so super expensive.
So why is it not "rated" amongst the top Fuji lenses?
Greatly for any feedback - positive or negative
Had a photo walk with my club through the historic village Heusden in the Netherlands. It was a rainy day and tried to get that feeling into the photo's
mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-43-59 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr
mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-42-00 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr
mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-24-37 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr
mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-17-36 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr
mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-13-38 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr
mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-09-48 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr
mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-07-16 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr
mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-19-56-20 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr
mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-51-12 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr
mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-47-52 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr
We took a trip to Weston-Super-Mare yesterday as the weather was superb, not too crowded and a really nice friendly summers day with everyone enjoying themselves.
Took the XP2.
i have bought x70 and it is a nice one.
But i found that after connecting it with my phone, i cannot focus by touching the screen on my phone
i mean there is nothing happened after i touched the screen in order to focus
(The other functions of the app worked fine for me though)
has everyone had the same problem as I do before? Is it the problem of camera setting causing the problem?
Thank you for your help!
I already have a PRO 2. But I've found some really nice price on T1 ($800 for graphite and $670 for black)
After trying my friend's T1, I found T1's EVF is soooo nice. I've wanted to try out some vintage manual lenses as well. I feel the bigger EVF gives better experience on manual focusing.
Lenses: 18-55, 35f2, a new 56f1.2 is on the way here. I've wanted to sell the 18-55 once I aquire a new prime lens.
What's your suggestions?
Has anyone tried Orientec Batteries as replacement? They are more cheaper than the wasabi.
Holla! New Fuji X user here. X-T10 to be exact. Hope to have new knowledge about fuji learn more about photography and meet new friends in the forum
In August I'm going on a 2 week expedition into some of the most remote parts of Borneo. It's a wildlife, environmental and small village orientated trip.
I'm wondering if anyone has taken and used the X-T1 in such an environment and how it has fared?
We all know that the 'weather proof' claims are a bit of farce as anything but a brand new X-T1 won't have door that closes properly. In anycase I do wonder if they suffer lots in such humid and likely demanding environments.
The lens's I have are the Zeiss 12mm 2.8 , 35mm 1.4, and 50-230 xc, which aren't weather sealed either (ie they match the body, haha).
My intention is too take all my Fuji kit as the above combo is fairly compact and light, but I'd rather not destroy the poor thing.
My other camera is a Nikon D750, but I only have a 70-200 2.8 lens for that. While I fell this combo is far more robust and could actually take a dip in a mud pit then a rinse off without drama, unless I purchase more glass, lens options are limited, and it's obviously a bit more bulky with a 2.8 zoom on it. The other plus is could almost do the whole trip on one battery, I'll have to buy 3-4+ spares for the Fuji to match the D750 in this regard.
I'd rather not take two camera's due to gear limits on the trip.
Received 2nd sample of Samyang 50mm f1.2 from other seller today. And it's also defective : (
My first sample was optically perfect, but I noticed strange white marks near the aperture inside lens and sent it back. Now I think it was good lens : )
Unfortunately the second sample has visible optical misalignment. It is harder to focus with it so decided to test using approach described on Lensrentals .
I've just downloaded Siemens Star Chart PDF and aligned camera with lens on heavy tripod targeted to it's center.
Samyang 50mm f1.2 - in focus (at f1.2). You can see that fringing is directed from upper left to bottom right
Samyang 50mm f1.2 - slightly unfocused (at f1.2). Diagonal fringing is more visible here.
One interesting thing. My first sample came with Quality Certificate card and SN sticker on it. So looks like first sample was properly tested and optically aligned.
But second sample does not have Quality Certificate - that's indicator that lens is not factory tested.
I also have Samyang 21mm f1.4, just tested it on same chart and there are no such issue. This sample also has Quality Certificate.
So in case you decide to buy Samyang/Rokinon lens, it's highly recommended to check if Quality Certificate is included.
It's also helpful to run this simple test to check the lens alignment.
i have just bought the 10-24 f4.
I can't try it until saturday but if a gently move the lens i can hear a rattle sound from inside.
No skratches in front or rear element.
I own tamron and nikon lenses with image stabilization and they also produce this sound but on the 10-24 is more pronounced.
Do you experienced that?Is it normal?
Thank you for responses
Meant to try out the X70 this evening but its 18mm was far too wide for the essential part of this sunset over Porthcawl and Swansea Bay. Glad I took the 50-140mm as well - at f/8 it kept the foreground reasonably sharp and was useful for the second shot of the sheep, which I could swear were suddenly fearless as if transfixed by the glow from the setting sun...