does anyone know a way to set the AF-L button on the back of the XT1 to only lock focus (mine currently focuses and then locks focus)
I wll be shooting the x100s and xt1 along side each other and would like to set them both up the same
Currently my x100s has the AF/AE button set to only lock focus... It doesnt focus at all, it just locks it.... I use a half press of the shutter let go and then hold down the AF/AE button to lock that focus in... I can then shoot multiple frames while holding the AF/AE button in and focus will not change....
With the XT1 i cant seem to work out if this is possible... Currently the AF button is actually working as a 'AF-ON' type button where it is aquiring focus and also then locking that focus... I am trying to se it up so all it does is locks focus and does not try to aquire focus
The thread about a possible (or maybe just wished for) X-Pro monochrome started me thinking about the ideal camera for me. It would be based on the X-T1 body and would have the best sensor available at the time (I'm not worried about pixel count but rather quality of results).
Now for the big differences. I've owned 5 digital cameras over the last few years and never used a program on any of them. I always set them up to operate as a aperture priority and let it go at that. I occasionally shot in manual mode as well, so I'd want this new model to offer aperture priority, shutter priority and manual mode. Exposure compensation would also be necessary along with some obvious things like ISO and depth of field preview. This would clean up the back of the camera, and I could even do without the monitor on the back.
This would simplify the manufacture and hopefully bring down the price some. I even have a name for it. Call it the X-T R. Anyone else find this of interest.
I really like what can be done in camera of Fuji
After a week of fiddling around at home I went out to my pair of shoots this past weekend with the idea that I would dabble in the use of the X-T1 but probably not use it 100% as I didn't buy it for studio sessions, which is what these were. But hey, gotta give it a whirl right?!
So with my bag full of my Profoto lights and Nikon full frame gear my little X-T1, 35mm f2.0 WR, and 50-140mm f2.8 tucked into a few empty holes I set out to create some art. None of which will be posted here because I did some art nudes and flour shots. The flour shots would probably be fine... but check my flickr. Luke Kowand for the sets.
So on Friday night after a long day of computer work my wrists and arms were killing me. My doctor suspects some form of tendinitis or arthritis is plaguing me. So I was looking forward to using the smaller kit. A little scared I would miss the resolution.
here are my bullet point findings
I was amazed at how much easier than handling of this camera was on my body. For my flour shoot I started with the Nikon D810, and my arms and hands weren't bugging me very much, but I wanted that 1/250 sync speed and high resolution. I very quickly swapped over to my X-T1 for the remainder of the shoot and never looked back. I don't know if it was honeymoon feelings or what...but it was so very comfortable to shoot with.
- Profoto Nikon TTL remote works! but only fires the lights, does not allow TTL control or high-speed sync
- The skin tones and colour in general are just.... beyond amazing. Wow. I've done no colour grading in post to any of the Fuji files. I did spend an hour trying to get my Nikon files look similar in colour...and failed
- 1/180x sync speed was tricky to get used too, but did work.
- I did crank up the sync to 1/250 and only got banding on a select few shots... found that odd
- what a joyus camera to work with.
That being said...
- AF was struggling quite a bit. Just initial lock on was tricky for it.
- Wish there was a way to burst fire and flash at the same time. My light can handle it!
- Being able to move the AF point in dual view/manual focus mode would be awesome. I use this with Back-button AF and I'm rarely targeting the center of the frame doing portraits. I'm also not a fan of focus and recompose as I find my focusing isn't as accurate or sharp.
- My copy had a pair of hot pixels. Since exchanged for another body.
I tried a few different AF methods. And really both shoots had their own challenges. The fine art session there was so much limited light in there that it was struggling to figure out what to focus on. I was using single shot mode and tried face/eye detection and manual AF point selection. manual AF point selection performed the best. I did try back-button AF in manual mode but it wasn't giving me the sharpness I wanted. The 35mm f2.0 WR was substantially better at keeping focus and finding it quickly.
The flour shoot I stayed with the test AF point selection mode and for the most part it worked. Until I started wanting to capture movement. I tried the AF-C mode and it got better. But the AF back button and recompose was working the best here. Especially for when I had the model spinning. The distance from the models and the relatively deep f-stop of 16 really helped keep things sharp. I used the 50-140 exclusively for the flour session.
I got another session tomorrow which is more of a high-fashion, magazine style editorial that I'll be shooting. I'll see how it performs for that, I'm expecting good things.
I picked up a case from "Canadian Tire", the Maxximumm waterproof case medium. It's like a Pelican but a lot cheaper ($70 CAD) and has the pluck foam. Lots of room for extras in here! Gonna have to get a few more lenses and another body m'thinks.
Yesterday I traveled north for several hours to photograph the Adirondack Mountains transitioning from fall to winter. The day was mostly overcast with a few very brief periods with the sun breaking through the cloud cover. Ice is starting to form over the small bodies of water. There were pockets of light snow here and there. Its was cold but a good time shooting with my brother-in-law.
A few more images to follow in a this post.
If you have any interest in how movies are made you need to watch this.
All the best to @Arjay today.
Today we have just launched the latest edition of Capture One! Capture One Pro 9.
Capture One Pro 9 Imaging Software | PhaseOne
We have built on existing features and improved the ones you know and use daily. Some highlights include..
- New Processing Engine
- New Color Editor Interface with the ability to create masks from Color selections
- LUMA Curves - i.e Luminance adjustment only with the power of the curve tool
- New brushing tools with Flow and Airbrush and easy straight line brushing.
- Curves now included as a Local Adjustments
- Keyword Library Manager and new Keyword tool
- Vastly improved rescaling engine
- Capture One Colors for DNG files
On a financial note each Capture One licence now gives you THREE installs. So you can cover your location system, office / studio system and home system. Even more value.
Here is an overview of what’s new…
Here is how the new Color Editor Works..
Here is the new Keyword Tool and Library in action…
On a personal note I will say that I didn’t look much into the new behaviour of the Contrast and Brightness sliders in the new processing engine at first. But I really must say it makes this rather rudimentary tool something special. Adding contrast to an image can often be a tough task, especially if you want to retain colors and saturation and not block up the blacks and ruin the highlights. The new processing engine does a great job of adding contrast in a subtle way. If you want even more control, then you have the Luma curve and the saturation slider at your disposal.
No doubt there will be some responses of “what about xyz tool??”. Remember, 9.0 is just the start and there is always more to come. Don’t forget throughout the life of Capture One 8 we added new features and tools, for example the Color Balance tool.
Download a 30 day trial today…
Upgrade your existing Capture One Pro 7 or 8 licence…
Buy Phase One software
There are a series of Webinars for Capture One Pro 9 in English, German and Japanese - have a look on our new webinar page..
Phase One Webinars
Could anyone recommend me please best in camera settings for JPEG? Mostly i shoot in raw but sometimes i want best quality JPEG's out of the camera.
Now i have something like this:
Highlight tone -2
Shadow tone -1
Noise reduction -2
What should i change?
By the way, i am user of Fuji X-M1.
I see in the various rumour sites that Samsung is perhaps getting out of the camera business, but have an announcement of some kind at 2016 CES in January.
Reading between the lines, I wonder would the NX1 sensor not be a good fit, and available for the new Fuji cameras rumoured for next year ?
That sort of resolution behind some of the well regarded Fuji lenses would be pretty intriguing..
We went to Portsmouth last Saturday:
(also posted in this thread: Few new pictures taken with X Pro-1)
Belgrave is the end of the train line hence the title. There are some interesting people in my neck of the woods.
X100s and X-T1
Street Art in public in the middle of the day
One good turn deserves another (former) buddy! Yes I see your Facebook posts
You meet the nicest people with Canons
If anybody is interested the rest are here on Flickr
I noticed yesterday when out in my local city centre with the 35mm that I felt it wasn't long enough and I wanted just that little bit more reach but still the benefits of a prime.
I already have the 50-140 which I love and know how good it is for both telephoto action and portraits, but it tends to only come out for specific things/tasks. It's not my go to for carrying all day 'just in case' lens. I've not played with the 56mm yet but I think it might fit what I'm looking for. What do you all use it for? Primarily portraits or do you take it out and about too? I know the 90mm is raved about, but I think I'm covered having the 50-140.
Is the 56mm much bigger than the 35mm 1/4? I don't want something massive hence why I've never bought the 16-55.
Hanukah is getting close! More here.
Actually the title should be 25 Kislev. Sorry.