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So I received my Fotodiox M39 to Fuji X adapter several days ago and just today received an early M39 13-blade Helios 44. I screwed it onto my Fotodiox adapter and then mounted the lens/adapter onto my XP2. Nothing is in focus at any distance even at f16.

Is there a setting or some other adjustment that I'm possibly forgetting about either in-camera or with the adapter or even lens? I doubt it as it still should focus. I'm hesitant to return the lens as it's an expensive and slow journey back to Russia. Any help would be appreciated.
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The plowing match and farm show is on here. As un-oficial photographer I am free to document whatever I like. The 18-135 is very useful in this venue.

Old Time Steam Threshing.jpg
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FUJIFILM X-T2 has further enhanced the movie function of the X Series by enabling 4K movie shooting. Learn the behind the scene story of the 4K vide shooting.​

Continue reading...
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I assume there's no such thing on the original X100? I had the X70 temporarily and it did. I just got the X100 so I'm playing with it and that's the first thing that jumped at me. I also tried going by the histogram but that didn't show me the true exposure when reviewing an image.

Am i missing something or any work around other than shoot, review, adjust, shoot again?
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Ok, here is the next lens in my recent vintage lens collection........The mighty Super Takumar 135mm f3.5.
I have to say, this lens is "Super", and its small, very small, only 3 and half inches, only half inch
bigger than my fuji xf 18-55mm. Of cause with the adaptor connected, that adds another inch and a bit,
but still small. IQ wise this lens is top notch, its sharp, even wide open, and it looks the biz, on the
end of my XT1. I paid £25 for this lens, with case, and metal hood, and i am more than happy.
Below is pic of the lens, and a few shots taken today.
Takuma plus case1.jpg beachcrop5 blackbwhite2.jpg beachcrop7blacknwhite.jpg beachcrop2.jpg beachcrop4.jpg
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In the historic downtown Savannah. I liked the b&w treatment on this one. I used to think I would want a tilt-shift but I think I like working angles and distortion better.

Cathedral of St. John
by Neil, on Flickr
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The Great Blue Heron waited patiently for several minutes for a fish to swim near enough. Then with a lightning fast jab it stabbed its sharp beak into the ocean. Finally, with dinner caught, it waded out of the water to enjoy its meal. Photographed at Roberts Creek, Sunshine Coast, British Columbia.

Even at 1/250 with the 100-400 on my X-T1 the heron moved so fast on its spearing thrust that it was a blur.



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Battery is fully charged.
When I try to turn it on, nothing happens. I move the switch a couple of times (off and on) and still no power. I remove battery, put it back in
Sometimes it turns On. Sometimws it doesn't. Battery is inserted properly and batt cover is locked in place. Whats happening here? Thanks guys
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My son and brother in law fishing on Long Lake in Alpena, Michigan just after sunset. The moon was rising just over the lake.

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A street shot in Savannah. I thought this looked interesting. I'm curious to see what you all think. I like the guy's shirt, too: 12 reasons why handguns are better than women. lol. I don't agree but think it's funny. ;)

by Neil, on Flickr
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One of my biggest gripes with the X-E2 is the lack of an ISO dial and the existence of an exposure compensation dial. My mind just doesn't think in terms of exposure compensation, I'd much rather have an ISO dial rather than an exposure compensation dial. Any time my exposure compensation has been not at zero was an accident and was only discovered after taking a picture.

I've preordered an X-T2 for a lot of reasons, but a big one being the ISO dial. The exposure compensation dial appears to be the only dial on the top of the X-T2 without a lock. Why was this done? Is there any other way to lock or disable this dial (like maybe via a menu setting)?
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Taken in the valley of Connecticut. Lemme know what you think.
Two Bikes Under Bridge.jpg
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I am using X-E2 with the XF35mm f2. Both have been updated to the June 9th firmware (4.01 and 1.01). While recording video, I cannot figure out how to make the camera focus consistently.

While in M focusing mode with AF-L configured to ON while pressing, the AF-L button doesn't seem to do anything. The focus area is set in the center and I've put different subjects in that area at different distances. Turning the focus ring seems to do nothing.

While in C focusing mode with the subject already in focus, starting a recording causes a refocus on the subject, it goes out of focus then after a second it comes back in. Panning away from the subject it will refocus, then panning back to the original subject it will not refocus no matter how long I sit and wait (all the way up to the 14-ish minute time limit). AF-L button seems non-functional here as well. Turning the focus ring seems to do nothing.

While in S focusing mode it seems to behave the same as in C mode.

Does the camera lock focus while recording video? Are there more specific reasons for when focus is locked out? Are any other settings locked out while recording video? It seems like aperture and shutter speed are not locked, but I didn't do exhaustive testing. Auto ISO while in video mode seems to work pretty well. Also, is it possible to get focus peaking in the video preview?
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Almost set on returning back to Fuji , saw a Fuji xt1 used for a good price .

Any good sites to find used or refurbished lens at good price?

I looked at Fuji refurb site but out of stock currently
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Not used my Fuji for a few weeks, and went to use it at the weekend and saw a tiny black dot on the Viewfinder electronic lcd, doesn`t come out on any images or visable using back lcd or optical view finder, so not overly bothered by it but did think its strange how it got there?

Its not a dead pixel either.

Anyone else had this, i would get it sent away and cleaned off but rather not have the fujipulled apart just for that.
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X-T1 18-55 (must do something about a long Fuji lens but I did resist the temptation to grab the Nikon)

I hate to do it but you can see why it had to come down.


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First time there man oh man.... this place..... it's something else!

DSCF7835.jpg DSCF7852.jpg DSCF7879.jpg
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I was hoping to purchase a more complete manual for my Xpro 2. I'm debating between Phillips' The Complete Guide to Fujifilm's Xpro2 and Pfirstinger's book. I would really appreciate any advice from those who have read both manuals..

Thanks in advance!
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Canon 400mm f/4.5 FD lens on an X-E2. ISO 3200, 1/320 sec. f5.6, B&W+Y film simulation Jpeg.
Owl Again.jpg
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So, I found one for cheap online and ordered. Opened it, was in decent condition, optically some filming, maybe a spot or two of mould (?) but otherwise decent. And I was stoked to find it was the original version (Kiron)... but... I can't get it sharp no matter what. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but I can't for the life of me get it going. Maybe there's an issue, but it was from a camera shop that supposedly checks them out and ships 100% mechanically sound. Oh well, off to play some more.

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I need a remote to take long exposures (over 30 seconds).
It will only be used to open the shutter then shut it down on demand.

What is the difference between a wireless remote (e.g. Canon RC-6 for $10 in a generic version) and a wired (e.g. Canon RS-60E for $15 or so)?
The wireless seems a lot more convenient and it's cheaper so I must be missing something :)

And, can you confirm that the Canon remotes will work on the X-T1?

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X-T1 and 50-140mm

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16 shot panorama, 2 rows of 8 images. Fuji x100s, iso 200, f16, 6.5s with ND filter on.
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Cactus V6 ii HSS using the Godox Wistro AD-360 off camera & Godox V850 flash in hot shoe of Cactus V6 ii With the X-T10 at 1/4000. The first image is of the Godox Wistro AD-360 taken with the X-T10 @ 1/4000. I used the Cactus V6 ii HSS in hot shoe of the X-T10 , the Godox XT16 in the Cactus V6 hot shoe the Gdox XTR-16 plugged into the AD360 setting for the Cactus V6 ii Camera system is set as Fujifilm, Flash system is Nikon, flash profile is Auto Nikon. Once you've used the 'Learn function all you need to do is press the thumb wheel and it displays Forced HSS. Note thanks to Our fellow member KSG Photography for the setting for the Cactus V6 ii settings. The second image is taken with the Godox V850 in the hot shoe of the Cactus V6 ii using the X-T10 at 1/4000. Both the Ad360 and the V850 have to be set to HSS.




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