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no lark's insight unfortunately. -6c overnight so a lovely clear dawn but id really have liked some clouds

[​IMG]first light by damianmkv, on Flickr

[​IMG]frozen by damianmkv, on Flickr
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One taken yesterday of the rather frozen lakes at the back of my place, X-E2 and XC16-50mm MkII

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Due to cashback I caved in. Taking a little longer to get my distance sorted. But I think I'm happy

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I'm a little worried it can catch dust and will need cleaning as I keep my camera in a backpack most of the day.

What do you think?
Should I stop worrying and start loving the X100F? ;)
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Hello all,

I want to shoot a model through steamy glass (or is foggy the right expression?). I have no shower with a glass wall which would make it easy on one hand to get the glass steamy but on the other hand - if I find somebody that would let me use his bathroom- usually provides little space for the model and the photographer. (people I know don't have big villas though...).

My neighbors run a create agency, are cool guys, we work together once in a while and they're open for creative ideas. They have a big glass wall seperating two rooms and offered me to use there space for the shooting. The rooms are ideal but here's the big BUT: How can I get the glass wall steamy? I know that I can do some of the effect in post but that's not what I want. Thinking of the model putting her hands or her face against the glass, I would need days of fiddling in PS to create something realistic. BTW: I just want the steamy class not steam around the model.

We where discussing different options like putting a couple of pots with hot water on the floor right beneath the wall. Neither solution we discussed seems do be effective on a theoretical base in my eyes.
One thing came to my mind which are cleaning devices that produce steam. I have none and don't know how much steam they produce. I'm pretty shure that it depends a lot on the temperature of the glass. The cooler it is the easier it will get steamy. But I don't want to cool down the room to much, the model will be nude.

Does anyone have experience with this? My web search only brought up people having trouble with steamy windows...

I should add that I want to shoot the model not full body but just hip up.

Thanks for sharing your ideas,
Oli
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Although a little cluttered and confusing image the 56mm1.2R gave me a great memory of a wonderful place

Fuji X-Pro 1 56mm 1.2 f5

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The Hong Kong Skyline. The vantage point was the so-called "secret spot" in Luggard Road. Had to hike for 20 minutes and battle the freezing temperature to reach this spot.

X-T1, 10-24

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Hi guys, I took this image of Central, Hong Kong during a recent trip. This was just minutes after sunset to catch the first minutes of the blue hour. In total this image is composed of 12 different exposures for the light trails and the highlights.

X-T1, 10-24mm

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I have been ill but was determine to get some more images of the last ice before the rain takes it all away. These are the first four but I have more colorful ones.
I'm very glad my XT1 is weather proof as it came down at times. During which I would camp out in my car and waited.

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I am planning out a roadmap for a photo kit. I may be going into the Peace Corps at the end of the year and want to get an idea on an ideal kit to have. Obviously my finances available may change.
My current line up:
x-pro 1
14mm
35mm 1.4
7d mark II
Canon 400 5.6

It's a very limited set up right now. Because of some changes in my life I got away from any serious photography for a couple years. I do like the x-pro 1 but it has it's limitations. The 7d mark ii is new and I got it with the 400 for wildlife, specifically birding and wasn't confidant the fuji system was up to it yet. I already had the Canon lens and upgraded the camera.

I like to shoot street, landscapes, and photography. Going into the peace corps would lean towards a travel photographers kit. Compactness is important but quality is very important. To get a well rounded kit I was thinking of adding the new 23mm f2 and the upcoming 50mm f2, both for the price savings over the faster versions and the size and weight as well as the WR. I also would love to get the x-t2 for better performance and WR. If I do that I am thinking of converting the x-pro 1 to IR for fun. That set up with my current stuff would cover a lot of street and travel use.

I think I would also like a macro lens. Since the current fuji macro isn't a "true" macro I was thinking the new 80mm macro would be good. But I have also considered using the fuji for street and landscapes and the canon for wildlife and macros. I know that may seem weird to some.

I really just want to get some advice on how people utilize a kit for different purposes. I know my wants and needs are a little vague but since I only have experience with the kit I have, other than shooting an x-t2 in a store for about 5 minutes I don't have a ton of hands on experience to steer me one way or the other.
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I've been having a great time roaming the streets at night with my X-T10, EOS LTII and K-mount Pentax SMC 50mm 1.4. But I have to be careful, because if I focus too far away, the rear element of one collides with the front element of the other. For street work, this is generally not a big issue, but I'm thinking about a replacement, for safety's sake. The obvious and affordable suspects are the Pentax-M 50mm f/1.7 (because the sensor can't go any faster than an effective f/1.1 anyway) and the Takumar 55mm f/1.8 and these will certainly get tried quite soon.

But I was also considering the C/Y Zeiss 50 Planars (1.4 and 1.7), their close QBM relatives in the Rollei and Voigtlander lines (1.4 and 1.8) and their C/Y cousins the Yashica ML 1.4 and 1.7. There's lots of opinion online about their relative merits, but very little about whether they collide with the front element of an EOS LTII. All except the Yashicas are said to have issues with the mirror of a Canon 5D, but the only documented evidence on the LTII is that the Yashica ML 1.7 is apparently OK.

So two questions:
(i) Can we deduce anything (one way or the other) about EOS LTII compatibility from all the well-documented facts about lenses and full frame mirrors?
(ii) Can forum members fill in any of the gaps from their experience? It seems plenty of people have tried these components at different times, there's just no clear story emerging about which ones worked together and which did not.

Thanks for any insights!
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I can't seem to find any amount of substantial information or comparisons for the two bit depths for cameras. Just wondering if someone smarter than I or more experienced in the matter could provide a better explanation of the actual differences between the two.
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As a new XT-2 owner I am building my lens collection. Just got a used 14mm and today had a chance to shoot with it outdoors. Wow what a gorgeous lens. I am really going to enjoy this one.

David
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Since its a touch screen and 3", is this the same screen sizewise as on the X70? Be a big help to use the same screen protectors!
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What is the difference between the two batteries. I'm using an X-Pro2 camera? Is it worth $10 more for the newer battery?
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I’m a volunteer photographer for several local non-profit organizations. This past week I was asked to shoot a Celebrity Chef event with 40 local ‘celebrities’ and approx. 500 in attendance. I used the X-T1 and X-T2 with the 16/1.4, 35/1.4, 56/1.1 and my newly acquired Rokinon 12/2 – I was able to purchase that a month ago on one of those Amazon quick deals ($239 USD). At the cookoff, it was very crowded, and while I did get a few shots of the chefs during their preparation, I wanted to get a few different shots from a higher angle. I put the 12 on a monopod and used the self timer and was able to get a few shots from a much higher angle.

I did not pay as close attention to my settings as I should have as I did have a depth of field problem with some of the wider angle shots of the entire crowd. Hyperfocal at f2 is around 12 feet, but I thought perhaps that some of the raised shots would be closer than 6 feet (1/2 hyperfocal) ….

Here are a few examples – including one of the shots where you can see the DOF dropoff…. For fun I’ve also included a shot of a young child who obviously doesn’t like his parent’s food. (taken with the 35) …. Also, had another lesson learned: I was able to sample a few of the offerings, which included a nice sloppy pulled pork. I noticed in post processing that a few of my images were blurry on the left side … thought perhaps I had a lens problem – well I did – was smeared with bbq sauce..... lesson learned ....either don't eat during a shoot, or be sure to check your equipment more often. Image00040.jpg Image00036.jpg Image00035.jpg
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✌️having been born and raised in the south east US you would think I'd know better.

Here are a couple birds I shot handholding my xt2+leica 400/5.6 in provia (standard) last Saturday morning in my backyard.

Stoked to go out and shoot this weekend.

Kind regards.

x

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Final preparations are underway in St. Petersburg's Bayboro Harbor as the newest addition to Sea Shepard's fleet, the M/V Jules Verne, readies for her first campaign. Formerly the USCG Block Island, this decommissioned Coast Guard Cutter is slated to engage poachers off Costa Rica's Cocos Island.

[​IMG]M/V Jules Verne by David Jones, on Flickr
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So, not much talk about this camera. I'm not surprised as the x-T10 when announced went down like the proverbial lead balloon on this forum.

I like my x-t10, admittedly I bought it as a low cost alternative to the x-T1, so I'm very interested in x-T20 (and I'm having to bat off the GAS).

Whilst the "big news" with the x-T20 seems to be 4k video! That is great, but looking at the specs, there is more for me to get excited about.

The x-T10 is more of a " crippled x-T1 in a smaller package", whilst the x-T20 seems to have been promoted closer to an " x-T2 in a smaller package". Sure it doesn't have the all the X-T2 features, but the x-T20 gets the same processor, new focus system, lossless compressed RAW, similar (if not same) buffer for continuous shooting (one of the major cripplings of the x-T10!), ACROS film simulation and obviously the new sensor.

I've not yet read whether it has the lower blackout periods as the x-t2 - but using the same processor, I would have thought so!


Some times the simple things can be the most pleasing.... I like how they have replaced the awful movie record button with a standard fn button and added the movie mode to the drive mode dial. It should have been like that on the x-T10 and I've never understood how it wasn't picked up when developing and testing the camera.
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I generally don't like to use guidelines as I like an unobstructed view of my subject. However, they are useful when some part of the subject, a building or the horizon, has to be perfectly aligned vertically or horizontally. For this reason, I find I'm toggling them on and off very frequently.

The problem is that I haven't found a way to do this easily with the X-T2. I have added the "Framing Guideline" menu item to My Menu, but that allows me to choose the type of guideline, but not to disable them.

To turn them on and off, you need to go to SETTING MENU -> SCREEN SETTING -> SCROLL TO 2ND PAGE -> DISP. CUSTOM SETTING -> FRAMING GUIDELINE. I have not found another way to do it.

Has anybody found a shortcut for this?
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Mainly a frequent lurker rather than poster, still loving my X100T. Hats off to Fuji though, for releasing some great looking camera's, the F looks fantastic. I've read lot's of positive reviews in the last 24 hours, good stuff.

But one thing now bothers me - when Fujifilm release the next iteration of the X100, what will they call it, the X100F mark2, X100Fii, X100Fs?

Also, a gratuitous photo I made a few days ago in chilly Prague.

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I'm not a professional photographer. Sure, I've made a few bucks here and there doing photography, but my main source of income is decidedly un-glamorous - I do construction. Filthy dirty work most days, and rarely involves creative thinking. Or much thinking at all. It could be described as "uninspiring", but the prefix, "un" usually denotes the absence of something, where, I lately I feel like the work I do is actually the *opposite* of inspiring. Like... it actively destroys inspiration. I believe the term "soul crushing" applies.

Whatever, it pays the bills and I have more than enough going on - raising a toddler and in the process of moving, to name two things - to take on a career change anytime soon, so it'll have to do. Photography and parenting have been fulfilling my need for a creative outlet, but lately I'm almost too exhausted to take photos. I've literally brought a camera (ok, let's be honest - TWO cameras, one film, one digital) to work with me for well over a year now. These past few months, I'm lucky if I pop off two frames by the time I'm home. 80% of my recent work has been shot from the driver's seat of a car. And not always stopped at a red light, or using auto-focus, mind you.

So.... what's the point of this rant? OH YEAH!! So, the missus and the kiddo took the car to her mom's house, so I've been taking the bus and/or subway to work. The first couple days, I lugged my camera bag (complete with an extra-large ziplock bag to keep the dust at bay while working, but... same story. Barely shot a thing. This morning, I had this thought that I should just say "screw it" and leave the camera(s) at home. But habits are hard to break, and along they came. A Pentax MX and a Fuji X-E1. A CZJ Flektogon 35 and a Takumar 55. A roll of cheapo Fujicolor 200 and an 8 gig card. Just in case. I remembered something Ira Glass once said about soldiering through those times when you feel like your art is just crap ("...because you still have good taste" and headed off to this never-ending sh*tsccape of a rehab job we're trapped in.

We finished up early and my coworker took off. I washed up and decided to take the long way to the subway. Threw a strap on the Fuji/Tak combo and... lo and behold... I started seeing things. Things which called to be captured. Shapes and movement and color and texture. Faces which hid secrets and shared stories. Here's a smattering, including a #NODAPL protest I happened upon (true story) and another random guy with an X-E1.

Thanks for reading.

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Just had to share Palle Schultz's X-T20 review!
His vids are well worth a look!


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The X-T1 sits next to it. Lovely and efficient. Works well with aging eyes, shares its goods on my phone, and tilts its screen in all manner of accommodation with eagerness to please.

The Ricoh GR is next to it. A friendly, true grab and go companion. Sharp, light, fun, small-but-big and so capable. Better at pictures than me.

And then the unobtainable film cameras from my youth - Nikon, Mamiya, Voigtlander, Retina, Olympus (love them), Canon - that were bought with a wink for pennies on the dollar that I get along with oh so well - as I knew we would as film has a life unto itself and is so forgiving - that stare at me with an imploring, please-choose-me-I'm-beautiful-and-analog look.

Yet, there that X-P1 defiantly sits. It refuses to be sold - or mastered - or not feel good in the hand - or look bad with brassing, thumb grip and splotchy touchup paint - or slow-down epistemology. It laughingly says, "Told you I was too much." Still a siren that demands to be chosen first.
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I’m sure most of us own some sort of vintge stuff, whether it’s camera gear, audio equipment, collectibles, cars, or whatever. So, show us what you got! I’ll start out simple...a lava lamp, ages old.

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XT-1 10-24
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So this is going to be quite the random question.

Does anyone know where to get the little leather eyelet protective covers that came with the x-e2? My searches have come up empty.
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A couple of pics taken in 2005 with a Leica R4s and 35 mm and 90 mm sumicrons and rather poorly scanned from slides. Nonetheless I do like the composition and the overall mood of each. The Palouse is in Southeastern Washington State and is a photographers' nirvana.

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Hope it's the right forum and my question wasn't already answered in the past. I did a search but didn't see anything matching my question... I have a few of these batteries since I bought GS X-T1. One battery stopped charging while the other 3 are fine. After years with Nikon batteries, I've never dealt with dead ones. What would you do, dispose of it? Call Steve at Fuji? Thanks for your input!
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Added the Fuji 23mm f/2 to my lens lineup. More on my blog.

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Just a few pictures of my trip to München I wanted to share: _DSF1544.jpg _DSF1565.jpg _DSF1677.jpg
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Heading west on Rt. 20 I found this train, car and truck. The man that owns this land died last year. He liked collecting old stuff. He moved a diner onto his property and built an old general store/museum along with other old stuff.
Train, car and truck. A few more photos to follow.
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X-Pro 1 56mm 1.2 for me the King of Lenses

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OK, OK, I know the answer--it depends on whether you feel like you need to change lenses, what you shoot, etc.
But given that I already have an X100S (and an X100, for that matter), and since the price points are similar for the X-T20 kit and X100F (and also since I suspect my Luigi case isn't going to fit the X100F well, so I need new accessories anyway), what do the folks here think is a good choice? The F seems to have a lot of things I really want--better AF, better film simulation, of course better sensor, but then the X-T20 has those as well...
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Using my Fuji X100S

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