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On my new X-Pro2, the Release/Focus priority setting seems to always work as if release priority was chosen? I mean, if I set the camera to focus priority it will still always fire when the shutter button has been fully pressed. I can press the shutter button, let go of it imeditately and the focus will continue to hunt back and forth a little bit and always fire, even when the picture is totally out of focus. If I hold the shutter button down until after the shutter has fired, the focus square is red, showing that the camera is aware the picture is out of focus, but fired anyway.

On my X-T1 however, the setting is respected. If focus priority is set the camera will not fire unless focus is acquired.

Is this a bug or a new "feature"?
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Had a search through the forums to see if anyone else experienced anything else before, but couldn't find anything...apologies if this has already been asked (or if there is a glaringly obvious solution).

On my XT1 (bought November last year) if I change the white balance settings or film simulation, any changes to these (apart from b&w or sepia modes) are not displayed in image previews in either the viewfinder or the screen i.e. I can still take photographs using different simulations or white balance settings, but these are only displayed in the final result, so it's proving somewhat difficult to judge white balance without taking a couple of images first and looking at the results as all images essentially look like an auto provia setting.

Any ideas how to fix? Or what the problem might be? Hoping it's just user error...

Thanks in advance
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I am quite new owner of the X-M1 and I've been trying to get the most of it in the field recently. I got through all the menus in X-M1 and I think I am already familiar with the most important features and also those less important as well.

So far I used Canon EOS400D. I used it with rather cheap lenses like the kit 18-55 or Tamron 55-200mm.
The EOS400D is now 10 years old so I don't consider it being a beast of autofocus, but still it gave me no trouble even when trying to re-focus on moving subjects. I decided to upgrade my camera (10 years must mean something in technology, right?) and I also wanted something lighter and smaller, which mirrorless cameras deliver.

Let me first explain what I am used to when working with Canon: with Canon I could half-press the shutter button to acquire focus, but if the subject moved around I could simply release the shutter button and half-press it again immediately to refocus. I can do it as many times as I want without any trouble and my old Canon simply re-focuses on the new distance each time I make a half-press.

Additionally, once the focus is set to some distance, and I decide to re-focus, the camera/lens makes only the small adjustments needed (when the subject did not move far away from where it was). And if the subject is still in the same distance, it just confirms the focus is set without any hunting or lens movement. The action of "half-pressing, releasing, half-pressing again" can be done without significant nor annoying lag as many times as needed.

Getting back to X-M1 with XF27mm: when I half press the shutter, the lens hunts back and forth every single time. Even in bright sunny conditions, the lens hunts for focus back and forth. To me, as a Canon user so far, it seems like if it was in complete darkness. I know that the focus is acquired quite quickly, but the hunting gets a bit annoying.

Even if the focus was set just a second ago and I release and then half-press the shutter button it still needs to re-hunt to actually get to the same point where it was just a moment ago - it doesn't simply confirm it is in focus (which I know it was), but repeats the hunting for focus.

Now the most annoying thing is that when I half-press the shutter button, then release and quickly half-press it again, the Fuji stops focusing (it just acts like if I didn't make that second half-press at all). I need to release and do it again so it can detect my half-press. Or I need to give a little time before half-pressing again just after releasing the first half-press. Certainly this takes time and is no good for capturing any moving subject.

So I thought I will give a try with focus mode set to continuous. Well, it keeps focusing without even half-press, that's OK, although I would expect to start focusing continuously when keeping half-press only. But the most crazy thing is that once that continuous focus locked focus correctly to given subject, I half-press the shutter button and then - to my surprise - the camera hunts again for the focus back and forth like if I was in normal focus mode. So why bother continuously acquiring focus moments before when it still needs to refocus by hunting when I make a half-press to take a shot? It makes no sense. It brings no help in pre-focusing...

Also the continuous autofocus stops operating when holding half-pressed. I would expect it to start operating when half-press, and be disabled when the shutter button is not touched at all. But oddly, it works differently.

I have the latest firmware in my X-M1: 1.40.

So my questions are:
1) Can anyone confirm it is the same with their X-M1 with XF27mm or is it some fault in my set and I should have it repaired?
2) Or maybe this is specific to the XF27mm lens itself?
3) Will I experience the same if I go with Fujifilm XC 50-230mm (which I am planning to buy)?
4) I know that my old Canon uses phase-detect as opposed to contrast-detect in X-M1, but could this be the reason for all this?
5) Is this also happening in other Fuji X cameras with Phase Detect focusing systems (which probably cost a fortune by the way)?
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Thought id have a go at making my own, not finished yet
Thoughts anyone? 20160503_192212.jpg
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Richard Bona in Budapest.
XT-10, XF 55-200

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You never know where you might find something interesting to photograph. Men's room, cantina near Tucson, AZ, x100

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:)

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I was shooting a ballet performance in a theatre with a 90mm lens at f2 with 1/1900 sec shutter speed and at ISO 6400. The situation, lights and action called for these settings. The silent electronic shutter had to be used.

Many of my images turned out with horizontal stripes across the entire frame. It was not the theatre lighting, it had to be something with the equipment used that caused these lines.
A crop of such an image is shown below.

Was it the electronic shutter ?
Did the 90mm go weird?

TIA

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18mm @ f/3.6

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Made possible by the XF100-400 and 1.4X teleconverter @ 559mm.

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A few shots walkin' down the Ocean City, MD boardwalk with my XP2 and 27mm.
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Hi everyone,

In AF-S single point, is it still possible to focus and recompose or does that work differently with the Fuji range of X cameras? Thanks for taking time to answer.
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My ongoing testing of how adapted lenses work on the X T1. This is the Nikkor 50 f1.2, wide open at its minimum focusing distance. Note the extremely shallow depth of field.

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  • Converts the fixed lens (28mm equivalent) to a 21mm equivalent without compromising optical performance.

X70-WCL Black $199.99
X70-WCL Silver $199.99
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This lens is not everyone's cup of tea, but I am liking it more as I use it.
Not many of these out there for sale. I don't think they were originally offered in the US (?).

The zoom range is perfect for me (36-52 EFOV on an APS sensor); constant f3.5 - I wish it were f2.8, but then it would be bigger, and it's already big enough for me because of the necessary adapter; lens entends only 3mm when zooming or focusing; hated the original hood, so I went to Ebay/China and dropped $5.

My big motivation here was that I truly hate large zooms. The only other zoom I own today is the Fuji 18-55, which is wonderful, but becomes a telescope at 55mm and I am not happy with that. If Fuji made a smallish 24-35/f4.0 zoom ..... dream on, Dave!

I'll post a stream of photos here, as I make them over time. If anyone else out there has this lens, feel free to drop some pictures here as you desire.

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The usual disclaimers apply: this is for USA; dealers will likely NOT publish these prices until May 22.

Note also the two lens kit for X-T10

May 22 thru July 2:


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Spurred on by great examples from @Tara Elizabeth, I sought and bought an example of the above lens attached to its donor camera for the princely sum of £60. This is one of my first test shots. Of course, Mistletoe the Jack Russell had to photo-bomb it!

[​IMG]X-Pro2 with Hexanon 57mm f1.4 test by Stephen Lee, on Flickr
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just recieved my 2nd hand 16-50mm to use as a carry around with my x-t10 (i felt the 18-135 was just a bit too heavy to be on as the main lense , but it still comes in my camera bag) More than happy with it . image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
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Ian
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:)

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I'm never first to publish with these things, but now a few months after release I've collected my thoughts on this little camera. I wasn't expecting it to fit into the Fuji picture as elegantly as it does, and now that I no longer have my X100T I'm realizing I might actually choose the X70 if I was to buy a compact again.

Fujifilm X70 Review — Marius Masalar
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I recently purchased an new X-Pro2 and used 35mm F2 (like new from a large online camera shop). I was testing the AF-S in my living room focusing on the lens box which was about 40cm away and then an object several meters away across the room. I noticed immediately I was getting a high number of images that were out of focus (both close and far targets) and after some more testing and recording the results I was getting 1 out of 10 images were out of focus.

I then did the same test with my 27mm and my 16-55mm F2.8 and focus was perfect, in fact I couldn't get eithet to miss focus. I tried the 35mm on my XT-1 and it also focused well, tried the 35mm on the X-Pro2 again and at least one blurry image in every 10.

When the camera missed focused the camera indicated positive focus with the beep and green light but image was completely blurry to the point where you would have difficulty telling what the image was. I thought maybe the camera was not shifting out/into macro mode properly with the 35mm since the other lens were fine.

Everything has newest firmware and was good light during the day in the room.

Anyways I'm a bit stumped as the problem only seems to occur with the one combination. I've requested an RMA for the lens as I'm assuming it's the issue but if anyone has any ideas or suggestions please let me know as I'd prefer to keep the lens if I can get this issue resolved.

Jason
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Anyone have any idea why Macs do not yet support us with Apple Camera RAW and LibRaw libraries?

and when they may add this support?

I would imagine Fuji made the RAW formats available well before release.
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Hi all,

I am wondering if fuji xt1 is capable lock focus to subject like shown in fuji a2? If it does, can anyone tell me how?


Thx
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Well, my first Fuji was an X100. Then bought an XE1, sold the X100. Then bought an XPro1, then an XT1, sold the XE1. Then bought an X100T; after a few months, I've sold that too... :-/

Yesterday I was cruising the camera shops in Mebourne and I saw a bashed up old XE1 in a shop. I asked how much...I think it was around $400 or so (you know what camera shops are like!)

I said I'd give $200 for it, so ended up getting it for $250.

For some reason, I feel quite elated! I always loved the pix from the XE1, just forgot until I saw this one :)

I know that a story needs a picture, but I just got in from the airport, so here are the only two I have, just to show she works! The lens was the 56, and I'm embarrassed to say, the leather jacket was on the door in the airport bathroom - glad I didn't drop the camera. ;)

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I am scheduled to take my XT1 in to Fujifilm tomorrow, but wanted to get some feedback from you guys!

I have spotted some "grease" spots on a few of my shots. The weird thing is that they show up on f8 shots but not with the lens wide open. At first I thought that these were on the sensor, but if that was the case then why would the aperture make a difference?

So today I started shooting a whole bunch of tests, including different lenses, different apertures, AE bracketing (all on RAW) and in focus & out of focus shots of the sky.

The blotches show up but not on every frame. Mainly at f8 or smaller aperture. ISO makes no difference and they are visible on wide angles more than tele lenses.

Any comments???

Next, during the testing I discovered a visible hot pixel! The camera is just over 2yrs old.

Can Fujifilm map out a hot pixel, or am I stuck with this forever?

Do you think I should dispose of the camera asap?

Not very happy :(
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Yesterday was my 18th anniversary. My husband and I went down to William Land Park in Sacramento (where we had some of our earliest dates) and took the "Travelling Lens" Jupiter 8 with us to take portraits of each other. Most of these were taken in the WPA Rock Garden.

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Hi Everyone,

I recently purchased the Lonely Speck SharpStar2 to assist with perfecting infinity focus for shooting stars. I was testing it last night using my 23mm f/1.4 lens.

Last night, I was getting optimal focus around the 5m (white) mark on the DOF scale when shooting wide open. Maybe *slightly* to the infinity side of it, but MUCH closer to 5m marker than to the infinity marker. This was confirmed both by reviewing and zooming in, and was also confirmed visually using live view in that if I moved the focus toward the infinity marker on the lens barrel the stars in live view were definitely less sharp (and also confirmed taking some photos and zooming in to review). Otherwise, the lens performed as expected. There were some coma issues in the corners wide open, that cleaned up by f/2.8. Sharpness across the frame seemed equivalent with the centre being best, but the right and left sides seeming equivalent.

I wonder if maybe this is some design thing with the focus by wire nature of the lens?? And maybe the very fine tuning adjustments I was trying to make.

Sitting at my computer in daylight as I came to write the post (having exhausted google searches), I decided to try again. There are some mountain out my window, however right now, it seems to be much better... optimal focus is *just* to the left of the infinity marker on the distance scale.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
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I hope people do not take this the wrong way, but I just want to give an introduction and goodbye of myself.

I am a Canon user who has been looking for a small travel companion and have tried the Sony A6000, RX100 and had my eyes set on the X100T. After lots of research I found a fairly cheap combo of an X-E1 and 18-55mm. I really wanted a zoom as I only have primes for my Canon and missed a general zoom, after rave reviews about the 18-55mm, I lusted for this lens. (sidenote, I've realized with EVERY kit lens, there are plenty of people who say 'this should not be a kit lens, its too good')

I played with the X-E1 fully understanding its a first gen X series and pretty much everything performs better than this now. I am not bashing its slowish performance or slowish AF system. My 18-55mm takes great pictures, however my 18-55mm was probably defective as literally 1 out of 10 shots were in focus. I soon find out the 18-55mm has OIS/decentering issues, and my lens was almost definitely defective somewhere. The 18-55mm was pretty good when it hit, but not nearly the gem I thought it would be. I move on and buy the 35mm f2. I figure even if I don't use the 18-55, I can use this as my X100 replacement with a 50mm lens.

I get the lens, its SEXY, IQ is pretty good, focusing is better. But I am just not wowed. My Canon 6D with the 40mm pancake is basically the same size and weight and I seem to prefer the images. Fuji has great colors, but I don't know if its Full Frame or what, but colors out of the Canon are just 'deeper'

I ended up returning all my Fuji stuff. Maybe I will come back again. But for now, I am happy to say I at least tried Fuji. Fuji glass is GREAT, Fuji colors are great. Fuji really has a great system going, and I would imagine in a generation or two, Fuji will give everyone a run for its money. Its cost/quality ratio is probably the best out of all manufacturers.
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XPro1 and XF55-200mm hiking around some local State Parks over the last few weeks.

Thanks for looking,
Ed
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I just acquired a 50-140, and took it on a road trip in the Columbia River Gorge. Here are a few of my better shots:

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Not much sun but surprisingly strong colours on these boats with Velvia simulation under a grey sky:
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Really liking this combination of the X-T1 and Zeiss 32mm lens

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I've switched from a nikon DSLR to a fuji x-t10. I'm finding that I'm surprised sometimes at it not freezing motion. I just did a serious of photos with children at 1/180, F 2 to F 4, iso 1600. They were tossing things and twirling. In several images the moving hand or the pillow is blurred. I would think that 1/180 is sufficient to stop action. What am I not doing right? Thank you for any help!
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X-T1
XF100-400
XF-1.4x
PS+ Nik software and a bit cropped and enlarged again.

Apenheul / Apeldoorn / The Netherlands (Hometown)

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I love my X-T1 with the bag of zooms and primes.
I love my X100s. Just throw it over my shoulder and go.
Now I have this damnable little X70.

I just returned from a long weekend trip. Family thing. No real time for serious photography. But I did have several opportunities to do some walkin' around - shootin' stuff.

Time after time, when I had to decide what camera to take along, I would just grab the X70 and slip it in my pocket, leaving my X-T1 and/or X100 behind.

Don't get me wrong, I was very pleased and satisfied with the pictures. But I didn't have the X-T1 and lenses with me like I always would have before. I'm missing shots - right? I must be. Damnable little X70. It might just turn out to be the worst camera buying decision I ever made.
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Hello all,

I do realize that there are several threads about DR, highlight and shadow settings, discussing in some detail what setting will have what effects for Jpegs and/or RAWs. I don't want to go there again, I would simply like to know how you set up your highlight and shadow settings, and what thinking led you there.

I'm leaning to set my highlights to -2, because I often find that the highlights in my Jpeg files lack detail (especially the sky). This setting would be for general-purpose shooting in daylight – "street", architecture, random stuff.

Anybody here who's shooting with that setup? Or is it a stupid idea?
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I am after some advice using a Nikon SB800 flash with my XT10. Reading posts on the XT1 I have my camera set to fixed f5.6 aperture and 1/100 shutter speed, iso at 400. Camera flash is set to commander which i thought disabled pre-flash. The flash is plugged directly into hotshot and set to manual mode 1/8 power. When i take a shot the flash does register on the exposure but only small amount. If I change the flash power from 1/8 up to 1/1 the exposure on the image does not change and remains under exposed. If I use the flash on my Nikon camera with similar settings I get the exposure I would expect based on than flash manual power settings. My guess is that the flash is triggering on the pre flash of the Fuji ttl metering but I thought this is disabled with command mode. Any one got suggestions on what I am doing wrong?
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I have posted another thread below asking for advice, but now that a conclusive end has been reached, I thought I should share my experience with this community, which has been a great resource to me while researching which camera system to buy.

I have a 5 week old X-T1 with a dead ISO dial. You can turn it to any setting, but it won't change the ISO. Spoke with Fuji customer service - nice folks, by the way - they had me check that nothing was locked in the menu, then we did a full reset. Also reinstalled the 4.3 firmware. Nothing working. ISO is permanently stuck at 200. This camera has been treated with kid gloves - never dropped, bumped, or anything other than handled with care.

As I mentioned above, I did a good bit of research beforehand, here on these forums and other places, before deciding to buy into the Fuji system (X-T1 and 4 lenses). Needless to say, I am so disappointed that I have to send my camera in for repair after just 5 weeks of ownership. Yes, I checked with my local camera store - predictably, they told me anything beyond 30 days = warranty claim w/ Fuji.

What's the point of my posting this? Well, I wanted to let potential future Fuji buyers know that despite my troubles, I still love this camera and the photos I get out of it, and will stay with the Fuji system even after this setback. In the event someone else runs into this problem with the ISO dial, you'll know how it turned out for me.
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