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Hello, I wanted to share this, and maybe also get some feedback. Is this OK, or just not interesting? I do like the effect from F16 on the moon, and it's impossible to get everything sharp. Should I have used HDR or stacking instead? I'm not sure. 20160719-_DSF6803.jpg
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Hey, it rhymes. Don't expect more.

X100s today

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2 degrees C

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I was on vacation this week in Bornholm, and even if I used my 16mm most of the time, this was taken with the old 35mm 1,4. On camera flash, he was under the table and after we had taken some pictures, he wandered back out in the forest. Iv I had been braver, I would have gotten even closer. But I think it turned out OK. 20160722-_DSF7318.jpg
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I've been sick for some days now (I still am) but yesterday I went out to get fresh air and took my X70 with me. I got some pictures with me back home and here they are:

30 sec - f/10 - 18 mm - ISO 200
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1/220 - f/2.8 - 18 mm - ISO 200
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1/100 - f/4 - 18 mm - ISO 500
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XT1, 35mm f1.4 - it was the shadows that caught my eye...

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Vancouver Island has a thriving car scene with all sorts of sub-groups represented including hot rods. Al Clark is an internationally renowned builder of vehicles based on 1932 Fords, the "little deuce coupe." Al has been getting his friends together to celebrate this style of hot rod for over 25 years and what started as a small gathering has grown into Northwest Deuce Days. It is held every 3 years and this year over 1000 vehicles were registered.

It is a wonderful opportunity for photography and I count my self extremely fortunate to have it happening for four days right on my doorstep. When it last happened in 2013 I was new to Fuji with an X20 and a newly acquired X100LE, each of which had one battery and each of which mysteriously ran out of juice shortly into the one session I could attend.

This time around I have an X-E2s,several batteries, a schedule to do something related every day and a plan to devote each of my sessions to one lense and one approach. Thursday it was the 18mm, yesterday it was the 35mm and night shots and today it was monochrome with the 18-55mm and a determination to include the participants, which is something I usually go to great lengths to exclude in my car shots.

I've been so enormously impressed with the quality of the images I've been getting, particularly the jpegs which have needed very little tweaking. The camera itself is a joy to use. I don't recall when I last produced so many images I was so pleased with.

Here are a couple with more in an album if anyone is interested.

How about that Transport section moderators?

Chris

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Northwest Deuce Days 2016 album
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I've had two X-T1s for the last year or so, and was intending to replace them both with the X-T2 in September. Then when I saw the announcment regarding the firmware upgrade for the X-Pro 2 scheduled to be released around the same time, I decided to give some consideration to the X-Pro2 as my 2nd body. I had previously road tested the X-Pro1 at the Fuji event at the Palm Springs Photo Festival the year it was released, and found the non adjustable diopter (and some other things) not workable for me. (I sometimes shoot w/ my glasses on, sometimes not - need to be able to adjust on the fly.)

Long story a little shorter, I bought an X-Pro2 and MHG yesterday and spent the day reading the manual and Rico P's tips book, configuring the camera, shooting test files and processing and printing them on my Epson P800 printer.

I'm VERY pleased with the new sensor and processor. I was expecting nominal improvement/advancment in image quality in prints, but find the quality increase more than I had expected. A really nice step forward. High ISO prints look "a lot" better at 3200 and above than the X-T1 files. I'm surprised by this and pleased. 17x22" prints from high ISO files look very tight and have excellent tonal transitions (I do fine art printing for photographers, so know a decent print when I process and print / "see" one.)

The shooting experience is very nice. And while many have reported irritation at the ISO dial, I don't find it objectionable at all. My last RF "style" camera was in fact an RF camera, and the X-Pro2 total experience is somewhat reminicent of my Leica M4 from back in the day. I like it.

One of the big surprises for me, that I'd not even thought about is the ease in tracking action via the OVF as opposed to the blackout of the EVF. Again, really surprised, and this body brings something to the table that I don't think even the fast rate of the X-T2 will be completely "solve" re the tracking blackout issue.

So, call me pleased.
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One of my coworkers wants to buy my X-T1/18-55. Going to make him a sweet deal in order to fuel my GAS. BTW, Fuji - that makes him my 4th friend to get into the X camera system if y'all are handing out commission checks. :D

Anywhoo... I really regret not getting the GS version of the X-T1.

Have those of you that have preordered heard about the availability of a silver model?

I'd love to preorder one if that is an option.
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Picked up at the supermarket carpark from one tree, shot in a moment of sun between waves of torrential rain! It's midwinter here...

Sony A7R with Tamron SP 35-80mm f2.8-3.8

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Had a chance to shoot custom bike builder Strife Charming with one of his creations today. X-Pro1 with the 10-24 lens. All natural light. Processed in Lightroom and Silver EFEX. Strife 4.JPG
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the thinker
by kevin dixey, on Flickr

Apologies for the double post. It's also in the Summer of Pictures thread but I wanted to share a bit more about the lens

I just picked this lens up this lens and like it quite a lot. It's not the Fuji 23/1.4 but then again it was also $800 less expensive as well. I've been looking for a 24mm for a while since there are times when my 28mm lenses aren't quite wide enough. I found this lens on Fred Miranda for a good price and figured it was worth a shot as I like my Canon FD 50/1.4 SSC quite a lot. It's not the sharpest 24mm I've ever had but it is very appealing none the less. I have always found these old Canon SSC lenses work well with BW. The build quality is nice (and a bit heavy) but it's smaller than I thought it would be.
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Many people at the wall, including IDF soldiers. More here.

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I recently submitted a portfolio of current work and was accepted to participate in the Observe Dallas Workshop. A documentary/street photo art project. I was scouting locations and working on project ideas, when I snapped a barber shop from across a multilane street.

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I leaned against a parking meter waiting for another passerby, when a man emerged from the barber shop and approached me. “You can’t take pictures of my barbershop!” I politely engaged the man. Explained the project and was even able to point to a nearby building that was part of the project.

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He would have none of it. “I’m gonna beat your ass and break your cameras”. I maintained my composure and never broke eye contact during his repeated threats. He finally walked back to his shop.

I called 911. Police were dispatched and I told them of the threats. The police asked if I wanted him arrested, I asked if they could explain the law to him and assure me that he was not dangerous.

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Spent the rest of my morning scouting locations and working out project ideas.


Thanks, Dallas PD.
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Just picked up an X-T10 and overall I like it but find it a little difficult to get a good grip on it. What thinking about selling it on for an X-T1 but thought I would find out if others have a similar issue and what solution you are using;
Thumb grip (lensmate, thumbs up, etc.)
Metal grip baseplate
Leather half case

All pictures welcome as well.
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Hello everyone,
I am new to ACTUAL photography. My present gadgets are a Fuji X-T10 and 18-55 lens. I am going to buy a Rokinon 12mm f2.0 lens. But I am stuck in another place. I have a few questions in mind. It will be great help if someone could just help me to find out those answers.
But first, let me briefly tell my situation. I want to buy a portrait lens. While the 55mm end of my present lens serves me well, I want those creamy bokeh. But I am also very short on budget. So....

Q1. Should I buy cheaper lens like new Meiko 50mm f1.2 or wait for a bit more to gather money to buy Rokinon 50mm f1.2 or even wait more to be able to buy fuji 50mm f1.4? Or how about fuji's cheaper 60mm lens? or even slower fujinon 70-230mm lens? Or should I opt for some other 3rd party lens like Canon or Nikon and maybe use them with an adapter? Or should I go for a vintage one altogether? Listen I know very well that the more you will spend, the better quality and options you are gonna get in a lens. So I need suggestions on the basis of cost-benefit ratio because for some less money, I can live with maybe-not-the-best-but-better-quality lens. And one other thing, many people adapt lens to their newer camera because they already had those lens, so it is very much justified for them. But as I want to buy a new one, will it be justified for me to buy other OEM or 3rd party lenses?

Q2. Which is the best online market to find vintage lens in UK and USA? Also any good site for vintage lens reviews? To look for vintage lens, which brand should I rely on most? And what adapter system should I buy?

Q3. I live in a country where Canon and Nikon cameras are mostly used. So should I import some adapters so that I can buy or use those lenses on my Fuji camera. maybe in future? If so, which adapters should I buy? I understand most newer Canon and Nikon lens don't include aperture ring which I think may become an issue for me, isn't it?
Q4. As I said, I already own the Fuji XF 18-55mm f2.8-4.0 lens and taking portraits with it is a good experience for me. So should I go for another 50mm lens with a higher aperture or should I go for higher focal length? As I said, please consider the cost-benefit ratio.

Well I know my questions are bit disorganised and amaturish. But I am stuck. So I will really appreciate some help. Thanks in advance.
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I am wanting to sell my 35F2 since I never use it. And when I was taking images for eBay I noticed 2 specs of what seem to be dust. At least I think it's dust. I know some lenses throw off a small reflection that look like dust. I'm posting a pic...can you guys take a look and give me your opinion?

Also, if it is intact dust, what would a good price be to place on the lens? I've never noticed any spots showing up in the images I took with it. But I don't want to deceive a potential buyer either.

thanks!

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Taken January 29 this year. How things have changed! I hope this will cool some of you suffering in this awful heat! NEX 7, lens Vivitar 90mm, f2.5 Macro, (Bokina)

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Thank you for viewing!

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Just messing around. Never thought to put this lens on even though I've had it for years. It did OK, in fact I like it quite a bit. Time to fool around with some adapted lenses I think.

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Summer Deck
by David, on Flickr
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I used to own this lens in Minolta mount but sold it when moving to Fuji because it had no aperture ring. I've often wished for it back and finally decided to buy a used one in Nikon flavour along with a cheap adapter. I pottered around the garden with it today and discovered the focus ring is a bit stiff and high geared. This combined with a tiny bit of slack in the adapter mount makes manual focus less easy than I remember it being. Maybe my copy is not a great one...? Still, I'm glad to have re-acquired it. Does it qualify me for membership of the adapted lens club?
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So I dropped my X-T1 and 16-55 yesterday straight onto tarmac ( :eek::oops::confused::() It fell a couple feet max and the lens hood has two specific scuff marks, imprinted with the red of the ground it landed on, plus one scuff on the body. No other marks though and glass seems good so I think the lens hood took the initial brunt.

I carried on using it after and it seemed perfectly ok but is there anything I should watch out for?
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Put my 16mm through its paces as its been a bit ignored lately. Loving it's bokeh

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Interesting to note that Amazon Italy and Amazon Germany are offering the X-T2 for pre-order but Amazon UK, Spain and France have not done so yet.
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I apologize for posting what gas more than likely been gone over in many posts.
simple question is the auto focus on the xpro 2 that much better? That would be good news to me if it was.
How about the soon to be released X-T2 and opinions.
thanks

Alfonse
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I've had this lens in my hands for a fair few months now but for one reason or another (mainly loss of motivation/mojo whatever you want to call it) I have not given it or my photography a run out for a while. I had forgotten how quickly you can get rusty but here are a few just to stretch it's legs, as it were.

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What is the most efficient way to deblur a picture using Photoshop CS6? Can anyone recommend the whole technique?
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Just learning this camera. So far so good.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
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Since the rumor mill is very insistent that a medium format Fuji is on the way, I was just sitting here pondering how amusing it might be to put adapted lenses on that.

I'm not even thinking about adapted medium format lenses. That's too easy. I'm thinking about 35mm SLR lenses. So, the image circle is too small for the sensor -- but we know how to deal with that, right? Somebody could make a tele-converter to expand that image circle for full coverage. Or more interesting, just use it as-is with all the vignetting -- and then you can crop down however you wish. You could crop to a square image and use that lens in a way that was never possible on a SLR before

OK, this is probably ridiculous simply from an economic standpoint, because who is going to spend all that money on a MF body and then put old 135 format lenses on it? Doesn't make sense... But that probably won't stop someone from doing it. And it's fun to contemplate the possibilities, anyhow.
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Hi, this is about my ongoing search for a good, usable full frame standard zoom to put on my Sony A7R. I'm posting here, because the results are even more applicable to crop sensors, where the corner issues won't apply.

I spent a long time fiddling with the Canon FD 35-105mm fixed aperture f3.5 - well regarded as one of the sharpest zooms out there. Its weakness is, in my copy, poor wide open performance at 35mm, and a persistent de-centring that leads to some softness in a patch at the left edge of the picture at the wider end. However, as a 50-150mm equivalent f3.5, it is exceptionally sharp and contrasty. But, for all my fiddling, adjusting infinity focus, etc, I couldn't make the de-centring go away, so that spoils it for me for full frame.

Next up I got a Tamron SP 35-80mm f2.8-3.8 with true macro ability at the tele end. This lens is just amazing for corner to corner resolution. Its weakness is a slight loss of contrast wide open, but other than that, it does pretty much everything I want in a standard zoom - great close-up performance, good contrast and sharpness when closed down one stop. It's also much smaller and lighter than the Canon. Both these lenses can be got for around $100 or so.

Here are a few preliminary results - all these pix are crisp at 100%, but I hope these small jpgs will give at least some idea. So far, this is the best standard zoom I've tried on full frame, easily trouncing the Sony/Zeiss 24-70 f4 except in the central region of the image. The fourth image is sharper than an almost identical frame taken on the Canon FD 50mm f3.5 macro at f5.6 :eek:

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Hi all.

My name is Matt and I've been shooting on Nikon since the 70's, switched to the 5dmkii when it came out with HD video recording.

Co-wrote a book on shooting video on your DSLR:

From Still to Motion: A photographer's guide to creating video with your DSLR (Voices That Matter): James Ball, Robbie Carman, Matt Gottshalk: 9780321702111: Amazon.com: Books

Spoke at NAB and various other venues like documentary sessions on shooting video on your dslr as well.

Ran my own film/video production firm for over 20 years:




Returned to Nikon when the D810 came out because the menus and everything else made sense to me.

Really enjoyed the images I got out of it:


But like a lot of you, I got tired of dragging the "boat anchor" around.

So i bought the Xpro 2, 16mm prime, 32mm prime, 56mm prime, and 18-135mm zoom and have been enjoying them so far.
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Hello all. Trying to get full size images to transfer and made the setting change in menu however it says file not found when I go to transfer. Any suggestions.
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Hello all,

My question is pretty simple, but I haven't been able to find a very clear-cut answer.

Is there a difference, either measurable or noticeable in real-world use, between the AF on the X-T1 and X-E2s? My understanding is that they have the same AF hardware (phase detection pixels in the center, contrast detection elsewhere) on the sensor, so any difference in handling would be due to firmware or AF algorithm.

Can anyone confirm or share their experiences? Esp. Regarding the XF 50-140.
I'm preparing to choose between the two cameras as a replacement for my battered and aging X-E1, and this is the only point where I don't feel sufficiently informed about the differences.

Thanks.
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X-Pro2 with raw compression is adding RAF files to DNG import.


I'm using Lightroom 2015.6 Camera Raw 9.6. With camera sn: 61A06322.


After import of raf files. I find some extra raf files (Show in Explorer) among the converted dng files. No problem with X-Pro2 uncompressed files.


I have eliminated:

Memory cards - brand; size; speed.

Other cameras - X-T1; X-Pro1;Nikon D800

Import from iPad/ Lightroom Mobile.

Other camera setting - card slot (RAW/JPG); Sequential, etc.; Image Size; Image Quality and others.


I discovered this when I remove folders in Lightroom they where still in Explore. Because the raf were still in the folder.


So, if you are using "Lossless Compressed" and converting dng in Lightroom, check your Explorer folder and tell us if you have the same problem.


Thank you all,

Jerry
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