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Just back from photographing in Colorado and I really liked these shots _DSC6830.jpg _DSC6814.jpg .
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Could anyone send me few shots in RAW? I'm searching the Internet and I found only jpegs.

What I need is just few shots. Whatever on it, maybe shot from your window, architecture, some vacations, still life. Would be nice if images was taken @ 25 mm eq. / f about 4,0-5,6 / ISO 200-400-800. Wetransfer or Sendit or similar.

TIA

leon7001@wp.pl
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Does anyone know if Fuji has studied the materials in their lenses, particularly the WR lenses, for outgassing over time or at extended top-of-temperature-range use?

Lubricants and soft materials can wreak havoc. Been shooting for over 40 years and have had GREAT lenses like Leicas fog up. As a retired aerospace engineer/optical physicist I know there are accelerated tests for this.

My WR lenses probably outlast me, but I'd love to know. Some lubricant issues show up over only a few years.
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I am so glad that Fuji finally introduced the much rumored medium format camera system. Although I admire the new platform, the price, size and bulk of medium format puts it way outside my area of lust.

Thankfully, my GAS gets a reprieve as does my wallet for now. Thank you Fuji!

Bud
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Hi guys,

I recently purchased a XF-56 second hand to replace a 50mm f1.4 manual Rokkor Minolta fit lens I had been using for portraits for about a year.

I had used the Minolta with the EF-X20 in manual mode, adjusting the flash power according to distance/aperture which worked fine with some stunning results. The main reason I went for the XF-56 was so I could use the flash in auto mode and save me having to mess with the settings, shooting people dancing and moving is rather tricky if you are using manual focus and flash!

I got the chance to use my XF56 for the first time last night but I immediately ran into problems where the flash was under/over exposing excessively. Not just a little out, we're talking white-out or almost black shots shot! I could take exactly the same shot again and every time the flash would behave differently, it was like the Flash was ignoring the settings?

I tried to switch to my XF-23 thinking maybe the XF56 was at fault but I ran into the same issues. I am sure I have used the XF23 with the flah in auto mode before but I don't use the flash much with the XF23 as I use the flash for portrait shots with the 50mm Rokkor.

I then tried switching the EF-X20 back to good old manual mode and everything was fine, I could throttle the flash power up and down and it worked exactly as it should.

I am thinking that the link between the flash and the X-T1 is intermittent and the flash isn't getting information from the camera about how much throttle to use.

Has anyone else had similar issues?

Thanks in advance for any help!
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Hello...

Some more pictures of my product shoot of the antique buffalo horn comb. Please tell me if I can improve something...?

My best, Wi.

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I know many photographers seem to be drawn to cemeteries so I thought it might be interesting to see some images taken with Fuji cameras of cemeteries and grave sites. Cemeteries can be so different the world over and since this is an international group of Fuji shooters...well post some shots.

I'll start with one. I stopped at a cemetery a few days ago and came upon a revolutionary war(1775-1783) soldier's grave.
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and one more..
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I am using and x-e2 and an x100s. I use Lightroom for post processing and I shoot raw.

I am curious if others find the shadow areas of your photos to be too dark out of camera. The shadows seems to be quite deep and I am often using the shadow slider to open them up a bit. I know the tone curve used by Fuji tends to make the photos more "punchy" which many people prefer. I find these deep shadows to be there with any film simulation, even pro neg standard.

I don't consider this to be a problem as it is easily fixed upon import in Lightroom or when tweaking an image. I'm just wondering if others find the lower end of the curve perhaps a bit too hard or steep out of camera and then have to open the shadows up often(not always) in post.
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X-T1, 18-55, ND400

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and I had several audiences while I was out walking and shooting

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Why do you mainly use it, and under what circumstances?

I mainly use the evf, but wonder if I'm missing something. I feel like I just don't know how to properly use the parallax optical viewfinder.
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Hey, hey!

I've been loving my xpro 2, but suddenly, I can't get the shutter to drop below 1"! Even when I'm on T, or Bulb or using the Fuji remote app to trigger the shutter from my smart phone. I've shot hundreds of photos with shutters as slow as 30 seconds, and suddenly, it just will not go below 1 second! Any tips? Has anyone else experienced this?? I just keep thinking I must have some strange setting in place accidentally, but I can't find anything! Any help would be so appreciated!

(We're on day 120 of a cross country trip right now, and I'm so bummed that I missed the most amazing shots last in Oregon at Cannon Beach! Hoping to get this resolved ASAP!)
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Recent trip to Lisbon - Love this city.

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Working on my next book and exhibition and the latest section is shot. All shot on X-Pro 2s and a lot using the Zeiss Touit 12mm 2.8mm Distagon you can see a post about it here

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Hey there,
I have an xt-10 and wanted to ask if it's possible to remove the "advanced filters " after using them by mistake?
Thanks
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Is it a USB (A) to Micro (B) cable that I need for my X-T1 for tethering?
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One from a local churchyard

X Pro1 + 18mm F2 lens
ISO 200, 18mm, f9, 1/220th sec


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Hi. Although a long term T1 user, I never setup the custom setting banks. Now I have the T2 I am keen to do so as I'd like to switch between say Wildlife and Street settings, but I wonder if anyone can help advise me to see if I can achieve what I want please?

Does it work the same as Nikon custom banks where I can set up a custom bank for e.g wildlife, landscape, portrait etc settings with numerous different settings within each bank. So, as an example I'd like to have a custom bank I can switch to which contains multiple selections. Example:

Custom Bank 2 - Wildlife
Shutter = Electronic
Focus = AF-C
ISO = auto low 200 high 800
Focus points = ?
AF Tracking = ON

I may be way off track here, but put simply can I use a custom bank which contains numerous settings, or is this beyond the Fuji X capabilities?

Thanks

Richard
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I am still playing with my new XT2 and leaving on a trip soon. I have my SD card slots set to sequential (and I do want it to save to one card and then to the second when full) but, I have noticed that my card is set on the #2 slot first. On my old Canon, it was easy to decide which card I wanted it to start on, but I can't seem to see where I can change it from Slot 2 to Slot 1. Any ideas? Thanks
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I use my phone a lot for photography, sometimes more often than my Fuji X100T. I like it because is with me all the time and the quality is good for what I do. Right now I have like 2,000 images on my smartphone from the last 2 months.
I`m not a gear guy, I make images with what camera I have in my hand or pocket.
Here is a small selection, I will add more after.

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Autumn colours are on the way.

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and cannot wait until tomorrow to open it. Must because of work...and that is kind of ok. Have been waiting a long time so 2 days more are ok and a nice goal.

I'm coming from the Xp1 so I have (too..)many expectations. I feel kind of nervous but of course in a good way.

I promised the XP1 that I will never leave it but no doubt about it; There is gonna be a new viewfinder in town:)
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Two weeks ago, my girlfriend and I went to Swedish Lapland to climb mount Kebnekaise, the highest peak in Sweden. From the Sami village of Nikkaluokta it is a one day trek to the mountain station, than one full day of climbing and descending Kebnekaise (and an intermediate summit, Vierranvarri), which takes 10-14 hours, and another day back to Nikkaluokta. We were in luck. It has been said that northern Sweden only knows one week of autumn, and we were smack in the middle of it, including all the colours that autumn brings.

As we would be camping all the way, and had to carry all our equipment during hiking (but not during climbing Kebnekaise itself), weight was an issue. However, I definitely didn't want to leave my camera behind, so I decided to take my XT-1, the 16-55 and the 12 mm Samyang. The XT-1 and 16-55 also accompanied me to the summit. To be able to use my trekking poles and still be able to take photographs on the fly, I used the Peak Design Capture Pro clip to attach the camera to my backpack, and during the climb to my belt. I also used the Peak Design Shell to protect it from the snowdrift that fell during our climb. This system worked perfectly, and I couldn't be happier with it!

Due to other engagements, I haven't been able to fully sort out all the images I took, but I would like to share a few with you. I hope you like them, and I can only say that the images probably do not do justice to the beauty of this wonderful journey.

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XT-1, 60mm

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We won't be seeing these in our back yard much longer for this year. Guess I can look at photos as the season changes. This was captured yesterday with my X-T2 and 90mm lens.

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The 2.5mm male to 3.5mm female adapter that can be found on ebay where the 2.5mm has three black rings like the ones for smartphones, will they work to record video sound in to the camera?
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Cameras of today have pretty sophisticated light measuring tools. Which leads me to question how many folks still use a hand-held light meter.

I recently stumbled upon a review of a Sekonic LiteMaster Pro light meter that measures flash percentage which I thought was a brilliant, (no pun intended), idea. Adding to the intrigue is the fact that this meter can also can trigger a Pocketwizard. And for those of you shooting video, would one of these new meters be useful?

Anybody able to chime in and advise?
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Hi guys!

As usual, back to Fuji X I come...
I've purchased a Fuji X70 off of ebay with 2 batteriers, hood & filter adapter and a filter for a nice £400 delivered. It even came with the oiginal £499 receipt from Currys.

Now, the camera is only 2 weeks old according to the receipt, and the camera does look like brand new, but; the screen is lifting on one side and is not flush like the other side is. You can't quite get your fingernail under it but it's damn close. If you push it back down it stays there for a little while but then soon pops back out.

My questions are:
1) Has anybody else got this problem?
2) If you were in my position, would you just keep it and live with it or send it back to the seller?
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Had one firmware update to 1.21, so just wondering if that is the end of the road for the X-T10?
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As an ex Nikon user I have just purchased the XT2, initially it is a great camera but I do have a problem that someone may be able to help me out.

On Nikon I have always used the ETTR system with Raw files making good use of the histogram.
As you well know when you expose to the right, the playback image normally looks over exposed in the camera but works fine when its processed in ACR for example.
I am trying to use the WYSIWYG image in the EVF to assess exposure but because of exposing to the right, the EVF image is over exposed when the Histogram says it is ETTR correctly.
Is it possible to adjust the camera settings so the WYSIWYG image in the EVF looks correctly exposed when the Histogram is correctly ETTR?

Because the histogram on the XT2 is so small and on a see thro style background, depending on your subject, it is very difficult to see when the highlights start to clip.

Can it be made larger and clearer?

This is my first post so I hope everything is ok with the forum

Regards
Michael
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Dear members,

I was so eager to hold my new X-T2 in my hands. I think a lot of old "X-T1" issues are soved and improved. After taking first pictures I have an issue with the back screen. The pictures as well as live image looks like a 20 years old VGA screen with 256 colours only. Please see attached picture. No issues with EVF, looks perfect there but the back screen looks horrible. Any idea? Is this is wrong setting somewhere? Or is it defect?
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Any day now, these littled winged wonders will disappear from our area for about seven months, so I'm getting a few last shots for 2016. There are some interesting facts about humming birds (for example, they can't walk like other birds... it's basically perch in one place, or fly). But one amazing thing to me is that when they migrate, some are known to cross the Gulf of Mexico. Surely that flight is non-stop, unless they are lucky enough to encounter something on the water where they can rest a bit. Depending on where they cross, that distance is what (just guessing)... 400-500 miles? X-E2, XF55-200

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Shot with X100 at a deprived area in Athens 14435086_1774265392831421_8368662858266315598_o.jpg
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Hello all. We are working on our product shoot for our shop in Bali, and would like to share some of our images... If you have any feedback or advice, please let me know. I hope you enjoy...

Best, Wi Darsih.

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XPro1 and XF55-200mm looking at a patch of particularly colorful sandstone today at a local State Park.

Thanks for looking,
Ed
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Close up taken with my Xe-2 and 60mm macro. Classic Chrome simulation. Window light with a reflector. Processed with Light Room.
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Finally got round to buying a second hand xf23 and I've noticed the manual focus ring is pretty damn noisy when compared to my other lens. It almost sounds like a cat purring. Apologies if this thread has been raised before but is this normal??
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