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This was taken with an Olympus OM-1 and, probably, a Zuiko 35mm lens. A Kodachrome slide that I just copied today using my Nikon D90 with the 85mm macro lens and a small light box (to back light the slides). Camera mounted on a tripod with a Manfrotto ball head and pointed down at the light box.

I haven't looked at this in years. Now, it's digital!

[​IMG]Moonrise - 1981 by CSG_Photography, on Flickr
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Hello everyone. I am new to the the X system but not so new to shooting with old lenses. I did shoot with canon before but now I made my switch. Recently, I've been shooting lots of landscape and my 12mm f2 rokinon has been great. But sometimes I wish I had something a little higher than 12mm. maybe something between 16 to 21mm. Anyone recommend anything for that? So far I have

8mm Rokinon fisheye f2.8
12mm rokinon f2
Mir 1b 37mm f2.8
50mm f1.8 olympus OM
70-210mm vivitar f2.8-4

I'm loving the setup for landscape/portrait. Just want something nice for landscape in between my rokinon and Mir 1b
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Fourteen blades for a nice rounded aperture at any stop. A little glow wide open but sharpens up pretty quickly at F2.8 and smaller. F5.6 makes for a sharp image across the frame. Fairly small for a fast 85mm with an unusual aperture preset which allows for accurate focus at F1.8 and a quick flick to the desired setting. If there's one thing that I would change it would be a shorter min. focus distance.

Here it is on an NEX-6(sorry).
by john matsu, on Flickr

And here's a few samples of it at semi close up range(nikon k3 ring) to show the smooth background render. F1.8, F2.8, F4, F5.6, and F8. I'll try and add some real world samples to the thread shortly.

vivitar 85mm 1.8 preset T mount
by john matsu, on Flickr

vivitar 85mm 1.8 preset T mount
by john matsu, on Flickr

[​IMG]vivitar 85mm 1.8 preset T mount by john matsu, on Flickr

vivitar 85mm 1.8 preset T mount
by john matsu, on Flickr

vivitar 85mm 1.8 preset T mount
by john matsu, on Flickr
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Shot this morning, Fuji XT1, 10-24 @ 24,, f8, 1/18s, ISO200.[​IMG]
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Along the Salish Sea looking out toward the entrance to the Pacific Ocean.
X Pro-2 / 10-24mm f/4

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I just took delivery of a new XPro-1 from Amazon, unwrapped it, set it up, and went out yesterday for errands. A little bit of shooting. Now I look at the eyepiece and there is nothing in the threaded opening. I never noticed if there is a "blank" eyepiece or perhaps just an empty ring that lives in that collar.

Until my first try at picking the right diopter arrives I'm using a pair of glasses made for computer desk distance only and that seems to work reasonably well for the finder info and distant subject matter. I was pleasantly surprised that I could see all the edge elements, but the lenses of these glasses are going to really scratch.

If my diopters have no rubber ring cushion it may be a case for Sugru (spelling?)

I have read all the threads about eyepieces. Thanks to all that wrote over the last four years about their eyepiece/correction solutions and resources.
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Sometimes is hard to wake up early in the morning to see the sunrise... however the reward can be great... as this sunrise.

Come check out my site here:

Fuji XT-1 + Samyang 12mm

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On my x-t10, image.jpeg image.jpeg a couple with a strapped on pentax zoom.. shot at about 200mm - seems to keep up ok :)
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Dandelions and crabapple blossom




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Abandoned truck in industrial area X100


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Skunk cabbage along the Little Plover River.

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The same X100 file processed in two versions:

1. Pretty much straight up with little processing beyond some touches to exposure and a slight bit of sharpening
2. Run through Snapseed for a more artistic (used advisedly) look


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How you focus when using longer lens such as 56mm up in OVF. I found most image from long lens or large size lens will cover or cover partially by the lens itself but in EVF, I could see every thing. Let me know your experience on that issue. Thanks
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The trails are drying out nicely and from this time of year much of my photo time / oppurtunities are from a mountain bike, usually on a fast-ish ride with other people, (which really restricts the time one has to get a shot!) Here are a few from last nights ride; a lovely route through the woods to see the bluebellsin the low light then onto the downs westwards towards the sunset)

A lucky place for a friend to have her puncture, I got 5 minutes to shoot in the evening sun whilst it was fixed :)


Riding back up from the weald (much steeper than it looks!)

I saw this well placed puddle reflecting the sunlight. Here I got 5 seconds to whip the camera out and take a frame before our friends disappeared over the horizon (the pace is quite fast and I have to work hard to catch up after a stop like this)

Near the end of the ride on New timber hill. The sky is nice but more fun with some cooperative riders for silhouette:

thanks for looking, any crits are very welcome.

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Hello all

I've just rec'd a 35mm f2 from the Fuji refurb store but I am concerned about the focusing close up.

I don't mean macro close up as I know it doesn't focus that closely but say 45cm away - for eg on some flowers in a vase it just can't lock on - is this normal ?

If I change from zone to spot focusing its fine but it does seem worse than other lenses I've used ?

Don't know if I'm being paranoid because it's a refurb lens !

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Hi guys, i am currently looking for some old manual zoom lens to buy. Reading and reading posts in the past few weeks, i found the following two lenses as a good choice:
- Canon FD 80-200mm f/4L
- Vivitar Series 1 70-210mm f/3.5 Macro MD

I cannot find a direct comparison of the two lenses anywhere. So my question is - which of the two would you recommend, which has a better IQ? Canon is like 5 times more expensive than the vivitar, is it worth the price?
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Just a few shots from last weekend spent in Milano





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my x-t10 has a button i can use for each exposure and focus on the back of the body and i like to make use of them both. On my new xpro1 i notice there is only one button, so it seems an either one or the other or both together on the one button situation. can anyone fill me in on how to lock exposure separately, if i'm just using that back button to focus.? thanks
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I'm looking for some advice from the knowledgeable folk on here. I have a specific job to do with the x-E1 which requires the use off-camera flash. I rarely use flash, so I'd like to avoid buying kit which will be used once or twice, and then left idle. I do still have (from the Canon days) a 580-EX flash and a OC-E2 cord - my question is: can these be used on the x-E1 without damage to any of the components?

I understand (I think:confused:) that the TTL will not be available, but that's fine - I'm simply concerned about the risk of damaging the equipment.

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X-T1 & XF 60

DSCF0773 copy1_openWith_DxO.JPEG
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After having my 50-140 nearly fall off my tripod (camera strap fortunately still around my neck!), I replaced both the tripod and lens foot. Looking closer, for some CRAZY reason Fuji seems to have tapered the foot of the lens that comes with it. Why? How can you blow a basic thing like this? Dunno, but this means that unless you have a tapering tripod formed head plate... maybe you'll want to do as I did and grab a ReallyRightStuff plate to replace it with a straight non-tapering edge on both sides for a very secure mount. Price ain't bad.

BTW, RRS tripod and head prices... well, I'll say it - yes, they're bad. Ouch even. But after a photo safari with a friend who had one... gotta say their gear is first rate while mine was... well, adequate at best. Recommended highly. Lightweight, but heavy duty. Go this route and your tripod's gonna run close to the value of the camera but I'd doubt you could do better. Again... ouch. But I suspect in the long run, it's a once in a lifetime investment.

Problem of course is I don't use a tripod all that much, but maybe that's a failing on my part and a decent one like RRS offers would up the ante, make it easier to swing, and I'd go there more often? It's a thought. We'll see.
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XPro1 and XF55-200mm today trying to stay unstuck :cool:

Thanks for looking,
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My wife and I were visiting family in St. George, Utah, back in March when presidential candidate John Kasich held a town meeting. We decided to go see a real live candidate, and I wanted a chance practice some "photo journalism" and to try out my recently purchased XP1 and 18-135.


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Hi all, i Have three Fuji lenses to attach to my X-e2, do i need firmware for each? if i were to go by latest there are 2 separate for 2 of my lenses. i have the xf 18 -55 and the xf 55-200 both suggest different firmware available from same date! I also have the 35mm f1.4....currently my camera shows body vers. 4.00 and lens vers. guessing i should have lens vers. 3.12 for the 18-55....but the list suggest i should have Lens vers. 1.12 for the 55-200, both updates released same day.... Help...Please
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Hi. So I just switched to the fuji x-t10. At the moment I am using my old olympus 50mm f1.8 with my x-t10 for some portrait fun, the adapter im using has no AF Confirmation chip. My question is, is this the reason I can't zoom in during live view to check for focus? I use to on my canon and it was fine, id zoom in live view to check focus and snap my picture. If this is the case, is there any adapters out there or way to do this? If not I guess I will have to invest in native X mount lenses. I really like zooming in to confirm focus.
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Some of us have been discussing scanning old slides in a couple of threads over the past few days, which prompted me to dig out some of my old slides to find my earliest image (worth showing). Share your earliest creations here.

Gargoyle, Notre Dame Cathedral, Paris, France. The image below was taken in March, 1959. I was sixteen years old at the time, and the slide was taken on Kodachrome with an Agfa Silette 35mm camera I had gotten for my birthday the year before, I think. Scanned today on Nikon LS-2000 scanner, PP in CS2 consisting of auto-adjust in levels, cropped to remove frame edges, and unsharp mask.

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I recently picked up an Olympus 35RD and shot my first test roll. These were developed at my local lab which I quickly digitized with a digital camera then inverted in LR.

There are these prominent brown streaks across the frame that seem to be somewhat consistent in pattern (see first two images.) The third image from the same roll however doesn't show any of those streaks.

This doesn't seem to be a light leak problem since they're brown but I could be wrong. Does anyone what could have caused this?

Thank you!



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I found this old schoolhouse in the Helderberg Mountains, upstate New York. No one was around and the door was openable. More photos to follow.
X-E2 and 10-24
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Besides my regular photography, I love combining my images with my artistic side. This is ground cover rose blossoms, taken with the 50-140. A watercolor texture was applied, then I had fun with the blending modes, then feathered hard edges somewhat. I think this blending mode might have been Hard Light.

_BAL1892-Wild Rose.jpg
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I am in flash limbo, need a TTL flash but holding off on hopefully a more feature option like the i60. Currently using other flash options in manual and auto but really like having ttl in quick draw scenarios. I know it's been said a million times before but why does Fuji continue to ignore such a vital piece to their system?

Any of you insiders have an idea of a release date on the i60. I first saw May but now BH has a July 25th date.
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A few B&W favorites from an outdoor session last week. Taken with the X-Pro2, 56mm and 35 F2.

DSCF3644.jpg DSCF3753.jpg DSCF3813.jpg

Saved as RAW images, converted to black in white with Lightroom CC's ACROS+G Filter profile, and calibrated for contrast.
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My local camerashop has a few new x-pro1 bodies left and they are now going for €750 (incl 18mm 2.0 and leather case). I tried one at the shop and it feels good in my hand. As a matter of fact it feels better than my x100t which I have had for almost 2 years now. Although I enjoy the x100-series... I kinda keep longing for the pro. And use a bit more wide angle and down the road add the fabolous 35mm.
However, it goes against my principle to have more than one camera. Once been on that road, and I like to keep things as simple as possible.
But am I crazy for wanting to buy an x-pro1 and sell my x100t (which is a bit more advanced in terms of new features?).
Please talk some sense into me ;)
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So who is setting up multiple menus? I can see the benefit of different noise reduction choices for different ISOs and I imagine there are similar logical adjustments that could be made. I'd appreciate hearing others thoughts on this.
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Anyone know when the general time frame for that will be?

I chose not to move up to the T from the S because it wasn't worth it for me, but I am hoping the next model will.

I am hoping it has the Zone and Wide Tracking AF's as options to use, along with it being faster, and with 24 that expected?

Thank you ahead of time!
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So i have been looking for an interval timer for my fuji x-a2 for quite some time now, tried various brands and models ranging from cheap £7 jobbies to more expensive £35 timers, none worked on the fuji x-a2, i was almost going to give up hope in finding an interval timer, but i didnt, then i found this...

LCD Timer Remote Shutter ReleaseTirgger RR-90 for Fuji Fujifilm X-T1 X-M1 A1 A2

only £13, so i thought i would take the risk, and the seller does state very clearly that it will only work on x-a2, a2, xm-1 etc.

It only bloody works, and it works when my yongnuo trigger is on top, so now i can set up speedlights and not worry about running back and forth to the camera for self portraits, i can now just set the interval timer to fire every 5 seconds, for as many images as i want!

I do a lot of self portraits but i never liked the 10 second self timer built into the camera's, and there is no way to shoot remotely using the x-a2, but this little gadget will help an incredible amount and i hope to use it this week in an orchard shoot!

The timer takes 2 AAA batteries, and using it is quite easy, self explanatory really, but so cheap too, good old China eh :)
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