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Hi all,

I am wondering if fuji xt1 is capable lock focus to subject like shown in fuji a2? If it does, can anyone tell me how?

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Well, my first Fuji was an X100. Then bought an XE1, sold the X100. Then bought an XPro1, then an XT1, sold the XE1. Then bought an X100T; after a few months, I've sold that too... :-/

Yesterday I was cruising the camera shops in Mebourne and I saw a bashed up old XE1 in a shop. I asked how much...I think it was around $400 or so (you know what camera shops are like!)

I said I'd give $200 for it, so ended up getting it for $250.

For some reason, I feel quite elated! I always loved the pix from the XE1, just forgot until I saw this one :)

I know that a story needs a picture, but I just got in from the airport, so here are the only two I have, just to show she works! The lens was the 56, and I'm embarrassed to say, the leather jacket was on the door in the airport bathroom - glad I didn't drop the camera. ;)


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I am scheduled to take my XT1 in to Fujifilm tomorrow, but wanted to get some feedback from you guys!

I have spotted some "grease" spots on a few of my shots. The weird thing is that they show up on f8 shots but not with the lens wide open. At first I thought that these were on the sensor, but if that was the case then why would the aperture make a difference?

So today I started shooting a whole bunch of tests, including different lenses, different apertures, AE bracketing (all on RAW) and in focus & out of focus shots of the sky.

The blotches show up but not on every frame. Mainly at f8 or smaller aperture. ISO makes no difference and they are visible on wide angles more than tele lenses.

Any comments???

Next, during the testing I discovered a visible hot pixel! The camera is just over 2yrs old.

Can Fujifilm map out a hot pixel, or am I stuck with this forever?

Do you think I should dispose of the camera asap?

Not very happy :(
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Yesterday was my 18th anniversary. My husband and I went down to William Land Park in Sacramento (where we had some of our earliest dates) and took the "Travelling Lens" Jupiter 8 with us to take portraits of each other. Most of these were taken in the WPA Rock Garden.

Emile Looks Awaywm.jpg

Emile and Pillar 2wm.jpg

Emile Pointswm.jpg

Emile Heroic 1wm.jpg

Emile Gold Water Arch 1wm.jpg
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Hi Everyone,

I recently purchased the Lonely Speck SharpStar2 to assist with perfecting infinity focus for shooting stars. I was testing it last night using my 23mm f/1.4 lens.

Last night, I was getting optimal focus around the 5m (white) mark on the DOF scale when shooting wide open. Maybe *slightly* to the infinity side of it, but MUCH closer to 5m marker than to the infinity marker. This was confirmed both by reviewing and zooming in, and was also confirmed visually using live view in that if I moved the focus toward the infinity marker on the lens barrel the stars in live view were definitely less sharp (and also confirmed taking some photos and zooming in to review). Otherwise, the lens performed as expected. There were some coma issues in the corners wide open, that cleaned up by f/2.8. Sharpness across the frame seemed equivalent with the centre being best, but the right and left sides seeming equivalent.

I wonder if maybe this is some design thing with the focus by wire nature of the lens?? And maybe the very fine tuning adjustments I was trying to make.

Sitting at my computer in daylight as I came to write the post (having exhausted google searches), I decided to try again. There are some mountain out my window, however right now, it seems to be much better... optimal focus is *just* to the left of the infinity marker on the distance scale.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

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I hope people do not take this the wrong way, but I just want to give an introduction and goodbye of myself.

I am a Canon user who has been looking for a small travel companion and have tried the Sony A6000, RX100 and had my eyes set on the X100T. After lots of research I found a fairly cheap combo of an X-E1 and 18-55mm. I really wanted a zoom as I only have primes for my Canon and missed a general zoom, after rave reviews about the 18-55mm, I lusted for this lens. (sidenote, I've realized with EVERY kit lens, there are plenty of people who say 'this should not be a kit lens, its too good')

I played with the X-E1 fully understanding its a first gen X series and pretty much everything performs better than this now. I am not bashing its slowish performance or slowish AF system. My 18-55mm takes great pictures, however my 18-55mm was probably defective as literally 1 out of 10 shots were in focus. I soon find out the 18-55mm has OIS/decentering issues, and my lens was almost definitely defective somewhere. The 18-55mm was pretty good when it hit, but not nearly the gem I thought it would be. I move on and buy the 35mm f2. I figure even if I don't use the 18-55, I can use this as my X100 replacement with a 50mm lens.

I get the lens, its SEXY, IQ is pretty good, focusing is better. But I am just not wowed. My Canon 6D with the 40mm pancake is basically the same size and weight and I seem to prefer the images. Fuji has great colors, but I don't know if its Full Frame or what, but colors out of the Canon are just 'deeper'

I ended up returning all my Fuji stuff. Maybe I will come back again. But for now, I am happy to say I at least tried Fuji. Fuji glass is GREAT, Fuji colors are great. Fuji really has a great system going, and I would imagine in a generation or two, Fuji will give everyone a run for its money. Its cost/quality ratio is probably the best out of all manufacturers.
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XPro1 and XF55-200mm hiking around some local State Parks over the last few weeks.

Thanks for looking,
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I just acquired a 50-140, and took it on a road trip in the Columbia River Gorge. Here are a few of my better shots:




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Not much sun but surprisingly strong colours on these boats with Velvia simulation under a grey sky:
DSCF9956Smoking Chimney_edited-1.jpg

DSCF9937Midsummer Spirit small_edited-2.jpg

DSCF9961Blue boat with barrow Two.jpg

DSCF9904 Red Canal boat 1_edited-1.jpg
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Really liking this combination of the X-T1 and Zeiss 32mm lens

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I've switched from a nikon DSLR to a fuji x-t10. I'm finding that I'm surprised sometimes at it not freezing motion. I just did a serious of photos with children at 1/180, F 2 to F 4, iso 1600. They were tossing things and twirling. In several images the moving hand or the pillow is blurred. I would think that 1/180 is sufficient to stop action. What am I not doing right? Thank you for any help!
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PS+ Nik software and a bit cropped and enlarged again.

Apenheul / Apeldoorn / The Netherlands (Hometown)

45 mtr
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I love my X-T1 with the bag of zooms and primes.
I love my X100s. Just throw it over my shoulder and go.
Now I have this damnable little X70.

I just returned from a long weekend trip. Family thing. No real time for serious photography. But I did have several opportunities to do some walkin' around - shootin' stuff.

Time after time, when I had to decide what camera to take along, I would just grab the X70 and slip it in my pocket, leaving my X-T1 and/or X100 behind.

Don't get me wrong, I was very pleased and satisfied with the pictures. But I didn't have the X-T1 and lenses with me like I always would have before. I'm missing shots - right? I must be. Damnable little X70. It might just turn out to be the worst camera buying decision I ever made.
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Hello all,

I do realize that there are several threads about DR, highlight and shadow settings, discussing in some detail what setting will have what effects for Jpegs and/or RAWs. I don't want to go there again, I would simply like to know how you set up your highlight and shadow settings, and what thinking led you there.

I'm leaning to set my highlights to -2, because I often find that the highlights in my Jpeg files lack detail (especially the sky). This setting would be for general-purpose shooting in daylight – "street", architecture, random stuff.

Anybody here who's shooting with that setup? Or is it a stupid idea?
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I am after some advice using a Nikon SB800 flash with my XT10. Reading posts on the XT1 I have my camera set to fixed f5.6 aperture and 1/100 shutter speed, iso at 400. Camera flash is set to commander which i thought disabled pre-flash. The flash is plugged directly into hotshot and set to manual mode 1/8 power. When i take a shot the flash does register on the exposure but only small amount. If I change the flash power from 1/8 up to 1/1 the exposure on the image does not change and remains under exposed. If I use the flash on my Nikon camera with similar settings I get the exposure I would expect based on than flash manual power settings. My guess is that the flash is triggering on the pre flash of the Fuji ttl metering but I thought this is disabled with command mode. Any one got suggestions on what I am doing wrong?
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I have posted another thread below asking for advice, but now that a conclusive end has been reached, I thought I should share my experience with this community, which has been a great resource to me while researching which camera system to buy.

I have a 5 week old X-T1 with a dead ISO dial. You can turn it to any setting, but it won't change the ISO. Spoke with Fuji customer service - nice folks, by the way - they had me check that nothing was locked in the menu, then we did a full reset. Also reinstalled the 4.3 firmware. Nothing working. ISO is permanently stuck at 200. This camera has been treated with kid gloves - never dropped, bumped, or anything other than handled with care.

As I mentioned above, I did a good bit of research beforehand, here on these forums and other places, before deciding to buy into the Fuji system (X-T1 and 4 lenses). Needless to say, I am so disappointed that I have to send my camera in for repair after just 5 weeks of ownership. Yes, I checked with my local camera store - predictably, they told me anything beyond 30 days = warranty claim w/ Fuji.

What's the point of my posting this? Well, I wanted to let potential future Fuji buyers know that despite my troubles, I still love this camera and the photos I get out of it, and will stay with the Fuji system even after this setback. In the event someone else runs into this problem with the ISO dial, you'll know how it turned out for me.
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from street carnival in Oslo

Selfie Times_Good Times_jpg_ DSCF5565.jpg
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After many failed attempt finally got this shot. It was hard since she kept moving around and the lens used was manual one.

Fuji X-E2 with Canon FD 50/1.4 @ f2.0

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View from my window

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From yesterday, all with the XP2 + XF23mm




Thank you for watching, appreciate your comments.
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I just noticed that when in S focus mode I cannot get the hybrid viewfinder to come up. If I switch to C o M it come up just fine. Any pointers? I'm using it with the 16mm 1.4 lens.


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I currently have an X100T, XE2s and XT1. I really find the 35mm EFOV of the 100 quite useful for a lot of things, but I often don't travel with it because I also prefer the flexibility of interchangeable lenses. For a larger kit it's nice to have a second body/backup but the 100 uses different batteries, so more stuff to take.

So I am considering selling my X100T and maybe purchasing the XF23. I don't find myself able to justify having three camera bodies, two battery systems and the inability to change lenses on the 100. I would then have the XT1 and XE2s, same batteries and the ability to share lenses between the bodies. Lenses I currently have are the 14, 18-55 and 55-200. I am thinking the 23 would replace the X100T nicely?

Looking for thoughts that anyone would like to share. I am certain I have not considered everything.
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You owe it to yourself to go to Germany sometime.



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For the few times I've explored the video capabilities of my Fuji X-T1 and X-Pro1, I have struggled with being able to pull-focus accurately from one point to another while shooting. The distance scales on the LCD and EVF are marginal at best. My 23 mm 1.4 lens won't even inspire the camera to display the distance scale, and looking over the top of the camera to see the physical markings on that lens is alkward.

I've seen a couple of devices that can be mounted on "DSLR" lens' that are designed to mark or stop focus points. One that I see is the FocusShifter, Follow FocusShifter - Lens Mounted Follow Focus for DSLR Video and Photography -, and the other is the FocusMaker, FocusMaker – Sharp & Simple Follow Focus for DSLR video.

I was curious if anyone in the forum community has tried either of these two attachments on our X-Series lens'. If anyone could recommend any alternative suggestions, that would be nice too.

In lieu of that, maybe I could make a stop focus ring out of rubber bands and LEGOS. :)

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The new X-T2 looks soooo good, especially the vertical grip with its own joystick.
'Stolen' from the web:

Fuji X-T2   a.jpg

Fuji X-T2   b.jpg

Fuji X-T2   c.jpg
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Hello everybody.

I have Fuji xe2 . and I want upgrade to xpro2, do you recommend? Or stay with ex2 ?

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I think I mentioned before that my old labrador Zack died last September aged 13 and a half. Well we realised that it was time for a new dog and asked a vet friend to let us know if she heard of a lab sale from a reputable source. Upshot was that 3 weeks ago we had a 250km trip to view two 5 week old puppies. We chose Ben - but we could easily have ended up with them both. On Saturday I repeated the trip with my son to collect him. This was a re-run of the trip some 14 years before to collect Zack and despite the fact he's now 28 he spent the return trip on the back seat holding this little bundle of fur with a grin from ear to ear. They then spent the rest of Saturday and Sunday rarely out of each others contact.
Taken with the X100s - the images are nothing special but it's great to have the camera to hand at all times.

Ben 1.jpg Ben 2.jpg Ben and Chris 1.jpg
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I have a XT1 with the 18-55mm kit lens, I have only had the camera for about 24 hours now and I am generally very happy with the results. Normally I like to shoot in single point AF mode although sometimes you may miss a shot especially if your taking candid street photography shots when things just happen out of the blue. I tried the Zone AF mode and my results were a bit hit and miss as in out of focus, I pre set my zone in advance just so I know which area it was going to focus on as well. Are there any recommended settings that I need to know about that I may have missed? I have the latest firmware, I mainly shoot in Aperture Priority & I like to control my own ISO.
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Captured on the way home from a birthday party as I wanted to test the low light ability of my 2 week old X-T10.

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I noticed that the Lilac DSCF1425.jpg off my deck seemed especially happy today.
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Maybe this might be better in the Adapted Lens forum, but this might work here just as well, so here goes.

Will Lensbaby composer work with a speedbooster adapter?

I was thinking about this product for a while and curious if anyone might have experience or know if this is even possible.

I was thinking of getting the lensbaby composer for Canon EF mount. I was also thinking of getting a Canon EF to Fuji X Speedbooster Adapter from Fotasy.

I am thinking and hoping that with this combination, I can achieve a few things:
1) Getting the focal length closer to 35mm full frame (has focal length reducer of 0.72x, e.g. 50mm x 1.5 x 0.72 = 54mm.)
2) Getting the aperture performance also closer to 35mm full frame
3) With above benefits, I believe there will be less cropping of the final image and therefor you will have even more of the special blur and sweet spot effect and may actually have more area within the frame to adjust and compose a unique shot.

What do you think? Should or will it work? Or, because of the nature and physical design of how a speedbooster (essentially a focal length reducer) works, it will not translate so smoothly as I am hoping or anticipating?

I just want to make the purchase more worth it.. otherwise, if you get the exact Fuji X mount, you will not inherit the full benefits and effects of the lensbaby because of the crop.. and I feel a lot of the effectiveness of the lensbaby effect has to do with how much you can pinpoint the sweet spot focus in relationship to how much more the everything outside of the sweet spot is uniquely thrown out of focus. Get my meaning and where I'm coming from?

Thanks if any insight or your thoughts.
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I shoot X-T1 and Nikon D750. I would like to find an X-PRO2 user in Sydney area (Radius say, 150km) who is interested in a little testing/playing to compare the X-PRO2 to the D750 and if interested to the X-T1.

I am available during the day, most days (by prior arrangement). If you are interested, then send me a PM, or reply to this thread.



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I've been shooting a lot of kids' soccer and lacrosse lately with my X-T1, 50-140, and 1.4x extender. While my AF success rate isn't as good as my Canon 6D with a 70-200 f/2.8 IS II and 1.4x extender, it has gotten a lot better, and the shots I do get are pretty great! The one thing that I think would help the 50-140 is the focus distance limiter that the Canon 70-200 has. Except for the occasional missed focus on the background, the Fuji setup does quite well in AF-C with prefocus on, except at more extreme distances, where it often hunts a second or so before locking focus. The Canon lens has a hardware switch to limit the focus distance to 2.5m to infinity instead of the standard 1.2m to infinity. Is this something that might be possible for Fuji to incorporate via a firmware update so an additional menu item appears? According to LR, of the 67 keepers I took today, all but 10 were over 120mm. (Remember the 1.4x is on too.) I would love a menu setting that would limit the possible focal distances to something at the longer end, if that could possibly narrow down the range that the autofocus has to hunt for.

Is this even possible? If it would increase AF accuracy and speed, I would love to see a menu option for something like this appear when this lens (and extender if I'm not being too greedy) is attached.
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Any idea when Fuji might start offering better pricing on the XT-1 since the XT-2 will probably be announced soon? Looked today and it's at full price....
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I noticed today that my X-T1 and X-Pro 1 meter different and exposure different in the same light/scenario. My X-T1 shows me an exposure of 1/100 F1.2 and ISO 1250 and my X-Pro 1 1/100, F1.2 and ISO 2500. The shutter is set to minimum 1/100, auto ISO. Is this because of the different sensors? Anyone else have noticed similar results?
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Hi there, I bought an used body this week; all seemed fine (7200clicks), took some testshots today with some adapted CZ-lenses; besides the focuspoint (grrr!) everything seems okay.

But I believe there occured a shutterproblem; it makes strange sound and on B it takes too long too close.. Grmpfh..

Also the VF stays black/dark when I shot a pic longer then would be normal, like half a second or so...but the pic is good. Not too light.

I'll go back to the seller, but anyone familiair with this...?
He said it had the latest updates.
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