I just got the aforementioned combo, and noticed that when shooting against backlight the flash tends to overexpose the subject, as if it were trying to be a key light. My Nikon flashes had a "TTL-BL" mode, but I don't see anything like that on the EF-42. I can mostly correct it by using the EV dial, but I'd rather not have to do things that way. I notice that it's particularly bad when using the flash off-camera on a Canon TTL cable, which otherwise seems to work perfectly. (The flash knows what lens is on the camera etc.)
Am I missing something?
I am going to trial and probably buy Capture One Pro to convert Fuji RAW files. I'm writing to ask if some of the Capture One users here have seen benefits setting up a RAW files "ingestion" scheme that allows easier alternative processing.
We'll see if it offers any benefits for my Canon images, too, but I really want an alternative to Adobe. I have already tested PhotoNinja, and as a Windows user I do not have the Iridient alternative. (Yes, I know Iridient's developer is working on a Windows version.)
Lightroom offers so many benefits in exporting versions for clients, 'Publishing" for synch'ed web use on my site, etc., that perhaps, like many other Capture One users, I will use the Danish company's software for only certain images. To me, that seems like I should have the RAWs available outside of Adobe's database structure. The new handbook Capture One 9 Pro by Sascha Eni tells us that having XMP files touched by more than one cataloging software leads to problems and that establishing how to keep the data for both versioning and processing edits separate is a crucial early decision made in the use of Capture One. He is clearly warning, I think, users to separate their RAW files into those processed by C1Pro and those processed by Lightroom.
With hard disk space less and less expensive, a dedicated internal spinning drive seems like a place to stage my intake of images when I come back from an assignment. I'd probably continue to keep that first drive organized by date folders. I think I read that C1Pro works best if images to be edited are placed on an SSD for the active editing time. Because I will probably build a new Skylake machine a little later this year I will not now adopt the newer PCIe SSDs. I do have a 1TB Samsung SSD that I can experiment with. This "big" SSD holds the Lightroom catalog and previews but there's a lot of room left.
So, what hardware infrastructure and image file flows have C1Pro users established that allow flexibility of post-processing choices but do not interfere with the work of Lightroom when I have to stay fully inside the Adobe pipeline?
My current LR CC catalog(s) hold about 145,000 image files. I don't know how much of my future post processing I'll be doing in CaptureOne Pro. My professional work is almost all on Canon bodies now. Only a small amount of that work can migrate to the Fuji bodies.
BTW, the PhotoNinja v1.31 demosaicing of the RAF (Fuji) files was way better than that of Adobe and I could not make Adobe's file look as good as the PN effort with on my chosen experiment images. Sure, maybe I could have forced it or learned better technique… In fact the PN code made a few Canon files look better, too.
I used to keep HC-110 around as an alternative to D-76...
I appreciate any thoughts and suggestions.
I may have two paid jobs requiring me to use a very wide angle focal length in the next weeks: a mud race requiring dramatic shots and some industrial facilities.
I'm considering either buying the Samyang 8mm fisheye and the 12mm or the Fuji 10-24mm.
The Samyag combo is 211 dollars cheaper than the Fuji zoom plus I get a wider end and F2 for astrophoto in the 12mm.
On the other hand the Fuji is a zoom, has OIS and autofocus.
What do you suggest? My main use for these lenses would be (in descending order) astrophoto (landscapes), architecture and landscape I have a strong interest in documentary images but I don't think neither of these lenses are fit for that purpose.
I bought my first Nikon SLR in 1998 or so, and I've been a die-hard shooter of the black and gold ever since. I stayed with them into the digital era, and when I was working as a pro motorsports shooter it was with a D3 on each shoulder and a 500/4 on my monopod, and then when I got out of sports and into PR and portraiture I downsized to a D610 and lugged it and a whole bag of glass and flashes to the office every day. Every photo I've ever been paid for, and every shot that I've had published was shot through a hunk of Nikkor glass.
However, I found myself taking and more more of my "personal" photos with my phone than with a real camera, and various "enthusiast" compacts and Micro 4/3 cameras didn't change much.
And then I bought an X100, and it changed everything. Suddenly I could take a real camera everywhere, something with good glass, good controls, and a sensor that didn't fall apart over ISO 800. Suddenly I had files that I could just about publish straight out of Lightroom, with no need for the 20 minutes of tweaking and filtering that I'd been finding myself doing with Nikon.
PhotoCon LA was last weekend, Fuji's event pricing was good, and there was a trade-in thing going on. I checked stuff out Saturday, and on Sunday I went there with a whole backpack full of Nikon gear and left with an X-Pro2, a 23mm 1.4, and a 56mm 1.2. (As well as a free 50-230 and an EF-42.) I haven't done much other than around the house test shots so far, but from what I've seen, I'm convinced I did the right thing. I've got an event this weekend and I'm itching to put my Fuji gear to work.
Photos of "beauty" as a subject in its own right never appealed to me. I was allways looking for that story. It just seems as though on my old days I would like to find a way to express my admiration for the beauty surrounding me, but all I get is emptiness. I keep looking for something more... but can't specify what. Why is this so bloody empty? Why is it just a background or empty stage?
New member and my first picture post! I took this with my recently acquired xc 50-230 (f6.7 1/100 iso 1250 Cropped in a bit). Very cheap purchase and I am surprised at how much I enjoy this lens, I think because it is so light. I also have the xf 18-135 but of course it is much heavier. The reach is less but the ability to crop in and still get a good subject sharpness lessens the difference in a way?? So the weight is the main factor for me.
I suffer from glaucoma and had great difficulty to see the EVF on my X-T1 in bright sunlight. I rarely use the LCD and I can only see it in total shade. I purchased the extended eyepiece (EC-XT L) but this did not help much in my case
My solution uses a Nikon eyecup with an extension that places it in, or very close to, my eye socket when viewing the EVF. This was the only way I could shield my viewing eye from sunlight from any direction.
I've added some images to show the assembly. It’s hardly an elegant thing but It gives me a clear view of the EVF and the freedom to use my left hand on the stop rings of my adapted lenses instead of struggling to shield my viewing eye from the sun.
I’ve used the original silicone rubber eyepiece supplied with the camera, but I first removed the internal metal frame from the extended eyepiece (EC-XT L) and fitted it into the original one. The internal mouldings of the two eyepieces are identical and exchanging the frames is not a problem. I did that because the new frame is more secure, having a latch on its bottom edge.
The extension is a silicone rubber flesh tunnel (a sort of cosmetic aid) which is flanged at both ends. The eyecup is an older version Nikon DK-3 for the FM and FA cameras. The flesh tunnel is cut longitudinally to create an open slot aligned with the eye sensor on the XT-1’s eyepiece. This ensures that eye detection for the EVF/LCD switching is not impaired.
The secret to securely bonding the bits together.
1) The Fuji rubber eye pieces, and the Nikon eye cup, are moulded in silicone rubber.
2) Any additional element must be also be silicone
3) Silicone is difficult to bond. Sugru just adheres, though quite strongly.
I used “Sil-poxy” which seems to be one of the very few suitable products available for this purpose. It’s expensive at £13 for a small 13.6gm tube, but well worth it in my case.
Hello everyone. I'm new here and relatively new to fuji x - my first foray into digital cameras was an old fuji finepix many years ago and then I went with an Olympus E20p as I couldn't afford the then Fuji super dooper whatever it was at the time.
I bought an Xt10 about 6 months ago and various lenses (zooms and primes and one or two legacy lenses) and have been lurking on this forum to soak up all of the shared knowledge (thank you!) I then decided to buy an XE2 to compliment the XT10 for the luxury of having a second camera to use with different lenses without having to change them so often and to see if I liked the style of it. I'm so glad I did - it was cheap and with the firmware upgrade virtually the same as the Xt10 in functionality. Though they are different in style, I like them both.
I'm thoroughly enjoying the x system and have joined this forum to absolve my guilt of being a lurker and become instead proactive and sociable! I shall post my first picture in an appropriate thread and look forward to the thoroughly decent and honest feedback I hope to get with a view to learning!!
My partner bought me the 35mm f2 used from B&H last week (not knowing that they would soon be on sale for $30 less brand new). I had sold my 35mm f1.4 last year because I needed some new gear and it didn't get a ton of use, but I found that I missed it sometimes, and the weathersealing plus improved AF was very appealing.
However, I've noticed that at F2, while pretty sharp, this lens has a TON of dark vignetting (probably a full stop's worth). It's notably better by f2.8 and pretty much disappears by f5.6. I use Capture One instead of Lightroom, but even so, I thought that the corrections built into the RAW file should deal with it if it's the normal amount.
I've seen reviews that say this lens vignettes quite a bit, and ones that say not at all. I've mostly used it with the Fuji lens hood that came with it, although I'd hope that that wouldn't be a factor. If there's something off about this one in particular, that'd be good to know so I can return it. If this is just a characteristic of the lens, I'll just take it into account in my shooting.
So I finally gave in and got a Sigma DP0 Quattro. I'm quite liking it so far but - of course - you have to use their stupid/insane/horrible/useless software to get started with post processing. Unbelievably version 6.3.3 of Sigma Photo Pro seems even worse than usual (yes I know it's hard to believe!) But I can't even get it to start on OS X El Capitan and I've tried two different Macs and multiple attempts to download from scratch. It claims the File Converter software is corrupt every time. I even got it to open once - but it didn't do anything obviously.
Does anybody know where I can get hold of an earlier version (like 6.2 maybe?) that a. might work and is b. compatible with DP0Q files?
ps For anybody not familiar with Sigma Foveon please don't suggest I use Lightroom or something. I will use LR just as soon as I can convert the X3F files to Tiff. I know Iridient is compatible with Foveon Merrill but it's not yet listing Quattro and the sensor is completely different.
I began a street portrait project about twelve days ago that I exhibit primarily on a dedicated instagram account, but also on my flickr . The subjects can be anyone: people I know or strangers. And I include a bit of contextual copy about the person. There's absolutely no arbitrary goal like 52 or 365 per year. I just take them as they come. I know it's not a novel idea, but it's a good process for me. So far they've all been extemporaneous, using available light only, so the results vary. I intend to use flash when the opportunity arises. All have been shot with an X-E2 using various lenses (35mm f/2, 23mm f/1.4, Rok. 85mm f/1.4).
One thing I've learned thus far is that strangers don't like to chit chat when it's raining.
The seventh participant--Heather Holloway--is a jazz vocalist in NYC who I met in April and again this past Saturday when I shot her portrait outside the Rum House in Times Square before her show. Incidentally, I only use surnames for subjects who conduct themselves publicly such as a business owners and performers. X-E2, 35mm f/2 @ f/2, 1/180, ISO 4000.
Dimka's aged Ford tractor image posted yesterday in the General forum inspired me to try something similar. The Ford A image below was taken with my X100 in Mesquite, NV, back in March. I did the initial b&w conversion and aging in Nik, added scratches and noise in CS2, then finished it off in Snapseed.
Building my new kit with Fuji after recently selling off all my Canon gears and having trouble deciding between two lens. With the current rebates going I've decided to go with an X-T10 body and the 35 F2 but I have enough money for one more lens and I can't make my mind up. The camera will primarily be used to take photos of our new born babies(twins) that are coming later this yr. Next spring once the babies are up and moving around I plan to add either the 50-140 F2.8 and 1.4x TC or the 100-400 but in the mean time for new born photos would you rather pair the 18 F2 with the 35F2 or go with 35 F2 and 60 F2.4 or should I just get the 18-55 kit lens with it and the 35F2 and use the additional money towards a good flash?
I have T1 and Pro2. I swapped the cards between them, and the numbering has changed, on T1 from 58xx to 26xx, and on the Pro2 from 1xx to 26xx.
I couldn't find on the menus on either camera how to reset/modify the number.
Would appreciate some help on this.
I think the 50-140 might be my new bff!
I need your help guys. I already have an Xt10 and Im planning to get a 2nd body. Which would be the best option?
Not sure if this is the correct part of the site but here's a question regarding storage:
My NAS has a feature that allows me to click on a folder and generate a web link to it. I can then send this link to friends and family so they can see all the photo's I want them to see. I really don't want to have to upload my photo's online, it's nice having one location for everything!
As the photo's are very large they take a long time to load over the internet, even though we have a decent cable connection.
Ideally I want a "magic wand" that will make all the JPEGs on my NAS smaller so they are good enough for online viewing but that's it. Every folder has a RAW sub folder so I will still have the full resolution file if I wanted it.
I don't have the time to go through every folder, open every picture and make them smaller but I wonder if there is a program out there that can perform a batch process on my files to make them smaller?
Any advice is greatly appreciated!
The Stray Cats of Porto:
(A recurrent theme of mine)
Stray Tiger by Adam Bonn, on Flickr
The Lonesome Stray by Adam Bonn, on Flickr
A Proud Stray by Adam Bonn, on Flickr
Beautiful Stray by Adam Bonn, on Flickr
A Calm Moment on a Stray Day by Adam Bonn, on Flickr
Stray and Nervous by Adam Bonn, on Flickr
Playful Stray by Adam Bonn, on Flickr
Friendly, Beautiful Stray by Adam Bonn, on Flickr
I just joined last night and exited to be here. I've been shooting Nikon for the past 20+ years, digital and analog, bought a X100T last spring and as you can probably can guess already, I haven't used my D800 much in the past year. I have made up my mind - I'm moving to Fuji full time.
Looking forward to meet you all.
Raynox DCR5320 Pro +3
down near chinatown is one of the oldest synagogues . the eldridge st synagogue was built in 1897 and is just beautiful
shot handheld with fuji x100s , all high iso
took a trip to chinatown yesterday . i haven't been there in many years .
it was pretty smelly and dirty in spots but the food was great .
shot with fuji x100s
I recently bought a very lightly used X-Pro 1 as a step into acquiring Fuji lenses after having a succession of smaller fixed lense Fujis. I'm very fortunate to have a neighbour and colleague with a collection of lenses and a willingness to share both his experience and his glass so my uncertainties about whether I should buy the 35mm or the 18-55mm zoom in the current sale can be resolved by trying them both.
Today I only got as far as testing the zoom, principally because I was enjoying using it so much I didn't feel like switching.
Here are a few of the first shots using the X-Pro 1. Now I understand all the talk about what fun it is to use and how great the jpegs are.
My brother-in-law and I took a day to do some shooting around Gloversville and Johnstown in upstate NY. I found Spider Man sporting an XE2 with a Fuji 56. More photos following.
Anyone here have used an X-E1 with the Fuji 90mm lens? I have a 23mm, 18-55mm, and I'm now considering the 90. I was originally going to get the 56mm, but I have the 18-55, which will cover the distance for the time being.
Is the 90mm too large on the X-E1 body? How's the autofocus without image stabilization? Any other thoughts would be appreciated.
On my X-m1 it has the very handy feature that if you set the after shot image preview to continuous you can zoom into the preview immediately, without having to press the play button and then zooming in, this doesn't appear to be the case on the Xp1?