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Portal

Many people at the wall, including IDF soldiers. More here.

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I recently submitted a portfolio of current work and was accepted to participate in the Observe Dallas Workshop. A documentary/street photo art project. I was scouting locations and working on project ideas, when I snapped a barber shop from across a multilane street.

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I leaned against a parking meter waiting for another passerby, when a man emerged from the barber shop and approached me. “You can’t take pictures of my barbershop!” I politely engaged the man. Explained the project and was even able to point to a nearby building that was part of the project.

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He would have none of it. “I’m gonna beat your ass and break your cameras”. I maintained my composure and never broke eye contact during his repeated threats. He finally walked back to his shop.

I called 911. Police were dispatched and I told them of the threats. The police asked if I wanted him arrested, I asked if they could explain the law to him and assure me that he was not dangerous.

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Spent the rest of my morning scouting locations and working out project ideas.


Thanks, Dallas PD.
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Just picked up an X-T10 and overall I like it but find it a little difficult to get a good grip on it. What thinking about selling it on for an X-T1 but thought I would find out if others have a similar issue and what solution you are using;
Thumb grip (lensmate, thumbs up, etc.)
Metal grip baseplate
Leather half case

All pictures welcome as well.
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Hello everyone,
I am new to ACTUAL photography. My present gadgets are a Fuji X-T10 and 18-55 lens. I am going to buy a Rokinon 12mm f2.0 lens. But I am stuck in another place. I have a few questions in mind. It will be great help if someone could just help me to find out those answers.
But first, let me briefly tell my situation. I want to buy a portrait lens. While the 55mm end of my present lens serves me well, I want those creamy bokeh. But I am also very short on budget. So....

Q1. Should I buy cheaper lens like new Meiko 50mm f1.2 or wait for a bit more to gather money to buy Rokinon 50mm f1.2 or even wait more to be able to buy fuji 50mm f1.4? Or how about fuji's cheaper 60mm lens? or even slower fujinon 70-230mm lens? Or should I opt for some other 3rd party lens like Canon or Nikon and maybe use them with an adapter? Or should I go for a vintage one altogether? Listen I know very well that the more you will spend, the better quality and options you are gonna get in a lens. So I need suggestions on the basis of cost-benefit ratio because for some less money, I can live with maybe-not-the-best-but-better-quality lens. And one other thing, many people adapt lens to their newer camera because they already had those lens, so it is very much justified for them. But as I want to buy a new one, will it be justified for me to buy other OEM or 3rd party lenses?

Q2. Which is the best online market to find vintage lens in UK and USA? Also any good site for vintage lens reviews? To look for vintage lens, which brand should I rely on most? And what adapter system should I buy?

Q3. I live in a country where Canon and Nikon cameras are mostly used. So should I import some adapters so that I can buy or use those lenses on my Fuji camera. maybe in future? If so, which adapters should I buy? I understand most newer Canon and Nikon lens don't include aperture ring which I think may become an issue for me, isn't it?
Q4. As I said, I already own the Fuji XF 18-55mm f2.8-4.0 lens and taking portraits with it is a good experience for me. So should I go for another 50mm lens with a higher aperture or should I go for higher focal length? As I said, please consider the cost-benefit ratio.

Well I know my questions are bit disorganised and amaturish. But I am stuck. So I will really appreciate some help. Thanks in advance.
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I am wanting to sell my 35F2 since I never use it. And when I was taking images for eBay I noticed 2 specs of what seem to be dust. At least I think it's dust. I know some lenses throw off a small reflection that look like dust. I'm posting a pic...can you guys take a look and give me your opinion?

Also, if it is intact dust, what would a good price be to place on the lens? I've never noticed any spots showing up in the images I took with it. But I don't want to deceive a potential buyer either.

thanks!

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Taken January 29 this year. How things have changed! I hope this will cool some of you suffering in this awful heat! NEX 7, lens Vivitar 90mm, f2.5 Macro, (Bokina)

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Thank you for viewing!

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Just messing around. Never thought to put this lens on even though I've had it for years. It did OK, in fact I like it quite a bit. Time to fool around with some adapted lenses I think.

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Summer Deck
by David, on Flickr
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I used to own this lens in Minolta mount but sold it when moving to Fuji because it had no aperture ring. I've often wished for it back and finally decided to buy a used one in Nikon flavour along with a cheap adapter. I pottered around the garden with it today and discovered the focus ring is a bit stiff and high geared. This combined with a tiny bit of slack in the adapter mount makes manual focus less easy than I remember it being. Maybe my copy is not a great one...? Still, I'm glad to have re-acquired it. Does it qualify me for membership of the adapted lens club?
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So I dropped my X-T1 and 16-55 yesterday straight onto tarmac ( :eek::oops::confused::() It fell a couple feet max and the lens hood has two specific scuff marks, imprinted with the red of the ground it landed on, plus one scuff on the body. No other marks though and glass seems good so I think the lens hood took the initial brunt.

I carried on using it after and it seemed perfectly ok but is there anything I should watch out for?
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Put my 16mm through its paces as its been a bit ignored lately. Loving it's bokeh

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Interesting to note that Amazon Italy and Amazon Germany are offering the X-T2 for pre-order but Amazon UK, Spain and France have not done so yet.
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I apologize for posting what gas more than likely been gone over in many posts.
simple question is the auto focus on the xpro 2 that much better? That would be good news to me if it was.
How about the soon to be released X-T2 and opinions.
thanks

Alfonse
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I've had this lens in my hands for a fair few months now but for one reason or another (mainly loss of motivation/mojo whatever you want to call it) I have not given it or my photography a run out for a while. I had forgotten how quickly you can get rusty but here are a few just to stretch it's legs, as it were.

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What is the most efficient way to deblur a picture using Photoshop CS6? Can anyone recommend the whole technique?
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Just learning this camera. So far so good.[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
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Since the rumor mill is very insistent that a medium format Fuji is on the way, I was just sitting here pondering how amusing it might be to put adapted lenses on that.

I'm not even thinking about adapted medium format lenses. That's too easy. I'm thinking about 35mm SLR lenses. So, the image circle is too small for the sensor -- but we know how to deal with that, right? Somebody could make a tele-converter to expand that image circle for full coverage. Or more interesting, just use it as-is with all the vignetting -- and then you can crop down however you wish. You could crop to a square image and use that lens in a way that was never possible on a SLR before

OK, this is probably ridiculous simply from an economic standpoint, because who is going to spend all that money on a MF body and then put old 135 format lenses on it? Doesn't make sense... But that probably won't stop someone from doing it. And it's fun to contemplate the possibilities, anyhow.
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Hi, this is about my ongoing search for a good, usable full frame standard zoom to put on my Sony A7R. I'm posting here, because the results are even more applicable to crop sensors, where the corner issues won't apply.

I spent a long time fiddling with the Canon FD 35-105mm fixed aperture f3.5 - well regarded as one of the sharpest zooms out there. Its weakness is, in my copy, poor wide open performance at 35mm, and a persistent de-centring that leads to some softness in a patch at the left edge of the picture at the wider end. However, as a 50-150mm equivalent f3.5, it is exceptionally sharp and contrasty. But, for all my fiddling, adjusting infinity focus, etc, I couldn't make the de-centring go away, so that spoils it for me for full frame.

Next up I got a Tamron SP 35-80mm f2.8-3.8 with true macro ability at the tele end. This lens is just amazing for corner to corner resolution. Its weakness is a slight loss of contrast wide open, but other than that, it does pretty much everything I want in a standard zoom - great close-up performance, good contrast and sharpness when closed down one stop. It's also much smaller and lighter than the Canon. Both these lenses can be got for around $100 or so.

Here are a few preliminary results - all these pix are crisp at 100%, but I hope these small jpgs will give at least some idea. So far, this is the best standard zoom I've tried on full frame, easily trouncing the Sony/Zeiss 24-70 f4 except in the central region of the image. The fourth image is sharper than an almost identical frame taken on the Canon FD 50mm f3.5 macro at f5.6 :eek:

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Hi all.

My name is Matt and I've been shooting on Nikon since the 70's, switched to the 5dmkii when it came out with HD video recording.

Co-wrote a book on shooting video on your DSLR:

From Still to Motion: A photographer's guide to creating video with your DSLR (Voices That Matter): James Ball, Robbie Carman, Matt Gottshalk: 9780321702111: Amazon.com: Books

Spoke at NAB and various other venues like documentary sessions on shooting video on your dslr as well.

Ran my own film/video production firm for over 20 years:




Returned to Nikon when the D810 came out because the menus and everything else made sense to me.

Really enjoyed the images I got out of it:


But like a lot of you, I got tired of dragging the "boat anchor" around.

So i bought the Xpro 2, 16mm prime, 32mm prime, 56mm prime, and 18-135mm zoom and have been enjoying them so far.
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Hello all. Trying to get full size images to transfer and made the setting change in menu however it says file not found when I go to transfer. Any suggestions.
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Hello all,

My question is pretty simple, but I haven't been able to find a very clear-cut answer.

Is there a difference, either measurable or noticeable in real-world use, between the AF on the X-T1 and X-E2s? My understanding is that they have the same AF hardware (phase detection pixels in the center, contrast detection elsewhere) on the sensor, so any difference in handling would be due to firmware or AF algorithm.

Can anyone confirm or share their experiences? Esp. Regarding the XF 50-140.
I'm preparing to choose between the two cameras as a replacement for my battered and aging X-E1, and this is the only point where I don't feel sufficiently informed about the differences.

Thanks.
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X-Pro2 with raw compression is adding RAF files to DNG import.


I'm using Lightroom 2015.6 Camera Raw 9.6. With camera sn: 61A06322.


After import of raf files. I find some extra raf files (Show in Explorer) among the converted dng files. No problem with X-Pro2 uncompressed files.


I have eliminated:

Memory cards - brand; size; speed.

Other cameras - X-T1; X-Pro1;Nikon D800

Import from iPad/ Lightroom Mobile.

Other camera setting - card slot (RAW/JPG); Sequential, etc.; Image Size; Image Quality and others.


I discovered this when I remove folders in Lightroom they where still in Explore. Because the raf were still in the folder.


So, if you are using "Lossless Compressed" and converting dng in Lightroom, check your Explorer folder and tell us if you have the same problem.


Thank you all,

Jerry
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I sold my X100S and bought a XE-1 with Fujinon 35mm f1.4 R,I din't like the X100S so I guess it's a matter of taste. Xe-1.jpg
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Hi, I am new to this. I currently have an X-T1 and would like to know if there's any kind of adapter to use Sigma lenses. Thank you all !
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I want to report my successful attempt to tether a X-T1 to my Mac with Lightroom. I don’t own a T1 (my ax is an E2) but I occasionally have assignments that require tethering. On those occasions I use my Nikon D300 (or for one client rent a D7100 to get 24 MP). So tethering is a key determinant in purchasing a T2.

The good news. T1 tethering in Lightroom works just like any other camera, exactly what I wanted. Bad news was the struggle to get there. Here is my experience:

Software: Confusion abounds. There is a new plug-in, Version 1.2. Apparently it is “free” if you have already paid for HS-V5 for PC. $29 if you want it new for PC or Mac. Unfortunately various Fuji pages have various instructions. For example, you need to purchase Lightroom 5 or 6, which I think could worry those who have Lightroom CC. One page says the T1 needs to be upgraded to version 4.30 or newer, and elsewhere, 3.11 or newer. If you finally click the right link on a Fuji page, you will go to the Adobe Add-ons store, and if you click the blue $29 you can purchase it, but….

Even though I have the newest CC, it didn't automatically load as promised. The next day I clicked on the back up link for a direct download of the app to install manually. It was .zxp file. I should have Googled what a .zxp was; would have saved me some time. However after clicking on it several times and trying other tricks I went to Adobe help desk chat. That was a satisfactory experience, though time consuming, as the agent clicked around on my screen for a while. I don’t think he/she was sure what the problem was either. Finally gave me a .zxp EXTRACTOR to unzip the file. Duh! After that it popped right in.

The rest was EASY! With the help of Tempe Camera (which loaned me a T1) and TetherTools who loaned me the proper cord, I was able to demonstrate tethering at a local ASMP meeting. The only slowdown was that, following the advice of another poster here, to “follow instructions exactly,” I tried to “Select PD SHOOT AUTO for USB MODE.” I guess those instructions came from the same page which said I need the 3.11 firmware, because the newest menu has something like “Save PC DATA” (can’t tell you for sure as I no longer have the camera to look on the menu; it's toward the bottom of the set-up menu). Then you get some similar options.

So the process could have been easier. But DAMN, it works. I see a T2 in my future.

NOTES: Tethertools.com is a great resource. Go to their site, click “Search by Camera,” then “Software Finder” select the Fuji T1 and your OS, and keep clicking and you will get (unfortunately) to a Fuji page. This page says it’s Version 1.1.0. (why am I not surprised?) even though it has the publication date of June 2016. Now, look in the box that says PRECAUTION (where else would you look?), and at the bottom you’ll find links for PC and Mac software. THIS takes you to the purchase page.

(I do know many of you will be disappointed that other software, esp. Capture One, isn’t tethering T1 yet, and that no other Fuji X cameras (including T10) will tether. But at least this is a start. Tether Tools would be a good resource to check for future updates.)
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Hello All,
before I bring my lens in for repair I thought I would run it by this forum.
My 60 mm 2.4 works fine on full auto, fine on shutter priority, but will not work on full manual.
When I turn aperture ring nothing happens, well actually is seems to be staying in shutter priority mode.
Whats up? Am I forgetting something here?
I also have two bodies and the lens reacts the same on both, so its not the body
Anyway firmware is up to date 3.10 for the lens and 3.61 on the body.
Thanks very much
Alfonse
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Hello,
I have a new 400mm lens and don't have a UV filter for it yet. I like them mostly just for protective purposes. I don't want to go the cheapest route but don't want to break the bank. What is a good brand to look at? B+W seem to have a wide range, as does Tiffen. Just not sure what exactly to look for.
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Another great strap/wrist strap combo for our daughters X70. These are great products with terrific,fast customer support. Have them on my XP1, XE2, XP2 & X70. Great that they can change out so seamlessly

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Jaffa Road is a main thoroughfare through the heart of Jerusalem. More here.

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Hi

Is anyone aware of a programme apart from Lightroom that allows you to apply the film simulation modes to a RAF file. I remember in the old days you could do this in Hyper Utility

Thanks
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Much of the traffic here on Leica lenses and Fuji X cameras seems to come from a few years back when the XF line-up was limited and Fuji was the new kid on the block. I am curious whether the broader lens line up of Fuji XF lenses has impacted those using Leica lenses on their Fuji's. I'm focusing on Leica - but broaden it to any lens maker - to ask whether use of adapted lenses is being done here to utilize existing owned stock, or whether folks are actually going out and acquiring lenses to adapt as a preference - whether to fill a gap in Fuji's line, to use in place of Fuji's line up, or as part of cross-pollination - using a set of lenses for more than one camera system.

Since for my part, I sold off everything to go into Fuji, for me the venture has been to fill in a gap in the prime line-up. Zooms are okay, but also take more room in a carry bag than a couple of primes (not always). So I'm curious especially whether this whole adapted lens bit is a fading reality or not. Thoughts?
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X-Pro2, ISO800, f2.8, cropped.

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