I'm a new x-t1 owner and my extremely amateur photography lust, that has been dormant for a decade, has recently resurrected.
My x-t1 has been set for the eye sensor option. Last night I noticed that when the camera is set down, the display screen is staying on for the full 2 minutes before shutting off. If it is tilted backwards to about a 45 degree angle, the screen goes black, but when it is set back up, it comes on. Before last night, I don't remember the screen staying on so long. The camera itself seems to be getting pretty warm. I thought that, prior to last night, the screen was going black when I was setting the camera down.
Last night I had started reading thru the book "The Fujifilm X-T1 111 X-pert Tips" & changed a couple things, but I don't think I changed anything that would have affected the display in this way.
Has anybody had issues like this and/or knows how to fix it? Or is this the way the display works?
I have been setting up back-button focus but, when I'm in manual focus two screens appear on the lcd ?? Why does that happen and can I just make one screen, since one is too small.
I'm new here.
Quick intro: about 6 years ago I've moved from Nikon to Olympus. Initially only for the second body, getting a PEN E-PL5, which has been my best friend for a while, especially for the pics of my honeymoon.
I've then fallen in love with m43 and sold all my gear to get a EM1.
Now I'm shooting with those 2 bodies and a bunch of very nice lenses:
12 f2, 25 1.8, 45 1.8, 60 2.8 macro, 14-150 II, 12-40 2.8 and 70-300.
I've to honestly admit that I've never been really disappointed by it, actually the opposite.
I've always proudly defended the smaller sensor and always thought I didn't need it larger.
Only, recently 2 major things have happened:
1) a friend let me use his Leica M9 for a week
2) I've been disappointed by the recent releases by Olympus (Pro heavy lenses, expensive EM1 II and in general I'm having some concerns about the future of m43)
To make a long story short.
I can't stop thinking of getting rid of the E-PL5 (and maybe also of the 25 1.8) to get a X-T20.
I love the design, I love the idea of finally trying the Fuji colors, film simulation and overall its famous jpgs. But more importantly after having tried the Leica I now for the first time in years want a bigger sensor (for different reasons).
1) I'll be travelling to Hong Kong in 2 weeks. Do you know if the X-T20 has been released there yet? I've googled but can't find an answer. Also, despite some comments I think that I may actually save a couple hundreds dollars purchasing there, but I value your input. Warranty isn't such a big factor for me.
2) Do you think I'll manage the 2 bodies of 2 different brands? I was thinking to get either the 23 f2 or the 35 f2 or the 27 2.8 pancake to complement the Fuji. I can't afford to purchase 2 lenses at the moment, so no kit lens. Also, I don't want to generate confusion with the Oly. I can go for a prime (maybe the more versatile 23 f2) and then see what happens later on
3) since some of this is to get also some smoother bokeh should I instead go for the longer focal length and maybe get the 35 f2 (or even think at the 1.4)? Otherwise will I notice the difference with the Oly lenses? On the other hand I would like the Fuji setup to be as portable as possible since it substitutes my PEN.
4) my (expensive) alternative is forget about all of the above and get a PEN-F. I like the design, but still can't stop thinking at it being overpriced and everytime I end up keeping my older PEN
Trying to use camera in the studio with lights. At the setup that I want to use I can not see the scenes through view finder or rear screen. What setting do I need to change? Thanks
Is there already a good grip dedicated to X-T20 ?
I have an xe2 and am looking to purchase a lens appropriate for close up/macro photography. At the moment I just have the regular 18-55mm lens the camera came with. Can anyone recommend a lens for this? Happy to get new or second hand.
Thanks in advance.
The POV starts around the 3:45 mark!
Links to download the images are in the description.
I just picked up both the conversion lenses and was wondering if anyone knows of a metal lens cap similar to the x100 series metal cap? Right now I like the feel of the metal cap over a clip on.
They're all shot with X70
...so I was in NYC over Christmas and on the last day of the trip I walked over the Brooklyn bridge to take shots back towards the city and get some good long exposures of the water. I was cold as hell and I wasn't wearing gloves. In my fumbling to get everything setup for the shot, I accidentally set the camera into toy camera mode. I always shoot raw and never use any of the filter modes on the camera. It wasn't until I got back to the warmth of the hotel room that I noticed my screw up. So here are two pics salvaged as best I could. Thoughts?
I met this character a few weeks back, carrying his trumpet through the Arndale Centre. I asked for a picture and he agreed. He then waited for me and said did I want to hear him play as it would be a memory to go with the picture. He played a few tunes for my wife and me and told us that he had started out with only the mouthpiece playing scales. Once he'd earned enough from busking he bought the trumpet! I met him again yesterday on Deansgate and had my Fuji with me (last time it was my Nikon FM2 so I'm waiting to develop the film)
by Robert Michael Poole, on Flickr
Probably you guys have seen this before. I have looked at several threads but wanted to ask an updated opinion
I currently primarily use the 16mm 1.4 on my XT2 for almost everything. This lens is a workforce and a dream to use.I have done portraits with the 16mm and am happy with it so maybe I should just leave it....
I did see I like the ~55mm range for portraits on the 18-55 I have but thought maybe I should get an extra punch for that range or maybe something else for a portrait worthy lens... I will want a portrait champion for the upcoming baby! thus asking for the 16-55 or the 56?
I am paranoid about changing lenses (dust on the sensor) thus the 16-55 made the list so maybe I can leave it on the camera more than the 56? But the 56 does have that 1.2 (no WR)..... I do like primes..... and maybe I should stop being paranoid about dust with lens changing...
I know some like the prime only setup... for example 16, 35, 56.... and some swear about the amazing versatility of the prime zoom 16-55 that is also WR....
Current lenses with the XT2 and booster
Thanks for the input team.
Yesterday I was at an airshow and I noticed that I have trouble keeping the eyepiece on my eye while tracking fast moving airplanes. That's probably because the lens is so heavy.
So if I don't have the eyepiece right on my eye I can't see the whole frame and can't track precisely anymore. Since the X-T2 and the booster grip I think the hardware would be up to the task.
Any ideas for a more forgiving type of eyepiece, maybe even with magnification? I guess the ultimate solution would be a gimbal and a tripod but that gets hard to use when you have to shoot straight up.
I hope the question makes sense.
All of a sudden I seem to be having problems on both cameras that I own, that I've never had before.
1st is with my X100t - Whenever I take a shot, it then takes about 4-5 seconds before I can activate the little green focus area box again. The little light on the back is flashing.
2nd on my X-E2 - I've started getting the message "Memory Full" all the time even if I only have 20 or 30 pics on the card. Once I delete a couple I can then start snapping away before it appears again.
- I am using a Sandisk 16GB 95MB/s 10 card on both systems.
- I recently bough an imac and was wondering if this was anything to do with the problems.
Yesterday at an airshow I noticed I can zoom much quicker and more precise if I hold the hood and move it in an out instead of using the zoom ring. Is anybody else doing this and are there any concerns about doing damage to the lens?
How do I enable Macro in my camera (Fuji X-T20) using the 18-55mm lens?
Is their a way to set the xt2 so I can press the ae button and have both ae/al locked without having to hold the button down ? I have already set the feature to work but, I was wondering if I could do it without having to hold the button like the xt10.
I recently purchased a CV 15mm f/4.5, first version. I used primarily on a Fuji X-Pro 2 with the official Fujifilm M-FX adapter. The lens behaves well there, and the lens markings seem accurate. Infinity focus seems close to where the lens reports it to be.
That being said, there always been has been some softness and a lot of field curvature.
By curiosity, I bought a cheap M-Sony E adapter to mount on my Sony A6000 (K&F concept).
And the surprise is that infinity focus on that system was where the lens reported 1 meter (instead of infinity). You could go past infinity on that setup. And when I'm done focusing on this combo I get slightly better results than with the Fuji setup. (more uniform sharpness on the image)
What am I seeing here? Can the sensor design alone explain such a difference, or am I seeing an adapter issue?
Hi , I've been saving for a long time and now have funds to buy one or the other - Not sure which one. I know that the F1.4 has superior optical quality particularly in the corners but is the F2.0 far behind. Thanks for reading this and any replies received.
Hi everyone... this is yet another thread about XF lenses, in-camera jpeg conversion vs raw....
Here's the deal: I had some time to spare and after harvesting a couple of 50-ish lenses over the past weeks, I decided to do a little shootout. So I shot the same pic, at the same (almost) aperture and SS. Then I compared in LR looking at center, edge and corner sharpness, micro-contrast, an details.
I have only one XF native lens that can shoot at 50mm, it's the 18-135mm zoom lens; The 5 others were X-Fujinon 55mm f3.5 macro, X-Fujinon 50mm F1.9, Cosinon 50mm f1.8, SMC Takumar 50mm f1.8 and SMC Takumat 55mm F2.0 . I shot all lenses at f4.0, except the XF zoom @5.0 (it opens at f4.8 at that FL so I stopped down a tiny bit, sorry, it wasn't meant to be scientific and I didn't want to start all over again)
I started comparing the OOC jpegs and there was a noticable difference in sharpness and contrast between the XF and all the other native lenses. So I said to myself: Ok that's settles it, XF lenses are superior to legacy glass, even the zooms are, period.
Then I went into (moderate) pixel peep mode, and I noticed quite some artifacts of detail sharpening on the XF file especially on foliage and pebbles (this has been discussed in a recent thread, I recall). There were none on whichever of the adapted lenses files. That rang a bell, so I started comparing the raw files, no processing applied in LR, and noticed that the XF file was NOT number one anymore at all. Then I applied my standard custom go-to starter preset and the difference was even more noticable. And when Idid a roundtrip in Iridient X Transformer, it was even more striking especially when the adapted lens had quite a high resolving power (FYI the Cosinon 50mm 1.8 renders extraordinairy detail and "finesse")
Conclusion: I suspect Fuji to apply extra sharpening to in-camera Jpegs ONLY when it recognises a XF lens, and doesn't do so when "shooting without a lens". This might be the effect of the "lens modulation" setting, I don't know. But as far as I'm concerned, it's quite a revelation because well, it changes the way I look at native XF glass.
I was at Castle Combe circuit in Wiltshire yesterday for the speed qualification day, drivers do a lap and a half timed run to achieve their standing for future events, it does mean that they push their cars to the limit and in some cases to the point where fires occur.
It was a good day apart from dropping my XT2 (hit the grass and rolled down a bank, I jumped the fence to retrieve it and was lucky to see "no visible damage" and all works perfectly - well done Fuji).
These are some of the images and the full set can be seen on my blog - 571 Photography: Great Western Sprint
Up to $500 rebate on X-T1, X-T10, X100T
Thru July 1
note that prices may still be updating
Adorama links are below
link to all rebates
Fujifilm X-T1 Mirrorless Camera Body, Black
$799 after $500 Instant Rebate
+ $31.96 in Adorama Rewards
Fujifilm X-T1 Mirrorless Body with Free Accessories, Black
$799 after $500 Instant Rebate
Fujifilm X-T1 Mirrorless Camera Body, Graphite Silver Edition
$999 after $500 Instant Rebate
+ $39.96 in Adorama Rewards
Fujifilm X-T1 Mirrorless Camera XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 R LM OIS Zoom Lens, Black
$1,199 after $500 Instant Rebate
+ $47.96 in Adorama Rewards
Fujifilm X-T1 Mirrorless Body with 18-55mm OIS Lens and Free Accessories, Black
$1,199 after $500 Instant Rebate
$1,099 after $200 Instant Rebate
+ $43.96 in Adorama Rewards
$599 after $200 IR
+ $23.96 in Adorama Rewards
X-T10 with XF 18-55mm f/2.8-4 R LM OIS Lens
$899 after $200 IR
+ $35.96 In Adorama Rewards
X-T10 with XC 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 OIS Lens
$699 after $200 IR
+ $27.96 in adorama rewards
Around Bristol Canals, left Josie to chat and be herself...
XPro2 with XF50 and XF35 Fujicrons
XE1 with the old XF35 f/1.4
I think this interference is from a type of fluorescent light...T5 maybe? At any rate it's not moire and the E2 with 18-55 and same card, etc., works just fine outside the dance studio where our granddaughter's 5th birthday party with her dance buddies was being held. Perhaps another mistake was leaving the E2 in electronic shutter, completely unnecessary in a room occupied with little screaming ladies .