Contrasts in old and new on a sunny day last week XT-1 plus 50-140mm and 14mm

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Hi. Just received the Efx20 and the test light does not stop blinking. Flash works but the yellow test light never glows solid.

Any suggestions

Thank you
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Been researching on the 50-230 OIS II and cannot seem to find any literature or comparison vs the older OIS version.

Wondering if there are any improvements from OIS to OIS II for this lens. Hoping that the OIS II might be able to bridge the 1 stop gap it has versus the 50-200 lens.

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I am considering selling my 10-24. It has been used little and the 35mm dominates time spent on my X Pro.

Checking eBay I only found three used 10-24's for sale with the lowest price being $650.

Would any of you mind saying what you feel a good price is on a used 10-24? Something that is not a steal, but a good value to the buyer.
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DSCF3340 copy3.jpg Some images from the Washington, DC Fish Market.

X-E2, 18mm f/2.

More to follow.
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Headed to Shanghai, Shenzhen and Hong Kong for work and need to travel light with the camera gear. Most of my shooting opportunities will be regulated to late day and evening with a fair amount of street shooting. I'll be taking my XT-1 and a pair of lenses. So far I'm thinking of the 23 and 56 for their low light capabilities. My kit includes 14, 23, 27, 35, 56, 18-55 and 55-200. The 55-200 is off the table for size and weight reasons. Any thoughts on what might comprise a better combo than 23 and 56? Thanks in advance for any input!
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Hey folks. Looking for some input on picking filters for my (future) Fuji X. I'm torn between two options:

1) Lee's Seven5 system.
2) Singh Ray filters in a Cokin P holder.

I like the size of the Lee for portability's sake, but I do find myself liking Singh Ray filters more. I also like that I would have more options with the Cokin holder (different polarizers, more slots) since it seems that LEE is the only show in town for the polarizer on the Seven5.

I can get a 2 stop hard edge GND, 3 stop soft GND, and a polarizer from Singh-Ray for $420 before the combo discount of 10% (Ernesto Santos Recommended Starter kit).

LEE's Seven5 Deluxe kit runs about $600 and adds The Big Stopper, gives me two hard edge GNDs (.6 and .9), a .6 soft edge GND, and the polarizer for $600.

Which route do you guys think I should go?
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Just looking for a small waist pouch that can hold two small primes (23 & 60) for walking around the city. Any suggestions? Don't want anything on the shoulder.

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Ok, I've had the XE-2 for a couple of days now. It's a big adjustment from my usual Canon arsenal. I enjoy the compact size but that's also whats taking used to. I do like the fact that the lens mounted aperture dial and top mounted shutter speed dial force me to slow down a little from my usual pace. This morning I went a little drive through southern Louisiana. I left from Houma, LA and drove through the communities of Pierre Part, Paincourtville, and Napoleonville. These communities were built on fishing and sugar cane.



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So many reports here of wonderful results with various vintage lenses prompted me to dig out my old Pentax-M 50mm f/1.7 SMC (acquired probably the best part of 40 years ago with a Pentax ME when I was a teenager). The result was a happy hour or so in the garden in the Autumn sunshine.

[​IMG]Leaves, on Flickr

[​IMG]Apples, on Flickr

[​IMG]Rose, on Flickr

Follow the link to the Flickr album for some more.

Pretty much SOOC JPGs with some minor PP in a couple of cases - B&W conversion handled by the camera (X-T1). Mostly shot wide open at f/1.7, but the middle one above was stopped down to f/4, when the six-bladed iris makes itself known!
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I didn't even realize the festival was today and tomorrow. Lucky for me I nearly always take my camera downtown with me.

Bear with me as this is the first post I've made since the changes in the forum.

ss 1/1000
iso 640
F4 or F5.6 (can't remember!)
Both images have the same settings.
Wish I could afford the Fuji 90 f2, but this adapted lens will have to do me for a while since my latest purchase is an additional body (x-t10! Woot for silent shutters!!!)
Festival 2.jpg
Festival 1.jpg
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I have just bought the X-T10 and the shop said that CS5 would support the FujiX-T10 but I cannot for the life of me make it work. I have updated my RAW to 6.7.1 but it still won't open the RAF files. Have others had this problem and how have you overcome it please?
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Hello, I just purchased my Fuji XE1, I shoot film, and usually shoot with my Nikon F3. I have a lot of AI and AIS lenses I use regularly, so if I can use an adaptor so I can use the same 3 lenses on my Fuji it would be great. I found this one, has anybody used it? The lenses I'm going to be using with it is the Nikon 50mm 1:1.2 Auto S.C., 85mm 1.8D, and my 20mm2.8D. Also would like your feedback on using this body along side Nikons old AI-AIS and D lenses!

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The other day I posted a bunch of black and white images and later made the comment that they look a little grey but I knew how they looked on Facebook, my Zenfolio account and my own computer in Lightroom and I wondered if something had changed. Well today I'm looking at my desktop - 24" iMac and I have to admit that in general the images look good but not great, any of them. There is no crispness, clarity or just the clean look I'm use to here and everywhere else and this applies to everyones photos, they have full range from white to black, the colors look a tiny bit dull and nothing is underexposed and it just seems the quality in everyones work looks like from a point and shoot, well not of course from a good point and shoot. To be honest it's not a good look to promote or talk about FujiX cameras. It's not bad, it's just not as good as I'm used to seeing. I'm not a troll, I've posted a lot here over the last 2+ years and in love with my XPro1, 35 1.4 and 27mm lenses. Am I the only one? As is, it was something at first I only noticed in my own work but realized today that it's not exceptional enough to want to post images here again. Not trying to cause trouble but wondering if there's some kind of compression of files or something that's new or causing the difference. And-I'm the last person on my block to be a pixel peeper, I'm not that way but this bothers me. I'm having trouble describing the difference so I'll say it just looks like the images were shot with cheap glass. I just checked my images on Zenfolio again and they look great on this screen. Go figure eh? If I'm wrong and it looks great to everyone else, then there's something wrong here with my computer and I'll walk away.
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A rural ditch with the autumn weeds showing a layering of colours that I like.

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Took this last week on a foggy morning in North Haven, Maine. North Haven is a landscape photographers dream and the fog and lighting combined to create a pretty tranquil scene especially when captured with a long exposure. This is one of about 20 shots I took that morning. If you're interested you can see others here Really one of my favorite mornings of shooting ever. Hope you all enjoy!

[​IMG]Wooster Cove by Pete Chapman, on Flickr
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This is from a recent fashion shoot that I did. Image taken with the X-E2 body and the 55-200 lens.
Karlie 3.jpg
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Taken at "The Hermitage" a famous landmark in Scotland

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After a few months of use, the rubber skin and thumb grip on my X-T10 began to show signs of bubbling and peeling loose. Had seen mention of the rubber skin peeling on XT1s, so figured I was seeing the same phenomena.

After a few false starts, I've managed to repair the peeling and secure the skin and grip on my X-T10. The skin and grip are adhered to the camera body using a double-sided adhesive. For whatever reason, the adhesive used in my particular camera does not appear up to the task.

Before starting, I made sure the camera was off and replaced the lens with the body cap. I then carefully peeled the rubber skin from the camera. Though the skin released without much resistance, the adhesive remained stuck to the camera body. Next I dipped a cotton swab in acetone and applied the acetone to the adhesive, being cautious not to allow acetone to enter any holes or gaps in the camera body. Applying acetone to the adhesive may be unnecessary, but I thought it worth a try and it didn't seem to hurt.

After letting the acetone-swabbed adhesive sit for a minute, I began working it loose with a wooden toothpick. The adhesive capitulated fairly easily and I was able to peel it away from the body. Once I had completely removed the adhesive, I used a toothpick to carefully apply Gorilla Super Glue to the camera body. A few drops-worth spread evenly with the toothpick seemed to do the trick - don't overglue. It proved important to apply a thin layer of glue right up to the edges where the body meets the top and bottom plates. After applying the glue, I replaced the skin and exerted even and consistent pressure over the entire skin surface for several minutes to ensure a strong bond.

I was able to clean up unwanted splashes of glue with acetone. Warning: should you try this yourself, avoid any significant contact between the acetone and the rubber grip itself; the acetone will start to melt the grip. I was able to remove a couple of small spots of glue residue from the rubber grip by gently wiping with the tip of an acetone-soaked cotton swab, but even that caused a slight degradation of the rubber surface. The metal top and bottom plates seem impervious to the acetone, however, and both clean up quite easily.

I have used this approach to re-attach both the rubber grip (on both sides of the lens mount) and the thumbgrip and both have remained secure for over a month. While taking your camera apart is not for the faint of heart (and may be inadvisable in the case of a camera still under warranty), this relatively simple fix may be just the thing for those of you dealing with loose or peeling rubber.
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Any X-T10 owners using the XF 50-140mm f/2.8 R LM OIS WR lens with it? How does it feel with the smaller and lighter body of the X-T10? I've read glowing reviews, but they all seem to be paired with an X-T1.
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We spent four days on the central Oregon coast relaxing after a busy month working on our poor house. Nice weather the whole time.




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I live in a very urban/suburban part of north London but Coldfall Wood is a small wood ten minutes walk from where I live. I've been following a guy on Flickr who has fantastic shots from his local woodland (Andy Hough) and I can see that composition can be tricky without an obvious point of interest. Anyway, here are some of my efforts, all with my XT1 and either 18 or 56mm.



3. My wife's favourite from the shoot

4. A walker saw me taking photos and directed me to a small abandoned cemetery on the edge of the park. I got the focus all wrong on this shot but for some reason the softness seems to fit the subject

5. A more standard shot

Thanks for looking, comments appreciated as always.
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Three views across Lake Louise taken three days ago. The greenish/aquamarine colour of the water is caused by glacial 'flour' suspended in the water. Victoria glacier is in the background.



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Horseshoe Canyon near Drumheller, Alberta, Canada



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Just wonder what the readers of this forum have to say on this question given that we are a target demographic by which to inquire.

I am in no way affiliated with Fuji, just was thinking that this is a pretty good question to ask. I do have a strong opinion about whether or not it should have a tilt screen, but wonder what others may think and the reasons why, or why not :)
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Along the coast
Monterey Bay Aquarium
More images from my trip on my blog
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Hello you guys...

I am a professional Photosgrapher and a Photoshop Certified Expert by Adobe and I own an X100 and an X-E1 and love both, especially the X100. I also own a Nikon D800, 14-24 mm lens, 24-70 mm lens, 70-200 mm lens and a 24mm f 3.5 PC-E lens, all Nikkon Nanos

However, 3 weeks ago I tried the Olympus OMD-EM5 mark II for a few days and loved the way the camera handles and focused. Then I decided to compare the RAW files, quality wise, at different ISO settings with my X-E1 and X100...

The X100 and X-E1 won hands down! No sweat!

So a week ago I was given an X-T1 to field test it. I LOVE this camera: the quality is superb!!!!! The best APS-C sensor camera I have tried up to date.

I shot at 6400 indoors and the noise is almost non existent, removed the little that was generated with LR and the shots were amazing, even though the DR suffered a little at such a high ISO

I bought one, and bought the 10-24 mm lens and ordered the 56 mm 1.2 lens. So now I have 3 lenses for the Fuji X-T1 and X-E1

I usually do my stuff with the Nikon D800, but.... the X-T1, in my opinion, is almost as good quality wise, taking into consideration the different pixel count of each camera.

So in my coming trip abroad, I'll only take with me the Fujis: X100 and X-T1

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X-E2 with XF18-55mm, LR and SilverFX
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Dance troupe member participating in a street event

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Hello all,

I just returned from a 3 week trip to the US west coast:
SF - Yosemite NP - Bodie - Mono Lake - Death Valley - Las Vegas - Valley of Fire -Zion NP - Bryce Canyon NP - Canyonlands NP - Arches NP - Monument Valley - Navajo National Monument - Grand Canyon (south rim) - Joshua Tree NP - Highway 1 to SF.
What a GREAT JOURNEY!! As I'm a happy Fuji user I could travel light:

  • X-E2
  • XF 18-55mm
  • XF 14mm
  • Samyang 8mm
  • Lee Filterset
  • Ultralight Pano Head
  • Velbon travel tripod
  • (couple of batteries, charger, SD cards etc.)
  • (iPad, WD MyPassport WiFi)

Here some examples from the trip, more on my Blog

(will post some more in the next days.)
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Lots of people were capturing images on the street performer, very picturesque, however i noticed the clock tower in the background and moved around with the title "Chasing Time " in mind

Chasing Time.jpg
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Lots of people were taking images of the street performer, however I noticed the clock in the background and moved into a position to create the titile

Chasing Time.jpg
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charismatic street performer

Street Happy.jpg
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