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Del Mar California
X100T SOOC BW+Y, Highlights +1, EV -2/3, then set white and black points in Picasa. I like creative restraints!
Starting to get the look from this new camera that I Like.
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Looking for recommendations for what would be the smallest decent camera bag that can hold a standard size iPad Air?
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So I finally had my birthday presented delivered earlier this week. A Rokinon 85mm f/1.4 in x-mount.

here are my first impressions and some candid shots at a local farmer's market:

- build quality is better than i expected (metal barrel)
- easier to focus than focus by wire FX lenses ... it is perfectly damped
- contrary to some reviews I had read online, there is absolutely no play other than the typical clockwise play on the rest of my lenses (I have a small X-E2 body)
- image quality is very sharp
- i love the way the plastic hood snaps on an off. much more reassuring than Fuji's

- noticing some CA and not sure how best to fix them easily, or if a lens profile exists on the web
- lens filter mount seems to be plastic

Photos are SOOC jpegs, in Pro-Neg Std shot 1.4-2.8

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XP-1 converted 820, 35/1.4. LR and Nik 015-Edit.jpg
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I have know this structure for a while and have wanted to photograph it, I have no idea of it's function. Anyway, driving past it this evening, there was a nice sunset, I just happened to have my 90mm Summicron attached to the X-Pro2, and here is the result.

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I want to make a speeded-up version of a drawing being created, but the 1 frame/sec interval (stills) option is way too fast and there is no choice slower than 24 fps in the movie options. And the project doesn't justify sourcing a accessory intervalometer.
I'm thinking the 3 fps "low" burst rate might be about right. I will be shooting normal jpg only and can use electronic shutter, which I think would be easier on the camera. I can combine it in Photoshop.
Does anyone have experience or opinion on whether running burst mode for 5 or 10 minutes (assuming no buffer problem) would harm my X-E2? Thank you.
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Saw this little gem on eBay last two weeks or so, and thought I'd bite the bullet. I'm rather glad I did! Just posting some example images in case someone else is currently deciding whether or not they should get the lens. All SOOC with no tweaking, though I have used Velvia simulation to push the contrast a wee bit.

Won't be the sharpest lens wide open, but at 2.8 and above, I'm pleasantly surprised at its performance. Haven't been using my Helios 44-2 since getting this one. ;)

At f1.4

At f2.8
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Hi there, its my birthday next week and I have dropped heavy hints about the XT1 I want to update from my old Olympus 4/3rd camera. In anticipation of this i now own:

2 spare batteries for XT1
Extended eye cup
Nice new fast SD card
Fujinon 56mm lens f1.2
62mm ND filter
Pfirstingers 111 tipsfor XT1

Hope that camera arrives on Thursday!

Anyway - pleased to be here on the forum
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Hi all,

I know there are loads of adaptors for the ex-2 but I want advice on the best one for m42 lenses as love the quirks and affordability of these old lenses.

Would be nice also to hear from people who use m42 screw fit lenses with the camera and the results they get please.

Would prefer not to spend a fortune.

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Raynox DCR5320 Pro



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Couldn't not take a photo of this little one. (X-T1 and 50-140)

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Help! I'm having a problem with my shutter appearing to freeze and the camera saying ' turn off and try again'- this does not rectify problem and it keeps freezing intermittently. I used a Remote shutter control and had camera shutter speed set to T last night and it is since doing that I have had trouble. I have reset whole camera to factory settings but problem continues. Have I broken the camera or is there something I could try before returning to the camera shop? Thanks. Ita
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It will only focus with lens set at 112mm and only if object is within aprox.7 feet
anyone know the fix.?
Thanks in advance
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Help in selection please:
I have the X-E2 and very happy but:
1) Went jungle trekking in Uganda and will again. The camera was not happy with the humidity. i.e., want a 2nd camera with weather proofing. (camera would lock up and have to be turned on and off several times)
2) Shot lots of video, some great and some very very slow focus. Would like better focus controls on video.
3) I love having the flash on board.

Using 18-55 stock lens and the awesome 50-140 2.8

So two questions:
a) Looking to improve #1 and #2, I think this is impossible if I also want to keep #3?
b) If I accept no on board flash, do I need to jump all the way to the X-T2 for improved focus on movies? Not so professional that I need 4k.

Thanks for any help and direction on this.
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So it seems a number of folks seem to think THE alternative for running Contax CY glass is to hang it on a Sony A7 of some variety for the FF IBIS experience (rather than Fuji). I'm wondering whether any have given thought to the Pentax K-1 as well... and if not, why not. Is it a sticking with mirrorless vs. a DSLR thing, or what? I the ex-Sony crowd seems to be vocal about Sony not really understanding photographers... or don't like the "service". Sure there's no holy grail, but in terms of service, I give Sony huge credit for transfering all my 8mm video to DVD in there Houston service bureau. Not speedy, yes, but that's commitment. I've had Pentax and they're fine. I left their DSLR's for Fuji mirrorless, and like mirrorless, but the Sony user base seems ...far less enthusiastic than our Fuji group.
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For a while I have been toying with the idea of selling my 35mm f1.4 in favor of getting the X100-TCL. The only reason I got the 35mm was for the ~50mm focal length. I do not really need the wider aperture of the F1.4 and thought the TCL lens on my X100S would provide the 50mm that I want. One of the reasons I am looking at the TCL is because of the ND filter that is part of the X100S giving me the ability to shoot wide open on bright days. I would probably keep the X-E1 for a while paired with my Nikkor 85mm f1.8 for my granddaughters' volleyball games.

Anyone have any thoughts, positive or negative, for this approach? I am a retired news shooter and looking to keep my kit as small as possible. The reason I went with the Fuji over my Nikons was weight. No longer needed 8fps or extreme wide or tele lenses. Just looking to try and see the world the way Cartier-Bresson did - as the viewer of ordinary happenings.
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... which is in Holland :).

I'm just a hobby photographer, but I do love making photos! I went quite naturally from analogue SLR to digital SLR (Canon), but when the mirrorless cameras appeared I decided to change. After a lot of research I traded all my SLR equipment for an X-T10 with the 18-55 and the 70-200.

I've had it for almost a year, and it still overwhelms me! There are so many choices to make before pressing the shutterbutton, that occasionally I forget the most basic settings - shooting playing dogs without switching to continuous AF, for instance. Frustrating and fascinating!

I've already started trawling through this lovely forum and started making cheatsheets, so hopefully I'll get this camera under control one of these days.

Shot the dog yesterday with continuous AF ;)

[​IMG][/IMG] vers.jpg
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Trying out my 35+ year old Tamron Adaptall 2 f2.5 lens with K+F adapter. X-T1 and Classic Chrome. f4

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I've got the Adobe subscription to LR and PS. I've used PS for 10+ years and LR for about 3 or 4. Pretty comfortable with both and they work great with my Nikon. When I got the Fuji X E-1 I tried Capture One and thought it gave better RAW conversions than LR. Still prefer it. I recently got Iridient and that, combined with LR, seems to be the best choice. I do the basic RAW conversion in Iridient, usually just changing the default sharpening to R-L Deconvolution, occasionally doing highlight and shadow adjustment and save the result as a TIFF. Any further work is done in LR or PS. The only downside to this is the large files. TIFFs from the X E-1 are 96MB. Since I have an X T-2 on order those will be even bigger. I'm thinking of giving up my subscription to Capture One, as it's $150/year. But before I do, I'd like to make sure that I'm seeing the best that it's capable of doing to compare with Iridient. Can anyone suggest optimal sharpening for Fuji RAFs? Also, if there is any Fuji-specific training. Any additional comments are also welcome. As with some other posts, money is not the primary concern, but Capture One would have to be clearly superior for me to justify paying a double yearly subscription. I have purchased Iridient, but don't know how often it is upgraded and at when cost If anyone knows this history, that would also be a valuable piece of information. I paid $99.00 for the original license. Sorry for the long post, but I've spent lots of time already figuring out the glitches in Cap. One and comparing results.
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Can I use a piece of male threaded pipe to restore the threads? If so, what dimensions?
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This is not meant to be a scientifically made measurement, however Theoria Apophasis has just posted a Youtube video about the latest firmware for the XT2, which he reckons feels to have faster AF than the Nikon D500! Way to go!
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It just arrived today and I'm quite amazed. It's sharp even with the 1.4 converter. I shouldn't be surprised but I'm a bit skeptical on Fuji reviews. I do wonder how it is with the 2.0 converter.
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Another of the series. This one from Silver Efex. The previous one of the steam engine was processed in Lightroom.

Threshing not Thrashing.jpg
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Been tough getting over 'street lag' after my trip to Israel. More here.

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Is anybody else getting this from time to time. I have been having issues accessing the site on various occasions in the past few days. I checked on several systems and two different broadband connections and my cell phone and they all seem to have the same issue.
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Hi all -

The better half volunteered me as a photographer for a charity event tonight. Should be fun - I know a fair amount of the people in the organization.

It'll be a casual affair so I'm not feeling pressure. :)

Was thinking 35mm for faces and perhaps the 16mm for groups. Will toss the 56mm in the bag just in case.

There will be a presentation of a trophy for a golf tournament earlier in the day.

I would probably bring the X-P2 and X-T10 and + Nissin i40.

Anyone think that is overkill? Should I just use the 18-55 with flash and leave it at that?

Any and all tips/tricks appreciated!

Thanks in advance, all.
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I just picked one of these up, checked it out and then prepared to sell it as it was too close to both the 56mm f1.2 and the Zeiss 50mm macro that I own. However, after playing around a little bit, I think I'll keep it.
The six shots in the next reply are, in order, f1.6-f2-f2.8-f4-f5.6-f8.
I think F1.6 is somewhere I won't often go. The range between f2 and f4 looks promising and when you get to F8 it looks pretty sharp. Plus it has 1:2 macro.
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Perhaps I've been spoilt by the price of refurbished bodies and the availability of second hand Fuji lenses but I did splash out on a new 35mm f2 and I've been very pleased.

This new 23mm f2 would be ideal for me but it's being launched at £419 here in the UK.

Perhaps we get blinded by the love of all things Fuji but by any standards is that not an awful lot of cash for a 35mm equiv lens of moderate aperture?

Just making a comment really, I'd love this lens but I run with a bit of a self imposed budget.

Please all go out and buy one so I can pick one up on ebay in a year or so. Thanks
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Hey there,

I am mostly a film shooter but the chance to buy a very cheap X-Pro has come up and I want to jump on it as I've had the x100s in the past and loved it.

I am wondering if anyone has more detailed information about leica glass compatibility as the chart here: Fujifilm M Mount Adapter - Compatibility Chart | Lens Accessories | Digital Cameras | Fujifilm Canada

Is very out of date and I don't think it's 100% accurate.

The two lenses specifically that I want to mount are:

Leica SUMMICRON-M 50mm f/2 Lens (Black)
Leica SUMMICRON-M 35mm f/2 Lens (Black)

The catch is that these are the short period "made in Canada" versions so they are slightly varied from the general Summicron-M. These are both technically "version 3" lenses, which according to the above charge the 35mm should be non-compatible; however the "version 3" lens noted in the chart is specifically the ones made in Germany in the 80's vs. these which were made in Canada in the 70's.

Any insight would be great!
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XPro1 and XF55-200mm cooling off behind a waterfall at a local State Park yesterday.

Thanks for looking,
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Does any one know the Metabones speed booster available for M42 mount to our Fujifilm XT-1. I check their site and I don't see it. How you people connect it to our Fuji cameras.
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My firesale of all my FX Nikon is going reasonably well and I am eagerly waiting for the arrival of the X-T2.

However the cash is burning a hole in my pocket! GAS is raising its ugly head and I was thinking that the 18-135mm (roughly equal to 28-200mm on FX) would be a good addition to my arsenal for a walk about in bad weather, lens. Aside from the obvious WR aspect, I was however wondering if the walk about would be better served by an 18-55mm plus 55-200mm combo. Body with lens plus 1 extra lens, fits nicely in my Domke man bag.

On the other hand, when I might want to frequently jump between wide and tele, the convenience of a general purpose "super" zoom seems attractive.

Other attractions are the 35mm f2 WR and the not-yet-here 23mm f2 WR. I already have the f1.4 of both of those focal lengths.

So what would be a better to get???
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