X100T After an exposure, the 'writing to card" light keeps blinking until "Next OK" appears on the LCD. when I press the OK button, the light goes off and I can shoot again. I don't think I changed any settings but this has not happened before. Bad card?
I do not know if this has been discussed before but fighting a serious case of boredom today, or lack of direction, I decided to pull out all my Fuji fixed focal length lenses and do an auto focus comparison to my 18-55mm and 16-50mm variable focal length lenses. This was prompted by a shoot I did last night of a ladies social group dinner in which I was using my 35mm lens and was a bit disappointed by the focusing in a moderately lit room. Last week I did a similar shoot using my 18-55mm lens and it seemed more reliable. I keep reading about how the camera is responsible for the AF speed and have always questioned the validity of those statements.
The contestants were my 14mm, 27mm, 35mm and 56mm lenses verses my 16-50mm and 18-55mm lenses. The cameras I used were my X-T1, my X-T10, my X-E1 and my X-M1. All are set to single auto focus and the focus frame is set two steps larger than the smallest rectangle as that is what I always use.
While I do not have any specific timing devices it became apparent that I did not need any lab quality equipment as the results were consistent and very obvious. The variable focal length lenses, zooms to many of you, locked focus much faster than any of the fixed focal length lenses. It wasn’t even close and the 18-55 seemed a bit faster and quieter than the 16-50mm. Then I tried the same tests in a somewhat darkened room, blinds all closed, and again the zooms locked focus quicker than the primes. Then I went into a very dark closet, no jokes please, and using the focus assist lamp the zooms both focused where none of the primes would.
As far as which primes were the fastest, it seemed that the 56mm was the fastest of the primes and the 27 about the worst and the 27 transferred more vibrations into the camera body during the focusing process. By that I mean you can really feel that motor doing it’s thing. The 14mm and 35mm seemed about even but again were noisy and transmitted more vibration to the camera bodies than the zooms.
While I seldom use any of the primes in the field, based on my personal testing, I won’t even consider any of them if there is any action faster than a snail race to be captured and I have to rely on auto focus. I also verified my suspicions that the AF is more dependent on the lens than the camera and yes, I am running the latest firmware. However again some of those claims about firmware controlling AF speed seem to be a tad bit exaggerated because after I did the test process with the lenses and cameras described above, I was storing the cameras and lenses in their drawers and I realized that the X-E1 I had not used (I have two of them) was not running the latest firmware for the 35mm lens. Using the 35mm lens I compared both X-E1’s and could not detect any difference in focus speed between the two cameras. Again no lab equipment to verify that finding.
From my perspective, the AF champs are the zooms and if anyone is interested in shooting action sports they are the only lenses I would consider. I’m tired from all this switching of lenses and camera bodies and somewhat surprised that in the process I did not drop one lens though several lens caps did find the floor and no metal lens mounts were scored or scraped. As a reward I deserve and will now indulge myself in an adult beverage.
I'm using a Metabones N/F - X mount T adaptor with a Nikon 50mm/1.4 Ais. I've got the camera set to "shoot without a lens." I can manually control the shutter but not aperture. Changing the stops on the lens has no effect. However, it works fine when using the Nikon 24mm/2.8 Ais. Any suggestions? Thanks.
OK so I've now had the X-Pro 2s for a couple of weeks and I'm really glad that I "Bit the bullet" and made the decision to ditch the Nikons and go Fuji. My wife, (also a press photographer) and I decided that we needed to up date our kit and after a lot of consideration, went for the X-Pro 2 and two sets of lenses. I've now had a chance to use the files both for electronic and print reproduction and love the quality of the images. I always shoot RAW and to be honest Silkypix is a real pain, but I love the film simulations. I think I will use Adobe CC for most things, though I have Capture One for my Mamiya 645 AF-D and Leaf back, so I may use that. Time will tell, I'm still playing with both.
I find the balance and ease of use reminds me of my Leicas from film days and they weight, or lack of it, is welcome as like most "snappers" I have a dodgy back. I have the 16-55 2.8 and the 50-140 plus the 1.4 converter and I find these really useful and they fit in the bag well. Some may know that I'm a "Brand Ambassador" for Domke and Tiffen International, so no prizes for guessing the kit is all in an ancient F-7 bag at the moment and all the lenses have Tiffen UV protector filters.
My regular kit these days is the 2 XP2 bodies with the above zooms and a 14mm 2.8 and a 35mm 1.4. I genarally have the two primes on the bodies to be ready to rock and roll at a moments notice. I also have 2 Nissin iQ40 flashes and three batteries per camera, battery life is nowhere near as good as many rivals, but it's OK as they are light and quick change.
The largest print I've made from the .RAF files so far is 24"x36" and it looks superb, this image was also used as a double page spread in the Daily Express and looks great, so overall I'm really pleased with the choice.
Now for the admittedly minor down points. I'm the night picture editor on the Daily Express and I'm seeing on the EXIF/IPTC data on a lot more files, the camera name field denotes taht they have come from X series cameras. However current Nikons and Canons save the camera serial number into the file, this can be really useful. They also have the ability to embed copyright details and photographers name, from the camera. This is pretty basic and needs to be addressed in a firmware update, as professionals need to be able to track images.
Overall I love these cameras, the last time I got excited of a new piece of kit was the D3s with it's low light capability. The XP-2s with their retro operation are opening up a lot of possibilities in shooting and as old and jaded as I am I'm getting a real buzz out of shooting again. If you want to check out my latest stuff see the New and views section of paulstewartphoto.co.uk
Taking pictures of raptors and scavengers is an amazing experience. They are majestic, elegant and some of them are beautiful birds. Today I woke up earlier. I was picked up at 7am, at dusk. Outside was chilly, gloomy and foggy. While I was getting ready inside the photo hide, Juan, responsible of Vultour, was placing carrion in visible places.
The hide’s crystal spy was getting misted by my breathing. As soon as he left me alone nothing happened. However, 100 meters away from me, I saw something, then I realized that I wasn’t alone. There were pine trees full of Common ravens and some Red kites alighted waiting for their breakfast, it was the quiet before the storm... Continue reading the article: Raptors photo hide
Don't forget to visit my site here: www.josecarpin.com
Below one of the pictures of the article taken by the XF100-400mm:
untitled shoot-031-6.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
untitled shoot-030-7.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
untitled shoot-021.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
untitled shoot-012.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
untitled shoot-011.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
untitled shoot-005.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
This morning I had the opportunity to take some shots along the sea front before breakfast, a notice a couple swimming and grabbed a few shots; having bumped into them on the way back they asked me to send the pictures to them and I they agreed to have a picture of them taken on dry land...(Pro 1 with XF55-200 and X-M1 and 35 f1.4)
untitled shoot-016.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
untitled shoot-017.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
untitled shoot-018.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
untitled shoot-020.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
untitled shoot-018-7.jpg by brianvickers, on Flickr
I attended an annual indoors International powwow event 2 days ago with my X-Pro2 and the 100-400mm lens. Lighting was somewhat low and the dancers were moving at a manic pace and my seat was some distance from the floor where at times hundreds of dancers performed.
Using the zoom lens at f5.6 (i.e. one stop closed down) my shutter speed was 1/60 to 1/150 or so, all at ISO 5000 and in RAW format.
Shown is a scaled down sample image of what the originals looked like, then 3 randomly selected crops out of randomly chosen full images. No PS or other manipulations/corrections were applied, just the crops down to around 45 x 45 pixels plus conversion to low-res JPGs. Later, with a little sharpening and ????? most of my images can go towards covering the cost of the monster lens.
That 100-400 zoom is a truly amazing performer !!!!
Fuji has a great importer here who let me use X PRO 2 for few days. I am using it with my 12mm Samyang, Fuji 35 and 23mm f/1.4, Vivitar 100mm (nikon mount), and for the first time also zoom 16-55mm.
I was ready to use this camera as is despite the fact that none of my wishes to improve upon my X PRO 1 (tighter EC dial, Tilt screen and IBIS) were implemented.
My first impression was very good but than I started to look at my images and noticed a lot of noise in my OOC JPGs (noise reduction is on 0 and all other setting like grain on off day light shooting auto ISO).
Any idea what may cause it? what setting do you use for noise? (it works slightly better in RAW)
Today I tried to use my Samyang 12mm lens. one 1 of 10 images was sharp. I don't understand why the magnifying dial is sunken now. Unlike X PRO 1 it is so very difficult to use it. most of the time on each hit I change mode of focusing (normal, peaking which is not strong enough, split screen which is great on some lens useless on other ) but seldom do I make it to actual magnification... Not to be totally negative on the 100 Nikon it worked well.
There are other things like battery draining after 50 images or so and few other minor issues I can overcome with time but for now I feel that something is very wrong and I can't put my fingers on it.
With all the rave reviews I have read there must be a lot of things I am doing wrong. Any advice will be welcome.
Hello. Just got a brand new 55-200 lens. It is making a really odd sound. I don't think it's the AF motor, as it makes the sound when in MF. Maybe it's the OIS, but I've had lenses that make OIS noises before (such as Canon ones), and those were more of a constant motorized hum sound. The sound I'm hearing from the 55-200 is more of a chirp-chirp-chirp, almost a digital type noise. It sounds quite close to an AF confirmation chirp. I'm getting it regardless of OIS on/off, whatever OIS mode is in.
Strangely, it is most pronounced and audible when I go from playback menu to shooting. I always hear this noise when I do this.
Any idea if this is normal or I have a bad copy of this lens?
EDIT: Also, I have 2 other Fuji lenses with OIS - the 2 kits (18-55 and 16-50). I can hear the OIS on the 18-55 as it kicks in when I start the camera or come out of playback. But that's a familiar motorized hum that I recognize as IS noise from other lenses. The noise I'm hearing from this 55-200 is quite louder and sounds different.
I am fairly sure that my next lens will be the 50-140mm zoom, but I would like to try it out, since it's a big expense for a specific-occasion lens.
I know that there are places that will ship a lens anywhere, but since Boston is a reasonably big city, I was wondering if anybody new a place where I could pick up the lens in person (a cursory web search did not reveal anything).
I'm a (food) photographer from the Netherlands and I recently bought the Fujifilm X-T1 to replace my eos 5D mk II. I'm making the switch mainly because I have a back injury and noticed I wasn't picking up my camera as much anymore and if I did I had a lot of back pain during/after a shoot.
The difference in weight is amazing
One thing I'm struggling with on the X-T1 is getting sharp images in some situations. I seem to have a lot more trouble getting sharp images handheld than with the Canon - I'm not sure if it's movement or the autofocus not being perfect, but manually focused stuff on a tripod works fine. I found focus peaking to be very inaccurate, by the way.
Also, I'm disappointed that the tethering options on a mac are really limited (I've invested in Capture One Pro and I really don't feel like buying lightroom and a plugin just to import images to my computer as I shoot them).
On a positive note I haven't found battery life to be an issue at all, maybe my workflow is energy efficient, but I don't miss my old batteries at all
Any other food photographers here? I'd love to hear about your workflow now I'm reinventing mine!
I'm struggling with my newly acquired Fujinon 14mm f/2.8. Normally I get good results with my other lenses that have narrower field of view (35mm f/1.4, 56mm f/1.2, 55-200mm, X100T), but after everything I've read about the 14mm f/2.8 being tack sharp and all that, I'm having trouble getting such good results with OOC JPEGs. I fare much better with doing post-processing from RAW with appropriate RAW converters (not Lightroom), but until I do that, there seems to be a significant lack of "crispness". Everything just seems a little blurred. And even with good post-processing (RawTherapee), some areas seem almost like there's a slight motion blur where there shouldn't be (fast enough shutter speed + electronic shutter + other areas are in focus and not blurred).
Is that just a normal phenomenon for using a super wide angle lens in urban environment where distances to objects in the scene vary greatly, and combined with geometric (and some optical) distortion, I should work hard on my technique to get good results? I seem to get anywhere from very well resolved to "what the heck is this mush", and I can't quite explain it.
For reference, I'm not new to wide angle lenses (just usually a bit narrower FoV) and photography in general. Just trying to sort out why I'm having so much trouble with super wide angle lenses on my Fuji. Also had a couple of bad copies of Samyang/Rokinon 12mm f/2 that had objectively soft corners, even at smaller apertures. Those too didn't give crisp results I'm used to seeing from my other lenses.
Links to full size photo examples:
(ooc JPEG, right side is all softly OOF/blurred/stretched--look at the door signs, where the focused left side is crisp)
(ooc JPEG, mushy left middle)
(RAW, processed with RawTherapee. No issues here.)
(RAW, processed with RawTherapee. No issues here.)
ok hope this does not sound like an unanswerable question but from my early previous post on this forum i think i have allready decided i love the fuji x 100t there is only one small nagging doubt and that is ,i am not sure if the camera may be to much for me .
i was brought up using manual film camera ,zenith ,zorki ,olympus ,etc but over the last few years i have got a bit lazy and most of the time with my dslr (nikon d 80) i have it on auto i guess as i am just taking pics (i dont class them as photos as i dont work at them ) .
so i still remember a lot of the old film stuff settings ,iso ,f stops etc .so i have been using my nikon on manual settings with shall i say limited results.
to be honest i know if i go down this route i have a lot to learn i really enjoy taking photos but not sure how long it will take to learn the camera .
i find digital stuff hard to understand at times ( i am a bit of a technofobe ) .
off to ponder which way i should go .
sorry if its a bit of a dumb question
I'm currently looking at purchasing a used Xe1 or Xe2. I want a small camera that I can carry on a wrist strap and use with compact primes. I'm lucky enough to be able to travel quite regularly and am becoming weary of toting a full kit of DSLR equipment around with me. Is there any massive difference in AF performance between either of the above models? I do mainly Street and travel photography so don't anticipate situations that are too challenging. Any advice greatfully received
I'm surprised I can't seem to find any mention of this anywhere else. I'd figured it was common knowledge that I'd just missed, but maybe it's actually breaking news.
Anyway, I was talking to a Fuji USA rep yesterday, and the subject of wireless TTL flash came up a few times. I was told that a higher-end Fuji speedlight with wireless capabilities would be launching later this year. I also suggested that Fuji go talk to Elinchrom or Profoto about TTL studio light compatibility, and they said that "we're already working on that with somebody, but can't say anything more."
This is obviously just hearsay from a Fuji booth rep, and should be taken with a few grains of salt, but it's exciting news for us flash junkies if it turns out to be true.
I just got the aforementioned combo, and noticed that when shooting against backlight the flash tends to overexpose the subject, as if it were trying to be a key light. My Nikon flashes had a "TTL-BL" mode, but I don't see anything like that on the EF-42. I can mostly correct it by using the EV dial, but I'd rather not have to do things that way. I notice that it's particularly bad when using the flash off-camera on a Canon TTL cable, which otherwise seems to work perfectly. (The flash knows what lens is on the camera etc.)
Am I missing something?
I am going to trial and probably buy Capture One Pro to convert Fuji RAW files. I'm writing to ask if some of the Capture One users here have seen benefits setting up a RAW files "ingestion" scheme that allows easier alternative processing.
We'll see if it offers any benefits for my Canon images, too, but I really want an alternative to Adobe. I have already tested PhotoNinja, and as a Windows user I do not have the Iridient alternative. (Yes, I know Iridient's developer is working on a Windows version.)
Lightroom offers so many benefits in exporting versions for clients, 'Publishing" for synch'ed web use on my site, etc., that perhaps, like many other Capture One users, I will use the Danish company's software for only certain images. To me, that seems like I should have the RAWs available outside of Adobe's database structure. The new handbook Capture One 9 Pro by Sascha Eni tells us that having XMP files touched by more than one cataloging software leads to problems and that establishing how to keep the data for both versioning and processing edits separate is a crucial early decision made in the use of Capture One. He is clearly warning, I think, users to separate their RAW files into those processed by C1Pro and those processed by Lightroom.
With hard disk space less and less expensive, a dedicated internal spinning drive seems like a place to stage my intake of images when I come back from an assignment. I'd probably continue to keep that first drive organized by date folders. I think I read that C1Pro works best if images to be edited are placed on an SSD for the active editing time. Because I will probably build a new Skylake machine a little later this year I will not now adopt the newer PCIe SSDs. I do have a 1TB Samsung SSD that I can experiment with. This "big" SSD holds the Lightroom catalog and previews but there's a lot of room left.
So, what hardware infrastructure and image file flows have C1Pro users established that allow flexibility of post-processing choices but do not interfere with the work of Lightroom when I have to stay fully inside the Adobe pipeline?
My current LR CC catalog(s) hold about 145,000 image files. I don't know how much of my future post processing I'll be doing in CaptureOne Pro. My professional work is almost all on Canon bodies now. Only a small amount of that work can migrate to the Fuji bodies.
BTW, the PhotoNinja v1.31 demosaicing of the RAF (Fuji) files was way better than that of Adobe and I could not make Adobe's file look as good as the PN effort with on my chosen experiment images. Sure, maybe I could have forced it or learned better technique… In fact the PN code made a few Canon files look better, too.
I used to keep HC-110 around as an alternative to D-76...
I appreciate any thoughts and suggestions.
I may have two paid jobs requiring me to use a very wide angle focal length in the next weeks: a mud race requiring dramatic shots and some industrial facilities.
I'm considering either buying the Samyang 8mm fisheye and the 12mm or the Fuji 10-24mm.
The Samyag combo is 211 dollars cheaper than the Fuji zoom plus I get a wider end and F2 for astrophoto in the 12mm.
On the other hand the Fuji is a zoom, has OIS and autofocus.
What do you suggest? My main use for these lenses would be (in descending order) astrophoto (landscapes), architecture and landscape I have a strong interest in documentary images but I don't think neither of these lenses are fit for that purpose.
I bought my first Nikon SLR in 1998 or so, and I've been a die-hard shooter of the black and gold ever since. I stayed with them into the digital era, and when I was working as a pro motorsports shooter it was with a D3 on each shoulder and a 500/4 on my monopod, and then when I got out of sports and into PR and portraiture I downsized to a D610 and lugged it and a whole bag of glass and flashes to the office every day. Every photo I've ever been paid for, and every shot that I've had published was shot through a hunk of Nikkor glass.
However, I found myself taking and more more of my "personal" photos with my phone than with a real camera, and various "enthusiast" compacts and Micro 4/3 cameras didn't change much.
And then I bought an X100, and it changed everything. Suddenly I could take a real camera everywhere, something with good glass, good controls, and a sensor that didn't fall apart over ISO 800. Suddenly I had files that I could just about publish straight out of Lightroom, with no need for the 20 minutes of tweaking and filtering that I'd been finding myself doing with Nikon.
PhotoCon LA was last weekend, Fuji's event pricing was good, and there was a trade-in thing going on. I checked stuff out Saturday, and on Sunday I went there with a whole backpack full of Nikon gear and left with an X-Pro2, a 23mm 1.4, and a 56mm 1.2. (As well as a free 50-230 and an EF-42.) I haven't done much other than around the house test shots so far, but from what I've seen, I'm convinced I did the right thing. I've got an event this weekend and I'm itching to put my Fuji gear to work.
Photos of "beauty" as a subject in its own right never appealed to me. I was allways looking for that story. It just seems as though on my old days I would like to find a way to express my admiration for the beauty surrounding me, but all I get is emptiness. I keep looking for something more... but can't specify what. Why is this so bloody empty? Why is it just a background or empty stage?