I have a nice collection of portraits that I took of my students during photography class last year.

I did, however, never have their parents sign a model release and therefore it'd be illegal to use these photographs in public (online, for example).

But what's the situation look like with a personal printed portfolio to show to clients or to a potential employer?
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I've been a member here for awhile, since I bought my X20, however have been absent from posting. I've recently bought an X-T1 (coming from a Canon 40D). I've been away from photography as my life became complicated with personal matters. I've always found photography a way to relax and destress from everyday life, as I enjoy landscape, nature, and travel photography.

Thanks hosting a great forums with informative and helpful information!
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I just recently bought an X-T,1 and am new to the X-T1 world, previously coming from Canon for my DSLR, and the X20 for my P&S.

I am looking at getting the Markins L-Bracket for the X-T1. I am looking for one of those remotes that is similar to the TC80N3 where there are multiple functions and an LCD screen. The ones that are compatible for the X-T1, have a straight adaptor, and I am looking for a 90 degree adapter for maximum clearance.

I do have a TC80N3, and Canon has an adapter (RA-E3) that converts N3 to E3, however their product description describes the E3 plug as 3.5mm. I am not willing to modify the TC80N3 into a mini plug, and I am not sure if the RA-E3 adapter will work, even if it fits into the X-T1.

I would appreciate if anyone can recommend a wired remote (w/ LCD screen, intervalometer, and timer) that would work with a L-bracket.

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Main system is m43. Sacrificed a lens so I could get better use out of the Voigtlander lens. Helicoid adapter is a generic one, brings the minimum focus from 0.7m down to about 0.2. Seems to work fine!



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18 shot panorama using a Fuji X100S (2 rows of 9 images) . Stitched with PTGUI, then sharpened and cropped in Photoshop. My friend took me on a long drive from London to Weymouth and back, 12th October 2015.

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Hello there. Anyone want to see some portraits I did on Saturday ?
I used XF23 XF35 XF56 primes on XT1 XE1 XE2 respectively


Feedback welcome. I am Semi-Professional level, or sometimes barely Semi-Pro.
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untitled (1 of 1)-3.jpg
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Milford Photo :: eBay Store

Just a few things, but they be of interest.
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Thought provoking day at the National Memorial Arboretum..

X-Pro1, 35mm 1.4... Simple.









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Recently, I've followed several threads, here and elsewhere, about the merits of whether a subject should be rendered in black and white or color?
Herewith, I offer two examples. I just knew this image needed to be in color when I shot it...and then I saw my accompanying black and white JPEG's. Rethinking that thought.
I've tried to explain to friends, the rationale for shooting in black and white, which I do probably 90% of the time. My son said to me recently, "There you go again Dad, using that grey filter". But, color just gets in the way so many times, at least for me. And, then there's the occasion when you see something that just screams color and there's no other way to do that image.
By the way, this image was shot with Fuji's XF 2.8/16-55, the best rendering lens I've ever owned, period.
Please offer the reasons you'd process this image in color, or in black and white?
Thanks for looking!


Monarch 1 2.jpg

Monarch b7w 1.jpg
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Hi all, I'm fairly new to the Fuji world and the whole issue of x-trans files and using adobe programs to edit images. My old flow was something along the lines of import from memory card to storage drives using LR3> manage library> basic edits and exports using LR3 OR occasionally use photoshop CS5 for advanced editing or photomerging panoramas. Bottom line is I love managing my library with LR and currently don't do a lot of advanced editing. I'm reading all kinds of articles and reviews about solutions for Fuji users but getting pretty confused about it all. I really need to get a solution happening before my imaging descends into chaos. Can anyone suggest a) what solution I should (or need to) look at if I want to stick with adobe despite its less than desirable compatibility with x-trans files or b) what other system I can use to manage my library and edit RAF's easily?

I appreciate any assistance or direction.
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took these last weekend at an event in the local park;

X-E2 18-55
DSCF0017b.jpg DSCF0016-b.jpg DSCF0018.JPG DSCF0022b.jpg
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The People's Palace museum in Glasgow throws up many sobering thoughts - from the slave trade which made a few Glaswegians wealthy and financed many great buildings in the city - to the Spanish Civil War.

A Silver Collar for a slave. This is a silver engraved slave collar presumably to show the wealth of 'the master'.

Slave Collar.jpg

Spanish Socialist Banner.jpg
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Went for a walk lunchtime and came across what is, apparently, one of the finest Victorian cemeteries - London Road, Coventry:
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I bet a few of us remember this first time around.

One Arm Bandit.jpg
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They say it is better to ask than appologise, this old gent was quite happy to accommodate on asking

Mr. Blue.jpg
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This is awful.. Everything is confusing, compared to the old layout. Where is the feedback now? Why can't I edit in buy/sell?

C'mon guys. I want to use this forum.
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I had the good fortune to be able to find not only a model who was into the whole 50's vibe, but also a friend knew the owner of this beautiful 57 Chevy. Shot with X-T1, 56, 35 and 16mm lenses.

The model for this was Ivory Rose/ Pinup





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I just got back from my first real trip with the XP1. I went to Martha's Vineyard and took both the XP1 and my x100s. I found that using the XP1 with the 35mm lens and the x100s together allowed me to cover a lot of ground but there were occasions when I just wanted to carry the XP1 along with the 27 mm lens. My question is - what suggestions do you have for carrying that very small 27mm lens with no bag? I do not feel comfortable just putting it in my pocket as I think the lens caps could easily come off resulting in damage. Is there a lens case option that will attach to your belt loop? It's such a tiny lens and I'm sure someone has sourced the ultimate solution - not interested in a vest solution either.
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Traded some stuff around recently and got out of Canon for the xt1 and a few lenses. I had the x100s but parted with it for more XF glass.

To pair with my xt1, I'm currently debating between a used x20,x30,x100 or an x-e1. I'd like a spare to keep a small profile. I guess the x-e1 would be the largest setup and I'd need to then grab the 27mm or 18mm to keep it small.

Would I be better off trying to find a steal on an earlier x model like the ones mentioned above? The other option is possibly just getting an x100s again. I guess I was just looking for a change.

Currently I'm using:

18-55mm 2.8
10-24mm f/4
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As I await delivery of my Nissin i40 for use with my new X100T I'm wondering about bounce flash setting.

Will it make any difference what flash zoom setting is used when in bounce mode?

Another question for those with this flash. I saw elsewhere that the focus assist light does not work. The light on the Fuji works instead?

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I just got
Yongnuo YN560 IV
Yongnuo YN560 III
Yongnuo 560 TX

All is working fine, but I can't find how to change Settings on YN560 III from controller 560 TX
Both flashes trigger, and when I change settings for YN560 IV from controlor - it works.
But for YN560 III it does not.

Actually on model YN560 III I don't have GR option at screen at all.

Can anybody help with this please.
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Clear sunrise this morning so I got out of the La Z Boy chair.

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First ever to trip to Oxford, which is terrible as its only 2 hours away !



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Hi guys I'm a 21 yo student from Lisbon, Portugal and I got the X-Pro 1 and the 18mm & waiting for the 35mm f2. :)
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Got this lens in the mail the other day. Couldn't have been more pristine! Did a quick look-see with the ol' flashlight and was good to go. No surface scratches on either front or rear elements, clear all the way through, haze-free. Likely N(v)OS (new very old stock) as I'm told a lot of Hexanons got shelved various places and never made it onto a camera. Stoked!

As expected, the lens performs in a quirky manner. Right up my alley. To say that it's "soft" or "glowy" wide open, may be putting things too simply. At f/1.8, it does seem especially challenged in settings where there are bright specular highlights, and with any settings which would require a "proper exposure", but in the most muted of conditions, and underexposed, it is able to render fine detail very well. No Fuji or Zeiss, but pretty darn impressive for a $45 piece of glass.

So, I stuck it on and left it on over the weekend. As usual, not a lot of time for unfettered shooting, so most of what I shot in this hackneyed "test run" weekend was on errands, in the car, at the park with the baby. Which, for what it's worth, offered PLENTY of chances for this lens to sink or swim. Extreme ISOs at night, extreme contrast in bright sunlight, a baby that refuses to sit still for 5 seconds... what better way to test a lens?

Anyway, I like it. As I said, it's quirky. But those quirks can be used to its advantage. The color rendering SUCKS. Ok, it doesn't "suck", but I'm reminded of something Ken Rockwell wrote about a given lens's strengths and weaknesses, and knowing which tool to use in which situation, with managed expectations. So the color is.... "challenged." There are times, in PERFECT lighting and with a bit of PP push, that the colors can turn out awesome. That said, I'm perfectly happy to use this in full-time monochrome. It handles well in BW. It handles SURPRISINGLY well at night. I won't dare say it could replace my Canon FD 50/1.4, but it's small and light on an X-E1, so I could easily see it being my carry-around MF lens, if I'm feeling BW.

The flares are crazy. Like... batsh*t crazy. I tried a few times to shoot toward the sun to wrangle a few into placement for creative effect, but it's like herding kittens. Practice, practice.

Anyway, going to dump a bunch of photos in the comments, so I don't clog the main page. Here ya go.

2015-10-11_00-33-21_-med-a-2.jpg 2015-10-11_00-32-55_-med-a-2.jpg
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Ok, sorry to ask such a rookie question, but...

On my Canon gear, there is a menu to adjust micro-focus. I am comfortable with the reasoning for such.

With mirrorless cameras, am I correct in assuming you would "never" need to do such an adjustment being that all focusing activity occurs at the sensor? Thus, this is a big advanage to mirrorless cameras/lenses?

Am I correct?
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Here are some photos taken with the Canon 50L f1.2 on my Fujifilm X-E2. I was given the Fotodiox Pro Lens Adapter for Canon EF/Fujifilm X-Mount with built-in Iris Control. I am glad to be able to increase my camera's flexibility by being able to use my Canon lenses on my X-E2.

The lens had to be shot wide open, so the depth of field was super thin and was only manual focus. The built-in Iris Control on the adapter helped to increase the depth of field, but had the negative of really pronounced vignetting. The photos aren't super sharp (compared with the Fuji 35 f1.4), but that could be because my eyes are pretty bad and I am not very skilled with manual focusing. Nonetheless, I am more than pleased with the results.





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Hey guys just moved to here from the X-E1 threads! I'm gonna check this body on Tuesday, less than 300 activations, everything that came in the box is still there. Mint condition. 400.00 US buckaroos, is it a good deal?


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I spent the morning with a bunch of kids learning about their cultural heritage. More here.

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Is there a way to use a wireless trigger and a thumb grip at the same time? I currently use cybersync's with my Canon 580 series strobes. When I want to shoot OCF I have to remove the thumb grip which happens to use a small hex set screw to secure the piece down, becomes inconvenient for quick changes.

My other option to minimize change over time would be the use of a "screw less" thumb grip like Lensmate. Ideally it would be hardware piece with a pass through for the hot shoe mount.

I don't have any interest in using optically triggered transmitter/receivers.

Any feedback would be really appreciated.
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Thought I'd try color again, I seem to have a strong preference one way or the other depending on the day, and it seems to go back and forth. _DSF6576.jpg _DSF6574.jpg _DSF6580.jpg _DSF6581.jpg _DSF6584.jpg
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Hi all !

I had ran into problem taking picture of brightly lit background metering at the dark subject. My XT-1 is only 3 months old and it appears camera is not metering correctly or I'm doing it wrong.
I have 2 shots taken with 35mm, both set at f1.8 iso 200.
First picture shows dark subject which is the coffee mug, meter pointer at 0 (middle).

2nd pic was taken with same lens, aperture and iso are same with shutter speed at 1/60. Meter pointer is all the way to right (+3) which should indicate over exposure. Background is expected to be very bright and saturated which it is but subject is perfectly clear.
I did search about it and found about face detect should be off for spot meter to function. It was set to off.

Does the camera need adjustment ? If so, is this a Fuji repair action ?
Thanks and appreciate all response.

35mm f1.8 1/500 iso200 meter at 0

35mm f1.8 1/60 iso200 meter at +3
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Trying to figure out where the missing link is in this, and figured I would ask the community for insight. I have a X-E1, YN-603CII's, and WL 800/1600 units. When one trigger is on the camera, and the other is connected to the WL (2.5mm cord with ->3.5mm->1/4" adapters), the flash doesn't fire. When I hit the test button, it fires.

Must be something with the camera, right? Tried it with a generic hotshoe flash on the second trigger, and fired just fine. Mounting on the hotshoe works, and the popup flash fires.

Maybe it is the wiring? Tried a 2.5mm->3.5mm adapter to 3.5mm cord to 3.5mm->1/4" adapter instead of two adapters at the same end. Still nothing from the camera end, but the test button still fires. So wiring isnt the issue. Unless somehow the signal is different from the camera vs the test button?

Tried direct wiring the camera from the remote port to the strobe, and got nothing.

I know it isn't the issue with the sync port on the strobe being bad, because otherwise it wouldn't recognize the test flash from the trigger button (and both have this issue). Can't be in silent mode if another flash worked.

I would just optically trigger, but I am mounting a 30x60 softbox on the front, so concerned it can't see the flash. I am about to resort to triggering a secondary flash behind the strobe, with very low power, just to hit the optical sensor.

I am just about at my wit's end trying every combination that I could think of to narrow down the problem. Right now it seems it is simply the camera's triggering signal is hitting the 603 but not reaching the other one.
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taken in the local country park with x100s

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The rapidly advancing sunset / sunrise times allowed me a window to get out and take some shots of the Sussex, UK Sunset Friday evening (6:30pm) and Sunrise the following morning (7am)

Here's a few shots from each (all shot on an X100s):

Friday Evening Sunset looking West across Devil's Dyke and Truleigh Hill from New Timber:[​IMG]

I want to reprocess this, as it has some clarity / sharpening outline issues on the upper left:

I was hoping we'd get some of that even nicer light when the sun is below the horizon and still shining up on the clouds but, as happens sometimes, there was a layer of thick cloud hovering at the horizon, so no joy...

The next morning was bright and clear. My vantage point was really looking South and west, so no shots of the sunrise directly.

Looking Southwards:

However, it was one of the foggy starts we sometimes get in the Weald (the flat area of land visible in the image below) in the autumn here when the sky is clear overnight.

Looking just to the left of the image above, the Dyke is still clear of fog

Then the fog started ramping up and flowing into the dyke. Cows not taking much notice...

View grabbed on the way home from half way up the Dyke: (think I might crop the bottom 1/3 of this off as I don't think it adds much)

I feel like I'm learning a lot about landscape at the moment. One thing I learned this weekend is that I really like backlight and the colours of the sunrise, so I should find something to shoot looking eastwards (instead of Westwards again!) for the early mornings....

Thanks for looking. Crits of the images are very welcome.

Full size images and a couple more pics are in this gallery: Sunset over Poynings - jimification

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taken with the X-T10 and 50-230 today

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I'm not sure if this has been discussed before (feel free to respond with a link if it has), but someone just notified me of an article on Wikimedia Commons suggesting that non-commercial publication of a picture of someone in a public place (i.e. most street photography) is prohibited without the subject's prior consent in many countries, including those from where I have seen a lot of street photography published on forums, flickr and other platforms. In some countries (like France, Spain and Japan) you need consent to even take a picture, let alone publish it (barring a few exceptions).

Any thoughts on this? Does this imply that most street photographs from these countries have likely been posted against the law?
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