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I have been using their products on a lot of my cameras for years and completely understand discontinuing an accessory for camera models that are no longer made, but the X-E2 is still a camera that is being made and sold new.

I have the L bracket 'grip' and don't care for the added bulk (even with the vertical option removed). I won't likely use my flashes with this camera usually and would really like to get a thumbrest for it.

Any suggestions at to acceptable replacements (either other Lensmate models that may fit or which of the many Chinese knockoffs are better fit?)
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Dabbled in some street photography during SxSW earlier this year. I think I rather enjoy it, but I've a lot to learn. C&C welcome.

[​IMG] [​IMG]

More images can be found here:

SxSW 2015 - georgehudetzphotography

Thanks for looking!
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The first real freeze here last week. Still no real snow to speak of (or Winter for that matter) with temps in the 60s ºF at the end of November. Fuji XPro1 and XF 55-200mm along a small creek at a local MetroPark.

Thanks for looking,
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All: X-E2 (which I just got yesterday) XF27/2.8. Classic Chrome.





With a shadow me and my dad.
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Am new here and to Fuji as well but I bought an xp-80 for the features. The wifi cinched it for me. For the life of me I cannot connect my I Pad 3 to save my life. Would some kind soul please tell me step by step how it's done?

The rest of the camera is pretty intuitive to me. It seems like it's well built and perfect for me. Thanks in advance.

Newbie Dale
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I should imagine that everyone on this forum has heard of him.
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hi again.

I've found a way to use my existing Canon EX580II flash units with the X-T1. I need to set my Yongnuo YN-622C TX to recognise the Fuji, then away we go. The TX will talk to the 622 C units under my flashes and give me full manual control. Excellent.

But something I don't understand. I'm told that I have to go into the Screen Set up page on the menu and turn off Preview Exposure White Balance simulation. When I do this all that happens is that the image on screen seems a touch darker.

Does anyone know what the purpose of this exercise is? How does it improve my image taking?
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The common wisdom suggests that landscapes get shot mostly with wide angle lenses.

I'm not at all sure that's true, and I'm noticing that quite a few of my recent shots exploit much longer focal lengths.

It's no secret that I'm a XC50-230 fan. It's a lovely light lens that exceeds all expectations and costs next to nothing, but I do also carry primes and find that quite a few of my images get taken on the XF35 and XF60.

Recently though I've also been having fun with the wonderful XF90mm.

This is one from late October in the Lake District

Roy :)

Autumn Morning Tilberthwaite smaller.jpg
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Strait from camera - Astia film simulation and window light


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The Fuji Guys Billy (CAN) and Marc (UK) visit Japan to see the Fujifilm Sendai factory where they assemble various photographic equipment including the new XF35mmF2 R WR lens. They give you a behind the scenes look at how lenses are assembled and the quality and care taken in every Fujifilm product.

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i happened to read an article concerning stabilisation and problems that can occur when stab is not needed .
the article was advising people not to put it continuously .it explained that even at high speed it would still be working but to create blurred pictures!!
using my xe2 , from time to time i was surprised to find pictures taken at 1/400 s with kind of strange "moving" blur with no sharp point of focus
after having red the mentionned article ,i decided to put no stab on my 18-55 mm and the result is that now i don't have this problem anymore ...and it seems that direct jpg shots are little bit sharper straight from camera

hope ,this ,would be useful
see you boys ....and girls !
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I was posting a couple of recent Fuji landscapes taken in one of my favourite place in the English Lake District - Little Langdale, when I unearthed this old shot of mine taken a few years back on an 'old' Nikon D200.

Roy :)

Little Langdale 2 BLACK BG NEW TITLE smaller.jpg
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Hey guys, do you think the new 35/2 lens could be suitable for concert photography. I am not a pro and i am just doing it as a hobby, in small clubs in my city so i am really close to the stage and 35mm would be perfect.
Currently i am using old manual Auto Rikenon 1.4 and Pentacon 1.8 lenses and i am pretty OK with the results, but i am missing the AF:

I am not always shooting wide open so probably 35/2 @2 should produce quite good results in these conditons, what do you think?
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Was sitting in the backyard when one of our local hawks decided it was time to join in the Thanksgiving celebration--squirrel not so lucky. Anyway nothing fancy---just grabbed the XT1 and 50-140 before it took off with its meal....just a few quick snaps....although I shoot mostly with prime lenses---happy I made this purchase.




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This was taken in mid October on the XC50-230 at 85mm 1/75th at f/6.4 ISO200

Roy :)

DSCF5297 on black smaller.jpg
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Still trying to learn the best settings for autofocus - Should the "zone" setting only be used for moving subjects or is it also good to use with still and candid shots - I like to take some set family shots and candid shots during a get together - Should I be using AF-S with single point or AF-S with zone - Again thanks for any info
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As this is a range I won't be using too often, I decided to look for an XC in stead of the XF. I considered buying a second hand one till I found a new one for what I think is a bargain: 189 euro incl. free shipping in NL. Have a look if you're interested at
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A day out at the Market
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Loch Laggan

Blair Castle

Elgol, Skye

Forth Railway Bridge

Sligachan, Skye
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