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Was watching this video, where Fuji Guy Billy hints that the EVF + processor is capable of being updated to a refresh rate of 120fps to approximately match the human eye (around the 15:10 mark). That's quite amazing.
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I've never seriously considered the 300mm lens from Rokinon before since it's very slow but I've thought of a user for it -- on my tracking mount for nighttime shots. But I can't seem to find any real info on coma performance. Does anyone know how the center and edges perform for coma?
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Gloat time.

I looked at this lens for a while and placed an order (B&H) when the current promotion began. The lens, initially back ordered, arrived yesterday (Thurs 26 May 16) and I managed some thirty plus pix so far today. I severely like this item. Unfortunately for others, the lens is again currently back ordered at B&H. This is a gem lens that completes my Fuji gear collection (smile).

Why then did my wife catch me online this AM looking at more Fujifilm stuff?
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Hey,just transferred from Nikon to xt1,my question is:why Focus assist in flash does not work when the flash is
On camera...I should buy some specific flash or it not work at all?
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image.jpeg image.jpeg
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The new ISO dial on the XP2 doesn't bother me -- I just leave it in Auto most of the time -- but I know that it frustrates some users that they can't change ISO using a Function button and the rear dial.

So, I have come up with a small workaround that will please no one. :)

1. Set each of the three Auto-ISO Presets so they have the same Base ISO and Upper Limit*: e.g., I have the first Preset as ISO 400 for the Base, and ISO 400 for the upper limit. Preset 2 is ISO 800 for each of these, and Preset 3 is ISO 1600.

2. Now set the Function Button on the top of the camera next to the shutter speed dial to ISO Auto Setting. Set the ISO Dial itself to A for Auto.

3. When shooting, press the Fn button and use either the rear dial or the up-down arrows on the 4-way controller to choose one of the Presets, which effectively sets a fixed ISO, in this example I can choose 400, 800, or 1600. Because the limit is the same as the base, the ISO will not change.

*Note that you can't make ISO200 work with this, as the lowest Upper Limit is 400.

I am now putting on my flame-retardant clothing. Fire away. :)
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...that to turn sound and flash OFF you choose the "Sound and Flash Off" menu and turn it "ON" but to turn sound and flash ON, you choose the "Sound and Flash Off" menu, and turn it "OFF."

This keeps biting me because every so often, it toggles without my help, and digging into the menus almost never causes me to realize this inside-out, double-negative menu choice is still there.

That is all! </rant>
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We visited Liechtenstein recently. A beautiful, compact country nestled between Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, 25km by 12km only. In this photo, whatever is across the river is Switzerland. Fortunately for us, it cleared a little this day.

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Just received a new vintage lens - Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar 135mm f3.5. Took a really quick portrait on the XT10 with bounce flash from the Fujifilm 20 flash. I really like the way the lens renders. Only AUD$120 in mint condition. Raw developed in Iridient Developer. What great legacy glass portrait lenses do you recommend?

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This combo is not exactly lightweight but if you happen to be high up on a spectacular mountain railway the bright snow and large apertures available minimise motion blur with the high shutter speeds possible. None of these were taken at a speed slower than 1/2200 and all were shot from a moving train. Most importantly, on this Swedish/Norwegian train (The Ofotbanen) from Kiruna, Sweden, to Narvik, Norway, there weren't too many passengers and all the windows could be opened - nothing is more frustrating than those wretched internal reflections you only notice on play-back. OK so you're restricted to what can be seen from the train windows - but walking up to these places at a certain age isn't exactly an seek out those rail timetables on the Internet, take that superb combo along and let the train do the hard work...

Lapporten Gap, Sweden 55mm f/2.8 1/4000 sec ISO-200
Rock above Rombakfjord, Norway 59mm f.3.6 1/2900 sec ISO-200
DSCF8264 Rock on Narvik railway_edited-2.jpg
Frozen waterfall in Rombakfjord 30mm f/2.8 1/2200 ISO-200
Rombakfjord fra Ofotbanen_edited-1.jpg
Almost journey's end - Straumsnes Bridge over Rombak and Ofotfjord beyond
Ofotfjord og Rombaksfjord_edited-1.jpg
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This is embarrassing, because I do not know what I hit.

The camera now shows a little yellow lock on the right side of the screen.
No matter which button I hit, other than 'Menu', gives me a big yellow lock in the screen centre.

How do I lock and unlock the camera?

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There has been a lot of posts recently about which lens is better; 56mm, 90mm etc etc zooms or primes....But it seems that the 18-135 is fairly regularly ignored. Why??
So I am considering my second lens (after the 35mm f2) to go with my Xpro2 - and it seems that 18-135 could really work: wide to tele, water resistant and not so super expensive.
So why is it not "rated" amongst the top Fuji lenses?
Greatly for any feedback - positive or negative
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Had a photo walk with my club through the historic village Heusden in the Netherlands. It was a rainy day and tried to get that feeling into the photo's

[​IMG]mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-43-59 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr

[​IMG]mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-42-00 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr

[​IMG]mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-24-37 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr

[​IMG]mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-17-36 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr

[​IMG]mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-13-38 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr

[​IMG]mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-09-48 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr

[​IMG]mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-07-16 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr

[​IMG]mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-19-56-20 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr

[​IMG]mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-51-12 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr

[​IMG]mqaa-X-Pro2-2016-05-23-20-47-52 by Marc Nederhoff, on Flickr
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hi everyone,
i have bought x70 and it is a nice one.
But i found that after connecting it with my phone, i cannot focus by touching the screen on my phone
i mean there is nothing happened after i touched the screen in order to focus
(The other functions of the app worked fine for me though)

has everyone had the same problem as I do before? Is it the problem of camera setting causing the problem?

Thank you for your help!
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X-Pro2/35mm 1.4

Abby_Strobes_Xpro (2 of 5).jpg Abby_Strobes_Xpro (1 of 5).jpg
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I already have a PRO 2. But I've found some really nice price on T1 ($800 for graphite and $670 for black)

After trying my friend's T1, I found T1's EVF is soooo nice. I've wanted to try out some vintage manual lenses as well. I feel the bigger EVF gives better experience on manual focusing.

Lenses: 18-55, 35f2, a new 56f1.2 is on the way here. I've wanted to sell the 18-55 once I aquire a new prime lens.

What's your suggestions?
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Has anyone tried Orientec Batteries as replacement? They are more cheaper than the wasabi.
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Holla! New Fuji X user here. X-T10 to be exact. Hope to have new knowledge about fuji learn more about photography and meet new friends in the forum ;)
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In August I'm going on a 2 week expedition into some of the most remote parts of Borneo. It's a wildlife, environmental and small village orientated trip.

I'm wondering if anyone has taken and used the X-T1 in such an environment and how it has fared?
We all know that the 'weather proof' claims are a bit of farce as anything but a brand new X-T1 won't have door that closes properly. In anycase I do wonder if they suffer lots in such humid and likely demanding environments.

The lens's I have are the Zeiss 12mm 2.8 , 35mm 1.4, and 50-230 xc, which aren't weather sealed either (ie they match the body, haha).

My intention is too take all my Fuji kit as the above combo is fairly compact and light, but I'd rather not destroy the poor thing.

My other camera is a Nikon D750, but I only have a 70-200 2.8 lens for that. While I fell this combo is far more robust and could actually take a dip in a mud pit then a rinse off without drama, unless I purchase more glass, lens options are limited, and it's obviously a bit more bulky with a 2.8 zoom on it. The other plus is could almost do the whole trip on one battery, I'll have to buy 3-4+ spares for the Fuji to match the D750 in this regard.

I'd rather not take two camera's due to gear limits on the trip.
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Received 2nd sample of Samyang 50mm f1.2 from other seller today. And it's also defective : (

My first sample was optically perfect, but I noticed strange white marks near the aperture inside lens and sent it back. Now I think it was good lens : )

Unfortunately the second sample has visible optical misalignment. It is harder to focus with it so decided to test using approach described on Lensrentals .

I've just downloaded Siemens Star Chart PDF and aligned camera with lens on heavy tripod targeted to it's center.

Samyang 50mm f1.2 - in focus (at f1.2). You can see that fringing is directed from upper left to bottom right

Samyang 50mm f1.2 - slightly unfocused (at f1.2). Diagonal fringing is more visible here.

One interesting thing. My first sample came with Quality Certificate card and SN sticker on it. So looks like first sample was properly tested and optically aligned.

But second sample does not have Quality Certificate - that's indicator that lens is not factory tested.

I also have Samyang 21mm f1.4, just tested it on same chart and there are no such issue. This sample also has Quality Certificate.

So in case you decide to buy Samyang/Rokinon lens, it's highly recommended to check if Quality Certificate is included.
It's also helpful to run this simple test to check the lens alignment.
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i have just bought the 10-24 f4.
I can't try it until saturday but if a gently move the lens i can hear a rattle sound from inside.
No skratches in front or rear element.
I own tamron and nikon lenses with image stabilization and they also produce this sound but on the 10-24 is more pronounced.
Do you experienced that?Is it normal?
Thank you for responses
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X100, 1/90s @ f/8, ISO 800.

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Another all natural light portrait with the amazing 56mm and my XE-2. Processed in Nik Silver Efex. Rachael BW.JPG
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Meant to try out the X70 this evening but its 18mm was far too wide for the essential part of this sunset over Porthcawl and Swansea Bay. Glad I took the 50-140mm as well - at f/8 it kept the foreground reasonably sharp and was useful for the second shot of the sheep, which I could swear were suddenly fearless as if transfixed by the glow from the setting sun...

DSCF0458Ogmore sunset_edited-2.jpg

DSCF0450Admiring the sunset_edited-2.jpg
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Build quality 7/10

Generally good, but every single switch, dial and button is a bit loose/wobbly. The device feels a bit fragile overall. LCD should have been made of glass. Perhaps it's unfair to prognosticate, but I can't see all this camera's dials and switches still being functional after 5 years of use. Have to confirm all settings before taking a shot, because everything is so easily bumped.

Ergonomics 6/10

This isn't as bad as I thought it would be. Yes, the command dials are recessed, but I have no trouble operating them. I have size XXXL hands, BTW. I think the people who say they have 'big hands' really might be using the words as euphemism for fat fingers and/or chewed fingernails. Still less ergonomic than other brands, though, and a camera this large really has no excuse to have petite controls. More troublesome is the fact that e.g. zooming in on a photo in playback mode takes many turns of the dial. Way more precise than it needs to be.

AF-L button is indeed in the worst possible location. The AE-L button, however, is located in a fairly natural position to be used as AF-L, for my fingers anyway.

This camera cannot be operated with one hand, which is a bit of a step in the wrong direction in my opinion.

That ISO Dial, though... I think this should win the 2015/2016 bad product design award. It is waaay worse than I imagined it could be. Like many of us, I'm well acquainted with film cameras featuring this kind of dial. It worked fine for film, where you might literally NEVER change the ISO setting after you took the camera out of the box (used to shoot a lot of 400 myself). This dial is worse than useless. It's worse than nothing, because you can't even change the ISO via them menu system. Fuji really jumped the shark on this one. Weren't they supposed to have gotten feedback from working photographers on this design? I'd like to know just who signed off on it... So bad. You can't just turn it continuously. You have to pick it up, turn a few notches, set it down, reset your grip, lift again... You want to go from ISO 200 to ISO 6400? See you in a minute and a half. Yes, there's the auto-ISO work around, but why did you pay a premium for a camera oriented towards full manual control just to end up using auto ISO?

And I'm really missing the tilt screen from the X70 on the X-Pro2...

Regarding the focus lever/stick: I'm not sure why people made such a big deal about this. In practice it's just as many clicks as using a d-pad. I appreciate the effort, but this doesn't increase the usability as much as I thought it would. It really is just a joystick (that is, 4 switches with a stick on top). I guess I expected it to be more like an IBM/Lenovo trackpoint with force-sensing given the way it was hyped.

Size/Weight for what it is: 7/10

This thing is very light for its size (or, conversely, big for its weight). With lens mounted, it's no smaller than an APS-C DSLR, but a slightly more Tetris-block like shape. It's pretty much exactly the same size as my Yashica Electro 35 rangefinder (my favorite walk-around camera from bygone days), but probably half the weight.

In the backpacking world, one learns that the lighter, cheaper, and flimsier and more flammable something is, the more it costs. I'd liken the X-Pro2 to this. If I didn't know how much I paid for it, it would feel cheap (much like a $100 Titanium pot a cuben fiber tarp).

The fact that it's half the weight is more than half of the reason for buying it, though, so no complaints there. Could've been a bit smaller though.


Autofocus is decent. No complaints so far. Much better than the X70. Feels like a DSLR.

The camera doesn't get warm unless recording video. I did get an "Maximum Internal Temperature" warning after recording 3 minutes of 1080P 60 video (indoors). So it looks like Sony isn't the only one having this overheating issue.

I haven't really noticed any difference between High and Economy performance modes.

I agree with everyone who said the EVF is too cool/bluish. Very jarring. It's also too contrasty/too lower color depth. Turning "PREVIEW PIC EFFECT" off makes it less of an issue. Overall, I'd say the EVF was a bit disappointing. Reminds me of a 90's camcorder. However, regarding size, I think the people who claimed it was small were doing so in comparison to the X-T1. The X-Pro2's viewfinder is approx the same size as an APS-C DSLR. So, not small. Not huge either. BTW, I wear glasses and I can see the entire thing, with just a bit of vingetting in the corners. Also the same as most DSLRs.

Like the X70, the X-Pro2 is very picky about which memory cards it works with, producing "Write Errors" with all but one of my cards (32GB Pny Turbo).

Image Quality:

It's OK. Honestly I can't see much of a difference between this and the X70. 24 vs 16 megapixels... It's subtle. I haven't given it a thorough shakeout yet, but I'd say if you're hoping for an IQ upgrade, look elsewhere or keep waiting.

Noise performance is perhaps a bit better than some other APS-C cameras in its class (although this is a very muddy subject due to the special demosaicing and noise reduction required by X-Trans as well as the lower blue/red resolution). But, and this is a gotcha that I only just realized, the sensor is smaller than APS-C from other brands!--much like Canon--so you take a small hit on total light at the same time.

That being said, I'm sure it's in the top of the class, but the difference from the previous (16MP) generation is not going to blow you away.

Wrapping it up:

That's all I have at the moment--perhaps there will be more to come. Overall I'd say it's a nice camera, but it doesn't seem to be worth its price given what the competition is offering. Style (and price!) is high, ergonomics are middling, technology is low (aside from the unique hybrid viewfinder).
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Long time XT-1 owner. I rented a 100-400 to take photos of an airshow this weekend. Does anybody have experience with this? Whats the best settings? I've tried a bunch of things for fast moving planes and some are good but none are great. Single or continuous focus? Focal point, single, multiple or continues follow? If set to continuous track whats the difference if you have the focus switch on single on continuous? I would think the best settings would be having the continuous switch on and the continuous tracking setting on auto focus. that setting was good, but not great. it had problems locking on to the target initially. thoughts?
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Has anyone else noticed that the X-Pro2's pixel mapping function is ineffective?

With long exposure NR off and after invoking the pixel mapping function, all the hot pixels visible in the RAW file (my X-Pro2 has 28!) are also visible in the camera JPEGs (perhaps a little dimmer).
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I got my X-T1 a few days ago, and right now I have no native lenses for it, only adapted ones. So, I'm starting out with a blank sheet of paper here. I have the camera, and I have an Ona Bowery bag (which is lovely, by the way) with room for about three lenses, as long as none of them are really excessively large.

I have to admit I'm on a bit of a nostalgia trip, which is what drew me to the X-T1 in the first place. I'm pondering prime lenses and something like the classic 3-lens reporter's kit of 28mm, 50mm, 135mm. I'm still learning my way around the Fuji-X catalog, but right now I am thinking about. . .
  • Fujifilm XF 16mm f/1.4 R WR
  • Fujifilm XF 35mm f/2 WR
  • Fujifilm XF 90mm f/2 R LM WR
I have, in fact, already placed an order for the 35mm f/2, because it just seemed like such an obvious choice. (It's back-ordered, though, so that may be A While.) The other two are well-reputed, as far as I can tell?

What does the R in "R LM WR" stand for, I wonder? 90mm seems a bit short by today's standards, perhaps. . . Although, I guess if I ever need to go longer, I can either get a zoom or I can use an adapted lens for that.
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Came across these flowers on a trip to the Black Sea.

1/350 - f9 - ISO200

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So I've read a few threads on the sweep back to film. Point is to go all manual, dig the grain, force your technique and become a better photographer. Even at a price. And FWIW, I get it. Maybe.

Problem is that when you start looking around at how and what, the $'s start to add up a lot quicker than needed or expected. All sorts of things start creeping in... like expectations. Oddly (?), I think the folks offering encouragement tend to have made the decision that this is their main or important deal, so the advice tends to run toward higher end. Temptation of course is that all that high end stuff isn't so crazy expensive any more.

Yet the one thing I'd say I don't need at this point is more hardware to solve my user issues. I'd have to think of this as a sideline to my Fuji-X adventures, and try to limit it to $500 or so. In 120mm Medium Format (well, because it looks to be cheaper than 35mm!!! amazingly enough) there are some Fuji cameras, but the lenses.... ain't cheap at the wide end... so I'd say I'm paused out. Having pretty much tricked out my Fuji-X gear and over exercised my wallet for a while... a long while... I think I just want to shoot what I have. Leave it at that. Grab the all-manual experience by going all manual on the camera settings and not add new gear, new problems and all the rest until some other day. Maybe next year... or the year after.

So the Film Simplicity bit can simply feed another hardware GAS to scratch. Not going there... for now.
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I don't know if this is the right place to post this, but I do some experimenting with Lightroom and Topaz Impression. Rather than settling for one of the presets I alter the parameters to create my own version.
I know that not everyone will like this but I have had considerable positive response from various people.

Painted Iris.jpg
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Hi all !!!
I would like to share with you a little trick to use SP7 as a plugin for LR or CO to demosaic and sharpen the raf file the same way you use PhotoNinja as a plugin for LR (tested ONLY with Windows 7 as I don't have an win 8/10 installed).
First of all I have to say that I just adapted a piece of code found (after a long long search) in another forum so the medal for this goes to the original poster in the dpreview forum.

With this little piece of code (saved as a batch file) when you choose to export an image in SP7, Lightroom will render a TIFF (or JPEG) from the raf file and send it to SP7. The problem is that we want to use SP7 to demosaic and sharpen the original RAF (where LR is not as good as SP7).
With this little .bat file you force SP7 to ignore the TIFF and open the RAF file directly; after the demosaicing and sharpening (and whatever else you want to do within SP7) you can "develop" and overwrite the original TIFF created from LR. The advantage is that in LR you will have the tif and the original RAF in the same collection (album?) and you can easily compare the different renderings.

Unfortunately the .bat file is not recognized from Capture One but it's very easy to create an EXE file form the BAT and use SP7 with Capture One in the same manner....

This is the CODE to copy and paste in a text editor and save with the name you want (I named it LR_SP.bat)
Just modify it with the obvious personal settings:
silkypix exec folder, silkypix exec name.... just read the REM parts of the code...

    @echo off

    REM put your RAW extension here

    SET _rawexten=.raf

    REM put your custom extension here. for example if lightroom is configured to generate a new file named DSCF9999-XX.tif, the custom extension is -XX

    SET _customext=-sp

    REM choose a jpeg quality level

    SET _jpegquality=100

    REM put your silkypix exec folder here. name must be in quotes

    SET _silkypix_folder="C:\Program Files\ISL\SILKYPIX Developer Studio Pro 7 English\"

    REM silkypix exec name

    SET _silkypix_exec=SILKYPIX_DS_PRO7.exe

    REM silkypix.exe runtime output and error output logs

    SET _runtimeout="%TEMP%"\silky.txt

    SET _runtimeerr="%TEMP%"\silkyerror.txt

    SET _extension=%~x1

    SET _inputfile=%~dpn1

    SETLOCAL enabledelayedexpansion

    REM removes customextension from input file

    SET _rawfile=!_inputfile:%_customext%=!

    pushd %_silkypix_folder%

    echo Edit raw file then close program. Processing settings need to be saved to sidecar next to image (.pp3)

    start /wait %_silkypix_exec% "%_rawfile%%_rawexten%" > %_runtimeout% 2> %_runtimeerr%

    if "%_extension%" == ".tif" SET _outputformat=-t

    if "%_extension%" == ".jpg" SET _outputformat=-j%_jpegquality%


    echo Processing the just-edited raw file using the sidecar, outputting to same input filename. Output file automatically overwritten!


    echo on

    REM start /B cmd /c %_silkypix_exec% -o "%_rawfile%%_customext%%_extension%" -s %_outputformat% -Y -c "%_rawfile%%_rawexten%" ^> %_runtimeout% 2^> %_runtimeerr%


I'm as your disposal to sort out any problem....
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It was kind of a boring storm. Went out to try out the new lightning trigger but nothing much to speak of. Leading edge looked cool though. This is facing west and it was heading northeast.

Storm Front
by Jim Fox, on Flickr
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I have had an hard time to get close or even friends with my X-Pro2. My normal work does not demand fast AF usually. But every year I have to do the horse races at the Turf Aarau days. So my past experiences was with the EOS 5DmkII, which was not as fast as it needed to be if you don't use counter techniques. Next the X-Pro1 was not fast enough but played well with counter techniques and I did some very nice pictures. The X-T1 was as well not fast enough and bitchy if not used PDAF sensors, this had the result that I had to use two different counter techniques witch made the X-Pro1 easier to handle as the X-T1. Still there is no reason to cry. I would have to do the job even if I had to use an Leica M3 and there is only one issue to change films all the time.
This year I took the X-Pro2 with me. I was wondering if the autofocus does do better as the X-T1.
AFS with single mode release gave me a good feeling, AFC had to be tested where the X-T1 always failed, yes the X-Pro2 can do this well. Following lenses I have used. XF90mmF2 and XF50-140mmF2.8 both lenses focus very quick and accurate. I would say the XF90mm is faster as the XF50-140mm by quite a bit.
I have to admit that I took it easy that day as I was very tired and exhausted, I spared on the creativity and I was very happy that finally I have an camera in my hands I can blindly trust to catch the focus and the joystick was an pleasure to use. The X-Pro2 did ease my day significantly. If it will lead to an love affair? We will see, I still have some open points with developing raw and the noise, but as soon I have all my settings sorted out there might be nothing in the way to get closer to the X-Pro2.

The first race and I was not sure if the X-Pro2 will do it better as the X-T1.
[​IMG]Pony Race3
by Andre Schwaller, on Flickr

Still not a lot faster as pony races... the X-Pro2 does not feel to be in any pressure.
[​IMG]Race 3 by Andre Schwaller, on Flickr

Ok an challenge for the X-Pro2 here is the fastest race. Now we use F2.8. Still no problem to follow with focus.
[​IMG]Race 7 by Andre Schwaller, on Flickr

I just have changed the lens and I was by far to close to the horse. This picture has been taken just after I have turned my around, there was no time to think just get an image... we have some motion blur because e I did not follow as nice as I had to do, but the AF was spot on and the X-Pro2 nailed that thing.
[​IMG]Race 8 by Andre Schwaller, on Flickr
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Seems it's not supported natively on the Xp1, are there any hacks or work arounds that make it somewhat possible?
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