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Brief safari to the Maasai Mara, X-E2 with 50-230, what a sweet lens/body combo! Giraffes "necking" and a lion munching on a warthog, nature can be graphic
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Its not that winter is difficult here in the PNW, it just that its good to see flowers again. XT-20 with 14mm or 60mm macro.
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Some shots from the recent MotoAmerica Superbike testing, Feb 27, 2017 at Sonoma Raceway. Fujifilm X-T2 and 50-140 f/2.8
Garrett Gerlach
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XT1 with Meyer Optik Orestegor 135mm f/2.8 (M42)…
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Need help. I got a notice that an update was available for PS CS6. I tried to update and it repeatedly failed. Apparently this is quite common. One remedy was to uninstall CS6 and download. BIG mistake. Adobe has hidden an link to CS6 (at least I cannot find it) on their website. Of course it's all about PS CC 2018. So if anyone has the link, I'd really appreciate a post.
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X-Pro2, 23mm f2, av f5, ss 1/250, iso 250.
Regents St, London today
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X-T2 and XF55-200mm
Thanks for looking,
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Ive read in some posts in the past that the 90mm and the 50-140 should only be carried vertically in camera bag due to potentially damaging internal elements inside the lens. Is this an urban myth? I suggested this on a post and someone called me out on it saying that Fuji store them horizontally in a box when selling them. Which is a good point.
I can’t find anything on the net about it and I’m beginning to think I’ve been duped. Has anyone else heard this? I own both and since reading this actually brought a camera bag to take them vertically when fitted on the X-T2…
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The first is from the vantage point of my seat at the breakfast table looking out through our bay window. Then I moved the vase to the window sill to juxtapose the tulips with the snow-covered trees outside for pix #2 and #3. Finally, I took shot with the window behind me and a black foamboard behind the flowers. Several past attempts to deal with the backlighting have not turned out very well. I think these are better. All were RAF converted to DNG (Adobe Converter) and then processed lightly in LR 5.7.
C&C welcome.
Thanks for looking,
X-T10 56mm 1.2 at f5.6 1/70s ISO200
X-T10 56mm 1.2 at f8 1/60s ISO250
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I love using Miniature Mode on the X Series cameras, and I've been playing around with that mode even more lately when I'm up shooting aerials. Here's one I captured last night while flying over the Chugach Mountains…
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I took this shot last year in a park, XT1 with XF 100-400mm.
DSCF1109 copy.jpg
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Fujifilm X-T10 with XF35mm F1.4 Handheld.
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Only taken a few family shots, but wow!
My 56 and 23 f1.4 give stunning results, but the 18 is just different, it cannot be compared to the other two because it’s so different.
It’s not a lens I purchased for pixeling, or for the bokeh, I got it for the rendering, and it renders beautifully. It will be fine for traveling alongside the 23 or 56 depending where I’m going.
Will post some photos after I take it to Austria next month…
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I was taken by the leaning beach huts which really looked strange to my eyes.
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Teaser coming out this week from our 13 page Haute Couture editorial in ELLE magazine April 2018 issue shot with the Fujifilm X-T2 and Video by the Fujifilm X-T20...stay tuned!
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A couple of shots from the North Bank of the Thames...
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And one in B&W
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After having a blood draw this morning, by a nurse who joked she is sometimes called the "blood sucker" I thought it appropriate to post these images.
Fuji X-T1, ISO 200, 1/200ss, aperture priority, 18-55mm lens, f11 at a focal length of 18mm
Goldfield Mine 2018 144.jpg
Fuji X-T1, ISO 200, 1/90ss, aperture priority, 18-55mm lens, f16 at a focal length of 20mm
Goldfield Mine 2018 154.jpg
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A few more photos from a recent hike in Lost Valley State Park in Arkansas (USA) can be seen if you follow the link. All are camera JPGs from my XE2 + XF 18-55mm f2.8-4; most got some tweaks in Lightroom…
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As a new member and and Fuji system owner, I thought I would post up the first results of my experiences trialling my Leica fit lenses on my newly acquired (re-furbished) X-T1. the two images shown are from my Voigtlander 'M'fit Color Skopar 25mm lens, which roughly equates to a 37mm equivalent on the Fuji sensor format. The under pier shot was set at f8 and the backbench detail at f11. Please excuse some editing limitations. LR, as I have mentioned elsewhere, doesn't like X-Trans raw-files at all and corrupts them on import. Consequently I have started using Affinity Photo as an alternative, and am still coming to terms with it.
I didn't fully understand the manual setup on the camera, couldn't get Peak Focus Highlights to work, so I ended up guesstimating and using the d.o.f. scale on the lens. I'm actually quite pleased with the quality and image rendering of this lens. My only difficulty (aside from my own abilities) was getting the lens back off the adapter, a K&F Concept. To be fair this was probably mainly because the lens had a Leica screw to bayonet adapter also on it- which I'd forgotten! I feel that the K&F is quite well made, but was mainly chosen for economic reasons. I'd have preferred the Fuji adapter but thought the price a bit steep in comparison. However all ended well after some persuasion (much verbal and unrepeatable) in my workshop.
25mm lens test 3 (jpeg).jpg
25mm lens test 2 (jpeg).jpg
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Have a Fuji X20, ready for the next step up. OVF is a must. Thinking of the X100 series. My budget allows for a nice used X100t. Should I wait till I can afford an X100f or is the t good enough?…
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I took this shot to show the school district what motorcycle riders and many drivers see at this point in the road. Students cross the street to get to the curb/sidewalk for school bus loading and the drivers cannot see them and sometimes they have their head sets on and do not pay attention to the vehicles coming at them.
Fuji X-E1, ISO800, 1/55ss, aperture priority, +2.0 exposure compensation, 18-55mm lens, f6.4 at 18mm focal length.
Into the Light 009.jpg
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I recently purchased an X-T2, and updated to the latest 3.0 firmware, but I've noticed that it really struggles to get the white balance correct. I find myself always having to tamper with it, when I've never had to do this with my old canon or Sony cameras.
I shoot jpg and I notice that it's often just way off, either way too yellow indoors or way too blue outdoors.
Has anyone else had this problem? Here's a photo to show you what I mean.
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Hey good Fuji people
It hit me today that actually 20 years ago this month I bought a Nikon F90X with a 24-120mm zoom.
As NOT a pro photographer this was the most expensive (and advanced..) camera I had ever had at that time. What a beast! also because it consumed a lot of film (expensive) and money for printing of the pictures.
The zoom was really bad but with my Nikon 50mm1.4 and this camera I have made some of the best and most valuable pictures of my children so all in all good memories
Placing these to camera's side by side makes me think and wonder:
- little did I imagine in 1998 what a camera could be 20 years down the road and still look very similar on the outside although TOTALLY different inside
- they actually cost almost the same amount in DKK
- the 90X consumed a lot of AA batteries..
- the 90X is very heavy compared to the H1 - and has a lousy grip - which makes it fell worse
- build quality of H1 is way ahead of the Nikon
- they both have a little screen on the top...
- exp comp wheel on H1 is much better...
- the sound of the slapping mirror (on the 90X...:) is crazy loud and very disturbing. specially on 6 frames pr second
- the viewfinder on the 90X is really nice. huge, clear and bright. the H1 is better! and the wysiwyg possibility I could not have imagined in 1998.
- and...hmmmm...maybe a lot more!!??
I am a VERY happy X-H1 owner(remember I am not a pro). I have not had any issues really with the camera and I enjoy it a lot. Specially the grib, size and fell. It grows on you!
In May 2012 I joined this forum after becoming one of the first X PRO 1 owners in Denmark. I handed in all my digital Nikon gear to make that change and to get the first 3 lenses 18, 35 and 60mm. I tell you I had some doubts back then the first months as the lag of the shutter was really annoying and the autofocus was sooooooo slow and hunting.... BUT I fell in love with the pictures we produced together and I have enjoyed the new true learning of photography that this camera (and Fuji) gave to me.
I still got the Xp1 and we have promised to never leave each other. Firmware updates have improved our relationship a lot (thank you Fuji) so I can only expect the same with the H1. Makes me smile:)
And the 3 old very first lenses are now like reborn for real on the H1. Really! Specially the 60mm is great as ever regarding autofocus and hunting. I am sure that if I have had more money to spent on photography the last 6 years those lenses would have been changed for a 16, 23, 56mm. I would still like to have them but for other reasons than speed and precise focus.
So Fuji thank you for taking so good care of me as a customer. I will put the Nikon 90X back to sleep in the drawer.
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100% crop, 50mm f/2.0, 1/2000sec, ISO-400
What is interesting is I initially thought it wasn't working because the 50 focuses so quickly compared to the 35mmF1.4. Curious if the 35mmF2 performs equally as well? I recall Adam Bonn speculated if the WR triad had been launched at the same time as the X-Pro1 the camera would have had a better reception.
X-Pro1 50mm ioo% 0072.jpg
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Come check out the write up I had at Fuji X Passion about the X100F
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First trip out with my set of Nisi Filters with the X-T2.....loving this combo!!
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Still figuring my X-T2 out, this was shot with the "kit lens" 18-55mm using Cokin 3 stop soft grad filter.
Have since bought myself a beautiful set of Nisi filters as I didn't like the colour cast I was getting with the Cokin's.
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compared to the x100T? I missed a lot of shots with the T while I was walking around India. And many of the shots came out not so sharp at all/ focused…
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I have an X-T1, X-Pro 1, and a brace of X-M1s, plus a good a range of XF zooms and primes. I also have an 'ancient' Lumix TZ27 that is usually in my pocket when I am not carrying a 'proper' camera, eg when out shopping or pottering around. In ideal conditions, it can produce decent images, but a good deal of the time it can't! I'm looking for something to replace it that is also pocketable.
An X100f keeps snapping at me Obviously a superb camera, albeit rather expensive. And would it be the best for the purpose I have in mind? Because of that, I have held back in buying one, and I have been considering alternatives. After a good deal of 'thinking about it', it seems to me that whilst aesthetically the Lumix LX100 might not give me the pleasure/satisfaction of the X100f, it is likely better to meet my needs.
Have others had this sort of dilemma? Advice would be welcome! If those with the dilemma still went for the X100f (or t or s), why, please?…
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I have been using Apple Aperture on my iMac 27in for processing my Nikon D700/D4 RAW images with Nik software plugins - Silver Efex Pro, Color Efex Pro etc.
I am looking for a replacement for Aperture post processing solution for my X-H1 RAW images. I don't want to use Adobe Lightroom or Photoshop because of the monthly subscriptions, so I am looking for non-Adobe alternatives.
I need a set of tools for :

  • Digital Asset Management (DAM) - Review and mark up images to edit RAW files

  • Develop RAW images

  • Retouch images (e.g. Alternatives to Photoshop)

  • Add filters e.g. Nik Color Efex Pro

  • Export JPGs

One alternative is On1, which appears to support uncompressed X-H1 RAW images and can meet all my criteria.
I do have an earlier version of Capture 1, but this does not support the X-H1 and I would need to spend a lot to upgrade. I preferred the editing tools on Aperture to those on Capture 1.
Another alternative is to use Photo Mechanic to manage images and then use a tool like Iridient Developer or Luminar to process the RAW files. Luminar will be adding a DAM feature sometime in 2018.
I do have Affinity Photo for the iMac and iPad Pro 10.5, but haven't really used it much as the learning curve is quite high. Affinity seems to be better as an alternative to Photoshot than as a RAW file converter.
The issues seem to be ...

  1. How intuitive it is to use these tools

  2. File space - some intermediate TIFF files are enormous e.g. output from Irident Developer 16 bit.
    On1 can't process uncompressed X-H1 RAW files at the moment, so this reduces how many photos you can store on a SD memory card.

I think I may use SilkyPix X RAW Studio for Macro photos of flowers as I tend to only do basic adjustments on these.
Which of these suggestions do people recommend, or are there others I should look at?…
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I am looking for some tips using Godox flash for my new Fuji X-H1, in particular HSS in TTL mode. Previously I have used Nikon CLS for my SB900 Nikon flash and the FT16 trigger for the AD360 using manual flash with the camera in manual mode using a Sekonic L358 light meter. I have a couple of weddings where I want to use flash with my X-H1 coming up in the summer where HSS may be useful.
I know the Nikon SB900 overheats very quickly. Does the Godox TT685F have the same problem? So should I rely on the AD360 for flash?
I have now got a Godox TT350F and TT685F speedlights along with a X1TF Trigger and XTR-16 receiver for my Godox AD360.
I intend to give it a try to do a multi-flash setup at the weekend with my X-H1 using the XTR-16 as the controller maybe with the TT350F on top of the X1TF on camera and the TT685F and AD360 on lighting stands. I have Lastolite Ezybox softboxes for the speedlights and a Godox Softbox for the AD360.
Any tips for using Godox flash for my Fuji X-H1?…
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I really don’t understand why Exposure is advertised as a fast raw processor. At least in my case it’s unusably slow. There is a massive lag when editing my RAF files (X100F) in the standalone version. JPGs are less of a problem even though not without lag.
Whereas sliders in Lightroom work seemlessly without real delay in Exposure almost every change needs up to 1 or 2 seconds. Also in the Basic panel there is an annoying lag when changing the exposure or the WB.
My machine is an 27” iMac 5k 2017 with 40 gb RAM. My pictures stay on an usb connected HDD but moving them to the SSD didn't change anything. In the performance tab of Exposure I moved all three sliders to the right.
I already asked the alien skin support about this, the answer:
“The high resolution of the 5k iMac display is indeed a significant contributor to lag. If someone reports trouble like this it is usually with 27" iMacs. There are a few things that will help though.
When Exposure is first installed it needs to build a pre-render cache. This takes some time and will effect performance initially. Once the cache is build you should expect much quicker performance. For users having trouble with this, I recommend allowing Exposure to run in the background overnight. This should allow sufficient time to Exposure to complete the cache generation and you should find performance to be much better.“

I followed this advice but nothing changed. Also I use the latest version of Exposure.
So I’m wondering if anyone else has lag issues on a 5k iMac? Any other suggestions?…
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if so, what made you decide to get the Fuji ?
- leaf shutter ?
- film simulation choices ?
- already invested in Fuji gear ?
i'm aware of the basic differences so i want to go beyond that. i'm more interested in capabilities, ergonomic reasons, image quality, etc., since they seem to scratch the same itch :)
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Hi, the colour in the rock and the things growing on it caught my eye while wandering around at low tide