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Hello,
I have X-T1 camera. At the moment i am trying to understand flash photography especially during daytime (fill flash).
The problem is with flash sync speed of 1/180 and minimal ISO 200 there is practically no way to use fill flash during sunny day for which sunny 16 rule would apply. Even at 1/200 I am slightly over sync speed although I haven’t noticed black stripes at 1/200 with provided flash. Feather more if I want to underexpose background by one stop the only solution is to push aperture over f16, but unfortunately most Fuji X lenses minimal f stop is 16. Given the limitations of minimal ISO, sync speed and minimal f stop there are few solutions for which I am asking for opinion which one is best:
1. Use ISO 100 for which the sunny 16 would be 1/100 @ f16 . this would give me opportunity to underexpose background by one stop or to use f11, but at the cost of RAW file.
2. To use ND filter.
3. To use HSS capable flash.
I don't fancy baying ND filters because as amateur I don't see any other usage for them, and even with them i have to have flash for exposing foreground.
I am planning to buy flash and most of them have the HSS option, but how strong should it be? Is GODOX tt685 enough. I am not looking to get shallow DOF in this situations, but i would like to get nicely lit faces without strong shadows, and without overexposed background in environmental portraits.
Thank you for suggestions and advices…
Can anyone tell me whether the EF-X20 flash is about to be discontinued or replaced. Every outlet in the UK shows it to be out of stock…
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I have the Pro Fuji license from Capture One and the automatic perspective correction does not work for me. Does anyone else have this problem. With Lightroom I do not have this problem.
Thanks…
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Does this lens really have this bad distortion? Every time I apply a lens correction for this lens the uncorrected image is pretty distorted…
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Double the price,double the sensor size and Fuji runs circles around Nikon for critical focus…
[​IMG]
Woke up from dozing in front of the fire, and I noticed this composition on the mantle…
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Enjoying an X-T20 since Dec 2017 - my daughter's wedding gave me the financial approval :) Really happy with the camera but it's the X100s that is glued to my side most days for years now - totally hooked.
Picture taking is mostly while I'm passing on my way somewhere in daily life and of course travel when possible.
Past has been various Nikon film and digital and still have a old Bronica GS1 that I love but comes out infrequently - same as many people in the digital era I guess :)
Glad to be part of the forum - some great advice here.
Cheers
Pete…
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A joyous occasion. More Please login or register to view links.
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Underfire: the Untold Story of Pfc. Tony Vaccaro (2016)
Vaccaro carried a cheap rangefinder camera and a rifle as an infantry man in WW2 taking thousands of combat photos. Very well done documentary of his extraordinary collection of photos. I rented it from Netflix…
I recently bought a second hand x-m1 on eBay and am very pleased with it, but I keep reading about the Auto ISO and minimum shutter speed options. I have looked through all the menus and the options on the Q button vbu I can't see anything about these two very useful settings
I don't know what version of firmware is on the camera but were these settings available on the original firmware?
Your help would be much appreciated!
Thanks in advance…
Hello All,
recently I was on vacation in Turkey Side
and 1 km from my hotel were these abandoned buildings
luxury and poverty are short together
Fuji XT2 with XF 10-24mm F4
Greetings Jakke
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Hello guys,
I would like to ask for your help.
I tested the xt3s video capabilities for the first time today and noticed something “strange” when looking back the footage on my laptop.
The first picture is how I saw the footage on the camera lcd (of course the blown out highlights on the right weren’t blown out while )
The second picture is how the video played back on quicktimeplayer. However it didn’t matter wether i played in QuickTime, fcp x or da Vinci resolve. The detail in the shadows was always gone.
Is this normal or is there something wrong.
I recorded 4K dci 25fps iso 1600
I appreciate your help
Thanks
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In this lengthy video, produced in 2009 before he switched to Fuji, Damien Lovegrove demonstrates numerous lighting setups using speedlights and shows the resulting images. Proving again that you do not need to spend a lot of money on expensive lighting equipment to get good results. You might also pay attention to the aperture settings he is using. Unlike many amateurs, he is not always shooting with the aperture wide open trying for shallow depth of field. You might also note that in many of the scenarios he is using a variable focal length lens.
David Brown
Canon 5DMII + EF 100mm L macro
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The narrowboat Angel passing through the lock. These locks can pass two narrowboats side by side, the standard length of an n’boat is 70 feet and 7 foot wide, and can be adapted as very comfortable houseboats.
The Angel is fitted out as a passenger carrier.
LUMIX G9 + PLeica 12-60mm @ 1/800 f4.5 ISO200
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Hi, just added an X-A 3 to my growing Fuji family and my question is....which MOVIE MODE do i set in the menu,s, i think it,s 1080/50p, 50fps, but i,m not sure. I,m in the UK. Thank,s in advance . Mike…
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Not a great deal of variety in autumn colors in this part of US - thought I'd try out Voigtländer 40mm/1.4 between rain showers before wind strips leaves from trees.
Aperture not recorded, Capture One Express FujiFilm, Classic Chrome preset emulation I found somewhere.
Bob
Leaves X-H1 40mm.jpg
Leaves X-H1 40mm_1.jpg
Leaves X-H1 40mm_2.jpg
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Hallo everybody,
this is my very first thread here, so i'm not sure i'm posting it on the right place.
I have Fuji x-t20, and I bought Samyang 12mm f2 to pair with it.
I have some doubts about picture quality, especialy wide open (f2). Its look like corners are too soft, considering results I saw on others photographers and reviews. Maybee my expectations are too high, but I dont have nothing to compare with. So, I ask for some profesional or non profesional opinion about following picture. It's f2 aperture, infiniti focus. So, your opinion about corner sharpness. Thank you.
IMG_20181113_192748.jpg
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After dumping the ashes, which is the by product of a coal burning locomotive, into the bin below the tracks, this engineer prepares to use high pressure air generated by the locomotives on board air compressor to blow the remaining ashes from the ash pan before proceeding on the days run.
Chama 176 Reduced.jpg
Fuji X-T2, ISO 400, 1/70ss, aperture priority, +0.7 Exposure Compensation, 18-55mm lens, f 6.4 at a focal length of 55mm…
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Last night's wet snowfall
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Just a simple Macro snap taken at Kent UK of a Daddy Long Legs using a 105mm Macro Lens together with a full set of Extension Tubes. Lighting was via a modified Ring Flash.
X-T1, 105mm Micro Nikkor (D) Lens Plus Full Set Of Tubes, 1/180th @ F11, ISO-200, Modified Ring Flash, Handheld.
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Thank you for looking.,
George…
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Hey all, I'm in a bit of a dilemma. For my travel/compact setup I use a X-T2 with 3 Nikon primes(24, 50, 85) with a Metabones adapter. This setup seems to work quite well, and fits into my small travel camera bag. I do find myself though using more of the 50 and up primes.
But now I'm starting to think about going more compact with just a single lens. So far, I have my eyes on a mid-range tele-zoom, with a wide end fov as well.
My choice so far is the Nikon 16-85mm($250-400 used), from the looks of it on YouTube, etc. it still looks rather small and doable as a compact setup. I really don't need anything longer than 85mm, and 16mm is quite a good wide end for my needs.
My brother has the Fuji 16-55, and it's just too bulky and heavy for my liking and not long enough on the tele end. I read the Fuji 16-80 f4, is rumored to be released anytime soon. But that will be way out of budget for me and my needs.
I don't mind sticking with my primes, but would like the option of going with a single tele lens. I appreciate everyone's opinions and feedback.
Thanks,
Ralf…
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Here's an attempt at a storytelling still life. I took this with my X100F and WCL, f8, ISO 200, 0.5s.
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Patty Larkin is one of my favorite singer-songwriters, and she's an extraordinary guitarist. My wife and I saw her perform at the Tin Pan in Richmond, Virginia a few weeks ago. I managed to score her set list, and we got to meet her and have her sign a CD. That's one more item checked off my musical bucket list.
I know this is a photography, not music, forum, But if you're open to discovering new music, here's a taste (not from the concert we attended, but an older one).
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Thanks for looking…
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Hello all! I have a small problem with connecting my smartphone with the Fuji X-T1. I've installed the FujiFilm Camera Remote app (v3.1) in smartphopne.
First, I turn on the "Remote connection (WiFi)" menu in Fuji X-T1 (firmware v5.51). Then I run the FujiFilm Camera Remote program on my smartphone and try to connect to the WiFi network Fuji X-T1. This WiFi network exists, I can connect to it with the Android level, but the FujiFilm Camera Remote has a problem with detecting and correct connection to this WiFi network.
Can anyone help me start this function?…
hi, the video menu on my new xt3 is greyed out, i cant adjust standard movie settings, but i can adjust high speed video settings
can anyone help?…
Canon 5DMII + EF 100mm L macro
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The top picture garlanded with sparrow tracks...
Canon 5DMII + EF 100mm L macro
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I have a JCC hood on the X20 which can only be attached if you screw on the supplied UVF filter first. At first I thought this would protect the lens and, maybe, improve IQ. More recently I've noticed a certain dullness in daylight shots which I feel comes from having an unnecessary extra layer of glass over the lens. In night shots, the starburst effect from street lights etc seems untidy, irregular and exaggerated. Probably my fault for not detaching the whole hood assembly for night shots (hood plus filter only useful in daytime? - but aren't we told to keep the hood on at all times?) but so far I haven't tried it. Anyone else find the built-in UVF filter plus hood more of a hindrance than help? I've ordered a simple adaptor ring without filter now and expect things to improve...any comments appreciated. Here's an example of the untidy starburst effect in a 30 second exposure (the maximum available on the X20 as there's no bulb function) in an otherwise very acceptable night picture for such a small sensor (2/3 inch). Downing College West Range, Cambridge:
Downing College West Range small.jpg
Fujifilm announces on nov. 13, 2018,
next firmware updates for FUJIFILM GFX 50S, FUJIFILM X-T3, and FUJIFILM X-H1
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New functions include the improvement of in-body image stabilization performance for X-H1, 4K HDR video recording and simultaneous output of Film Simulation / F-Log footage for X-T3, and 35mm format mode for GFX 50S
November, 13, 2018
FUJIFILM Corporation (President: Kenji Sukeno) will release new firmware updates for the FUJIFILM GFX 50S (“GFX 50S”), FUJIFILM X-T3 (“X-T3”), and FUJIFILM X-H1 (“X-H1”) X Series digital cameras in November and December.
Firmware Version:
FUJIFILM GFX 50S Ver. 3.30 : End of November 2018


  1. 1. Supports “35mm Format Mode” when using GF Lens and H mount adapter
    “35mm Format Mode” crops the center of the sensor 36.0mm x 24.0mm (30.5M) and records JPEG and RAW file.



  1. 2. Improved eye-sensor response
    Reduced the time to switch between EVF and LCD when you select “eye-sensor” on the viewfinder display settings.



  1. 3. Supports simultaneous delete for RAW and JPEG files
    When RAW / JPEG is selected in the card slot setting (for still image), RAW/JPEG image can be deleted simultaneously. By selecting “OFF”, only the RAW image will be deleted.



  1. 4. Supports EVF and LCD color adjustment
    Color of EVF/LCD is adjustable from screen setting menu.


Firmware Version:
FUJIFILM X-T3 Ver. 2.00 : December 2018


  1. 1. 4K HDR video recording in Hybrid Log Gamma (HLG)
    Supports 4K HDR video recording in the Hybrid Log Gamma (HLG), one of the formats defined in the ITU-R BT.2100 international standards *. It allows the capture of rich and realistic images in a scene where there is a huge gap between highlight and shadow, or subjects with high color saturation.


  • * Only compatible with H.265(HEVC). Please enjoy with television or display compatible with HLG formats.


  1. 2. Simultaneous output of Film Simulation and F-Log footage **
    Supports simultaneous output of Film Simulation and F-Log footage. It allows you to record in F-Log while checking Film Simulation image on an external monitor.


  • ** Not compatible with 59.94P/50P, FHD high speed rec., 4K interframe NR, and HDMI output info display mode.
    Also, cannot choose different image size (4K/FHD) for HDMI output and internal SD card recording.


  1. 3. Recording over 4GB movie file as one file
    Movie files are no longer split when the file reaches 4GB file size. The file is recorded as one file providing an SD memory card greater than 32GB is used (excludes 32GB) ***.


  • *** By using SD memory cards less than or equal to 32GB, movie recording will continue without
    interruption when the file size reaches 4GB, however subsequent footage will be recorded to a separate file.


  1. 4. Display color temperature (Kelvin) on EVF/LCD
    Color temperature (Kelvin) can be displayed on EVF/LCD.



  1. 5. Supports slower shutter speeds with DCI4K/4K 29.97P/25P/24P/23.98P *4
    Slower shutter speeds than the framerate can be selected with 4K 29.97P/25P/24P/23.98P.


  • *4 Cannot select slower shutter speed than framerate with DCI/4K 59.94P/50P or LongGOP recording.


  1. 6. Compatible with ALL-Intra and maximum bitrate 400Mbps with H.264
    Using H.264 compression, you will now to be able to select ALL-Intra at a maximum bitrate of 400Mbps.



  1. 7. Display power supply icon
    Power supply icon is displayed on EVF/LCD while using AC adapter (AC-9VS), or Anker PowerCore+ 26800 PD *5 and Anker PowerCore Speed 20000 PD *6


  • *5Anker and PowerCore are trademark or registered trademark of Anker Innovations Limited or associated companies.

  • *6Product may not be available on your country.

Firmware Version:
FUJIFILM X-H1 Ver. 2.00 : December 2018


  1. 1. In-body image stabilization and optical image stabilization now work together to improve overall stability
    With an XF or XC optical image stabilized lens, in-body image stabilization worked with 3 axis (up and down / optical axis rotation). The remaining 2 axis (right and left pitch, yaw angle) was controlled by optical image stabilization in the lens. This firmware has a new image stabilization algorithm to allow the in-body image stabilization to work in all 5 axis and to achieve more than five-stops (up to the equivalent of 5.5 stops *7 ) image stabilization by cooperative control according to the types of frequency and blur amount.
    To activate this function, lenses are necessary to be updated to latest firmware version. Please check the latest firmware version from the link below.


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  • *7 Based on CIPA standards. When using XF10-24mmF4 R OIS, XF18-55mmF2.8-4 R LM OIS, and XC16-50mmF3.5-5.6 OIS II.

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Not a landscape photographer so I will apologize in advance. Idaho has more than 600 square miles of lava flows from its geologic past. The area received some snow this weekend and made some interesting photo ops.
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With the arrival of the T20 into my life (and therefore access to Classic Chrome and Acros) I have been using the Fuji Film Simulations more and more. Recently, I have begun to experiment with "blending" different simulations to get a particular look and so far my results have been extremely positive. I was wondering if anyone else has tried anything like this.
My workflow is to create two separate versions with the respective simulations in LR and then export to PS where I layer one onto the other and use the opacity slider to blend them to my liking.
So far the recipes I have created are;
Dutch Painting
Created for a shot of a colorful wedding appetizer table for my boss', this blend has wonderful rich colors and deep shadows that remind me of the Dutch masters.
50% Astia
50% Pro Neg Hi
Green Room
Created for band shots taken in a green room that was actually green (almost a bluish green) to play up the ambient color without making anyone look sickly.
66% Classic Chrome
33% Provia
Outdoor Haze
Created for part of a set of band shots done outside during the hazy smoke currently enveloping Sacramento
60% Astia
40% Classic Chrome…
Not sure about the bird. I think is a kind of Heron.
Yesterday walking around I saw this.
XT3 55-200
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What are the two to three things that have really made an improvement in your photography?
For me, I can think of three things:
1. Electronic View Finder
I switched from film to a Fujifilm camera with an EVF. With film, I could never remember the conditions, camera settings, etc. when I got my pictures back from the lab. When I started seeing pretty much what my picture would look like in the viewfinder, my photography started improving drastically.
2. Camera Club
I started shooting with various camera clubs around. We do photo shoots at the same place and the same time. Then, many post their pictures of the shoot. This gave me valuable insight into what others were seeing and how they portrayed their subjects. My photography continues to benefit by doing this. For those of you in larger cities, check out Meetup.com to find photography groups in your area. You can also do a web search for clubs in your area. The added benefit is that these clubs get you out shooting. I actually lead photo shoots for a group and last time a participant had so much fun during a sunrise shoot she was really inspired to go out and do more photography.
3. The Internet
You have to be careful with the Internet. It can lead you into photography forums where all discussion is about equipment. On the positive side, I have found classes such as found on CreativeLive.com really helpful. Similar to camera clubs, I am exposed to professionals showing how they approach photography. Certain youtube sites can also be helpful in learning about a specific branch of photography. However, care has to be taken so one doesn't end up in the rabbit hole of mediocrity.
What things have had the largest impact on improving your photography?…
a6000 and Nikkor-O 35/2
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I've used a lot of adapted lenses on Fuji, Olympus, Panasonic and Sony bodies and quite honestly I've enjoyed them all (for different reasons). I have long thought Sony bodies and Minolta lenses seem particularly well suited to one another but there is one lens that I keep coming back to again and again, the Nikkor-O 35/2. It's the only adapted lens I have 2 copies of and if I could have just one lens it would be that one (although I'd keep both copies). It doesn't matter what brand of body I have, I'd keep it over ANY native lens I've ever owned including the Fuji 35/1.4, Panasonic/Leica 25/1.5 and Sony FE 28/2.
It's single coated, needs a hood in sunny weather (which we have darned little of up here in the PNW), close focuses pretty well and is reasonably sharp wide open. It may not be Leica or Zeiss small but I wouldn't trade it for a Summicron 35/2 either (not that I could afford one mind you). :eek:
First copy was $80 and the latter was $110 in mint condition. The first copy lives on my Nikon FM…
X Series Unlimited by Dan Bailey
Great reference book for Fuji X Series cameras.
Inside X Series Unlimited_small_edited-1.jpg
X Series Unlimited-small_edited-1.jpg
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I’ve been running into buffering more than I expected. Shooting raw + jpeg. Could it be the card? Using:
SanDisk 64GB Extreme SDXC UHS-I U3 Memory Card, Up to 90MB/s Read Speed
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