I am looking for a speedlight and trigger with HSS and TTL compatibility with the X-T2. More interested in HSS than TTL.
Would the Cactus V6 II and Yongnuo 568EX II do the trick or am I better off going with the new Nisson speedlight and trigger. I understand Cactus also has a speedlight and trigger that might work.
Any insight is appreciated.
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When I take a picture on both the XT-2 and the XPro2 I randomly get an OK Next message on the back of the camera. I can tell you what is NOT causing it:
1) I am not in multiple exposure drive
2) I have the camera set for no playback after I take a picture
Any ideas out there?…
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Just purchased a USED LN XT-2 and the entire menu is in Japanese. I tried just about everything to try to get it in English. Any Help is appreciated Dennis…
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Worth the time and effort? lens already has X mount…
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This is going to be fun
So, I was advised to create a color profile for my Nikon D7000, because I complained about the skin tones not looking as pretty as they do from my Canon.
Since I have a color checker passport, I did and was happy, very much so, with the results.
Today, I decided to use it with the Fuji as well.
Here's my usual image style, with "Pro. Negative Low"
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I was playing around with the X-T1 and Tamron 80-210 tonight looking for flower images in my back garden when my dog set a perfect pose - unusual for a 16 month labrador bundle of energy. This is the cameras jpeg with only a few stray leaves cloned out and minimum sharpening for the web. He is that colour and the top of his head is that flat.
X-T1 with Tamron 80-210 @105mm f8 1/180 iso400
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We're headed to Scandinavia this fall, to hunt for stars and Aurorae and landscapes and stuff.
My plan, up until yesterday, was to bring the Fuji X-T10 with Samyang 12mm and the XF 10-24mm f/4R OIS. However, yesterday I continued editing the images from our US roadtrip last summer.
When I got to pictures like this, I really had a hard time not to hit the "delete" button.
Sure, our pose is amazing (lol) and I was able to convince the rest of the tourists to get out of the frame, but the trees!!!
And this is not the only image where I encountered this issue. Basically EVERY single image that contains fine detail from leaves, and even some images with stones (granite, I guess?!) end up looking like they were painted with a brush..
I just checked some of the jpg-files I saved alongside the RAW files, and it's there too:
Agreed, you can't really make it out unless you look at the image at a reasonable size (A4, for instance), but this basically destroys ANY hope for me to print huge again.
Now, I did love using the X-T10 with the 10-24mm as a walkaround combo and got really nice results in all conditions that didn't include trees and greenery.
However, our Scandinavia trip will be a once-in-a-lifetime trip, so I need the pictures to be perfect.
I was going to buy a used Nikon D810 anyway, as soon as the D850 is released, but up until yesterday hadn't considered bringing it with me to Norway.
Now I'm seriously considering selling the Fujinon and buying a Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8. It serves as both, walkaround and landscape (+astro) lens, just like the Fujinon does.
What are your thoughts?…
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Spending 3 weeks using the X-P1 and 18/2 on a vacation was really fun. Maybe the most fun I've had in ages using a camera. The combination I enjoyed the most was using the OVF the rear LCD off and the camera set to manual focus. For years I have maintained that I liked using old manual focus lenses because they felt better to use than the native lenses and while I still think native lenses feel too light and focus-by-wire is weirdly disconnected feeling the X-P1/18 combo was definitely a case of something being greater than the sum of its parts.
big wheel by kevin dixey, on Flickr…
Tourist train runs from Springdale, Arkansas south to Van Buren, Arkansas, about 134 miles roundtrip. Follow the link for more photos…
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If Fujifilm lenses had names (like many German lenses), instead of numbers, would they be more desirable?…
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Most photos of icebergs show them as pure white. However, icebergs break off glaciers, and glaciers often pick up and transport gravel and earth as they slowly slide towards the sea. Dark icebergs are not evidence of man-made contamination, such as coal mines or smoke stacks in the Arctic or Antarctic, they are natural. I see these icebergs not as "dirty", but beautiful jewels in their own way.
I took this photo last month, from a Zodiac off the coat of Svalbard, in the Norwegian Arctic, late at night. There was enough light to photograph almost 24 hours on June 21.
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I was shooting all day Sunday on an MTB XCO race. First, I started with the preset 2 (within AF-C) because I thought since I can lock on the racer in a distance (50m) and track him getting close to me, obstacles are disturbing clear tracking and this preset seems to be developed for this situation. It did not worked well, not at all. I had 4 out of focus shots from 5. Than I started to play with the settings and found that preset 4, which should handle sudden appear of subject well, that gave the best rate. To the afternoon I reached to 4 good from 5.
Uphill sections were easy (not for the racers , the camera handled in all presets. Like this case : https://mega.nz/#!R8RWRARS!5XBIhFUO6dIKMoPQlGDvUMmXhtKheT98QvHM4aDl-No
On the other hand, downhill sections were difficult. Maybe this :
is not a good example because camera movement is also causing blurr, I just linked it to show the speed and distance to rider, to have an idea about the situation. I have deleted the out of focus shot, I can not share from those :-(
I have used different lens, but after a few attempt to use the XF56 (I knew it will not work, but gave it a chance) and an 55-200, I mostly used a 18-55 at 55mm usually. OIS was on. F4 mostly.
So, I would have 2 question. What preset would you use, if you have experimented before between the presets.
Second, I also had issues that I lost the moving object easy, when the object was small in the frame. I tried to use a relative small AF window, but I did let the camera move it in wide area. The reason I used small window, I found the bigger window I use the more chance the focus falls off on other subjects like greens around the rider.
I also detected a few times that the window followed the rider, but within that window, which followed the rider, the camera focused on items around the rider and caused the rider out of focus
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I am shooting a Fujifilm X-T2, mostly for landscapes. I am trying to understand metering modes...Spot, Average, Center Weighted and Multi/Matrix. I don't think any of these modes change my aperture, shutter speed or ISO. So what do they actually affect in the camera? And under what conditions are each of these modes best suited for my landscape work?
Many thanks for your expert help.
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Willy wrote his best work sitting in this cafe drinking soy turmeric lattes
At the other end of the arcade Liz ran this up market jewellers before Queenship beckoned
and surprise, surprise across from Liz's shop was the travel exchange where Frank converted all those Spanish doubloons into good English pounds.
(I'm using the modern meaning of facts as defined by some world leaders here)
I'm sorry if this has been addressed somewhere but I couldn't find anything recent on it. I can't be the only one with this problem. I've lost the neutral diopter eyepiece that came with the camera and am having a hard time replacing it. I shoot with eyeglasses on and don't need a corrected diopter. I do, however, want to avoid scratching my glasses on the the sharp edge of the metal ring which a diopter would cover. Fujifilm USA only seems to stock a -3 diopter ring. B&H doesn't carry it at all. I understand that the diopters for the Nikon F3 will fit, and B&H still carries a neutral version, but it is bare metal all over and will therefore also scratch eyeglasses. The one Zeiss makes for the ZI is a bit pricey at about $39. Voigtlander only seems to sell corrected eyepieces when all I want is a neutral, "0" diopter. I considered getting the rubber eye cup by JJC on Amazon the listing for it says it fits only the X-Pro2. As I don't have the X-Pro2 I don't know if its diopter ring is the same 19mm diameter of the X-Pro1. I'd appreciate advice from anyone else who has had to replace that pesky diopter recently. If I find a replacement I promise I'll glue/weld the darn thing in this time…
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for beginner in learning flash, how many and which flash are recommended?
will be learning to use umbrella and soft boxes for product and portrait photography.
doubt will venture beyond flash units though.
currently have tt350, still unused. have a sigma ef500 from years ago but couldn’t find it after moving, somewhere here in the house, but sort of give up now.
would two or three flashes the optimal setup?
i’m thinking, most likely need the x1 for on camera trigger, off camera flashes.
should i mix and match with tt600 and tt685 for the additional flashes for three flash setup and a little cost saving? or two 685?
should i just sell the 350 and get 600 or 685 in its place instead?…
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A fun shot I took with the Opteka 15mm f4 Macro (mounted in Nikon F). Honestly, while this lens can focus to 1:1 at 4mm, that's been the minority of my shots with it so far, as it's so difficult to work that close, and on APS-C the wide-angle macro isn't as dramatic visually as it'd be on full frame.
On the other hand, it's sharp and takes lovely photos. I'd rather have a Fuji 16mm f1.4 for most applications, but for the $149 it cost, I'm super happy with it.
Fuji X-T1 w/Opteka 15mm f4
ISO200, 1/100, f16 or 22
Processed in Capture One and finished in Photoshop…
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I have the impression that there is a way to use a cell phone's GPS system to add GPS location to the data captured with each image. I have also read online that it is difficult to do and that there doesn't seem to be one pathway that seems the best. I wonder if there is a consensus on how to do this…
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I received announcement from Fujilove of yet another new eBook on the Fuji X cameras that claims to have every answer for every problem! With over 300 pages and 50k words, self proclaimed writer Dan Bailey describes his own new book as
so I was wondering if anyone has bought it yet, and can comment on it's value...
Note: I am neither recommending, nor bashing this book…
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How do you view both these speedlights in terms of performance and ergonomics on the X series, specifically X-Pro2? I am just a retiree who likes to shoot family events. Actual user comments would be appreciated…
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Has anyone used or read anything about this bag? Thanks!
Gouache Harvey Camera Bag (Fatigue Green) - Qamay San Francisco…
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VW Bettle 1.2 Design . White Silver [ actually pale blue.grey ] beige interior .
Elegant , rather than sporty .
With discount a substantial , for me , £17,500 .
Ordered 31 Oct 2016 .
Registered 3rd March 2017
Delivered 8 March 2017
Bought because 14 year old battered , Alfa Romeo 147 diesel started to play up with engine management light and other electrics .
Wanted another 3door coupe . brief test drive , for financial reasons , bought through an agent with my being 1st owner .
At the time also looked at the Alfa Romeo Guilietta , but no discount from the agent .
Now it is substantial - like £3000 !! It would be less than I paid for the Beetle @ £17.000.
It is a similar drive to my 147 , so I know it .
Mostly still using the old Alfa which seems to have settled down after a few high revs to clear out the injectors , until tax etc runs out in Oct
... so just 700 miles on the Beetle !!
I love the colour and ambiance , my family and I find the seats hard , steering wheel slippery leather , buzzy [ [ too ?] quiet engine to work out which gear I am in ...
O.K , I have not given it much of a chance , but my wife complains about the headrest hurting her head , and the seat hard , so it's been difficult .
Just feels not for me .
If I try to sell , I will lose around £3.000 , but if I keep it , it will have to last me out ... maybe 10 or more years with a car I am unsure about ...
This has never happened to me since 1970 , although I was not thrilled with a Citroen Xantia , it was OK of getting to work .
Gotta dee'cide , I guess .
Took this picture in Yosemite somewhere near Glacier Point
Not sure if the purple collar is a sensor issue of the X-T10 or a "feature" of that particular species of lizards, but I was quite positively surprised at how well the 10-24mm did at 24mm f/5.6 with this subject.
As you might guess, I didn't have time to switch the lens (I only had the 35mm with me anyways) and wasn't prepared to shoot a little critter, so this image happened quite spontaneously…
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Walk along the riverbank today ... met this obliging fella
X-T2 (23 1.4)…
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Am a longterm photographer, both analog and digital, but a newcomer to the world of Fuji and Fujifilm - just picked up a lightly used (and oh-so-pretty!) X70 for a more-than-reasonable price. I'm trying to get it set up for certain kinds of shooting and have run into a problem that I'm hoping one of the more experienced Fujians or x70 veterans can help me with.
Much and in fact most of my shooting tends to be done in Aperture priority, and I like being able to have a dedicated focus (or back-focus) button for focusing on a specific subject, before composing and/or framing and/or metering (getting the exposure I want) ... before finally shooting. Usually this is doable on most of the other higher end digital cameras I've shot with.
On my x70, I've done the following - I have my AE/AF-lock button set to AF-L only, which I use to lock focus. The AE/AF-Lock Mode is set to Switch. This allows me to lock focus first, especially important if I'm shooting close to wide open, with a limited depth of field. But then - the next thing I would love to be able to do - would be to somehow lock exposure - usually on a highlight or brighter area somewhere in my frame, something that becomes even more helpful with contrasty subjects. And --- I can't figure out how to do that (to lock or set exposure or metering on a part of my subject)
I read somewhere one Fujifilm photographer's solution to this self-same problem - he says that he simply depresses the shutter button halfway - which, supposedly, locks the exposure. EXCEPT --- it doesn't seem to work that way on my x70? Depressing the shutter halfway doesn't do much of anything.
I've looked through layers of menus and buttons and configurations, but can't seem to find a simple and clear solution to this problem. Can anyone help me out here? Am I missing something, somewhere?…
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Hi, I am new to the world of modern cameras, I have used a 15 year old Sony cyber shot compact (tiny), and my phone. I am looking get a proper camera having taken early retirement from train driving. One decision I have now made, is that a fixed lens camera is what I want. The X100t and X100f are the two that I have identified and will be buying used. My problem is that as a technophobe, all the new cameras look a bit daunting! What do forum members think of these cameras for a beginner, with regard all the setting on board and ease of use. My other question is, which would you buy as a first and only camera out of the two, with the extra cost involved. The X100t is trending at around £650 used and theX100f around £950 used. Any advice is much appreciated. Cheers…