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Mostly shot on Classic Chrome, but some Velvia and ACROS. Mostly untouched (SOOC) except 2nd post.
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Actually I have no idea if this is a tern - it was just an attempt at
clever title.
At a Florida wildlife preserve near Titusville, XT1 55-200 F7.1 1/500 sec ISO-1000 focal length 200mm…
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At a Florida wildlife preserve near Titusville, XT1 55-200 F7.1 1/1000 sec ISO-1000 focal length 200mm. No post-processing other than cropping.
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I just got my new X-T1 from B&H a couple weeks ago and sometime over the last couple days, my screw on sync port cover disappeared. I didn't bang the camera against anything and I don't use flash often (and haven't at all with this camera). After sending a copy of my B&H receipt to Fuji, they sent out a little parts kit that includes this cover. I just can't believe it unscrewed itself and fell off.
Has this happened to you?…
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I have a Fotodiox Pro adapter with an aperture ring. It's supposed to work for all Nikon lenses. I want to use a couple of D lenses WITH aperture rings. I'm getting conflicting information on where to set the aperture ring on the Fotodiox before mounting the D lens. A salesman at B&H told me to have the aperture wide open, but a YouTube video I watched looked like it should be all the way closed. Please help with the correct information. Just to be clear, I'm talking about Nikon lenses with aperture rings, which the G lenses don't have. TIA…
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Just arrived home from the Photography show in Birmingham with my new baby, I cleared some old and unused Canon gear and acquired a 56 f1.2. :D
Looking forward to attaching this new beauty to my X-Pro1 and taking the combination out for a walk at some point in the next few days, will post some pictures after our first outing.
Happy happy happy :D:D:D
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X-T2, 18-55mm
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Common Grackles can be so pretty ....
X=T2 and 100-400mm
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$140 worth it to have the rubber grip & door repaired?
Camera still works fine, grip peeling and bumbling up all over, never use camera door ports, could just glue it shut forever.
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Apparently, people are getting it done free last year, but when I called they quoted $140 USD labor and only the rubber parts free…
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I know the D850 and A7III trump the DR of the Fuji, however managed the following from my X-T20 and impressed. Exposed to JUST keep the sun from clipping, and recovered 4 stops from the shadows and pulled the highlights back. The original RAW showed the shadows as basically did the JPEG. This is a single shot, no HDR.
Very impressed, although I usually shoot JPEG unless in high-contrast like this.
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Still trying out this acrylic perspex. Taken with X-T20 + XF 35mm f2.
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“Third Time is a Charm” or so they say. My first X-T2 was a used item purchased from B&H. It had numerous dark spots on the sensor and was sent back. My second X-T2 was purchased new from a local dealer. I took it home. Charged up the battery, took it outside and shot the sky at f16 and guess what? Yep, there were dark spots on the sensor so back to the dealer it went and I began to wonder about Fuji's current quality control.
Last week I purchased a previously owned X-T2 from a member of this board. It arrived on Sunday (Yes the USPS does deliver such packages on Sunday) I mounted it with one of my 18-55mmm lenses and with some degree of trepidation went outside and shot up into the sky. HEY!! It’s free of dark spots. YEA!!! Oh by the way the seller was forum member Please login or register to view links and his communication throughout the transaction and even after was great and the camera arrived quickly and as described…
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Would like some feedback on this photo please. Composition - is the gentleman framed correctly. (I cropped out the road, cars and the sign with a € on it, as I wanted to make it a little more timeless.) Shot around 3pm on a sunny Saturday winter afternoon.
Shot with x-e2 and 18-55 @42mm, f/5.6, 1/600 ISO 200.
Many thanks for taking the time to suggest corrections.
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Took part in a photographers and models social meet up event on Sunday. Here's a quick preview, I'll be adding on as I edit and work my way through.
All shot with the Fuji X-T2 and 35mm f1.4/56mm f1.2/90mm f2.0. Lighting, for the most part, is a Profoto D1 with the zoom reflector mounted. I did borrow my buddies Broncolor Siros 800 as he had a cool modifier I wanted to try out. (you can see it at work in the close up headshot).
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I have been retired for four years now and I was hoping that I would have been practicing my photography a lot more than I have done. My expertise(!) is in stills film photography and in the recent past have set up a darkroom in an out-house at the bottom of our garden. It's already to go its just a bit cold at the moment.
I bought my first digital camera some years ago. Its an Olympus Camedia C-5060 5.1 megapixels.
It served me well for holiday snaps and such like but was aware a while ago that I needed a more modern camera. I was aware of the X100 when I saw a photograph of it a few years ago now on the front cover of a popular photography mag. and have followed its development ever since. To check that I would get on with Fuji I bought an X-A2 complete with a kit zoom off Ebay at a good price and then bought a refurbished 27mm pancake lens from Fuji. Love it! - but its absolutely hopeless in bright light as you can't see the screen very well. So now I am toying with the idea of getting the X100f or the X-E3, can't decide which yet. Today I'm thinking X-E3 as I can use the lenses I already have, but tomorrow it might be the X100f because of its built in flash and fixed lens.
I had some trouble joining this forum as I wasn't receiving a confirmation email, even after three days. I surmised that my hotmail address might be a problem so changed it to an icloud address and pronto it worked straight away…
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I have an XE-2s with the XF18-55 kit lens and am very pleased with this. I am now thinking about taking proper wide angle photos and have therefore read lots of reviews about the Samyang 12mm and just a few on the Fujinon XC15-45. I would welcome advice on which one would be the better choice. Here in the United Kingdom both lenses are similarly priced. I never take action/sports shots, mainly concentrating on landscape and street scenes with some interior shots of cafés and old buildings. I have taken some photos in manual mode and realise the importance of checking the histogram before taking photos, but I find AF easier. The salient points I have noticed are the f2 of the Samyang vs the less bright nature of the Fujinon, which is offset by the latter's built in OIS and its flexibility of focal length vs fixed, but it is obviously only 15mm vs the 12mm of the Samyang. Also, as I already have the XF18-55, buying a similar if slightly less wide zoom might be a bit silly.....
Your advice would be most welcome and helpful…
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My wife and I hiked a few trails on Monte Sano Mountain this weekend. It's early spring here, and we saw some interesting wildflowers and trees (both living and dead).
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I'll post a few more photos in a follow-up reply.
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A small experiment with the XF100-400 + TC1.4 + TC2 + MCEX11 + MCEX16
You cannot use the 2 teleconverters at the same time. That is not possible because you cannot get them together!
A teleconverter can work together with an MCEX, which works fine but that limits you in the zoom factor! That is also true because that is what the MCEX was made for.
So why not use an MCEX to connect the 2 teleconverters. That is possible physically but does it work? And what does it do on the maximum zoom?
Below is what I have done in total 13 different combinations made.
They are JPG out of the camera, no special object photographed, and not sharpened and made fairly quickly. With more attention, the photos might be sharper.
So it is possible, but it is also usable. I think very limited.
I do not want to prove anything, I was only curious.
In my second post are the photos!
NR. | Zoom | Photo nr. | Lens | (TC and MCEX)
Nr. 01 | 100 | 44006 | XF100-400
Nr. 02 | Max | 44007 | XF100-400
Nr. 03 | Max | 44008 | XF100-400 + XF1.4xTC
Nr. 04 | Max | 44009 | XF100-400 + XF2xTC
Nr. 05 | Max | 44010 | XF100-400 + MCEX 11
Nr. 06 | Max | 44013 | XF100-400 + MCEX 11 + XF1.4xTC
Nr. 07 | Max | 44014 | XF100-400 + MCEX 11 + XF2xTC
Nr. 08 | Max | 44015 | XF100-400 + MCEX16
Nr. 09 | Max | 44016 | XF100-400 + MCEX16 + XF1.4xTC
Nr. 10 | Max | 44018 | XF100-400 + MCEX16 + XF2xTC
Nr. 11 | Max | 44019 | XF100-400 + MCEX 11 + XF1.4xTC + XF2xTC
Nr. 12 | Max | 44020 | XF100-400 + MCEX16 + XF1.4xTC + XF2xTC
Nr. 13 | Max | 44021 | XF100-400 + MCEX 11 + MCEX16 + XF1.4xTC + XF2xTC…
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I hate this winter, so thought I`d have some fun. X-T20 + XF 35mm f2, shells on some acrylic perspex as I like it I think I will try some flowers soon. Two more in reply.
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Even though this appears to be Monochrome it is actually a colour photo. Shooting into the early morning sun created this monochromatic look.
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i've read a few manuals for the X100F and want to confirm that even if a attach a teleconverter lens adapter on it i will not be able to save those images in a raw format.
i shoot a lot of portraits and have used the digital zoom which i know is unable to write as a raw file. i was pleasantly impressed with the quality of the jpegs, but i also need to record in raw and assumed if i bought the teleconverter lens i could shoot with it in raw.
obviously haven't bought it yet or i would have found out :)
but if i can't shoot raw with a teleconverter on my X100F, bummer plus, and i won't be spending the money
please tell me i'm wrong and not just stupid for not researching enough before i bought it…
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A jaunt to a local estuary and I came upon this little guy. I have been trying LR6 alternatives to processing and find Darktable does a pretty good job in the demosaic step. Now I just have to work on everything else :)
X-T2; 100-400mm
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I think I can manage to strip the Bayer filter (CFA) off the sensor of an X-A1 (there is a procedure on internet and I'm tempted to try with an extra X-A1 that I have).
I want the pure mono for purposes related to astrophotography.
But I wondering about the demosaicing algorithm that the camera uses to "interpret" the signal from the sensor.
Does the algorithm kick in before or after the RAW file is saved ???
I'm talking about the algorithm used to figure which "green" pixels were probably "supposed to be" blue or red, as described in this reference:
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I just discovered the Fuji X system 2 weeks ago although observing it alreday for more than a year now.
Coming originally from Canon FF for more than 20 years with a professional experience as a sports&news photographer in the 90s, I switched to m43 in 2013. Now I am testing the Fuji X system and lets see if it fits my needs…
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The best laid plans...
We arranged to meet up with Micky of the forum in Dent, Cumbria. The East Coast got the worst of the snow and unfortunately he couldn't make it but we had a great couple of days.
A 6 mile walk with my wife, evening meal in the pub and a great campsite right in the middle of a delightful and historic village.
X-T2 and 10-24
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I've had the camera for a handful of weeks. It is super and has taken priority over my X-T1! However, even though I've lifted the brightness to +5, the evf is very dark when photographing outside. I can hardly see what I am taking! It is somewhat better indoors, and the screen is very bright.
Advice please…
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Sorry couldn't lean further out of the window.
X-T20 18-55mm at 6400 ISO.
untitled (1 of 1).jpg
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In two days I’d set up to trade in my X-T2 and X100F. Read a post tonight and it’s smashed me around a bit. I’ve spent over $20K on fuji since swapping over with lens etc. but..I think something isn’t right lately with Fuji. I think they’re rushing product on the market too quick. My local Fuji store ( the biggest in my city ) had to return ALL their 50-140’s due to dust in the lens. My friend brought a 90mm last month, a human hair was inside and needed to be returned. The retailer is now nervous about quality. When I brought the 56 APD he made me try all 6 to make sure I got the right one. We have a fuji day shoot, staff roll up with iPhones not knowing anything about Fuji. It’s getting ridiculous.
Here is the post that’s stopped me in my tracks with getting the XH1 this week. The Xt3 needs to be a game changer. No pressure Fuji !!
“Hey guys. I spoke to Fujifilm today at the NEC photography show. I let em have it too!!.
I showed them all my video footage of the lock ups and freezes and my ibis faults. shockingly they ADMITTED there was a fault with the xh1 and KNEW ABOUT IT!.
They PROMISED me there was a firmware fix coming very soon! Fortunately the rep (tech) guy I spoke to. Knew of my YouTube channel and I told him I’d had lots of comments and messages relating to several issues from guys watching my channel. He promised me they were working on it and said it’s NOT THE BATTERIES OR MEMORY CARDS AT FAULT. Nor was it the grip. I felt so relieved they’d acknowledged the fault.
But then this...! “It’ll be fixed in firmware I promise very soon” he said.. to which I replied. “you didn’t manage to fix it on the X-T2!!” He replied yes we did... then looked at me again and said “ok no no we didn’t!” I said why doesn’t the xpro2 lock up?! Nor the xt1.. “we don’t know” he replied.. to which I replied. So how on Earth are you going to fix it???? He said “just trust us”
I left feeling frustrated but relieved that they knew of the issues and the video focus issues. Also the ibis issue.
I love Fujifilm. I really do but this is wrecking me!
Seperatly.. he confirmed ibis needs to be OFF when on a tripod. So I’ll need to make a shortcut for that then! I asked if the play button to be made a function button.. another rep there agreed it needed to be! (I use front body button for one handed play back)”…
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Instead of my usual morning walk, today I took out my XM-1 with 50-230 lens to capture some flowers which have been asking to be shot for so many days now. But the creature of habit that I am, I won't take my camera along. So today in the Indian New Year, I resolved to take out my camera more often. Hope you like them as much as I do. Thanks for stopping by.
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I've purchased the Minolta 100mm 2.8 Macro (1986)
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It has a sony A mount from what can I tell and doesn't seem to have an aperture ring.
Can anyone recommend an adapter for a Fuji x mount?…
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When this high contrast scene in downtown Vancouver presented itself, I staked it out for a while waiting for the right person to hit the right spot. It then took a bit of work editing to my satisfaction, but that's half the fun.
I started off in silver Efex. I think I used the Low Key 1 setting, which preserved some of the shadow detail. I then finished it off in Lightroom 6. The background building was dark enough that it was easy to paint over and use the clone tool to hide some distracting highlights.
Shot with X-T1 and 18-55.
Thanks for looking.
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Taken with the 18-135mm lens @ 135mm and f/5.6
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When using non-GF lenses, I realize you will be forced to use manual focus with the GFX, however, do you get any type of in-focus confirmation as with most other systems?…
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