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I was out looking for Native Orchids over the weekend. As we're now in Summer in Australia the variety of native orchids change.
Olympus OM-D E-M1 with 60mm macro
Elbow Orchid (Thynninorchis huntiana)
#1
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#2
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#3 With a shaky Australian 5c coin (approx size of a dime) to give some perspective of how small these orchids are.
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Thanks for looking…
The rubber eye-cup has come undone on one side. After suggestions from some other folks with the X-T2 etc, I pulled off the whole setup and unscrewed the plastic pieces that hold it in place and did my best to put back together, but it's coming off again.
Anyone else having similar issues?
I treat my camera well (I'm a professional, so I know how to look after gear), but I'm feeling either the rubber eyecup I have is defective (maybe missing a small tab in manufacturing?), or it's engineered a bit too flimsily…
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Weather not permitting to go outside so...
DeLorean at 1/18th (9 inches long)
X-T2, Mitakon 35mm
1/2s, f/1, ISO 100, minor contrast boost in photoshop.
Thanks for looking!
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Using a panning action, under bright sunlight, we captured K-36 Class, Durango & Silverton #482 as it drifts, note lack of smoke from the stack, past the Silverton station at about 10-12 mph on it’s way back to Durango, Colorado. We were lucky in capturing the locomotive in a “rods down” position which is considered the optimum for photographing steam powered locomotives.
Silverton 2012 172-Edit-2.jpg
Pentax K-110, (no image stabilization) ISO 200, 1/60ss, aperture priority, +1.0 Exposure Compensation, 18-55mm lens, f 6.7 at a focal length of 26mm…
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At last snow is coming!
This is Norway today, Dec 9th 2018
Bluish light, its half an hour past sunset.
xt2 with 35/2
DSCF5193 lorezcopy.jpg
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We have a 38 year tradition of sending out greeting cards with a picture of us on them. The older ones are of people that I no longer recognize!
Here's this years card. If you have a similar tradition I'd love to see what you do.
Shot with the XT1 and the Zeiss 12mm lens. Cropped to get this proportion.
PK.jpg
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Mysterious island, this - with a massive bulk out of all proportion to the nearby coastline. Add to this the fact that the cormorant in the photo was utterly fearless and didn't budge an inch over the whole five minutes I took on the shot - and you wonder what strange legends still hold sway from ancient times. Wishful thinking, of course, but our local cormorants would have flapped their wings and been off in seconds at such an encroachment. X70 18mm 1/60 @ f/5.6 ISO-640:
Isola Tavolara plus bird_edited-1.jpg
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Through the window...
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X-T1, 18-55 (55mm), ISO-1600, f4, 1/60sec, Classic Chrome JPG…
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I shot one of our local teams Friday during the PA State Championship game in Hershey. Shot with my XPro1 and Rokinon 8mm. I was there to focus on features photos and shoot video. I didn't shoot much action (and none with my XPro) but I did get these frames I thought I'd post here.
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Cool foyer!
Been there before. Really cool…
Likes: 5 / Replies: 1
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A local sculpture garden in my area opened a new exhibition and I was asked to take images of either the artists with their sculptures or people interacting with them.
Personally I hate the pressure of photographing someone else’s art, as you don’t know if you’ve presented it the right way.
Anyway...used my X-H1,16-55.
I actually found the artists to be a friendly bunch!
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The picture is taken from inside the bridge.
Bridge Vroenhoven.jpg
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XT2 Samyang 8mm 2.8
greet jakke
XT2F0286_HDR v4 FF.jpg
Likes: 14 / Replies: 1
Just a bit of fun really - seen on a doorstep in Chipping Campden on Halloween.....
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X-T2 and 18-55…
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Our magnificent King Protea!
My daughter and I spent some days in the mountains of Jonkershoek near Cape Town. We were lucky to see one still in bloom, since their season is pretty much over already.
X-T2 with 16mm
WBB FUJX9936_C1X King Protea_Protea cynaroides.jpg
And this is what most of them looked like
X-T20 with 55-200)
WBB FUJZ4747_C1X.jpg
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anyone else having this problem?
when exporting to (dng so i can open in) lightroom. the colors get all whacky.
in Capture One the photo looks fine. colors,details etc.
once exported to Lightroom i notice the "tint" is pegged at +150
moving this value back just makes it all the worse.
i can find no settings to adjust via the export dialog box in Capture One to prevent this from happening.
if I export a Tiff file then Lightroom sees it as intended (colors looks pretty close to Capture One) . but then it isn't a DNG file
hope someone can help.
thanks…
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Going thru a file from last year.... X-T2, 18-55
DSCF6527resize.jpg
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X-T1 + 50-140/2.8, 1/100 sec @ f/2.8, ISO 2500, 134.4mm, shot RAW processed in LR6
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Hi guys,
I am new to the forums. I dropped my X-T20 last night on a wooden table with the Meike grip and 18-55mm with lens hood attached. I did not notice any visible scratches or cracks in either body or lens.
This morning, I tried to use the camera and quickly noticed the autofocus was not working, in fact manual focus wasnt working either. I quickly reset the fuji shooting controls and menu settings to factory and same issue. No AF/MF, aperture ring does not work (always shows F/0) and now I cant even take pictures! (Before menu reset I was able to take out of focus pics). I confirmed the same issues exist on my 50mm F/2 lens.
I'm wondering if there are some settings I accidentally hit or if my body is in fact damaged (AF not working on 2 different lens). I appreciate all help and ideas!
Thank you,
Hayk…
Earlier this week I had the opportunity to do a photo shoot with singer/MC Erica Ambrin Burnett here in Sacramento. So far, I have to say I am quite pleased with what I got.
X-T20 and 35 1.4 or Konica 50 1.4
Blue Mood 2wm.jpg
On the Wall 1wm.jpg
Crouch Down Fence BWwm.jpg
Menorah lighting on the seventh of eight days. More Please login or register to view links.
181208_078_sep2.jpg
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I use the wonderful 18-55mm zoom lens for 80 percent of my photography with my X-E3. But when I want to travel light, I mount the 27mm f2.8 pancake lens, which turns the X-E3 into a pocketable camera. But more than a few times when I'm using the 27mm, I've wished the X-E3 had the digital zoom of the X100f. Maybe Fujifilm would consider adding that feature in the next firmware update for the X-E3. That would mean I could compose shots with my 27mm lens at the (35mm equivalents) of 40mm, 56mm and 80mm lenses. The addition of a digital zoom function on the X-E3 would certainly be encouragement for me to buy another prime lens, like the 18mm lens (which would become a 27mm, 40mm and 54mm lens). Does this feature appeal to other Fuji shooters?…
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Victory, my RRS BXT3-LSet, My L-Plate for my X-T3 arrived today. Happy Happy
20181208_120110.jpg
I took this photo in 1957 with a Heiland Pentax 35mm SLR - 50mm lens using Kodak Plus X film,developed by myself. The original photo is very contrasty with almost no detail in the whites and blacks. I photo copied it and edited it.
I always liked this shot.
This boy was the younger brother of someone I knew. He came from a broken family.His mother who he lived with was out of her mind.Very sad situation in the 50's.
Salamonie-Edit.jpg
This hasn't gotten much response over at DPR so thought I'd try here. Have searched these forums & haven't seen this problem posted here either. Got one response @ DPR re use of the XF14 showing the same problem. Looks like Fuji needs to fine tune the firmware.
Bought a used Touit 12mm & wanted to make sure it could be used for focus bracketing - yes it can-yeah! (All firmware up to date BTW - v4.3 & 1.03.)
While testing, noticed the final images in a set were all a touch soft at the greatest distance. Tried both the Touit & my XF16, apertures from 4-11, step sizes from 3-10. Compared to single images shot w/ the AF pointing at the furtherest part of the image, final images in sets were always at least a bit softer. The slight softness is hard to see w/o comparison to an image focused on the distant subject & peeping.
If you've not tried focus bracketing, the Fuji implementation has you set max # of images & Step size from 1 to 10. To start, focus on closest object - 1 foot in this test. If the max # of image is large enough, the camera will stop shooting when the lens reaches infinity even if that's fewer images. So at least for my XT2, the set stops slightly short of being at infinity for the last frame.
The obvious workaround for this is first shoot the most distant part of the scene. Then shot the bracketed sequence.
BTW I'm finding w/ these UWA lenses the Fuji captures a couple more images than are needed for a really sharp stack even w/ a Step size of 10.
This problem may be scene specific. Any of you encountered this?
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The LCD screen on my X-T1 works fine except to review images that I have taken. Then, I just have a black screen. I'm guessing it is a setting somewhere, but I can't find it. Any ideas? "There is no such thing as a dumb question."…
Chama 532-Edit Reduced.jpg
In preparation for heading up the next days scheduled passenger run, C-18 Class, narrow gauge, locomotive #315, which was built by the Baldwin Locomotive Works in 1895, is seen moving through the Chama New Mexico yard late in the afternoon, heading toward the coal loading area. Owned and operated by an independent group but in conjunction with the Cumbres and Toltec Railroad, this is one of the few locomotives that retains lettering from it's former owner. Please login or register to view linkswhich you might have seen and not even realized it. And if you would like to learn about Please login or register to view links
Likes: 19 / Replies: 11
I have recently used Fujifilm X-T1 with a 18-55mm / f2.8-4 zoom lens. Although it is not a very bright lens, it manages to photograph in dark concert conditions. However, the problem was for me a difficult spotlight that illuminated the faces of the artists too brightly, in addition the background was underexposed (high contrasts). Using the Canon system, I corrected it somehow in Darktable. Last time I tried using the X-T1 with the Classic Chrome movie simulation and the effects are great. Despite the same bad lighting conditions, I received very good quality in JPG files. Working in manual mode with time 1/30 and 1/60 second and with apertures f2.8-4 (ISO 800-1600) I got very good results. Even if I had an exposure of -1 / 3 when taking a photo, the picture was of very good quality. The most important thing, however, is that the color and tone of human skin has significantly improved, which is probably influenced by Classic Chrome. Finally, I'm happy with the change of the system from Canon to Fuji. My guess is that by using fixed focal lenses, I will get even better quality images.
Mike
(Please forgive the quality of the translation, this is a autotranslator)…
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4515_kor.jpg
X-T1, 18-55 (55mm), ISO-1600, f4, 1/60sec, Classic Chrome JPG, exposure -1/3 EV…
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Huntington Library, San Marino
Shot by my (still favorite for sports today) Canon 7D MK2, 100-400 MK2
1/1250s, f/5.6, ISO 400
Thanks for looking!
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Likes: 17 / Replies: 2
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