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Hi fellow forum members,

Not so much a Fuji question, but this is the only forum I read frequently, so I might as well ask for you kind words of advice. I'll be heading to Iceland this coming August, a mix of family + photography trip (and don't tell me I can't mix, it's the only chance I have :) ).

I know that several forum members have been to Iceland (and more than once from what I remember). I'll spend there 10 days touring the country with a campervan doing the ring road itinerary. Would you mind sharing with me your favorite places for photography, and any other good photographic tips there? Of course I have a ton of travel books, but those are mostly geared towards general tourism and your advice will help me a great deal.

BTW, my gear will be my favorite for nature trips, X-T2, 10-20, 16-55, 55-200, lots of filters, tripod, etc. I have settled on this combination after many international trips, and works best for me.

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More photos from our river drive. Princeton, IA. Good bet this is a repurposed financial institution now serving as a library.
X-T2 23mm f/2
Alarmed Library
by David, on Flickr
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The first of many sets. More on my blog.

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What filter do I need?
Common problem getting the sky and the landscape to the correct exposure. Sky too bright, land too dark.
Would prefer a circular filter.
Do I need a Linear Polarised?
I'm not sure about graduated filters, does anyone recommend them?
Does a UV (C) help?
I was looking at Hoya, or does anyone recommend another brand?

Thank you for any information
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just signed up to the forum and saying hi.

Bought a Fuji XPro 2 Graphite body, 23 F2 & 35 F2 today.

Just been working through the menus tonight, first foray into taking some images tomorrow.

Been interested in getting a decent camera and getting more images again.
Used to have a full frame Canon 5d II, years ago, but got fed up with the weight and bulk of gear etc.

Reverted to my standby Ricoh GR and captured some great images from a really small camera.

Looking forward to getting some images and playing with the different film settings.
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Shot pairs before, but only a little bit.
I'm going to try it again.
When I hit playback on the X-t1 all I can see is the B&W jpeg.
I can't see the color raw file.
I know that playback converts a raw file to a jpeg to view on the LCD.
I think whats happening is the camera sees the B&W jpeg and displays it
It's the first jpeg it sees so it doesn't process the raw.
Is ther a way to view the raw file as well? (which would be color)
Looked in menus and couldn't find anything.
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After such bad luck with Nikon repair, regarding my body and lenses, I decided to jump ship and go all Fuji! I only have the 18-55 that came with my X-E1, but a 90 f2 is in sight!

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I have been trying the Fuji remote app with my XT-2 and my iphone. Does auto focus work while using the app, if so how do I trigger it? I find it difficult to manually focus while looking at the iPhone image.
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Hey folks, anyone know if it's possible to shoot or edit to black and white in play mode with the Xe2s? And if so how? Thanks
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Thanks to all who looked at my images. Part of the joy of photography is feedback from others.
This is a response to some of your questions and comments.

My posting was about a new camera and the joy of using it, especially in New York City, New York.

We choose our photographic tools to fit our needs. I understand why I have seen responses of others saying if they could have only take one camera, it would be an X100 series camera. My minimalist camera for travel now is the X100F. Answer: It is a very good travel camera indeed.

I am not a camera reviewer just a follower of reviews. There are lots of great cameras out there, but I am possible now wearing blinders; I’m hooked on Fuji X series cameras they responded to my needs so well. In my previous thread of the X100F I used the word concise describing the camera. One reader wanted to know what I meant by “concise” – yes, it is not only compact but also snappy or short and sweet and brief in form but comprehensive in scope. It’s a tool; it’s maybe my minimal camera sports car. (Poor descriptive words for a review.) These words may not really describe a camera’s qualities or capability, but my X100F performed very well for me. I am mainly expressing my satisfaction with it. Answering question -- Is it concise???

The model by the fountain and pilot were serendipitous moments. I was looking at the fountain and Radio City building in the background when this attractive young lady came up to another stranger asking him if he would take a picture of her by the fountain with her cell phone. After the picture was taken, I approached and commented on her on her attire and the fun she put into her poses. Then I asked if she would pose for me on the fountains edge. She agreed. I set the camera on manual mode, the ISO on 200, selected f2 for aperture, exposure time 1/125 sec., giving an overall under exposure of -1. I then turned the flash which was set at a minus ¾ stop setting; composed and pressed the shutter. The camera worked, I got my image –one exposure and it was over. The ambient and flash blended well. The pilot wearing the goggles was simply sitting and watching high line walkers. I asked if I could record an image of him, and he agreed. I placed my aperture at f2.8; the camera did the rest. These happenstances or serendipitous moments happen if you’re just out there working at it.

My images were taken mostly on full auto allowing me to do my thing. The ease and control of the camera functions are well laid out.

My last visit to New York was 20 years ago without camera. This trip was with a new camera and photography on my mind. What a city for feeding one’s photographic yearnings with opportunity. My first image of the trip was from a taxi cab, Kennedy Airport to Manhattan. I have looked at this view in other places many times – taxi cab meter, driver, road at night. Now with a new camera in hand & photography on my mind, I was seeing possibilities at a different level of awareness. Photography in New NYC, NY was like a dance; me and my subject with camera between. On this vacation walk-about, new visual photographic serendipitous moments appeared. Those people I encountered and recorded seemed to enjoy our exchange and my compact camera in hand was accepted as the norm. Answering question: Did not see Bloomingdales though (tongue in cheek).

My tool of choice an X100F with its fixed 23mm lens did at times cause me to wish for an 18mm lens. This foray was about simplicity, compactness, and not changing or fiddling with lenses on this trip. Answering questions: Possibly a WCL wide-angle converter in the future?

Another asked if I visited B&H photo. Yes, but the store was closed--lucky for my pocket book; unlucky for B&H daily sales.

I enjoy your comments and the opportunity of share images with you. It’s all about the joy of photography. Thanks.
_X1F4568.jpg _X1F4697.jpg _X1F5224.jpg _X1F5325.jpg _X1F5373.jpg
Remember this is not a review, just the words of an over-zealous X100F owner.

What the heck. I’m going to post another five more images on line
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Working distance: Roughly 1.4-1.5 meters, fully zoomed SOOC (resized in LR export only)

Works surprisingly nice with both extenders at the same time. Not hard to focus. Need to close aperture (reminder to self)

1/300s - f/ 4.8 - ISO 500 - 200mm + MCEX-11 + MCEX-16

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Hello Everyone,

Well I pulled the trigger yesterday on a brand new X Pro 2 with the 35mm lens! I have always wanted a range finder style camera, and I will most likely never be able to drop the dollars for a Leica. I stumble upon the X Pro 2 and became very impressed with reviews and youtube videos, in short the camera fit the bill of what I wanted. To begin with, the range finder style digital camera. 2 a camera that wont break my budget. 3 Its not my intention to replace my current gear setup, which is Nikon d750 and an assortment of lenses, with a lot of years experience. To clarify I am in NO WAY a pro , just a hobbyist who LOVES photography! Last but not least I wanted to broaden my horizon in the photography world and most important....... have fun.
My online moniker is Valsmere, real world Brian. I reside in Southern New Jersey, near Philly. Married with one child I also devote some time to fishing and hunting. I hope to learn more as that's my intention behind this new purchase.
Cheers Valsmere (Brian)
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Two days ago I noticed that I couldn't turn On/Off switch from Off to On on my XT-1. It is like stuck bad. I had to struggle to turn it On. On to Off wasn't bad. Tried couple of times and it seems I need to send it in to Fuji. My shutter speed dial hasn't be working for more than a yr but I could use the front dial to change SS> I am not happy with long term reliability of my XT-1. My 10-12 yr old canon never had any of these kind of issues.
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Found on a stroll along the beach and photographed on my Lumix GX7. Post processing in Photoshop CC and Nik Efex.


Once a Warrior.jpg
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I've just returned from 2-weeks traveling through Glasgow, Belfast and Dublin.
This shot from the shore of Loch Lomond was taken in the rain.
Hand held, manual focus, X-E1 with SMC Takumar 85mm f1.8 (M42). ISO400 and 1/1250.

Loch Lomond DSCF3276 50%.jpg
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For quite some time I've seen the IBIS on Fuji discussion being brought to light and the conclusions always seem to be that either it is impossible or it would come at a image quality cost, one can tell that Fuji won't compromise image quality and it would be obvious that that reason alone would stir a change to Fuji's current IS system out of question.

I'm aware that moving the sensor on a Fuji X camera would cause heavy and harsh vignetting and clearly Fuji thinks that far outweighs any quality gain on the center of the image, but the IBIS advantages over OIS systems were enough to feed a long discussion, for instance IBIS:

  • Stabilizes in more axis than optical technology (more effective at mitigating twisting motion);
  • Accomplishes stabilized footage on all lenses;
  • Enables the implementation of Pixel-Shift technology, a solution that was already implemented by Olympus and Pentax, it gives the user the possibility to take super high resolution images.
Until now nothing I said is new, before the Fuji X-T2 came out I wouldn't even bother writing this article, but Fuji began taking video seriously and what I've noticed is that IBIS is particularly useful for video. Why is this relevant? When recording video the camera only reads out the information from the inner part of the sensor thus allowing room for the sensor to be shifted without the risk of affecting the video quality near the edges of the frame.

Pixel-Shift could also be a possibility, Fuji glass is sharp and I'm confident it can resolve more than 24MP, but due to the nature of the X-Trans pixel array the process wouldn't be quite as simple as with the Bayer sensors, the problem is that Pixel-Shift shifts the sensor by half-pixel length in four different directions and, while on a Bayer array it places a red a blue and 2 different green photo-diodes in the same place thus creating a virtual pixel, on a X-Trans array there is always one place in the nine photo-diode array that is overlaying 4 green photo-diodes, for example track the place of the upper-left green photo-diode in the 4 green group as the sensor shifts up-left-down-right. I suppose a image processing algorithm could correct this.

Also IBIS could be adapted for stills as an hybrid system, the OIS would take care of the up-down and left-right stabilization while IBIS takes care of the other 3 axis. By doing so the vignetting would only be an issue in the corners of the image.

As you can see I'm speculating but I'm under the impression that I'm not thinking nonsense. What do you think?
Has anyone come up with a way to diffuse home window lighting? I would like to get the incoming light softer.

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In my thread entitled “The Experiment” I posted a link to my report on using my recently acquired X100 to document a motorcycle trip I took to meet up with a couple of Fuji shooters. What I did not mention was one capability of the X100 that I discovered quite by accident and that is it’s ability to focus in near pitch dark environments. During my testing of the X100 I had set the ISO to 400 and set it to program mode, Aperture set to “A” and Shutter speed set to “A” and turned the flash on "forced flash" just to see what it would do in a very dark room. With the focus area set to the smallest and at it's "home" center position, to my surprise I got the beep that indicated it had achieved focus and the flash went off and the camera took the first image. At the time I was about 15 feet away from that series of book cases. The first image is the original JPEG file just downsized for posting.

To show how dark it was in the room at that time, I shut the flash off and manually set the camera to all the settings it had used in the program mode which were ISO 400, 1/30 second at f2.0 and took another image which you see below and demonstrates how dark the room actually was. I am not sure if this low light focusing ability has been mentioned often but I could not find much discussion on the subject which I would consider a major asset.
Fuji X100 Low Light Focus 001a.JPG

Fuji X100 Low Light Focus 002a.JPG
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Just had my x10 returned from Fuji UK after some repairs including a new optical viewfinder, a new rear (thumb) grip and the sound system.
They only had the camera a little over a week.
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My camera bag trinity is complete after acquiring this lovely messenger bag from Manfrotto

1. Neewer Sling bag -> link to review

2. Cheerwing Backpack -> link to review
3. Manfrotto Bumblebee M-10 Messenger bag

CAMERA setup:
Fujifilm X-T2 + 16mm f1.4 + Veritcal Power Booster (main lens on camera and the VPB always stays on)
Also in the bag the EF-X500 flash, Zoom H2n external mic, Manfrotto tabletop tripod kit 209, 492 long. Additional batteries, headphones, Zeiss lens cleaning cloths.

Very satisfied with the size of this bag. Did not want something too big so decided to go with the Medium size model (they do have a large model). Main concern with the bags I have been looking for is if they can easily fit my X-T2 with the vertical power booster..... and that they have a quick access compartment to the camera that also can easily fit this X-T2 setup. The first two bags listed above do that perfectly. The specs of the Manfrotto Bumblebee M-10 can be found on the amazon or Manfrotto page - for more info watch the video and hope you like it. This bag is a keeper!

Link to AMAZON

VIDEO review:

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Just over a month ago I gifted myself with a Zhiyun Crane to use with my X-T2! It's taking a bit of practice to get it down, but I'm still really pleased with the X-t2 video capabilities! I thought I'd share these two examples with you all!

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I just received my new 50mm f2 today, to pair it up with my 35mm f2, I also have a Ricoh GR that use as my personal 18mm.

I love the performance of my 35mm f2, and It looks like the 50mm f2 is on par. But I feel like the seperation as far as FOV difference is not as big as I woud have thought (25mm difference). I thought about trading my 35mm for the 23mm f2, but Im afraid that the 23mm f2 might not be as good a performer as the 35mm f2 as Ive heard some people mention.

Anyone else own both 35mm and 50mm and how do you guys feel about the difference in FOV? Are they different enough to own both lens?
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I just processed some pictures from Boston yesterday, and they ended up evolving on my screen to have (what I would call) "postcard style". I am happy with them as they turned out, and thought maybe an open thread would be appealling.
These were with an X-A1 and the 18-55 zoom (my least-used lens!).

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Ho to all the members.i recently got a used xe2 and the count on my pics read986-5680.does anyone know what the first three numbers represent?
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For those of you who remember my original post and my project to try and photograph the Jewish Burqa Sect in Jerusalem

Jerusalem for the Street Photographer

Today, I threw total caution aside and photographed a Burqa woman face on....

DSCF9266T copy.jpg
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Blackpool on Lancashire's Fylde coast is one of my favourite places for a photo-walk. Armed with a flask of tea, a few sandwiches and an unobstrusive camera - it's a great place for photography as long as the Summer crowds are avoided.

This was taken with my X10 a few weeks ago. Processed in Lightroom and Photoshop CC.


The Seaside.jpg
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If any forum members are interested, please enjoy this video put together by Martin Hill. Damien and Martin are planning another adventure in 2018.

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Albany, NY
X100S,WCL, F5.6, ISO 200
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I have been using my T2 in BW film emulation since a bought it. As I generally work with RAW I can process later either in colour or BW.

Today I was shooting some very colourful scenery and switched to a colour mode.

The VF shows everything with a strong red hue, or a lack of G & B. The RAWs are perfect but the JPGs as seen in the VF.

I must have some colour setting incorrect but can't find it!? :-(

B&W JPGs produce correctly.

Would appreciate any ideas on where the problem may lie.


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I have been using AE BKT on my Pro 2 and T2 for HDR.

I think a recent firmware change has changed the way it works on the Pro2. When you select AE BKT I remember it asked for +- f-stops. I usually use 1 2/3. It doesn't ask any more. Where can I set the range for the apertures?

Or am I confusing myself with other X cameras? My T2 is set to 1 2/3 stops.


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In case anyone is interested :)

Silver XF23mm: £309.99 (7 left)
Silver XF35mm: £300 (3 left)
Silver XC50-230: £209 (7 left)

Each one has 2 years guarantee and extra 2 years for £15

Fujifilm 39mm Protector Filter £14.99 (3 left)

Fujifilm | Photography Offers | John Lewis
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X-Pro2, Revuenon 55mm f1.2

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Walking around town a few weeks ago, I came across a local Morris side giving it their best.

This fellow is called Brent, he's as nice a bloke as you could wish to meet and he's quite fond of the odd glass of cider. The team he's a member of is called Stone the Crows and the style of dance they perform is known as Border Morris because of its origins in the English counties that border Wales.

Fuji X10 with all processing done in Photoshop CC and Nik Efex.


Border Dancer.jpg
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I am looking to get a Nikon lense to put on my Fuji XT10, Do I have to get Metabones for better quality control or are there others I could consider which also may save me money? I also notice Metabones has a G & F version I am assuming that the G is for the new lenses is that correct?
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