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Hello you lovely people,
I currently find myself between systems at the moment having sold my Nikon DSLR and every lens I owned that went with it.
My reasons are primarily to downsize in respect of both weight and size.
I'm drawn towards the Fuji or the Panasonic mirrorless brands but could be persuaded in another direction if the arguments were compelling enough.
Anyway, to the point.
Does anyone have any information regarding the warranties issued by camera manufacturers in respect of:
a) does anyone provide a worldwide warranty?
b) how would this work if the item was purchased in the UK for example but a claim was made elsewhere?
c) if I purchase equipment directly from Japan or the USA how would that impact on the warranty?
d) any comments welcome about why different countries have different warranties - does a Fuji or Panasonic or Olympus bizarrely become less or more reliable depending on the country in which it was bought?
Any help or clarification would be really helpful.
Thanks in advance.
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Did a short video vlog on the GFX with Adapted lenses and examples. This sis my first ever video and I’m already aware of the many mistakes I’ve made so please be kind.
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It's not known -or intended, as a lens for wildlife, let alone birds, but today I tested the 50 to see how far I could push it. Was also testing the C-AF at the same time, which performed amazingly!
Great Egret. About a 50% crop. I'll admit there was quite a lot of chromatic aberration, but it cleaned up nicely in ACDSee Photo Studio.
Trout. Again, about 50% crop…
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Fuji X-T1 w/Opteka 15mm f4 Macro
ISO 200, 1/3, f16 (ish)
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just pulled the xe3 out of my bag...had left the camera on by mistake...and it was very hot, too hot, hotter than it's ever supposed to be.
i have to say that i am more than a little pissed off...i don't like complications, especially when it comes to pricey gear…
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Long post, sorry, but need your opinions.
I recently did a p/x with my old Nikon gear and am now the possesor of an X-Pro 2, 16, 23, 35, 56 and 90mm lenses plus an X100f. All lenses with filters both cameras with cases / half cases and straps and the hood adaptor for the x100f. I also have two spare batteries and enough memory cards and also soft press buttons on each body
The camera shop that did the deal is due to move in a couple of weeks to somewhere inconvenient and I am still in credit to the tune of £ 160. The trouble is I have no need or GAS for anything. I am not interested in lighting and already have a great carbon fibre tripod.
If this was you, and you needed to spend the money, what would you get. The only stipulation is that it must be for photography and work with the above kit.
£ 160 is the credit but I do not mind adding a bit but do not want to go madly over the top…
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Here's the deal...
I own one X-T1, and a number of nice lenses. While I'm not unhappy with that, we are looking at an overseas trip this winter and think it would be good to have an extra body. Since I can't afford a new X-T2, which is what I'd really want, I'm looking at other alternatives.
I definitely like the idea of the newer sensor, etc on the X-T20, but wonder if going from the X-T1 would be a difficult shift. I shoot all primes, mostly in manual mode, with a mix of AF and MF. I don't shoot video. Most of my work will be non-moving subjects. I do change ISO settings a fair amount, but not constantly.
Because we live in a remote area, I have no place to go fondle an X-T20. So choices right now are these two bodies, and since there is a sale going on for the X-T20, it is tempting.
How hard to change ISO on the fly? Does X-T20 have focus assist magnification, and is it easy to employ? How does the EVF work in comparison to the X-T1?
Thanks for any input…
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Hello, is it me you're looking for?
'Cause I wonder where you are
And I wonder what you do
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Old railoroad in Prague during this autumn.
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Hi everyone, I have a couple of really dumb questions. To start, I have ON1 Raw, and it is installed on Win. 10
Question 1. When bringing raw photos into a photo editing program, is the first thing that you do is convert the photo to a tif?, dng?, jpeg?, then do the editing? I am completely in the dark about that. If you are going to edit in the raw process, why create a tif, dng, etc.? I plan to send my photos out to have them printed. I also will do virtually all editing globally, no layers etc.
Question 2. If you are using tools such as eraser, crop tool, etc., is there a keyboard shortcut to quit the tool without just clicking another tool? (just return to the cursor?)
I know these are very basic to most people, but not me. I hope I have explained myself clearly.
Thanks in advance for any advice…
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It was only after pp that I saw this tattoo on her feet and the resemble with this photo.
XE2 & XF 18-135
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Hi everyone!
Anyone in the Manchester or surrounding areas up for a get together.
Open to ideas where, couple of brews or even a pint?
Let's take some pics and get to know other Fuji owners (other brands welcome :cool:)
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At Roche a Cri State Park in WI.
X-T2, 10-24mm
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thoughts on something like this:
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Anyone using?…
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Fuji XT-1 + XF 10-24
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I shoot with a Fujifilm X20 and love it. It's small, lightweight and rarely requires a tripod. I don't do people or street photography. I primarily shoot what catches my eye when I'm out walking in town or hiking in the country. My main interest is texture, contrast, patterns, detail, etc., small stuff most of us pass by. The X20 allows me to get in extremely close to what I'm shooting and still hand hold it.
My camera is getting a bit quirky, so it's time for me to consider a replacement. I've researched a lot and have borrowed and played with a few cameras and have decided I want a larger sensor, do NOT want full-frame or a DSLR and want to stay with Fujifilm.
The aesthetics of the range finder style body of the X-E3 calls me but the tilting monitor on the X-T20 and my tired old knees are leaning me in that direction. The 60mm macro would be nice as it'd allow for a bit more space between me and what I'm shooting. My concern is, with the added weight of either body and lens, will hand holding be out? If so, I'd consider the X100F, but as it isn't designed for close up shooting I'm afraid I'd be sacrificing what I enjoy most about photography.
I'm not trying to pass my photo off as great photography, just hoping to give an idea of what/how I shoot.
When it comes time to make a decision a road trip will be in order as my local camera shop leans heavily toward Nikon and Canon which leaves me, at this point, relying on input anyone may offer. I'd appreciate your thoughts.
Thank you.
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Just a simple candid street style snap taken at Canterbury Kent UK of a gentleman with his dog sitting in the park next to a statue of a guy called Dave Lee a well known and loved performer in the Kent area who sadly passed away not so very long ago.
X-T2, 55-200mm Lens, 1/110th @ F5.6, ISO-200, Handheld.
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Thank you for looking.,
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My Tamrac Half Moon 707 is on its last days. Any recommendations on a waist pack for a Fujifilm X-T2 and three or four prime lenses?
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This gets a lot of use. Do you know what it is used for?
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My brother brought these home a few days ago. They looked so great I had to shoot them. More following on the set up in the reply.
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Start with a small ranch style home on a good size piece of property in the Arizona desert, add one Country & Western band, sprinkle in a group of motorcycle enthusiasts who consider themselves bikers, stir in a bit of outdoor barbeque, stock the bar with various adult type beverages then invite about 80 of your best friends for an outdoor evening barbeque party. While your guests are arriving slip into a dress, which is not what you can usually be found in, then go outside among your guests and to their surprise announce that you and your best friend are going to be married there and then. TaDa!! That is what Jacque and Mike did this past Saturday night. When their photographer cancelled on them at the last minute, while I do not do weddings, especially one at night out of doors, I agreed to photograph them prior to the wedding and these photos, which include the elements that represent their interests, were done the day before their event.
All images shot with Fuji X-T1, 35mm f1.4 lens, various apertures, shutter speeds and as the ambient light diminished different ISO settings.
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Hello, I am the new one who has a new DSLR camera just now.
I wanna know that if it is necessary that take a photo or video with camera stabilizer?
If necessary, Which camera stabilizer is best?
I have been seen some evaluation about the gimbal stabilizer, I have noticed that a product named "Crane 2", looks like this is the latest stabilizer products? Does anyone else know?
Thanks for all your advice…
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I headed out after work to practice a few focus stacks. Unfortunately the duck orchids don't require much of a breeze to get them moving.
Anyway, here are a few images taken before the mosquitos nearly carried me off.
#1 10 image focus stack Large duck-orchid
#2 10 image focus stack
#3 Blue-star sun-orchid
Thanks for looking…
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You can almost set your watch by it.
Screen Shot 2017-10-17 at 5.46.51 pm.png
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Just loving the fall colours here in British Columbia and discovering the magnificent 55-200
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Thanks for looking,
50mm f/4 1/200sec ISO200 0e.v.
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These are my first paid photo shoots in my bedroom with AD200 and couple Yongnuo 560 IV in slave mode.
My first client is my wife who needed her picture for her business card as a realtor.
She paid me $1 for these. I need thousands of these sessions to pay for my camera lol
She liked the last one most but unfortunately focus is off on this.
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Prague is an amazing city to photograph, with an extraordinarily beautiful historic centre. The Federal Assembly Building is rather different architecturally, with a complex history of changes and additions, and an equally complex symbolism reflecting the different phases of Czech political history. See Please login or register to view links for a summary.
I find my X100 (original model) somewhat temperamental and finickity, but when it (and I) get it right, it captures a sense of light and colour which I find irresistible:
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I was intending to post a B&W version of this, Picked the wrong file. I'll post the other one later.
Rust in Peace.jpg
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Lat week I came across this floor mural in the atrium of the renovated Woodward's Building in the Downtown East Side of Vancouver.
The artists Sandy and Steve Pell created this for World Sight Day.
Every Oct, World Sight Day raises awareness and support for blindness and vision impairment.
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The English XE3 manual (page 137) says, "Choose the number of focus point avaiable for focus-point selection in manual focus mode or when SINGLE POINT is selected for AF MODE." The options are 91 or 325 focus points.
So when it it better to use 91 or 325 focus points?
I never thought about available focus points for manual focus mode. Does 91 or 325 points help the AF-L more? Does the number of available focus points help or hinder peak focusing?
Does the number of focus points act differently with AF-S or AF-C?…
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I recently bought a Fuji X-T20, and a K&F Concept M42-to-FX adapter I ordered has just arrived. Unfortunately, when I tried it out, focus peaking was not working, no matter how I set the MCS switch on the front of the camera. (I've tried with two different M42 lenses, FWIW, although I don't see how that would make any difference.) Focus peaking works fine with the two Fuji lenses I own. I've seen other references to focus peaking with adapted lenses, so I'd assumed it would "just work" when the feature is enabled in the camera's menus, which it definitely is. Is there some trick I'm missing? Thanks for any information!…
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A few pictures taken with an X-T2 and off-camera Godox flashes in Easter Island, Chile.
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Posting this here in case anyone has come across the same scenario and can offer some help. As it is, i’ve scoured the net and found no fixes.
I updated my Flashpoint and Godox X1-TF (Fuji versions) to ver 03 to enable HSS using for my AD200s (also updated those) with the G2 firmware exe file using a windows emulator on my iMac. So everything is good with the AD200s. Except I notice I can’t fire my AD600BMs anymore.
I uninstall the G2 exe file to install the G1 then proceed to update my AD600BM. I thought this would fix the issue but no. I can change the light settings remotely, and the test button fires off the flash but pressing the shutter button with the X1T-F fails to fire either of my AD600BM units (even tried both the Flashpoint and Godox versions with sadly the same result).
So now am stuck. If there was a way to revert to the old firmware just so I can use them again, never mind the HSS, I would. Am also contemplating buying a Nikon trigger and not updating the firmware, maybe that would work.
Godox has never given me this much problem before. It is sad that this should start now…
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X-T2 and 10-24...
Twilight taken this past Saturday evening. One ambient exposure and (3) flash exposures for the interior.
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Sunrise of the front of the house above. Shot this Saturday morning as the sun was about to rise.
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Different angle. We had not planned to shoot this, but when I arrived I could not help but try and capture the frontal view of the sun rising with city lights.
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Backyard of a home I shot a few weeks back at sunset...
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Kitchen of the same home shot at sunrise...
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Just a simple tourist type snap taken at Brighton Sussex UK of part of the Brighton i360 tourist attraction.
X-T2, 55-200mm Lens, 1/280th @ F8, ISO-200 Handheld.
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Thank you for looking.,