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Pretty new X-E1 owner here -
The options for high ISO are greyed out. I can't seem to figure out how to enable them. Does anyone know? I'm using manual lenses if it matters. Thanks!
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The clouds have finally come back and I was able to get some photos of a plant in a neighbors front yard.
I love succulents!
Suculents Horizonal 2017.jpg
Succuents Beaverton 2017.jpg
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Photographed at a Vintage Motorcycle show here in town today.
Fuji X-E1, ISO 200, 1/105 ss, aperture priority, +0.7 Exposure compensation,18-55mm lens f6.4 at 55mm Bright harsh late morning sunlight.
Go AZ Motorcycle Show 105-Edit.jpg
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We arrived just after 18:00 pm while driving to our B&B for the night. This solemn old church on our way beckoned to be admired and we walked around the outside, looking at the calvary before stepping through the open door. We noticed a man with a big bunch of keys switching off lights but he very kindly allowed us to spend some time inside while explaining some of the history. We did not want to overstay our welcome and he apologised for all the lights already being switched off - under the circumstances I am very glad I managed to capture this image at such high iso with - I think - still lots of detail.
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I'm a long-term Fuji X user since the original X100. I've not used my X-Pro2 since I got a Leica M10 in March though. I'm considering the Hasselblad now for its small size, as it turned out to be a key problem with the Pentax K1 I have as well. Everything about X1D seems small enough, including the lenses, and with the new field kit coming out it starts to look attractive enough to try.
I'm not a flash photographer, outside of the excellent X100 series augmenting day-light flash, and don't yet see the advantages of the leaf shutter lenses. What bothers me, however, is their seeming slowness -- f3.2 or worse! The sample shots in low light show ISO 6400 and up all the way to 25600. Granted it seems fine. Moreover, 45mm is reported to have vignetting unbecoming a $3K+ lens.
With Fuji XF, I'm used to the super-fast, superbly made lenses. What do folks think about the lens situation comparing X1D and GFX systems?…
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I usually keep everything in colour but tried this in b/w from RAW file because I thought regular patterns like those in the sand might come out more strongly in b/w than in colour as the ridges can be made more prominent.
Porthladd d a g.jpg
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Yesterday I was at a car night race. The lighting wasn't great so often I had to shoot at ISO 12800, F5.6 and 1/125 with the 100-400. Good for practicing. Under these conditions the X-T2 focus system struggled a lot. It was really hard to track the cars.
Then I switched to the 50-140. At F2.8 the focus worked extremely well. Tracking was really easy all of a sudden.
Seems we need a 100-400/2.8 for sports :)
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I have an old Canon 4 that needs shutter timer cleaning, new shutter curtains, and a good cla. Where can I send it for this work? It's been at one place for 6 months, and every time I ask about it, I get asked if I want to expedite the service (big additional fee), after this much time, all the expedited stuff that jumped ahead of me should make it free.
I also have a Canon 7 that should get new shutter curtains due to small dents, but not right now…
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Again this year, and for the past 10 years, I’ll be shouting an annual golf tournament.
I wait at hole 5 and shot two teams as they stand behind a sign advertising the event.
The shots are full body, 6 to 8 golfers per shot.
I’ve used my Touit 32 and Fuji 18-55. (X-T2)
But this year I want to try my Fuji 23mm or 10-24.
I’m thinking the 23 might be a good over the 10-24 so I won’t be tempted vary the focal length. Which I’m prone to do with zooms.
Suggestions? And thanks…
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Yesterday I fought traffic to attend the Adirondack Hot Air Balloon Festival. It was a good day for ballooning as it was clear and a 1 MPH breeze. More photos following in the reply.
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Does anyone here have any experience with this lens? I've been able to find a few things Googling but opinions seems to vary between "it's great" to "don't waste your time" so I was wondering if anyone here had anything a bit more concrete than that. I'm picking up a really nice MC 24/2.8 and have the opportunity to possibly grab an equally nice 35/1.8 as well but I have zero knowledge about it…
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Hi. My new x t20 has a screen flickering problem. Occasionally, when I turn on the camera, the LCD display begins flickering consistently between black and whatever the camera is pointing at for 5 to 10 seconds. Do I just wait until the next firmware update to eliminate this problem or call Fujifilm service center? I uploaded this issue on youtube.
Thank you…
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I have 3 month old 23mm f1.4 sent out to Fuji for repair (warranty covered - fuji service is great!) due to small fungus appearing in the front glass and of course this does NOT affect the IQ since it's tiny but lens being new it's bothered me and it'll only get more as time passes..
Is anyone else having issues with dust and mold with all the non-WR lenses? Actually, my old film camera lenses (non WR) are all fine since 1980s without proper storage compared to my 23mm f1.4. This 23mm f1.4, I took care of it with fresh silica gels (frequently changing - color indicator) in camera bags when out and dry cabinet during storage with another hygrometer to monitor along with the digital one from the cabinet which is constantly displaying 40-45% humidity. I have used the lens out 2-3 time a week all throughout July - August and I know summer isn't crisp gets humid but to keep the lens inside during most of summer is ridiculous and seasonally take it out only during autumn..spring? No other lenses owned have this issue including fuji WR nor previous owned non WR lenses from other brands...(I did not let the lens get wet nor shot during the rain.).
Anyone else having the issue with Non-WR or even WR? I did google "Fuji Fungus" and there is a previous post regarding 18-55 and 35mm with mold along with dust issues...Are these lens more vulnerable to all these micro particles compared to other lenses?
Please share your experiences and frequent usage, travel, and severity if encountered…
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Hi all, is there a magazine available dedicated to Fuji X?…
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This is Stow Maries in Essex, UK the only surviving WW1 aerodrome.
It was built along with two other bases to protect London and surrounding areas from Zeppelin bombing attacks.
They had little success until an incendiary round for the .303in Lewis gun was invented. This helped immensely and on one raid only two out of ten enemy airships made it home.
The restoration is a work in progress and more funds are needed to restore the remaining buildings.
Very interesting day out, the volunteers are very helpful, airmens mess tea and cakes are excellent, well worth a visit.
Main buildings including engine and body workshops, dope shed and blacksmiths
Stow 1.jpg
Officers billets and mess hall still needing restoration, but thankfully still standing
Stow 2.jpg
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Cross-posted from r/fujix, but didn't get much response, so...
I initially wanted to choose one or the other as my every day carry, but somehow ended up with both! Long story short, I found excellent used deals on both and decided I would sell one later.
I just came from a weekend in Vegas, taking both cameras with me, and I enjoyed using both cameras. I really can't decide which to keep, and I feel like the focal lengths are quite close together to justify keeping both. The f2 and built-in ND of the X100T is nice while the tilt screen and UWA option (I also own the WCL-X70) of the X70 is also nice. Both are small enough for my needs.
Anyone own both and use both equally? Or did you end up favouring one or the other? (specify which, and why)
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Another picture from my small series of photos. I`am trying to avoid taking pictures of homeless people as much as i can, because it doesn`t feel right. This was an exception due to the fact that his face is hidden and lighting was superb.
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Fuji X-E2. Carl Zeiss Biogon 1:4.5 f=21mm Contax RF
Processed in PS with HDR. Taken at f8.
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More to come for sure, just acquired this item…
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I keep hearing how this lens isn't a good performer for astro because of the coma artifact. I own the fujinon 16mm and also the samyang/rokinon 14mm f2.0. The samyang is a great lens for the price, but when I compare the results I get with it vs. the fujinon 16mm, the fujinon just renders much more pleasingly to me. I also really appreciate the extra light, and the fujinon's sharpness wide open is fantastic.
So that coma artifact --- in the image below, I scrutinized the corners and performed spot removal on like maybe 10 stars, which took about 3 minutes. I know that this bothers some people, but to me this is a non-issue.
I made the image below using the fujinon 16mm at f/1.4, 15 secs, iso 200 (yes that's right, 200); 7 image vertical pano.
Please see this link for higher quality:
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There’s no doubt the Fujifilm X-T20 is an incredible camera, both in terms of use and output. It’s small, lightweight, powerful and versatile. So too is Fujifilm’s 50mm f2 lens. Compared with many other 50mm lenses I own/have owned/have shot with, this is one of the best autofocus 50mm IMO. The best I’ve used is the 58mm Voigtlander f1.4, but thats a manual focus lens requiring an adapter (Nikon mount).
I decided to take a few very quick portraits with the Fujifilm X-T20, Fujifilm 50mm f2 and a LightPix Labs flash (manual only no TTL so all the settings must be set physically). The flash was bounced off the ceiling and the shutter speed was 1/125, aperture was f2.8 and ISO 1000. I use auto-ISO on Fujifilm cameras as you can program the minimum and maximum across 3 custom settings. Flash setting were at 1/16. Face tracking was on with auto eye detect, and was very quick and accurate.
Below is a color + B&W shot. Both were shot RAW in LR so no simulations were used, except for the B&W which was ACROS + G filter. Hope you enjoy :)
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Young people study their phones, while the seniors enjoy an old fashioned chat.
X-E1 with XF27mm 2.8. Halifax, Nova Scotia, waterfront boardwalk.
Boardwalk DSCF4406.jpg
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Earlier this week, I was searching for something in my shed. I didn't find what I was looking for there, but inside a plastic bag, inside a box of junk and long-forgotten stuff, I found a big stack of old Polaroid SX-70 photos that I took in the late 1970s and early '80s.
I haven't seen these for decades, and I had pretty much forgotten about them.
Quite a few of the photos were screen shots of movies, news, and TV shows, where I directly photographed the screen of my old 1970s TV set.
One of my reasons for this post is to sing the praises of the cellphone app I used to scan them. It's called PhotoScan. You just hand-hold your phone, and it combines multiple shots of your photo to produce a glare-free image. It uses edge detection and perspective correction. Very quick and easy.
I then did some tweaking in Lightroom. Some spot removal, contrast and clarity, and I tried to unify the blue tint across them all. They just didn't look right in pure black and white.
They're not exactly hi fidelity (to use a 1970s term), but I like them.
Marty Feldman.jpg
Marty Feldman in Young Frankenstein
Gene Wilder.jpg
Gene Wilder in Young Frankenstein
Ingrid Bergman.jpg
Ingrid Bergman in Casablanca
Bette Davis.jpg
Bette Davis in The Letter…
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I currenlt use Adobe Lightroom 5 with my X-T20. Because it’s an older LR version the raw converter does not support the X-T20 RAFs. I purchased LR outright and not via a cloud subscription so I can’t upgrade without paying for an upgrade.
Currently I convert my RAF files into DNG via the free Adobe DNG converter and then I can open and process in lightroom.
However, I wonder if there is an impact on file quality doing this? Is there any quality benefit to me upgrading LR to support the X-T20 RAFs natively and avoid the DNG conversion step? (Understand it obviously would save me a post process step).
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Some photos taken today in Torun on the Copernicon Festival. Xe-2 & XF23F1.4. The last one is not from Fuji.
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Nikkor 35/2.0 adapted to a X-Pro2…
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I must have selected the wrong option . I get the menu only in the EVF and Not rear LCD < Please advise
Thank you…
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Leaving Manasquan Inlet in NJ.
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Ouwehands Dierenpark Netherlands
X-T2 | XF100-400 | XF1.4x TC
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Playing with Silver FX on some old shots. Too hot to go outside!
B & W Daf.jpg
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Hi folks I need some help if possible, as I now have the following. X-T2 + XF 18-55mm X-T20 + XC 16-50mm and XC 50-230mm. I want to get just one more lens then I will not get any more, the only lens I want now is a Prime, so out of the two above lenses which one would you get. When I am out and about I like to try and take photos of the singers and buskers plus nearly every other thing…
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I have a couple of questions regarding an add-on grip for the X-T20-
Are all grips made for the X-T10 compatible with the X-T20?
Can anyone recommend a cheaper alternative to the Fuji MHG-XT10?
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I can buy an used but excellent condition X100T for +800$.
I am sort of confused what to buy to be honest, had my sights on the new XE3 for 900$ but it will be somewhat bigger than X100 with the XF23 F2 fitted. Only lens making the XE3 about same size as X100 is the XF27mm (I got one) but that lens is not very good at night and close focus is also not very good, adapter ring missing.
I am quite happy with my XP1 that I used recently at the Singapore F1, so getting the XE3 is strictly speaking not needed.
I always wanted a X100, love about everything about them and just take the camera and not worry about lens choices is liberating. Off-course a X100 is ill suited for F1 races but I can always bring my XP1 for those events.
Is +800$ a fair price to pay for a used X100T? I am a casual photographer so I am not willing to shell out 1300 for the F model despite using same battery type as XP1 would be nice.
Is there shutter count for the T models? The seller don't mention anything about it?
Last question, can the T shoot fast if using the 3 film stimulation mode? XP1 is dead slow for that and takes a few sec to clear the buffer
I am based in SEA (Thailand) so finding one for a steal, will 99.9% surely not happen.
Thanks for inputs…
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As above. New cameras, new lenses, and (apparently) bug fixes.
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Storm at Beach.jpg
Storm at the beach. We got 6 inches of rain in 24 hours. X-T2, 16mm…
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Another photographer in the family, taken with X-T2 and kit zoom…
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My search hasn't turned up anything, and I am probably missing something obvious, but....
Just moved from the S to the F. On the S, I used the viewfinder-only setting for shooting (as opposed to LCD only or or eye sensor). However, when I pressed "menu," the menu would come up on the rear screen (which I like).
I do not seem to be able to set this on the F. If I set it to use the viewfinder only, pressing menu will come up only in the viewfinder. Of course, if I use eye-sensor, it will come up on the LCD if the camera is not up to my face, on LCD only will put it there too.
Did Fuji make a change, or am I missing a setting somewhere?…
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