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Hello Fujifilm Japan,
I hope you are listening. I had the privilege of shooting for STYLE magazine last week and used my X-T2's and a couple of lenses, the 56mm f/1.2 and 90mm f/2.0. Now, I also have a comprehensive Nikon system with 3 bodies and around a dozen or so very fast lenses.
Although the 90mm is a gorgeously brutally sharp lens and has incredible micro contrast, I would have been absolutely ecstatic had your lens been a f/1.4 i.e. 135mm f/2.0 equivalent lens.
The bokeh is very pleasing but as I shot head to toe, it didn't have that 56mm f/1.2, 35mm f/1.4 and 23 mm f/1.4 magic. To get the kind of bokeh I really want, I must crop in quite closely, (which can be ok). That extra stop would be a major game changer for me.
I also have the 50-140, but my wife used it for the video of the shoot.
So Fuji, make me a 90mm f/1.4 a 135mm f/1.8 and you will have fulfilled my dreams and functional needs. Can't wait to get my hands on the 200mm f/2.0 lens.
Thanks and Keep Up the Great Work!
Ben…
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We were in the garden recently watching a fantastic sunset when my son climbed on the fence for a better view, as I turned round, he was lit by the last rays with the moon behind.
This was straight from the camera but I've taken on board earlier advice. Now I'm taking mostly in RAW and doing a conversion after in Darktable but it's early days, a lot to learn! Advice/ criticism welcome.
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I want to get some of my LTM lenses adapted to M mount to use with the Fuji adapter and wondering about the screw to M shims that are sold. I'm down to 2 brands but there is a large price difference between them:
#1 Raqual Please login or register to view links at $80 each
#2 Metabones Please login or register to view links at $40 each
What I want is to make certain that infinity is correct (assuming the lens is correct), I have some cheap shims and they are not correct (Kipon "Pro") and want to avoid wasting more money. If the Metabones are accurate, I can get two for one and have more than 4 lenses that I'd like to use. The goal is to have these lenses corrected in the camera since the Fuji adapter allows this, not that I have a lot of correction needed on the ones I want to use. Lenses range from CV ColorSkopar 21f4 to Serenar 135f2.8…
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Hi guys, been shooting for the past month with a Fuji X-T2 and coming from a Pentax KS2 (first "serious" camera) it has just been an amazing experience, really LOVE to shoot with this camera. I´m currently debating wether to get an xf 55-200 or xf 18-135 (which would make my 18-55 redundant) as I´m in desperate need of more reach, trying to sort this out in the meantime they become available as both are back-ordered which I´m sure you guys are aware of.
Looking forward to hear from you guys and learn some more!…
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Hi all,
I feel like the face / eye detect AF on my X-E3 is not quite right. At least compared to my recollection of the X-E2 I'd been using for the previous three years.
I'm not seeing the flickering issue some have had (at least as I understand it), but I do seem to have more than I'd expect of false positives for faces and a general lack of critical focus on eyes. The selected eye also seems to jump from one to the other on a half press of the shutter, again something I don't specifically recall on the X-E2…
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The wildfires in Southern California have been devastating, so I do not want to make light of them. However, if there is a silver lining, they do produce some pretty amazing sunsets.
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Would really like to see comparisons of bokeh (60 vs 80 for close up/macro and 80 vs 90 for portrait/short tele). I currently have the 60 and 90 but am considering selling both and going with the 80.
I realize that it might be too soon to ask for comparisons but considering that it might take a while for the supply of the 80 to catch up with demand I thought that I would ask.
Thanks in advance!…
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I am shopping for a flash diffuser and there are a few that look like good candidates to me so far.
Have seen the MagMod, the Gary Fong, and their knock-offs. I am wondering which ones have proved reliable to forum members.
So, what (or which ones) do you Own, Use and Love?…
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I have dueling 28/3.5's at the moment. I think I prefer the Hexanon but the little Olympus has its charms…
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Could not find the flash for the X-T2, so had to use the X-T20 with it`s flash, lens was the XF 18-55mm and taken on manual.
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Views: 130 / Likes: 7 / Replies: 4
I had the opportunity to take a few shots of the area around my house this morning after doing my kids off at school. Lately it's been frosty and I keep seeing all these great photo opportunities but have not made the time to take advantage of them! My wife and I moved our family out of the city last summer so this is our first winter in this area, and it really is a beautiful corner of the world.
Taken in Marion county, Oregon, USA near the city of Jefferson.
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This is a sample of a some images that I created on Halloween night while out trick or treating with my kids. It was the first night out with my new X-T2 after trading in my XE1 that I've been shooting with for a couple of years. What a fantastic camera. If you want to see the full project click the link below. Thanks for looking.
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Views: 42 / Likes: 2 / Replies: 0
Just a simple street style snap taken at Covent Garden London UK of a wheel barrow flower display at the entrance to Apple Market.
X-T2, 18-55mm Lens, 1/150th @ F8, ISO-200, Handheld.
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Thank you for looking.,
George…
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Looks like he's using a wide-screen adapter on his iPhone...
Taken on an X100F at 1/1000 with flash. Processed in C1.
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/edit - since the subject is the guy with the camera and not the skateboarder I chose the Street board instead of sports. Feel free to move…
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Fuji X-T1, ISO 200, 1/280ss, +0.3 exposure compensation, aperture priority, 35mm f1.4 at f2.0, under unusually cloudy skies
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Many folks from the Pacific Northwest know Mt. Baker. It is visible all over the Puget Sound, the San Juan Islands, Canada, etc. If/when we see Baker in December it's always a special day as so many days here in December are cloudy or foggy. We did a snowshoe hike from the Mt. Baker Ski Area to Artist Point near Mt. Baker. We carried quite a bit of water as we decided to have some freeze dried Pad Thai for lunch on the mountain. This bottle has the logo for the store my daughter manages in Bend, OR. While waiting for lunch "to cook" decided to play with the 16mm.
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I find on my X-E1 that the aperture is always at its widest value independent of your setting when in manual focus mode which I suppose is to assist manual focusing due to shortest possible DoF. Although this helps when you need to manually focus, it's not always wanted because you get "shutter lag" since the aperture blades has to close first on half press before the shutter engages on full press.
I'd like to be able to turn this feature off because when using zone/hyperfocal focusing for example, faster time to capture the image is more appreciated because I don't need to manually focus the lens anyway. I think the simplest and easiest option is to to give us an on/off feature. Yup, I know that half-pressing eliminates this issue but we can't always control how we are going to take a shot.
What do you think? Is this a uniform behaviour on all Fuji mirrorless cameras?…
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There is a heck of a lot of info on here about the various systems we are all using and I am pretty much convinced the Godox TT685 is the way to go.
I did a studio shoot the other day with both Fuji and Canon systems and used the lighting system from the studio. One radio trigger was all i needed to switch between the camera to sync the set-up although it appeared the fuji was not syncing fully.
I now want to invest in a small portable, cost effective system that i can use with both systems. Basically my requirement is 2 off camera flashes (which i will uses with or without softbox) and a easy, quick trigger system. From all I have read Godox is the way to and all I will need is the 2 triggers. If i have 2 x TT685F and an X1T-f and c, then I can effectively switch between cameras, using the same light set-up just with the relevant trigger mounted on the right camera. Do i understand this correctly? I assume one trigger (x1t-f) will not be compatible with the Canon, so one must also have the canon version of the trigger.
I also have a Canon 430 ex ii - but it appears this will be all but useless for off-camera and cannot be slaved to the godox trigger.
So this is my rough plan. Am I missing anything? Does anyone have any better solutions for an adaptable system?…
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We've not had snow but the plunging temperatures have given rise to a widespread hoar frost. It was -7°C here this morning - I couldn't feel my fingers at times.
X-T1 with 16-50 @50mm f5.6 1/500 iso400
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What's the fastest way to do this? I shoot often in manual mode in street with zone/hypefocal focusing with my X-E1 but sometimes I want to quickly change to either aperture (object isolation) or shutter (fast moving subjects/panning shots) priority mode and back to manual. I think the usual PSAM modes found in modern digital cameras is faster in this regard.
For example, if I shoot in manual then want to change to aperture priority and then back to manual, here's how I do it:
On Fujis without PSAM (start on manual mode) :
Aperture priority: Set shutter speed to A, set ISO to Auto, set aperture
Back to manual: Set the desired shutter speed, set the desired ISO
With PSAM (start on manual mode):
Aperture priority: Set the PSAM dial to A, set aperture
Back to manual: set the PSAM dial to M
I could be wrong about the PSAM cameras because I'm new to photography and have very few shooting experiences with them. It seems that it's just how the different cameras operate and I'm the one who should adapt :)
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The area is comprised of just ash, mud, lava, tephra, pumice and all manner of stuff heaved randomly out of the earth then weathered by wind, rain, snow, ice and sun in a very short time frame - insofar far as the planet is concerned.
It is so extraordinary that I wonder if it was actually real...
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X-T2, XF23/1.4, 1/250th sec at f/10, ISO 640…
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I'm looking to trade my xpro2 for an x100f! I don't really shoot professionally and need something more compact for my work. Body is in 8/10 condition and lens is 9/10. Latest firmware and Still have boxes and paperwork for the body! However, not the lens. Will shoot ya more pictures upon request!…
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Hey all, long time reader, first time poster.
I've been pondering and wouldn't mind an outside perspective to help me decide.
(FYI I use an XP2, as I love the look of it, makes me want to use it, the "studio" is a couple of Godox AD200 (plus modifiers) while I practice, then maybe upgrade to something bigger)
I have recently started with studio (home) portraits/products. I find the 35 1.4 not long enough and the long end of the 18-55 just does not cut it. I need some length, both for studio and out and about (kids, travel etc).
I've been waiting for but Im really disappointed with the size and price of the 80mm macro (around $1800 in Aus). I had a Tokina 100 2.8 macro on my d800 which was great, and small, and AF and cheap, which I sold, with my D800.
So Im at a cross road, should I get the 56 1.2, I think it would do well in the "studio" and its not big enough to be annoying on my travels. Id expect it to be be as good or better at focusing on moving objects than the 35 1.4.
Then there is the 90mm, which does not have OIS, plus its probably cutting it close in the "studio".
Then there is a used D7200 plus another Tokina for around 1200-1300$ and I can still use my left over Sigma 120-300 2.8 and Nikon 50 1.8. However this brings me back around to why I sold the D800. Carrying 2 cameras around.
Would anyone be able to comment with regard to the 56 as a general lens, or the fuji xp2 vs D7200 in studio situation?
Thanks…
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in Vancouver, BC
Fujifilm x-pro2 Acros with red filter
23mm f/4.0 ISO 10000 1/30 sec
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Hello folks, this Sunday was a great day here in south of Norway. The sun was giving it's best December light, and we made the right decision when we picked the target for the trip today. Hope you enjoy this picture.
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I have been thinking of getting a better tripod * and some filters (grads and neutral density). When I looked on YouTube for reviews on the filters, I found many suggestions that it’s better to use Lightroom tools to achieve that functionality. I’ve heard the same thing about OIS etc replacing the need for tripods.
What are y’alls thoughts on that?
* I have an aluminum Sunpaxk that I spent $40 on 10+ years ago…
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Taken a few days ago. A fantastic light with the low sun and the gathering storm to the North.
Is there a forum protocol with regard to file size? Please tell me if I'm posting these too large.
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I am looking into a lens adaptor from Olympus OM mount (35 mm Zuiko) to Fuji X, but I'm confused by the prices I find from several brands. They go from $20 to $225. Are the cheap ones very, very bad quality or are the most expensive ones a rip-off? Anyone has experience with them? Thank you…
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Thinking of buying X-T20. I basically want to use for landscape shots with 16-55 F2.8 lens. I want to use X-T2 for sports or actions.
I have a Metro case for Xt10/20 but never bought the camera. Looking at this lens, which is very big, I am worried that this (or other L plates) may not give enough clearance for fixing on my Tripod or Panorama head. I hate to buy this camera and unable to use with 16-55.
Anyone has use either XT10/X-T20 with 15-66 on Lplate on tripod please? I like the idea of slightly bigger grip and ArcaSwiss compatible fixing.
Thanks…
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Very pleased with the way this combo performed for me.
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With the promise of high seas, clear skies and sunshine I spent three hours stood in an exposed location in sub zero temperatures to get these two shots.......I'm ever so pleased I did though!
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