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Views: 12 / Likes: 0 / Replies: 2
I got a problem while using X-t2 in my studio. It focuses unintentionaly and acting weird. While shooting with the camera, it autofocuses by itself and locks the focus as if you press the half shutter button and hold it. I turn off and on again and it works fine but randomly happens again. While it is in that weird position for example if you click the menu button it shoots! or any other button... It looks like a firmware issue, I got the latest firmware but could not solved the problem.
Any of you have a problem like this?…
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Hi guys just wanna share a photo I took of Mayon Volcano in Legazpi Philippines. Hailed as the most famous volcano in the Philippines because of it's perfect cone. :)
xt1, 10-24
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Fujifilm X-T2 with 16-55mm 2.8
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Does anyone know of Fujifilm's philosophy of not having sales? The last lens sale was dec of 2016. I have been told they were supposed to have one in march, april and may yet it never happened. It's sad Fujifilm is not offering any deals. I noticed they increased some of their lenses by 25-30% since this past winter. I would not want to buy a lens only to have it go on sale $300 less. Come on Fujifilm listen to your customers…
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She's Got Legs (With no apologies to ZZ Top)
Fuji X-T1, ISO 200, 35mm f 1.4 lens
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I fly gliders since I am 18. I started to fly motorgliders and ultralight aircraft because I wanted to have a view at the clouds from the top and to fly when there are no thermals. I love to take photos when airborne.
This is a mix of older photos. Taken with my X100, X-E2 and X-Pro2. Different lenses.
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CV 40mm f1.4 is one of my favorite adapted lens on Fuji-X bodies. It's small, fun to use and make interesting shots.
Yesterday I've received "MINT" sample from eBay US seller claiming the lens is used only once.
The lens has tons of hidden issues, and I'd like to expose them so you'll not buy (or just return) similar lens.
Please feel free to ask questions or add suggestions. My case with that seller is not over yet, he still insists the lens is perfect and I'm wrong : )
Ok, so discovered issues list:
1. Checking the focus ring. It should rotate smooth on all Voigtlanders. I was surprised there are no grease and ring rotates sometimes stiff sometimes very loose.
2. It looked suspicious, so I inspected rear side. There are shiny black painted areas on disassembly threads.
Make sure you inspect it on your Voigtlander/Zeiss/Leica, etc. lens
3. Typical inspection with strong flash light under different angles unveils more details.
You can see a lot of dust.
4. And now we came to the most scary part : ) I found someone's fingerprint under the glass.
After noticing that I also checked the box - styrofoam inserts was from another lens. No manual. Plastic bag is "100y old". Also white paint on lens became yellowish - one more indicator of the lens age.
Optically lens works excellent, but all that issues make overall experience very bad.
Hope this short review helps someone purchasing better options…
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X-T2 and XF55-200mm a few weeks ago at a local State Park.
Typical weather at this location would see this waterfall dripping at best this time of year.
Thanks for looking,
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X-Pro2, CZJ Flektogon 35mm f2.4, lensturbo ii
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Shot today in a small village close to where I live ("Gees")
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This is really quirky and very clever considering the project was shot with film.
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For many years using Nikons I have often used flash simply as a fill, to lighten shadows. Important with film but less so with digital, nonetheless I would like to do it occasionally.
With Nikon I used 'matrix balanced fill flash' usually adjusted down a bit from the default. With the film cameras I used a separate flash usually, on a bracket, linked to the hotshoe with a cable. The 'pro' cameras don't have a built in flash. With the digital camera I have (D7000) there has been a built in flash which has worked similarly, although I would prefer the flash further from the lens.
Is there any equivalent way of doing such fill flash with Fujis? I have an Xpro2 so it would need to be a separate flash anyway.
Hope someone can help!
Views: 174 / Likes: 5 / Replies: 10
Not a great reviewer, just tryed this lens once (for real), shotting the milky way, and I am very pleased. Lots of reviews on youtube made me buy this precious.
It is sharp and very compact on my x-e2s.
Edited on oneplus 3T, Snapseed app:
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Edison digital does not repair the MHG-X-T2 grip. after 10 months of use mine is missing the two screws that hold the hand grip onto the base. Does anyone have resources where I can get these screws?…
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I'm still in the process of setting up my X-T2 and had a question that so far I haven't found a solution for. As with my nikon gear, there are a few buttons that you can set up as custom function buttons. One thing I really like about my nikon setup is that they allow you to set a metering method in those custom buttons. By that I mean that I usually use matrix metering, but I have a button set up to immediately swap to spot metering. I can toggle back and forth just by pressing that fn button and releasing it. So far metering does not seem to be one of the choices for setting up the fn buttons on the X-T2. Is there a way to set up spot metering as a fn button anywhere? Or am I stuck with having to use the little toggle switch to move back and forth--which isn't terrible, but takes more time than just pressing a button..and makes it a lot more likely that I end up with a different metering method than I would like. Thanks…
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Starting a photo album of my holiday in Sardinia Aug 2017
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Have been having fun today trying the Raynox on the XC16-50mm as it is very breezy here today, so a couple of fly shots.
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Hi all,
Looking to get feedback from members as to what worked for them and what did not during the eclipse. Here is my experience:
What worked:
- Automating the process. I had two Fuji cameras + Iphone7. X-T2 doing time lapse with 8mm fish eye (20 seconds), XT1 doing time lapse (10 seconds) on a telescope with tracking mount and Iphone filming the event. This allowed me to sit back and enjoy the event without messing with the electronics.
What could have been better:
- Finding a sharp focus was difficult. The telescope focuser slipped a bit during the time lapse so focus could have been better.
- Time lapse every second would have been ideal as I missed some key moments during totality with both cameras. Not sure why 20/10 seconds sounded like a good idea at the time.
What failed:
- Having to endure a 67 mile traffic jam with no sleep for 36 hours. Next time I'm staying close to the event for a few days.
Overall it was a great experience and quite pleased with the results despite the lack of experience with such event and not doing any kind of dry run before hand. Hope to read what worked well for others with the full understanding some folks wanted to photograph the event, not so much the moment.
TotalEclipse2017 DSCF8104-88104-288104-2288104.jpg
TotalEclipse2017 DSCF8138-258138-7258138-77258138.jpg
TotalEclipse2017 DSCF8153-388153-8388153-88388153.jpg
TotalTimelapse_Eclipse2017 DSCF2017-512017-5512017-55512017.jpg
TotalEclipse2017 DSCF8082-48082-148082-1148082.jpg
Views: 99 / Likes: 4 / Replies: 1
Hello folks, I'm currently on vacation in Spain and I got a great deal on a X70 in Gibraltar, so I bought it on impulse. I was looking for a deal on a X100T or F, but at 45% off normal retail price in Norway, I couldn't resist it.
But what a pleasant surprise this small camera is for traveling. I think my X-T20 is small enough, but this is perfect to take everywhere. Photos look great too, and the only thing to worry about, is battery life (and the fact that it goes from full to empty really fast)
Hope that you enjoy the photos that I share with you. All taken handheld.
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For anyone in or around the city the Doors Open week is 11th to 17th September. It's a great way to see the insides of buildings normally closed to the public. There are also walks, talks and tours, including photography specific tours. It's all free.
Here's the programme link.
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Hi guys.
As former Nikon owner (D300, D700 and D800). I thought I could buy a smaller "pocket" cam and still be satisfied with less quality and performance. I got a almost new "Leica" dlux 109 very cheap. I never got setisfied.. every tweak in controls are reset when power off, simple changing how to focus is reset, aparture priority and other manual controls are hard to reach.. (what I could expect for a aotumatic cam)
So now I'm ready to shift it out and go for a fujifilm.
If I was willing to pay I think I'll go for a X-T2. It's aparently not dropped enough in price yet.
So my thought went on the X-T20. Then again maybe should go for the older X-T1, knowing it has some years on the back. But might meet my manual control bettter.?
I primary used my nikons for family, vacation and street fotography and primary with fixed lenses such as wide angle and 50mm on FF. I like shooting lowlight :)
So guys I ain't pixel hunting or need of very latest technology (okay I'm but cannot effort it) but really looking for a good performing cam :)
Hit me :)
Views: 231 / Likes: 1 / Replies: 11
Hello! Just did the switch from micro four thirds. I currently have a X-Pro2 and the 35mm f2 WR. Looking to add the 50mm f2 to that soon.
I am actually pretty new to photography in general. Bought the Olympus EM10ii six months or so ago. Shortly after I switched to the PenF. Shot with that for quite a while and really loved that camera. But as I grew and learned more about photography I noticed the camera (and the system in general) didn't adhere to what my style or what I shoot with. Anyone else do the swap from m43?…
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Hi guys
I haven't previously updated the firmware on my X-T10 (currently on 1.00), so thought I should try to bring it up to date.
Fuji's instructions for the X-T10 v1.21 say (in Please login to view links) " It is necessary to upgrade the firmware of lenses above at the same time."
Yet, in Please login to view links, it says "The cameras below have the function to upgrade the firmware of accessories." - with a list that does NOT include the X-T10, implying that my camera cannot update the FW of its lenses.
So, how do I update my camera FW? Do I, or must I, also update the lenses' FW as well, and, if so, how?
Views: 203 / Likes: 15 / Replies: 9
7 Dark Animal Portrait
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So I bought one of the new metal bayonet style hoods for the Fujicron's (23mm f/2 and 35mm f/2) just because I wanted to see how it would look, vain I know. I'm quite happy with the fit and finish. It snaps onto the bayonet fitting snugly and seems very well built. It does block the optical viewfinder of my X-Pro2 a bit, but some handy dremel work takes care of some of that. I'm sure the hood doesn't do much, and the cutout is a bit superficial, but I quite like the aesthetic of it with my X-Pro2.
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I just saw this news item on DPR.
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Now how cool could that be?…
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X-T2, 23mm f/1.4
The Mission District in San Francisco is full of colorful and often political murals. Here are a few examples.
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Left this one in colour. Raw processed in LR, all default setting apart from border and small vignette. This IMO demonstrates just how good at 3200 ISO the X100T is.
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I bought a second hand (not used) Raynox 250 and tried it out on my Fuji 50-230 at 160mm. The 250 is an 8 diopter adapter made up of 3 elements I believe.
This is the full image un-cropped. The stamen end points are approx 1mm in real life
stamen 1.jpg
Here's a crop of the upper stamen
stamen 1 crop.jpg
Views: 164 / Likes: 4 / Replies: 5
I've been a nikon shooter forever, and have a pretty complete kit of nikon gear out to 500mm. A few bodies, lots of lenses. I recently purchased a big fuji kit from a colleague who wasn't using it, so I also now have an X-T2, 16-55, 100-400 and 16mm 1.4. I am looking for a 10-24 to complete the kit, had a bunch of other primes that I have sold to fund the rest. We have used a nikon v2 for a few years and like the size/weight for when I don't want to bring my 'big boy' gear (we do a lot of hiking/mtn biking where weight matters a lot), but it really isn't very good. The fuji gear is far superior in just about every way.
Anyway, so far I've been pretty impressed with all the gear. Very well built, obviously lighter and smaller than my dslr gear, and the images I've taken have been beautiful. AF system imo isn't up to nikon performance (not unexpected) but it seems pretty good, and high iso performance seems a bit behind as well...But, I really like using the gear so far and am very pleased overall.
I could use some help especially with AF settings for wildlife. I briefly tried using tracking on every day subjects and quickly switched to single point af which works fine for most things. What do people use for wildlife settings and/or sports?
Any other tips on the X-T2 in particular would be appreciated. Thanks!
I've attached a couple of my initial test shots with X-T2 and 100-400....just around the yard.
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I have a new laptop and a new Seagate 2TB external HD to backup onto. What's the best way to backup data? Windows 10 has an automatic backup you can set. I've started that now but am confused as to how it actually works. I have over 70gb of just photos and it shows the backup as being something like 1.5gb even though it lists the folder my images are stored in as included in the backup. Could this be correct?
Am I better of just having LR make a second copy on import, or backing up manually? Any other thoughts?
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Calibrating eclipse glasses... and requisite totality.
Thanks for looking
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I was looking for an L bracket( with specific need for a vertical use ) and came up with the usual suspects of Kirk and RRS....but they are expensive.
My concern was the ability to use a remote control into the socket in Vertical use but I have been really happy to receive my 3 legged thing universal bracket today and as the image shows, it works a like a dream.
This picture also has the Fuji grip on as well and will also work with the battery grip on as well..
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Sorry for another lens combination query, but my wife and I have an upcoming trip to southern Utah at the end of September and want to be prepared as best I can without being over burdened with gear. I've searched the threads on this, but several new products have become available since a lot of them have posted, an more people have obviously been doing trips like this and would be willing to share "what I would do next time" ideas with me.
We will be hiking in Bryce Canyon, the slot canyons in Escalante, Arches and possibly monument valley and some other places not yet determined.
I will definitely be taking my X-T2. Initial thoughts for a second camera would be my X100F, or possibly the XE2s which might make more sense since as it would be more useful as a backup body, as well as maybe not having to change lenses as often.
My current plan is to take the 10-24 and 18-55, but I wonder, . . . . is that too much overlap? Is that enough reach at the long end?
Another I had considered is the 10-24 and 55-200, but will I need that much length for things such as compressing the hoodoos in Bryce? Would 55mm be sufficient for this, or some other option?
Last option is the 10-24 and the 18-135 (additional advantage of being WR), 18-135 on the X-T2 and the 10-24 on the XE2.
Your thoughts and opinions are appreciated…
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The Solar Eclipse of August 21, 2017
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I was out shooting a bicycle last night when I came across several photographers snapping away towards a setting sun at Bristol's Avon Gorge.
I don't think this is anything particularly special and I've got a few things to 'shop from the foreground but I love the way the boat is so isolated.
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After taking pictures this afternoon I popped out the SD card to upload the photos to my computer. When I went to install the SD card, it wouldn't go in all the way. About 1/4 inch is sticking out.

This photo is looking down into the SD card slot on my X-E2. The item in the red oval is what I think is blocking the SD card. Has anyone else had this problem? Is there a DIY solution or is it time to send the camera back to Fuji? Any idea of the cost to repair? The camera is not under warranty anymore…
Views: 136 / Likes: 7 / Replies: 3
August 21, 2017
1:46 pm Central Daylight Time
Chicago, Illinois
United States of America
41.8781° N / 87.6298° W
Fuji X-Pro1 digital mirrorless camera body with Nikon adapter
Nikon 1000mm f/11 mirror lens mounted on the X-Pro1 body (the angle-of-view is equivalent to 1500mm lens on a 35mm film camera)
ISO 100
f/11 aperture
2-stop neutral density filter
1/4000 second shutter speed
2-second time delayed shutter
Sokkia tripod (wooden)
Wimberley gimbal tripod head
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