The modern Computar 25mm F1.3 (C-mount for ~50$). The lens is made for 1-inch sensors so there is some vignetting, but you could crop it to 4:3 ratio to eliminate most of it.
F1.3 Fuji X-M1
Computar 25mm F1.3 at Fuji X-M1 by Mar Yung, auf Flickr
Computar 25mm F1.3 at Fuji X-M1 by Mar Yung, auf Flickr
If you unscrew the lens slightly you can simulate macro tubes and focus in a bit closer.
Computar 25mm F1.3 at Fuji X-M1 by Mar Yung, auf Flickr
Is it possible to limit the number of images being displayed on a thread's initial post?
I've seen a surge in posters putting several images on the first post causing the scrolling of the What's new page to slow down.
Can it be limited to one or two at the most? The rest could be put in following posts. At least then we have a choice to view the images.
EXIF in the frame! ( + MCEX11 and Raynox DCR530 +3)
Just wondering if that hood is much better than the standard hood. It seems pretty pricey for a hood...
hi i am planning to buy a wide lens just for landscape. which one do u suggest?
Just bought the Tokina 100 mm lens for nikon. Got an adapter to fit to my X-T2. Put it on, focused, focus peaking worked, but could not depress the shutter button? What am I doing wrong with this???
i apologise if this is due to me being obtuse, and I have RTFM!
I was using the EVF to review shots, and all was initially fine. My wife took a couple of photos with it, then handed it back to me. When I tried to review her shots in the EVF, the illumination was way down, so the shots were barely visible. I'm not sure if it's a problem or if she accidentally changed a setting, but I cannot see what she could have done to do so. I will do a reset, but, if it is due to a changed setting, I'd like to know for future reference. If not, I will have to contact Fuji.
Thanks for any suggestions.
Living in Germany, I can't find it in stock anywhere. When I was in the UK a month ago I couldn't find it anywhere in stock in London. Where is it?
Just curious if anyone else got this email sent from Fujifilm.
The body of this email sounds rather spammy so would like to check and make sure.
Thank you for being one of the first 100 people to register your purchase of a FUJIFILM X100F camera.
As one of the first to register, we would like to send you a small token of our appreciation. Please complete this form within the next 5 business days to enable us to send your gift."
If this is legit, then wow! How nice of them! =)
During my search for 35mm lens I stumbled on this little (toy) lens. Reviews and samples I saw probably going 60-40 or 70-30 on being good vs bad on this one. Bad build (the markers don't line up at upright position seen from above), clickless aperture, vignetting, soft, easily flared despite the hood. Some of the reviews and samples mentioned their didn't have vignetting problem though.
But, anyway, I guess I'm too gullible and got suckered anyway despite the odds are against me. The low price probably the main thing that got me easier to decide to get one anyway.
During one of my bike route to the gym, I happened to have found a new route, and while I'm on it I happened to see a small road that led to a small housing area that looks forsaken. All over the walls of the houses there was a red character painted (my initial assumption was the Chinese character for condemned buildings). It was a bit eery since I didn't see anybody, and despite I had a camera on my backpack, after a quick look around I left the area. I did make a note in my mind that I would like to come back again to take some photos at later time.
Today the time came. I took the Fujian 35mm f1.7 for a test drive for this purpose.
Actually, when the lens came, I was a bit disappointed. Mine vignettes quite a bit at the widest aperture. The clickless aperture isn't too appealing since the markers don't line up right above (can't see by looking down on the lens from above like any other lens). Also, the aperture blades actually become fully closed on the other end, total blackness. Looks quite soft, and a bit hazy on some samples taken inside the apartment.
So, I'm both excited to finally take it out, but also doesn't have high hope for it.
When I get there I was surprised to find quite many people there today, mostly elder ladies sitting around and talking. I was on a rented bike the whole time while taking photos, stopping here and there but didn't leave the bike to wander around by foot. I asked my wife when I got home and she said the red Chinese character was a signed that the building/houses are to be repossessed for use by the government. Probably to make way for better housing/apartment complex.
Well, no more babbling, and onto the photos...
Hello Fuji-folks, last week I was on holiday in Czechia, this tour was planned for several months and the mission was to fill up my memory cards with interesting photos.
I'm really found of sunset pictures, and finding great spots isn't that easy - especially when I only was there for five days, and four of the days was booked. So I had two chances to find evening photos. But where to go?
I used Google maps and looked for spots, marked some spots and went to the area. Well the picture under is one of the results. I'm quite pleased. Comments appreciated
Hi - does having the EVF brightness set to 'Auto' affect the histogram readout in any way?
I'm primarily a landscape and cityscape photographer and I'm interested in shooting more panoramas.
I have a 10-24 f/4 which is great, but there are often situations where I find it doesn't work: the subject takes up 1/3 of the frame and I end up with too much sky and/or water.
So I ordered a panoramic head for my tripod and I'm wondering which lens would be the best to get. What I have now:
I'm looking to sell my 18-135 and use the money to fund something else. It's a good lens but I almost never use it.
So far I've been using my 18-55mm to make my panoramas with pretty good results, but I figure if I can stitch, I can use a prime and get higher quality results. The 56mm might be a bit too long and require too many frames?
I'm thinking maybe the 35mm f/1.4.
I guess I could use the 35mm or the 56mm depending on the subject.
I owned a XPro 1 for a while and last year got an Xpro 2 to carry around when the Nikon D810 seemed too much. I had never used the XPro 2 much in the studio deferring to the D810 but the last few months I have been shooting in the studio with the new 50 f2 and using the ACROS film emulation mode. I teach photo and have always told my students that the prferd method was to print 16 bit files. The B & W files I am getting out of the Xpro2 are really terrific and this week I made some 30"x 45" prints, pretty much straight out of the camera with no sharpening but re sized in PS and I have to tell you they really look great, even at that size. The quality of the JPEGS from the Xpro2 are really like no other JPEG I've ever seen out of a Nikon before.
Over the last couple of days I have been posting in the members photo section re my recent attempts to get back to the good old days when grain was grain and digital was what you stuck up to other road users.
Briefly a life time of film usually loaded into a Leica or a Rolleiflex. Then along came digital, so Leica Digilux 2 came and went , nice images shame about the EVF and the design based on a brick, shades of Argos for our American friends. Anyway then the move to DSLR, hated them, loathed them, virtually gave up altogether.
Then Fuji, XT1 came with an 18-55mm zoom and after an hour I was hooked, apart from serious photographers don't use zooms so hey ho that had to go to be replaced by 14/23/35/56mm primes. My nose kept getting in the way so off went the XT1 and enter stage left the Pro 2 with a little X100T to keep it company.
That's the equipment side done, now down to some serious tweaking to get the best straight out of camera JPEGS....did it and now?
Yes the SOOC stuff was technically perfect and........I hated it. Sterile, bland, no soul.
Something had to be done.
Right, first step, ditch all the camera settings, everything set to 0 or it's equivalent. Apart from Auto ISO, let's get some grunge, ISO set to max 6400. Might as well use raw, so shoot raw only, forget Cissie Acros and classic chrome....don't do colour anyway. Now start finding where the grunge sliders are, clarity, dehaze , grain all previously forbidden now become my naughty friends.
Yes, I'm getting there, certainly on the software side. Now hankering after going full circle and getting a replacement for the zoom I stupidly got rid of. But never mind plans to change the X100T for the F have been shelved, don't need Acros nor 24Mp. but the black would have been nice to replace my silver T.
Alright not quite full circle but no way does film enter the equation.
PS Anyone got a nice 18-55mm looking for a good home? Or even a swap colourwise re the X100T, you know silver has more class than black and takes far better pixies.
I just called the USA distributor for Nissin New England Imaging they confirmed that the complete line of firmware upgrades are available. This cover the i40, i60A, Di700 and air1 controller and adds HSS. It's my understanding after upgrade the air1 controller can do TTL & HSS with the i60A and Di700. The firmware upgrade requires that you send the unit in and provide proof of purchase from authorized USA dealer for free upgrade. There is no charge for return shipping.
Repair form http://www.neidllc.com/assets/pdf/nissin_repair_form.pdf
Anyone tried the Lensbaby Velvet 56mm?
Hi Folks - just in case anyone's been wondering where the heck I've been for the last three months... I had a serious heart attack on March 23rd and recovery's been as gradual as might be expected. I owe my life to fantastic emergency treatment from the NHS at Morriston Hospital, Swansea and, after a few stents had been put into a blocked coronary artery, circulation was restored and I'm just about ready to walk far enough on not-too-steep terrain to use lightweight kit like the X70. I'd rather not think at this stage about the weight of the 50-140 or the 16-55, so I'm getting back to the X20 and X70 for family events and short walks. Anyway, it's great to be back in circulation... so this is my first effort from a gentle walk around the water held back at the tidal mill near Carew castle, Pembrokeshire (X70):
Ive had an xt1 with the 23mm f1.4 and it was my favorite combo even though it was somewhat heavy. Anyway i sold it awhile ago but now I'm back trying to rebuild my fuji setup. I currently have an X-T2 with no fuji lens, so I was thinking are the improvements on the X-T2 sensor and all good enough that i can get away with getting the 23mm f2 and still be satisfied or should i just trade my X-T2 and get an xt1 then use the cash for the 23mm f1.4 again? Ideally I want the 23mmf1.4 with my X-T2 but if ever cash becomes tight I just want options..I've seen a lot of comparisons between the 2 lenses but never this combination that i asked about so im posting this. Thanks
background---I will probably only use this 1 lens 90 percent of the time on everyday stuff and trips. actually knowing it will be my main lens is making me lean towards splurging for the 1.4
Today, I discovered that my new Fuji VPB-X-T2 Power Grip mounted to my X-T2 body is
not compatible with the Manfrotto Quick Release System. The locking lever on the plate does
not allow the floor plate to seat into it's receptor with the Power Grip attached. I was curious
if anyone else who uses Manfrotto equipment has had a similar experience and how they have
remedied the problem? I would also add that I keep the mounting plate mounted to the lens
mount on the Fuji XF 100-400mm lens.
Thanks in advance for all comments.
I'm not sure whether it is a shame or a good thing that Tamron don't make Fuji X compatible lenses.
I have been doing some readings about speedlights for personal use, and I thought why not share the info and get some feedback and other useful info?
There are many ways to categorize different speedlights. Size is one way (although certainly not perfect and not the only one). First, the smallest ones.
Small speedlights are cheaper and generally have fewer functionality. Fujifilm EF-20 is probably the default choice. Fujifilm EF X20 can be used as an optical slave but lacks vertical swivel and uses AAA batteries instead of AA batteries. Bolt speedlights are cheaper and more powerful (by considerable amount for Bolt VC-310F). Metz speedlights have limited zoom.
Next, medium-sized speedlights.
IMO, these could be broken into three separate categories. Note that first two do not have HSS (high speed sync) and are in similar price range. HSS is used for shallow depth of field or to freeze action - for more detail see this and this. The next 2 (Metz M400 and Nissin i40) have a great deal more functionality (e.g. HSS and video light). Ease of upgrades by the end-user made USB a talking point, but it might not matter in the future if Fujifilm makes no more changes to their flash protocol. Finally, Godox (a.k.a. Flashpoint mini R2 for better USA-based support) is in a different category altogether. Godox is cheapest by far but also has HSS and radio trigger. So what does Godox lack? Notable deficiencies are battery power (2 AA instead of 4 AA, which can be a benefit in terms of weight), limited swivel, and longer flash duration at full power (longer flash duration means less effective in freezing action - for details with graphs see this).
Next, I'll lump the following tweeners into medium-large-sized speedlights.
This is also a hodgepodge. All are able to provide marginally more light than the medium-sized ones listed above. Yungnuo YN560-IV is the cheapest speedlight, but it is manual control only and has a pretty long flash duration at full power. Fujifilm EF-X500 is the most powerful Fujifilm branded speedlight with most functionality, but most people here consider it too expensive for what it does.
Finally, the heaviest speedlights.
Godox / Flashpoint R2 have not been released yet. Li-on batteries store more power but is more expensive. I had to guess some specs for LumoPro LP180, which I actually use. I would guess that very few people would use these on-camera. In terms of flash power, these heavy speedlights are not necessarily more powerful than many listed in the medium-large set.
Bare bulbs, ring lights, mono lights, and strobes are omitted here (at least for now) - that's whole another world. Note that I can only have up to 5 attachments so if someone wants to start a thread for these, I'm all for it.
I'd be happy to make corrections and add more info in this OP if other people provide them. In this OP, I opted not to discuss reputation, reliability, build-quality, quality of light, ease of control, ergonomics, and ecosystem or compatibility with other (lighting) accessories, all of which can be more difficult to quantify - but all of these are valid points of discussion. I'm not trying to start "my flash is better than yours" type of argument, although stopping that is beyond my power. Everyone should judge for themselves which features are important and worth paying for. Feel free to chime in with other considerations that may be important in deciding on which flashgun to purchase.
In spite of having all the latest firmware updates the bright frame in the OVF is very inaccurate for the XF 27mm lens on the X-Pro 1. You end up getting way more image on all sides than is shown in the frame. It is not just a little inaccurate it is nowhere close. Does anyone know how to get around this? I am hoping a future firmware update fixes this!
Lexar to discontinue memory cards et.all.
R.I.P. Lexar Memory Cards
So back in March I had this thing on my sensor I sent it to Fuji. Purolator lost my camera and so it was never resolved they gave me a new camera which was awesome. Then just recently on my new X-T2 which Fuji provide it to me again the sensor has a mark at the bottom of it again. Same kinda area. I'm thinking now is my lens causing this? This is the 2nd time it's happened. Very weird. I've owned the 56 and 35 from back when the X-T2 came out in Sep of 2016 and with the 56 and 35 never had any issues. No issues. It's only when I got the 14 mm that maybe it happened around that time period. Maybe. I was using the 14 mm alot lately and I always look at the senor for dust when i'm changing lens here and there. I used the 14 mm alot lately the other day and then BANG the sesor had the marks.
Here's my old post for reference. It shows the issue i had back in Mar. The two pics below are from my new camera. What is going on here. I had this similar issue twice now.
Wierd thing on sensor
I have attached my new pics. I'm really upset. Last time I contacted Fuji I had to send my camera and it took 3 weeks because Purolator lost it. I got a new camera
Any thoughts of what is causing this and what should I do I'm going to have to end up contacting Fuji but again I'm extremely upset. Its summer i can't afford to lose my camera by shipping it to fuji again.
I'm going to have to contact fuji AGAIN but not right now. I can't be the only person out there with this issue. It's like a burn mark... I will attach my new pics of the sensor. Lucklly it sits just below and from what i can tell is not affect my pictures.
Again i'm at the point where i'm thinking it's the 14mm. I'm totally guessing on this...
Still learning my x-t20 so I'm experimenting. This is a self portrait on a tripod, indoor available light, 14mm, f8, iso400, shutter A (1/3.2), manual prefocus, 10 second timer using Fuji app on iPhone. Shot Raw. Processed in camera with Arcos+R and a few other minor adjustments. Cropped in camera then further on iPhone. Plus the uncropped version for reference. All feedback appreciated.
I'm newbie in photography as I just bought fujifilm X-A10.
I need your help, when the screen is tilting 180 degrees, why my picture isn't mirroring like when I took selfie in smartphone (it's just like using normal mode, but I can see my face when it's tilting). Is there any setup that I should do before usin selfie mode?
Thank you in advance everyone.