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Is it normal for AD200 bulb to emit light indefinitely after firing?

Discussion in 'Fuji X Flash and Artificial Lighting (LED, etc.)' started by hyh, Mar 6, 2018.

  1. hyh

    hyh GoldMember

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    So I just returned a Flashpoint eVOLV 200 (== Godox AD200) for an exchange because of a myriad of problems - the biggest one being a defective lever that refuses to release the fresnel head so that I couldn't use the bare bulb.

    Anyhow, while I was testing out the unit, I noticed something else strange. After firing, the bulb in the fresnel head continued to emit low-level light continuously for quite some time - probably more than a minute. Is this normal? I did some search on the web, but I found nothing.
     
  2. Woodworth

    Woodworth Premium Member

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    The AD200 has a LED modelling light that is very easily switched on, perhaps this is the problem.

    I have been using a couple of Ad200 units professionally for a while now and have no problems to report. The Fresnel head not releasing may be a fault but more than likely it is just a matter of technique. I found mine difficult to remove initially but now they seem easy enough to change.
     
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  3. kenbennett

    kenbennett Premium Member

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    I did find the modeling light would come on and stay on when I didn't want it to.
     
  4. Mk1

    Mk1 Premium Member

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    Haven't noticed it on mine? Although the LED does come on when it’s swithced on
     
  5. hyh

    hyh GoldMember

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    RE: modelling light - yeah, maybe I accidentally pressed a wrong button while trying to set up slave group, etc. I wasn't aware of this function before, but I would have thought that the modeling light would turn on when I press the modeling light button - rather than only after firing. In any case, I'll know better when the replacement comes... most likely not until next week (Yuck!).

    As for head not releasing, youtube videos I have seen make it look easy. As for me, I pulled REALLY HARD while fiddling with the release lever and it would not budge. I suppose I could have asked someone with stronger arms than me... I don't think I should have tried twisting/turning the head for releasing it? The instruction states, "Start with a removing an attached flash head by the sliding catch lock to the left (fig B / 11) and pulling gently on the head to slip it off the mounting plate of the eVOLV200 body."

    Thanks for your help!
     
    Last edited: Mar 7, 2018
  6. hyh

    hyh GoldMember

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    Adorama provided me with a better instructions on how to remove the head. The picture is more instructive than the words provided in the manual.

    unnamed.png

    A better or more precise wording may be ...

    To release the fresnel head, pull the release lever/button and slide the head upwards.

    (instead of "Start with a removing an attached flash head by the sliding catch lock to the left (fig B / 11) and pulling gently on the head to slip it off the mounting plate of the eVOLV200 body.")

    And a video - with start timed for releasing the head. Without knowing the precise technique, it could be tricky.

     
  7. hyh

    hyh GoldMember

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    The replacement unit actually arrived by Saturday evening, and I was able to do some shooting with a partially charged battery. Everything worked fine, except the rate of misfiring by XT-1F was a bit high ... maybe a dozen misfires over around 600 shots.

    I did not know how to get to the 0-30m mode (pressing test button while turning it on), so I'll have to give that a try next time (something that has been done every time the unit is turned on as far as I know). IMHO, 0-30m mode should be the default -- I'd imagine that most people would use this mode more than longer range mode.

    FWIW, I had a Phottix Ares trigger on the hotshoe of the XT-1F, and the Ares was able to trigger my LumoPro LP180 units in this configuration even when the XT-1F was unable to trigger AD200 and/or V860II or TT350. FWIW, triggering using TT350 was much better than XT-1F in my experience (at least without going into 0-30m mode so far), so I'm hopeful that it won't be as bad next time.

    I also got into AUTO mode of my X-E2S by accident at one point -- this apparently made my lights to go into TTL mode - it was truly awful on so many levels. Overexposed as hell. Nightmarish auto focus. I came to despise that AUTO button. Manual mode is the way to go. Remote control of the light levels is very nice, however.
     

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