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Possible m43 convert

Discussion in 'Member Introductions' started by Ternai chani, Jul 16, 2017.

  1. Ternai chani

    Ternai chani New Member

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    Hi, ive been looking on and off to switching over to fuji from m43. It first started when x-t1 came out. I rented the 23mm f1.4 and the 56 f1.2. Even in performance mode and the latest firmware, the af was terrible compared to my olympus cameras. Iq was incredible though and now that the new x-t2 is out, i am looking again. Which lenses have you guys found to have slow af and which have the best af? Thanks!
     
  2. Mr Perceptive

    Mr Perceptive Premium Member

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    On an X-T2 everything is better! Don't forget there is boost mode and the battery grip to make everything even faster.

    But the oldest lenses (18, 35 f.1.4 and 60) and the 56 are fairly pedestrian

    I have no issues with the 14, 23 f1.4 and 90, the latter I have used for motorsport and initial af lock was superb

    I have also used an EM1 Mkii for a couple weeks and wouldn't have said that it was faster then the Fuji, and IMO the IQ of the Fuji was significantly better (especially over ISO 800)
     
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  3. Ternai chani

    Ternai chani New Member

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    Awesome to hear. So where can I start shopping for one? Is there a classifieds here?
     
  4. F2Bthere

    F2Bthere Premium Member

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    I switched from m4/3rds, too. The older Fuji's were much worse wrt AF than the latest cameras and many of the older cameras have improved with the latest firmware.

    The AF on Fuji tends to slide into focus and the Olympus tends to slam into focus, much as a DSLR does. When comparing speed, it's good to use an objective timing method, since the accelerate-slam-on-the-brakes feels faster. From a user experience, which you like better is personal preference. The Fuji AF tends to be a bit more accurate in my experience.

    Good specifics about lenses above. The f2 lenses tend to be faster. The fixed f2.8 zooms.
     
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  5. Solo with others

    Solo with others Well-Known Member

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    My 35 f/1.4 is slower as is the 56 f/1.2. But that is fine as they are for more deliberate shooting. The 16-55 f/2.8 is unconsciously fast. So fast I have to double check the green box to make sure it has focused and it always has. The 18-135 comes in second. Focus speed is no longer an issue with the XT-2. I leave the 16-55 on the XT-2 and that is my "get the shot" camera. XT-1 starts with the 10-24 and is used for more deliberate shooting. Rarely in my work do I have a need to go longer that what these two give me.
     
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  6. Ternai chani

    Ternai chani New Member

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    Am i missing something? Why are there no classifieds?
     
  7. Richard_R

    Richard_R Eclectic eccentric

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    There is a marketplace but like most forums I know of you need to have a history of posts before you can access it. I don't what the requirements are but I'm sure that they are published somewhere in a FAQ.
     
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  8. Max Fstop

    Max Fstop Well-Known Member

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    Welcome to the forum, enjoy :)
     
  9. damianmkv

    damianmkv Active Member

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    Am interested in your post, David. I'm at ( or getting to ) the point where I'm considering where to go with my e-m1 mk1 i.e. upgrade or change systems. There are lots of things I like about the Olympus and lots I don't - one of which is the base noise it low ISO levels such as those you mention. With my x100t, they're just so much cleaner.

    Sooo...if I bought the mk2 I'd be looking at £1849 for the body only, less any incentives that might be available, less the sale of the mk1 so call it £1350 to change just the body. If I sold my current set up to change systems, I'd get £1700 I guess

    But to buy what ? I currently have the 9-18, 12-40 f2.8 and 40-150 f2.8 + TC. I shoot at car shows, motorsport, bmx racing so would want a quick lens and something that has quick AF. I assume the xt-2 locks AF with no issues ?

    Sorry to the OP for the hijack...
     
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  10. Ternai chani

    Ternai chani New Member

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    No worries, this is all good info
     
  11. Mr Perceptive

    Mr Perceptive Premium Member

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    Damian, as you know I'm a long term X series shooter (nearly 5 years now!!) and I'm a huge fan of the X-T2 (it really is a step up from previous generation X series cameras). I also run workshops for a local camera store and because of the participants I teach I am reasonably familiar with quite a range of cameras. I was lent an EM1-Mkii for two weeks with a view to using it on a future Olympus based workshop.

    I used it exclusively for a week, and then used it alongside my X-T2 for a shoot.

    The EM1-Mkii is a great camera, don't get me wrong, its really well built, has great IBIS and some nifty features (50M mode, LE image build up and keystone correction), its also fast, really fast, with quick AF, fast burst speeds, etc. And the 12-40 is a fantastic lens, sharp and very flare resistant.

    Using the Olympus forced some brain recalibration, it is not an easy beast to get to grips with, the menus are baffling and you can assign multiple function to buttons, dials, etc. It took me a good week to feel comfortable with it. Its a very different handling experience to the Fuji's.

    But there is no getting away from the fact that it has a smaller sensor than the Fuji, and is not as good in low light (IBIS helps, but its no use if your target is moving!). It definitely produced noisier images than the Fuji, starting to be noticable at ISO800 and by ISO3200 the Fuji was a long way ahead. Initially I thought that the Shadow Recovery was far worse on the Olympus, but then I realised that the X-T2 and OM1 Mkii histograms were in different places. Generally on the Fuji you do not want to clip the highlights on the histogram (highlight recovery is poor compared to shadow), then you get great shadow recovery, whereas if you do this on the Olympus, you get less dynamic range, as the highlight recovery on the Olympus is really good (and not on the Fuji), so you can push the Olympus off the end of the histogram and still recover well. Once I had worked this out I felt that at Base ISO's the Dynamic Range of both cameras was very similar.

    The AF focus lock on the X-T2 is very fast (with the right lenses, don't try this at home with any of the oldest lenses 18, 35f1.4, 60 or the 56), and once it has lock it tracks really well. I think that Chris Harrison (ukaskew on TP) has proved its capability for motorsport (I've only done one day of motorsport, and most of that was with the XF90mm, but I still got at least one stunning image!)

    Please login to view links

    Please login to view links

    My motorsport effort (X-T2, Xf90mm):-

    Please login to view links by Please login to view links, on Flickr

    With either camera I don't think you'll be disappointed, I suspect that its a trade off between ultimate speed and image quality at the end of the day. For all uses I suspect that the Fuji would come out ahead, but for fast speed in great lighting the Olympus would nudge ahead.

    Some my Olympus Images Please login to view links

    (Annoyingly the only time I've got a shot published in the local paper was one I took with the Olympus, after years with Fuji's :D:mad::D !!!!)

    BTW Olympus are doing 1-2 day loans on the Mkii through many of their dealers, might be worth trying to borrow one and use it at an event.
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2017
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  12. damianmkv

    damianmkv Active Member

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    Thanks David, I'm thinking of doing the test and wow thing in September - all things are a compromise as you say. Maybe I'm best seeing what the mk2 can do..and whether there's a significant improvement over the mk1 or not before I make any rash decisions.
     
  13. Mr Perceptive

    Mr Perceptive Premium Member

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    Good idea!
     
  14. GregWard

    GregWard Premium Member

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    I probably suffer from G.A.S. at least as much (if not more) than most even on this forum! As a result I have - and regularly use - a wide range of sensors from 1 inch to Full Frame - and that includes both M4/3 and Fuji X. For me there is a distinct difference in quality between the 1 inch sensors and the rest. But even they have a huge advantage in terms of the kit size (especially lenses). Beyond that I would strongly agree with @Mr Perceptive and would suggest it's all about the exact advantages that each Photographer is looking to gain?

    I would stress two things though:

    1. All of these cameras are very very good. Sure there's a high ISO benefit for Fuji - but then Full Frame is even better. Conversely Fuji offers smaller/lighter lenses (like for like) than FF - but then the M4/3 lenses are even smaller and lighter. So there are trade-offs to be made. Personally I think a new Photographer benefits enormously from Fuji X - as a nice compromise in between FF and M4/3. Maybe others though would be better suited to two systems (M4/3 and FF) for different situations. Or that might be my G.A.S. talking!

    2. But when CHANGING systems I think you need to be very wary. Are there specific circumstances (that you come across regularly) where the Fuji would genuinely have taken better images? I don't wish to sound mean but faults often lie 4 to 6 inches behind the camera rather than the camera itself. Fuji X cameras are good - but they won't make anyone a better Photographer. I'm not saying there aren't good reasons to move to Fuji X - just suggesting a few moments to properly analyse motivations?
     
  15. damianmkv

    damianmkv Active Member

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    You're 100% correct

    Years ago I spent a few hundred £ upgrading my Nikon d3100 to a d7000.

    There was zero difference in IQ - what a disappointment. All I got was better access to menus.

    That's why I'm hesitant to change body let alone system
     
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  16. aKilter

    aKilter Well-Known Member

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    Fuji Rumors has indicated a forthcoming X-T2s will have IBIS. Might be a big deal for those of you considering switching from m43.
     
  17. Mr Perceptive

    Mr Perceptive Premium Member

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    And Fuji Management stated about a year ago that there was no way that they could fit IBIS into the existing body without a significant mechanical redesign, and that the required Image Circle increase would necessitate a mount change.

    Fuji should stick to doing what they are doing (especially with respect to firmware updates) and not follow the herd.
     
  18. damianmkv

    damianmkv Active Member

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    IBIS is all well and good but after the initial " I'll give this 5s handheld thing a crack" wears off, you'll inevitably end up using a tripod or raising the ISO.

    If your high(er) ISO capabilities are good enough then......
     
  19. Mr Perceptive

    Mr Perceptive Premium Member

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    What was more impressive with IBIS was the 50M mode on the Mkii, shifting the sensor several times and taking images and then combining them into one huge raw file gives impressive levels of detail (a 10.3K x 7.7K resultant image), but the camera needs to be rock solid, half a pixel movement (1.5 microns) and your image is wrecked!
     

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