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Tempted by Godox. Talk me out of this!

Discussion in 'Fuji X Flash and Artificial Lighting (LED, etc.)' started by Sarge, Jul 15, 2017.

  1. Sarge

    Sarge Active Member

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    My current strobe system consists of 3 Lumopro LP180's and a Cheap Neewer speedlight I use for sketchy areas that may cause damage to the light. I use Phottix triggers and those little dice sized triggers (can't remember what they are called?).
    Anyway with all the news about Godox getting Fuji TTL strobes released I am very tempted to sell the Lumopro's and Phottix triggers to fund a Godox system.
    The Lumopro strobes are the best built strobes I have ever had. They always work. They mount sideways which is awesome for umbrella work. Just no TTL option.
    I know I will get one of the TT 350F strobes for on camera flash. I could/should leave it at that, but......
     
  2. hectorlektor

    hectorlektor Well-Known Member

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    To be honest, I can't talk you out of it, Godox offer too much. For me TTL isn't interesting but HSS.
    Go for it!
     
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  3. Mischa

    Mischa Vintage lover

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    No need for TTL... ever.. I use 6 Yongnuo YN560 (mk III and IV's) with a YN560-TX trigger that can adjust power and zoom of all 6 flashes individually.. and all this for under 400 USD.. what could I want more?!
     
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  4. F2Bthere

    F2Bthere Premium Member

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    I'm a big advocate of holding off on changes until I have a specific need I can't meet or I need a more efficient workflow.

    I'm not sure what you think Godox as a system will do for you that your current system won't. Only you can decide which of the features matter to you and how much. And how will the Godox system be a disadvantage compared to the gear you already have?

    Don't get me wrong. It might be the right move for you, but switching systems when your current system is working well should always be approached with caution.

    I have a few systems which I use and occasionally combine. One is the manual Godox system (non-TTL). One is an ancient Bowen's (Travellite) monolight system which is still reliable. One is Elinchrom. I use Elinchrom and Bowen's modifiers with the Godox by means of adapters. I have a Bowen's to Elinchrom adapting capability, too.

    If I am going to a location where I have plug in power and I want to set up a few shooting areas, the Bowen's works well--plenty of power, very quick recycle, strong modeling light. I can supplement it with other units as it makes sense.

    If maximum portability and independence of power or desire for no cords are high, Godox. If the need for serious power is important (such as competing with sunlight), Elinchrom. And, often, I combine the two.

    It would be a bit less hassle to replace the Bowen's system with Elinchrom monolights or a pack system, but it would buy me little and cost a good bit.

    My advice, add a piece at a time, use the hybrid system and learn its strengths and weaknesses for your working methods and then decide if the new system is a better solution.

    I would wait till the new Godox capability is rolled out and we can see how well it works and what issues arise before investing. For my needs, I will wait to see how Godox and Elinchrom support for Fuji evolves and will make changes only if I need a capability or greater convenience :)
     
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  5. Sarge

    Sarge Active Member

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    The HSS is the main reason I would want the Godox. TTL I can honestly take or leave.
    I know I would use the HSS on location when doing portraits. Only one light though. Perhaps the transmitter with the AD200. Or if I get the TT 350F it will work as a master.
    For studio and slower work the system I use now is good. I just don't have the ability to change settings at the camera. If something needs changed I have to go to the strobe and change it. Kind of a pain.
     
  6. mikegee

    mikegee Premium Member

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    Sell it all and Jump in with both feet. You won't regret it!
     
  7. inkista

    inkista Active Member

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    QFlash? :)

    I think that's your answer. Godox, as feature-rich as the system is, doesn't "always work." Speedlight-wise, they're kinda like Yongnuo. Cheap and cheerful, but if you need to pound on your gear in very heavy fashion all the time, then the LumoPros are probably still your best bet. Some of Neewer's speedlights are rebranded Godox flashes.

    Maybe just grab a TT600 or TT685 to start with and see how the system works for you. It may not be what you're visualizing. The only reason to go with Godox for you at this point I think would be whether or not you want something bigger than speedlights but smaller than studio strobes. If you want to play with an AD200, then it's probably time to seriously consider Godox.

    But I've already seen one report of a failed AD200, so again, decide how much you have to have rock-solid reliability.
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2017
  8. hyh

    hyh GoldMember

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    If you know how to use manual flash comfortably, there is ABSOLUTELY no reason to switch. I have two LP180. I just bought TT-350F - it's okay (barely!) but it felt like a step down after having used the LP180s.

    Inkista's view above hews very close how I think of the situation for myself - I might eventually get a bigger light like AD360/AD200/AD600 from Godox (but I have no desire to play around with TT600 or TT685 - I've seen enough with TT-350F).

    You might want to check a recent video from Zack Arias about what's in his light bag. He switched from LumoPro to all-Phottix system, but he still has a sweet memory of LumoPros (quite possibly because he didn't feel that "upgrading" to more expensive Phottix Mitros at same power level was not much of an upgrade - I could be wrong).
     
  9. jknights

    jknights Moderator Staff Member

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    I agree, I wouldnt want to talk you out of having the best flash setup for Fuji. You deserve it! Buy it.
     
  10. Solsdad

    Solsdad New Member

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    I have been shooting my interior design related photos (finish carpentry) with 3 YN-560IV with its transmitter. I have been taking portraits of my favorite subject, my daughter, with one of YN-560 IV on camera bouncing with reflect card out but it was kind of heavy on camera. Also always wanted HSS. I got Mini R2 (TT350F) and couldn't be happier. What a joy to not be limited by anything! It feels so light on camera. I had to order eVolve 200 R2 (AD200) for HSS in daylight for Mini R2 is so weak in HSS. I thought YN-560s would be all I needed and they were, until Godox introduced its system which can do everything and it just makes so much sense. What a strobe system is supposed to do. My previous setup will still serve me for interior shots but Mini R2 and eVolve 200 R2 are it for my portraits.
     
  11. Nate Naismith

    Nate Naismith New Member

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    I too am tempted by the current deals on Flashpoint at Adorama. I'm currently shooting a Nissen i40 with my X-T2 w/battery grip, but I'm plagued by into recycle time issues when shooting rapidly at events. Considering the Flashpoint Zoom Li-on R2 TTL On-Camera Flash Speedlight For Fuji (V860FII) because of the Lithium ion battery. Any experience or suggestions? I know this is a heavy rig, but that rapid recycle intrigues me. I use Lumopro 180's for my studio work and am very happy with those, just need a more robust TTL solution for event work.
     
  12. Mischa

    Mischa Vintage lover

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    Do I get this right:
    You want High-Speed-Sync for outdoor portraits, so you can use strobes and the lens wide open, in broad daylight?
    We really suck at daylight here in Helvetia, because I very often need to increase iso so I don't shake my portraits. (I never shoot during noon and if I do, I prefer shady areas..)

    Now, if you live in an area where you're blessed with "too" much light, why not use an ND filter?
    After all, HSS usually means a significant drop in output brightness, so an ND would save you the hassle to get an HSS system and be able to still work with all your manual flashes.

    Additionally, why would anyone want to use TTL flashes off-camera? After all, if they're just a little closer to your subject, they will be too bright.. ?
     
  13. Sarge

    Sarge Active Member

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    There are times when a client's schedule dictates the light we deal with. It is those times and a few others where HSS is needed. I do have ND filters I use now HSS just offers more convenience.
     
  14. Solo with others

    Solo with others Well-Known Member

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    I will share one of my dirty little secrets....

    I will often pull out my X100T to take portraits in bright sunlight. It has a built in ND filter and will sync via cord with any manual flash up to 1/4000 due to the leaf shutter. This photo was shot that way with a cheap Neewer speedlight via cord on an "L" handle (old school).

    I would save up for a X100F before changing flash systems. ;-)

    UPDATE: Out of curiosity, I just tested this with my Yongnuo 560 wireless system and I was able to sync up to 1/4000 over wireless.

    IMG_20161228_205809_373.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2017
  15. Solo with others

    Solo with others Well-Known Member

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    I use an i60 with an external power pack. Another alternative that might be lighter on the hands.
     
  16. Sarge

    Sarge Active Member

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    The X100F is on my short list for those very same reasons. Plus a few others.
     
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  17. Solsdad

    Solsdad New Member

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    Yes even the shaded area in Southern California you probably need at least 6 stop nd filter if you want to shoot wide open. My 2 1/2 girl is free to run in and out of building that I am chasing and there are moments I want to capture that could happen at noon or 3 pm by swimming pool etc. you just never know when the moment comes. To me HSS make much more sense than ND filter.
     
  18. Mischa

    Mischa Vintage lover

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    I never shoot with direct sunlight in the face, but I just spent 3 hours on a shoot and mostly shot my lenses at f/1.4 or f/1.2. Sometimes I stopped down to f/2 and with the Leica (90mm f/2) I even used f/2.8 for some shots.
    Open shade, at 3pm, I had to shoot at iso 200 to keep my shutter speed around 1/200s with the Leica.

    iso200, f/2.8, 1/200s
    _C5T7943.jpg

    But yeah, I guess we simply have stupid light here..


    ps: I noticed the blown out areas in the background, where sunlight flooded the street. I've also had my fair share of ugly portraits in open sunlight with nasty shadows everywhere.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2017

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